I love the fact that you're open to your employees with the money side of the projects it makes it so they know their value & that is priceless. They will work harder & smarter.
When my place was upgraded to 200A, the electrician cut the triplex at the weatherhead, stripped back the utility side conductors, and connected his extension cord to them. Nowadays, I'd suggest a Bluetti or an Ecoflow for temp power instead.
Put the conduit back in the bender for the second bend, then level the bender (and conduit in the bender). With slight pressure on the conduit, level the remaining section of conduit sticking out of the bender. This will eliminate ‘dog leg’.
Could bent the pipe before pulling power. I was liking your videos till I seen this one. You have a lot to learn. Your a great business man hands down.
your temp power cord would benefit from some clamps to just clip onto the terminals and never need to remove them. you can get some 20 or 30 amp ones from an auto parts store - not that you need the amperage, but the clamps open wider. I've got a long suicide cord like that so you can clamp to overhead wires should you ever need to
I use a product for sleep that I get at Costco. It’s called sleep aid by Kirkland. Works very well. No hangover or residual effects. Gently fall asleep and turn off that busy mind.
4:00 - Why not just buy a 2" offset conduit riser already made? They sell them at electrical supply stores. They come in 7' lengths, but you can add a coupling and nipple as needed to increase height if necessary.
Use a anti dog. Use Ram travel. This pipe bending was pretty bad man. And get a pair of alligator clips on a #12 awg cord with a inline fuse. You can bug off the wire at the weather head for temp power.
@@ElectricProAcademy I’ve bent a ton of conduit and was taught by a lot of old timers that worked in steel mills. When that Cylinder ram comes out and starts to bend the conduit for the desired degree you can measure it. Example. If the Ram comes out 5” for a 30 degree bend, every time you bend the pipe just measure with a stick rule, 5” for a 30 degree bend. You’ll have to use a protractor the first time to find degree and amount of Ram travel for desired degree It’s super accurate. The anti-dog keeps the conduit bent on the same plane. So before you start bending , put it on the end of conduit make sure you’re anti dog is level, bend conduit then release pressure on Ram. Rotate 180 degrees level the conduit. Now bend. Your pipe will be bent in the same plane and won’t have a dogleg. Google anti dog you’ll see it, and there are videos on you tube I’m sure using one.
Maybe in a couple three years those ford e-transits or something like that will be available enough that you can run equip fleet with them and not worry about shore power when taking off the meter.
What kind of amperage does that bender draw? I would be willing to bet that a truck-mounted inverter would benefit your employees greatly. You could even do a couple isolated deep-cycle batteries on the trucks so they wouldn’t have to idle the truck or risk killing the starting battery.
I have a 1500 watt gfci inverter with a deep cell battery connected to a relay then to my starting battery. Relay only connects when engine is running to charge deep cell. I have enough power to run my large Makita rotary drill (1/2 hp).
Carry a pre-wired "cheater" cord. To obtain power from just about anywhere a panel or piece of electrical gear was located (rooftop HVAC units / crawlspace / alley / equipment room / etc.) I used to take 20' of 12/3 SO cable and run it onto a deep aluminum "bell" box w/GFCI and in-use weather resistant cover. On the unterminated end, I used to use industrial grade inline fuseholders with 10 or 15a slow-blow (delayed) fuse. Occasionally, we would even attach high quality, medium size alligator clamps after the fuse. Not the most clever concept or safest OR code compliant, but it kept me as safe as possible between the overcurrent device AND GFCI. I got the idea after the most evil crew of hardwood floor installers decided to pull temp power for their sanders/buffers from the service I had just installed. They used extremely poor quality Chinesium made "vehicle type jumper cables" with massive UNINSULATED alligator clamps. On the other end, they had simply fed both phases ("red" and "black" LOL) into a 2 liter empty soda bottle where the wires were "terminated" and connected to 2x female twistlock receptacles, generously taped and insulated with 3m blue masking tape. The power equipment was then plugged into the receptacles. When the clowns attempted to connect to utility power, they pulled the panelboard cover and attempted to clip the alligator clamps to the live phase lugs feeding this 200a 40ckt SquareD QO panel. BOOM ! They had shaky hands and the shaking got worse after their first try at arc welding. Great channel., It';s enjoyed by quite a few friends. Thanks.,
Not sure whether you have tried the cup of water trick when driving ground rods. That trick has helped me plenty in the past when driving ground rods, especially when it is dry ground - pour a cup of water or two down the hole once you have started it a couple of inches down and it acts as a lubricant when driving the rod further down. For the waking up during the night and not being able to sleep well - read a book before going to bed - preferably not work-related to give your mind something else to think about and let you sleep - else you'll burn up way too young, ask me how I know :)
Isn't illegal to attach before the meter? Anyway surely it's dangerous, why not use a portable generator or this days a portable battery to power the equipment? That equipment is also not protected, a short in the equipment will make it explode, since the only overcurrent protection is the fuses on the primary side of the transformer (so a fault can pass hundreds of amps in the appliance and the cord).
In general penetrations of 3R enclosures (without the benefit of a "waterproof" thing like a hub) are in lower part of the enclosure. If the top of your penetration is above the lowest terminal then you have violated the design.
No insulated tools, no rubber insulation mats, no suitable protective wear, not even an appropriate electrical tester at hand, nothing... Why does a TH-cam Channel called "Electric Pro Academy" promote such dangerous work practices? It's not cool to work next to virtually unfused live meter conductors like that! Man! You are a role model! Do I miss something? Is this intended to be ironic or something?
Hey man there's no sense in working on live gear and not having insulated tools. The lack of VDE tools being used in North America when I worked there blew my mind.
@Jordan Lewis yeah man and him not even wearing eye or arc protection of any type. I bring a small genie too if I have to bust any holes or that. If this is how they teach their employees how to work then they're dicing with death.
@@munsters2actually I was talking about the hot ungrounded conductor that is ran from the right bottom side of the meter base to the disconnect. How would that wire be bent to connect into the lug? Would it be bent there at the bottom or would it be looped around the top right, go across the top, come down and then loop around the bottom into the lug? I wanted to see what that looked like.
@@speednutsII Sorry, I can't help you with that. Yeah, it's too bad parts of the project are missing, but I guess when you are busy working, you don't have time to record everything.
An air gap of 1/4" is required in the code between metal equipment and wet locations, however electrical equipment has the 1/4" built into the mounting holes. The 1/4" plywood thing has gotten traction as a way to satisfy that code, but the manufacturers came up with another way.
I love what you did there with hooking that up... I know what you did there too, except for one thing I am confused about. It seems you had the ground and neutral together. Wouldn't that make a false ground ? Also, wouldn't it behoove you to instead make up a cord or an old pair of battery jumper cables rigged to a J Box with an electric socket, so you don't have to worry about creating a massive arc or literally screwing around with live wires ? I don't know that the plastic or the enamel coating traditional jumpers are sufficient enough to insulate you from 120 volts or even 240 should you need it, but surely you can fashion something and have leather gloves insulated with non conductive rubber. I might even go as far as magnetizing my J box and using a GFCI so that it is fully grounded and you can plug something in without worrying about it falling into a puddle and protecting you. Just a thought though. Also, having lived in houses that have been flipped, I wish the flippers would have hired a pro for electrical. I can't tell you how many times I have taken down a ceiling and opened up open air splices. Not even a wire nut on them. Just the wires left bare and not even stapled to the rafters and in one case, someone stapled the bare copper wires to the rafters. I was a kid and got into a HUGE argument with Mother about how unsafe that was and again she said to me "I wish I could buy just ONE house that you didn't have to rewire." I was like "Me too, Mother. Me too." When I can't sleep because my brain won't turn off, I make some chamomile tea and I write down everything that's going through my mind. A journal. I used an account book or composition notebook before computers came along and now, I journal in a computer. Sometimes I do both. Writing on paper vs typing on a computer produces different results so you have to find what works best for you, maybe even do both. This way, it's written down, you know it's there subconsciously and your brain doesn't have to worry about it anymore, because it's documented. Sleep, enough REM i crucial to staying fit, feeling well, and actually being healthy.
What's a "false ground"? The groundING conductor is connected to the groundED conductor at the first means of disconnect anyway. He just did it without a disconnect.
Electric work shouldn't be stressful for hpusr flippers in Indiana. They have to hire professionals. You can only get a self permit for you main residence in Indiana. So much of the house flipping work needs contractors in Indiana. So not as profitable as other states. I added a subpanel and several Afci/gfci circuits in my basement with perfect inspection passes thanks to your channel and others.
We need to remember, that to take on such a project requires know how, skill and knowledge of your area's electrical code. Such changes or renovations to electrical installations are best left to the licensed, electricians for many reasons. Your home insurance will not cover your renovations if you fail to have them inspected by a official.
Hey man, after watching the video and thinking about it some more, I’d say your trade is similar to my profession is a lot of ways. I’m a pharmacist in a hospital. Very high risk, zero room for mistakes. You’ve got to find time to rest and recharge. I can see you’re spread a bit thin and when that happens we start to take unnecessary risks or circumvent safety practices. We all have limits. I think especially in your profession, you do not want to test them. Just my two cents.
Thanks for sharing that Stephen. I’ve taken a page from Loren Rickey’s book and I’m using a very gentle sleep aide when my busy mind won’t shut off to help get a full 7-8 uninterrupted hours of shuteye. It’s been a great move to utilize occasionally without any side effects.
@@ElectricProAcademy right on man. I find with my busy schedule carving out time in my to do lists for myself and my family has done wonders in taking my mind off of work
@@skyemac8 once you go with REAL tools, from Knipex, Whia, Wera, all others are unfit for duty, there is a big difference, just the way they fit in your hand, comfort, and superior durability in the materials they use. Like WAGO lever nuts versus obsolete wire nut, twist on connectors, once you go WAGO, screw, screw on connectors
@@skyemac8 once you go with REAL tools, from Knipex, Whia, Wera, all others are unfit for duty, there is a big difference, just the way they fit in your hand, comfort, and superior durability in the materials they use. Like WAGO lever nuts versus obsolete wire nut, twist on connectors, once you go WAGO, screw, screw on connectors
Joel. Don't waste time unscrewing breaker terminal screws, just cut the wires close to the breakers. Just get that old panel out as fast as possible. When I was doing that kind of work, we did not have the luxury to dilley-dalley. House flippers are generally cheap-asses. Thanks, Russ, 28 years in the trade
To everyone saying he's stealing power. The utility doesn't care. It's like 2 cents. They would be more concerned with his cord trick but really the end of the wire will act as the fuse if shit went south and it's his life to live. Everyone has worked under the "do as I say not as I do" guy.
Mr. Waldsmen I find this video highly upsetting because you are showing people how to perform a dangerous act. I enjoy watching you work but as licensed electrical contractor I take issue with you cutting the service conductors. The work you were doing is not worth someone untrained being killed performing. I like your hustle but leave this sort of thing off the tube.
You don't know the simple math, or how to use a 'no-dog' for conduit bending. You're ignorant to better methods for tapping into the line side for temp-power, yet are aware they exist, which is willful ignorance and dangerous. You failed to safe-off the exposed conductors after making those connections and then proceeded to stand next to the open shell with a piece of conductive material in your hands. This is behavior I would find unacceptable from a second-year apprentice, and most people would intuitively feel uneasy in the presence of someone who shows such little respect for the energy with which you're working. You're attempting to teach using a platform you should be employing to learn before you kill or injure yourself or someone else. Invest in a good generator, or maybe a Chicago bender as well as some classes if you want a future in the trade, or just a future in general.
Wrong. Code violation. Can’t come into your disconnect above the breaker like that. Need a meyers hub.
You're right. I noticed that on the re-watch. Any time a penetration is made at or above live parts the code requires a weather proof hub.
I love the fact that you're open to your employees with the money side of the projects it makes it so they know their value & that is priceless. They will work harder & smarter.
When my place was upgraded to 200A, the electrician cut the triplex at the weatherhead, stripped back the utility side conductors, and connected his extension cord to them. Nowadays, I'd suggest a Bluetti or an Ecoflow for temp power instead.
Put the conduit back in the bender for the second bend, then level the bender (and conduit in the bender). With slight pressure on the conduit, level the remaining section of conduit sticking out of the bender. This will eliminate ‘dog leg’.
Is the Satellite Dish to close to the service Head ?
Could bent the pipe before pulling power. I was liking your videos till I seen this one. You have a lot to learn. Your a great business man hands down.
I have a ton to learn-it's outrageous
bending pipe yes, but a hard job to replace a service while still using it.
your temp power cord would benefit from some clamps to just clip onto the terminals and never need to remove them. you can get some 20 or 30 amp ones from an auto parts store - not that you need the amperage, but the clamps open wider. I've got a long suicide cord like that so you can clamp to overhead wires should you ever need to
I was thinking same thing. That's what I use alligator clips on S.O. cord with GFCI on other end.
Dude, your nuts. I would bring a little generator for a bender.
Your channel is entertaining though.
good idea, i would not be jumping an extension cord onto the main feed lol. just asking for a arc flash.
I use a product for sleep that I get at Costco. It’s called sleep aid by Kirkland. Works very well. No hangover or residual effects. Gently fall asleep and turn off that busy mind.
Are you in business for yourself Loren? Thanks for the advice.
@@ElectricProAcademy retired. Jack of all trades.
4:00 - Why not just buy a 2" offset conduit riser already made? They sell them at electrical supply stores. They come in 7' lengths, but you can add a coupling and nipple as needed to increase height if necessary.
That's really interesting. I've never seen or heard of pre-made IMC off-sets. Thank you for that tip and I'll be looking into it.
You don't have generators in your country?
:-)
Use a anti dog. Use Ram travel. This pipe bending was pretty bad man. And get a pair of alligator clips on a #12 awg cord with a inline fuse. You can bug off the wire at the weather head for temp power.
I've never heard of an anti dog or Ram travel. Can you explain that further?
@@ElectricProAcademy I’ve bent a ton of conduit and was taught by a lot of old timers that worked in steel mills.
When that Cylinder ram comes out and starts to bend the conduit for the desired degree you can measure it. Example. If the Ram comes out 5” for a 30 degree bend, every time you bend the pipe just measure with a stick rule, 5” for a 30 degree bend. You’ll have to use a protractor the first time to find degree and amount of Ram travel for desired degree It’s super accurate.
The anti-dog keeps the conduit bent on the same plane. So before you start bending , put it on the end of conduit make sure you’re anti dog is level, bend conduit then release pressure on Ram. Rotate 180 degrees level the conduit. Now bend. Your pipe will be bent in the same plane and won’t have a dogleg. Google anti dog you’ll see it, and there are videos on you tube I’m sure using one.
Maybe in a couple three years those ford e-transits or something like that will be available enough that you can run equip fleet with them and not worry about shore power when taking off the meter.
Yeah! What's the point of electric vehicles if you can't get some power out of them!!?
That has to be in our near future. I agree
What kind of amperage does that bender draw? I would be willing to bet that a truck-mounted inverter would benefit your employees greatly. You could even do a couple isolated deep-cycle batteries on the trucks so they wouldn’t have to idle the truck or risk killing the starting battery.
I have a 1500 watt gfci inverter with a deep cell battery connected to a relay then to my starting battery. Relay only connects when engine is running to charge deep cell. I have enough power to run my large Makita rotary drill (1/2 hp).
I would bet a 2200watt generator would save a life in this situation…how in the world can this be standard practice….
I would be careful about drilling a hole for your conduit in a 3R rated disconnect. You might just be removing the 3R rating of the box.
I’ve had to call in so many for doing this. You could do the same by using load side lugs and plug in meter
I have a question why didn't you used fully insulated screwdrivers (1:30)
Truth is that I'm not always as careful as one should be. :-(
Carry a pre-wired "cheater" cord. To obtain power from just about anywhere a panel or piece of electrical gear was located (rooftop HVAC units / crawlspace / alley / equipment room / etc.) I used to take 20' of 12/3 SO cable and run it onto a deep aluminum "bell" box w/GFCI and in-use weather resistant cover. On the unterminated end, I used to use industrial grade inline fuseholders with 10 or 15a slow-blow (delayed) fuse. Occasionally, we would even attach high quality, medium size alligator clamps after the fuse.
Not the most clever concept or safest OR code compliant, but it kept me as safe as possible between the overcurrent device AND GFCI.
I got the idea after the most evil crew of hardwood floor installers decided to pull temp power for their sanders/buffers from the service I had just installed. They used extremely poor quality Chinesium made "vehicle type jumper cables" with massive UNINSULATED alligator clamps. On the other end, they had simply fed both phases ("red" and "black" LOL) into a 2 liter empty soda bottle where the wires were "terminated" and connected to 2x female twistlock receptacles, generously taped and insulated with 3m blue masking tape. The power equipment was then plugged into the receptacles. When the clowns attempted to connect to utility power, they pulled the panelboard cover and attempted to clip the alligator clamps to the live phase lugs feeding this 200a 40ckt SquareD QO panel. BOOM ! They had shaky hands and the shaking got worse after their first try at arc welding.
Great channel., It';s enjoyed by quite a few friends.
Thanks.,
Joel , my favorite Trician ... Good vid as usual with good explanation of what your doing ...On to the next one ... Thx ...
Not sure whether you have tried the cup of water trick when driving ground rods. That trick has helped me plenty in the past when driving ground rods, especially when it is dry ground - pour a cup of water or two down the hole once you have started it a couple of inches down and it acts as a lubricant when driving the rod further down. For the waking up during the night and not being able to sleep well - read a book before going to bed - preferably not work-related to give your mind something else to think about and let you sleep - else you'll burn up way too young, ask me how I know :)
Isn't illegal to attach before the meter? Anyway surely it's dangerous, why not use a portable generator or this days a portable battery to power the equipment? That equipment is also not protected, a short in the equipment will make it explode, since the only overcurrent protection is the fuses on the primary side of the transformer (so a fault can pass hundreds of amps in the appliance and the cord).
Do that where I live (different country) you be in court for stealing electricity. The safety people would have part of your body removed.
Yeah I'm dumbfounded a licensed contractor would put up such unsafe and I'm assuming where he is possibly illegal practice.
I can see it. Thanks for pointing out the explosiveness connection made for a hydraulic bender.
I have an old 30amp fused switch that I tap on to get power. Cordless tools can't do everything.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful Vince!
Hey ill take the meter cover lid! 1111 perch rd pinnacle nc 27043, ill make it into a chimney pipe flashing :)
Thats a convenient conduit bender, I’ve never seen that type, what brand is it and how much did it cost ?
That’s an Ensley, which preceded Greenlee. Probably 40 years old.
@@stevealsmeyer2555 I’ve bent on that style it’s a great bender.
In general penetrations of 3R enclosures (without the benefit of a "waterproof" thing like a hub) are in lower part of the enclosure. If the top of your penetration is above the lowest terminal then you have violated the design.
Yeah that was a really bad install
I was thinking the same thing. I’m glad somebody else noticed.
No insulated tools, no rubber insulation mats, no suitable protective wear, not even an appropriate electrical tester at hand, nothing... Why does a TH-cam Channel called "Electric Pro Academy" promote such dangerous work practices? It's not cool to work next to virtually unfused live meter conductors like that! Man! You are a role model! Do I miss something? Is this intended to be ironic or something?
Hey man there's no sense in working on live gear and not having insulated tools. The lack of VDE tools being used in North America when I worked there blew my mind.
yeah at least use an insulated flat head, this guy is nuts, asking for an arc flash
@Jordan Lewis yeah man and him not even wearing eye or arc protection of any type. I bring a small genie too if I have to bust any holes or that. If this is how they teach their employees how to work then they're dicing with death.
So that’s why I see so many upside down or inverted panels. Saves on wire for sure.
What size copper conductor do you use for 200 amp service?
00
I would typically use 3/0 copper for a 200 amp service but more likely 4/0 AL due to the price savings
Great video. How’d you run/bend the second phase on the load side of the meter to run to the disconnect? Didn’t see that in the video.
RE:Stephen Matics. If you are talking about the piece that connects the two enclosures, it's called an offset and is a part that you can purchase.
@@munsters2actually I was talking about the hot ungrounded conductor that is ran from the right bottom side of the meter base to the disconnect. How would that wire be bent to connect into the lug? Would it be bent there at the bottom or would it be looped around the top right, go across the top, come down and then loop around the bottom into the lug? I wanted to see what that looked like.
@@speednutsII Sorry, I can't help you with that. Yeah, it's too bad parts of the project are missing, but I guess when you are busy working, you don't have time to record everything.
you don't have to have a plywood backing on the cement wall to mount the panel?
An air gap of 1/4" is required in the code between metal equipment and wet locations, however electrical equipment has the 1/4" built into the mounting holes. The 1/4" plywood thing has gotten traction as a way to satisfy that code, but the manufacturers came up with another way.
didn't have no ground rods in 1961 house....just through the service nuetral
I love what you did there with hooking that up... I know what you did there too, except for one thing I am confused about. It seems you had the ground and neutral together. Wouldn't that make a false ground ? Also, wouldn't it behoove you to instead make up a cord or an old pair of battery jumper cables rigged to a J Box with an electric socket, so you don't have to worry about creating a massive arc or literally screwing around with live wires ?
I don't know that the plastic or the enamel coating traditional jumpers are sufficient enough to insulate you from 120 volts or even 240 should you need it, but surely you can fashion something and have leather gloves insulated with non conductive rubber.
I might even go as far as magnetizing my J box and using a GFCI so that it is fully grounded and you can plug something in without worrying about it falling into a puddle and protecting you. Just a thought though.
Also, having lived in houses that have been flipped, I wish the flippers would have hired a pro for electrical. I can't tell you how many times I have taken down a ceiling and opened up open air splices. Not even a wire nut on them. Just the wires left bare and not even stapled to the rafters and in one case, someone stapled the bare copper wires to the rafters. I was a kid and got into a HUGE argument with Mother about how unsafe that was and again she said to me "I wish I could buy just ONE house that you didn't have to rewire." I was like "Me too, Mother. Me too."
When I can't sleep because my brain won't turn off, I make some chamomile tea and I write down everything that's going through my mind. A journal. I used an account book or composition notebook before computers came along and now, I journal in a computer. Sometimes I do both. Writing on paper vs typing on a computer produces different results so you have to find what works best for you, maybe even do both. This way, it's written down, you know it's there subconsciously and your brain doesn't have to worry about it anymore, because it's documented. Sleep, enough REM i crucial to staying fit, feeling well, and actually being healthy.
Old jumper cables lol that’s just insane
What's a "false ground"? The groundING conductor is connected to the groundED conductor at the first means of disconnect anyway. He just did it without a disconnect.
@@jovetj th-cam.com/video/gjo60o_nJ2I/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, can't punch or cut a hole above the electrical equipment in a nema 3 R disconnect.
I wonder where those two pieces of ground rods came from??? 😆
lmao cut off when they couldnt drive them all the way
@@Lewdacris916 😆 that is what I was thinking.
Electric work shouldn't be stressful for hpusr flippers in Indiana. They have to hire professionals. You can only get a self permit for you main residence in Indiana. So much of the house flipping work needs contractors in Indiana. So not as profitable as other states.
I added a subpanel and several Afci/gfci circuits in my basement with perfect inspection passes thanks to your channel and others.
Indiana doesn’t have state licensing for electricians, only local city, county, etc. Some localities don’t even require any building permits 😀
Need some alligator clips for temp power
Just a matter of time. I'll get a "proper rig" for it
You know those clips that come with car battery chargers.....try them instead of danger wiring.
We need to remember, that to take on such a project requires know how, skill and knowledge of your area's electrical code. Such changes or renovations to electrical installations are best left to the licensed, electricians for many reasons. Your home insurance will not cover your renovations if you fail to have them inspected by a official.
the more i watch these the more I'm inspired... of what not to do. focus bro, you're way scattered. work less, make more.
I love this 🤘🏼
Hey man, after watching the video and thinking about it some more, I’d say your trade is similar to my profession is a lot of ways. I’m a pharmacist in a hospital. Very high risk, zero room for mistakes. You’ve got to find time to rest and recharge. I can see you’re spread a bit thin and when that happens we start to take unnecessary risks or circumvent safety practices. We all have limits. I think especially in your profession, you do not want to test them. Just my two cents.
Thanks for sharing that Stephen. I’ve taken a page from Loren Rickey’s book and I’m using a very gentle sleep aide when my busy mind won’t shut off to help get a full 7-8 uninterrupted hours of shuteye. It’s been a great move to utilize occasionally without any side effects.
@@ElectricProAcademy right on man. I find with my busy schedule carving out time in my to do lists for myself and my family has done wonders in taking my mind off of work
Using power with no meter??
That can't be kosher
For 10 cents worth of power?
@@robertgregory2618 hey, I couldn't care less about using free power. But I would think the utility company would frown upon it
Threaded EMT?
IMC intermediate metal conduit. Thicker than EMT, thinner than rigid galvanized
Description corrected. It's definitely IMC
You gotta get some Whia or wera Screwdrivers..Klein is so yesterday
Nah, they are the real thing for insulated drivers.
@@skyemac8 once you go with REAL tools, from Knipex, Whia, Wera, all others are unfit for duty, there is a big difference, just the way they fit in your hand, comfort, and superior durability in the materials they use. Like WAGO lever nuts versus obsolete wire nut, twist on connectors, once you go WAGO, screw, screw on connectors
@@skyemac8 once you go with REAL tools, from Knipex, Whia, Wera, all others are unfit for duty, there is a big difference, just the way they fit in your hand, comfort, and superior durability in the materials they use. Like WAGO lever nuts versus obsolete wire nut, twist on connectors, once you go WAGO, screw, screw on connectors
@@skyemac8 Like a Porsche or Audi RS versus a Chevy....
@@cengeb I own them all. Klein is just as good. You have no idea.
wow joel you're in a mood today hahahaha
you're 100% right
Don't mess with line power like that. Have a generator onsite. Many ways this video is unsafe. Just trying to help.
Williams Osmans older brother!
Joel. Don't waste time unscrewing breaker terminal screws, just cut the wires close to the breakers. Just get that old panel out as fast as possible. When I was doing that kind of work, we did not have the luxury to dilley-dalley. House flippers are generally cheap-asses. Thanks, Russ, 28 years in the trade
To everyone saying he's stealing power. The utility doesn't care. It's like 2 cents. They would be more concerned with his cord trick but really the end of the wire will act as the fuse if shit went south and it's his life to live. Everyone has worked under the "do as I say not as I do" guy.
never drill anchor holes in mortar, too soft.
That's often the case. If the mortar in question provides a good grab it's nice not to drill and damage the brick.
1:45 did you seriously steal power there?
Mr. Waldsmen
I find this video highly upsetting because you are showing people how to perform a dangerous act. I enjoy watching you work but as licensed electrical contractor I take issue with you cutting the service conductors. The work you were doing is not worth someone untrained being killed performing. I like your hustle but leave this sort of thing off the tube.
5:04 Oh, that's nothing. You (or maybe someone fatter) can stand on it and fix that! hahaha
🤣 "Doglegs are just a personnel problem"
absolutely the WRONG screwdriver, USE Whia 1000 V insulated screw drivers, plastic handles not rated at 1kW is suicide
🤣 real world temporary supply lash up.
UK spark here. Have done similar to get power for tools, chargers etc. The Karens in the comments are are having kittens. 🤣
@@j0nA82 Use a mobile distribution board with proper RCD and MCB-s. Safe and simple.
Super love what I found online for this. I never knew it was a market nearly this big. $500 on up though!
You don't know the simple math, or how to use a 'no-dog' for conduit bending. You're ignorant to better methods for tapping into the line side for temp-power, yet are aware they exist, which is willful ignorance and dangerous. You failed to safe-off the exposed conductors after making those connections and then proceeded to stand next to the open shell with a piece of conductive material in your hands. This is behavior I would find unacceptable from a second-year apprentice, and most people would intuitively feel uneasy in the presence of someone who shows such little respect for the energy with which you're working. You're attempting to teach using a platform you should be employing to learn before you kill or injure yourself or someone else. Invest in a good generator, or maybe a Chicago bender as well as some classes if you want a future in the trade, or just a future in general.
Showed this to my boss and he laughed calling you a milker electrician 😂 🤡