It would really help if manufacturers of these sockets had an isolation switch to disable the charger electronics when not in use. Being powered 24/7, they will have a relatively short life. And when they fail, well it could end badly such as over heating in a wall space, exploding capacitors or other dangerous or unpleasant failure modes.
I'm glad I haven't fitted any of these...And if I did, I'd add an isolation switch to the charger circuit. 👍 What you say about failures occurring over time is very interesting. Might the first generations of these things highlight a potential Grenfell-esque scenario in years to come?... 🔌🔥🤔
I bought an MK double socket with usb port many years ago. I then realised if installed that the usb charger would be energised at all times. I never fitted it. Its still on the shelf and will probably go on ebay soon. I would much rather use a plug in charger so that it can be removed or isolated when not in use.
@@efixx The problem is that a USB charger in a socket is likely to fail in a *much* shorter time frame than an ordinary socket, which could be expected to last decades. For you and me that might not be such a hassle, but for most people it changes plugging in a replacement charger to calling out an electrician to change a socket. So unless you are competent to change a socket then they are are *REALLY* dumb idea.
@@David-nd4to Well it might be a 10 wire job. Six for the ring main, another three for a spur and a final fly lead to the backbox. However just because it is easy for you and me does not mean it is easy for someone who has no idea. There is not a chance in hell I would expect my 80 year old mother to change a socket for example. A *lot* of people are not confident changing a socket.
Good video Joe. It is also worth mentioning the the type of USB-C cable used is important. USB C cables can have variations in speed, power, and protocol capabilities. Additionally there are different length requirements to watch out for. When in doubt, buy cables from the device manufacturer. A USB C cable with 3.1 Gen 2 capabilities vs one with 2.0 can mean a vast difference in data transfer. For example, two cable types transferring the same HD movie can take vastly different times: 3.1 Gen 2 takes 5 seconds at 10 Gbps 2.0 takes 1.7 min at 480 MBps All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 20V 3A, but can also carry high-power 20V 5A current. For cables with up to 3A and 5A delivery, they can be used for Charging USB type C enabled devices such as cell phones and tablets. Transferring photos and music between devices. The biggest difference between 3A and 5A cables is 5A cables can generally power laptops and monitors while 3A cables cannot.
@@efixx How many of them support USB-C's PD or for that matter any of the other signalling methods? Probably none given their age so while they may work they'll charge the device at a plodding rate. It's a much better idea to just use a standard plug in power supply really. Probably cheaper too and if it breaks, just plug another one in instead of calling a sparkie to change the entire outlet since even if the USB part is snap out replaceable it's probably no longer available. Just the opinion of an old has been ...
Charging protocols and connections change, USB-C was just introduced in 2014. The Trusty 13A socket will outlast these consumer fads. Also the higher power USB chargers get pretty warm under load. Although a decent brand probably wont burn the house down is it wise to be running a laptop on a daily basis from such a thing buried in a wall box?
My expectation is that a normal wall socket should last closer to 100 years than 30 years before it fails. (I.e. that it will be replaced because its looks get out of fashion not because it failed.) Electrolytic capacitors do age, so even if it is extremely well made a USB charger won't last as long. [Edit:] And that's ignoring the problem of changing charging protocols/standards.
how much power do the transformers in these sockets use when nothing is plugged into USB?? I would like to see a physical switch for the USB socket as well so that is not in use it can be turned off
@@efixx will do but in the meantime do any of the manufacturers state the transformer power usage whilst nothing plugged in to USB. It may seem minimal but over time these loses soon add up to £££
Modern chargers are pretty effective. My Samsung uses 5 mW. That means it will cost less than a cent in a year. Now those may be less effective but they should be in ne under 50 mW.
@@okaro6595 so grateful to you for the information I still do not like the idea of a device still using power m, no matter how low , whilst not in use. Particularly whilst they may be unattended / unobserved or beneath tables etc If these were installed in a large corporation with thousands of sockets then the costs certainly are not negligible
Some things don't charge at all on the lower power ratings but anything will charge on the higher ones. Cheaping out on the socket could be more expensive in the long run because you'll just have to get a power adapter when something doesn't work.
No mention of the two different charging protocols? QC being basically for non Apple devices and PD for Apple kit. The two protocols are incompatible. Each type of charger will revert back to reduced rate charging if they cannot get the correct handshake from whatever is plugged in. Wall sockets are not to be relied upon for high power USB devices, they may well charge batteries on resting kit but fall over when the kit is drawing power at the same time. My laptop, for example, draws 60 watts through its USB C lead, others draw more. I’ve found that the only reliable way to keep it charged is to use the manufacturer supplied wall wart or something of similar rating. Some aftermarket USB C leads will work with Apple kit, many will not. There are lots of cheap and dangerous USB leads floating around. The ultra thin aluminium conductors within the worst of them act as heating wires. If you manage to get them working on a high power USB charger they can (will?) start a fire. Ask the local Fire Brigade about charging lead generated smoke and fire events.
@@KevinK-gk4wtPD isn't Apple-specific; loads of stuff uses it including basically every USB C powered laptop. Also there are chargers that will support both.
@@AlexSwanson-rw7cv I’m not disagreeing with you. I was trying to keep my comment simple (intent being to draw attention, not go through the minutiae) regarding a very complex situation. While what you say is true there is a problem with the interconnects and protocols. As you say, Apple (PD) kit will supply quality Qualcomm (QC) devices at full capacity provided the cable passes dynamic handshake testing. Some supposedly Qualcomm devices give decidedly non standard results on test and only get basic power from Apple kit. Apple software is set up to be very fussy about the quality of chargers and connecting cables. Deviation from expected results will result in either acceptance of a reduced charging rate or the dreaded “ not charging “ overwrite on screen. My laptop chargers automatically select the correct protocol for each USB C device at plug in but one of my Apple devices (iPad Pro 2018), which I tried with an Apple C to lightning cable, rejects the supply every time.
Yes laptop I have will only charge if the outplet can negotiate to 36V out to get the 120W - so non of the ones on the market at the moment are worth having for that.
No mention of charging protocols? It's all well and good saying only install a 'high power' charger if your device supports that amount, but might still not work if your device doesn't support the protocol it's using. Most new devices are using USB-PD now, which most of these sockets are designed for, but there's still plenty out there that aren't.
I'd recommend go for the higher one in all cases, the price difference is negligible and with modern devices requiring more and more power over time you'll be slightly future proofing yourself at the same time. USB-PD support up to 12v is crucial, 20v support is a bonus for laptops, many sockets on the market even with the USB-C output don't necessarily support PD
Real, it's worth even considering the usage, just install the fastest one, if the cost increase is negligible it would be a no brainer for people to want the fastest charger
Always hated the concept of a USB socket but have grown to love them for convenient charging without 'wasting' a space for another appliance to plug in.
@@jamesantill5065 If you develop an earth fault somewhere in the house tripping your RCD, first step is to go round the house and unplug everything to see if that solves the problem. If you have USB sockets you've got to take the extra step of taking them all off and then re-connect the ring. I'd happily have these in my house, if the USB had its own switch to isolate it. Sadly and bafflingly no one bothers to make them.
@@simoncroft9792 Buy a bedside light with a charger in 🙂 Edited to add that personally I use an Apple 5W plug. It is more than capable of charging my phone over night and it is low profile so I can push the bedside table right up to it. There is *zero* chance of doing that with a charger in a socket because the cable comes straight out.
I would prefer a USB socket with a switch to turn off the USB's for that added extra safety and I am sure electricians would love this also when carrying out an insulation resistance test has not to burn out the electronics contained within...
Is there no standard for how much heat can be deliberately generated inside a back box / faceplate? A quick search suggests USB transformers might be 63% efficient, so a 45W one could be a 25W backbox heater? I see proposals for 240W USB Power Delivery, which admits the possibility of 120+W heat behind the faceplate?
After having to replace 7 BG devices in our house, we will never touch them again. This included: - Brand new double socket; one socket had no Neutral unless you applied slight pressure to the off side of the switch. - 3 pole fan isolator failed after 2 years, Live permanently connected regardless of switch position. - Dimmer switch went bang and emitted smoke. 3 months old. - Switch on socket became intermittent This happened in a house with two adults who were hardly home due to work, very light use on everything.
I fitted one of these beside my bed because it gives me 4 devices out of a lone 2-gang back box: TV, 1980s SONY alarm clock, his+hers mobile charging. In the rest of the house I'm hoping to have sufficient socket outlets to have plenty spare for chargers. I don't think I'd fit one anywhere else. Are people fitting these and leaving 3-pin sockets empty?
Now that it’s common to see USB sockets integrated with regular house current sockets, it’s time isolate that integration by making the USB component an upgradable module.
Many will charge on 45W, but it will not be enough to allow a powerful laptop to run just from the outlet. At the same time you then have a constant 45W draw on a device that is embedded in a wall behind a plastic faceplate.
Modern laptops do tricks such as dipping into the battery to cover short high power draw by the CPU etc. It allows for a seemingly undersized charger but slightly lengthens the charging time.
At work we standardise on 65 watt chargers; many laptops including MacBooks are fine with 45 watts, but the Lenovo ones particularly will give a nagging message every time you connect, that it is 'charging slowly'. I haven't seen any 'standard' (non-gaming or ones with fancy graphics cards) that need over 65 watts.
The spec for USB 2.0 is 5v and 500 milliamps, Usb 3.0 is 3v and 900 milliamps. Allowing a socket to deliver more power than the design spec allows could damage the cable or the device being charged.
Like anybody else I charge stuff via USB, but since these entered the market one thing that's always bothered me about them is the fact each has its own local switching PSU that draws a load whether providing USB charging or not, and I wonder how many KWh/MWh the UK burns away in parasitic load every day through stuff like this. It's why my preferred solution is a wall-wart plugged into a switched outlet that's turned on _only_ when a device is being charged. 😇 My present plan for the next time I need a full re-wire - And it's close; Mine's now 40 years old, though it passed the last EICR - Is to incorporate a separate USB supply ring alongside the renewed 240v mains (Appropriately shielded) driven initially by a power bank, with that being charged as required by a wall-wart that's only connected to mains voltage when required. 👍 In this way - Though I might lose the odd watt or two to resistive losses through the wiring - I'm hoping to keep the losses from USB device charging down to a minimum and improve efficiency. Both the environment and my wallet will thank me for that, with my supply now costing over 60p/kWh despite how unaffordable that is for a person in my circumstances... 🌻♿⚡💸🏚 .oO(Energy „regulator“, my 🍑!) BTW, a *tip* for extending device lifespan; Beyond adopting the „80/20“ charging regime (Or even the „70/30“, if you can accommodate that) the _slower_ you recharge the battery the less stress it experiences and the slower its decay in-service. For this reason I try to recharge devices on 500mA (2,5W) or 1A (5W) chargers whenever possible, and reserve the use of 10W and higher chargers for emergency use only. If you can get a reliable 500mA charger (Be *very* careful of the ones that tend to fall out of eBay and Temu packages!) try using _that_ for overnight device charging, and see if your battery health starts to improve from it! 👍 I have devices over a decade old - With their original batteries - That are _still_ giving near-new battery lifespan even to this day! 😇
@@iwalker3809 Aye, though EVs are a difficult case - Generally speaking the rate of charge is governed by the _car manufacturer_ (Through how the car and its charging circuits are programmed by them) rather than the _end user._ For cars where a 240v plug-in charger is an option this will be less stressful on the battery than a fast charger, but the downside - Aside from this only being practical if you're driving less than 8km a day - Is that some cars might refuse to accept the plug-in charger on a daily basis. 🛂 When it comes to vehicles, I always thought the railway approach was the best. Why have a volatile battery on the vehicle when a simple overhead wire or third rail will do? 🚄⚡💯😇
You also need to be aware of the cable used, as you can get blamed that the 30W charger isn't delivering 30W -some USB C to USB A cables are only USB2 so the circuit won't switch to the higher power (I bought a tester after seeing a video and I found I had a few - no I only buy the USB C - C with a captive A adaptor)
Sockets go in the wall for decades, but standards for USB are changing all the time, with new protocols covering all sorts of voltages - you can be sure they will change again in the next few years. Nice idea, but impractical. Frankly a waste of money, plus I wouldn't want to plug a £500 phone into circuitry of unknown province, I go with high quality, branded chargers - who have lots of lose if they fry the phone. Oh, and chargers don't last forever so why would the circuitry in these wall plates be any different, some will fail, maybe quite a lot over time.
Yes, if I see these things on a train or at the airport, I still use the 230V outlet and my own charger - I'd rather sacrifice the charger on potentially dodgy mains (especially on the train where there must be an inverter in play) rather than my phone on potentially dodgy 5V.
There is sonething important missing from all this which determines what the charge rate is, it's the cable itself, most are not capable of going past 1A before the power supply has to ramp things down. Most devices have a charge controller built in to measure the incoming voltage, thinner cable will result in less voltage at higher current.
You failed the very basic point and eFIXX should of made this clear. no they don't put out that wattage for any device. it is very clear what the output capability is, which is output current not power and it is not 45W for a phone. e.g the 45W version this is only achieved at 15V not 5V. the max output is 3A so that is 15W for any device that can only except the 5V input. eFIXX should of tested the output using a usb tester and load. the higher voltage capability will be device specific along with charging cable which can limit charging current and the SOC of the device you are charging. ALL single cell Li-on devices have a max voltage of 4.2V so any higher voltage will not make any difference, the higher output voltage will only be for devices with more that one cell, like laptops. your overnight charge comment is miss leading, it is the current capability of the socket outlet that determine the charge speed not the power number as stated on the socket, if you want a slower charge time choose a lower output current.
Often a 45-watt car or wall charger has really two separate 22.5 watt outlets. Not sure how common it is with those wall sockets. Always read the fine print.
In 2021 you told us to install a Hamilton USB socket. th-cam.com/video/HIsTK42o8g0/w-d-xo.html In 2023 you told us to install a Hamilton USB socket. th-cam.com/video/Ug46-oGWIvI/w-d-xo.html In 2024 you are telling us to install a British General USB socket. Why the change of brand eFIXX? 🤔
I have a couple of these around the house but I don't use them to charge devices because they are not supposed to be used for that. I use them to power stuff like USB lamps, USB air quality sensors, USB air purifiers, etc.. Phones and laptops I charge with proper chargers rated to charge at the spec currents. Normally I use the provided chargers but I have a couple of those Anker/Ugreen desktop chargers both on my desk and the coffee.
@@efixx I was on an electric vehicle charging course and it was mentioned then , it's not on a par with potential feedback from a car but has implications. The guy doing the course said 2 and an A type rcd or rcbo.
manufacturers should install physical switch to isolate USb that will make it more efficient an suitable for testing on 500v without removing it from walls at least in case of fault finding
To install these wall sockets, do i need an electrician to fit one by law? or can i do it myself? 1:41 to 1:50 it seems simple enough. Switch off consumer unit, take off old, install new and switch unit back on. Thanks in advance.
I believe in Scotland you can do it yourself as long as it's to code. However there's more to changing a socket then you think. You have to ensure the screws are correctly tightened to hold the wires. So many people seem to get this wrong and they come loose creating a fire hazard.
@@efixx Stupid analogy. Electricians are not surgeons, they are technicians. They are not cutting open a live, human body and removing parts of it with razor sharp instruments. If you think it takes a comparable level of skill to replace an electric socket, then you are suffering from a serious overestimating of your own abilities. Also, do you ever work on your own car? Ever changed a wheel, or brake pads? Where are you drawing the line? Do you want to see banned next? Replacing a plug? How about changing a fuse, somebody might put in the wrong rating. I also build electronic devices as a hobby, including mains powered ones. Should I stop that too? People vary hugely in their abilities, and some jobs are more straightforward than others.
@@TheEulerIDit’s a good analogy I think. The intention isn’t to say an electrician is comparable to a surgeon, rather to simply say ‘you can do certain things yourself, but sometimes it better to get a professional’. Absolutely changing a socket isn’t rocket science, and plenty of people successfully complete similar tasks an amateurs, but plenty f it up and create a dangerous situation. Therefore, ‘you could do it, but probably better to get a pro’ is always the correct advice.
Unfortunately all the sockets you showed don’t have a switch to the usb transformer. This will likely result in a high failure rate over three to four years. Good for the electrician though due to the regular call backs.
They inherently wrong. All of them. Having all these devices permanently connected without any kind of local isolation is just asking for trouble. I suppose they create ongoing work for electricians :)
What happens when you plug a 5V only device into a socket that has previously been attached to a one that requested 12V? Without the charger being switched off in between, might there be a chance that the 5V device will let out the magic smoke?
When using a charger that does not belong to you never use a USB cable with data lines connected, use a charging only cable, the charger could be fitted with embedded microcontrollers that hack your phone. The hacking method that involves compromising a phone through a USB charger is known as "juice jacking."
think I prefer to use a plug in charger. from what I've heard the charging unit built into these sockets don't last well I haven't seen one that is not constantly live even when nothing is plugged into the USB. it would have been better if a switch was fitted to activate the USB power when the lead was plugged in.
I got few in my house but lower wattage just to run water fountain and toothbrush charging. Everything else i only trust anker devixes to deliver proper power rather than some cheap stuff
With the emergence of power hungry USB C devices there's no point installing sockets which are rated below 240W per output. The builders in my new build installed low power USB sockets everywhere and they're useless. I had to buy multiple 100W+ chargers and don't use built in sockets at all.
Do you trust a cheap PCB to charge an £800 phone? Some of these cheaper charger circuits have terrible filtering, voltage regulation and borderline unsafe primary to secondary isolation.
@@trewjohn2001these aren't Big Clive's Pound Land charges though. I'd guess most are pretty decent in terms of isolation and creepage clearance etc. These should all be BS Standard approved. I'll not be fitting any until they start incorporating a switch to isolate the DC circuit.
@@Chris-hy6jyNo one knows until you start unwrapping the fly back transformer and seeing how well the windings are separated. It’s not USB certified as far as I can see. But very few are.
@@trewjohn2001 I'm pretty sure these mainstream brands like BG etc have their products tested before they can go on sale. They almost certainly carry out a HV leakage test. Either way, they should be fitted with a switch and until they are, I'll not touch them.
In a office I fitted 5 sockets in each office cubical but was decided to also fit a switched spur to kill power to all sockets as USB sockets pull power even when not in use. I was going to do the calculations for all the cubicals 25 with 5 in each. Don't know why they can not be wired internationally so when switched off the internal USB is also off. So 150 plus USB sockets all together I think there was close to 300 just one small building.
@@okaro6595 And that is just one small building just think each house having just 4 then all the new builds I like my 4 way extension I fitted a power switch in line so I can leave my laptop chargers in and phone and touch and just kill it all saves time and money. As I did say what it 100 thousand houses have 4 or 5 in each a bit like if I stole 1p from every one that has a UK bank account
What happens if capacitor or some other component in the charger fails? no way to quickly turn it off or unplug it. I much prefer a charger I can plug in and and remove easily.
A lot of cheaper USB sockets have shocking quality electronics inside them. The power conversion is done with cheap power-shunts that generate loads of heat and electronic noise on the ring main - I’ve had powerline networks fail due to the noise created by USB sockets. Whilst less convenient I much prefer using a dedicated quality USB power adapter
I use a countdown energy saving timer to charge my devices. The USB charger is plugged into the countdown timer. I can set the charging duration to 1hr, 3hrs or 6hrs. Plug the charge cable into the device, push the button and the device charges for 3 hours maximum. This preseves battery life as it not on charge all night long. These USB charging outlets integrated into mains sockets can't do that.
Many phones have such settings already. I charge at night to 80% then at morning it fills up then if I would leave it there it would start charging when it dropped to 95%. Note do not use any device to turn off the charger when not in use in order to save electricity. That device would almost certainly use ten times the electricity the charger uses. This includes powerstrips with light on the switch.
also even a bedside charger needs to be high power, since sometimes you need to charge up quickly if you forgot to plug it in at night or just laying in bed with low battery and don't want to bother with cables for too long
If you're trying to make your phones last, disable fast charging and turn on the battery protection that limits it to an 85% charge. You'll get a far longer working life out of your battery.
@@gadgetman36 On my Samsung Android it's either on or off, which sets it to 85%. And I'm really not that bothered about it to go through the hassle needed to get it to 80.
That makes no sense as then you will run out charge constantly. You essentially are using the phone like it had a three year-old battery. I charge at 80% in a the night and then fill up in the morning - automatically of course.
I hope it does sometime soon. USB-C is awful. The contact size for the amount of current they expect it to carry is ridiculous. The USB-C on my phone has stopped transferring data and also now doesn't fast charge. Desperately need a much more robust slightly larger version.
I'd argue, if you and the client can afford it, go for the highest wattage and most reputable socket you can. That way you can charge the most variety of devices, and it'll last as long as possible because who wants to be replacing these often?
OK in an office environment but a total waste of money for use in peoples homes. USB specs and charging specs are always changing, householder will not to be changing their sockets every 3 or 4 years to keep up. Stand alone is the way to go, safer too, expecting a 13amp socket to last 25 years is ok, expecting the electronics for the USB charging to last is just dangerous.
This is "permanent" infrastructure. Regardless of what the customer is currently doing, they (or their successor) may want to do something different and they don't want to call an electrician just because they purchased a new tablet or whatever. (no matter how much I'd prefer to be called more often for such simple jobs, there is plenty of work to do and a satisfied customer is better than one who thinks I did something wrong in the past so I would get called again) Of course, I don't use these in my own home. Charging standards have been changing too often. Now with 100w and great USB-C standards the rate of change may be slowing, and more appropriate to incorporate as "permanent" infrastructure. However these do add parasitic load. Is that appropriate or would it be better to stay with the normal "unplug when not in use" charger blocks? I typically have mine on a power strip...
Not many laptops are going to benefit from a 45w outlet. Most laptops will have a requirement for a 65w charger and business laptops will need 95 -130w, so a 45w socket will just keep the laptop in low power mode and slow down the battery drain. A 45w outlet is only useful for phones and tablets with fast charging. That being said, the customer can probably buy a 45w GaN fast charger on Amazon for less than a fancy wallplate with 45w charging built in. The customer can take the charger on holidays in their luggage. They cant take the wallplate with them.
No. The current on desk unit from Legrand Electrak uses a usb A&C module that automatically switches between voltages up to 20v. The LED changes colour to let you know it is using the higher voltage.
The ratings that matters the most are the life rating of the capacitors used by the built in charger. Basic capacitors may only be designed to last 1,000 of use or 8-10 years before they dry out. The result is a socket that in the past may have been fit for service for 20-30 years may need replacing every 5-10 years. Just what we need consumers replacing power sockets as it is 'simple'.
Yeah I made the mistake of waiting until the MK QC sockets came out. I now realise that was a stupid idea, as it will just wear out my phones battery quicker. I was told the charge doesn’t last as long either, and that seams to be the case. QC is a good idea for a hall way, if your in and out.
Best advise.... Install generic sockets, then add a plug-in 'fit for purpose' charger. These sockets age poorly. A standard socket face plate has a recommended life expectancy of circa 25-30 years... With technology advancement this USB addition isn't going to be useful in 5 years!! At that time, you have redundant chargers in your sockets. Often, you'll never get the max current rate of the USB outlets because brands like BG are not close to being up to date with charge protocols! Quick charge what? Power delivery who?
I'd laugh at anyone using these to charge their phone. Use a good brand name 1st or 3rd party charger instead. If you must get these plug/USB combos, it makes no sense to get a 22w over a 45w when you could need it later. Dude didn't even say the cost difference for some reason.
Don't buy the bg electric wifi socket they are dog shit. Really poor speeds and after a few days just won't connect. Bg electrical were no help. Im normally against wifi repeaters they arent great but this thing i literally bought to repeat the signal for my ring doorbell and that is too much for it and its not even far from the router or the doorbell. Absolute shite
these integrated USB sockets are complete trash no matter who makes them, just look at the specs on the outlets in the intro, 45W max but also limited to 3amps, so what voltage is that really? will it actually charge a phone at 45W? does it support PPS? if it doesn't it's already an outdated piece of shit
So how many people actually know how much power there mobile phone or tablet can take ? No one How do we find how much power they can take ? I have just got through my iPhone settings menu and found no such information. In an office environment you say it better to match the usb socket power output to the needs of what’s being plugged in/charged ? So what are you going to label each outlet? This will never work in the real world as the general public doesn’t have time to look for a suitable outlet the will simply plug there device into whatever socket is available. (Fact)
Just do a web search for your device’s max charge. I know what my phone, tablet and charger can take, so don’t make assumptions. I take my own charger(s) with me, I don’t trust public USB sockets because they may have been tampered with to hack your device.
@@gadgetman36 thank you for the info , but how many people do think would do a google search? 99% of people don’t fauve a dam they just want to charge their devices. . Oh and I’m not making assumptions.
Who is writing these today? BG can go fish with their marketing spiel with regard to modern laptops. Both my laptops charge at 100W-120W and complain about these nonsense mobile charger outlets. I suggest a correction. Moreover they need to state what charging protocols they support and exact limits for compatibility comparison.
The most common protocols supported by USB sockets are QualComm Quick Charge for USB-A, and Power Delivery for USB-C. These will fast charge most modern devices, which will take the maximum voltage and current they can from what’s available. So if your laptop can charge at 120W, but only 100W is available from the USB socket, it will charge at 100W. This is handled automatically by negotiation between charger and device.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 yes, and nobody is going to use them anymore. Already now USB-C is everywhere. Most new devices get delivered with a USB-C cable only.
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It would really help if manufacturers of these sockets had an isolation switch to disable the charger electronics when not in use. Being powered 24/7, they will have a relatively short life. And when they fail, well it could end badly such as over heating in a wall space, exploding capacitors or other dangerous or unpleasant failure modes.
Would also enable a Mohm test to be done
I'm glad I haven't fitted any of these...And if I did, I'd add an isolation switch to the charger circuit. 👍
What you say about failures occurring over time is very interesting. Might the first generations of these things highlight a potential Grenfell-esque scenario in years to come?... 🔌🔥🤔
I bought an MK double socket with usb port many years ago. I then realised if installed that the usb charger would be energised at all times. I never fitted it. Its still on the shelf and will probably go on ebay soon. I would much rather use a plug in charger so that it can be removed or isolated when not in use.
I prefer stand-alone chargers. You can plug it into whatever socket available, anywhere. No need to install multiple USB sockets.
Good for on the move, I do like a fixed point where I charge all the time. 😃
ÌMO these are not so good at home but iin libraries etc. they are nice as you can charge even if you have just the cable.
@@efixx The problem is that a USB charger in a socket is likely to fail in a *much* shorter time frame than an ordinary socket, which could be expected to last decades. For you and me that might not be such a hassle, but for most people it changes plugging in a replacement charger to calling out an electrician to change a socket. So unless you are competent to change a socket then they are are *REALLY* dumb idea.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 changing a socket is 3 wires homie. Not really rocket science
@@David-nd4to Well it might be a 10 wire job. Six for the ring main, another three for a spur and a final fly lead to the backbox. However just because it is easy for you and me does not mean it is easy for someone who has no idea. There is not a chance in hell I would expect my 80 year old mother to change a socket for example. A *lot* of people are not confident changing a socket.
Good video Joe. It is also worth mentioning the the type of USB-C cable used is important.
USB C cables can have variations in speed, power, and protocol capabilities. Additionally there are different length requirements to watch out for. When in doubt, buy cables from the device manufacturer.
A USB C cable with 3.1 Gen 2 capabilities vs one with 2.0 can mean a vast difference in data transfer. For example, two cable types transferring the same HD movie can take vastly different times:
3.1 Gen 2 takes 5 seconds at 10 Gbps
2.0 takes 1.7 min at 480 MBps
All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 20V 3A, but can also carry high-power 20V 5A current.
For cables with up to 3A and 5A delivery, they can be used for
Charging USB type C enabled devices such as cell phones and tablets.
Transferring photos and music between devices.
The biggest difference between 3A and 5A cables is 5A cables can generally power laptops and monitors while 3A cables cannot.
How many of these integrated USB chargers will be still be functional in 20 years? Most wall sockets last 20 - 30 years without being replaced.
I’ve had some installed at home since 2014 still working. *Gordon
Keep it simple, buy a 13a USB plug adapter !
@@efixx How many of them support USB-C's PD or for that matter any of the other signalling methods? Probably none given their age so while they may work they'll charge the device at a plodding rate. It's a much better idea to just use a standard plug in power supply really. Probably cheaper too and if it breaks, just plug another one in instead of calling a sparkie to change the entire outlet since even if the USB part is snap out replaceable it's probably no longer available. Just the opinion of an old has been ...
Charging protocols and connections change, USB-C was just introduced in 2014. The Trusty 13A socket will outlast these consumer fads. Also the higher power USB chargers get pretty warm under load. Although a decent brand probably wont burn the house down is it wise to be running a laptop on a daily basis from such a thing buried in a wall box?
My expectation is that a normal wall socket should last closer to 100 years than 30 years before it fails. (I.e. that it will be replaced because its looks get out of fashion not because it failed.)
Electrolytic capacitors do age, so even if it is extremely well made a USB charger won't last as long.
[Edit:] And that's ignoring the problem of changing charging protocols/standards.
how much power do the transformers in these sockets use when nothing is plugged into USB??
I would like to see a physical switch for the USB socket as well so that is not in use it can be turned off
We've suggested this to a few manufacturers, stay tuned...
@@efixx will do but in the meantime do any of the manufacturers state the transformer power usage whilst nothing plugged in to USB.
It may seem minimal but over time these loses soon add up to £££
Modern chargers are pretty effective. My Samsung uses 5 mW. That means it will cost less than a cent in a year. Now those may be less effective but they should be in ne under 50 mW.
@@okaro6595 so grateful to you for the information
I still do not like the idea of a device still using power m, no matter how low , whilst not in use. Particularly whilst they may be unattended / unobserved or beneath tables etc
If these were installed in a large corporation with thousands of sockets then the costs certainly are not negligible
there is international/EU law that states when a device is in standby they have to draw a few mW.
Some things don't charge at all on the lower power ratings but anything will charge on the higher ones. Cheaping out on the socket could be more expensive in the long run because you'll just have to get a power adapter when something doesn't work.
Fair point 😊
No mention of the two different charging protocols? QC being basically for non Apple devices and PD for Apple kit. The two protocols are incompatible. Each type of charger will revert back to reduced rate charging if they cannot get the correct handshake from whatever is plugged in.
Wall sockets are not to be relied upon for high power USB devices, they may well charge batteries on resting kit but fall over when the kit is drawing power at the same time. My laptop, for example, draws 60 watts through its USB C lead, others draw more. I’ve found that the only reliable way to keep it charged is to use the manufacturer supplied wall wart or something of similar rating.
Some aftermarket USB C leads will work with Apple kit, many will not. There are lots of cheap and dangerous USB leads floating around. The ultra thin aluminium conductors within the worst of them act as heating wires. If you manage to get them working on a high power USB charger they can (will?) start a fire. Ask the local Fire Brigade about charging lead generated smoke and fire events.
@@KevinK-gk4wtPD isn't Apple-specific; loads of stuff uses it including basically every USB C powered laptop. Also there are chargers that will support both.
@@AlexSwanson-rw7cv I’m not disagreeing with you. I was trying to keep my comment simple (intent being to draw attention, not go through the minutiae) regarding a very complex situation. While what you say is true there is a problem with the interconnects and protocols. As you say, Apple (PD) kit will supply quality Qualcomm (QC) devices at full capacity provided the cable passes dynamic handshake testing. Some supposedly Qualcomm devices give decidedly non standard results on test and only get basic power from Apple kit. Apple software is set up to be very fussy about the quality of chargers and connecting cables. Deviation from expected results will result in either acceptance of a reduced charging rate or the dreaded “ not charging “ overwrite on screen. My laptop chargers automatically select the correct protocol for each USB C device at plug in but one of my Apple devices (iPad Pro 2018), which I tried with an Apple C to lightning cable, rejects the supply every time.
Yes laptop I have will only charge if the outplet can negotiate to 36V out to get the 120W - so non of the ones on the market at the moment are worth having for that.
No mention of charging protocols? It's all well and good saying only install a 'high power' charger if your device supports that amount, but might still not work if your device doesn't support the protocol it's using. Most new devices are using USB-PD now, which most of these sockets are designed for, but there's still plenty out there that aren't.
@@MadSpacePig 🤔 Just get the adapter cable 🙄
Electricians and electronics don't mix...
I'd recommend go for the higher one in all cases, the price difference is negligible and with modern devices requiring more and more power over time you'll be slightly future proofing yourself at the same time. USB-PD support up to 12v is crucial, 20v support is a bonus for laptops, many sockets on the market even with the USB-C output don't necessarily support PD
Fair point, thanks for commenting. 😊
Real, it's worth even considering the usage, just install the fastest one, if the cost increase is negligible it would be a no brainer for people to want the fastest charger
I charge my tablet in the bedroom ...
Always hated the concept of a USB socket but have grown to love them for convenient charging without 'wasting' a space for another appliance to plug in.
Permanently installing electronics like this in the wall is such a stupid idea
@@mikeselectricstuff
How permanent is something requiring 5 screws to remove?
@@mikeselectricstuff even if the sensitive electronics outlast the plug itself, the charging protocol will be outdated in a few years time.
@@jamesantill5065 If you develop an earth fault somewhere in the house tripping your RCD, first step is to go round the house and unplug everything to see if that solves the problem. If you have USB sockets you've got to take the extra step of taking them all off and then re-connect the ring.
I'd happily have these in my house, if the USB had its own switch to isolate it. Sadly and bafflingly no one bothers to make them.
Yes, but it generates repeat work for electricians!
@@jamesantill5065It isn’t but you need to hire an electrician which isn’t free.
I prefer having a classic socket and just plug in a charger.
These probably aren't for you then... 😂
Ok until you need to charge upstairs and the charger is downstairs…. Also easy to run out of sockets. Bedside light and blanket and you’re full
@@simoncroft9792 Buy a bedside light with a charger in 🙂 Edited to add that personally I use an Apple 5W plug. It is more than capable of charging my phone over night and it is low profile so I can push the bedside table right up to it. There is *zero* chance of doing that with a charger in a socket because the cable comes straight out.
Do you prefer the 15th edition wiring regs?
Installing a USB socket into a wall is just wrong in the first place.
I would prefer a USB socket with a switch to turn off the USB's for that added extra safety and I am sure electricians would love this also when carrying out an insulation resistance test has not to burn out the electronics contained within...
I plugged in a wireless charger pad which charges really slowly but I can let it do it's thing overnight and not worry 👍
Great video, Joe. But why post a video, which refers you to another video at the end. But the linked video is not shown?
Hi Brian, the video is there now. You can find it here 👉 th-cam.com/users/shortsKBTmN0WM35c
Just get the higher wattage outlet, you should also fit a 47mm deep back box . These outlets die because of heat !
And because they are on 24/7 with no way to switch them off. These sockets are a dumb idea and a fire risk.
@@Ed.R Don't fit them just use the charger supplied with the device.
@@wicklowmountains8618 they don't supply chargers with the devices anymore eg tablets and phones due to environmental and "costs"
Is there no standard for how much heat can be deliberately generated inside a back box / faceplate? A quick search suggests USB transformers might be 63% efficient, so a 45W one could be a 25W backbox heater? I see proposals for 240W USB Power Delivery, which admits the possibility of 120+W heat behind the faceplate?
@@wicklowmountains8618 Don't worry I never will in my own house. They are just a money making idea by manufacturers.
After having to replace 7 BG devices in our house, we will never touch them again. This included:
- Brand new double socket; one socket had no Neutral unless you applied slight pressure to the off side of the switch.
- 3 pole fan isolator failed after 2 years, Live permanently connected regardless of switch position.
- Dimmer switch went bang and emitted smoke. 3 months old.
- Switch on socket became intermittent
This happened in a house with two adults who were hardly home due to work, very light use on everything.
I fitted one of these beside my bed because it gives me 4 devices out of a lone 2-gang back box: TV, 1980s SONY alarm clock, his+hers mobile charging. In the rest of the house I'm hoping to have sufficient socket outlets to have plenty spare for chargers. I don't think I'd fit one anywhere else. Are people fitting these and leaving 3-pin sockets empty?
Now that it’s common to see USB sockets integrated with regular house current sockets, it’s time isolate that integration by making the USB component an upgradable module.
Is 45W really enough for a laptop - I think you need to double that for many, and have 60W for the rest.
I'm happy to be proved wrong on this one!
Many will charge on 45W, but it will not be enough to allow a powerful laptop to run just from the outlet. At the same time you then have a constant 45W draw on a device that is embedded in a wall behind a plastic faceplate.
Modern laptops do tricks such as dipping into the battery to cover short high power draw by the CPU etc. It allows for a seemingly undersized charger but slightly lengthens the charging time.
I shall do some experiments... 😃
At work we standardise on 65 watt chargers; many laptops including MacBooks are fine with 45 watts, but the Lenovo ones particularly will give a nagging message every time you connect, that it is 'charging slowly'. I haven't seen any 'standard' (non-gaming or ones with fancy graphics cards) that need over 65 watts.
@@markingle8487 Dells moan as well 😏
I won't be installing any until they start fitting switches to them!
The spec for USB 2.0 is 5v and 500 milliamps, Usb 3.0 is 3v and 900 milliamps. Allowing a socket to deliver more power than the design spec allows could damage the cable or the device being charged.
Like anybody else I charge stuff via USB, but since these entered the market one thing that's always bothered me about them is the fact each has its own local switching PSU that draws a load whether providing USB charging or not, and I wonder how many KWh/MWh the UK burns away in parasitic load every day through stuff like this. It's why my preferred solution is a wall-wart plugged into a switched outlet that's turned on _only_ when a device is being charged. 😇
My present plan for the next time I need a full re-wire - And it's close; Mine's now 40 years old, though it passed the last EICR - Is to incorporate a separate USB supply ring alongside the renewed 240v mains (Appropriately shielded) driven initially by a power bank, with that being charged as required by a wall-wart that's only connected to mains voltage when required. 👍
In this way - Though I might lose the odd watt or two to resistive losses through the wiring - I'm hoping to keep the losses from USB device charging down to a minimum and improve efficiency. Both the environment and my wallet will thank me for that, with my supply now costing over 60p/kWh despite how unaffordable that is for a person in my circumstances... 🌻♿⚡💸🏚
.oO(Energy „regulator“, my 🍑!)
BTW, a *tip* for extending device lifespan; Beyond adopting the „80/20“ charging regime (Or even the „70/30“, if you can accommodate that) the _slower_ you recharge the battery the less stress it experiences and the slower its decay in-service. For this reason I try to recharge devices on 500mA (2,5W) or 1A (5W) chargers whenever possible, and reserve the use of 10W and higher chargers for emergency use only. If you can get a reliable 500mA charger (Be *very* careful of the ones that tend to fall out of eBay and Temu packages!) try using _that_ for overnight device charging, and see if your battery health starts to improve from it! 👍
I have devices over a decade old - With their original batteries - That are _still_ giving near-new battery lifespan even to this day! 😇
@@dieseldragon6756 Good charging advice for anything using lithium batteries, especially EV's, whose battery replacement cost can be crazy.
@@iwalker3809 Aye, though EVs are a difficult case - Generally speaking the rate of charge is governed by the _car manufacturer_ (Through how the car and its charging circuits are programmed by them) rather than the _end user._
For cars where a 240v plug-in charger is an option this will be less stressful on the battery than a fast charger, but the downside - Aside from this only being practical if you're driving less than 8km a day - Is that some cars might refuse to accept the plug-in charger on a daily basis. 🛂
When it comes to vehicles, I always thought the railway approach was the best. Why have a volatile battery on the vehicle when a simple overhead wire or third rail will do? 🚄⚡💯😇
You also need to be aware of the cable used, as you can get blamed that the 30W charger isn't delivering 30W -some USB C to USB A cables are only USB2 so the circuit won't switch to the higher power (I bought a tester after seeing a video and I found I had a few - no I only buy the USB C - C with a captive A adaptor)
Sockets go in the wall for decades, but standards for USB are changing all the time, with new protocols covering all sorts of voltages - you can be sure they will change again in the next few years. Nice idea, but impractical. Frankly a waste of money, plus I wouldn't want to plug a £500 phone into circuitry of unknown province, I go with high quality, branded chargers - who have lots of lose if they fry the phone. Oh, and chargers don't last forever so why would the circuitry in these wall plates be any different, some will fail, maybe quite a lot over time.
Yes, if I see these things on a train or at the airport, I still use the 230V outlet and my own charger - I'd rather sacrifice the charger on potentially dodgy mains (especially on the train where there must be an inverter in play) rather than my phone on potentially dodgy 5V.
There is sonething important missing from all this which determines what the charge rate is, it's the cable itself, most are not capable of going past 1A before the power supply has to ramp things down.
Most devices have a charge controller built in to measure the incoming voltage, thinner cable will result in less voltage at higher current.
You failed the very basic point and eFIXX should of made this clear. no they don't put out that wattage for any device. it is very clear what the output capability is, which is output current not power and it is not 45W for a phone. e.g the 45W version this is only achieved at 15V not 5V. the max output is 3A so that is 15W for any device that can only except the 5V input. eFIXX should of tested the output using a usb tester and load. the higher voltage capability will be device specific along with charging cable which can limit charging current and the SOC of the device you are charging. ALL single cell Li-on devices have a max voltage of 4.2V so any higher voltage will not make any difference, the higher output voltage will only be for devices with more that one cell, like laptops. your overnight charge comment is miss leading, it is the current capability of the socket outlet that determine the charge speed not the power number as stated on the socket, if you want a slower charge time choose a lower output current.
That's isn't true my single cell Motorola does 6.25 amps at 20v
Often a 45-watt car or wall charger has really two separate 22.5 watt outlets. Not sure how common it is with those wall sockets. Always read the fine print.
In 2021 you told us to install a Hamilton USB socket. th-cam.com/video/HIsTK42o8g0/w-d-xo.html In 2023 you told us to install a Hamilton USB socket. th-cam.com/video/Ug46-oGWIvI/w-d-xo.html In 2024 you are telling us to install a British General USB socket. Why the change of brand eFIXX? 🤔
Hamilton aren't sponsoring anymore?
Things change and products develop. 🤷
@@efixx Right so I have had to call a sparky out to change my sockets three times. These seem to be a job creation scheme for a sparky.
I have a couple of these around the house but I don't use them to charge devices because they are not supposed to be used for that. I use them to power stuff like USB lamps, USB air quality sensors, USB air purifiers, etc..
Phones and laptops I charge with proper chargers rated to charge at the spec currents. Normally I use the provided chargers but I have a couple of those Anker/Ugreen desktop chargers both on my desk and the coffee.
But a vast proportion of devices do not have provided chargers nowadays. Hence you are forced into using something else.
Are there any wall sockets or even light switches that have built in wifi extenders ?
How many of these USB sockets can you install on an rcd or rcbo because of DC blinding ??
This is a really good question actually. 🤔
@@efixx I was on an electric vehicle charging course and it was mentioned then , it's not on a par with potential feedback from a car but has implications. The guy doing the course said 2 and an A type rcd or rcbo.
manufacturers should install physical switch to isolate USb that will make it more efficient an suitable for testing on 500v without removing it from walls at least in case of fault finding
To install these wall sockets, do i need an electrician to fit one by law? or can i do it myself? 1:41 to 1:50 it seems simple enough. Switch off consumer unit, take off old, install new and switch unit back on. Thanks in advance.
I believe in Scotland you can do it yourself as long as it's to code. However there's more to changing a socket then you think. You have to ensure the screws are correctly tightened to hold the wires. So many people seem to get this wrong and they come loose creating a fire hazard.
The answer is, no you do not need to be a qualified electrician to replace an electric socket, light fitting, light switch or the like in the UK.
You don't have to get a doctor to remove your appendix, but you probably always would... 🤔😂
@@efixx Stupid analogy. Electricians are not surgeons, they are technicians. They are not cutting open a live, human body and removing parts of it with razor sharp instruments. If you think it takes a comparable level of skill to replace an electric socket, then you are suffering from a serious overestimating of your own abilities.
Also, do you ever work on your own car? Ever changed a wheel, or brake pads? Where are you drawing the line? Do you want to see banned next? Replacing a plug? How about changing a fuse, somebody might put in the wrong rating.
I also build electronic devices as a hobby, including mains powered ones. Should I stop that too?
People vary hugely in their abilities, and some jobs are more straightforward than others.
@@TheEulerIDit’s a good analogy I think. The intention isn’t to say an electrician is comparable to a surgeon, rather to simply say ‘you can do certain things yourself, but sometimes it better to get a professional’. Absolutely changing a socket isn’t rocket science, and plenty of people successfully complete similar tasks an amateurs, but plenty f it up and create a dangerous situation. Therefore, ‘you could do it, but probably better to get a pro’ is always the correct advice.
Unfortunately all the sockets you showed don’t have a switch to the usb transformer. This will likely result in a high failure rate over three to four years. Good for the electrician though due to the regular call backs.
They inherently wrong. All of them. Having all these devices permanently connected without any kind of local isolation is just asking for trouble. I suppose they create ongoing work for electricians :)
As USB charging is constantly evolving, I don't think these will last the life of the socket
What happens when you plug a 5V only device into a socket that has previously been attached to a one that requested 12V? Without the charger being switched off in between, might there be a chance that the 5V device will let out the magic smoke?
When using a charger that does not belong to you never use a USB cable with data lines connected, use a charging only cable, the charger could be fitted with embedded microcontrollers that hack your phone. The hacking method that involves compromising a phone through a USB charger is known as "juice jacking."
think I prefer to use a plug in charger. from what I've heard the charging unit built into these sockets don't last well I haven't seen one that is not constantly live even when nothing is plugged into the USB. it would have been better if a switch was fitted to activate the USB power when the lead was plugged in.
I got few in my house but lower wattage just to run water fountain and toothbrush charging. Everything else i only trust anker devixes to deliver proper power rather than some cheap stuff
With the emergence of power hungry USB C devices there's no point installing sockets which are rated below 240W per output. The builders in my new build installed low power USB sockets everywhere and they're useless. I had to buy multiple 100W+ chargers and don't use built in sockets at all.
Do you trust a cheap PCB to charge an £800 phone? Some of these cheaper charger circuits have terrible filtering, voltage regulation and borderline unsafe primary to secondary isolation.
I trust these sockets... 🤷
@@efixxSend one to ChargerLAB for a teardown. A lot of these cheap charger circuits have serious design flaws.
@@trewjohn2001these aren't Big Clive's Pound Land charges though. I'd guess most are pretty decent in terms of isolation and creepage clearance etc. These should all be BS Standard approved. I'll not be fitting any until they start incorporating a switch to isolate the DC circuit.
@@Chris-hy6jyNo one knows until you start unwrapping the fly back transformer and seeing how well the windings are separated. It’s not USB certified as far as I can see. But very few are.
@@trewjohn2001 I'm pretty sure these mainstream brands like BG etc have their products tested before they can go on sale. They almost certainly carry out a HV leakage test. Either way, they should be fitted with a switch and until they are, I'll not touch them.
How can you find out the wattage if it's not stamped on the front? (just says 3.1A - 5V)
@@jayseabie215 Just multiply 3.1A by 5V, so 15.5 Watts.
In a office I fitted 5 sockets in each office cubical but was decided to also fit a switched spur to kill power to all sockets as USB sockets pull power even when not in use. I was going to do the calculations for all the cubicals 25 with 5 in each. Don't know why they can not be wired internationally so when switched off the internal USB is also off. So 150 plus USB sockets all together I think there was close to 300 just one small building.
Made this suggestion a few times to a few manufacturers, watch this space...
Lets say they use 30 mW each 300 would use 9 watts. That is about £10 a year. Sure isolation would be good for other reasons.
@@okaro6595 And that is just one small building just think each house having just 4 then all the new builds I like my 4 way extension I fitted a power switch in line so I can leave my laptop chargers in and phone and touch and just kill it all saves time and money. As I did say what it 100 thousand houses have 4 or 5 in each a bit like if I stole 1p from every one that has a UK bank account
What happens if capacitor or some other component in the charger fails? no way to quickly turn it off or unplug it. I much prefer a charger I can plug in and and remove easily.
Mixing electric(ians) and electronics has always been a bad idea IMO 😆🤨
If you install the higher rated one you are future proofing as all devices going forward will become higher rated demanding
Most laptops I've seen are 65w so a 45w charger still isn't enough.
A lot of cheaper USB sockets have shocking quality electronics inside them. The power conversion is done with cheap power-shunts that generate loads of heat and electronic noise on the ring main - I’ve had powerline networks fail due to the noise created by USB sockets. Whilst less convenient I much prefer using a dedicated quality USB power adapter
I use a countdown energy saving timer to charge my devices.
The USB charger is plugged into the countdown timer.
I can set the charging duration to 1hr, 3hrs or 6hrs.
Plug the charge cable into the device, push the button and the device charges for 3 hours maximum.
This preseves battery life as it not on charge all night long.
These USB charging outlets integrated into mains sockets can't do that.
I just set my phone to stop charging at 85%.
Many phones have such settings already. I charge at night to 80% then at morning it fills up then if I would leave it there it would start charging when it
dropped to 95%.
Note do not use any device to turn off the charger when not in use in order to save electricity. That device would almost certainly use ten times the electricity the charger uses. This includes powerstrips with light on the switch.
most modern phones will charge at 45+ watts and it's the power at which many laptops will begin to charge
also even a bedside charger needs to be high power, since sometimes you need to charge up quickly if you forgot to plug it in at night or just laying in bed with low battery and don't want to bother with cables for too long
If you're trying to make your phones last, disable fast charging and turn on the battery protection that limits it to an 85% charge. You'll get a far longer working life out of your battery.
It’s a sound theory, but the limit should be set to 80%, not 85%.
@@gadgetman36 On my Samsung Android it's either on or off, which sets it to 85%. And I'm really not that bothered about it to go through the hassle needed to get it to 80.
@@gadgetman36 85% is far better than 100%. I've used the 85% limit on my Samsung for years now and the battery life is still great.
That makes no sense as then you will run out charge constantly. You essentially are using the phone like it had a three year-old battery.
I charge at 80% in a the night and then fill up in the morning - automatically of course.
@@okaro6595 I make it through the day with 35% left. You may have to take a look at your phone usage, because I already think mine is pretty bad.
It's all fun and games until USB-D comes out. 😁
Think C is baked in for sometime just might be a few versions 😉
I hope it does sometime soon. USB-C is awful. The contact size for the amount of current they expect it to carry is ridiculous. The USB-C on my phone has stopped transferring data and also now doesn't fast charge. Desperately need a much more robust slightly larger version.
I'd argue, if you and the client can afford it, go for the highest wattage and most reputable socket you can. That way you can charge the most variety of devices, and it'll last as long as possible because who wants to be replacing these often?
OK in an office environment but a total waste of money for use in peoples homes. USB specs and charging specs are always changing, householder will not to be changing their sockets every 3 or 4 years to keep up. Stand alone is the way to go, safer too, expecting a 13amp socket to last 25 years is ok, expecting the electronics for the USB charging to last is just dangerous.
This is "permanent" infrastructure. Regardless of what the customer is currently doing, they (or their successor) may want to do something different and they don't want to call an electrician just because they purchased a new tablet or whatever. (no matter how much I'd prefer to be called more often for such simple jobs, there is plenty of work to do and a satisfied customer is better than one who thinks I did something wrong in the past so I would get called again)
Of course, I don't use these in my own home. Charging standards have been changing too often. Now with 100w and great USB-C standards the rate of change may be slowing, and more appropriate to incorporate as "permanent" infrastructure. However these do add parasitic load. Is that appropriate or would it be better to stay with the normal "unplug when not in use" charger blocks? I typically have mine on a power strip...
Not many laptops are going to benefit from a 45w outlet. Most laptops will have a requirement for a 65w charger and business laptops will need 95 -130w, so a 45w socket will just keep the laptop in low power mode and slow down the battery drain. A 45w outlet is only useful for phones and tablets with fast charging. That being said, the customer can probably buy a 45w GaN fast charger on Amazon for less than a fancy wallplate with 45w charging built in. The customer can take the charger on holidays in their luggage. They cant take the wallplate with them.
Slightly disappointed socket outlets that support USB-C PPS (Programmable Power Supply) weren't mentioned.
Send us a link and we’ll investigate
I've got 2 x Nexus 30W USB-C sockets and recently upgraded another to the Nexus 45W USB one. Doesn't charge my Galaxy S24 Ultra at 45W, disappointed
Why are these sockets marked 5 to 12 or 20 volts? Isn't USB 5v?
No. The current on desk unit from Legrand Electrak uses a usb A&C module that automatically switches between voltages up to 20v. The LED changes colour to let you know it is using the higher voltage.
@@StorminBriski thanks never knew that!
The ratings that matters the most are the life rating of the capacitors used by the built in charger. Basic capacitors may only be designed to last 1,000 of use or 8-10 years before they dry out. The result is a socket that in the past may have been fit for service for 20-30 years may need replacing every 5-10 years. Just what we need consumers replacing power sockets as it is 'simple'.
Exactly and why if I was in charge of electrical regulations I'd ban the use of built in USB chargers.
Im just not a fan of BG..... Usb is a choice.... But i wont spec BG....
Yeah I made the mistake of waiting until the MK QC sockets came out. I now realise that was a stupid idea, as it will just wear out my phones battery quicker. I was told the charge doesn’t last as long either, and that seams to be the case. QC is a good idea for a hall way, if your in and out.
Thanks for commenting. 😊
Agree with @mikeselectricstuff, there should at least be a DP means of isolating the electronics!
Best advise....
Install generic sockets, then add a plug-in 'fit for purpose' charger.
These sockets age poorly. A standard socket face plate has a recommended life expectancy of circa 25-30 years... With technology advancement this USB addition isn't going to be useful in 5 years!! At that time, you have redundant chargers in your sockets.
Often, you'll never get the max current rate of the USB outlets because brands like BG are not close to being up to date with charge protocols! Quick charge what? Power delivery who?
100W+ needed for laptops..
go for style
I'd laugh at anyone using these to charge their phone. Use a good brand name 1st or 3rd party charger instead.
If you must get these plug/USB combos, it makes no sense to get a 22w over a 45w when you could need it later. Dude didn't even say the cost difference for some reason.
Don't buy the bg electric wifi socket they are dog shit. Really poor speeds and after a few days just won't connect. Bg electrical were no help. Im normally against wifi repeaters they arent great but this thing i literally bought to repeat the signal for my ring doorbell and that is too much for it and its not even far from the router or the doorbell. Absolute shite
these integrated USB sockets are complete trash no matter who makes them, just look at the specs on the outlets in the intro, 45W max but also limited to 3amps, so what voltage is that really? will it actually charge a phone at 45W? does it support PPS? if it doesn't it's already an outdated piece of shit
So how many people actually know how much power there mobile phone or tablet can take ? No one
How do we find how much power they can take ? I have just got through my iPhone settings menu and found no such information. In an office environment you say it better to match the usb socket power output to the needs of what’s being plugged in/charged ? So what are you going to label each outlet?
This will never work in the real world as the general public doesn’t have time to look for a suitable outlet the will simply plug there device into whatever socket is available. (Fact)
Just do a web search for your device’s max charge. I know what my phone, tablet and charger can take, so don’t make assumptions. I take my own charger(s) with me, I don’t trust public USB sockets because they may have been tampered with to hack your device.
@@gadgetman36 thank you for the info , but how many people do think would do a google search? 99% of people don’t fauve a dam they just want to charge their devices. . Oh and I’m not making assumptions.
Who is writing these today? BG can go fish with their marketing spiel with regard to modern laptops.
Both my laptops charge at 100W-120W and complain about these nonsense mobile charger outlets.
I suggest a correction.
Moreover they need to state what charging protocols they support and exact limits for compatibility comparison.
The most common protocols supported by USB sockets are QualComm Quick Charge for USB-A, and Power Delivery for USB-C. These will fast charge most modern devices, which will take the maximum voltage and current they can from what’s available. So if your laptop can charge at 120W, but only 100W is available from the USB socket, it will charge at 100W. This is handled automatically by negotiation between charger and device.
Installing USB-A outlets in 2024 is completely pointless. Those will be gone very soon.
USB sockets will be around for a very long time.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 yes, and nobody is going to use them anymore. Already now USB-C is everywhere. Most new devices get delivered with a USB-C cable only.