No bro, don’t put nothing inside there to pull valve cover off. There’s an easy way to pop it off but for some reason it’s like the best kept secret ever. First time I tried to remove it, two days later I was still at it. I’m not exaggerating. So I paused everything I was doing and Iooked at it for a while (about 3 days) lol. If you notice in the middle of the valve cover there’s two cut off holes and each have a shiny ball at the bottom. All you need to do is put a hammer or a medium size crowbar against that bottom ball and just gently pry it up. Start slowly, don’t put all your power into it cuz you don’t want to damage or bend your aluminum valve cover. It’s coming off very easily because you’re right in the center. I usually pop it off from the first cutoff hole closer to the front of the car. The other cut off hole I don’t think I ever had to use it plus I find there’s not enough room. Try it, it will only take you a minute. As a matter fact, wiggling the valve cover off the block will take you longer than popping it off
Thank you for making this. As a MB technician who owns a ML350 bluetec & working on a OM642 GL350 bluetec, this was very informative to know & sharpened my skills working on this engine.
@@ArtOfDiesel Regarding the vacuum pump hole, I suggest 2 screws, male and female, with a middle hex part that can be screwed out to push both ends outward. With a dampener made out of rubber at both ends
Hi if its not too much trouble 4 U to answer...I own OM 642 S211 with 190 k mls and i havce never replaced transmission oil (7g tronic) .I would like to do it soon, have Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 and question is shall I use transmission oil cleaner additive, shall I drain oil from torque converter too ? I just dont want to make more mess. Much obliged.
Hi. Good video. I have 2007 e320 CDI V6. Not starting DPF plugged cams on both sides not the same timing chain stretched 12% . Could you send me that Mercedes WSI manual how do I find it online. Thanks
The guides on these om642 engines seem to get very little wear over time, this kind of lower cost repair is definitely the way to go over changing everything.
I need to replace my timing chain. I am curious how far off timing it currently is, does the crank pulley have timing marks? I can't seem to find them.
@anyvey, it does have timing marks. You might have to clean off the pulley. When I found mine, I marked them with white paint. Mine was a full 15 degrees retarded.
Awesome Video. Would you mind sharing all the mods you did on the R320 to achieve 30mpg. I have purchased a 2010 R350 3.0L Bluetec with 185K. I did all the filters, the CCV and some seals/rings/gaskets. Oil cooler seals in the V of engine seem to not be leaking. seals in the egr cooler, vacuum housing, and oil filter housing were leaking and seem to be fine since changing. Timing chain tensioner looks to be within normal specifications. I plan to clean the intake manifolds this summer and do a swirl flap delete with a resistor in the plug. I would really like to stop the recirculation of exhaust gas into the intake manifold. It looked pretty built up with carbon. Debating on the ECU tune to delete the EGR. CB-Engineering has a Full EGR delete kit with plates, pipes, etc which replaces the actual EGR cooler in the V of the engine. It needs a ECU tune with the mod. Just looking to bring this engine to its potential. The EGR, DPF, DEF just seem to create such negative issues. Any info would be gratefully appreciated. Thank you
You are on the right track! I deleted swirl flaps, EGR, DPF, and cats. Cleaned out the intake manifolds that were a sorry mess, too. You need a tune and at that time I went with a Malone (tunezilla) tune, but they might not offer the delete options, anymore. Today I'd look up Tautvydas Lukosevicius of ECU Tuning Kaunas on Facebook to ask what he can do for the OM642. That's who I'm working with on my E320 CDI with the OM648, now.
@@ArtOfDiesel yeah I got DEF injection. Was looking at JR Tuning as I'm in Canada. Stage 2 with DPF Egr and scr option. I will probably just hollow out the DPF and leave CAT in place and disconnect sensors and Adblue system.
@@chrismurray8019 make sure the tune you buy deals with all of your deletions. For instance, the DPF has pressure sensors before and after, and it will notice that there's no pressure differential. The ECU will be looking for that DEF system, the EGR, etc. Join my substack at artofdiesel.substack.com and reach out to let me know how your R-class project goes!
Haha! If the car needs it at some point. Perhaps somebody else has one that needs this work in the Cincinnati area and we could make some content out of getting that done.
I deleted swirl flaps, EGR, DPF, and cats. Cleaned out the intake manifolds that were a sorry mess, too. Don't do this if your state prohibits it! I went with a Malone (Tunezilla) tune, but I don' t know if they do deletes, anymore. Today I'd look up Tautvydas Lukosevicius of ECU Tuning Kaunas (in Lithuania) on Facebook to ask what he can do for the OM642. That's who I'm working with on my E320 CDI with the OM648, now.
i am having hell of a time to remove the valve covers /cam cover. do you have any suggestion beside slide hammer ? scared of using the cam holes as they have oil passage .Thanks
@sarcotexas, I'm sorry I don't know a better way and I haven't built/tested a tool for the cam holes. Because no gaskets are used and the valve covers are glued on with sealant, they are really on there tightly! Perhaps somebody else will weigh-in with an idea. I've been hunting around the web for other suggestions and I'm not finding any. The only realy discussion of it I've found is in the following location and they adapted a slide hammer. mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/658619-om642-timing-chain-replacement-diy-gl-350-blutech.html#post7079816
If you wind up using a slide hammer, I'd look at putting an insert into that hole, but be careful not to exceed the original hole's depth when drilling and tapping for the insert.
I would just use a prybar between the valve cover, and the valley where the injectors goes, have done it multiple times, just take your time and pry at different points a little at a time.
(Translation: Looking for cylinder head torque on the OM642.) Have you looked around to see if you can find a downloadable copy of the Mercedes WIS (work instruction system)? These guys have a link to get it: www.car-auto-repair.com/mercedes-benz-epcwis-asra-2018-full-free-donwload/
1. We made a lot better timing chain tool 2. Covers lifted from the corner with screwdriver and hummer (carefully) 3. Chinese riveting tool can be easily modified, and no need to remove camshafts.
Hey, I'd like to see photos of that modified chain tool! I figured I would cut it down next time, which I'm sure you did. Still, it'd be cool to see what you did to it!
@@sprintermotors bonjour je suis abonné sur votre chaîne j’ai regardé pas mal de vidéo sur votre chaîne mercis.je voudrais savoir sur un OM642 E350cdi de l’année 2010 Il faut combien de temps de travail pour remplacer la chaîne de distribution? parce que j’ai un souci au premier démarrage dans la journée c’est-à-dire que quelque soit le temps , le matin midi soir lorsque je démarre la voiture pendant une ou deux secondes j’entends le bruit de chaîne ensuite pendant toute la journée aux autres démarrage il n’y a aucun problème ça démarre sans faire du bruit c’est seulement au premier démarrage qui me fait ce bruit Et très rarement le fait pas du tout. je ne sais pas si c’est le tendeur qui a un défaut ou bien je dois faire je dois placer complètement c’est-à-dire il comprit la chaîne et plus le tendeur ? remplacement de l’huile de moteur je suis très soigneux Kiyar depuis que je l’ai acheté (140000km) j’ai toujours fait faire remplacer l’huile entre 4000km à 7000 km et le moteur a maintenant 234 000km
@@alidogansoy8534j’ai lu sur des forums que si tu entends la chaîne au démarrage, le galet tendeur est au maximum donc chaîne trop détendue et faut changer. T’as résolu le problème depuis le temps ?
I admire work done there, however changing timing chain without changing all movable parts where chain is rotating/sliding is waste of time and money… Generally speaking if chain it self is stretched it’s more likely that other parts of the set must be replaced as well…
No bro, don’t put nothing inside there to pull valve cover off. There’s an easy way to pop it off but for some reason it’s like the best kept secret ever. First time I tried to remove it, two days later I was still at it. I’m not exaggerating. So I paused everything I was doing and Iooked at it for a while (about 3 days) lol. If you notice in the middle of the valve cover there’s two cut off holes and each have a shiny ball at the bottom. All you need to do is put a hammer or a medium size crowbar against that bottom ball and just gently pry it up. Start slowly, don’t put all your power into it cuz you don’t want to damage or bend your aluminum valve cover. It’s coming off very easily because you’re right in the center. I usually pop it off from the first cutoff hole closer to the front of the car. The other cut off hole I don’t think I ever had to use it plus I find there’s not enough room. Try it, it will only take you a minute. As a matter fact, wiggling the valve cover off the block will take you longer than popping it off
Thank you for making this. As a MB technician who owns a ML350 bluetec & working on a OM642 GL350 bluetec, this was very informative to know & sharpened my skills working on this engine.
Cool! Glad to help!
@@ArtOfDiesel Regarding the vacuum pump hole, I suggest 2 screws, male and female, with a middle hex part that can be screwed out to push both ends outward. With a dampener made out of rubber at both ends
Hi if its not too much trouble 4 U to answer...I own OM 642 S211 with 190 k mls and i havce never replaced transmission oil (7g tronic) .I would like to do it soon, have Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 and question is shall I use transmission oil cleaner additive, shall I drain oil from torque converter too ? I just dont want to make more mess.
Much obliged.
My chain just broke. 196K miles. Thank you for your video.
Sorry to hear that! I hope you didn't just completely destroy the engine -- which is all too likely.
If you heat the valve covers up (about to operating temperature) they'll come off much more easily.
Hi. Good video. I have 2007 e320 CDI V6. Not starting DPF plugged cams on both sides not the same timing chain stretched 12% . Could you send me that Mercedes WSI manual how do I find it online. Thanks
The guides on these om642 engines seem to get very little wear over time, this kind of lower cost repair is definitely the way to go over changing everything.
I need to replace my timing chain. I am curious how far off timing it currently is, does the crank pulley have timing marks? I can't seem to find them.
@anyvey, it does have timing marks. You might have to clean off the pulley. When I found mine, I marked them with white paint. Mine was a full 15 degrees retarded.
Awesome Video. Would you mind sharing all the mods you did on the R320 to achieve 30mpg. I have purchased a 2010 R350 3.0L Bluetec with 185K. I did all the filters, the CCV and some seals/rings/gaskets. Oil cooler seals in the V of engine seem to not be leaking. seals in the egr cooler, vacuum housing, and oil filter housing were leaking and seem to be fine since changing. Timing chain tensioner looks to be within normal specifications. I plan to clean the intake manifolds this summer and do a swirl flap delete with a resistor in the plug. I would really like to stop the recirculation of exhaust gas into the intake manifold. It looked pretty built up with carbon. Debating on the ECU tune to delete the EGR. CB-Engineering has a Full EGR delete kit with plates, pipes, etc which replaces the actual EGR cooler in the V of the engine. It needs a ECU tune with the mod. Just looking to bring this engine to its potential. The EGR, DPF, DEF just seem to create such negative issues. Any info would be gratefully appreciated. Thank you
You are on the right track! I deleted swirl flaps, EGR, DPF, and cats. Cleaned out the intake manifolds that were a sorry mess, too. You need a tune and at that time I went with a Malone (tunezilla) tune, but they might not offer the delete options, anymore. Today I'd look up Tautvydas Lukosevicius of ECU Tuning Kaunas on Facebook to ask what he can do for the OM642. That's who I'm working with on my E320 CDI with the OM648, now.
You also have DEF injection, don't you? I don't know if that adds any restrictions to your exhaust. I didn't have that in my 2007 model.
@@ArtOfDiesel yeah I got DEF injection. Was looking at JR Tuning as I'm in Canada. Stage 2 with DPF Egr and scr option. I will probably just hollow out the DPF and leave CAT in place and disconnect sensors and Adblue system.
@@chrismurray8019 make sure the tune you buy deals with all of your deletions. For instance, the DPF has pressure sensors before and after, and it will notice that there's no pressure differential. The ECU will be looking for that DEF system, the EGR, etc. Join my substack at artofdiesel.substack.com and reach out to let me know how your R-class project goes!
@@ArtOfDiesel thanks for replying.
plan on doing a timing chain or tensioner on the om648? would love to see that
Haha! If the car needs it at some point. Perhaps somebody else has one that needs this work in the Cincinnati area and we could make some content out of getting that done.
What did you do to modify your engine?
I deleted swirl flaps, EGR, DPF, and cats. Cleaned out the intake manifolds that were a sorry mess, too. Don't do this if your state prohibits it! I went with a Malone (Tunezilla) tune, but I don' t know if they do deletes, anymore. Today I'd look up Tautvydas Lukosevicius of ECU Tuning Kaunas (in Lithuania) on Facebook to ask what he can do for the OM642. That's who I'm working with on my E320 CDI with the OM648, now.
This is perfect. I'm building 3 motors like that one is for sprinter one for jeep grand Cherokee, GL350
i am having hell of a time to remove the valve covers /cam cover. do you have any suggestion beside slide hammer ? scared of using the cam holes as they have oil passage .Thanks
@sarcotexas, I'm sorry I don't know a better way and I haven't built/tested a tool for the cam holes. Because no gaskets are used and the valve covers are glued on with sealant, they are really on there tightly! Perhaps somebody else will weigh-in with an idea. I've been hunting around the web for other suggestions and I'm not finding any. The only realy discussion of it I've found is in the following location and they adapted a slide hammer. mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/658619-om642-timing-chain-replacement-diy-gl-350-blutech.html#post7079816
If you wind up using a slide hammer, I'd look at putting an insert into that hole, but be careful not to exceed the original hole's depth when drilling and tapping for the insert.
I would just use a prybar between the valve cover, and the valley where the injectors goes, have done it multiple times, just take your time and pry at different points a little at a time.
Muy bueno el video, estoy armando un om642 3.0 cdi y no encuentro referencias para el torque de tapa de cilindros
(Translation: Looking for cylinder head torque on the OM642.) Have you looked around to see if you can find a downloadable copy of the Mercedes WIS (work instruction system)? These guys have a link to get it: www.car-auto-repair.com/mercedes-benz-epcwis-asra-2018-full-free-donwload/
1. We made a lot better timing chain tool
2. Covers lifted from the corner with screwdriver and hummer (carefully)
3. Chinese riveting tool can be easily modified, and no need to remove camshafts.
Hey, I'd like to see photos of that modified chain tool! I figured I would cut it down next time, which I'm sure you did. Still, it'd be cool to see what you did to it!
@@ArtOfDiesel We made it completely different than OEM, check videos on our channel
@@sprintermotors bonjour je suis abonné sur votre chaîne j’ai regardé pas mal de vidéo sur votre chaîne mercis.je voudrais savoir sur un OM642 E350cdi de l’année 2010 Il faut combien de temps de travail pour remplacer la chaîne de distribution? parce que j’ai un souci au premier démarrage dans la journée c’est-à-dire que quelque soit le temps , le matin midi soir lorsque je démarre la voiture pendant une ou deux secondes j’entends le bruit de chaîne ensuite pendant toute la journée aux autres démarrage il n’y a aucun problème ça démarre sans faire du bruit c’est seulement au premier démarrage qui me fait ce bruit Et très rarement le fait pas du tout. je ne sais pas si c’est le tendeur qui a un défaut ou bien je dois faire je dois placer complètement c’est-à-dire il comprit la chaîne et plus le tendeur ? remplacement de l’huile de moteur je suis très soigneux Kiyar depuis que je l’ai acheté (140000km) j’ai toujours fait faire remplacer l’huile entre 4000km à 7000 km et le moteur a maintenant 234 000km
@@alidogansoy8534j’ai lu sur des forums que si tu entends la chaîne au démarrage, le galet tendeur est au maximum donc chaîne trop détendue et faut changer. T’as résolu le problème depuis le temps ?
I admire work done there, however changing timing chain without changing all movable parts where chain is rotating/sliding is waste of time and money…
Generally speaking if chain it self is stretched it’s more likely that other parts of the set must be replaced as well…