Tyhanks to the instructor & audience, I got everything i needed, I did it by my own! not bad at all for the 1st time, very nice classes! you should open a tutorial or academy to teach have a pleasant 2016
Oh really? So what exactly is the pilot bearing retainer and how did you install it??? There isn't one. Lol. The pilot bearing is press fit into the axle housing.
after getting the crush sleeve with the proper preload, take it out and measure it, then stack up shims to the same thickness and go from there instead of taking it apart multiple times adding shims until you get it right.
I'm going to make the argument you can just install the oil seal (slinger too if you have one) and Locktight the nut - then crush the collar. This way the nut is at the torque required to crush the collar to establish the correct rotational drag. I can't see how you can disassemble and reassemble the assembly, especially considering most old axles require pressing the second bearing and pinion yoke on, without jeopardizing the initial 'crush' of the collar
I think, with a crush sleeve, you won't be able to separate the pinion from it's carrier like what Greg did in the second part where he used a solid spacer with shims. So the seal has to be fitted just after removing the old nut and companion, without dismantling the pinion carrier again.
Hey mate. Im kinda isolated in Thailand. Could I humbly ask a question to u ? Do you have like a facebook or email or something ? Thanks if you can help, great videos !
Thank-you for your very informative video. Why can't you set the bearing pre-load with the seal in and allow 2-5 inch pounds of drag? Crush sleeves should only be used once but if you set the pre-load then remove the flange and install seal and continue with final assembly does this mean you are using a pre-crushed sleeve and just torquing down to 175 ft/pounds?
You CAN set the pinion bearing preload with the seal in place and in fact that's how you're supposed to do it. It's the way the factory service manual says how to do it but everybody likes to come up with there own little incorrect way of doing things.
If you read a service manual there is no tightening torque listed for the pinion nut because you tighten that nut until the crush sleeve is crushed to a point that gives you the listed pinion bearing preload value in inch pounds as you rotate the pinion. You stop tightening the nut and keep checking howmuch force it takes in inch pounds to keep rotating the pinion. It's not the initial reading you get to break away and start it turning either it's after it starts rotating, the inch pounds it takes to keep it rotating. Now if you don't have a crush sleeve style and you have a solid spacer with shims then you torque the pinion nut to the manufacturers specification. Something like a ring and pinion replacement really shouldn't be done by a do it yourselfer because there's more complicated processes involved in setting up the gears properly. If you want to do it though, I'd recommend reading the factory service manual and following those procedures. If you do that the gears will be installed correctly and last 100,000 miles not 500
Francisco, these videos were originally made many years ago. It is still necessary to obtain specs- torque specs, etc, for the rear differential you have. A google search should find the information you need.
I am not certain on a detail regarding the crush sleeve type assembly. If I assemble without a seal using the old nut, all as you described, set bearing preload, then disassemble. When reassembling (final assembly) will I be able to achieve the pinion nut torque without this causing further compression of the crush sleeve? I understand that I would still need to recheck the bearing preload and start over with a new crush sleeve if the preload rotational torque is too great. But what is the chance of that? Do I check rotational torque as I stage up on my pinion nut torque to avoid crushing it more and having to go through the process all over again?
You can use the same crush sleeve. Put a little loc-tite on the nut and get it fairy tight but don't crush the sleeve any more. It's acting as a spacer between the bearings, that you crush to length. If you crush it more you will have premature bearing failure. Not as strong as the spacers since they are engineered to bend a little. I'm guessing they used them in the factory because it would be a lot quicker/cheaper to assemble then having to measure shims for each rear-end.
Yes. New experience and now I understand it does take a lot of torque to compress the crush sleeve. Tightening the nut after installing the seal won't be a problem. However I also noted that the rotational torque resistance on the assembly has virtually no added value with the seal in place. So why not do it all in one pass, I did.
Going for solid crush sleeve, how is he removing the outer bearing without damaging it? I have a decent used brg I drum sanded the inside to slip on. I depth mic checked against the new one sitting on the installed brg cup and adjusted shim pack. It worked, but you'd have to press off the bearing which can damage the rollers. Factory service manual has a chart for end play measurement or torque, and how much shim to remove.
At 1256 in this video you say to torch the pinion nut to 175 foot pounds. Is that using the solid bearing spacer or the crush spacer? When I tighten with a crush spacer the pinion will not turn.
I:50 the tapping your bearing wont work on a lot of pinions.The clearances are so close today a press is used to separate the pinion and bearing .a press is needed
I just removed the pinion bearing on my e46. Outter bearing, I needed 14 tons to press it out. The inner bearing, I had to cut it. Now, tried to install it while heating the bearing and freezing the shaft. Nope.... going to need a press!!!
It's Private did you read my comment? I clearly said that I heated up the bearing and froze the pinion. Still needed a press. It worked on the carrier, but not on the pinion
Thanks a million. great tutorial. learnt a great deal and also rectified quite a few mistakes whilst rebuilding my 9 inch diff. Much appreciated. where can I purchase this vid?
The way I understand what he did, the force required to crush the collar into proper pre-load is much more than the reassembly with new nut at 175 ft/lbs. He wasn't super clear on that point.
I am reassembling 7.5 diff on 98 Ford Ranger using USA Gear bearings. Do I used my old oil slinger? My package did came with new oil slinger, but thinner width wise.
Just wondering, how precise need to be those 15 or 25 in.lbs? Is there any other way to measure this bearing preload without that expensive torque wrench? E.g. 2x15 inch long lever mounted at yoke, 1 lbs weight at the end, tighten until it stops moving.
I don't think you can do that for two reasons. (1) There is a slight difference between static and dynamic torque. The static torque would be what it takes to start the shaft turning, which will be slightly higher than the dynamic torque. Watch his torque meter when he starts turning it (@10:56). It goes up, then comes back down after it gets started moving. Reason #2 would be because this method would only result in 30in*lbs of torque when the torque arm is horizontal and the weight is hanging below it. As the yoke moves around, there is less and less resultant torque applied to the pinion. You could use something like a digital fish scale to measure the torque. just be sure that you keep the scale perpendicular to the bar that's attached to the yoke. Also make sure you calculate what the moment will be based on how long your bar is that's attached to the yoke.
You keep saying to torque ths pinion nut to specification. You're WRONG. There is no torque spec. You tighten the nut until you achieve the rotational torque that you demonstrated.
the video is fine, but the audio is very poor with no improvement as the video progresses, if it was re-done with the audio improved it would be a good informative video that does not leave you with any audio break's in it, so your not missing some of the important info that this video seems to do.
This is by far the best video that describes the preload process and I've seen many of em. Thanks a lot sir.
Absolutely one of the best on website.
Thanks
i just like the old school tools, hand, method and off course the understandable class.
much thanks is not enough.
liked👍
Watching this video I see the difference betwen a person that want to teach and a person that want to show what he or she knows.
Tyhanks to the instructor & audience, I got everything i needed, I did it by my own! not bad at all for the 1st time, very nice classes! you should open a tutorial or academy to teach have a pleasant 2016
This was very helpful. I wouldn't have set my pinion bearings properly if I hadn't watched this. Thank you much!
Chip Wright 6
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Im working on an identical unit so this was very informative. I learned how to install the pilot bearing retainer!
Oh really? So what exactly is the pilot bearing retainer and how did you install it??? There isn't one. Lol. The pilot bearing is press fit into the axle housing.
after getting the crush sleeve with the proper preload, take it out and measure it, then stack up shims to the same thickness and go from there instead of taking it apart multiple times adding shims until you get it right.
That crush washer is tight turning you even hear a toot come out at 6:25
I'm going to make the argument you can just install the oil seal (slinger too if you have one) and Locktight the nut - then crush the collar. This way the nut is at the torque required to crush the collar to establish the correct rotational drag. I can't see how you can disassemble and reassemble the assembly, especially considering most old axles require pressing the second bearing and pinion yoke on, without jeopardizing the initial 'crush' of the collar
Great instructional video, unfortunately the sound is horrible.
was that a fart at 6:25... that is awesome, nothing like tugging on a breaker bar to squeak one out!
Grand Negus: idiot mentions it? that is rather judgemental of my joke.
Derek T yeah I hear that LOL
haha
Hahahaha
@@derekt5216 that's hilarious, I had to go back to see if you were right 🤣
This video is awesome.
Great video other than the static interference! LOL!
I think, with a crush sleeve, you won't be able to separate the pinion from it's carrier like what Greg did in the second part where he used a solid spacer with shims. So the seal has to be fitted just after removing the old nut and companion, without dismantling the pinion carrier again.
Sorry Guys, these videos were made many years ago- part of a library- wish I had the knowledge to chime in.
Hey mate. Im kinda isolated in Thailand. Could I humbly ask a question to u ? Do you have like a facebook or email or something ? Thanks if you can help, great videos !
Thank-you for your very informative video. Why can't you set the bearing pre-load with the seal in and allow 2-5 inch pounds of drag? Crush sleeves should only be used once but if you set the pre-load then remove the flange and install seal and continue with final assembly does this mean you are using a pre-crushed sleeve and just torquing down to 175 ft/pounds?
You CAN set the pinion bearing preload with the seal in place and in fact that's how you're supposed to do it. It's the way the factory service manual says how to do it but everybody likes to come up with there own little incorrect way of doing things.
If you read a service manual there is no tightening torque listed for the pinion nut because you tighten that nut until the crush sleeve is crushed to a point that gives you the listed pinion bearing preload value in inch pounds as you rotate the pinion. You stop tightening the nut and keep checking howmuch force it takes in inch pounds to keep rotating the pinion. It's not the initial reading you get to break away and start it turning either it's after it starts rotating, the inch pounds it takes to keep it rotating. Now if you don't have a crush sleeve style and you have a solid spacer with shims then you torque the pinion nut to the manufacturers specification. Something like a ring and pinion replacement really shouldn't be done by a do it yourselfer because there's more complicated processes involved in setting up the gears properly. If you want to do it though, I'd recommend reading the factory service manual and following those procedures. If you do that the gears will be installed correctly and last 100,000 miles not 500
👍♥️
Francisco, these videos were originally made many years ago. It is still necessary to obtain specs- torque specs, etc, for the rear differential you have. A google search should find the information you need.
I am not certain on a detail regarding the crush sleeve type assembly. If I assemble without a seal using the old nut, all as you described, set bearing preload, then disassemble. When reassembling (final assembly) will I be able to achieve the pinion nut torque without this causing further compression of the crush sleeve? I understand that I would still need to recheck the bearing preload and start over with a new crush sleeve if the preload rotational torque is too great. But what is the chance of that? Do I check rotational torque as I stage up on my pinion nut torque to avoid crushing it more and having to go through the process all over again?
BTW this video series is great and I appreciate you making all the effort to post it.
You can use the same crush sleeve. Put a little loc-tite on the nut and get it fairy tight but don't crush the sleeve any more. It's acting as a spacer between the bearings, that you crush to length. If you crush it more you will have premature bearing failure. Not as strong as the spacers since they are engineered to bend a little. I'm guessing they used them in the factory because it would be a lot quicker/cheaper to assemble then having to measure shims for each rear-end.
Yes. New experience and now I understand it does take a lot of torque to compress the crush sleeve. Tightening the nut after installing the seal won't be a problem. However I also noted that the rotational torque resistance on the assembly has virtually no added value with the seal in place. So why not do it all in one pass, I did.
I did it in one pass when I did my 12 bolt and would have with the 9" had I used a crush sleeve. I went with a solid spacer for the 9".
I just add 5 inch pounds for the drag on the seal.. Also egg some liquid teflon to the spline so it don't seep .Plumbing department has it.
Going for solid crush sleeve, how is he removing the outer bearing without damaging it? I have a decent used brg I drum sanded the inside to slip on. I depth mic checked against the new one sitting on the installed brg cup and adjusted shim pack. It worked, but you'd have to press off the bearing which can damage the rollers. Factory service manual has a chart for end play measurement or torque, and how much shim to remove.
Do you have a a video on brake drums & brake shoe replacement?
so if you use the crush spacer then you don't torque the yoke flange?
How do you use the solid type pinion pinion spacer , do you make it the same thickness as your old crush washer ?
At 1256 in this video you say to torch the pinion nut to 175 foot pounds. Is that using the solid bearing spacer or the crush spacer? When I tighten with a crush spacer the pinion will not turn.
The sound is not good in this video, can you let me know the torque that pinion must have? thanks!
He reassembled it with seal and new nut and then re-checked his preload at the very end.
@@shawngrenaud Thanks a lot !
I:50 the tapping your bearing wont work on a lot of pinions.The clearances are so close today a press is used to separate the pinion and bearing .a press is needed
I just removed the pinion bearing on my e46. Outter bearing, I needed 14 tons to press it out. The inner bearing, I had to cut it. Now, tried to install it while heating the bearing and freezing the shaft. Nope.... going to need a press!!!
It's Private did you read my comment? I clearly said that I heated up the bearing and froze the pinion. Still needed a press. It worked on the carrier, but not on the pinion
But with the Ford 9 inch, you're still good to go using this guy's method,
thats a good demonstration thank you
awesome video.
I always thought that was a Pinion coupling....?
Thanks a million. great tutorial. learnt a great deal and also rectified quite a few mistakes whilst rebuilding my 9 inch diff.
Much appreciated.
where can I purchase this vid?
It's only on TH-cam, now and in the future. Thanks!
@@cartapes1601 what's his name?
Por favor tengo un diferencial de ford explore del año 2003 necesito saber que tipo de baleros o numeros lleva el piñon y la corona .Gracias
hello, I have broken the bearing with code hm09410 hyatt. which code new use for the replacement. Thank you
As Stan posts below does final tighten of nut effect the bearing pre load ?????????
Probably too late now, but you would carefully do the final tighten, checking preload as you turn the nut little by little.
The way I understand what he did, the force required to crush the collar into proper pre-load is much more than the reassembly with new nut at 175 ft/lbs. He wasn't super clear on that point.
Can I use a click or electronic torque wrench to measure the desired torque resistance?
No
patw52pb1 I'd since discovered that and now own a beam torque wrench
The dial-type is best but I've used a click type before. It's just much more difficult.
excellent vids
6:25
Horrible, just tried to punch my bearing on the pinion and the bearing broke.
I am reassembling 7.5 diff on 98 Ford Ranger using USA Gear bearings. Do I used my old oil slinger? My package did came with new oil slinger, but thinner width wise.
I have the same question, what ended up being the right thing, or what did you do?
Just wondering, how precise need to be those 15 or 25 in.lbs?
Is there any other way to measure this bearing preload without that expensive torque wrench? E.g. 2x15 inch long lever mounted at yoke, 1 lbs weight at the end, tighten until it stops moving.
I don't think you can do that for two reasons. (1) There is a slight difference between static and dynamic torque. The static torque would be what it takes to start the shaft turning, which will be slightly higher than the dynamic torque. Watch his torque meter when he starts turning it (@10:56). It goes up, then comes back down after it gets started moving. Reason #2 would be because this method would only result in 30in*lbs of torque when the torque arm is horizontal and the weight is hanging below it. As the yoke moves around, there is less and less resultant torque applied to the pinion.
You could use something like a digital fish scale to measure the torque. just be sure that you keep the scale perpendicular to the bar that's attached to the yoke. Also make sure you calculate what the moment will be based on how long your bar is that's attached to the yoke.
+bluehen03 You can get a beam style in lb torque wrench on Amazon for $40 shipped.
Excellent job, but the audio quality made me just wanna tow my piece of shit to the dealer, holy shit! :-/
100% no se ingles pero entendi todo mejor q.en español grasias
Interesting Stuff
You keep saying to torque ths pinion nut to specification. You're WRONG. There is no torque spec. You tighten the nut until you achieve the rotational torque that you demonstrated.
In the first 10 seconds you say the 3 main components and list about 8 or 9... Next video please
Yeah because they are different versions of the same thing...shithead
Dude are you a robot or have tourettes or something?...I had an aneurism trying to listen to this thing on head muffs! Damn Im crossed eyed now!
the video is fine, but the audio is very poor with no improvement as the video progresses, if it was re-done with the audio improved it would be a good informative video that does not leave you with any audio break's in it, so your not missing some of the important info that this video seems to do.
can't understand what he is saying. The audio is so bad..
Comment 67
The poor audio makes this a useless video. Remember, this is audio/video.
Audio sucks