I feel like a magnetic plug should be a standard for every bike and not just an aftermarket accessory. Not like it takes that much effort and resources to put a little neodymium magnet on the end of an oil plug.
Thanks for the update. I found out about Gold Plugs on your Super Cub video and have them in all our fleet of 125s. Seems like your experience on oil burning matches what I've read on forums with Step throughs. I also get the same with my Wave on outback trips. In city traffic and when riding in South East Asia she rarely ever consumed any oil. I'm curious to hear how the synthetic oil goes for you. I ran Penrite 10W-40 fully synthetic at one point. The manual clutch bikes: 2015 Grom, 2019 Monkey and 2016 CB500x all run fine with it. However, the semi automatic Wave 125i experienced a bit of clutch slip on cold days. Since then I moved to Motul 5100 semi synthetic 10W-40. I'm actually a bit surprised about Hondas decision to add this odd dipstick instead of a bit of glass when they made that side cover. If cost for a kick-start side cover was an issue, why not use the Wave side cover which has the dip stick in the filler? Nice bike though, if I wasn't constrained by money and garage space, I would seriously consider a CT125.
Just did the initial oil change at 186 miles simply to get the break-in metals out of the engine, there were a few small metal pieces in the pan. I am sticking with Honda GN4 10w-30 for now and I added the Gold Plug as well. I'll dump it again at 600 miles and see how much sludge remains.
I'm a firm believer in the GoldPlug's effectiveness! I don't typically run synthetic oil in my engines until after the first 1000-1500 miles because it can inhibit proper bedding-in of the valves and rings. Synthetic oil also tends to be a bit thinner and can cause blow-by and seal leakage, so I test a couple of different weights and brands to see what works best in that particular engine. The CT125's last oil change was at the 600-mile check and valve adjustment, and that was with standard petroleum Honda GN4 10W-40. I switched over to full-synthetic on this oil change because the CT125 is well past the initial break-in period now. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Do you have a link for it please? And, yes totally agree! Why not make these standard? I’ve take to attaching a strong magnet to the filter instead since that’s already filtering some things already.
I changes out the oil on my Piaggio I use same thing mobil one full synthetic 10w 40 racing oil but it came with oil filter & screen filter too! Tell you one thing that oil and filter never been changes sense because of air filter foam fell apart just touching it! QM
i wont know how much is on mine until i hit 4k about 1500 miles because it took forever for me to get my plug in. but i had none show up the first two times i changed it. at 500 miles and 1800 miles. but now that i have the plug i should know. but i used valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil for wet clutch and so far i haven't used a drop of oil YET. but the most i have ran so far is 652 miles round trip to the tiddler. but plan on doing something soon as i pay off amazon and then get my new tires.
I didn't make a specific installation video for the trailer on the CT125, but you can see the process unfold on the Super Cub in these two videos: th-cam.com/video/GSxi4kdy2SY/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/8eJ6ARvgfUY/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Anyone know the mL difference between the top and bottom marks on the dipstick? It took me an age to figure out the correct amount of oil to add on the first change as the manual gave a capacity of 900mL. A bit more digging revealed that 200mL was retained in the engine with the bike on centrestand ie just 700mL needed to refill Honda has produced many millions of these engines but they, and their service agents, have not seen the need for magnetic plugs or improved filters - what am I missing here?
I don't know the exact amount remaining in the crankcase after a simple oil drain. The shop manual specifies 0.8 liter after draining and 1.0 liter after disassembly. I typically fill with 800-825mL during my oil changes on the Super Cub and the CT125. I don't know why Honda and other Japanese manufacturers don't include magnetic drain bolts in their powersports products. BMW, Can-Am, and other motorcycle manufacturers include magnetic bolts on their machines. Many automotive manufacturers have them in the transmission pans to keep the abrasive stuff out of the oil/fluid. The Gold Plug has shown me that a LOT of stuff bypasses the spinner (centrifugal particle separator) in these engines. I usually see a similar amount of ferrous sludge on the Gold Plugs that are installed in my larger bikes as well (e.g., CB500X, Rebel 1100, scooters, etc). Most oil filter media can only catch particles down to about 35 microns. The particles that the magnet catches are much smaller (essentially metallic powder), so they can potentially pass through filter media. I'm always amazed (and slightly worried) every time I change the oil and clean these magnets off! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I purchased all of mine through Amazon. I put a product link for this MP-01 in the video description. If you need to look up a different plug for your application, then you can use GoldPlug's website here: goldplug.com/#plugfinder . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I Iive in a hot climate with summer temperatures of 100°F+ throughout the summer, so 10W-40 is an acceptable weight. For some reason, 4T 10W-30 is difficult to find in Southern Texas. Most of the local Honda shops don't even stock the Honda GN1 10W-30... only the 10W-40 variety. It's not uncommon to run thicker weights in air-cooled engines in hot climates... 20W-50 is very common. Full synthetic oils tend to be a bit "thinner" than petroleum oils, so running one grade heavier generally isn't a bad thing. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Howdy, Marc! Yes, I live in a hot climate, so I run 10W-40 in most of my engines. I switched over to this same oil (Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 full-synthetic) in my Super Cub for the latter half of my Scooter Cannonball Run trip. We had been burning 150mL/day of Castrol 4T 10W-40 (full-synthetic) for the first 7000 miles of the trip, but our consumption dropped to nearly ZERO after switching to the Mobil 1... not sure how or why. I would probably switch to Motul or other racing lubricants, but they aren't readily available here. Mobil 1 4T is available at nearly every auto parts store and Wal-Mart, so it's easy to find while out on the road. My road trips can last much longer than a standard oil change interval, so those logistics can be a problem. I'm a firm believer in frequent and early oil changes on these little engines... oil is cheap, engines aren't! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
A Honda engnie, a new Honda engine, the burns excessive motor oil and makes copious metal grindings in the crankcase. What is this world coming to? I wonder how badly the piston is already scored.
Off topic comment. Please delete if inappropriate. Why did you take off the IRC GP-1s? I just ordered some the other day and they are supposed to arrive this week. I like the idea of more off road stability and the fact that you said that they make the speedometer more true.
Howdy, Brandon! No... these videos were edited and posted out of sequence. This video was recorded during my recent trip to Birmingham when I still had the original tires. My CT125 suffered an unpatchable flat (torn tube) on my return trip, so I replaced the original tires & tubes with the IRC GP-1's when I returned home. I still haven't reinstalled my front fender, but that's coming this weekend. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Maybe you didn't see the previous video. The oil was freshly changed the previous day before I left Houston, TX. I crushed 725 miles in one shot (17.5 hours) to meet a friend at this campground. I checked the oil at 350 miles, and it was fine. When I arrived after the 725 mile trip, the oil was ~300 mL low. --QM
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I feel like a magnetic plug should be a standard for every bike and not just an aftermarket accessory. Not like it takes that much effort and resources to put a little neodymium magnet on the end of an oil plug.
Excellent tutorial. 👁2 am a 🪙 plug member.
Thanks to you, I bought the Gold Plug for all of my bikes. Thanks for always sharing your motorcycling knowledge, Quasi!
It seems Honda are out to make maximum profit on the CT 125. The magnetic sump plug and the passenger foot pegs should be standard.
Thanks for the update. I found out about Gold Plugs on your Super Cub video and have them in all our fleet of 125s.
Seems like your experience on oil burning matches what I've read on forums with Step throughs.
I also get the same with my Wave on outback trips. In city traffic and when riding in South East Asia she rarely ever consumed any oil.
I'm curious to hear how the synthetic oil goes for you.
I ran Penrite 10W-40 fully synthetic at one point. The manual clutch bikes: 2015 Grom, 2019 Monkey and 2016 CB500x all run fine with it. However, the semi automatic Wave 125i experienced a bit of clutch slip on cold days. Since then I moved to Motul 5100 semi synthetic 10W-40.
I'm actually a bit surprised about Hondas decision to add this odd dipstick instead of a bit of glass when they made that side cover. If cost for a kick-start side cover was an issue, why not use the Wave side cover which has the dip stick in the filler?
Nice bike though, if I wasn't constrained by money and garage space, I would seriously consider a CT125.
When I changed my pcx oil I was in no hurry so I stuck my drain plug on to a powerful magnet that I had for a couple of hours and magnetized the plug.
Just did the initial oil change at 186 miles simply to get the break-in metals out of the engine, there were a few small metal pieces in the pan. I am sticking with Honda GN4 10w-30 for now and I added the Gold Plug as well. I'll dump it again at 600 miles and see how much sludge remains.
After you are done draining your oil, hand drive the kick starter several times and you will get darker oil coming out.
the Gold Plug is MADE in the USA ! ( montana ) cold weather lately im still at just over 600 mi
Those plugs seem to work great. Have you considered using synthetic oil?
I'm a firm believer in the GoldPlug's effectiveness! I don't typically run synthetic oil in my engines until after the first 1000-1500 miles because it can inhibit proper bedding-in of the valves and rings. Synthetic oil also tends to be a bit thinner and can cause blow-by and seal leakage, so I test a couple of different weights and brands to see what works best in that particular engine.
The CT125's last oil change was at the 600-mile check and valve adjustment, and that was with standard petroleum Honda GN4 10W-40. I switched over to full-synthetic on this oil change because the CT125 is well past the initial break-in period now. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Do you have a link for it please? And, yes totally agree! Why not make these standard? I’ve take to attaching a strong magnet to the filter instead since that’s already filtering some things already.
The product links are in the video description. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thanks so much!
Good job, much needed on the full bore run back to texas. Big believer in frequent oil changes in theses small bore rigs.
I changes out the oil on my Piaggio I use same thing mobil one full synthetic 10w 40 racing oil but it came with oil filter & screen filter too! Tell you one thing that oil and filter never been changes sense because of air filter foam fell apart just touching it! QM
i wont know how much is on mine until i hit 4k about 1500 miles because it took forever for me to get my plug in. but i had none show up the first two times i changed it. at 500 miles and 1800 miles. but now that i have the plug i should know. but i used valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil for wet clutch and so far i haven't used a drop of oil YET. but the most i have ran so far is 652 miles round trip to the tiddler. but plan on doing something soon as i pay off amazon and then get my new tires.
oh where did you get your trailer and everything to hook it to the bike. did you make a video of it yet?
I didn't make a specific installation video for the trailer on the CT125, but you can see the process unfold on the Super Cub in these two videos: th-cam.com/video/GSxi4kdy2SY/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/8eJ6ARvgfUY/w-d-xo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I changed my oil at 350 miles. Made a big difference. I was able to go 5mph faster in 3rd and 4th gears. I will use synthetic at 1000K.
Anyone know the mL difference between the top and bottom marks on the dipstick?
It took me an age to figure out the correct amount of oil to add on the first change as the manual gave a capacity of 900mL. A bit more digging revealed that 200mL was retained in the engine with the bike on centrestand ie just 700mL needed to refill
Honda has produced many millions of these engines but they, and their service agents, have not seen the need for magnetic plugs or improved filters - what am I missing here?
I don't know the exact amount remaining in the crankcase after a simple oil drain. The shop manual specifies 0.8 liter after draining and 1.0 liter after disassembly. I typically fill with 800-825mL during my oil changes on the Super Cub and the CT125.
I don't know why Honda and other Japanese manufacturers don't include magnetic drain bolts in their powersports products. BMW, Can-Am, and other motorcycle manufacturers include magnetic bolts on their machines. Many automotive manufacturers have them in the transmission pans to keep the abrasive stuff out of the oil/fluid.
The Gold Plug has shown me that a LOT of stuff bypasses the spinner (centrifugal particle separator) in these engines. I usually see a similar amount of ferrous sludge on the Gold Plugs that are installed in my larger bikes as well (e.g., CB500X, Rebel 1100, scooters, etc). Most oil filter media can only catch particles down to about 35 microns. The particles that the magnet catches are much smaller (essentially metallic powder), so they can potentially pass through filter media.
I'm always amazed (and slightly worried) every time I change the oil and clean these magnets off! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Where did you get your magnetic plug from. Been looking in diff places and not really finding them?
I purchased all of mine through Amazon. I put a product link for this MP-01 in the video description. If you need to look up a different plug for your application, then you can use GoldPlug's website here: goldplug.com/#plugfinder . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
seperate filler and dipstick, that's unusual.
What’s the reasoning for going with 10W40 instead of 10W30 as the owner’s manual prescribes?
I Iive in a hot climate with summer temperatures of 100°F+ throughout the summer, so 10W-40 is an acceptable weight. For some reason, 4T 10W-30 is difficult to find in Southern Texas. Most of the local Honda shops don't even stock the Honda GN1 10W-30... only the 10W-40 variety.
It's not uncommon to run thicker weights in air-cooled engines in hot climates... 20W-50 is very common. Full synthetic oils tend to be a bit "thinner" than petroleum oils, so running one grade heavier generally isn't a bad thing. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
first
Aaron do you use the same oil 10/40 in the Supercub? mines coming up for a third service although pretty low mileage.
Marc In Bletchley G6XEG
Howdy, Marc! Yes, I live in a hot climate, so I run 10W-40 in most of my engines. I switched over to this same oil (Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 full-synthetic) in my Super Cub for the latter half of my Scooter Cannonball Run trip. We had been burning 150mL/day of Castrol 4T 10W-40 (full-synthetic) for the first 7000 miles of the trip, but our consumption dropped to nearly ZERO after switching to the Mobil 1... not sure how or why.
I would probably switch to Motul or other racing lubricants, but they aren't readily available here. Mobil 1 4T is available at nearly every auto parts store and Wal-Mart, so it's easy to find while out on the road. My road trips can last much longer than a standard oil change interval, so those logistics can be a problem. I'm a firm believer in frequent and early oil changes on these little engines... oil is cheap, engines aren't! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
A Honda engnie, a new Honda engine, the burns excessive motor oil and makes copious metal grindings in the crankcase. What is this world coming to? I wonder how badly the piston is already scored.
Can i use ma2 instead of ma ?
Certainly! JASO MA-2 supercedes MA, so it's safe to use in wet clutch motorcycle applications. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for your reply
Off topic comment. Please delete if inappropriate. Why did you take off the IRC GP-1s? I just ordered some the other day and they are supposed to arrive this week. I like the idea of more off road stability and the fact that you said that they make the speedometer more true.
Howdy, Brandon! No... these videos were edited and posted out of sequence. This video was recorded during my recent trip to Birmingham when I still had the original tires.
My CT125 suffered an unpatchable flat (torn tube) on my return trip, so I replaced the original tires & tubes with the IRC GP-1's when I returned home.
I still haven't reinstalled my front fender, but that's coming this weekend. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Oh ok. That makes sense. We're up here in Cherokee county, TX. Between Lufkin and Tyler. I bought a pair of these. Love them!
That's some dark oil for so few miles .
Sludge at 1800 miles something not right in that engine.
Hopefully still under Warranty..
Why would you let it get low? That's user error.
Maybe you didn't see the previous video. The oil was freshly changed the previous day before I left Houston, TX. I crushed 725 miles in one shot (17.5 hours) to meet a friend at this campground. I checked the oil at 350 miles, and it was fine. When I arrived after the 725 mile trip, the oil was ~300 mL low. --QM
I remember those noisy kids on our trip to twisted sisters
They followed me all the way up to Alabama! 🤣👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard sucks for you. Man once our new officer graduate the academy in october I need a week long moto trip