done a whole house that like this once ,was glad to get it done ,but it was a propper ball ache ,most people dont realise whats involved in painting ,especally with regards to bare plaster
@@PaintingandDecorating I’m stripping wallpaper in house which was build in 1901 . 3-4 layers of paper in most rooms . Stripping is easy , painting over walls with exterior Matt paint to solid walls is also easy but good luck to myself with dry wall sander and filling work to make walls smooth 😂
Thank you for this. I bastardised another of your tips for this problem. After cleaning I mixed a hard stop of fine filler and emulsion and skimmed / filled the wall, followed by a very light sanding. The result was perfect and was paint, not paper. Surprisingly quick too. So thanks x 2
If your paint mapping is quite thick from multi coats I would advise after scrapping/sanding and applying the diluted pva skim the wall with a fine filler. I use KNAUF FILL AND FINISH LIGHT. It's easy to apply with a large spatular or filling blade, and when dry easy to sand flat. This will ensure a proper flat wall surface if you want as flat a surface as possible. Large tubs of KNAUF fill and finish are around £40ish in the uk.
I've just bought a 5 bed 1972 house that's wallpapered throughout 😅 - I'm tempted to take the walls down and re-plasterboard, it'd be much quicker haha
Update: stripping the walls has battered the plasterboard but due to the wall construction (solid plasterboard not stud wall) I'm having to plaster everything. Almost done, having learned to plaster myself. Jobs coming along
A good few years ago, I faced this horrible predicament after deciding to rip the wallpaper off in my bedroom. I was in tears, stumped over what to do about it and there was no way i going to skim the walls. In the end i made my first attempt at lining the walls. I would have tried this method if I knew of it.
I've got an area under a bay window (30s house) which seems to suffer from condensation in Winter as its a cold outside wall. I'll be using 3mm self-adhesive insulating paper, caulked around any edges so its secure, rather than paste-on stuff to stop this happening. I do have paint mapping - mostly firm paint but some exposed plaster. Seems solid though. Have used a mould remover and have a Dehumidifier running for a day or two to make sure wall is absolutely bone dry first. Once it is, I'll almost certainly use No-Peel on it, allow that to dry then fit the self-adhesive paper. Do you think that will be sufficient?
Toupret fine surface filler is a game changer for very smooth fine dents even like different thickness paint or even bad plastering, saved the day on many an occasion. B and Q do large 15kg tubs. Toupret is a no grining/flashing filler
Painted my entire house interior in Leyland contract Matt, it's the worst paint I've ever worked with, flaky, chalky, peeling garbage after a few months with prep
Them car wash noodle mitts are good for applying wallpaper stripping solution and sugar soap to walls and ceilings. Also catering cotton weave dish cloths will help rub off residual paste and last bits of paper
@PaintingandDecorating compared to a sponge. I'm lucky I own a mirka so I would remove all loose and flakey. Sand down glossy surfaces. Wash down. Base with 20% diluted and two top coats in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Trade matt wipes off. Do you even know what paint is for my cowboy sausage...
I know you said you’re wallpapering it but if you were to actually paint a wall with so much mapping you’d be better to line it or skim coat it or even Mirka it away? Not a diy’er but a decorator?
@@salimziani4537 yes you can but you may get some bubbles in the paper. Don't worry 99 % dry back you may have to stick some back. Depending on how old the wallpaper is this is not possible. Paper degrades and does need replacing at some point. Thanks
I've found best solution steam off this old paint with a wall paper stripper let plaster dry repair any damage plaster.Reseal walls and repaint and hey presto beautiful new walls just like new the professional touch .
If stripping a vinyl wallpaper leaves behind a good sound backing paper, is there any harm in putting new wallpaper over the top - treating it as a lining paper.
Zinnser peel stop is good for this, did it a week ago and came out perfect, backing paper was in great shape so I just stabilised it with said product and new paper went on lovely.
Try a 12" squeezy mop and bucket, "paint" the wall with water, wait 3-5 mins then wet again, wait another couple of mins, then use a 12" wide scraper, flick the paste muck onto sheets of newspaper. Then repeat. The 2nd wash and scrape will really get it off. Finish with a wet sponge to get any residue. On concrete floors, no need to cover with sheets, upstairs thick, old towels are recommended to catch the excess water from the two soakings.
i have an issue with paint mapping on my walls after stripping off wall paper. some panels i had virtually none and other its fairly bad like 50/50 with remaining old primer and plain drywall. Just for clarification. Mist coat is a priming coat yes? and the PVA primer you are using is diluted with what? Is the dilution 2 to 1 or 5 to 1? Finally, you gave the option of just doing a priming (mist coat) instead of the dilute PVA step correct? I've read that PVA is really more for new drywall and then you put another primer over the PVA which seals the drywall. Then you put your one or two coats of paint over that. Is this a correct sequence. there was some issue with people saying you should not put PVA on a wall that has already been painted. Sorry for all the questions but yours is the only video i could find regarding the paint mapping problem so well done. i think i was worried my only option would be to put on a skim coat. Thank you.
in the UK a mistcoat is a coat of thinned down cheap emulsion that goes on bare plaster surfaces. The idea is to seal it. Then it's ready for decorating. But in the video he opts to use diluted PVA for the same purpose.
This is pretty much how I was taught to deal with this. Thankfully tech has moved on a great deal and as pro's we can work smarter and not harder. I probably wouldn't have used diluted PVA to seal. I was taught in college and by my first employer to never, under any circumstances use anything with vinyl in it to seal bare plaster. My go to now is zinsser peel stop or gardz, but if it works for you guys then go for it. Great channel 👍
you're correct. PVA shouldn't be used, never taught that in college. peel stop or Gardz is ideal, Gardz being alkali resisting give you a good surface to work on.
Builders should be banned from painting inside houses (joke but no joke). They always seem to end up causing problems like this down the line (same in my house and I have had to strip a few walls down to bare plaster but this is very time consuming and noisy for the neighbours).
Or...5 minutes with a mirka and its completely stripped off and flat. No cleaning of paste, all the paints gone and the wall is flat. Cost you 600 odd quid to set up though so not a diy solution but pro's... No brainer.
I just spent 1700 on a bundle. M class extractor, and the deos and deros. Took a bit of getting used to as they kept bouncing off the surface but love it now.
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot I'm fully festool now actually. Just say mirka as like a generic name for that type of sander. I have four of them with various extractors. Irreplaceable now. Could not live without
@@MrJimtimslim yeah get ya mate. I was debating festool but I spoke to a few of the decorators i see in crown who all regretted the festool after trying mirka. Horses for courses though. Only downside with mirka is you have to hold down the trigger which can get tiring
@@MrJimtimslim oh yeah for sure. In reality a dustless sander is a dustless sander. I got by for years just connecting them to my wickes hoover. Plus side is charging more for the better quality of work in a shorter period of time
@@PaintingandDecorating but it won't be perfect as you need to face fill twice to even out , one quick skim & like a sheet of glass, done loads over 38yrs as a painter decorator
Did you know they add PVA to paint for better adhesion.. if you don't know then don't use, leave it to the professional who understand the materials they are using. Thank you
@@PaintingandDecorating hahaha. Professional. No paint manufacturer ever suggests that you use PVA. Plaster seal is a mist coat of diluted trade emulsion 30%
Remove vinyl or film of first layer wallpaper. Then dash of stripping solution or Fairy with hot water.. towels down to catch water on wall. Use roller and dip into the solution Roll wall with it and don't be shy. Wait 5 minutes an comes off easy. Then sand the life out of the wall. Fill any areas needed Then seal with zinnzer GARDZ or if your lucky if it isn't bad Zinsser BIN. Boom. Water doesn't activate shellec paint. Neither does oil.
Hardly anything in it you will find decorators always find a way to try and bring the wall back to life with it be lining paper or filling and sanding as they can’t plaster ..me personally I can do both and plastering is the easiest and better finish 100%. The problem with this particular method in this video is you’re still not going to get a perfect finish !!!
done a whole house that like this once ,was glad to get it done ,but it was a propper ball ache ,most people dont realise whats involved in painting ,especally with regards to bare plaster
Totally all preparation.. painting old is usually quick and easy.. but new needs more work..
@@PaintingandDecorating
I’m stripping wallpaper in house which was build in 1901 . 3-4 layers of paper in most rooms .
Stripping is easy , painting over walls with exterior Matt paint to solid walls is also easy but good luck to myself with dry wall sander and filling work to make walls smooth 😂
Thank you for this. I bastardised another of your tips for this problem. After cleaning I mixed a hard stop of fine filler and emulsion and skimmed / filled the wall, followed by a very light sanding. The result was perfect and was paint, not paper. Surprisingly quick too. So thanks x 2
Your welcome thanks
If your paint mapping is quite thick from multi coats I would advise after scrapping/sanding and applying the diluted pva skim the wall with a fine filler. I use KNAUF FILL AND FINISH LIGHT. It's easy to apply with a large spatular or filling blade, and when dry easy to sand flat. This will ensure a proper flat wall surface if you want as flat a surface as possible. Large tubs of KNAUF fill and finish are around £40ish in the uk.
Thank you. Your advice is really helpful for me.
@@mychautran8013 you're welcome
I've just bought a 5 bed 1972 house that's wallpapered throughout 😅 - I'm tempted to take the walls down and re-plasterboard, it'd be much quicker haha
Update: stripping the walls has battered the plasterboard but due to the wall construction (solid plasterboard not stud wall) I'm having to plaster everything. Almost done, having learned to plaster myself. Jobs coming along
Kudos
A good few years ago, I faced this horrible predicament after deciding to rip the wallpaper off in my bedroom. I was in tears, stumped over what to do about it and there was no way i going to skim the walls. In the end i made my first attempt at lining the walls. I would have tried this method if I knew of it.
Yes sometimes what looks like an easy job can turn into something mammoth.
Thanks
thank you you are epic of knowledge thank you
I've got an area under a bay window (30s house) which seems to suffer from condensation in Winter as its a cold outside wall. I'll be using 3mm self-adhesive insulating paper, caulked around any edges so its secure, rather than paste-on stuff to stop this happening. I do have paint mapping - mostly firm paint but some exposed plaster. Seems solid though. Have used a mould remover and have a Dehumidifier running for a day or two to make sure wall is absolutely bone dry first. Once it is, I'll almost certainly use No-Peel on it, allow that to dry then fit the self-adhesive paper. Do you think that will be sufficient?
Toupret fine surface filler is a game changer for very smooth fine dents even like different thickness paint or even bad plastering, saved the day on many an occasion. B and Q do large 15kg tubs. Toupret is a no grining/flashing filler
Thanks, I think it's called Toupret smoothing filler on the 15kg tub.
Toupret Joint and Skim is superb.
Very informative,thank you for the detailed explanation.😊
@@joetritone3944 you're welcome thanks
Great video, just what I was looking for 👍👍
Painted my entire house interior in Leyland contract Matt, it's the worst paint I've ever worked with, flaky, chalky, peeling garbage after a few months with prep
It's only a base coat for bare. You need paint it again twice more with washable or scrubbable paint.
Great info from n this video. A very common problem in the States as well
I have just exposed a wall like this. Your video is super!!! I have really learned a lot to tackle this problem.
Thank you glad we can help. 👍
Them car wash noodle mitts are good for applying wallpaper stripping solution and sugar soap to walls and ceilings. Also catering cotton weave dish cloths will help rub off residual paste and last bits of paper
@@losttheplot26 if your hands get wet while using the mitts, then that's not going to be good for your hands.
@PaintingandDecorating compared to a sponge. I'm lucky I own a mirka so I would remove all loose and flakey. Sand down glossy surfaces. Wash down. Base with 20% diluted and two top coats in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Trade matt wipes off. Do you even know what paint is for my cowboy sausage...
@@PaintingandDecorating try it over a sponge.
@@PaintingandDecorating or a brush
I would probably apply lining paper or plaster the walls in this case .
I know you said you’re wallpapering it but if you were to actually paint a wall with so much mapping you’d be better to line it or skim coat it or even Mirka it away? Not a diy’er but a decorator?
Can I paint over wallpaper ?
Very old house , old paper.
Please advice. Thank you
@@salimziani4537 yes you can but you may get some bubbles in the paper. Don't worry 99 % dry back you may have to stick some back. Depending on how old the wallpaper is this is not possible. Paper degrades and does need replacing at some point. Thanks
Thank you. Do i need an oil based primer before applying emulsion? Thanks
PVA and paint is a big no no
I've found best solution steam off this old paint with a wall paper stripper let plaster dry repair any damage plaster.Reseal walls and repaint and hey presto beautiful new walls just like new the professional touch .
what does reseal walls mean and why do you have to do that?
If stripping a vinyl wallpaper leaves behind a good sound backing paper, is there any harm in putting new wallpaper over the top - treating it as a lining paper.
Zinnser peel stop is good for this, did it a week ago and came out perfect, backing paper was in great shape so I just stabilised it with said product and new paper went on lovely.
Try a 12" squeezy mop and bucket, "paint" the wall with water, wait 3-5 mins then wet again, wait another couple of mins, then use a 12" wide scraper, flick the paste muck onto sheets of newspaper. Then repeat. The 2nd wash and scrape will really get it off. Finish with a wet sponge to get any residue. On concrete floors, no need to cover with sheets, upstairs thick, old towels are recommended to catch the excess water from the two soakings.
Ace work. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you
What’s the dilution ratio for a mist coat? Thnx Sam.
i have an issue with paint mapping on my walls after stripping off wall paper. some panels i had virtually none and other its fairly bad like 50/50 with remaining old primer and plain drywall. Just for clarification. Mist coat is a priming coat yes? and the PVA primer you are using is diluted with what? Is the dilution 2 to 1 or 5 to 1? Finally, you gave the option of just doing a priming (mist coat) instead of the dilute PVA step correct? I've read that PVA is really more for new drywall and then you put another primer over the PVA which seals the drywall. Then you put your one or two coats of paint over that. Is this a correct sequence. there was some issue with people saying you should not put PVA on a wall that has already been painted. Sorry for all the questions but yours is the only video i could find regarding the paint mapping problem so well done. i think i was worried my only option would be to put on a skim coat. Thank you.
Please explain what’s a “miscoat. “
in the UK a mistcoat is a coat of thinned down cheap emulsion that goes on bare plaster surfaces. The idea is to seal it. Then it's ready for decorating. But in the video he opts to use diluted PVA for the same purpose.
@@fhellman thank you!!!
No paint manufacturer says to use pva. I'm lucky I own a mirka dust free sander.
Actually they add PVA to some paints and wallpaper pastes.
@PaintingandDecorating so you don't have to apply. Just water for porous surface and bit of flotrol paint conditioner. Drill whisk
This is pretty much how I was taught to deal with this. Thankfully tech has moved on a great deal and as pro's we can work smarter and not harder. I probably wouldn't have used diluted PVA to seal. I was taught in college and by my first employer to never, under any circumstances use anything with vinyl in it to seal bare plaster. My go to now is zinsser peel stop or gardz, but if it works for you guys then go for it. Great channel 👍
you're correct. PVA shouldn't be used, never taught that in college. peel stop or Gardz is ideal, Gardz being alkali resisting give you a good surface to work on.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hi again Phil, yep absolutely loving the gardz at the moment. Very reasonably priced too. 👍
Have u tried diluted PVA?
Builders should be banned from painting inside houses (joke but no joke). They always seem to end up causing problems like this down the line (same in my house and I have had to strip a few walls down to bare plaster but this is very time consuming and noisy for the neighbours).
Or...5 minutes with a mirka and its completely stripped off and flat. No cleaning of paste, all the paints gone and the wall is flat.
Cost you 600 odd quid to set up though so not a diy solution but pro's...
No brainer.
I just spent 1700 on a bundle. M class extractor, and the deos and deros. Took a bit of getting used to as they kept bouncing off the surface but love it now.
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot I'm fully festool now actually. Just say mirka as like a generic name for that type of sander. I have four of them with various extractors. Irreplaceable now. Could not live without
@@MrJimtimslim yeah get ya mate. I was debating festool but I spoke to a few of the decorators i see in crown who all regretted the festool after trying mirka. Horses for courses though. Only downside with mirka is you have to hold down the trigger which can get tiring
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot there's not a lot between them. They're all good.
@@MrJimtimslim oh yeah for sure. In reality a dustless sander is a dustless sander. I got by for years just connecting them to my wickes hoover. Plus side is charging more for the better quality of work in a shorter period of time
Sod that I will just wallpaper it with some superfresco
Lol just use a orbital sander with p80 sandpaper.... And then use like p120 then the p240 sandpaper! Seriously... 🤣🤣 just done my bedroom
I was hoping to see this comment, exactly what I'm thinking to do.
So is guardz the same at thisnpva
@@jennifermedia6288 no but it will do the same thing for this wall. Thanks
Just seal it with Zinsser guardz or peal and seal
Agree Steve, I never use PVA.
Stanley blade will shift it
Stop using pva
Zinsser gardz all day long
Plaster skim, by the time you face fill etc
No it's a lot cheaper this way.
@@PaintingandDecorating but it won't be perfect as you need to face fill twice to even out , one quick skim & like a sheet of glass, done loads over 38yrs as a painter decorator
@@PaintingandDecorating each to there own
Cowboy here again with PVA. No paint manufacturer ever suggests this. Sand. Seal with diluted paint
Did you know they add PVA to paint for better adhesion.. if you don't know then don't use, leave it to the professional who understand the materials they are using. Thank you
@@PaintingandDecorating hahaha. Professional. No paint manufacturer ever suggests that you use PVA. Plaster seal is a mist coat of diluted trade emulsion 30%
@@losttheplot26 Just because they don't suggest PVA doesn't mean it's not a good idea
@@losttheplot26 you wouldn't get a Ford car salesman suggest you buy an audi would you. It's called business.
No paint manufacturer has ever suggested such tripe! Yeehaa
Remove vinyl or film of first layer wallpaper. Then dash of stripping solution or Fairy with hot water.. towels down to catch water on wall.
Use roller and dip into the solution
Roll wall with it and don't be shy. Wait 5 minutes an comes off easy.
Then sand the life out of the wall. Fill any areas needed Then seal with zinnzer GARDZ or if your lucky if it isn't bad Zinsser BIN. Boom. Water doesn't activate shellec paint. Neither does oil.
👍👍
Thank you.
Difficult to understand the first 1/3 of your video, plus sound of 'ocean' in background... then sanding noise, etc.
👍👍👍
Thank you
Brilliant...
Thank you..
just seal with a solvent alkali resisting primer then surface fill pva isn't alkali resisting
It's okay because no salts are present..
Or just stop all the messing around and get it skimmed with multi finish plaster and get a perfect new wall back !
How much will that cost, though?
Hardly anything in it you will find decorators always find a way to try and bring the wall back to life with it be lining paper or filling and sanding as they can’t plaster ..me personally I can do both and plastering is the easiest and better finish 100%. The problem with this particular method in this video is you’re still not going to get a perfect finish !!!
It's not the only way,zinsser guardz would smash that,times have moved on work smarter not harder.
Echo echo .. . Testing testing...
What is water to pva ratio?
Just thinner than milk and you're sorted. Thanks
Peel stop mist coat not pva
What do you think painters did before peel stop? waste of money peel stop.
i have been painting 44 years . if i worked like that i would have no customers. you are what i call a hobby painter.
Its funny how everyone in the comments is a pro and has been for years. Gtfo and let us see your videos then. Your what i would call a fukin knob head
You might have been doing the job for 44 years but that does not make you an expert. You might be crap
@@dfar2303 use Zinsser gardz, let it dry. Paint over
Let’s see your videos then. What should we be doing then?
He even talks at 0.5x speed
wow pva A