On the soles: Scarpa's are a little softer rubber, while La Sportiva's use a super hard rubber. Scarpa climbs 100x better on rock. That being said, I only really use these in winter and have spent 2 full winter seasons with them until now (well over 80 hard ice climbs, mixed climbing w/ 2 weeks in Scotland and 2 big alpine objectives, Grandes Jorasses true south face and Eiger Northface as well as some high alpine mixed cragging) and they are still going strong! 2 small holes in the upper part of the gater, which is easily fixed with some tent-tape. The Scarpa's are geniously formed: wide on the forefoot, narrow in the back for great oversight on where your feet are. 10/10 would recommend. Missing the lace lock from the old Phantom Guides to lock out the forefoot. Also I don't know anyone who hasn't broken their laces yet with the eyes being very sharp and they are a PAIN to replace with the fixed gaiter. They need to fix that.
Fantastic review and comparison, and much to my surprise you hit on the exact issue I'm struggling with - size. My feet (specifically my right foot) are a smidgen too big for Scarpa's 48, and they don't make a 49 in a lightweight boot. I recently had a chance to try on a Scarpa 6000 in a 49, and it was so damn comfy...given how impossible it is for me to find boots I considered it, but just standing in the shop for 15 minutes my feet were getting noticeably warmer by the second. It's simply too much boot for the PNW. Finding a 48 LS around Vancouver seems impossible, but your review gives me the confidence to order them online. Thanks again!
I waterproofed my La Sportiva Evos. The La Sportivas are very stiff and work great with my crampons. I live in Alaska and spend a lot of time in crampons. Great review.
Thanks for this great video! The best real comparison I’ve found anywhere. I’m going to be doing some 6000+ metre volcano climbing in Bolivia next year and am struggling to find the right boot. Tried the Phantom 6000 HD in a 42 but I can feel the toes on my left foot barely touching the front which will be a problem on descent. I tried the 43 but my feet move around too much. They dont offer 1/2 sizes. Thinking I will try the G2 EVO. Any suggestions you have would be very much appreciated! Thanks
HI! Thanks for the review, just wondering your advice, I'm planning to climb Mt Denali at the end of the month, do yo know if it is easy to buy these boots in Seattle or Anchorage? In my city there is no store where I can buy them and I would like to try them before muy them. Thank you!😘
Several places near Seattle where you can get them. Though, I wouldn't recommend these boots for Denali. You need a true double boot for summit day. Especially if you are going with a guided group and plan to move slow and spend a long time on the mountain. People use these boots often in Alaska and are fast and light climbers.
Awesome video. What size shoe do you wear in US sizes? I’m a size 14 so I’m right on that 48 or 49 cusp. Looking for a little help before dropping $600 on boots. Thanks for any insight!
Wondering how it compares to a Mammut Norwand High Knit boot. As I'm interested in this boot. I would doing somelike like Rainer, Baker. Not doing any very technical mountaineering
It all depends on your feet. Everyone is going to prefer a different boot depending on their foot shape. The phantom tech is the perfect Rainier boot. My last Mammuts were too narrow for me. Since I have found boots that work, I have generally just stuck to the Scarpa!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Yeah, I ended up cancelling my Mammut order. I loved the fit, comfort and it was one of the lightest boots. But, I fear that it wouldn't be as warm. Theres a lack of reviews on it, so I don't know. My feet get cold easily. So, Im going to try the Scarpa or the La Sportiva and see whichever feels better.
Hi,good video! I am in Asia, thinking to buy phantom tech online for hiking in Fuji mt this December. My foot length is 28cm, and my backpacking boots size is UK11, EU46 (Millet Bouthan GTX). Which size will you recommend me to buy? Thank you.
Hi! Thx for this video. I have a wide Egyptian style foot and a narrow heel. Which of these shoes are better for wide feet? I have Zamberland Expert pro and unfortunately, despite the comfort, they are too narrow, especially when going down.
Yeah, that is tough. The La Sportiva is wide everywhere. The Scarpa feels like a sports car on your feet. I have very wide feet and am happy with the fit of the Scarpa. Secures the heel perfectly. I wish it was slightly wider, but am not willing to wear the hunky La Sportiva because of it. If you can't try both, I would vouch for the Scarpa. Most likely (I can't guarantee) my feet are probably wider then yours. Over time from running ultras and carrying heavy packs, they have more or less - smashed and widened. I still find the Scarpa to be a great boot and I don't think you can go wrong.
lots of useful info, would like to swing both based on what you shared. have BOA on road bike shoes, yeah you have to be careful with the power thanks for this
A fellow big foot here. I have a old pair of the scarpa phantom tech in sz 48 (original model) they are wearing out and feel a touch too small now, I didn’t realize they did the techs in size 49, where did you order your from? What approach shoe size are you normally for comparison? I’m a 48 in the scarpa crux
Either bobleisure or alpinstore. Looks like they are out of stock of the larger sizes right now. I often wear a 48 in an approach shoe. Depending on the shoe, it’s either perfect or slightly small haha. 49 is perfect for me, (and likely you) in the Scarpa. The LS is good in a 48. Worst case, if you can’t find a 49…you’ll likely find a 48 LS and it should work better then your Scarpa if it’s too small.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 thanks for taking the time to check those sites and the reply. I’ll try track down some 49 in the phantom tech and see how I get on! Cheers! Great channel
Wow, good eye. Yeah, it’s widely unaccepted as a modern method. This used to be commonplace. I definitely prefer to extend and put the backup close. I don’t know what I was doing that day. But, honestly good eye bro!
Both have a solid shank. I wouldn’t be concerned with either on WI5. I’d care more about the length of your approaches. If you have long approaches, the LS may hold up better over time. The sole is known to be considerably stronger. Ideally, you’d try both because that’s not enough of a reason to go LS if it’s not comfortable. Sorry about your little calves 😂.
I wish Scarpa would have moved to BOA. That lacing system on Phantoms is dreadful. Never had issues with the system, but I do carry a spare all the time just in case. The opening is also very narrow and not the easiest to get in/out. The sole on G5 is certainly more durable. After 5 seasons is still life in mine. The waterproofing though is a let down. With the recent global warming and + temps when snow/ice starts to melt there is always moisture going in. I also prefer the fully stiff sole on G5. There is so much flex in the Phantom. I agree with the fit being more generous in G5, though I was expecting a tighter fit on the so called "technical fit" on Phantoms. If I could have the sole unit, fit, stiffness, insulation and BOA from G5 with the outer shell of a Phantom tech.. perfect boot for me.
Good review. It seems like a PNW biased review so that should be made clear because the advice given is not appropriate for the Rockies where dry cold snow and creek crossings are the norm.
On the soles: Scarpa's are a little softer rubber, while La Sportiva's use a super hard rubber. Scarpa climbs 100x better on rock. That being said, I only really use these in winter and have spent 2 full winter seasons with them until now (well over 80 hard ice climbs, mixed climbing w/ 2 weeks in Scotland and 2 big alpine objectives, Grandes Jorasses true south face and Eiger Northface as well as some high alpine mixed cragging) and they are still going strong! 2 small holes in the upper part of the gater, which is easily fixed with some tent-tape. The Scarpa's are geniously formed: wide on the forefoot, narrow in the back for great oversight on where your feet are. 10/10 would recommend. Missing the lace lock from the old Phantom Guides to lock out the forefoot. Also I don't know anyone who hasn't broken their laces yet with the eyes being very sharp and they are a PAIN to replace with the fixed gaiter. They need to fix that.
Hei, how is the warmth on Scarpas?
I would argue that scarpas are narrow in the back, those are the widest shoes in the back I ever had and the only one where my heel is loose :(
best comparison ever. thank you very much this is super usefull for understanding subtle differences btw the 2.
Thank you very much! I’m glad I could help!
Fantastic review and comparison, and much to my surprise you hit on the exact issue I'm struggling with - size. My feet (specifically my right foot) are a smidgen too big for Scarpa's 48, and they don't make a 49 in a lightweight boot. I recently had a chance to try on a Scarpa 6000 in a 49, and it was so damn comfy...given how impossible it is for me to find boots I considered it, but just standing in the shop for 15 minutes my feet were getting noticeably warmer by the second. It's simply too much boot for the PNW. Finding a 48 LS around Vancouver seems impossible, but your review gives me the confidence to order them online. Thanks again!
I waterproofed my La Sportiva Evos. The La Sportivas are very stiff and work great with my crampons. I live in Alaska and spend a lot of time in crampons. Great review.
Thanks for this great video! The best real comparison I’ve found anywhere. I’m going to be doing some 6000+ metre volcano climbing in Bolivia next year and am struggling to find the right boot. Tried the Phantom 6000 HD in a 42 but I can feel the toes on my left foot barely touching the front which will be a problem on descent. I tried the 43 but my feet move around too much. They dont offer 1/2 sizes. Thinking I will try the G2 EVO. Any suggestions you have would be very much appreciated! Thanks
Awesome review, thank you!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for sharing. Out of interest, what is the lowest temp and or highest altitude you’ve used the G5 in?
Great question! I’ve been in -10F with them. They are fine for that but I wouldn’t be “hanging out”. I’d definitely keep a move on!
HI! Thanks for the review, just wondering your advice, I'm planning to climb Mt Denali at the end of the month, do yo know if it is easy to buy these boots in Seattle or Anchorage? In my city there is no store where I can buy them and I would like to try them before muy them. Thank you!😘
Several places near Seattle where you can get them. Though, I wouldn't recommend these boots for Denali. You need a true double boot for summit day. Especially if you are going with a guided group and plan to move slow and spend a long time on the mountain. People use these boots often in Alaska and are fast and light climbers.
Awesome video. What size shoe do you wear in US sizes? I’m a size 14 so I’m right on that 48 or 49 cusp. Looking for a little help before dropping $600 on boots. Thanks for any insight!
I wear a 48 La Sportiva and a 49 Scarpa. The 48 Scarpa is too small. I also wear a 14 US street shoe.
Wondering how it compares to a Mammut Norwand High Knit boot. As I'm interested in this boot.
I would doing somelike like Rainer, Baker. Not doing any very technical mountaineering
It all depends on your feet. Everyone is going to prefer a different boot depending on their foot shape. The phantom tech is the perfect Rainier boot. My last Mammuts were too narrow for me. Since I have found boots that work, I have generally just stuck to the Scarpa!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Yeah, I ended up cancelling my Mammut order. I loved the fit, comfort and it was one of the lightest boots. But, I fear that it wouldn't be as warm. Theres a lack of reviews on it, so I don't know. My feet get cold easily. So, Im going to try the Scarpa or the La Sportiva and see whichever feels better.
Thank you for your video. Would you consider the Scarpa Phantom Tech for a 6000 mts peak? Thanx again
Can you review Lowa Expert? How have these shoes performed over time?
I can!
scarpa did not fit my foot shape, la sportiva have been great. suggest trying them on before deciding.
Definitely. I’ve wasted so much money when I haven’t been able to try on gear!
Hi,good video! I am in Asia, thinking to buy phantom tech online for hiking in Fuji mt this December. My foot length is 28cm, and my backpacking boots size is UK11, EU46 (Millet Bouthan GTX). Which size will you recommend me to buy? Thank you.
Hi! Thx for this video. I have a wide Egyptian style foot and a narrow heel. Which of these shoes are better for wide feet? I have Zamberland Expert pro and unfortunately, despite the comfort, they are too narrow, especially when going down.
Yeah, that is tough. The La Sportiva is wide everywhere. The Scarpa feels like a sports car on your feet. I have very wide feet and am happy with the fit of the Scarpa. Secures the heel perfectly. I wish it was slightly wider, but am not willing to wear the hunky La Sportiva because of it. If you can't try both, I would vouch for the Scarpa. Most likely (I can't guarantee) my feet are probably wider then yours. Over time from running ultras and carrying heavy packs, they have more or less - smashed and widened. I still find the Scarpa to be a great boot and I don't think you can go wrong.
lots of useful info, would like to swing both based on what you shared. have BOA on road bike shoes, yeah you have to be careful with the power thanks for this
on a side note do you have any experience with epictv shop, their prices on some items are too good to be true
@@billhackley3540 epictv is awesome! Love those guys.
A fellow big foot here. I have a old pair of the scarpa phantom tech in sz 48 (original model) they are wearing out and feel a touch too small now, I didn’t realize they did the techs in size 49, where did you order your from? What approach shoe size are you normally for comparison? I’m a 48 in the scarpa crux
Either bobleisure or alpinstore. Looks like they are out of stock of the larger sizes right now. I often wear a 48 in an approach shoe. Depending on the shoe, it’s either perfect or slightly small haha. 49 is perfect for me, (and likely you) in the Scarpa. The LS is good in a 48. Worst case, if you can’t find a 49…you’ll likely find a 48 LS and it should work better then your Scarpa if it’s too small.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 thanks for taking the time to check those sites and the reply. I’ll try track down some 49 in the phantom tech and see how I get on! Cheers! Great channel
@@brendanmaggs thank you very much!!
7:37 why a prussic? why over the belay plate? save weight not extending?
Wow, good eye. Yeah, it’s widely unaccepted as a modern method. This used to be commonplace. I definitely prefer to extend and put the backup close. I don’t know what I was doing that day. But, honestly good eye bro!
nice job
Heavy climber here, wich one as the stiffest sole? To help my little calves on steep ice climbing wi5?
Both have a solid shank. I wouldn’t be concerned with either on WI5. I’d care more about the length of your approaches. If you have long approaches, the LS may hold up better over time. The sole is known to be considerably stronger. Ideally, you’d try both because that’s not enough of a reason to go LS if it’s not comfortable. Sorry about your little calves 😂.
Thanks! I’m working on them 🥲…😂
I wish Scarpa would have moved to BOA. That lacing system on Phantoms is dreadful. Never had issues with the system, but I do carry a spare all the time just in case. The opening is also very narrow and not the easiest to get in/out. The sole on G5 is certainly more durable. After 5 seasons is still life in mine. The waterproofing though is a let down. With the recent global warming and + temps when snow/ice starts to melt there is always moisture going in. I also prefer the fully stiff sole on G5. There is so much flex in the Phantom. I agree with the fit being more generous in G5, though I was expecting a tighter fit on the so called "technical fit" on Phantoms.
If I could have the sole unit, fit, stiffness, insulation and BOA from G5 with the outer shell of a Phantom tech.. perfect boot for me.
I walked through stream with water above ankles and I stayed dry in g5 evo... just fyi
Good review. It seems like a PNW biased review so that should be made clear because the advice given is not appropriate for the Rockies where dry cold snow and creek crossings are the norm.
ᑭᖇOᗰOᔕᗰ 😞