Thanks for the review. Starting to move away from my Scarpa Phantom Tech (1st Gen) and trying the G5 EVO. I’m a solid 44 in the Scarpa and had bad luck with Batura fit in past, 44.5 too tight, 45 I couldn’t get tight i think. Hoping the Evo is a better fit and more toe box. Have any sizing recommendations compared to Scarpa? I’ve ordered a 45 EVO and looking for a 44.5 to rule out. I’m a solid US10.5, 44 Scarpa in PT and 6000. Feel I could always sock up with a liner layer or thin extra insole if it works. Scrapa P Tech not that warm for me and can’t keep snug with lacing, hassle and calves suffer secondary. Thanks.
Yeah the sizing between Sportiva and Scarpa is definitely weird. Even sizing within Sportiva's shoes is weird, I size my approach shoes at a 44 and some fit kinda tight, but when I sized my boots in a 44 both the G5 EVO and the G-Tech felt like they had way more room. But that extra space definitely gets filled by a thicker sock. What I will say is that the G5 EVO has a more accommodating fit, definitely more room in the toe box compared to other boots. And all I can say for sizing is make sure that the boot isn't too loose as you'll never get the BOA tight enough and it'll feel sloppy. Finding the balance between comfort and tightness is key for a boot that has BOA
Well, I decided on the 45 even though I’m a US 10.5 generally. I’ve climbed in them 4 days now in past 3 wkds. I’ve added a Superfeet RedHot insole and used a Smartwool Mt’eer sock for day1. After about an hour in the boot, they felt kinda loose and sloppy, felt like I was close to max BOA tight to keep them working. This being after trying at home for 2 weeks and compared the 44.5 and 45, ruling out the 44.5. Days 2/3 I added a SW sock liner to the setup at was tougher at start and better tightness through day with BOA, still getting pretty tight on them for hard ice. Day 4 was today, and felt a bit better and actually more snug with that sock/insole system. Maybe they have broken in a bit to my foot, but the definitely feel snug when I put on and more loose 1 hr in. With all that sock, line, and insole, I have again ordered a 44.5 to compare again. I feel these pack in a bit after wearing 1+ hrs and maybe I need to do that at home. Also, like the SW Mtn’eer sock bout would prefer no liner and a better fit for climbing. Trying to balance warmth, volume, but options for variable conditions for NE ice days. You had mentioned not trying to rely on BOA to make them fit, but feel like that’s what I’m doing now with the 45 since the feel like packed in and using insole plus 2 sock layers. Any input would be helpful, thanks.
@@ajfink1141 Yeah so I'd definitely downsize your boot, and it sounds like you are in the process of doing that. Having to do what you were trying to do to make the boot fit right is a pretty clear sign that the boot is way too big. For reference I wear a size 44 street shoe and that equates to a 10.5+ US, and I bought a size 44 G5 EVO. And I feel like to get a good fit with that boot I'd have to downsize to a 43.5. But for me to get the best fit with my current pair all I do is use that smartwool mountaineering sock and it seems to do the trick of filling up the space. You really shouldn't have to do a lot of finagling to get the boots to work, and I will definitely echo it again, having the boot fit good without the BOA is key. And that is the biggest reason to why I prefer the G-Tech, because it fits well for me without the BOA engaged. I also think for whatever reason the BOA on the G5 EVO isn't that great, because I also ran into the problem where I would tighten it before the climb and not too long after it would start to loosen up.
In a newer video you talk about the bad durability of the G tech. Does this change something at the result of this comparison? Would you recommend the g tech even the way of use also includes mountaineering in the alps?
Hey Kellen, thanks for the review! Really help to understand the boot better. One question - sizing. You said you have 44 both for G-tech and G5, but what is your mondo point?
So mondopoint sizing is not a great way to gauge the sizing of mountaineering boots. Even if you use La Sportiva's sizing chart (that includes mondopoint) you won't get the correct sizing for mountaineering boots if you use mondopoint as the base measurement for that chart. As an example, my mondopoint is 26, that translates to a 40.5 in Sportiva footwear, and if you go with the rule of going up by a whole size or a half size for comfort that put's it at a maximum translation of 41.5. That maximum translation is actually my performance sizing for my rock climbing shoes from Sportiva, and that fit has my toes completely curled. So sizing is definitely funky with mondopoint.
For long approaches (5-8 miles), which would feel more comfortable? I’m asking for comfort fitting more than foot fatigue as the lighter of the 2 gives less fatigue.
The G-Tech is the best for long approaches, it’s widely considered to be the most walkable mountaineering boot. So you get the best of both worlds, less foot fatigue and better walking comfort with the G-Tech
I also have another question about the G Tech. For resting or belaying, how cold the conditions do you think the boot could withstand? If you’re not actively climbing. 0 F? 10 F?
@@L4mTr4n It really depends, I've been out on days where I just stand around and belay and my feet never got cold (15F days) But then I've also had days where it's been in the 20s and my feet froze, mostly due to standing on a weird angle. And that seems to be a normal problem with BOA system boots. Basically it just starts to limit circulation. So to answer your question the G-Tech can handle some pretty cold temps while just belaying or resting, but the two factors that come in are how long, and what angle
Got it. Thanks for the response! I love how the G Tech is noticeably lighter and nimble than the G5 Evo. I’ve been in the G5 Evo and they’re not as fitting on my feet as putting on the G Tech. I’ve decided to go with the G Tech instead. The G Summit that is coming out weighs the same as the Evos too so I’m not going to wait around for that since I prefer a lighter setup.
How is the water proofness between them. I've get very boggy alpine condition which I envy when looking at what is in north America. Trying to find the most water proof mountain boot. Thinking the zip on the G-Tech makes a difference.
So the waterproofness between the two boots is the same, and that's to say that they handle a wet environment with ease. A lot of the climbs we have up here in the northwest are fairly wet so I've got a good idea on how both boots perform in wet conditions. An example I have is that both boots have been dry in some ankle level wading. It's also worth mentioning that the zippers on the boots are the exact same. The only difference is that the G5 EVO just has a velcro cover that goes over the zipper.
Hi mate, are these boots more for your serious expeditions? I am from the UK and after a autumn/winter/spring boot to use in rainy, boggy, snowy conditions when out on hikes, so thinking The Lake District, Munros of Scotland and The Snowdonia Range, if you are familiar with those. Thanks mate
Hey! Yeah these boot's are definitely more technical than what you are looking for. If I may give you a recommendation, I would look at the (La Sportiva) Aequilibrium Top GTX or the Aequilibrium ST GTX. I think you'll find that these boots more apt for your needs. I do have a video on the Aequilibrium ST GTX, and that can be found here th-cam.com/video/E0SktWDvfH0/w-d-xo.html
@@TheBelaytionship Hey Kellen, thanks for this, you’ve been a great help. I will for sure check your video out and will post any questions if I have any over there. I have some La Sportiva Cyklon which I use for fast hikes (we have in the UK the Yorkshire 3 Peaks which is a 24 mile round trek) and I have used those there, with great results, so love the La Sportiva range.
@@IrfanOomer That's awesome! Glad I can help out! And yeah if you have any question about the Aequilibrium just post them and I'll be sure to answer them
@@IrfanOomerhi mate, I’m a UK based climber mountaineer and think I can offer some guidance on this. The G5 and G-Tech are overkill for English and Welsh mountaineering, but perfect for Scottish Winter North Face Routes. Northern Cories such as Coire an Sneachda (see Rockfax) or the North Face of Ben Nevis. Outside of these conditions these boots are far too heavy and technical for anything else you’ll find in the UK. In the UK boots are rated on crampon compatibility. You don’t see this system mentioned on vids from abroad as it’s a UK rating only. B0, B1, B2 and B3. The G5’s and G-Techs are B3. For spring and autumn in the lakes you’ll be fine with a regular walking boot (B0). For winter you’ll want a B1 or B2 such as La Sportiva Aequilibrium or La Sportiva Trango Tower. These suggestions are B2 and accept a semi-automatic crampon.
@@connorseddon1182 hi Connor, thanks for the message. Very glad that you’ve given a 🇬🇧 view on it as I wasn’t sure if the shoes were going to be overkill for our peaks and fells. I have wide feet so would the Aequilibrium be ok or do I need to size up?
Well just the other day I was able to use them in -4°F (-20°C) and they handled the exposure pretty well, no mind blowing warmth but for for a lightweight single boot they did fine
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Thanks for the review. Starting to move away from my Scarpa Phantom Tech (1st Gen) and trying the G5 EVO. I’m a solid 44 in the Scarpa and had bad luck with Batura fit in past, 44.5 too tight, 45 I couldn’t get tight i think. Hoping the Evo is a better fit and more toe box.
Have any sizing recommendations compared to Scarpa? I’ve ordered a 45 EVO and looking for a 44.5 to rule out. I’m a solid US10.5, 44 Scarpa in PT and 6000. Feel I could always sock up with a liner layer or thin extra insole if it works. Scrapa P Tech not that warm for me and can’t keep snug with lacing, hassle and calves suffer secondary. Thanks.
Yeah the sizing between Sportiva and Scarpa is definitely weird. Even sizing within Sportiva's shoes is weird, I size my approach shoes at a 44 and some fit kinda tight, but when I sized my boots in a 44 both the G5 EVO and the G-Tech felt like they had way more room. But that extra space definitely gets filled by a thicker sock.
What I will say is that the G5 EVO has a more accommodating fit, definitely more room in the toe box compared to other boots. And all I can say for sizing is make sure that the boot isn't too loose as you'll never get the BOA tight enough and it'll feel sloppy. Finding the balance between comfort and tightness is key for a boot that has BOA
Thanks for the info, will compare the sizes soon and see how they work.
Well, I decided on the 45 even though I’m a US 10.5 generally. I’ve climbed in them 4 days now in past 3 wkds. I’ve added a Superfeet RedHot insole and used a Smartwool Mt’eer sock for day1. After about an hour in the boot, they felt kinda loose and sloppy, felt like I was close to max BOA tight to keep them working. This being after trying at home for 2 weeks and compared the 44.5 and 45, ruling out the 44.5. Days 2/3 I added a SW sock liner to the setup at was tougher at start and better tightness through day with BOA, still getting pretty tight on them for hard ice. Day 4 was today, and felt a bit better and actually more snug with that sock/insole system. Maybe they have broken in a bit to my foot, but the definitely feel snug when I put on and more loose 1 hr in. With all that sock, line, and insole, I have again ordered a 44.5 to compare again. I feel these pack in a bit after wearing 1+ hrs and maybe I need to do that at home. Also, like the SW Mtn’eer sock bout would prefer no liner and a better fit for climbing. Trying to balance warmth, volume, but options for variable conditions for NE ice days. You had mentioned not trying to rely on BOA to make them fit, but feel like that’s what I’m doing now with the 45 since the feel like packed in and using insole plus 2 sock layers. Any input would be helpful, thanks.
@@ajfink1141 Yeah so I'd definitely downsize your boot, and it sounds like you are in the process of doing that. Having to do what you were trying to do to make the boot fit right is a pretty clear sign that the boot is way too big.
For reference I wear a size 44 street shoe and that equates to a 10.5+ US, and I bought a size 44 G5 EVO. And I feel like to get a good fit with that boot I'd have to downsize to a 43.5. But for me to get the best fit with my current pair all I do is use that smartwool mountaineering sock and it seems to do the trick of filling up the space.
You really shouldn't have to do a lot of finagling to get the boots to work, and I will definitely echo it again, having the boot fit good without the BOA is key. And that is the biggest reason to why I prefer the G-Tech, because it fits well for me without the BOA engaged.
I also think for whatever reason the BOA on the G5 EVO isn't that great, because I also ran into the problem where I would tighten it before the climb and not too long after it would start to loosen up.
G tech is for 6000 M + altitude climb? Or low.?
In a newer video you talk about the bad durability of the G tech. Does this change something at the result of this comparison? Would you recommend the g tech even the way of use also includes mountaineering in the alps?
Hey Kellen, thanks for the review! Really help to understand the boot better. One question - sizing. You said you have 44 both for G-tech and G5, but what is your mondo point?
So mondopoint sizing is not a great way to gauge the sizing of mountaineering boots. Even if you use La Sportiva's sizing chart (that includes mondopoint) you won't get the correct sizing for mountaineering boots if you use mondopoint as the base measurement for that chart.
As an example, my mondopoint is 26, that translates to a 40.5 in Sportiva footwear, and if you go with the rule of going up by a whole size or a half size for comfort that put's it at a maximum translation of 41.5. That maximum translation is actually my performance sizing for my rock climbing shoes from Sportiva, and that fit has my toes completely curled. So sizing is definitely funky with mondopoint.
For long approaches (5-8 miles), which would feel more comfortable? I’m asking for comfort fitting more than foot fatigue as the lighter of the 2 gives less fatigue.
The G-Tech is the best for long approaches, it’s widely considered to be the most walkable mountaineering boot. So you get the best of both worlds, less foot fatigue and better walking comfort with the G-Tech
I also have another question about the G Tech. For resting or belaying, how cold the conditions do you think the boot could withstand? If you’re not actively climbing. 0 F? 10 F?
@@L4mTr4n It really depends, I've been out on days where I just stand around and belay and my feet never got cold (15F days)
But then I've also had days where it's been in the 20s and my feet froze, mostly due to standing on a weird angle. And that seems to be a normal problem with BOA system boots. Basically it just starts to limit circulation.
So to answer your question the G-Tech can handle some pretty cold temps while just belaying or resting, but the two factors that come in are how long, and what angle
Got it. Thanks for the response! I love how the G Tech is noticeably lighter and nimble than the G5 Evo. I’ve been in the G5 Evo and they’re not as fitting on my feet as putting on the G Tech. I’ve decided to go with the G Tech instead. The G Summit that is coming out weighs the same as the Evos too so I’m not going to wait around for that since I prefer a lighter setup.
How is the water proofness between them. I've get very boggy alpine condition which I envy when looking at what is in north America. Trying to find the most water proof mountain boot. Thinking the zip on the G-Tech makes a difference.
So the waterproofness between the two boots is the same, and that's to say that they handle a wet environment with ease. A lot of the climbs we have up here in the northwest are fairly wet so I've got a good idea on how both boots perform in wet conditions. An example I have is that both boots have been dry in some ankle level wading. It's also worth mentioning that the zippers on the boots are the exact same. The only difference is that the G5 EVO just has a velcro cover that goes over the zipper.
@@TheBelaytionship Thanks for the detailed answer. Keep up the good work.
Hi mate, are these boots more for your serious expeditions? I am from the UK and after a autumn/winter/spring boot to use in rainy, boggy, snowy conditions when out on hikes, so thinking The Lake District, Munros of Scotland and The Snowdonia Range, if you are familiar with those. Thanks mate
Hey! Yeah these boot's are definitely more technical than what you are looking for. If I may give you a recommendation, I would look at the (La Sportiva) Aequilibrium Top GTX or the Aequilibrium ST GTX. I think you'll find that these boots more apt for your needs.
I do have a video on the Aequilibrium ST GTX, and that can be found here th-cam.com/video/E0SktWDvfH0/w-d-xo.html
@@TheBelaytionship Hey Kellen, thanks for this, you’ve been a great help. I will for sure check your video out and will post any questions if I have any over there. I have some La Sportiva Cyklon which I use for fast hikes (we have in the UK the Yorkshire 3 Peaks which is a 24 mile round trek) and I have used those there, with great results, so love the La Sportiva range.
@@IrfanOomer That's awesome! Glad I can help out! And yeah if you have any question about the Aequilibrium just post them and I'll be sure to answer them
@@IrfanOomerhi mate, I’m a UK based climber mountaineer and think I can offer some guidance on this.
The G5 and G-Tech are overkill for English and Welsh mountaineering, but perfect for Scottish Winter North Face Routes. Northern Cories such as Coire an Sneachda (see Rockfax) or the North Face of Ben Nevis. Outside of these conditions these boots are far too heavy and technical for anything else you’ll find in the UK.
In the UK boots are rated on crampon compatibility. You don’t see this system mentioned on vids from abroad as it’s a UK rating only. B0, B1, B2 and B3. The G5’s and G-Techs are B3.
For spring and autumn in the lakes you’ll be fine with a regular walking boot (B0). For winter you’ll want a B1 or B2 such as La Sportiva Aequilibrium or La Sportiva Trango Tower. These suggestions are B2 and accept a semi-automatic crampon.
@@connorseddon1182 hi Connor, thanks for the message. Very glad that you’ve given a 🇬🇧 view on it as I wasn’t sure if the shoes were going to be overkill for our peaks and fells. I have wide feet so would the Aequilibrium be ok or do I need to size up?
Thanks for the comparasion... im buying a G5.. hope its good for me
What does, "decently cold" mean? Are you talking -20C or -5C?
Well just the other day I was able to use them in -4°F (-20°C) and they handled the exposure pretty well, no mind blowing warmth but for for a lightweight single boot they did fine
For me the g-tech flexes to much, feels more like a stiff 3/4 boot