Great vid again Mr O. Torque install procedures from 2007 Factory Service Manual: Ball joint pinch bolt 53 +/- 7 ft-lbs. "The part indicated by **indicates parts which should be temporarily tightened, and then fully tightened with the vehicle standing on the ground and the curb weight condition. **Control arm front and rear mount bolts/nuts 82 +/- 7 ft-lbs". Stay gold.
Thanks for the specs - been looking everywhere - don't have the service manual - finishing the job now on both sides of my '09 - this video was excellent.
@@keithwalkley5515 did you have a clip with some linkage attached to it on the top of your passenger side lower control arm? I have one there and I don't know what it is and I can't find the part anywhere but mine broke so now I cannot connect the link it back to it I've looked up every possible and I cannot find this clip that bolts down through one of the holes in Lower control arm
I think mine just rotted off at the rear as well. Turned left. Snap sound from front end. Steering went wonky and tire cambered in at the top. Time for some Moog in my life! Thanks for these videos!
Great video, seems to be easier on this 2nd gen Outlander than on my first gen because on the first gen with the 2.4 engine you can't take the bolt in the front out due to the oilfilter being in the way, so whenever you have to change the passenger side lower control arm you will also need to do an oilservice as you will have to remove the oilfilter to get the damn bolt out. The only other way would be to slightly drop the whole front subframe to get that bolt out.
thank you, just did this job on my lancer (same procedure and part) you really helped me out. also, I just ended up jacking the knuckle up when it came time to torque the bolts. so it wouldn't twerk the bushings
@@mickeymouse2456 Yes, I have done this job multiple times (my car eats balljoints) I'm good at it now but it takes about an hour per side. Jack and Jack stands
@@DaDaDo661 lol! Your car eats ball joints. You have to avoid the moon craters on the road! I was trying to see if you get good leverage to pull this thing off on a jack, lower to the ground or if it's easier to get it off on a lift
I see AZ sells the control arm bushings separate but for the ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm with bushing and ball joint preinstalled. RA sells both the bushings and ball joints separate though. Is it possible to just replace the bushing and ball joint in my existing control arm or would that be too difficult or require specialty tools or something? Am i better off just getting the whole new control arm? Any input would be appreciated. Thx
@@patrickirwin4827 it's going to be much easier to replace the entire control arm and not much more expensive. The only downside to the entire control arm is that no manufacturer offers a ball joint with a grease fitting. The only way you can get that is if you buy the ball joint separately from RA. I think having the grease fitting will extend the life of that ball joint. I haven't tried just replacing the balljoint but it seems like it just presses in with a ball joint press. It's a fairly easy job to do the entire control arm, . The only thing he doesn't show in this video is that you need to torque all the bolts with the knuckle jacked up or the car on the ground/not on jackstands (which is impossible without a lift) it's just easier to put a jack under the knuckle . I'm still doing ball joints every year on this thing lol let me know if you have any questions
Great video I used this to help me replace my control arm and ball joint, one critique, though.. you should have showed what the ball joint is supposed to look like when it's "completely pushed up. That nipple in the half circle goes in the knuckle and then the half circle is supposed to be squished into a cylinder like shape
Surprised I have not seen you do a video on the lower control arm bushings on the Azteks, Impalas and such with the bushings that tear from those. Those are cake work as well!
I bought moog control arms for my 09 lancer, after 10k they started make clunking noise It was the ball joint that goes to the knuckle Well I learned my lesson once again if you are cheap sucker you’ll pay twice Buy OEM save money and time
You know that is the crazy thing. These vehicles, all Dodge cars, Chevy cars and a few Fords fail so fast you can't change the bushings fast enough but then you look at the same exact design on a Subaru or Honda and it will have 300,000 miles on it and original bushings!?!?
I noticed you use a lot of moog stuff in your repairs. Is it because of availability or is it good? I have to do a lot of suspension work on my 03 accord. Going for KYB quick struts, skunk2 upper control arm for camber adjustment mine is out of spec (+1.7 camber), and moog lower ball joint? Also considering moog adjustable rear upper control arm to fix positive rear camber as well.
I see AZ sells the control arm bushings separate but for the ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm with bushing and ball joint preinstalled. RA sells both the bushings and ball joints separate though. Is it possible to just replace the bushing and ball joint in my existing control arm or would that be too difficult or require specialty tools or something? Am i better off just getting the whole new control arm? Any input would be appreciated. Thx.
The video was great. I have a 2009 Outlander. And I have a few questions for you. Can this be done with a set of jacks stands? And do you think that you need to change both left and right side lower, also the tie rods and upper ball joint. I’m asking to avoid having to have multiple front end alligments I was always told that you need an alignment when you change any ball joints.
Hello there SMC!! Been watching your vids for years! Your A/C videos really helped me alot, thank you! Came across a 2016 Outlander Sport with a supposed "trailer arm" issue that requires it to be replaced. I've started researching this model and it's suspension is different than I'm used to. Do you have any experience with replacing a "trailer arm"? If so, know where I can find this part other than the dealer? Doubt it, but thought I'd ask you.
Great Video, I thought the control arm and the ball joint should be replaced, all at once. Also, when it is describe as right or left, which side does it mean, Drive or Pass
My 05 Cobalt has a very similar control arm, they make these parts basically for nothing, Pain in the ass to do as a do it yourself kinda of repair person lol.
I am in the middle of replacing that lower control arm on an 04 Outlander and that horizontal front bolt is seized to the sleeve. I am turning breaker bars and it moves the entire control arm. I can't see a way to cut it out. It is a nightmare.
hey I may have found the answer before you reply but worth a try, when doing a ball joint on the outlander must you do a wheel alignment, I'm confident I can do the Job for my gf,but the workshop in BC said it was needed..my head tells me nothing to do with the alignment is affected by the replacing of the control arm..any info appreciated
That depends on weather the car has had a alignment since the bushings started to go bad. If it has never had a alignment, it would be at or real close to factory settings. But any alignment after that would have set it up to a false set of circumstances.
I have a 2003 outlander that vibrates in the front when I'm cruising at about 40mph. I've been told it's not a transmission issue but no one can tell me anything else. It almost sounds and feels like I'm going over deep rumble strips. Could this be the issue? Thanks!
I had it to a transmission shop and they said it wasn't the transmission but couldn't figure out anything else so I took it back to my regular mechanic. He, for some reason, was having a hard time replicating the problem. Sometimes the noise/rattle, doesn't show up. It's usually when I'm driving at a steady speed, around 40 or 45 mph. I tried to see if it happens more when I turn toward the right or left, but that seems inconclusive.
Sounds like a tough problem to duplicate, I would say if you can get it to do it consistently I would encourage you to take your mechanic for a ride to demonstrate what it is doing and what the conditions are to make it happen.
I got a 2003 outlander also, first thing I had to change was the transmission mount, a couple of years later both ball joints ( this is fixed to the control arm so the whole arm will have to be changed). Or your wheel just need balancing. The baby still run great though. after 13 years I consider that low maintenance.
@@g3o5d eh not really too bad , a little unnecessary and inconvenient but its just that portion of the intake and few other little components that need to be moved. still I'm charging $350 for that kinda of job lol
Fwiw not possible without air tools....I tried cause I didn't feel like going to my shop where the compressor etc were.. no luck with the front bolt, had toget my impact involved. North Eastern car....maybe a southern car would be easier.
I have an '07 Mit Outlander. Very little rust . . . but I wash it every 2-3 weeks, year round. About $225/yr, 158K miles, still runs great. Very happy with it.
what a supid design, so this it maybe the problem on my old new outlander, was checking the ratteling rods (stabilizer link arms) but no those are good, ball jonint to, but i did not check theese, as they usaly only fail at verry high age or milage, but this was a new one!! yeah why don't we just turn the bushing 90 degree so it just can fall of, im sure there was 2-3 designers to figure this out. an i am sure theese control arms cost extra for paying all the designers. mitsubishi if you turn the bushings the correct way, and making better ratteling rods+ put some paint on it, and protecion under it, this may be a good car. AND don't connect the entire car to the stereo, as somone may swap it to a stereo that don't use a c64 cpu.
@1:59 Why do that Eric, when a small chisel used as a wedge does better and doesn't screw up ball joint boot, in this case won't matter, but changing axle and bearings saves those boots and extra cost on customers, just a more you know deal
Major airline lead mech. 33 years here, excellent job with none of the fluff.
Who the heck would give this vid a thumbs down!?!? Thanks for making it!
Great vid again Mr O.
Torque install procedures from 2007 Factory Service Manual: Ball joint pinch bolt 53 +/- 7 ft-lbs.
"The part indicated by **indicates parts which should be temporarily tightened, and then fully tightened with the vehicle standing on the ground and the curb weight condition. **Control arm front and rear mount bolts/nuts 82 +/- 7 ft-lbs".
Stay gold.
Thanks for the specs - been looking everywhere - don't have the service manual - finishing the job now on both sides of my '09 - this video was excellent.
Dude! I hope your gonna have a very nice weekend! THANK YOU!!!
@@keithwalkley5515 did you have a clip with some linkage attached to it on the top of your passenger side lower control arm? I have one there and I don't know what it is and I can't find the part anywhere but mine broke so now I cannot connect the link it back to it I've looked up every possible and I cannot find this clip that bolts down through one of the holes in Lower control arm
Thanks for sharing brother. Reduced a 300 euro bill down to 32 euro. Thats a win.
I think mine just rotted off at the rear as well. Turned left. Snap sound from front end. Steering went wonky and tire cambered in at the top. Time for some Moog in my life! Thanks for these videos!
Thats a pretty solid tutorial!! 5/5 Straight to the point!
thank you so much for this one, gave my Husband the confidence to tackle it. He was disappointed by how stupid easy it was.
+TheDesertrat09 Oh cool, glad it worked out!
.. disappointed bc he has to do it now?😳
Not in the least. he's happy to become a Blackthumb
Thank you very much. I appreciate the video. I thought it might be a pretty straight forward job, you showed me that it actually is. GRAVY JOB 👍🏻
Great video, seems to be easier on this 2nd gen Outlander than on my first gen because on the first gen with the 2.4 engine you can't take the bolt in the front out due to the oilfilter being in the way, so whenever you have to change the passenger side lower control arm you will also need to do an oilservice as you will have to remove the oilfilter to get the damn bolt out. The only other way would be to slightly drop the whole front subframe to get that bolt out.
Great Job I hope all the repairs on this 03 are as easy as you just made that look. Well, here goes..
Thank you sir,my 07 Mitsubishi is making the same noise,great job,appreciated
About to change both Lower Control Arms on my '07 Outlander. 208200 miles.
thank you, just did this job on my lancer (same procedure and part) you really helped me out. also, I just ended up jacking the knuckle up when it came time to torque the bolts. so it wouldn't twerk the bushings
So you did this off a jack with jack stands instead of a lift?
@@mickeymouse2456
Yes, I have done this job multiple times (my car eats balljoints) I'm good at it now but it takes about an hour per side. Jack and Jack stands
@@DaDaDo661 lol! Your car eats ball joints. You have to avoid the moon craters on the road! I was trying to see if you get good leverage to pull this thing off on a jack, lower to the ground or if it's easier to get it off on a lift
I see AZ sells the control arm bushings separate but for the ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm with bushing and ball joint preinstalled. RA sells both the bushings and ball joints separate though. Is it possible to just replace the bushing and ball joint in my existing control arm or would that be too difficult or require specialty tools or something? Am i better off just getting the whole new control arm? Any input would be appreciated. Thx
@@patrickirwin4827 it's going to be much easier to replace the entire control arm and not much more expensive. The only downside to the entire control arm is that no manufacturer offers a ball joint with a grease fitting. The only way you can get that is if you buy the ball joint separately from RA. I think having the grease fitting will extend the life of that ball joint. I haven't tried just replacing the balljoint but it seems like it just presses in with a ball joint press. It's a fairly easy job to do the entire control arm, . The only thing he doesn't show in this video is that you need to torque all the bolts with the knuckle jacked up or the car on the ground/not on jackstands (which is impossible without a lift) it's just easier to put a jack under the knuckle . I'm still doing ball joints every year on this thing lol let me know if you have any questions
Excellent information Sir!
Thanks much from Alaska.
Cheers
Great video I used this to help me replace my control arm and ball joint, one critique, though.. you should have showed what the ball joint is supposed to look like when it's "completely pushed up. That nipple in the half circle goes in the knuckle and then the half circle is supposed to be squished into a cylinder like shape
Loved the lesson 👌✔️
Surprised I have not seen you do a video on the lower control arm bushings on the Azteks, Impalas and such with the bushings that tear from those. Those are cake work as well!
Thanks for the tips its gonna be easy ihope my wife has a Outlander needs control arms.
Good job. I have the Pug 4007, basically the same car.
Awesome video and informative!!!
Love the lesson 👌👊
Very easy, thanks. My next job
Thanks Eric my wife has one of these ill check to see how there riding to see if they replaced 👍🏻
Thanks for the video, if the ball joint is bad can it be replace whit out replacing all the control arm ?
nice video but please tell also the torque for each bolt so it can be easy for us.
thank you for your valuable advice,,, reeeally important,
I bought moog control arms for my 09 lancer, after 10k they started make clunking noise
It was the ball joint that goes to the knuckle
Well I learned my lesson once again if you are cheap sucker you’ll pay twice
Buy OEM save money and time
Thanks for the vid, those vertical bushings suck, they will eventually fail, while the horizontal ones won't
You know that is the crazy thing. These vehicles, all Dodge cars, Chevy cars and a few Fords fail so fast you can't change the bushings fast enough but then you look at the same exact design on a Subaru or Honda and it will have 300,000 miles on it and original bushings!?!?
@@SouthMainAuto I have had two Mitsubishis, a Diamante and now an Endeavor, both 350,000 plus miles before original bushing change out.
Thanks for a useful info!
Just got parts today, can't wait till tomorrow, to get started, anyone can do it.
Nice and easy!
Your got the stuff!
I noticed you use a lot of moog stuff in your repairs. Is it because of availability or is it good? I have to do a lot of suspension work on my 03 accord. Going for KYB quick struts, skunk2 upper control arm for camber adjustment mine is out of spec (+1.7 camber), and moog lower ball joint? Also considering moog adjustable rear upper control arm to fix positive rear camber as well.
Nice easy Job Eric O Good video these older videos I've been binge-watching just so entertaining while I'm editing @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Thanks for the video.
are you able to replace JUST the lower ball joint on the 06 outlander or do you have to replace the entire arm
THATS ONE BAD BOY TOOL ERIC
I see AZ sells the control arm bushings separate but for the ball joint you have to buy the whole control arm with bushing and ball joint preinstalled. RA sells both the bushings and ball joints separate though. Is it possible to just replace the bushing and ball joint in my existing control arm or would that be too difficult or require specialty tools or something? Am i better off just getting the whole new control arm? Any input would be appreciated. Thx.
I just ended up getting the whole control arm
The video was great. I have a 2009 Outlander. And I have a few questions for you.
Can this be done with a set of jacks stands? And do you think that you need to change both left and right side lower, also the tie rods and upper ball joint. I’m asking to avoid having to have multiple front end alligments I was always told that you need an alignment when you change any ball joints.
Torque specs on those bad boys?
Thanks dude.
Hello there SMC!! Been watching your vids for years! Your A/C videos really helped me alot, thank you! Came across a 2016 Outlander Sport with a supposed "trailer arm" issue that requires it to be replaced. I've started researching this model and it's suspension is different than I'm used to. Do you have any experience with replacing a "trailer arm"? If so, know where I can find this part other than the dealer? Doubt it, but thought I'd ask you.
Great Video, I thought the control arm and the ball joint should be replaced, all at once. Also, when it is describe as right or left, which side does it mean, Drive or Pass
Left and Right = referenced from sitting in the drivers seat of the car, facing forward.
Stay gold.
What are the specs on the bolts and thanks for the video my outlander does the same thing
My 05 Cobalt has a very similar control arm, they make these parts basically for nothing, Pain in the ass to do as a do it yourself kinda of repair person lol.
Shoot some of these are a pain for mechanics too :)
Great job! Hey how do you reset app travel sensor on the 06 outlander.
Hey bud I have a issue with the bottom ball joint the nuts not coming out should I have not removed the other two nuts cause I did
Would it be a bad idea to spray all the joints with a penetrating spray to help loosen it all?
would you do a video on how to change the spark plugs on a Mitsubishi Outlander 2011
thank you very much
Do you think this is more difficult using a jack with jack stands?
Looks almost identical to the 08 Lancer, they don't future and upper ball joint?
Does the bolts need torgued back up with the car loaded?
Where did u get the red separater tool? and good video too
I am in the middle of replacing that lower control arm on an 04 Outlander and that horizontal front bolt is seized to the sleeve. I am turning breaker bars and it moves the entire control arm. I can't see a way to cut it out. It is a nightmare.
I have an outlander that someone stripped out the front bolt on the control arm and I can't get to the nut do they make bolts to replace it
hey I may have found the answer before you reply but worth a try, when doing a ball joint on the outlander must you do a wheel alignment, I'm confident I can do the Job for my gf,but the workshop in BC said it was needed..my head tells me nothing to do with the alignment is affected by the replacing of the control arm..any info appreciated
That depends on weather the car has had a alignment since the bushings started to go bad.
If it has never had a alignment, it would be at or real close to factory settings. But any alignment after that would have set it up to a false set of circumstances.
Thanks for the tips. But a little to dark movie!
Great video, short and too the point! Do you have the torque specs btw?
guttentight! lol
The specs are different for different vehicles.
If you can't find them, look up the bolt specs and give it a little less than max. 💪
good job.
I have a 2003 outlander that vibrates in the front when I'm cruising at about 40mph. I've been told it's not a transmission issue but no one can tell me anything else. It almost sounds and feels like I'm going over deep rumble strips. Could this be the issue? Thanks!
Michelle Jenson Have you had it to a shop yet?
I had it to a transmission shop and they said it wasn't the transmission but couldn't figure out anything else so I took it back to my regular mechanic. He, for some reason, was having a hard time replicating the problem. Sometimes the noise/rattle, doesn't show up. It's usually when I'm driving at a steady speed, around 40 or 45 mph. I tried to see if it happens more when I turn toward the right or left, but that seems inconclusive.
Sounds like a tough problem to duplicate, I would say if you can get it to do it consistently I would encourage you to take your mechanic for a ride to demonstrate what it is doing and what the conditions are to make it happen.
Thanks. That's what I think is going to have to happen.
I got a 2003 outlander also, first thing I had to change was the transmission mount, a couple of years later both ball joints ( this is fixed to the control arm so the whole arm will have to be changed). Or your wheel just need balancing. The baby still run great though. after 13 years I consider that low maintenance.
do you have to get a wheel alignment after replace the control arm
+Luis Martel you should yes
Thank you very much I really enjoy your videos I'm sure you help a bunch of people tnx
Luis diaz 8
Классное видео! Мы тоже обзоры снимаем. Зацените..
can u sent a image of your special tool to desperate the ball joint.
These outlanders have to be some of the easiest cars to work on.
Except the rear Spark Plugs. They are a pain to get to. ('07-'09) They changed access after '09.
They are easier than most cars, you can do almost every thing your self.
@@g3o5d eh not really too bad , a little unnecessary and inconvenient but its just that portion of the intake and few other little components that need to be moved. still I'm charging $350 for that kinda of job lol
haha, love it. especialy because of his asshole comments, yes, i do it tomorrow on a gravel lots, with no lift or airtools. lets go.
i have the same model. is the ball joint removable or i will have to change the control arm??
Fwiw not possible without air tools....I tried cause I didn't feel like going to my shop where the compressor etc were.. no luck with the front bolt, had toget my impact involved. North Eastern car....maybe a southern car would be easier.
Where to find torque specifications for control arm bushing bolts
No need to torque. Just need to be tight. Give em a pinch with a breaker bar.
Know an American company that makes fronts that will fit a 2008?
I beilive there is no thread on the end of the bolt pounched in 1.30 time. Becouse if there is one possibly it does not exist any more now.
What's the size on the bolt with no nut?
How is it that a car that old doesn't have a ton of rust all over❓
I have an '07 Mit Outlander. Very little rust . . . but I wash it every 2-3 weeks, year round. About $225/yr, 158K miles, still runs great. Very happy with it.
must b cheap bushing to pop out that easy
what a supid design, so this it maybe the problem on my old new outlander, was checking the ratteling rods (stabilizer link arms) but no those are good, ball jonint to, but i did not check theese, as they usaly only fail at verry high age or milage, but this was a new one!! yeah why don't we just turn the bushing 90 degree so it just can fall of, im sure there was 2-3 designers to figure this out. an i am sure theese control arms cost extra for paying all the designers. mitsubishi if you turn the bushings the correct way, and making better ratteling rods+ put some paint on it, and protecion under it, this may be a good car. AND don't connect the entire car to the stereo, as somone may swap it to a stereo that don't use a c64 cpu.
This mits outlander whath good engine v6 or 2.4 and whath year are best 2007 and up
@1:59 Why do that Eric, when a small chisel used as a wedge does better and doesn't screw up ball joint boot, in this case won't matter, but changing axle and bearings saves those boots and extra cost on customers, just a more you know deal
Could the same thing happening to my 2008 Lancer?
Have problems with clunking noises