This is the best content. I’m a 29 year old electrical contractor 7 months into growing my business and the tips for up selling and such are extremely helpful. Please keep this type of content coming! Thanks.
While I think it is awesome that you’re running a provisional conduit for data, theoretically, when running data communication lines (esp. Ethernet) parallel to power, it should be run 12in apart from electrical. Of course, distance between fiber optic and electrical doesn’t matter.
I'm in the EU, so rules and regulations differ - but here we are required a minimum of 100mm distance OR a mechanical divider OR a fire retardent divider (for anyone interested, it should be in iec 60364-5 Proximity of wiring systems to other services)
Ever since I learned your trick with stranded wire from you, wiggling it around in terminals to allow the strands to settle, I've been applying it to all of my electrical work. This includes 12v car electrical and audio equipment. I can't really say I had a huge loose wire issue before, but ever since learning that method I haven't seen it at all. Thank you for spreading electrical knowledge in such a positive and meaningful way. I share the proper method for tightening down stranded wire with others whenever I can.
I am a electrical contractor here in Texas! This guy is right on point! It’s all about attitude! Thanks for the videos I would love to talk to you and pick your brain! Thanks Shane Murphy Murphys Electric
Shane, love to hear from value-aligned viewers, thanks! Any interest in our business mastermind: exciting-producer-5962.ck.page/c003e9f63c? You sound like a valuable voice!
Joel Love your videos You have gotten me very interested in SPAN, Powerwall,and a tesla Roof Unfortunately I am not in Indiana I live in Naples FL. Talked to MAX today about the system that is proposed for my Florida house. I had some questions and he did a great job answering them. Thanks again for doing a great job and educating us all on the best solar systems. Jim
39:39 People watching - retired Plant Maintenance Supervisor. Trained Industrial Mechanic but did electrical work inside the plant, I do not know if it was legal where I was working, 25+ yrs., Manager said to was classed as DIY. Running conduit to new machines or when a machine was moved to a new location. You walk by a conduit you put in ten years ago, with it done right it was beautiful sight. On occasion there was conflict with the boss, show him the code and we got to do it properly. No one got hurt ever and nothing failed, that was a good thing.
52:26 I think it would have been faster and more cost effective (and neater in appearance) to change the grounding lug in the can. If you don't currently carry a few of the larger size lugs in the truck, you should start. The cost of those lugs would be a lot cheaper than a Polaris (best thing ever BTW) plus the added labor.
Hello. first i want to say thanks for all your awesome content, they're super helpful! I keep hearing that its not code compliant to directly screw a PVC connector in a metal hub outside. however, i see you do it in this video for the disconnect. Can you please elaborate? Thank you
36:04 as a fellow electrician I love to freak out about terminal torque ratings.. I see you are just cranking them down but I imagine your come back and torque and mark. What is your favorite torque tool?
at 37:36 the panel in not concerted a sub panel in that application. it is the main service panel for the car charger. to be a sub panel it would have to be fed from a main panel.
36:41 I know about marking a neutral but I've never seen the L1 and L2 marked in residential setting. I do understand the importance of labeling the three phases in a commercial setting so motors don't run backwards (don't ask how I know this). Curious what could go wrong if L1 and L2 were crosswired in a two phase setup? Keep in mind I'm a serious residential DIYer who used to work at Menards and now works in a factory.
In my opinion there would be no problem with reversing the phases. I can see where labeling which line is which could be very helpful for troubleshooting in the future. As Joel says, be nice to the next person (that next person may be you).
It’s split phase, instead of 2 phase. Since it’s just 2 ends of a single phase system, it makes no difference which line goes where. Same as the wiring inside the house. When making 240V connections to say a hot water tank or range, it doesn’t matter which color wire you connect to.
In working in Industrial Electrical for over 45 years I found that even properly torqued hardware would come loose in shipping. Of course, a lot of the equipment I worked on was manufactured in Europe and more recently China. The worse domestic panels were the newer Leviton.
56:50 Shame that surge suppressor couldn't be closer to the main disconnect. Why no main disconnect for the garage? Would putting a separate disconnect under the meter box for it, with the conductors coming down, through the disconnect, going back through the meter box and into the garage panel (Main Panel) have been an option?
@54:41 -- well, I have two wifi access points in my garage, the garage door can be monitored over wifi (but the monitor is not connected to the garage door controller), and there are multiple video cameras inside and outside of the garage (on all exterior walls), there is a Lutron Caseta switch for the exterior lights, plus various other pieces of equipment. Overall, maybe a dozen plus.
@@TimboStang71 it wasn’t a comment about code - I work in IT and when I see network wires run near power, I worry about crosstalk. Network is running at Gigabit speeds and doesn’t take much to introduce packet errors.
On the meter socket can you add a lug to each phase on the prongs coming off to add solar as a line side tap. I couldnt find anything from manufracture or in code book
Yes, that's code compliant if you respect the ampacity of your meter base appropriately; however, our utilities in Indiana will not allow those devices nor solar taps in the meters. (I think they're an amazing idea though)
What did you do with the green or uncover ground wire??? After put it inside the disconnect box. Do you take it directly to the water pipe?? Or you bring it inside the breaker box too?? . Do you have that video??
37:00 I would think it's a Main or just a Service Panel as it's Neutral bonded. I would only consider it a sub-panel if it was not. Now everyone tell me I'm wrong.
I understand the cable is rated for direct Burial, but don’t you have to a continue the conduit or sleeve until full depth of burial ? We generally always use a 2” or 3” sweep even it isn’t a full conduit run until we get proper depth of burial (18”+)
Around 50:00, speaking about why certain sparkys will have issues with others using power tools to cut wire, or just using certain ‘newer’ tools in general - bc old school dudes see new tools or power tools as a threat to our jobs. But, they need to be reminded there is such thing as ‘technology’ and it improves our lives (and destroys it) at the same time - Big difference between working smarter and being lazy LOL.
52:27 A number 4 alu EGC is all that's required for a 200 amp service. The striped wire in the URD is typically the neutral conductor. I've never had an issue using the 2/0 striped neutral and just pulled a 4 alu USE for the ground.
Also, love your videos and all the types of jobs you're working on......Q- The riser out of the Disconnect to the house- Its not 6" into the ground and isn't bushed....Isn't it suppose to 18" down and bushed?....Thanks!
Your American electrics are so medieval with your strange metering to me @29:00, locally here in Australia we go from aluminum to copper at an overheads mains point. Allows us to use much smaller meter panels. Underground electrics she's all typically copper. In my neck of the woods we can't use tape to ID phases either. @35:15 95mm2 copper in a super tight space to fit off a conveyor motor at a cement plant. Had to use a rubber mallet to get the connections spot on. @45:15 In Australia we use XLPE and it needs a hard cover top not tape when directly buried also sand should be used which I noted you guys didn't use. Danger tape is only used for mains held within pvc conduit. @51:46 A Chinese client of mine totally disconnected wiring himself on a commercial premises and created a dangerous situation which I had to resolve. Telling him it's not to Aussie standards totally changed his tune! Personally feel he just wants his new restaurant completed asap. @54:20 You should see how I wired automated my shed here, technically to code locally apart from a few R&D components. For a home automation system I designed. Do you think you'd give me a working holiday job :P
You’re right man, the things I see with even your outlets (receptacles) they are so far advanced in tech then our ancient duplex rec or GFCIs. I see the similar with the Uk and Europe - you guys are so far more advanced. Your home panel boxes are so small and sleek and easy to install. We are NOW starting to go to SMART homes with all wifi controls, etc.
@@mikenormandy9250 AFCI's they got right; It's not enforced here locally yet (We call them AFDDs) but they have a place and old mate didn't even touch on this in the project, although he sold them a SPD as an upsell; We surely could further and make it safer well above code!
@@TradieTrev it's pretty much code to use AFCI for almost everything, so it's not really an upsell, just a "code minimum". I didn't see if they used then or just put the old breakers in though. Not sure what eh code allows, whether it's new construction or remodel and such.. Lots to learn in this trade and it's always changing..
I love these types of jobs. Im a one man owner/crew/estimator/runner etc......I cant believe Indiana is still on the 08' code?? Why do you think that is?
THHN/THWN-2 is dual rated and sunlight resistance. Garage and house are considered separate services each requiring an independent grounding electrode and I see neither structures having an Intersystem bonding bridge provision. PS…..I guess Porky missed the memo on anti oxide use for aluminum conductors and URD conductors are not allowed to enter a structure even in a raceway because it isnt fire resistant
I would think you need a disconnect at the entrance of the home. 225.31 says : Means shall be provided for disconnecting all ungrounded conductors that supply or pass through the building or structure. 225.32 says : The disconnecting means shall be installed either inside or outside of the building or structure served or where the conductors pass through the building or structure. The disconnecting means shall be at a readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the conductors.
I'm pretty sure that having a readily-accessible means of disconnect off the meter at the garage is safer than having an external disconnect on the home with conductors that remain energized. Similar situation to a farm pole that has a meter and various disconnects for the structures that receive power off of it.
I’m not 100% sure in this situation but I know in the past he’s installed dedicated meters for EV charging. His local POCP has a lower rate for EV charging.
When we recently upgraded our service, we considered burying but our utility charges a monthly fee for that and we didn't want to have yet another "subscription" cost.
30:53 Um, I think you missed the torque wrench on the meter box! You were causing the fastening nuts on the lugs to loosen as well it was tightened so much! 👍😁
Great work! And I am interested in the business meeting y’all have available to learn more about. If you get this message please reply with more info! Thanks in advance!
38min. Because you changed it from a sub panel to a main off meter panel does that mean you have to bond grounds and neutrals? Also did that garage have it's own ground rod?
I thought the garage had its own service (EV rate) from the start? Was a main panel before and main panel after. Maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention.
37:13 sub panel.. that’s what my boss cells them. I’ll have to ask him.,how many amps are in it., it will be a second main panel if it’s over 200 amps I’ll just cell them glorified junction I’ll this thinking
Not to scare the customer, but in all honesty they should know that if the wiring is not up to code and that causes the house to burn down? Their insurer can simply say goodbye and walk away. That's the customers' choice, but they should be aware of the risks of not meeting code.
43:16 I wonder if that thing would over heat in the summer in a hot parked car in direct sunlight... If that doesn't overheat it, then it's more awesome !
05: 39 I LOVE those solar generators. Hope the price comes down considerably. At minimum, it would be ideal for every room, and better, at every outlet and all of them connected to solar panels to be independent of the grid and the greed of the electric company. How long would it run an AC compressor, its fan, and inside blower ? Maybe 3 ideally for that application... Does it have protection if there's a ground fault, short, or water hazard ? I don't like that the two top outlets and the 220 outlets are upside down, so that kind of messes with my OCD. I don't care about that app stuff. That's just more things to go wrong and another point to allow a hacker to penetrate your network and for someone to keep tabs on what you're running. Overall I do like the concept and if money wasn't the issue and it had protections from shocks, ground faults, overheating and the fire risks that are all too common with these batteries, I am otherwise sold. Been debating with myself if I should buy solar panels for my house or not. I know better than to lease them. I can't afford the electric bill I have so I am looking to eliminate it, not have another one, and then have those things on the essentials to start. Heating A.C. refrigerations, CPAP, computers modems and TIVO, then expand from there buying that instead of paying the greedy electric company as currently they're cooking me to death in 101 F degree heat Oy vey. Great video and thank you for posting. I do like those solar generators though. Usually if I can't get something with a manual screwdriver, so far, a reverse drill or DeWalt impact driver in reverse ALWAYS works.
@13:27 "my goal is to be the worst electrician on my team." That hit me. I run an avionics workcenter that maintains military 737's. I'm absolutely going to use that one on my next "why arent any of you idiots qualified yet" talk.
How does the double gang meter split the 200amp and 100amp from one service drop? Anyone… doesn’t it split evenly through one service drop? Any one please
55:29 I'd be VERY particular about my conduit. I'd INSIST on galvanized steel and made sure you knew it before the project started and if you absolutely could not, and would not, I'd come in after the fact and change it, then dispute that charge on the bill. When a customer is paying, especially these MILLIONS you spoke of, they should get solid GOLD connections and top shelve premium, stuff. Not plastic and nylon garbage.
Rarely if ever. Our estimate fee is mostly a tool for qualifying our leads. Once we know someone's the real deal, we're happy to lean on relationship over legality.
34:08 Also, one would think that in these days, since everyone knows better, they would stop constructing houses with combustible materials. But no, they like to regulate the hell out of affordability for everything else, but when it comes to codes to keep one from losing their house, they're willfully, insufferably and blissfully ignorant to that fact.
I worked for an electric contractor 40 years ago he was a criminal. He did so many things wrong i quite after a year it was sad that he had an electrical license.
Thanks for the feedback, @G N. We've had a few offers stack up recently and had to get a little creative to hit everyone's timelines. We'll try to tone it back in future vids.
@@ElectricProAcademy I do like seeing different options for all kinds of new tech, but maybe just shorter versions or just a small pop up in the corner or something?
Great Video! At 37.49 the length of the neutral wire coming off the HomeLine Surge protector should be a SHORT and DIRECT as possible, according to the manufacturer. Direct quote from installation guide, "NOTE: The SPD requires two adjacent mounting spaces and must be installed as close to neutral assembly and main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible. Keep wire lengths as short as possible with no sharp bends."
Always hate these instructions. I know it may be a space constraint issue but I guess, the manufacturers, never had to re-run a whole ONE cable bc it was cut TOO SHORT and when needing service, no service loop left for a new termination.
Id call it a Main - maybe Main 1 and a Main 2, also I would have run the Garage 2" all the way down to the 24" dig level - far to easy for an idiot to cut the horizontal bare lines!
All this effort seems useless when keeping the overhead wires from the pole to the garage. Why two meters? Don't utilities charge higher fees for that.
I am impressed you have 33 employees and you are out in the field working!!!!!!!
This is the best content. I’m a 29 year old electrical contractor 7 months into growing my business and the tips for up selling and such are extremely helpful. Please keep this type of content coming! Thanks.
“Get your aching body out of the field”. That comment really hit home Joe.
While I think it is awesome that you’re running a provisional conduit for data, theoretically, when running data communication lines (esp. Ethernet) parallel to power, it should be run 12in apart from electrical. Of course, distance between fiber optic and electrical doesn’t matter.
I'm in the EU, so rules and regulations differ - but here we are required a minimum of 100mm distance OR a mechanical divider OR a fire retardent divider (for anyone interested, it should be in iec 60364-5 Proximity of wiring systems to other services)
love watching your team work, and interesting projects. as a DIYer, I like learning at your videos
Ever since I learned your trick with stranded wire from you, wiggling it around in terminals to allow the strands to settle, I've been applying it to all of my electrical work. This includes 12v car electrical and audio equipment. I can't really say I had a huge loose wire issue before, but ever since learning that method I haven't seen it at all. Thank you for spreading electrical knowledge in such a positive and meaningful way. I share the proper method for tightening down stranded wire with others whenever I can.
I am a electrical contractor here in Texas! This guy is right on point! It’s all about attitude! Thanks for the videos I would love to talk to you and pick your brain! Thanks
Shane Murphy
Murphys Electric
Shane, love to hear from value-aligned viewers, thanks! Any interest in our business mastermind: exciting-producer-5962.ck.page/c003e9f63c? You sound like a valuable voice!
Great video! Love to see how the sausage is made.
Joel Love your videos You have gotten me very interested in SPAN, Powerwall,and a tesla Roof Unfortunately I am not in Indiana I live in Naples FL. Talked to MAX today about the system that is proposed for my Florida house. I had some questions and he did a great job answering them. Thanks again for doing a great job and educating us all on the best solar systems. Jim
39:39 People watching - retired Plant Maintenance Supervisor. Trained Industrial Mechanic but did electrical work inside the plant, I do not know if it was legal where I was working, 25+ yrs., Manager said to was classed as DIY. Running conduit to new machines or when a machine was moved to a new location. You walk by a conduit you put in ten years ago, with it done right it was beautiful sight. On occasion there was conflict with the boss, show him the code and we got to do it properly. No one got hurt ever and nothing failed, that was a good thing.
52:26 I think it would have been faster and more cost effective (and neater in appearance) to change the grounding lug in the can. If you don't currently carry a few of the larger size lugs in the truck, you should start. The cost of those lugs would be a lot cheaper than a Polaris (best thing ever BTW) plus the added labor.
The panels I got from Eaton (BR or CH) didn’t come with lug covers. Is this something you need to purchase separately? 38:45
Yes, my panels did not come with them either. I saw them hanging in the aisle @ HD.
@@lorenrickey5481 I will check it out. Lowes doesn’t have them in my store.
In Florida, you can do this kind of work as a homeowner. In fact I have done it twice. Inspector said it was good work.
Hello. first i want to say thanks for all your awesome content, they're super helpful! I keep hearing that its not code compliant to directly screw a PVC connector in a metal hub outside. however, i see you do it in this video for the disconnect. Can you please elaborate? Thank you
36:04 as a fellow electrician I love to freak out about terminal torque ratings..
I see you are just cranking them down but I imagine your come back and torque and mark. What is your favorite torque tool?
at 37:36 the panel in not concerted a sub panel in that application. it is the main service panel for the car charger. to be a sub panel it would have to be fed from a main panel.
What exact mounting screws on the meter cabinet again?
36:41 I know about marking a neutral but I've never seen the L1 and L2 marked in residential setting. I do understand the importance of labeling the three phases in a commercial setting so motors don't run backwards (don't ask how I know this). Curious what could go wrong if L1 and L2 were crosswired in a two phase setup?
Keep in mind I'm a serious residential DIYer who used to work at Menards and now works in a factory.
I would like to know myself. Been working for an electrician, and we haven't been doing that, but I will ask when I get a chance
In my opinion there would be no problem with reversing the phases. I can see where labeling which line is which could be very helpful for troubleshooting in the future. As Joel says, be nice to the next person (that next person may be you).
It’s split phase, instead of 2 phase. Since it’s just 2 ends of a single phase system, it makes no difference which line goes where.
Same as the wiring inside the house. When making 240V connections to say a hot water tank or range, it doesn’t matter which color wire you connect to.
You seem like a great person to work for. I love this channel
Love it makes me want to get back into the trade man.
Another great video Joel! Do you check the torque on all the pre-installed hardware? It is very important.
Not always. More often for high draw hardware, like EV chargers, but not 100% there either. Thanks for bringing it to mind; might revisit my stance...
In working in Industrial Electrical for over 45 years I found that even properly torqued hardware would come loose in shipping. Of course, a lot of the equipment I worked on was manufactured in Europe and more recently China. The worse domestic panels were the newer Leviton.
Shared to Twitter
56:50 Shame that surge suppressor couldn't be closer to the main disconnect.
Why no main disconnect for the garage? Would putting a separate disconnect under the meter box for it, with the conductors coming down, through the disconnect, going back through the meter box and into the garage panel (Main Panel) have been an option?
37:18 bushing should be installed prior to installation of wire per NEC.
Joel great work as always. I like to note that raceway protection for DB cable is 18” below ground and up to 8ft above ground. Thanks
@54:41 -- well, I have two wifi access points in my garage, the garage door can be monitored over wifi (but the monitor is not connected to the garage door controller), and there are multiple video cameras inside and outside of the garage (on all exterior walls), there is a Lutron Caseta switch for the exterior lights, plus various other pieces of equipment. Overall, maybe a dozen plus.
You are running a data cable in parallel with a 200 amp service cable? Wow - I would avoid running data near power. 46:17
As long as their separated in different conduits theirs no violations. I come across this all the time
@@TimboStang71 it wasn’t a comment about code - I work in IT and when I see network wires run near power, I worry about crosstalk. Network is running at Gigabit speeds and doesn’t take much to introduce packet errors.
@@MrKen59 Correct. Electrical interference through induction.
@@kahilzinger Run shielded cable. Probably mostly solved.
Can’t seem to locate the screws he is using at 26:40
This is the exact project I want to do.
On the meter socket can you add a lug to each phase on the prongs coming off to add solar as a line side tap. I couldnt find anything from manufracture or in code book
Yes, that's code compliant if you respect the ampacity of your meter base appropriately; however, our utilities in Indiana will not allow those devices nor solar taps in the meters. (I think they're an amazing idea though)
What did you do with the green or uncover ground wire??? After put it inside the disconnect box. Do you take it directly to the water pipe?? Or you bring it inside the breaker box too?? . Do you have that video??
37:00 I would think it's a Main or just a Service Panel as it's Neutral bonded. I would only consider it a sub-panel if it was not. Now everyone tell me I'm wrong.
I understand the cable is rated for direct Burial, but don’t you have to a continue the conduit or sleeve until full depth of burial ? We generally always use a 2” or 3” sweep even it isn’t a full conduit run until we get proper depth of burial (18”+)
what torque wrench is that? nice install!
750 MCM Parallel 6 runs
I was able to identify and repair a code violation on my exterior lightning thanks to your very educational videos. Thank you Joel.
Around 50:00, speaking about why certain sparkys will have issues with others using power tools to cut wire, or just using certain ‘newer’ tools in general - bc old school dudes see new tools or power tools as a threat to our jobs. But, they need to be reminded there is such thing as ‘technology’ and it improves our lives (and destroys it) at the same time - Big difference between working smarter and being lazy LOL.
52:27 A number 4 alu EGC is all that's required for a 200 amp service. The striped wire in the URD is typically the neutral conductor. I've never had an issue using the 2/0 striped neutral and just pulled a 4 alu USE for the ground.
What is that 2 gang meter box rated for?
What kind of double meter box is that, and what is each meter rated for??? Thank you.
Awesome video Great work . I purchased the Anderson with two panels i hope i get the discounts but I doubt it.
Anker that is not Anderson smart phones they are like college kids think they know better than we do about what we are writing lol
Also, love your videos and all the types of jobs you're working on......Q- The riser out of the Disconnect to the house- Its not 6" into the ground and isn't bushed....Isn't it suppose to 18" down and bushed?....Thanks!
Your American electrics are so medieval with your strange metering to me @29:00, locally here in Australia we go from aluminum to copper at an overheads mains point. Allows us to use much smaller meter panels. Underground electrics she's all typically copper. In my neck of the woods we can't use tape to ID phases either.
@35:15 95mm2 copper in a super tight space to fit off a conveyor motor at a cement plant. Had to use a rubber mallet to get the connections spot on.
@45:15 In Australia we use XLPE and it needs a hard cover top not tape when directly buried also sand should be used which I noted you guys didn't use. Danger tape is only used for mains held within pvc conduit.
@51:46 A Chinese client of mine totally disconnected wiring himself on a commercial premises and created a dangerous situation which I had to resolve. Telling him it's not to Aussie standards totally changed his tune! Personally feel he just wants his new restaurant completed asap.
@54:20 You should see how I wired automated my shed here, technically to code locally apart from a few R&D components. For a home automation system I designed.
Do you think you'd give me a working holiday job :P
You’re right man, the things I see with even your outlets (receptacles) they are so far advanced in tech then our ancient duplex rec or GFCIs. I see the similar with the Uk and Europe - you guys are so far more advanced. Your home panel boxes are so small and sleek and easy to install. We are NOW starting to go to SMART homes with all wifi controls, etc.
@@mikenormandy9250 AFCI's they got right; It's not enforced here locally yet (We call them AFDDs) but they have a place and old mate didn't even touch on this in the project, although he sold them a SPD as an upsell; We surely could further and make it safer well above code!
@@TradieTrev it's pretty much code to use AFCI for almost everything, so it's not really an upsell, just a "code minimum". I didn't see if they used then or just put the old breakers in though. Not sure what eh code allows, whether it's new construction or remodel and such..
Lots to learn in this trade and it's always changing..
I love these types of jobs. Im a one man owner/crew/estimator/runner etc......I cant believe Indiana is still on the 08' code?? Why do you think that is?
Just updated to 2020 in mid-2023. Not sure, but the most common answer I hear to that question is AFCI.
My grandpa buried all his wires. I am so happy that I don't have to look at ugly cables all around the property.
The $2000 a day/ man includes salary, materials, equipment costs/ rental equipment, insurance, profit?
Can you help me with that. I just graduated as a electrician but at school they didn't teach me that! And I'm super curious!!
Anything getting power directly from the power company id consider a main if the panel was fed from a service panel then it would be a sub
I really should have gone into electrical after I retired from the Navy.
Thhn 2/ Thwn 2 is sunlight resistant on those sizes
@ 37:12 definitely a main panel if it is bonded
@36:54; could be called any of those, depends on application
Yes but isn't he identifying the situation in this video, LOL
I didn’t read it that way, but, if so, it’s a sub-panel imho.
THHN/THWN-2 is dual rated and sunlight resistance. Garage and house are considered separate services each requiring an independent grounding electrode and I see neither structures having an Intersystem bonding bridge provision. PS…..I guess Porky missed the memo on anti oxide use for aluminum conductors and URD conductors are not allowed to enter a structure even in a raceway because it isnt fire resistant
I really appreciate your videos.
Do you have a video of bonding a gas meter from start to finish?
I would think you need a disconnect at the entrance of the home.
225.31 says : Means shall be provided for disconnecting all ungrounded conductors that supply or pass through the building or structure.
225.32 says : The disconnecting means shall be installed either inside or outside of the building or structure served or where the conductors pass through the building or structure. The disconnecting means shall be at a readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the conductors.
I'm pretty sure that having a readily-accessible means of disconnect off the meter at the garage is safer than having an external disconnect on the home with conductors that remain energized. Similar situation to a farm pole that has a meter and various disconnects for the structures that receive power off of it.
@@jovetj It is pretty clear with the rule that you have to have a disconnect.
@@Fazer07 How "near" is the main disconnect on the panel itself?
@@jovetj Take a look at what article 225 covers.
This was one of the first rules ever in the code book.
@@Fazer07 I'm sorry, I asked you a direct question about your interpretation of the rule you're talking about. Not my own interpretation.
If that garage is apart of the house, why not sub out to it from the main panel, or is a different house thats why you put it on its own meter?
I’m not 100% sure in this situation but I know in the past he’s installed dedicated meters for EV charging. His local POCP has a lower rate for EV charging.
@@Qazxswer68 That's exactly the case here.
When we recently upgraded our service, we considered burying but our utility charges a monthly fee for that and we didn't want to have yet another "subscription" cost.
Very odd, not sure we've heard of that before! What region are you in?
@@ElectricProAcademy Minneapolis. Provider is Xcel Energy.
See ya at greenwood😊
30:53 Um, I think you missed the torque wrench on the meter box! You were causing the fastening nuts on the lugs to loosen as well it was tightened so much! 👍😁
Came here to say that. It's NEC requirement to torque.
Great work! And I am interested in the business meeting y’all have available to learn more about. If you get this message please reply with more info! Thanks in advance!
38min. Because you changed it from a sub panel to a main off meter panel does that mean you have to bond grounds and neutrals? Also did that garage have it's own ground rod?
I thought the garage had its own service (EV rate) from the start? Was a main panel before and main panel after. Maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention.
did you say 350 xhhw ?
37:13 sub panel.. that’s what my boss cells them. I’ll have to ask him.,how many amps are in it., it will be a second main panel if it’s over 200 amps I’ll just cell them glorified junction I’ll this thinking
Not to scare the customer, but in all honesty they should know that if the wiring is not up to code and that causes the house to burn down? Their insurer can simply say goodbye and walk away. That's the customers' choice, but they should be aware of the risks of not meeting code.
43:16 I wonder if that thing would over heat in the summer in a hot parked car in direct sunlight... If that doesn't overheat it, then it's more awesome !
05: 39 I LOVE those solar generators. Hope the price comes down considerably. At minimum, it would be ideal for every room, and better, at every outlet and all of them connected to solar panels to be independent of the grid and the greed of the electric company. How long would it run an AC compressor, its fan, and inside blower ? Maybe 3 ideally for that application... Does it have protection if there's a ground fault, short, or water hazard ? I don't like that the two top outlets and the 220 outlets are upside down, so that kind of messes with my OCD.
I don't care about that app stuff. That's just more things to go wrong and another point to allow a hacker to penetrate your network and for someone to keep tabs on what you're running. Overall I do like the concept and if money wasn't the issue and it had protections from shocks, ground faults, overheating and the fire risks that are all too common with these batteries, I am otherwise sold. Been debating with myself if I should buy solar panels for my house or not. I know better than to lease them. I can't afford the electric bill I have so I am looking to eliminate it, not have another one, and then have those things on the essentials to start. Heating A.C. refrigerations, CPAP, computers modems and TIVO, then expand from there buying that instead of paying the greedy electric company as currently they're cooking me to death in 101 F degree heat Oy vey.
Great video and thank you for posting. I do like those solar generators though.
Usually if I can't get something with a manual screwdriver, so far, a reverse drill or DeWalt impact driver in reverse ALWAYS works.
Not supposed to use noloax on your inductors 32:52
My guess sub panel in garage 36:55
I'd call that a subpanel. It's a bit big (in terms of spaces) to be considered a "pony panel" in my books.
@13:27 "my goal is to be the worst electrician on my team." That hit me. I run an avionics workcenter that maintains military 737's. I'm absolutely going to use that one on my next "why arent any of you idiots qualified yet" talk.
Please don't stop Teaching 😢
How does the double gang meter split the 200amp and 100amp from one service drop? Anyone… doesn’t it split evenly through one service drop? Any one please
The main disconnects after the meters are responsible for limiting the current draw of each side to not exceed the rating of the service and meterbox.
Thank you
I've used 700 kc mill coper
Couldn't you just tap and install larger mechanical lug?
3 in my garage. Camera, door, and Tesla car
best video
55:29 I'd be VERY particular about my conduit. I'd INSIST on galvanized steel and made sure you knew it before the project started and if you absolutely could not, and would not, I'd come in after the fact and change it, then dispute that charge on the bill. When a customer is paying, especially these MILLIONS you spoke of, they should get solid GOLD connections and top shelve premium, stuff. Not plastic and nylon garbage.
Hello how could receive the products and service list?
0 connections in my garage/pole shed.
Work in a real old steel mill. 150 years old. 220 volt DC. Spand wires 1000 mcm. RH. Talk about A. M F
Sub panel in garage
Let's not go overboard on the (I'm sure) paid advertisements, Joel. 🙂
Excellent vid and great crew you have ... Thx for all you do ...
The look on Cliff's face after Joel says "Don't make me late!" is priceless!
Why can’t you just have 1 meter? Why does the garage have to have its own meter?
In Indianapolis, the main utility (AES) requires a separate meter for the optimal off-peak EV charging rate
37:00 Load Center
Do you still charge repeat customers an estimate fee?
Rarely if ever. Our estimate fee is mostly a tool for qualifying our leads. Once we know someone's the real deal, we're happy to lean on relationship over legality.
34:08 Also, one would think that in these days, since everyone knows better, they would stop constructing houses with combustible materials. But no, they like to regulate the hell out of affordability for everything else, but when it comes to codes to keep one from losing their house, they're willfully, insufferably and blissfully ignorant to that fact.
This video is half advertising.
I worked for an electric contractor 40 years ago he was a criminal. He did so many things wrong i quite after a year it was sad that he had an electrical license.
Yikes, sorry to hear it!
@@ElectricProAcademy I have worked for catholic church for over 40 years a much better environment!!!!
What happened to your tighten wiggle loosen tighten.
Ipl use to give meterbase for free
That battery is $2,000 before shipping
No, WHYYYYY. Why direct burial?!?! Conduit, every time.
Love your videos, but this one had too much promotional content.
Thanks for the feedback, @G N. We've had a few offers stack up recently and had to get a little creative to hit everyone's timelines. We'll try to tone it back in future vids.
@@ElectricProAcademy I do like seeing different options for all kinds of new tech, but maybe just shorter versions or just a small pop up in the corner or something?
Really helpful feedback, thank you @vaska
Great Video! At 37.49 the length of the neutral wire coming off the HomeLine Surge protector should be a SHORT and DIRECT as possible, according to the manufacturer. Direct quote from installation guide, "NOTE: The SPD requires two adjacent mounting spaces and must be installed as close to neutral assembly and main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible. Keep wire lengths as short as possible with no sharp bends."
Always hate these instructions. I know it may be a space constraint issue but I guess, the manufacturers, never had to re-run a whole ONE cable bc it was cut TOO SHORT and when needing service, no service loop left for a new termination.
Id call it a Main - maybe Main 1 and a Main 2, also I would have run the Garage 2" all the way down to the 24" dig level - far to easy for an idiot to cut the horizontal bare lines!
All this effort seems useless when keeping the overhead wires from the pole to the garage. Why two meters? Don't utilities charge higher fees for that.
Why not spend another buck or two and put caps on that data pipe instead of tape?
weatherproof UV cat6 inside anyways
Plum vs Level... hummmm
Subpanel