Ford Tractor Hydraulic Pump Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2022
- Rebuilding a piston style hydraulic pump on a 1964 4000 Ford Tractor Pump is the same as any piston pump from 1955-1964 600/601, 700/701, 800/801, 900/901 and 2000 and 4000 4-cylinder tractors.
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Absolutely great video! Thank you for sharing this info. I just had to pull the pump on my 4000 and now I know exactly how to do a full rebuild.
Great work!
After this video I will repair my hydraulic pump. Good man. 👍
Great video!! Thanks for posting.
I lay it all out on work bench because I can’t remember what I did 54 years ago as ford tractor mechanic Lololo
Still kept my seat tools after all these years
This was very helpful, thank you!
Very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to video this rebuild. One missed step usually spells disaster with pumps like this.
thanks man for your efforts
you helped me lot
really good instruct, nice paint job on your tractor, I have a 70 4000 I've also pretty much gone through the whole thing paint and all. slightly different pump it has carbon steel cages that hold the balls and springs, apparently it works with out them, rebuilt it once everything worked , then added extra weight to my gannon box to help carry logs and it blew the back of the seal out on the end piece. took it apart replaced the gaskets, and could not get it to prime, had air pressure in the case and nothing , I made the gaskets not sure if thats the deal ordered a new kit going to do it again
I had a heck of a time getting mine to prime. Actually started the tractor with the plug out vs cranking it. Even after running it took about a minute to get it to prime.
Satish, suresh, mulge😢
Have you ever used 242 lock tight on the screw to keep it from backing out ??
It’s what I use last time
Thank you for the video, appreciate it greatly, I'm rebuilding my pump now....however, I'm having an issue getting that plate out that is held in place by the screw. Any suggestions on how to get it out of the housing? Screw came out fine, tried to tap it left & right to loosen it, no luck.
There is a notch cut into the plate near the bottom, at about the 5 o'clock position, that you can stick a flat blade screwdriver into and use it as a lever to pry it up against the case of the pump. The old gaskets can hold pretty tight and take some persuasion to let go.
I could not get the plate to come out of mine either. The rebuild kit I got came with a new plate so I just welded a nut onto the old plate and threaded a slide hammer into it. It popped off with a few whacks.
congratulations for the video! In Brazil we have the 8Br ford tractor, North American tractor mounted here. The hydraulic pump is identical to the one shown in the video. It is possible to purchase the repair of it in the USA. If yes, I would like your help in getting some repairs. Kind regards. Henrique Starick Brazil I'm a member of your channel.
You should be able to buy that repair kit from any of the tractor parts stores. Dont know of any that will ship to Brazil. Some might. I'll try to answer any questions you have.
What if one of the gaskets is about a 32nd too big? Between the upper and lower housing.
Don't think that would cause any issues as long as the balls set against the seats and the plate properly.
One other question, I did not see in the video, how did you get the seats out that the bearings sit in?
I didn't change the seats in this pump. There is a tool you can buy to remove them however that tool is very britle. I bought one a while back and broke it on the 2nd seat. I then took a stainless steel 1/4-20 x 1.75" bolt and ground the head down and used it along with washers and nuts to create a puller to pull the seats out. Worked way better than the tool. If you go this route you have to grind the head to a diameter of 0.300". I used a belt sander and jam nuts to spin the bolt to even achieve that diameter. To set up the puller, slide the bolt in from the piston side, a couple may be tight and the bolt must be taped in with a hammer to clear casting, then install a large washer to cover the seat side, one nut and then use two nuts on end of thread to create a jam nut where you can hold bolt steady. Tighten nut down against washer and the bolt will pull the seat out easily. To reinstall seats you can purchase an install driver that's not too expensive.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thank you, I ended up using a M6x1 button head bolt, ground the head down and it worked flawless as you described. Thank you again, I was going nuts trying to find a small collet for my puller that would fit.
@@rnccen glad it worked for you. The bolt works so much easier than the puller and is a lot cheaper.
The ford factory seat puller are very tuff and it’s still working great
I have a 1964 4000 gas. The dipstick on the left side below the seat and top cover indicates I have enough fluid. When I open the Allen plug on top of the hydraulic pump and run the tractor, no fluid comes out. What in the pump has likely failed? (My 3 point has failed completely and will not lift.) Thanks.
If you remove the plug on the pump and no fluid comes out you either have a blocked suction port/tube leading to the pump or the pump itself is not pulling enough vacuum to draw fluid into it. If that is the case either a spring, seal, or wobble shaft has let go or worn out and the pump needs a rebuild. Without tearing the pump apart there is no way to know exactly what failed.
@@chickenhousemechanic It turned out to be the broken drive gear on the tractor...
@@blackrocklookout that will definitely do it.
I am wondering if I can add a pressure gauge anywhere in the system to see how well my pump is doing?
Can probably put one where the priming plug is on the head of the pump. Other option would be something on the top cover where a remote hydraulic would bolt on.
I built a flow return tube so I can run it with the top cover off. I have really low volume. I think I need a new pump/rebuild. Any advice?
@@johnenos930 hard to say without knowing what issues you are having. The cam driven hydraulic pumps are pretty low volume, around 4 gpm.
I should have said my pump is the exact one you rebuilt in your video. The arms will lift with out weight on them, but if I put the scraper on it won’t lift it. Thank you for the gpm. Do you know what the pressure should be?
@@johnenos930 not sure what the pressure is but the pressure relief valve should open around 2000 psi if I remember correctly. If your lift works without weight I'd suspect a leaky piston o-ring. With something on the 3 point you can remove the pto shifter cover and then start tractor and try to lift the 3 point. When doing this look up inside the side hole and see if you see oil coming out of the cylinder. If so you found your problem. Since your lift works without weight your pump is probably ok.
Ok e
What about PRIMING the pump if it doesn't pump? Isn't that important? Mine was rebuilt but doesn't pump. It may need primed. I find ZERO info on priming it; even in the volumes of Ford manuals!
Ignore my previous comment, for some reason I thought you were asking about the injection pump. To prime the hydraulic pump you can remove the pipe plug that's on the front top of the pump and crank the tractor over and fluid should start to come out of it. If that doesn't work you can try putting some compressed air into the rear hydraulic chamber to force some oil through the pipes up to the pump.
Pull plug on top of pump, Allen head and pour hyd oil in it and install plug
Be quick about it and start it up
Done
Pour oil in plug hole on pump
Satsh, r