3D Printing Nozzle Comparison // 3D Printing Accessory
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- Ever wondered what the difference between an Olsson Ruby and a hardened steel nozzle is? Or what the print quality between a 0.4mm and a 0.8mm nozzle looks like? Get that information and more with Alec's new nozzle comparison video!
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what is wrong with the audio? sounds like he is talking threw his nose... Did you put it threw a tiny band pass filter?
gain too high?
Peter Ellens that was killing me too
Sounds like bad processing rather than bad recording.
glad to know it's not just me. Yeah, sounds blown out/clipped.
he talks like that
Thanks for the thorough explanation. I am brand new to 3D printing, and kept hearing about various nozzles, but I didn't have a clue what any of the various types were for. Thanks for clearing this up for me!
Cool name
Thanks, you really explained it well. I’m trying the MicroSuisse plated brass nozzles to see if I can get the best of both worlds, good conductivity and reasonable wear with aggressive filaments.
Different nozzle sizes are one of those things that you should definitely try at least once. Anyways nice vid as usual. 👍
Aside of the sound it's a very nice video!
Hi Alec, I've just upgraded my CR10S to use a Titan Aero direct drive extruder and I also upgraded to an E3D Nozzle X using 3 mm filament. (PLA and PETG) my question is... How much if any, would I increase my temperature to print?
What is the difference between two M6 (so 6mm diamter thread) nozzles, the V6 type and the Ultimaker type.
Do they actually perform differently? Everything else being the same.
Is that cut-away nozzle model available for download?
Finally found a good nozzle review. Thank you and keep up the great work.
Good review and explanation.
Thank you for very useful information..
great info, the sound is fine to me. Really appreciate the help.
I use an olsson ruby with 0.12 layer height and 20% infill on most things, not an expert as I got the printer recently but it seems as though these settings never fail to produce good results
Newbie question...
about the copper nozzles and better heat transfer properties -what are the indicators that the filament might be under heated? Layer separation?
perhaps, generally just clogging/stopped extrusion IME
Good explanation of how nozzle diameter affects print speed, quality and toughness of the printed piece
th-cam.com/video/c2m4vWNfXc0/w-d-xo.html
I have a Monoprice Maker Select Mini v2, idk if I can change the nozzle on it. If I can, what's the best one to get? I'd like to try to print in carbon fiber.
Mitch Olsen - you can; I’ve got a V1 machine, and I’ve got the Micro Swiss all-metal hot-end kit in it with a Micro Swiss 0.5mm nozzle on it.
I don’t really print for what it looks like so would a bigger nozzle be better? I mostly make working prototypes
I use a 0.5mm nozzle because I'm bad at math and it's easier to design around! :P
Great hack haha
@@fuzzballdasoft5889 now I use a 1mm nozzle with a 0.5mm layer height because I'm bad at math and lazy! 🤣 (matte filament really hides the layer lines)
@@coolstream1 Talk about next level
Man I just want a 0.4 microswiss nozzle with a huge flat spot like the E3D nozzles.
i have a volcano which nozlle to use with abrasive filament
I use .6mm copper on one of my printers, it gets the longer prints that still have to look decent,I like the copper because it allows me to print a little cooler which gives me a warm fuzzy feeling being able to lower the temp 10c for the entire print which can often last days.
.6mm A2 steel on another printer, it gets the carbon fiber filled filaments and wood/other abrasives.
.4mm copper on the delta, allows reasonable print speeds with a standard v6 hotend. Great for smaller prototypes and other prints.
.4mm brass on another, this printer gets used for a petg and PLA, no abrasives fillers nothing high temp. Mostly prints things my wife and kids want.
1mm brass,petg and pla, this is on my largest printer and it gets used for large non-detailed prints and vases.
2x brass .4 on the final printer, for now it's running brass nozzles on the dual nozzle Chimera+. It doesn't print anything that needs a special nozzle and doesn't get used all that often. I do love using any excuse to use it,simply because I just find the dual nozzle cool.
"Its basically indestructible" cue bltouch going wonky and smashing ruby into bed
I wonder how the diamond or titanium nozzle compares.
Advice for a nozzle printing 1.75mm wood filament?
Wood PLA is not abrasive, so you should be fine with a standard brass. But, if you want to start printing with more abrasive materials, upgrade to a hardened steel or Olsson Ruby Nozzle: www.matterhackers.com/store/c/Nozzles
wwhere can i vind matterman
How awesome is the audio. Just Love it broh. keep those standards high!
LOL
I primarily use a 0.4 mm nozzle
Why is everyone so spoiled? Its a good informative video, why is everybody cry babying about stupid non-content related bull? Grow up and appreciate the free help. Thanks for the video.
is there any fixed ratio between layer height and nozzle diameter..plz suggest
No there is not, but in my experience a layer height between 25% and 50% of the nozzle diameter works the best (I have a 0.4mm nozzle and I usually print between 0.1mm and 0.2mm layer height)
You can go under 25% or over 50% (for example 0.05mm layer height or 0.25-0.3mm layer height) but it will be harder to find the correct slicer settings for a good print quality
thanks a lot @stefano rubani
80% absolute max 20% absolute low is how i usually do it
leifjames53 thanks
Nice hat buddy
I wish I’d watched this yesterday before buying my replacement nozzles...
Great tutorial... poor audio engineering
Your Mic is clipping bro. Euh my ears are bleading but nice Video
If they took all that effort into make it ruby, why not go the extra mile and also make it copper instead of brass?
Truth is, no effort involved in either
I remember seeing the Ruby nozzle a while back. I still want one, but they cost almost as much as my printer itself. Well at least the I built from scratch. 😏
The audio is clipped
Good video, except the Rubi nozzle isn't undistructible, I heard of many many people that broke it and they swear isn't a Rubi but a purple glass... So a rip off
It's Ruby. Corundum, like Diamond, is known to be brittle. Hardness ≠ Strength, but confusing them is a common newbie mistake (Of the video's maker)
You can’t compare nozzles with “everything else being the same”. The ONLY correct way is to go through every calibration, and optimize slicer software... then compare. Sorry, these type of comparisons will greatly mislead. It sucks, but it’s true. With changes in nozzle size, the tool width changes, the effects of temperature changes, formulae to correct motion changes. Everything is intertwined. What really happens here is a machine calibrated and optimized for a brass .4 nozzle will tend towards that nozzle being the best choice. Do all the work and see the truth.
WHy dont you address the design flaws? This thing is far from flawless. Soft cheese grade brass, bad thermo conduct on the sapphire.
looking for a printer that will print nylon x out of the box. budget $1500
that neckbeard tho 🤣🤣
NozzleX > ollson ruby in literally every way
That ruby nozzle is overpriced garbage. If you know CAD you can probably order over 50 made-to-order corundum tips (synthetic ruby) from asian synth gemstone manufacturers for the price of one nozzle, and that's exactly what they did.
what a hat :P
First
Bad sound, couldn't watch ;O
blablabla sample blur ... bad test
Broo , the sound is awful , check your 🎤 , if that’s ok , check your “nozzle”