Voigtländer 23 mm F1.2 Nokton X-Mount - Manual Mode
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I talk about learning how to slow down and use manual focus with the Voigtlander Nokton 23mm f1.2 lens. This fully manual lens has the connectors on it to give the camera EXIF data about each image taken which can help you learn what it is you're doing with manual focus. Coupled with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, this lens makes the act of photography even more enjoyable because I am learning how to hone my craft.
If you're just starting out and need a little guidance and inspiration, this might be the video you're looking for. But hopefully there's some parts in here that will resonate with seasoned photographers who have already discovered the joys of manual focus mode. CHAPTERS 00:00 Intro 00:20 Why I picked this lens 01:04 Manual focus
CHAPTERS
00:00 Introduction
00:20 Why I Chose This Lens
01:02 Manual Focus
02:39 Focus Peaking
03:05 Zone Focusing
04:15 My A-Ha Moment
05:42 The Lens Did What I Wanted
06:14 Astonishing Low Light Performance
07:09 Not Technical Enough to Know if it's Bad
08:09 I'm Still New to This
08:41 Thank you!
08:54 Sample Video from the Lens
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Denver represent! I just go the Voigtlander 35mm, also my first manual focus lens and am loving it!
Looking to add this 23mm at some point hopefully! Enjoy the glass!
5280! Thank you for the comment, sounds like no matter which lens, people like Voigtlander.
Great video ! loved the parking cone analogy and it makes a lot of sense to think about zone focusing in that way.. Thanks !
Thank you!
Nice job on the video Chris. Like a lot of Fuji owners...I love the new Fuji 1.4 series lenses. The downside of them however is size and size is one of the main reasons I switched from Nikon to Fuji five years ago. Keep in mind the 23 and 35 1.2 X mount Voigtlander lenses are purposely designed to have a vintage look and are softer when shot wide open. The other lenses in the Voigtlander lineup are made to be sharp wide open. Even though I lose the EXIF data, I like to use either Leica glass or the regular Voigtlander glass (with the Fuji brand adapter) on my X-T5, as I can then use them on different camera bodies using different adapters. For traveling, I love the smaller lenses. An X-T5 (or X-E3) with a couple manual focus Voigtlander lenses makes for a really small kit.
Agreed. I haven’t gone down the path of adapters yet but I feel it’s inevitable. I recently got the TTArtisan 50mm for cheap and it’s a great little lens without EXIF data. So I’m comfortable enough with manual focus and already given up the data, might as well try out some vintage small lenses.
keep shooting with it for as long as you can till you memorize all the focusing zones on this beauty, I bought it and started using it exclusively and first thing I noticed that it focuses past infinity and I know now where is my infinity and still have so much to learn on this lens and I am sooo happy that I bought it, oh I switched the focus scale to pixel for more accurate zone
That is great advice, thank you!
I found that focus peaking was actually more distracting. For my eye, it is much easier punching in and focusing. I have the 35mm Nokton Classic II for M mount adapted to my fuji and I absolutely love it. Even with the adapter it is super compact and the focus tab makes focusing so easy and actually enjoyable.
I can see how it could be distracting, especially red. For me, where I found it to be most useful, was when I was trying to take pictures of the night sky through the OVF using the little ERF window in the lower right corner. I could see clearly the red mark on the outer edge of the moon and that gave me confidence that I had the right focus. Thank you for the comment!
@@ChrisFreitag
I have also found it unfortunately distracting. If it were possible in the Fuji dual display window to have focus peaking showing only in the smaller window that would be great. Unfortunately it appears in both. Thank you for the very interesting video.
@@mikearst2940 Which camera do you have? That's exactly the way it works on the X-T5 on the latest firmware.
Great to hear from someone using an adapter with this lens, I've been thinking of this.
@@LandonEpps The X-T4. I'm glad to hear that's how it works in the newer camera. Thanks for that information. I'm also hoping that in the X-T5 they have made it possible, when you are using only the EVF with eye control, to see the menu on the large monitor rather than only in the EVF. Probably too much to hope for.
Really happy to see your experience with this lens and how candidly talked about your learnings with the lens.
I’ve been surprised how much my other fantastic Fuji prime lenses have been sitting in my bag since I bought the Voigtlander. I never expected to love a manual lens quite this much.
I still either use mine with the OVF and use the little ERF for focusing, or I’ll use the EVF and have the camera set to both punch-in and peaking.
I do wish the lens has a focus tab though, and I may try an add-on tab - either the adhesive type or the neoprene ring type.
I have been using my OVF more, funny enough. Ever since my night with the Perseids in pitch black and the EVF was too bright to see anything on my X-H2 and the X-Pro3 and manual focus came to the rescue. I use the OVF with the ERF and I’m getting very comfy.
Thanks for sharing your experience on the lens and MF with the Fuji. Would love to hear more about the latter as you progress. Great photo examples as well.
Thank you for the response! I will keep updating as I learn.
Looks like a great lens. I agree about the vintage look and feel. I may have to give it a go. Nice job!
Thank you! This lens is slowly taking the spot as my favorite for the X-Pro3. I reach for it more than I reach for my beloved 35mm 1.4
Thank You for this video. Your "cone" vision made me gain a lot of time ! I will test next week this lens with an XT-3 and an XT-5, to see if there is a huge difference usins 26 Mp or 40 Mp sensor. Thanks.
I’m glad you enjoyed it! Good luck with your testing.
Please share your thoughts and tips about manual focusing, things to try.
Great video. I'm on the same journey with my xpro3. Trying to slow down and 23mm will be my next lens.
Thank you for your feedback! I think you'll enjoy the lens.
I like the story. Voightlander looks like an awesome lens. I learned backwards from being too cheap to buy the native Fuji lenses and had to teach myself on cheaper manual focus. Agree 100% focus peaking is the way to go
Thanks for sharing! Certainly a good way to learn manual focusing, by only having manual focusing lenses 😀
Excellent video 😊!
Thank you!
Servus Chris,
you actually have what I thought would be my perfect lens-camera-combination and I have to admit that I'm a little bit jealous.
Anyway, recently I grabbed a Voightländer 15mm f4.something for another system (apsc) and it is unbelievably fun to use on a sunny day. It's never been easier to shoot that close with an ease.
However, f1.2 at night is a different league. Congratulations handling this.
Great video, by the way. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the encouragement! It’s a great camera/lens combo, I enjoy just picking it up and walking around with it.
I've recently started adapting my old canon fd Lenses. Especially in bad lighting when I'm out with friends, manual focus is just faster and more reliable than the old a6000 autofocus. And also with weird or interesting reflections manusl focus really helps to focus on this one plain you want in between all the others
Thank you for your comment! I have been using it more and more, even getting a cheap 50mm manual lens from TTArtisan that turned out to be great. I haven’t gotten into adapters yet but I think it’s inevitable.
Thanks. Good video.
Thank you
great video!
Thank you!
Nice vid, Chris. Something to be said about manual focus.
Thank you!
I was concerned about field curvature issues reported by other people, but I don't find it yet on my lens. Maybe I'm not looking or maybe it is not as distracting. I really like the 23 1.2, so much that I'm considering selling the Fuji 23 1.4. I tried 35, but for me it eas a bit too hard to manual focus. For the tips - if you shoot in black wnd white, it is very easy to see focus peaking. Also, if not using zone focusing, I always start focusing from infinity, as it seems it is easier to "catch" focus zone if it is "coming" at you.
Funny you should mention the 23mm 1.4, I had it for about 3 days and I really liked it. It felt like the identical cousin to the 35mm 1.4 in its character and quality. But because of that, I didn’t want to have two lenses so similar, making it difficult to choose based solely on focal length. That is when I thought to look at manual lenses. I had that in the video but that bit was cut for time.
Thank you for the infinity advice. That one is noted in the memory now for when I take it out next!
I’m tempted to buy this one although I already have and love my 23 1.4
They’re just different in their approach. I had the 23 1.4 for about 3 days before returning it and opting to go this route. In the 3 days I had that lens, I got some images that felt every bit as great, I was just looking for something a bit smaller. I think the photos you’d get would be similar. Maybe try one of their other focal lengths?
Really great lens. I have the 35mm version, it's even more characteristic wide open and can have a vibrant flares.
Definitely have my eye on Voigtlander for future lenses. Glad to hear those characteristics are carried through.
Sounds like you have it nailed. I have a trio of Voightlander lens for my Canon RP and use the techniques you described. My Canon lens stay at home. I am pretty much into light and nimble kit. When I get crumy images I know it is my fault and that simplifies trouble shooting my routine. Manual focus is not "old fashioned". I believe most if not all cine lenses are manual focus.
Thank you! Which lens focal lengths do you have? I agree, when I don’t get focus it’s 99% me being in too much of a hurry.
I am investing more into my Fuji system for my photography and my TH-cam channel and I am looking around for different lenses that won't break the bank. I am wondering, it is quite good at night for static subjects but how does it behave when you have to manually focus? What is your hit vs miss ratio?
I’d say at the beginning I was about 2:1 hit to miss. But now I’m closer to 5:1 if I’m using zone focus and moving. I actually haven’t tried night plus movement. I had one specific event that was happening at night where a band was playing on a bar patio and I was too afraid my zone focus skills weren’t good enough so I tried focus peaking and every single one of the images were out of focus because of movement. So I need to trust what photographers before me have learned, I should have trusted zone focusing because I might have gotten 1 or 2.
I dont use focus peaking that much, unless I'm shooting wide open. For narrow apertures, I rely on dof scale in viewfinder.
You know I don’t use that much, maybe I’ll have to give it a try
Great video. I have a X=T4 and have been using primarily Fuji lenses until recently I've picked up two Voigtlander lenses, which I absolutely love. The MACRO APO-ULTRON 35mm F2 is great and the images are really sharp. Another one, which I think you will also absolutely love on the X-PRO3 is the pancake-like ULTRON 27mm F2. It's sharper than the NOKTON lenses, IMO, and perfect size for street photography and all day carry. Although I wish the lenses are weather resistant, but I've taken them out on days with hight rain and seems to hold up fine. The learning curve with manual lens was fine with me and I do find that it adds a dimension to taking photography because now I can manipulate focus sharpness for certain narrative compositions. Again, great video.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback, it means a lot. I’ve been eyeing that macro 35mm, I might give it a go.
@@ChrisFreitag those were SOOC with cropping only. I did not do any other edits.
Sorry, did you post links to some images?
@@ChrisFreitag yes. Just to show the SOOC portraits I tried with the 35mm. I can take it off if you’d like. I didn’t mean to plug and apologies for any inconveniences caused
No, no, I can’t seem to see where they are! Where do I look?
So interresting. I've just ordered this lens this evening. I will certainely remember your video when shooting. And also remember the cone... ! Thank you soo much for sharin. I also love vintage lenses, flares, bokeh with "personnality", etc. Question : do you recommand the XT-3 or XT-5 for this lens ? I have both.
Thank you! I’ve only used it with my X-Pro3, I honestly haven’t tried it on my X-H2. I’m sure you could use it on either camera just fine, but I don’t know how it resolves the 40MP. You’ll have to give them both a try!
I haven’t done anything manual focus yet but I have seen some nice 35mm’s online. I haven’t done much in terms of needing it but maybe it’s to to give it a try.
It never hurts to try new things. Like I said, the early going was kind of frustrating and I definitely thought it was silly when I had auto-focus lenses that didn't require as much work. But it has been worth it. You might find you like it.
It’s awesome. I use it on my xpro3
Hi. Thanks for the video. While using OVF, what do you see in the viewfinder: a single frame or two?
Well I see the outline of the view frame which changes depending on my lens and focus. But I also see the little ERF if I turn it on when using manual focus. When I’m using the OVF, I find the ERF is still necessary for me because I don’t trust my manual focus skills at this point.
What you'll find with this lens is some pretty bad field curvature. What this translates to is two things;
1) at wide open apertures, severe field curvature can actually assist with that 3d pop on the focus point, so for things like portraiture this lens will do quite well (as long as you're ok with a slight soft portraiture shots).
2) at more stopped down apertures like f4-f8, and more kinda landscape applications, the issue becomes a BIG negative. Some owners get confused by the results and think it is a missed focus shot, but what happens is you can get the center reasonably sharp, then just outside the center the IQ drops off significantly, but then tightens up again in the far corners. So imagine a kind of 'donut' area of not great image quality surrounding the center, this is the field curvature issue.
It's only an issue in a sense that the 23mm lens falls short in thinking of it as a 'do-it-all' lens, something great for portraiture and sharp and uniformed IQ across the frame when stopping down (which it does not). So I think it is wise to think of this as a super portraiture lens, or anything where you're shooting wide open (or close to) or not caring overly about decent IQ across the frame when stopped down.
Wow, thank you for that well-detailed technical breakdown! I had heard rumblings of field curvature but hadn’t seen it myself. I do stop down to 5.6 or 8 but only for zone focusing and only for near-field photography. In fact, I don’t even think I’ve attempted shooting anything more than 20 yards away from me with it. I’ve only been using it on my X-Pro3 for street and documentary.
@@ChrisFreitag It's not always easy to see the issue, it depends on the type of landscape shot. If for example you focus on a tree stump or something, then surrounding that tree stump is going to be out of focus anyway (where the donut ring of trashness IQ exists), then you won't even notice (a little like when shooting a portrait wide open, if the corners and edges are out of focus you can't even tell the quality of the corners and edges anyway). So it can be quite dependent on the image itself. When you know what to look for you'll see it, you'll see things not adding up right. The corners and edges near you will appear more in focus than the stuff slightyl further away and closer to the actual focused subject matter (typically near the middle). So it goes from in focus (middle), to out of focus (near middle), back to being in focus again (corners and edges). And this seems to be making a lot of Nokton 1.2 users thinking they are doing a poor job of nailing focus. Just google 'Nokton 23/1.2 field curvature' and you should find the resources and images to show these existing traits. I have seen them first hand with a friend who owns this lens and shared images with me also.
Like I said, not a deal breaker per se, just something to keep an eye out for. No lens is perfect anyway.
Thanks for this - very helpful! One question I have is for travel photos: Most of my travel pics are landscape, etc. Although sometimes I want to turn the camera around (selfie mode) to quickly get me and my friends / family in the shot, usually at 1.2 and in low light - and this is where autofocus has helped. I assume I would need to practice / memorize where the focus ring needs to be set when I extend my arm outward so I can be sure me and my subjects are in focus. Any advice you can give? I would love to have this manual lens. Looks amazing. 😊
I’m glad you enjoyed it! - As for your question, I’m afraid I haven’t even attempted a selfie with this lens. But I would approach the problem the way you have described, you would have to practice. It would probably make it easier to do at a higher aperture, like F8 because your focus zone would be more forgiving. But depending on what you’re after, F8 wouldn’t provide much separation between you and the background. I think you’d have practice a lot, get aperture and focus rings dialed in and memorized to the point you could really point and shoot. Could be even more accurate in the long run than autofocus.
The photo of the camera on the tripod aimed at the sky and with the red light, what aperture was that shot at?
f/2.0, ISO 6400, SS 13.0 seconds and it was on a tripod.
Hello! Does the X-Pro3 compensate the frame lines shift on the OVF when you move focus say from infinity to macro?
I want to say that I don’t remember seeing that but it’s not something I can test at the moment because I’m traveling without that camera.
Alright, thanks for the reply, have a nice trip!@@ChrisFreitag
I'm surprised I don't see any videos showing what the background blur is capable of with closeups.
Glad you enjoyed it
Chris, I think you are a natural at this and again I really enjoyed it. But, I do have this one critique, your lighting for this clip is not up to the rest of the production. Very muddy.
Thank you! Yes, this video was a lot of firsts. My first video in my new space, my first video I edited with Davinci Resolve, my first time trying to shoot in F-Log. So there’s a lot of learning going on behind the scenes and I make a lot of mistakes still. It’s what makes this so fun.
I never thought about all of those elements. I'm a retired Marketing Director. I worked in TV for a good part of my career. The most important part, you've got. You connect with the camera. In my experience, that is something that either you have or you don't have. Very difficult to correct it if your talent doesn't have it. The rest will come.@@ChrisFreitag
Thank you for the encouragement. I have been a long time product designer for online software and some of that background comes through here. But most of this is new to me and it has been very rewarding so far.
Nokton = Night 🌙 (like the old nikkor noct lens)
Good to know! I thought it was a label they were using for Fujifilm X-Mount 😀