How To Rebuild a Front Brake Caliper -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2014
- In the past few videos I've been getting my Fairmont ready to take to the drag strip. Since I discovered some brake issues I thought it best to address those. In this video I rebuild the right front caliper. Turns out after I replaced the brake hoses that it was sticking and not releasing. Not wanting to spend the money on a new caliper, I decided to go for a rebuild. Now may of you may question the logic of doing this, especially when you see the caliper piston, but keep in mind my intention is to replace the entire brake system when I upgrade the engine and suspension on this car so it doesn't make sense to make a huge investment in this car as it is now. So for the naysayers, it's temporary, chill out. Either way I hope you enjoy this video and that it helps you if you find yourself needing to rebuild a front brake caliper. It is a cheap alternative IF your piston isn't all corroded. BTW it's not likely your piston isn't going to be all corroded. Good luck.
Camera: Brian Kast
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarguy.com
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I love it Warts and all , losing the ring down the bottle. It's so true when he makes and shares his mistakes that we don't make the same the same ones. Eric's the best.
"It's by hope, that, the other side doesn't get jealous", I really second this, ha ha ha. The most wisest and accurate hope a D.I.Y car mechanic could ask for.
Retired mechanic here giving Eric a big thumbs up! He does these videos to help others....a GOOD guy!....david
Old trucker here . For temporary fix on the piston , clean it real good , heat it up with propane put flux on the pitted area and work in some. Solder,then smooth out it works . KEEP ON TRUCKING ,,!
I bet that would have worked!
If I was working on something that a new piston was not available, I'd probably try plating it and honing it to size. permanently fixed.
glad to see common sense existed 5 years ago
somehow all people in the comment section are okay with the idea, to put that marred piston back in, no repair, no smoothing no nothing. just stick that mofo back in, and call it "temporary"
this video is really poisonous, as its supposed to educate
@@DarkIzo Well you should see Nascar's temporary repairs...
☝🤣
Eric should have purchased and used a new piston, no doubt about it, without question.
I never realized a caliper was that simple. Thanks for the video sir. Keep up the good work.
"penny wise and pound foolish"
Damn that came out swift and was a very nice analogy, great video as well
top man .. my father worked at Dunlop in the UK . brakes . he told me about the small retract function of the seal. In the caliper the seating face has a slight ANGLE on the pressure face . which the seal rocks on .. Well done .. I am now 75 years old and can remember what my father told me . Excellent . I use a special FLEXHONE to clean up the caliper piston bores .. Great video and top man .
Great vid. Amazing how little this detail has changed over the decades.
p.s. Another way re the dust seal, is to fit it into the calliper without the piston, then sit the piston on the top of the seal and then a little puff of low pressure compressed air into the back of the calliper (via the banjo/pipe hole) will blow the seal up and around the piston. Works every time, job done.
Thats interesting, thanks for the heads up on that.
Thanks for that tip. After hours of trying different ways, this worked instantly!
That is the way it should be done you should blow it over so you do not damage it.
Ok
"We never want to put it in dry." Eric the Car Guy, 2014
LAWL
God Bless you Sir, for showing me how to do these things on my own, giving me the confidence to do it, and being someone I trust!
I just watched several videos where the piston almost fell back into the bore with little effort. It's nice to see a realistic video showing the effort I've been going through to try and get that damn piston back in. At first I tried lubricating it with brake fluid - no go. Then I found out about a miracle grease (Red Rubber grease) supposedly used by caliper repair shops - still no go. I used a giant "C" clamp - no go. I don't have a giant Channel Lock so I'm thinking seriously of spending the $ 35 apiece and buying a pair of rebuilt calipers.
Hey Eric! I have watched many of your videos now and am a long term subscriber. From some of the comments it seems that people care more about your personal requirements for the vehicle rather than the invaluable information that you kindly share with us. I just want to say thank you for all the time and effort you put in and I am truly grateful for people like you. I will continue to support your channel as many of your videos have helped with countless car repairs, including this one! keep up the good work :)
honestly you make working as technician seem simple and enjoyable. In some cases fun, It really has me motivated.
Depends as long as your not one of those guys who gets all fired up when something doesn't go his way it can be enjoyable ... I did it for about a year and changed professions I still do everything including customization on my own vehicles but that's all I don't touch other peoples machines anymore unless it's extenuating circumstances. people who know nothing bitch too much. I had a lady go bananas because she needed to replace the caliper after driving so long with it seized that she wore the pads off totally and grinded 1/2 inch groves into the rotor from the caliper pistons... no joke it was into the fins in the centers of the rotors never had i seen something like it prior or since crazy it got to that point.
Eric, thanks for the vid. I prefer to remove the brake shoes completely to keep them clean and dry and free from possible piston impact damage. Just use a piece of scrap 1x4 or similar to catch the piston once you apply air pressure. Less clean up and safer.
I love how he shows his mistakes. Most people would've cut that dropping the seal into the fluid, but Eric shows the whole flapdoodle. Huge respect.
I was thinking "What's he going to do to prevent... THAT!" ...and here I thought he was more experienced than me!
😅👍
Having that hook there putting the seal in the bottle would be the only way unless you put some in a dish. To lube it up.
Kool video when I do brakes on my truck I’ll pull them apart and see if they are rebuildable.
Hey there Eric the Car Guy - thank God for awesome dudes like you who have inspired me - and - been there to help me out when I’m in a jam! Much Love! Hey also stoked that I’ve been able to fix several cars I’ve had including today - was a grease monkey but feeling great now problems fixed!! 🥰
Eric, thanks for this excellent video. It gave me the confidence to rebuild my own calipers and change the discs and pads. I found two things along the way though:
First, I could NOT push the piston in without the special tool. After a frustrating hour I bought that tool (about 40 Euros) and it fits multiple car types/makes. Problem solved. This unexpected purchase meant nothing on the bottom line since the whole operation saved me hundreds of euros (as compared to the official dealership). Secondly, after bleeding the brakes I heard a faint hissing sound from the brake pedal even no more (visible) bubbles remained after bleeding all four brakes. The brakes are working fine though and the sound is audible only when the engine runs. I guess it is the brake booster letting in outside air into the chamber that builds up pressure against the other (vacuum) chamber.
I never knew that the square cut seal was designed to pull the caliper back. What an elegant, simple design.
I know. It acts as a seal and spring. Who knew?
doc phibz Professionals technicians know…:)
You have to SPIN the piston into the square cut seal with the channelocks. Dont just push straight down.
Do NOT try to race any vehicle that only has four lugs per wheel on ANY kind of racetrack !!!!!! Should not even pass tech inspection. And you should know better.
Neal Feero i could be wrong but I am pretty sure he was being sarcastic.
Thanks, Eric. I invested in a car lift to take care of my family's machines and cars. I do not have the first idea about anything. I am completely clueless. Watching your very detailed videos about the basic jobs enables me to keep everything running.
Had a 73 chev pu back around 85. Brought up quick at a red light. Drivers side front wheel locked up. Managed to get about a 100 meters and parked it all day due to some other commitments. Came back around 5 pm. Removed the wheel, took a hammer ,squat and bent back a piece of the steel brake line. Squat again. Drove a flat top between the rotor and pad on the piston side. Drove 230 miles or about 380 km back to home and made good repairs. Moral of the story. Carry a few tools.
Hey let's put this seal right into the bottle, that will be a real quick and easy way to lubricate the seal before installing it..... Thanks for "falling on the sword" for us Eric!! Short cuts, got to love em!! =)
You don't never use brake put on the ceiling to make it swell and you can't give in
Not only are your videos educational, but they are very entertaining to watch. Glad you got a cameraman to help you, hopefully gives you more hands and better time to repair things. Interesting to see how easy it is to change brakepads on that ford compared to my '94 626 mazda.
Thank you, and looking forward to new videos. :-)
Thank you for all you do Eric. I have been watching your videos for several years and they have helped me do several repairs.
Thanks Eric for the insight and general entertainment... always appreciated. It was go to see you go through the complete steps... I am in the middle of (managing a stuck caliper) cleaning, repair / rebuild... a friend asked why I did not just buy a new one. [partly funds] and mostly I wanted just to learn more about wrenching on my Jeep WJ brakes, which when done will be like new... I was torn with it just being a 'collapsed' brake line... which I am replacing both of the 'original looking' brake lines... replacing worn guide pins, re-lubing them, new boots. While doing all of that, I wire brushed and (lightly) painted the wheel hub surface, inner and outer rotor surfaces and will use anti-seized between all mated surfaces and the wheel to eliminate any possibility of 'wheel wobble'. Always, always learning and evolving...
Really good camarawork! Keep that man, Eric
Very informative.....Thanks man Your a good teacher
Important Lesson on this video: " I am not gonna use the wrench impact machine, I'm gonna start it with a couple of thread to go". This is so important to do but not only on that part. It should be with every screw u wanna thread. U can not imagine how much I learned from u. Thanks a lot.
can't believe it's been 9 YEARS since you got the Fairmont. Time freaking flies by
Thank you! I took my piston out using the brake pedal.
YEP!!! If the piston is too much trouble to come out...then...it's time for rebuilt calipers...
same here... a block of wood to limit travel...
Smart!
EricTheCarGuy now with camera man :) very nice... thanks for the video
I started in the automotive repair world in 1972, We rebuilt cal. and wheel cyl on every brake job. One of the older guys showed me to install the dust seal first, lube up the piston with some brake fluid then put it on top of the dust seal and shoot compressed air into the caliper thru the brake line hole. As the dust seal expands upward because you are blocking the air, slide the piston over the seal and down into the bore. Works great just takes a little practise. 49 years in the shop, just retired to school bus driving in Jan 2020.
Thanks for your videos and attention to detail! My stepfather told me he used to rebuild his calipers. I've never done it before but I have some I will experiment on now.
By the way, you can also use a Dremel with a flap wheel to remove the corrosion without removing too much of the piston metal.
I like how you left that part in when you dropped that seal in the brake fluid lol
I’ll have you come come over to pick it it is the day we we aww we can go get get ready wand we rerwwwill w4 is that q
18:52: Eric gets Shakespearean: "I fall on my sword for you".
I used a wire wheel on the piston and a cylinder honing tool on the cylinder when I rebuilt the brake calipers on my 300ZX (Z32) a few years ago. Still braking marvelously. Well worth the effort and saved me about $300!!!
This video still reminder me that you are one of the best TH-camrs on auto repairs
My temporary solutions, more often than not, become permanent...
for now is forever. lol
Especially when you spent hours or days doing it.
Like a government program.
I'm getting this tattooed, lol
Thanks! I always wondered how it is done.
The quality of the sound and video is great. Showing the fine details of what you are trying to show the audience is awesome. Thanks you for this channel.
I always enjoy watching your videos that was a great video on how to overhaul caliber as I am retired from Chevrolet for 30 years as a brake specialist and anything I could get my hands on from Southern California
great tutorial :) though here in the uk, on average, a new calliper cost on average about £120+, but a full rebuild kit for both callipers including new pistons, is around £40, so you can save quite a bit of money if you're willing to put a little time and effort into it :) and its always great to have that satisfaction, that you fixed it :)
Eric, you forgot to make your callipers "Mighty Car Mods Certified"! you need to paint them red!
As usual a bit of priceless insight @ 10.00 about how the seal causes to pressure to release off the pads after applying the brakes. Been wondering about that for years. ty Eric.
I watch all the car videos on youtube and yours are right near the top. But I really noticed your comment about the "other side getting jealous". Oh so true. Don't do something to one vehicle and not the other because the next time you want to drive the other vehicle she will not start or some other calamity will take place. You are truly experienced.
FYI to people watching this video, you may want to consider rebuilding your own calipers. I went to autozone to get a replacement caliper and it turns out they just use the old pistons (same with O'Reilly...probably Pep Boys too). So if you buy a remanufactured caliper there you are paying for a caliper that has been cleaned and given new rubber boots BUT it's the same old pistons. I found that the pistons in the re-man at autozone were removed by an idiot...they were all scratched up and dented. My pistons were in way better condition so I just rebuilt the caliper which truly was not very difficult even though I have a 4-runner and each caliper has 4 pistons. If you can get a re-man with a new piston it might be worth it, but IMO I think you're better off rebuilding the one's you have.
So true!!
their parts are junk I bought a duralast remanufactured rear caliper from them last week, because my rear right parking break wasn't working and it wouldn't pass state inspection like that, so i installed the "new" duralast caliper and it didn't work at all, so I went to the junkyard and got a working caliper ( i tested it while it was on the car) for about 10 bucks, and installed on my car and all is fine.
Autozone wouldn't give me a refund for the "remanufactured" P.O.S duralast caliper because I "installed" it......one of the employees even had the nerve to tell me the part i was returning wasn't from autozone because it had a ford logo on it and he claimed that "duralast doesn't make" calipers with "ford" logos T_T
Lesson learned, avoid autozones "reman" parts.......I should have went to the junkyard in the first place, only money I got back was the core.
With those iffy rebuilds, I wonder if it might be a good idea to check for smooth action on the piston before going ahead and installing it. Push out the piston with the compressed air part of the way, then see that it will slide back in smoothly without hanging up. Have to be really careful not to blow it out of the bore completely though, so either use a pad retraction tool or put it over the old rotor with old pads to limit the travel.
Was getting ready to buy a pair of AutoZone reman calipers & stumbled across this video & posts. So... I went on to www.autozone.com 10 minutes ago & opened an online chat with a rep, asked about their Duralast remanufactured calipers, part #'s D6028 & D6029: "Can you tell me what caliper components are replaced/reconditioned, specifically with this reman caliper? Does the caliper get a new piston, as well as square-cut seal & dust boot?" The response from AutoZone representative "Omar" was as follows: [Omar] "The calipers get a new piston, seals, and dust boots on the piston." So, trying to sort fact from fiction in the comments above, the options seem to be as follows: Either A), You had a uniquely bad experience, inconsistent with Autozone's stated rebuild practices for these parts, b) Autozone has changed its practices to include new pistons, not old (as you claimed) since your original post, or C), Omar, from Autozone just lied to me about their remanufacturing process for their DuraLast calipers. seems unlikely. UPDATE: 11/4/17, I bought the Autozone calipers, haven't installed yet, but they look (not OEM, but) decent enough. We'll see. UPDATE: 7/22/20: Back in '17, I swapped the pair of front calipers for an Auto Zone rebuilt set in my ‘08 C350. Akebono Ceramic pad set. No problems over 2 years/20kmi later. By feel, perform just as good as OEM. YMMV.
you really think they will tell you they use the junk old caliper with what thye charge, come on get real, the person wprobably doesnt even know
@@edvanhalen9056 Dunno anything about Autozone or Omar, but AFAIK pistons don't have bushings. The caliper might have them for the pins to slide onj
Hope that pitted piston sealed ok eric, as you said its just temp so no need to go mad :-))
Smashing video, as allways :-))
dont understand why you didnt try to smooth it up with a little emery paper or fine grit sand paper or even a wire brush wheel. the seal makes up for the tolerance if it slides freely
Eric the car guy, you are bad ass. I enjoy all your videos! Thank you.
Thanks for the memories. I have many memories of working on the simpler cars when I was younger.
very good camera work!
Great video, I've done it myself before. I have a couple of tips, first one when putting the new rubber on, is to be sure to do it right. If it starts getting hard to do or taking time, the rubber will likely take some damage. The rubber is easy to put in place, it should not pop up again and again.
Second tip is when the cylinder is being pushed into the caliper, it will likey get stuck because it doesn't come in straight. Try rotating the cylinder or pushing it the right way, you should feel when it settles straight and then it's easy to press into the caliper.
My conclusion of this work is if the jobs get done without struggles you are probably doing it right!
First of all - Eric the Car Guy is the man - THE MAN - something about your vids and communication that make it feel like I am going to "make it through" a tough job - With this vid as my inspiration - I sorted out a very sticky wheel on an '08 Impala that I had just acquired - hub was heating up big time, was undriveable - but I wanted to share what the problem ultimately was - having seen this vid, I took the caliper off and rebuilt it, easy b/c Eric's vid is grrreat - but, wheel was still funky - wtf - shook my head for a bit, noticed as I tightened the cal bracket, it was a little askew - finally realized there had to be something in the caliper slide (its a 15yo, 175K car - so its seen stuff) sure enough, an old piece of slide boot was in there causing the bracket to be "out of square" upon tightening and for the top corner of the pads to contact the rotor at all times (pads were worn unevenly, that shouldv tipped me off but I thought that was due to lack of lube (silicone of course :)) - fished the piece of rubber out (used a drill bit actually (by hand)) and she was right as rain - all due to Eric the Car Guy's guidance - remain calm and just do what he says!
Hey Eric, love your videos brother. Helps a lot of us out saving money. I usually let my rusty and corroded parts sit in vinegar over night. Comes out looking like new.
This video was very professional
So professional, what are you laughing for.
Hey Eric! I just finished this in my driveway with he best success I've ever had working on cars. Thank you so much for your guidance :) I found a couple tricks myself too- for instance (if you leave the caliper connected to the brake line) simply loosening the bleeder valve allows the piston to go back into caliper without compressing air. Also when I bled the brake, I kept the vice grip on the hose, applied pressure to the brake pedal, and loosened the bleeder until all the air was out and the brake fluid flowed freely. (one or two tries to be sure). Took her for a test run and couldnt be happier. Made me feel much happier after two days of dwelling on all this donald trump crap.
Thanks again!
obey your president
Hey Eric I googled this and another video came up but I was disappointed.
Yours is so much more detailed …thank you
Thanks for your video Eric, had some really good tips like the one for setting the dust ring, that will help me this weekend on my caliper re-build. Going for a re-build as they are Brembo calipers and silly money to replace. I expect you already know, but a little trick I have found is to carefully use a G-clamp to push the piston back. It doesn't 'mar' the edges of the piston and damage the dust seal, and also provides a nice linear push to ensure the piston is pushed in nice and square!
I have always used a C clamp to compress the caliper
Same here I also use a brake piston tool
I prefer C-Clamp style locking pliers like those made by Irwin/(Vice Grip 6R)
C clamp won’t push the piston out
great job !! I normally rebuild the caliper while they are on the car use use pedal pressure to force the piston out.
Same here. Came out easily.
I needed this video, it came right on time. Your how to find a leak video also helped me yesterday too! Found a leak in the trunk of my Cressida with the thought of your video in the back of my mind, explained some rust too. Also cameraman Brian had some great shots. Keep it up guys
really good video! Thanks Eric. I've got a brake replace kit to fit this weekend and this video really helps. The one thing I was nervous about was the brake bleeding but I've found out my calipers are isolated so each can be bleed independantly.
i blew a piston out with an airline once it shot past my head like a bullet and put a massive dint in the workshop roof. the boss was not happy.
I usually put a block of wood in between the piston and the caliper body, works real good,man, its unnerving when those things pop out,Ive done about 10 calipers in my life and everytime i pop one i really have to get ready for it,lol, BANG!!!
I'm not proud of this; but air wasn't cutting it... so looking across the shop for a solution. I saw a half full 10lbs nitrous express bottle... Clean brake! Haha on two of my fingers, and shattered the majority of my ring finger! But the piston came out of that bore!!!
@@southtown2366 JACKAASSSSSS
@@americancitizen1885 bicycle or foot pump will also work, bit more work obviously, but is safer as well!
@@americancitizen1885 I didn't think about all that and pressed the brake (to start a car to check on smth. during some works on it) when the brakes were removed. Later I noticed a cylinder in the caliper. I tried to push it back into the caliper, the cylinder turned and fell down on the floor along with some brake fluid going in all directions. I guess this is the method, don't know if this will work on all the models. Make sure to release the banjo bolt first and put some rug around the piston before removing it. Car is 2001 Saturn SL2.
Love the New Camera Guy
Thank you for your videos EricTheCarGuy, I really learned a lot with you, even when you do something wrong, because you always say what you are doing wrong and you don't cut out "bad moments" on your videos, I really appreciate your work, and for those that always posting their comments complaining about this and that, guys put there some links with your procedures, I will love to see if all of you never jump some steps/procedures or even do some mistakes. PEACE
eric,this video is very precise that make things easier for me to work on. I enjoy knowing how things works and able to do it on my own,even its a lot easier for me to have it done. I hope you are always there making videos for us. best of health for you and family! thank you!
si le das vuelta al piston entra mas facil y evitas danar la liga
saludos!
Wet fine grit sandpaper to clean up piston.and every time you do brakes rote piston it keeps it from wearing on one side
exactly
also, I like to use that fine grit sandpaper in the piston bore...
I- for one- much enjoy cameraman Brian. Past videos (pre-Brian) were *more* shaky; His work allows you to better perform tasks that require *TWO* hands to do properly. As you pointed out- this video is just merely an informative "quick fix"- and not a "professional" job. That said- given the low cost of new (or a rebuilt unit) it is false economy to waste labor on obviously worn or damaged parts; but the information gleaned from this video is well worth the experience. Thank you very much for all you do for us- ETCG & Brian.
Awesome video. I never realized rebuilding calipers was so straight forward and simple. I will be taking some calipers apart for sandblasting and powdercoat in the near future and this video confirmed I should have no issue doing so. Thanks
Eric, y u no paint it red for the +25 KW??
+Billy Holcroft.. haha mighty car mods rocks !!
fuck yeah
That only works in Australia. Here in Merica red calipers only add 10 hp.
Well i live in South-Africa. Here we dont use calipers. Cause brakes are for pussies.
😂😂😂
I'm not enjoying the flying camera as well. Video content is still very good :)
I appreciate the practical approach you have in this one. Just trying to get a failing part back to working order on the cheap.
Really enjoy watching your videos. Great teacher and well done. You've taught me a lot. Much gratitude from Alabama
Replace the piston. The piston returns back because the vacuum. When you pres the brake pedal you create pressure, when you take the foot off you create suction.
You got it, that is why the rubber lines when they go bad suck together.
No this is not true, it's vibrations that work the Piston back into the caliper as you drive down the road. When a brake line gets plugged it's because the inside is deteriorating and a flap comes loose folds over and plugs the hose.
You have springs inside the master cylinder that pulls the fluid and pistons back, not vibrations lol.
@@hjonedmonds not true oh, I guess you have never rebuild a master cylinder or you would know when the brake pedal is released a valve is activated to allow the pressurized fluid to return to the reservoir. There is no suction involved there is simply pressure than pressure released and the vibrations from the rotor loosen the calipers hold on the brake pads.
Don Dakota I have rebuilt master cylinders for forty years and I have yet to rebuild one without a return spring that pushes the piston back which in turn pulls the fluid back.
Use a large "C" clamp to seat the piston back in the bore. Channel locks are "NOT" the right tool for the job.
With a thin block of wood or wood paint stirrer.
Wow 4 videos i have used now from you to tell me what to do, awesome. You do 100% percent of the car, in videos. Good job sir.
Great video, that shows us less informed tinkerers how a caliper works on the inside. Don't pay any of the negative comments too much attention, the way I see it the video still served it's purpose which is learning how to rebuild a caliper as opposed to buying a new one.
7:39: "Yeah, that part's kinda cool."
not if you got a finger there!
Proper tongue placement is crucial.
Especially as the groove is specifically there for that purpose :)
this sounds extremely dirty...tongue and groove
If you have rust/pitting you have moisture. When I was a kid master cylinders weren't see through plastic reservoirs. You had to pull the cap to see the level. Most people pulled them alot and topped off the level. EVERY time you pull the cap you introduce air with new moisture. Yes air contains moisture class. A brake system/caliper master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc... if not tampered with by letting in moisture, will last alot longer. The level drop is an indication of brake pads wearing and fills the caliper cup until you replace the pads and push or remove fluid from caliper.
For some reason I imagined that the square seal had a bevel on the piston side so it had an "up" and a "down" orientation. Glad I reviewed this before driving myself nuts a week or two from now!
Is it possible to fill in the pitting on the piston with something like quiksteel or jb weld, then sand it down, especially being a temporary fix?
OMG! Really?
yes I've used liquid metal compound to do this but you have to prepare the cylinder by giving it something to key to - really needs to be plunged with an end mill to remove all affected area - not something to might do with something so small (then ground to size), on larger bore situations it works very well but I've only used it as a temporary solution. Maybe having metal electrolysis to add some meat then having it ground finished to size - again though you have to decide if it's worth the cost.
Cleaning the pitting out with acid then using solder works great too. The same process of grinding it down. Then just polish it smooth.
why not just get a new piston? theyre not $$$...
Way too much effort considering a new/rebuilt caliper isn't very expensive. I could see wanting to do this if you have a classic and it still has the original calipers in it, though.
no auto shop rebuilds calipers especially with how cheap new ones are, only time i rebuilt one was in tech school
Dealers to rebuild calipers, warranty usually will not pay to replace them unless the caliper body is damaged somehow. Also some shops to rebuild calipers, I myself have done hundreds of them. I've also rebuilt many wheel cylinders as you can often do them without messing with rusted brake lines.
Most/many people watching this are not from an auto shop...
Great vid. thanks for all the details, you make this look easy, im going to try this, and check my piston before i go order a new/rebuilt caliper
Really helpful brake video. Nice camera work Brian, nice long shot from inside the car and another from by the front grill
All things being equal, if you had replaced the piston with a new one, would this have been a rebuild you would have done for a paying customer and be happy with the results?
I would have replaced the caliper for a 'paying' customer.
EricTheCarGuy I am with eric no one rebuilds anything anymore. I know they teach how to rebuild things in automotive school but no one got the time or interest in rebuilding any automotive part. I am pretty sure new upcoming techs dont even know how to rebuild a carburetor
MrChubhub22
A $12 kit will repair a Toyota starter almost every time it fails. Or you can buy one for $80. A $15 kit for the alternator. If replacing the two seals and the piston will fix the caliper, it is better than spending $80 for the rebuild.
acoow I meant as for a paying customer. if you rebuild things these days you will reach prices similar to buying a complete part. I do agree if it is for your own personal parts that you are doing, its ok to rebuild anything. but not for paying customers.
$30 is nothing for a caliper when in the UK calipers even for small cars are at least £70 which equates to around $118
That of course is the price for a cheap rebuilt caliper on a common car, many cost much more. I once replaced four-wheel calipers on an early 80s GM luxury car, I think it was a Buick Riviera but I don't remember for sure and one of the bleeder screws broke off. A remanufactured caliper cost $270 back then and the core charge of $150. We ended up buying a used caliper from a junkyard for $30 but could not get the bleeding screw out of it either even using heat and the junkyard wouldn't take it back because we tampered with it and eventually broke the screw again. We ended up buying the rebuild caliper and the supplier contacted the manufacturer and agreed to buy the junkyard caliper from us for $50 which I assume was a bargain considering they were asking $150 core charge, so we made a little money from the junkyard caliper to make up for all the wasted time, but some cars or not so cheap to service. If you want a car that's cheap to service make sure to get something that's mass produced so aftermarket parts are plentiful as well as used parts.
Back before the internet, calipers were expensive. Parts in general were expensive. Nowadays you can buy a rotor for the cost that most places will charge you for turning your old one. Local parts stores stay in business for three reasons: people that need a part right now and can't wait to order it online, mechanics and garages that don't care what the price is because they're passing the cost onto the customer (Scotty Killmor) and people that don't have internet (old people and poor people.)
I like the more detailed videos like this. Real World, that is what people need to see. Great Job! I am always excited to see a new video from you.
thanks again eric i never realised the square seals helps the piston to return. I always thought was just the slides that seized that caused the lack of return. Excellent information.
this is a 79 domestic so you should break out your standard sockets 7/16 in. over a 11 mm and 5/8 in. over a 16 mm.
ʇɥƃᴉɹlɐ ʇou ɯᴉ cool name, but metric rules :D
Not necessarily, the SAE declared that New Automobile designs starting 1980 model year would be designed in Metric. Some manufacturers that began designing in 1979 or even in 1978 for 1980s models thought it wise to do any clean sheet designs in metric from the get go- IE GM X Cars (1979).Unable to verify the Ford Fairmont standard, I'd say it was metric because it came out in 1978 with a long projected model run (Until 1983) well into the Metric age.
How does moisture make its way into the piston area causing it to rust? Would regular brake fluid changes prevent this from happening?
Yes it would. Brake fluid attracts water, as it does the water rusts away at the metal parts, well the brake fluid becomes acidic eating away at the seals. This is why the fluid can turn black (seals) or brown (rust). So changing it like you should will prevent brake failure.
Jose Lozano Ah, thanks for the information. I'm religious with my fluid changes and do it all myself, but when it comes to brakes I just don't think of doing it. I've never had any brake problems though, so I guess I should give a few knocks on something that's hard and wooden lol.
Yes, regular brake fluid changes would help. Brake fluid attracts water naturally. It's also good to change brake fluid to make sure your boiling point stays up where it's suppose to be. The more moisture, the lower the boiling point.
Indeed both of you are right. Regular brake fluid changes will reduce or eliminate the damage done by moisture, but it does pull in moisture from it's surroundings, even in a totally sealed system like a brake system or power steering system, transmission etc. Hence the reason for changing it out, even if it is clean looking every couple of years. Metal is porous as is plastic, just not on a visible level, but under a microscope, they are certainly porous and as such can pull moisture in from the environment. Which in turn corrodes metals and turns the fluid acidic and eats seals. Lesson 1 in proper vehicle maintenance. CHANGE THOSE FLUIDS! It will save you TONS of repairs, unexpected breakdowns and money down the road. I've seen the difference and it is HUGE! Change your fluids and you will remain trouble free and richer in the future. Fluids are DIRT CHEAP by comparison to new parts. No reason not to. Keep a log/history of your fluid changes and mileage and when they are due. There's even an app for that! Lol.
***** hydroscopic is the word your looking for:)
Thanks for all your videos, I don't have the tools or space to do many of the projects you have shown, but at least I have the knowledge if I wanted to tackle them.
Thanks Eric. Tried replacing dust boot on 2001 Ford Taurus, it was paper thin, I'd just about get it on and it would tear apart. I don't like using screw drivers on rubber seals, punches small holes that you don't notice. I grind old paint brush and small wire brush handles to form as needed. You can also buy brass rod stock and cut and beat to form.
You would think parts companies would make the pistons from stainless. Planned failure?
a lot of newer pistons are a phenolic material and do not have this issue
mikemanmade on a 80s fairmont ..
They have a lot of problems with them swelling.
Pistons are rarely made out of steel anymore so this issue is old. Even when this classic car was made many manufacturers were moving away from metal Pistons. In fact the Chrysler rebuild kit from Mopar includes a replacement piston, I can't be sure what materials are made out of but they appeared to be similar to Bakelite. I'm sure modern technology has better alternatives today
@@dondakota920 The pistons in the calipers in my 2010 Honda Civic are definitely steel. The old pistons were quite rusty in the part that's exposed, but the part that's covered by the rubber boot and cylinder was pretty much free of rust. Next time I replace the pistons I'm gonna cover the exposed parts with high temperature grease to give it a bit more rust protection.
Cameraman needs a tripod.
The tripod needs a cameraman too. Love story.
Love watching your videos. You have helped me on many many occasions.
I LOVE that he shows his mistakes, because EVERYONE makes mistakes. Some are just more disastrous than others :P
heh heh...You said,"put it in dry."
crimping the brake hose is not good for its life span.. fair warning for ever follows this guys advice
joeyf504327 I agree 100%. Never crimp a brake line. Other than that this repair video is good.
planning to take off my calipers in a couple days for some refurbishing, how would you recommend preventing the system from draining after disconnecting the hose? i heard something about holding the pedal in but I'm not entirely sure if that's the only thing needed. thanks in advance
bendan2505 put a brick on the pedal, then open the banjo bolt on the caliper. And you can use some polythene or something to put in that brake line, it will at least slow down the leak while you work. Best way is to get a guy, tell him to hold the brake line opening shut with his fingers, this is the best way.
A brick is a good idea or even just a piece of wood that you can put between the seats and pedal and pull the seat far enough forward to push the pedal down 1.5-2inches. there is a "compensation port" in the master cylinder that allows fluid to enter the system from the reservoir as pads wear. When you push the pedal slightly it will cover the hole which functions similar to when you have a straw in a drink and you put your finger over the hole at the top and the fluid can't escape. Hope this helps 🙂
@@bendan2505 my advice is to allow them to drain so you get all of the old brake fluid out of the system and the reason the inside of the caliper was so Rusty is because moisture getting into the fluid, which will also cause spongy pedal when hot. You can also wrap the end of the hose in a plastic bag using a rubber band, this will prevent excessive leaking but you will have some. Brake fluids pretty cheap though and like I said it's good to get the nasty fluid out. I also like to wipe out the inside of the master cylinder reservoir before refilling it. If you have one of the plastic reservoirs you can get a pair of hemostats and a small cloth to dab the inside of the reservoir clean. If you're rebuilding your calipers I made another post today about how to installed the dust seal first then use compressed air to stretch it out around the piston and you can assemble a caliper in a couple minutes instead of a half an hour.
Eric, I love your channel you are awesome. As you know there are always multiple ways to do something and I want to share the way I do it, not saying my way is right and your way is wrong, you simply have to do it the way that works for you. I install the seal in the caliper first then hold the piston in place just above the seal before blasting air into the caliper from where the brake line connects. This will cause the seal to balloon out and jump up on the piston, after you've done a few of them you can do this and just a couple seconds and as soon as it jumps up you push the piston in and slam bam you're done. I suggest you try it sometime once he get used to it you will be amazed at how much easier it is to rebuild a caliper this way. Of course this method works better with single-piston calipers, if you have multiple piston you will have to install the other piston 4 Pistons without the seal and block them in place so the air is directed at only the Piston you are installing. Then after you install one piston you remove the others one at a time install the CEO put the Piston back in and continue whether it's a 2/4 or 6-piston caliper, however you have to fabricate a tool which could be as simple as a piece of wood to hold the Pistons in place so they are pop out while you're trying to get the seal around the piston. I've done these your way before until about 30 years ago when an old-timer should me this trick. I am now a retired Master auto technician having worked at many dealers both before and after cars where run by computers which means I've installed as many ignition points as I have running cars for codes and I worked on both mechanical and electronic fuel injection systems. In my career I watched many experience mechanics wash out because they couldn't keep up with the technology so I made it my point to never stop learning new stuff. I'm now a huge fan as you bring back a lot of memories of my lifelong career
Thanks for the great video. Getting to see the nasty screwed up piston really helps us know what to look for!