Totally agree. She did a fantastic job! She definitely knows what she's doing. Having said that, when she said "you don't want your balls in there", I couldn't help but imagine the response that comment would receive from our maintenance....
Dan and Rachel are the only ones I would trust for the instructions and information I need to work on my Ford 801 Powermaster. Watch any of their videos and you won’t be disappointed.
Love the old iron. Sure, they're not as powerful, fitted with all the creature comforts and accompanying bells and whistles, but they are largely home shop repairable. There's a whole lot to be said for that. Great tutorial, as always.
I'd given up on my 4000 gas because I lost some parts a year ago which I found today. now I see not only how I took it apart but that you sell new gaskets, etc. Much appreciation!
As always, a well worth it video. I particularly appreciate your taking the time to point out what would be obvious to a skilled mechanic....but not so obvious to the weekend farmer with a bunch of old tractors.
Rachel you are so pleasant to listen to. I just took the front off the pump on a 861 and the torrington bearing had no needles in it. No wonder the shaft and seal were no good huh.
Thank Rachel, enjoyed watching. A little hint on fitting bearings. Freeze the part your bearing is going onto, if possible, you will find the bearing going on with less pressure, due to the contraction of the metal. The thought is you do not stress the bearing too much.
Got it backwards....unless you are pressing an external bearing on a shaft. For internal bearing setting, freeze the bearing to shrink it a little, heat the part it goes into (if possible) to expand it a bit. Less effort for a press fit.
Very often rain water gets into hydraulic pump from gear shift lever boot ..then it freezes up solid and breaks pump when started. Always seal up boots check sump for water milky oil etc. Excellent show!
That’s very good advice! I have a Ford 600 and the shifter boot was cracked and not sealing well. I ended up with water in my hydraulic /transmission fluid and a big mess!
Great videos with a lot of small tips and tricks. I especially like that even though these are promotion videos, the sale is toned down to a minimum - keep up the good work. Another trick when installing races, bearing and other stuff alike. Use the power of temperature contraction / expansion. Putting the inner part in the freezer for only a few hours makes a major difference. To avoid dry run conditions when starting, I would use either oil or light grease film on all internal parts. /Henrik
This is the best instructional video I have ever found on u-tube with one exception. Rachel did not show the part where she removed the needle bearing race. That is where I am stuck?
Attempted a split to bleed on a brand new pump with a stripped($#&#%) bleeder plug. Second attempt damaged seal. No go no Bueno. Drilled out plug today new plug putting back together. You are a great resource thank you
If you notice the seal has a small spring on each lip, it applies pressure for the rubber to make proper contact with the shaft to seal the oil out. That small spring can pop out (it happened to me) when you hammer the seal into the housing and you may not see it until it leaks after assembly. My trick is to apply grease to that little spring before assembly, that way the grease will hold the small spring in place when you tap it in. The little about of grease needed will not affect or contaminate the hydraulic oil.
Use trans gel, it's designed for transmission and hydraulic fluid. no worries about contamination and you can use it for all of the reassemblies in the transmission and hydraulic system.
Super instructional vids... I've never rebuilt an engine, but after watching your vids, I would give it a go; however, when the head is removed, how do I know which is the intake or the exhaust valves? Thank you!!!!
Your videos are really helpful. Being a new owner of a Ford 650 Tractor how this tractor operates to me is all new but being an aircraft technician its easy to understand. Everything on the tractor worked fine since purchasing it a year ago this coming March. Mid December I attached my 6 foot blade in hopes of using the tractor to clear the snow from my driveway. After mounting the blade I moved the lever for the 3 point hitch and it raised briefly then dropped to the ground and would not raise back up. I checked the oil and found it at the bottom of the hash mark. I thought for sure after adding hydraulic oil you recommend for this tractor the 3 point did the same thing started to raise went up about a foot then lowered back down and will not raise at all. At this point not knowing what the previous owner did I might just drain all the fluid and start again.
There are seal applicator tools on the market, and they are expensive. I went to a machine shop trade school and brought them plans to make me a set of seal applicators with the driving handle. The teacher was happy to have the students make this tool because it was and exercises that was useful and not something that would go into the garbage after done.I only payed for the material to make the tool set.
To instal a race bearing with a steel tool, you can damage the bearing race because it is soo tempered, i use a brass punch that i got from a machine shop that sold me a length of brass rod .
When I worked in a hydraulic shop, I had our machines make me numerous tools for installing various bearings and bushings Wish I had kept them when I left the company.
I apologize about the spline shift insertio. Tool in the case of this pump, it would not work on this application. Great tutorial, young lady, from a 78yr old mechanic, pump man..
Hi Rachel and Dan - we always love your videos! Our question is somewhat related to this topic. Our proof meter on our new to us 641 wasn't working, and I found that the tab end of the cable was broken. I purchased a replacement cable and inserted it. The slotted end of the hydraulic pump (where the cable inserts) does spin when the engine runs. But it slides about 1/2 inch in and out during spinning. The new proofmeter cable does make the proofmeter show some RPM, but it is not accurate. I'm wondering if that proofmeter adapter or bolt inside the pump could be an issue. Is that adapter supposed to move (have some slack front to back) or be solid with no movement other than rotation? Thanks for the help! Chad at Purple Collar Life.
Place your cone bearing on a steel plate, and gently heat the inside race by directing your pap Gass torch onto the center on the plate when spitting on your finger it should sizzle like a griddle. The bearing will drop onto the shift. To insert the shift into the pressure seal get or make a sleve cover that is over the spline shift. Lightly oil and safely slide the shift through the seal without damage to the seal.
Can we please get you a set of seal and bearing drivers? I still use the sockets on the odd occasion when I can't get my driver into the location but I used to damage seals and bearing so often using sockets and other odd items to drive them in. Just FYI: the plate the pistons ride on is normally called a swashplate. it is the same as you find in A/C compressors build in the same manner.
question regarding the hydraulic pump.....will the pump make a knocking noise similar to a rod knocking if its bad? My 800 has what sounds like a rod knocking. I have had pan off everything looks good there as well as checked push rods.
I have a question for you I have a 600 the lift goes up great but it only works with the leaver all the way up the lever doesn't work anywhere other than all the way up and it slowly drops what might be causing this thanks
I have followed your videos on overhauling the top plate, and the hydraulic pump utilizing kits from your site. I’ve also replaced the pressure hydraulic tube which runs thru the cases because it had a large hole due to corrosion. With all that done how long will it take for the hydraulic system to react I’ve primed the pump and I’m getting no action.
SO, I have a 1963 Ford 4000 Select-O-Speed with piston hydraulic pump, but my lift arms have quit lifting. I rebuilt the pump and lift deck and it worked several times but has set a while, but now it is down and won't lift at all. I find EVERYTHING on YT for EVERY other model, but little to nothing of this model, even though much of it is the same as other NAAs. I find NOTHING on HOW TO PRIME THE HYDRAULIC PUMP. I have every shop manual Ford ever made for this model. I guess they "forgot" to include priming the pump. even though there is a section discussing "lost prime", but nothing on HOW TO PRIME. I guess if it is not a Jubilee, 2N, 8N or 9N, it ain't a Ford. Any input out there? THabnks in advance.
These videos are great and for that reason I ended up purchasing the premium rebuild kit shown in the video. There picture on the website and the video dont match up, so I called and asked if these parts were included that were missing in the picture on the website, I was told yes. Missing the small O rings, no wobble plate thrust bearing, no nut and bolt to knock out the bearing race. I've reached out to them to ask about the parts with no answer yet. When I talked to them over the phone before it always felt like I was being rushed. Im restoring an entire tractor ground up and as a small business owner myself I wanted to help out a fellow business owner. So far very disappointed and will spend the rest of my restoration money at Steiner tractor parts. I will update if things change.
Hi Landan, It looks like you emailed us with a question a few days ago. The question came in at 3:51 PM and we had emailed you back at 4:03 PM (12 minutes for an email reply seems like a very good response rate). After you placed the order, we were short only one item (the wobble plate) to complete the kit as shown on our website, so we called you to confirm the contents of the kit. You were offered a refund and accepted that resolution for the single shortage. Unfortunately when a kit involves so many pieces we can be short--I feel the very best way to respond to a shortage is a personal phone call which we did for you before filling the order. If you have additional questions, please reach out to our customer service reps either by email or phone.
When you called about being short the wobble plate is when I asked about the missing items on the picture on the website vs the youtube video, that's when I was told they were included. Yes you did refund for the wobble plate but still no wobble plate roller bearing or small o rigs included. I did place a call and left a voicemail about the missing parts. But you responded to the youtube comment faster than calling me back. No worries I've already purchased the missing parts from steiner tractor parts. Just letting others know before they think about purchasing this kit.
Hey I was wondering if you could help me narrow down a problem, I have a ford 9n that at full throttle breaks up and I checked the firing order which was good, plug connections lose so I tightened them back up, getting plenty of fuel nice steady stream into and out of carb (pulled carb drain plug), everything ran fine until I pulled a inline fuel filter off that the previous owner had on and the tractor would starve for fuel after a while of runnning at full throttle in the field, and no matter how much adjusting I did on the carb the breaking up at full throttle would not go away but the tractor isles fine and revs up fine until it hits full throttle, any input would be greatly appreciated
Remove the extra in-line fuel filter. Or if you need a FF because of a dirty fuel tank put on a much bigger capacity FF. Or, if your tank has rust and dirt, remove it and clean it well, the coat the inside w that red sealant stuff, I forget the name. I did mine this way 9 yrs ago at same time as soldering closed some pinhole leaks. It's been fine since. Or you could buy a clean fuel tank, new or used.
Hello Dan and Rachel, have a Ford 4000, mid 60s. Recently replace a gasket that was leaking on the hydraulic pump. Simple. But, when I reinstalled the pump it will not pump oil. I don’t believe it is suctioning oil from the reserve. The shop manual states to just remove the bleed screw and crank the engine until it pumps oil out the hole. But no oil is flowing. Then it states to prime the system yet gives no instructions as to how. I’m befuddled. Any ideas how to prime the pump?
One thing I need to add is, that the parts, such as this pump, should be cleaned up before being dissembled. This is to keep the dirt and grime out of in this case the pump. Otherwise a great video, I’ve learned from watching this.
I always use a light coating of anaerobic sealant, loctite 515 for example, which is a flange sealant, takes up a good tolerance, say if you have a little pitting in part of a flange surface, you don’t have to go sanding and worry about losing tolerances. I only reply just cause I’m a JD mech, but work on pretty much anything.
My God, I'm pretty sure I could rebuild a Lear jet engine if I had Rachel to lead me through the steps. Such an excellent presenter and mechanic.
Funny what gets you to pay attention...
Have to agree the way she talks makes it sound like making coffee
Totally agree. She did a fantastic job! She definitely knows what she's doing. Having said that, when she said "you don't want your balls in there", I couldn't help but imagine the response that comment would receive from our maintenance....
Totally agree. She's a great teacher.
The best mechanic I've ever seen in these old tractors
Dan and Rachel are the only ones I would trust for the instructions and information I need to work on my Ford 801 Powermaster. Watch any of their videos and you won’t be disappointed.
Clear, to the point, and no extraneous blather. I learned a lot.
Love the old iron. Sure, they're not as powerful, fitted with all the creature comforts and accompanying bells and whistles, but they are largely home shop repairable. There's a whole lot to be said for that. Great tutorial, as always.
I'd given up on my 4000 gas because I lost some parts a year ago which I found today. now I see not only how I took it apart but that you sell new gaskets, etc. Much appreciation!
Excellent presentation. I’m almost 70 and it’s a joy for me to see you enjoying your work and business. Ps. You’re darn good !
Worked in a hyd repair shop. Never serviced a Ford tractor pump. Great job, and great training program.
As always, a well worth it video. I particularly appreciate your taking the time to point out what would be obvious to a skilled mechanic....but not so obvious to the weekend farmer with a bunch of old tractors.
You always put a smile on my face with yours, Rachel. Add I do appreciate a girl that isn't scared off by mechanical issues ;)
Very informative help me fix my dad's tractor
I love watching all of her and her father's videos I just wish they did other Ford tractors like the 1920 in the 2120
Rachel you are so pleasant to listen to. I just took the front off the pump on a 861 and the torrington bearing had no needles in it. No wonder the shaft and seal were no good huh.
First time I seen her ware gloves
Smart mechanic
I am a serious wrench-geek. Love your vids!... keep them coming!
Interesting use of the bolt and nut to remove the race. I'll have to keep that in mind.
Great video. I have an 801 and Jubilee. 801 is just starting to get a sketchy with hydraulic. Thank you
I watched and followed your video to replace rotor, condenser, and points on m 1952 Ford 8N and tractor starts as before- thank u
Thank Rachel, enjoyed watching. A little hint on fitting bearings. Freeze the part your bearing is going onto, if possible, you will find the bearing going on with less pressure, due to the contraction of the metal. The thought is you do not stress the bearing too much.
Got it backwards....unless you are pressing an external bearing on a shaft. For internal bearing setting, freeze the bearing to shrink it a little, heat the part it goes into (if possible) to expand it a bit. Less effort for a press fit.
@@dan-o9746 Sorry got it wrong way round. Internal bearings freeze, external bearings warm up a little and freeze the stud axel.
Love these videos. Rachel is the best at the this. I'm doing a top lid refresh this weekend and have ordered the parts from you.
Very often rain water gets into hydraulic pump from gear shift lever boot ..then it freezes up solid and breaks pump when started.
Always seal up boots check sump for water milky oil etc.
Excellent show!
That’s very good advice! I have a Ford 600 and the shifter boot was cracked and not sealing well. I ended up with water in my hydraulic /transmission fluid and a big mess!
@@timcoe457 many other machines have the same issues .
Good you found it.
Shalom
Great videos with a lot of small tips and tricks.
I especially like that even though these are promotion videos, the sale is toned down to a minimum - keep up the good work.
Another trick when installing races, bearing and other stuff alike. Use the power of temperature contraction / expansion. Putting the inner part in the freezer for only a few hours makes a major difference. To avoid dry run conditions when starting, I would use either oil or light grease film on all internal parts.
/Henrik
You must be such a joy to your father. I would love it if my daughter worked with me like you do your dad.
How about a video on F901 steering cly complete rebuild and kit #s
Hard to fine now even with ford parts numbers
Lady i will try to do business with you you do a great job explaining this.
This is the best instructional video I have ever found on u-tube with one exception. Rachel did not show the part where she removed the needle bearing race. That is where I am stuck?
Your a very good Mechanic , makes me want to restore a tractor.
For the easy lessons u provide,I'll b sure to order my parts from u, thanks
your videos are good keep it up Rachel
Hi Rachel.
Great video, as always.
I look forward to the next one.
Attempted a split to bleed on a brand new pump with a stripped($#&#%) bleeder plug. Second attempt damaged seal. No go no Bueno. Drilled out plug today new plug putting back together. You are a great resource thank you
She is a very special person!
Great rebuild, Mrs. Gingell☆☆☆
Great presentation! Especially like the troubleshooting part.
If you notice the seal has a small spring on each lip, it applies pressure for the rubber to make proper contact with the shaft to seal the oil out. That small spring can pop out (it happened to me) when you hammer the seal into the housing and you may not see it until it leaks after assembly.
My trick is to apply grease to that little spring before assembly, that way the grease will hold the small spring in place when you tap it in.
The little about of grease needed will not affect or contaminate the hydraulic oil.
Use trans gel, it's designed for transmission and hydraulic fluid. no worries about contamination and you can use it for all of the reassemblies in the transmission and hydraulic system.
Rachael your amazing. Thanks for the tips. I was lost but now I see. How do you stay so clean. Ha
You're the best .. Love you vids! Really step by step nothing better to learn! Thumbs up for y'all!
You know I v watching you for years
Since I have information how to buy from you I will switch from S
Super instructional vids... I've never rebuilt an engine, but after watching your vids, I would give it a go; however, when the head is removed, how do I know which is the intake or the exhaust valves? Thank you!!!!
Your videos are really helpful. Being a new owner of a Ford 650 Tractor how this tractor operates to me is all new but being an aircraft technician its easy to understand. Everything on the tractor worked fine since purchasing it a year ago this coming March. Mid December I attached my 6 foot blade in hopes of using the tractor to clear the snow from my driveway. After mounting the blade I moved the lever for the 3 point hitch and it raised briefly then dropped to the ground and would not raise back up. I checked the oil and found it at the bottom of the hash mark. I thought for sure after adding hydraulic oil you recommend for this tractor the 3 point did the same thing started to raise went up about a foot then lowered back down and will not raise at all. At this point not knowing what the previous owner did I might just drain all the fluid and start again.
I grew up on a Ford 800 just like that. Good job!
There are seal applicator tools on the market, and they are expensive.
I went to a machine shop trade school and brought them plans to make me a set of seal applicators with the driving handle. The teacher was happy to have the students make this tool because it was and exercises that was useful and not something that would go into the garbage after done.I only payed for the material to make the tool set.
good advice, thx
Very interesting. I will be trying my ability to do this job very soon
.
Great video.
Wonderful video.
you do a good job
I have a back up I need to rebuild
Lazy I got parts and ford seat tools
I need to get it done because I’m 71 and grand sons don’t know how
To instal a race bearing with a steel tool, you can damage the bearing race because it is soo tempered, i use a brass punch that i got from a machine shop that sold me a length of brass rod .
Do you’ll have parts book ???
Or on phone just tell what I need
I still farm with my F 901 and F951 propane
Excellent Video !
Great video!! Would love to see the same video for the power steering pump on these years.
Thanks for your service.Great vedio.
When I worked in a hydraulic shop, I had our machines make me numerous tools for installing various bearings and bushings
Wish I had kept them when I left the company.
Rachel uses gloves just like i do.
For a while, then they're gone.
Good job!
26:15 that phillips screw fell out of mine and that plate is so stuck i may have to tap a threads in it and use a bolt to get it out or something.
nicely done. I'm surprised that the 2 halves of the pump only have an o ring between them.
Love you and your company works
Invaluable information here. Thank you.
Dan Gingell and Rachel Gingell What if you're valve plate does not pop up (26:08) and is in fact seized in the pump cover?
I wish you would do a pto clutch and hydraulic pump rebuilding on a 175 MF
I apologize about the spline shift insertio. Tool in the case of this pump, it would not work on this application. Great tutorial, young lady, from a 78yr old mechanic, pump man..
Great easy to follow video.
good explaintion how can i talk to someone to get my pump repaired. it does not prime
Madam ji gave very good information thank you very much👌👌👍🇮🇳🚜🚜😁😁
Hi Rachel and Dan - we always love your videos!
Our question is somewhat related to this topic. Our proof meter on our new to us 641 wasn't working, and I found that the tab end of the cable was broken. I purchased a replacement cable and inserted it. The slotted end of the hydraulic pump (where the cable inserts) does spin when the engine runs. But it slides about 1/2 inch in and out during spinning. The new proofmeter cable does make the proofmeter show some RPM, but it is not accurate. I'm wondering if that proofmeter adapter or bolt inside the pump could be an issue. Is that adapter supposed to move (have some slack front to back) or be solid with no movement other than rotation? Thanks for the help! Chad at Purple Collar Life.
Good job dear
I have a big compressor, what should I set the regulator to so I don't over-pressurize the system when doing the dipstick hole priming method?
Very good !👍
Place your cone bearing on a steel plate, and gently heat the inside race by directing your pap Gass torch onto the center on the plate when spitting on your finger it should sizzle like a griddle. The bearing will drop onto the shift. To insert the shift into the pressure seal get or make a sleve cover that is over the spline shift. Lightly oil and safely slide the shift through the seal without damage to the seal.
THANK YOU! Great job instructing!
Any idea where to source a wobble shaft For the sealed bearing style pump?
thanks for sharing, be safe, God Bless
Very good job 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you so much so informative. Love your videos!!!
Do you have a 1 800 number for addiction to your videos. I can’t stop watching.
Thank you !
Ok, since we're all dying form the virus, I might as well just say it... You are the perfect
Woman
What kind of pump is on the 2000 super dexta? I have had a hard time finding information about this tractor.
Can we please get you a set of seal and bearing drivers? I still use the sockets on the odd occasion when I can't get my driver into the location but I used to damage seals and bearing so often using sockets and other odd items to drive them in.
Just FYI: the plate the pistons ride on is normally called a swashplate. it is the same as you find in A/C compressors build in the same manner.
question regarding the hydraulic pump.....will the pump make a knocking noise similar to a rod knocking if its bad? My 800 has what sounds like a rod knocking. I have had pan off everything looks good there as well as checked push rods.
This all looks very similar to my 1964 Ford 2000 offset 4 cyl gasoline machine. Would it be the same?
I have a question for you I have a 600 the lift goes up great but it only works with the leaver all the way up the lever doesn't work anywhere other than all the way up and it slowly drops what might be causing this thanks
Could you do a video on replace crank seals on a massey Ferguson 135 with the 3 cylinder perkins 152
Have you some video of transmisión rebuild on a ford 841?
Your videos are excelent, I have maybe the Last ford 841D here in my town and is very dificult find pieces and mechanic for it !thank you so much!
Will this work for ford3000 as well?
Rachel... how much air pressure are you using to prime the pump?
I have followed your videos on overhauling the top plate, and the hydraulic pump utilizing kits from your site. I’ve also replaced the pressure hydraulic tube which runs thru the cases because it had a large hole due to corrosion. With all that done how long will it take for the hydraulic system to react I’ve primed the pump and I’m getting no action.
SO, I have a 1963 Ford 4000 Select-O-Speed with piston hydraulic pump, but my lift arms have quit lifting. I rebuilt the pump and lift deck and it worked several times but has set a while, but now it is down and won't lift at all. I find EVERYTHING on YT for EVERY other model, but little to nothing of this model, even though much of it is the same as other NAAs. I find NOTHING on HOW TO PRIME THE HYDRAULIC PUMP. I have every shop manual Ford ever made for this model. I guess they "forgot" to include priming the pump. even though there is a section discussing "lost prime", but nothing on HOW TO PRIME. I guess if it is not a Jubilee, 2N, 8N or 9N, it ain't a Ford. Any input out there? THabnks in advance.
I mean if your lift arms don’t work couldn’t you just flip on the pto to check if the pump works? I thought the 800 series had a hydrostatic pto
These videos are great and for that reason I ended up purchasing the premium rebuild kit shown in the video. There picture on the website and the video dont match up, so I called and asked if these parts were included that were missing in the picture on the website, I was told yes. Missing the small O rings, no wobble plate thrust bearing, no nut and bolt to knock out the bearing race. I've reached out to them to ask about the parts with no answer yet. When I talked to them over the phone before it always felt like I was being rushed. Im restoring an entire tractor ground up and as a small business owner myself I wanted to help out a fellow business owner. So far very disappointed and will spend the rest of my restoration money at Steiner tractor parts. I will update if things change.
Hi Landan, It looks like you emailed us with a question a few days ago. The question came in at 3:51 PM and we had emailed you back at 4:03 PM (12 minutes for an email reply seems like a very good response rate). After you placed the order, we were short only one item (the wobble plate) to complete the kit as shown on our website, so we called you to confirm the contents of the kit. You were offered a refund and accepted that resolution for the single shortage. Unfortunately when a kit involves so many pieces we can be short--I feel the very best way to respond to a shortage is a personal phone call which we did for you before filling the order. If you have additional questions, please reach out to our customer service reps either by email or phone.
When you called about being short the wobble plate is when I asked about the missing items on the picture on the website vs the youtube video, that's when I was told they were included. Yes you did refund for the wobble plate but still no wobble plate roller bearing or small o rigs included. I did place a call and left a voicemail about the missing parts. But you responded to the youtube comment faster than calling me back. No worries I've already purchased the missing parts from steiner tractor parts. Just letting others know before they think about purchasing this kit.
Hey I was wondering if you could help me narrow down a problem, I have a ford 9n that at full throttle breaks up and I checked the firing order which was good, plug connections lose so I tightened them back up, getting plenty of fuel nice steady stream into and out of carb (pulled carb drain plug), everything ran fine until I pulled a inline fuel filter off that the previous owner had on and the tractor would starve for fuel after a while of runnning at full throttle in the field, and no matter how much adjusting I did on the carb the breaking up at full throttle would not go away but the tractor isles fine and revs up fine until it hits full throttle, any input would be greatly appreciated
Remove the extra in-line fuel filter. Or if you need a FF because of a dirty fuel tank put on a much bigger capacity FF. Or, if your tank has rust and dirt, remove it and clean it well, the coat the inside w that red sealant stuff, I forget the name. I did mine this way 9 yrs ago at same time as soldering closed some pinhole leaks. It's been fine since. Or you could buy a clean fuel tank, new or used.
Hello Dan and Rachel, have a Ford 4000, mid 60s. Recently replace a gasket that was leaking on the hydraulic pump. Simple. But, when I reinstalled the pump it will not pump oil. I don’t believe it is suctioning oil from the reserve. The shop manual states to just remove the bleed screw and crank the engine until it pumps oil out the hole. But no oil is flowing. Then it states to prime the system yet gives no instructions as to how. I’m befuddled. Any ideas how to prime the pump?
What if the plate is stuck, how do you get it out?
How replace rear oilseal ford 3000 1965
One thing I need to add is, that the parts, such as this pump, should be cleaned up before being dissembled. This is to keep the dirt and grime out of in this case the pump. Otherwise a great video, I’ve learned from watching this.
but what du we europea'ans do whit ex. volvo and other machins....
I have a 1947 Farmall H it has narrow front end would like to put a wide front end on it can I do that what will match will match up
Racheeeeeeel! Thanks again :) Rachel wil you ever do a Q&A ? (yes about you not about tractors haha)
My 801 will not draw fluid to the pump. I can hear the plungers working. Any suggestions
Great video! Do you recommend using any gasket compound or adhesive on the front of the pump? Thanks a bunch.
I always use a light coating of anaerobic sealant, loctite 515 for example, which is a flange sealant, takes up a good tolerance, say if you have a little pitting in part of a flange surface, you don’t have to go sanding and worry about losing tolerances. I only reply just cause I’m a JD mech, but work on pretty much anything.