I recently acquired a 1967 IH 444 as well. By chance, do you know what type of oil, and hydronic fluid? This video did not specifically. He only mentioned the transmission fluid type
It is refreshing to see a mechanic not wearing rubber gloves and using air or electric tools. I continue to find myself watching your videos when i need to learn more about my 444. THANKS!
We had 250, 275 and 414 Tractors, but never realised that they had that hydraulic oil screen. Never had any oily problems with them, even when loading sugar beet for the cows, at 06:00 on a cold -15C morning. . . . . .Thanks for the video. . . . . .
Thanks for this video. I have watched a few times as I inherited a b414 this year that had been sitting. I was mostly watching transmission and hydraulic, but I watched the engine oil also. I'm glad. Mine had the spring and washer, however it was installed above the element forcing it away from the housing. If I had not watched, I might have reinstalled the same way. Thanks
thank. you, thank you, thank you. We just picked up a 1961 B275 .Trying to get info on it . and this has answered what three days of googling could not. Thanks again from a fellow Canukistanian.
Great video thanks - about to do my first service of a 414 we bought a year ago. This video has given me a bit more confidence about exactly how to go about it.
@@CanadianRedneck15Possibly a dumb question, but do you know what the screw on the top of the filter head is for? The operators and workshop manual don't mention it at all, and so I guess it is unnecessary to mess with when replacing the filter? My only guess is it makes pre-filling easier, which also appears to be optional?
Nice video, i have a 444, spending some time and money on it now, new starter and alternator, the old one was burnt out. Also changing oil filter housing to a spin on type for easier filter change.
Glad you mentioned the spring and washer inside the eng. oil canister . Over the years I can't tell you how many of them are missing, doesn't matter the make or model of the tractor. It may have been good to mention to have the engine at operating temp. and drive it around before draining the fluids so as to get the sediment suspended and drained out.
Hi Dave, About a month ago I contacted you after, because, as it turned out, the transmission on my 354 diesel took on water, water froze up solid, needed a thaw, drained, and new fluids. That was done. Separately, the plastic tube that goes from the intake manifold to the front cover where the fuel pump gear is located broke.That I replaced. It started. So far so good. And thank you for your help with the change of fluids youtube! However, these previous events may have something to do with the reason for my question. After all this occurred, I started the tractor and it imeadiately began to rev-up to the max and the kill knob wouldn't stop it. I had to turn off the fuel to shut it down. The only other issue that could have possibly been involved has to due with the upper of the two bleed bolts on the fuel pump. The lower smaller one seems to be original. The upper, slightly larger one appears to be jury-rigged. It's longer bolt than necessary and has had a nut put on it to shorten the distance it goes into the fuel pump. That is - you tighten the nut rather than the bolt. At this point it goes in about an 3/4 to an inch farther than needed. Maybe that has interfered with or damaged what ever's going on inside. Or.. maybe the pump needs to be repaired or replaced. In any case, I would appreciate your thoughts! Best, Steve
Hello again Dave, Back to the jury rigged bleed screw, I removed the lower bleed screw and it came to a point that fit a seat. So while the upper jury rig bleeder is just a bolt one with a flat face, I don't see how that's the cause of the problem - and it's never been a problem before.Of course i'm looking for the simplest and cheapest way out, but fear I may have to send the pump out for a full rebuild. $$$$. Is it possible to repair the issue rather than go the whole 9 yds? If not can you suggest then most reasonable folks to send it to please? Always great for your help!
ONE OF THE BEST, RELIABLE 33 - 40 PTO HORSE POWER TRACTORS BUILT. OUR OLDEST 434D HAS PASSED THE 10 THOUSAND MARK & STILL RUNS GREAT. BOTH 434 D'S WERE PURCHASED NEW. I ABERAGE I GALLON FUEL BURN PER HOUR WHEN BALING. SET THE RPM @ 1850 RPM. VERY STRONG TORQUE RANGE. SAD DAY WHEN IHC AG DIVISION WAS ABSORBED BY CASE.
Excellent video ,just bought a 444 and was trying to figure out what trans fluid to use , now i know , the manual is not specific, well not to a retired electrician , hey man keep up these great videos , greetings from Ontario .
I am watching allo of your vedio lately because i just bought a 444 and i am rebuilding it and all your vedio are perfect love that you mention everything since its my first tracter and i was looking for parts i was asking my dad and the guy i bought the tracter from he allready bight parts from a guy in sessex and my dad said there a guy that bought a bunch of tracter from us way back 15 years ago hes from sessex next thing i know all that time its you haha i will give you a call tomorrow thanks.
a big thanks! i have an D320 , passed to me by my late grandfather, i need to change all the fluids as the tractor was 10 years waiting on the outside to be rescued, i'll use this video for better understanding, its not the same tractor but i think its very similar 🤔
First is a big thank you for your time on making these videos...It is a huge help to a newbie like myself. I will have many questions in the future but an important one to hopefully help me and others is regarding the level or amount of hydraulic fluid when refilling. The manual does say three gallons but it also says to fill to the TOP of the housing...and many other people are saying the same thing around the Internet...I am just trying to be sure on which level is the correct method as I am brand new to anything hydraulic related and want to service my newly acquired B414 before using it.
The original owners manual states 3 inches of fluid level. You don't want to fill it as the oil will expand when heated and there needs to be space for the level to vary as cylinders are filled and emptied. If the reservoir is over filled you stand a chance of .blowing seals out from pressure when the oil expands. Thanks for watching!
Hello, Thank you for this informative video.I have a B275 and wasn't sure about the hydraulic level and what oil to use. I Found the answer in your video and comments. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you, I just purchased a 2444 IH tractor with a 2040 loader. The loader stopped working it's full of fluid so next I will check filter. Keep making the videos.
I did it! Got my hydraulics working again on my B414! The hose connecting the hydraulic filter was leaking - among other places - but was bad there. I removed the hydraulic filter and cleaned it, and then things went to h*ll in a handbasket. Couldn't find a replacement hose. Then after a month of being told "what I really needed" I finally got what you said, i.e. hydraulic suction hose, but couldn't get the clips to go back on. After swearing heard round the world, I put on some eyeglasses and turned on a bright light and could see someone had cut the screws short on the clamps, probably because they were rubbing their leg. So the screws were now really short, or the hose was too heavy, and the screw threads on the end were rolled from the cutting and despite a plethora of tools and clamps, they would not screw together. AHHHHHH!!!!! So I stepped outside the box, got some screw clamps, and done and done! Only took me two months.
Help please! Just put my 444 back together after full engine rebuild and it’s sucking thru exhaust and blowing thru intake... did I put crank in 180 out? And what’s easiest way to correct this oops?! Thank you again !
I inherited a 444. Changed all the fluids, cleaned the screen, thanks for the video. Loader is still jumpy, slow to raise it up. Acts like the pump is starving for fluid. Any advice on things to check would be appreciated.
Hi Simon. Did you manage to get it done. I have 474 too. Couldn't use any hydraulics today. Saw some fluid leakage by a hydraulic hose. Where do you fill the oil, and which type/qty did you end up using? Best wishes
@@madsvinding4409 The 474 has an internal wet disk brake located on the inside end of the rear axles. If the brake pedal feels good the you likely need to replace the disks, if you have a soft pedal try bleeding the brakes. You could have worn master cylinders or bad o-rings by the disks. Thanks for watching!
Just bought my first tractor, a 434, this video great help so well described thanks, got to read up on the speed/torque amplifier it has fitted though as it got a Filter too 🤦♂️
I guess I didn't realize that you could get a TA in a 434. There shouldn't be a filter for it, I expect it would be a straight mechanical TA. Thanks for watching!
allo parler vous francais jai un 1970 434 internationnnal harvester au gaz cest la meme chose ....peut on tulisiser de huile tdh pour hydraulique et transmission aussi?
Thanks for the video! Yeah, I've got a B275 that I picked up 10 years ago and other than oil changes every couple of years just because, I don't think we ever put more than 2 or 3 hours a year on it dragging equipment around the yard at the shop. Now we have it at the family farms in Texas putting out hay, and I realized I'd forgotten how to do everything but the oil changes. I'll have to look at it, but, you're saying there is a drain plug for the gearbox/transmission, and then a drain plug for the rear end, but they both get filled at a plug by the shifter? Also, the B275 'Jensales' all in one service manual (unless I"m missing a section), was really lousy about covering maintenance, but it seems to state that the preferred hydraulic fluid is SAE 20 motor oil for mid-range temps. I didn't get the manuals for a few years after we got it, and at the time it seemed to have clear-ish hydraulic fluid, so we added whatever the International dealer in Okanogan WA at the time had in 5 gallon containers when I had to replace some gaskets on the hydraulic valve body. It seems to work fine, we're lifting 1000 lb round bales with it now, but, do you have a recommendation one way or the other? Thanks again, it certainly is a fun little tractor now that we use it regularly.
There should be 3 drain plugs, one at the back half of the clutch housing, one under the transmission, and one at the back for the differential, and they all fill from the plug by the shifter. For the hydraulics our dealer always recommended CaseIH Hytran oil but if you're using regular hydraulic oil and it's working fine don't worry about it. The 275 is a great tractor, much sturdier than competitors in it's size range. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 I finally made it down to the farm we're using it on tonight and took a look at it after your video, yep, now it all makes sense! Thanks for the response, yeah, I like it because it's compact and so far, is lifting the big round bales just fine. I do see some fluid changes and a little maintenance in my future though. Thanks again!
Can you give me any ideas or would you know anybody up in Canada that would have an idea on how to set it I tried sending it by ear and I can't get it close enough keeps popping
thank you. i just found you recently. and then you are covering a tractor close to mine. i just got a 354. and about to do all this to it lol. i just cleaned it up painted it. fixed lot lil issues first. but don't have the $ to dump into fluids etc now. its like 150$ in my area to change just trans and hydro oil. then oil looks like another 75$ shew wee. LOL. but I'm gonna and i think remove the top of the trans and fix what i think is a leak. seen a bunch of blue rtv. grrr i hate that stuff. ill make a gasket if its not to bad to remove the shifter fork plate.
IH 444 IHB414 hydraulic oil change and filter replaced. Hydraulics on the rear controlling the bush hog will not stay up after cuttimg off the tractor and seemingly leak down over a period of time if bushhog is left in the up position. And even when hydralics are set at a position to go to another field. will have the bush hog lowering without do it from the hydr controls. Several people have said it is air in the system after changing the hydraulic fluid and that it needs to be bled. Does this sound correct to you, and if so, do I just slighly (just enough) crack a filler plug while tractor is running to bleed off some pressure till fluid comes out or is there another location and or techniques. Around or supposed to be a 1969 model. Thanks
Why would you leave it parked with the mower up? That is leaving pressure on things for no purpose, always leave your implements lowered to the ground. No need to bleed the hydraulics, they work the air out themselves. My guess is your lift cylinder is leaking by a bit.
I keep them down when implements are on it, but when mowing uneven ground I'll raise it a bit and after a bit it seems to leak down cutting groove in ground with the leading edge. And when no implement it seems to leak down with nothing on it. I was leaving it up in both situations temporarily, just to test it to see of it would hold without leaking down. I haven't used it yet with disc and or my grader so I wanted to make sure it is address for situations where it need to hold where put. Any videos dealing with where that leak might be? Thanks. Great Channel by the way.
@@7blueblaze Sorry, I misunderstood. Is your lever staying in position? When the tractor is running it should automatically lift the mower back up if it drops a bit to match the lever position. I'm sorry I'm not that up on hydraulic systems.
The most common way is to run the pressure line from the pump through the loader valve to the lift unit. You have to use a "power beyond" loader control valve which has a second return line running from it which would hook into the fill hole on the lift unit by way of a pipe tee. Thanks for watching!
Hello Dave I have a B 414 and don't know how to get the front end bucket up.....do you have a tutorial on how to uses all of the levers under seat tonoperate
There are a few different methods of connecting the loader to operate the controls. I expect you are going to have to open a valve to the loader and close the valve to the rear lift to operate your loader. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dave, for the video.. I lost my manual, so I had to look for a good video for a 444 Diesel.. Now I remember the locations because of it.. Thanks again..
The Problem: Hydraulic Steering hose cracked and fluid was spewing to right side of tractor. My tractor is 1969 International 444 Diesel. I'm not a mechanic nor experienced farmer, but have had great service from this tractor for 17 years. Apparently, I'm not kind to equipment because I have broken or worn out many pieces of equipment working timber and cattle on 40 acres in hot humid SE Texas. However, this tractor I acquired in the purchase of the farm, has yet to fail me. The Problem: Hydraulic Steering hose cracked and fluid was spewing to right side of tractor. I see there are two hoses. Since the tractor was still steering to the left without spewing fluid, 1) can I know that only the 1 hose leaking needs to be replaced? 2) I will begin my search for a replacement hose now that I have found you for referencing along the way. Thank you for all your videos. Your detailed explanations are very useful to the simple-minded, or ignorant such as myself. I will continue to view and enjoy your TH-cam channel. Darryl
wondering if u have any videos on how to change the hydraulic fluids etc on a international 574 backhoe and front loader just bought it and want to change the oil and filter and fluids thanks
My new 444 when bought they said it was really hard to start. she needed a shit load of brake cleaner to start, running the blowby was worse then the exhaust it would pop off, i popped off the head actually the pistons look good a tiny bit of carbon on the head, injectors looked good too. head gasket had a tear not sure if it was taken off, most likely not, cyl wall still had cross pattern. was thinking std rings set. a light honing. not really into new cyl kit.. already bought starter, modern glow plugs ,H8 battery, love the sound of it. oh valves look really clean too no pits nothing. maybe all the brake cleaner lol
The blow by certainly could have come from the head gasket and a set of rings wouldn't be a bad idea, it could have over heated and taken the tension out of the rings. Thanks for watching!
Hello Michael, I read a comment you put 2 years ago on video of a fuel leak on a 7.3, you mentioned a specific filter. I am trying to find out more information about how to clean the screen and change the filter. Any way we could speak? Thank you
Thank you for this video! So helpful. I know nothing about anything mechanical. Just bought a very old very poorly maintained IH 434 Diesel. I can’t figure out what year exactly (SN B27396). It’s dumping oil or hydraulic fluid. Seems to need a new solenoid. Doesnt start unless I bang on it. I’m very rough shape. 1:10 Have been trying to find someone to help me maintain but doesn’t seem to be any tractor mechanics around. Any suggestions for BC? I think with this video I can at least see now how to keep topping up the hydraulic fluid until I can replace the lines. Please keep making easy to use and videos with what tools needed etc. so so so so so helpful!
Thanks very much Dave. I just changed the engine oil in a diesel B414 I'm trying to get running. Many fuel problems because it's been setting 10 years. The spring and washer is missing from the oil filter canister. I knew something was wrong. I was asking myself how does this work? Now I know and have to get the part numbers and find them.
Thank you for this video. I own a B414 and was wondering what the hose is that comes out the side of the lower coolant radiator hose and goes up and over to the left side into the engine block. Can I get rid of this hose?
Of course I forged ahead with these jobs before watching your excellent video. Needless to say the oil filter bit didn't go according to plans. The two large concave washers fell out of the filter canister before I had figured out what order they were supposed to be in. Don't even ask l if I checked/replaced the top O ring. Anyway, now I know. Thanks.
Hi, I am new at this but at beginning of video you removed 3 drain plugs but only filled in one place...is this correct, that one fill point,was for the three points drained...
Yes, the transmission and differential cases are all filled from the one spot. There are 3 plugs because there are three low spots in the cases so to drain all the oil you need the three plugs. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave Your videos are great. I have a 1964 B414. The suction filter looks like it hasn’t been out in years. It seems impossible to move. I have tried hammering and a little heat but no go. Do you have any tips for this. Thanks John
I have finally got the filter off by using more force and more hammering. The problem was that the oil was full of water and the filter was rusted in. Thanks for your help. John
Do you know where to get the suction screen? The one with the curved pipe is the wrong size pipe unless they have an adapter I don’t know about. Last time I had to weld the correct pipe to the screen and that damaged the fine outer screen. The suction screen under the right of the seat. I have not seen one available since my b414 diesel 16 years ago. I have a 1967 2444 gas now that uses that same hydraulic filter suction screen.
@@jethrobodine9867 The only one I have seen available new is the one with the 3/4" pipe for standard steering, with power steering the suction pipe is 1".
Hi I have a 1959 b275 it does not have the rear drain plug to empty the hydraulic oil like the one in this video any ideas great video now I know how to drain my trans thanks
I just bought what I believe to be a 444 with bd154 my steering has great big heavy duty cylinder across under the axle and this tractor sits low has 16.1 rear tuff tires. Was told it came from a air force base and was used for mowing slopes. Serial number plate is gone. I need some help identifying exactly what I have purchased. It runs fair but has a few small issues and missing sheet metal . The peaces that go around under the hood and behind the grill. I would sure like to email you some pictures of it
Great video has helped me with my old IH444. My manual mentions removing and cleaning/replacing an orifice filter behind a bolt when servicing hydraulics. Have not serviced it yet, do you change this filter ?
Hello, Have question..I have a 1964 IH 424 diesel tractor..I cannot get the hydraulic filter to break free. Wanting to take out and clean filter. I have put channel lock, and wise grips and that didn't do it. then i put a heavy hose on hydraulic line and hooked a chain and 4-wheeler to try to jerk.. that didn't work either..any suggestion on how to get off...Thanks
I suspect that some wise soul has stuck in there with some sort of sealant and basically glued it in. About the only thing you can do is to keep wiggling on it til it breaks free. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, Great video. Very useful. I have a 444 that was my grandfather's tractor. I never really new how to check and drain transmission oil. And how to check hydraulic oil level. Thanks, David from Vermont.
Ive got a1962 - B275 w Mechanical Depth Control (NOT Vary Touch) and experiencing two issues changing Hydraulic Fluid 1) no drain plug in this model - does all the fluid drain from the suction filter once removed? if not how do i drain the fluid out? 2) i have remove the collar and slid it up, however the filter seems to be seized in. will not turn up or or pull out. is it maybe rusted in? any tips?
On the models with mechanical depth control the fluid drains from the filter hole, you can help it along by having the tractor tipped down hill a little bit. The filter is held in place by the friction of the o-ring that seals it. If they've been in place for a long time they do stick a bit. Use a large pair of pliers, I use channel locks, to wiggle it free. You do have to remove the lever bracket on the models with mechanical depth control. Thanks for watching!
For the engine use a good quality diesel engine oil (we use Rotella 15-40), the transmission should have an 80w90 gear oil, and the hydraulic system is recommended to use CaseIH HyTran oil. Thanks for watching!
Hello - thank you for sharing your know-how. My request would be for a how to change the fan belts on a b414. My unit has (or had) two belts, the one closer to the engine bloc broke. My shop manual does make things clear for me. Thank you!
So the 3 drainplugs from transmission drain the same compartment? And same compartment is refilled only by the fillerhole next to the gear lever? Thanks for the video
I haven't on a 384 specifically, you will need the bearings for the worm shaft and probably some shims for where the tube bolts to the top of the gear box. Thanks for watching!
Did you stick a screw driver or something in the hole to see if there is anything blocking it? There are at least a couple of pretty decent size passage ways for the oil to migrate to the front case, it would take a lot to block them. Thanks for watching!
great video but i couldnt see what you did under the pedals on the adjuster i just picked up a 1958 international 420 utility when i shut it off and apply the parking breaks they won't hold on a hill id appreciate any help thanks al
I have 67 HI 424 I drained all three plugs , I poured 6 gal of 90 weight in where you filled your tractor . no oil seamed to get in trans . so I removed plug on right side at floorboard then I filled trans at level plug on left side , and now when I use tractor gear oil comes out around the starter . Do you have any idea's?
@@brandonbonter7341 A 424 would be similar but I can't say if it would be the same or not. You can get filters at a CaseIH dealer, TSC, or auto parts store. I would use a good quality diesel engine oil in 10w30 for a gas or 15w40 for a diesel. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dave, can i use propane heat torch to see if that will help loosen the sealant. Also I need two IH ST443 Bearing for axles, one for each side. 68mm Id x 120mm od x 23mm width. i can find bearing with 65mm Id, but they want fit and slide over axle..Thanks
@@CanadianRedneck15 I heated it, then sprayed water on it to cool and the 2nd time it broke loose..Filter was super nasty, glad i was able to get off..Any advise on the ST443 bearing..Thanks
I have an IH 2350 which I think is an Industrial version of a 235 or similar the hydraulics look the same as the one in your video, the loader hydraulics suddenly stopped working, I have drained the fluid and refilled, and I can’t figure out why I have no hydraulics, any idea where I should check next? I may have overfilled the fluid, as there is a hydraulic fitting in my fill port, I had to take the top plate off to fill the oil. Also can you confirm the correct grade of hydraulic oil. Thanks
@@CanadianRedneck15 it says 2350 on the hood, there are no numbers on the loader? Can the spool valves suddenly go bad, that was the next thing I was going to check
@@CanadianRedneck15 the hydraulic filter is the same as you showed in your video for the 444, I took it out and cleaned it although it appeared clean, I could not see any other filters. I took the pump off and checked for damage and I could not find any issues. Which makes me think either the valves under the seat, or the spool valves, is there a pressure relief valve, could that have stuck open?
Hi my canada 434 doesnt have hydrolic ports at the back. Can i hook the implements hoses up to the ports for the loader? I would have to make adaptor as it would be male to male thx
Yes, we did that for certain implements. You can put the bucket tilt on quick couplers and use that part of the loader valve to control your implement. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 ok great thx. My tilt has quick couplers, the boom up and down is hard tied in, tho only 1 hose so gravity is all that lets it down. Is that normal theres no ports out the back also theres no foot throttle? I was surprised theres not. Tia
@@rebelcowboy5.7l98 That is a 1501 loader, no down pressure. There were no hydraulic remotes on this series of tractor and no foot throttle til the 444.
Hi Dave, I have a IH444, the hydraulic drain plug is not male like yours i.e cannot use a spanner, it has a 4 sided square indent and I need a bar to undo it, it is also damaged so hard to get out or tighten. Mine has a magnet glued to the back and is about 7/8" dia and 3/4" long and has about 7 threads. Can you tell me the size/threads/type of your drain plug ? I can't find it in any of the manuals. Thanks in advance, greetings from Scotland.
hey I have a 1969 B-276 gas I cant seem to find the drain plug for the hydraulics it isnt in the same spot as the video,and the fill plug is in a different spot as well.I am having trouble finding info on this tractor I am told it is a B-275 with the same sheet metal as B-434,I know they look the same. thanks Matt
@@mattjenkins1336 you will have to drain from the suction line coming out of the bottom right on the front of the lift unit. Be a good idea to pull the filter out and clean it at the same time.
hey I changed a hydraulic hose today on the tractor that was leaking.After I changed it I tried all the hydraulics they worked fine.Then I let the tractor warm up went out to use it and none of hydraulics worked.What do you think would cause that?
On my trater win I trun my lights on in its running it's ok but win I trun the lights off in the trater in get reddy to use it again the lights stop working all of the lights work but not the headlights in it keeps blowing a fuse were do you think that I should look at 1st to see what happening with it.
I just inherited a B-414, Love you videos, I have learned a lot from the about 414, But I have a question, the starter is bad I removed it and counted the teeth, it has 11 all I see for sale on internet for these tractors have just 10 teeth. are these suppose to work?
Thanks for info on starter, Your videos are great. But now I have another question. this tractor has a speedometer/techometer but doesn't have a cable hooked to it and can't find a place to hook on to. the alternator is gone, I saw somewhere that cable hooked to back of it?? What I did find was on eBay was a tech drive unit that bolts to side of block where the distributor would be on a gas engine but it has a plug similar to a freeze plug presses in it. My question is if I pop that plug out can I mount the tech drive unit there, is there something under plug to turn the tech drive unit???? @@CanadianRedneck15
@@dannyvaughn8149 The tach drive would run off of the oil pump under that frost plug. I've never seen one with a frost plug there, some PO must have removed the gear box and stuck a plug in the hole.
Thank you, you are awesome.. I will remove that plug and buy a tech drive and cable.. I had searched for a place to hook up that cable and saw a full restoration of a 414 and saw that tech drive mounted and that was how I found out where it went. Again Thank You for sharing your expertise on these tractors..@@CanadianRedneck15
Happy new year lad! Is there a video of you changing the water pump on your international b414? (I had previously cleaned the radiator and the piping system, but when im using the rotavator the engine overheats). Thank you for your help!
Happy new year to you as well! I don't have a video on changing the water pump, sorry. Check your fan belt, it can slip under load if it's not tight and causing heating when the tractor is working hard. Thanks for watching!
@@siriossirios2178 The pulley on the water pump is a 2 piece pulley, the front half is threaded onto the rest of the pulley and held in place by a set screw. Back off the set screw and tighten the front half against the belt, when it's tight enough line up the set screw with one of the 4 grooves through the threads and tighten the set screw and jam nut.
Hi Dave. I Did the hydraulic fluid change exactly as yours. My 444 has a loader that was working ok before I did the change. Now it won't lift at all!! Eventually managed to get to lift, but needed very high revs and took ages to lift fully. I was hoping that when I released down (gravity not controlled cylinders) it would work, but it does not work at all now. I was wondering when I wiggled the filter pipe the same pipe was roating that goes into the pump via two jubilee clips. I cannot get to these clips due to the loader,. Wondering if air is getting in at that point ? any help much appreciated, thanks. P.S didn't touch the orifice filter.
@@CanadianRedneck15 Hi Yes I rechecked the level after all this trying, it had gone down by 1cm and it was frothy on the screwdriver, before, it was clear. Update, next day reversed up hill and added more oil so full to brim, and left oil plug off. Draft control lever fully forward as normal, tried position lever with isolation tap closed, no loader movement. Tried again with iso tap open, no movement of 3pt. Also looking through filler hole saw no oil movement throughout this. Moved draft control full back and saw oil movement and loader moved up very slowly, also 3pt moved. Lowering loader made oil overflow out of refill hole. Turned tractor off, drained some oil out so back to 7cm on screwdriver, put draft to fully forward, also tightened jubilee clip on pump input. Start tractor, this time the 3pt and loader work with position lever as originally before oil change. 3pt slow but always has been but loader very very slow and does not speed up with higher revs. Also oil is clear again. Phew sorry for ramblings. So things a lot better than before, but have you any idea why the loader is so slow ?
im not a mechanic and I love your videos I have a old 2400b International gasser just wondering the 1st two plugs you pulled are both gear box oil and what wt oil do you recommend thanks for the info and videos
You should double check because I believe with some of the industrials the transmission/differential was also the hydraulic reservoir. If the hydraulic oil is separate then I'd use 80/w90 in the trans/dif. Thanks for watching!
any advice on what to replace that gasket on the bottom of that oil filter housing with? the one on top of those washers over that bolt head. mine leaked something bad, i permatexed a new one, still leaks.
Hello, I had reviewed your video last summer WRT changing rear axle and it help me greatly in replacing my axle on my B414, thank you. My tractor is fixed. Since you are the expert with these types of tractor, if you don't mind, I would ask your advice on this other problem I am having with my B414 Inter for about two winters now. During the cold months, the transmission is hard to engage. From neutral, gears are grinding even though I press on the clutch and I have to wait sometimes more than 20 sec before the gear stop turning. Once engaged, I would push on the clutch and the transmission stick for another 5-6 seconds( it is a long time when you use a snowblower!) specially when in 1st or reverse (the two gear I use to snowblow). I think the clutch is good and I read somewhere that it could be a oil viscosity problem.(too thick). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a B414, diesel 4 cyl, 1962, 4 low and 4 high. Thank you.
We had the same problem with our 384 (Newer model of the same tractor), that is a worn pressure plate not disengaging the clutch. You may be able to adjust the levers to get a little more life out of it but the best bet is to replace the clutch and pressure plate. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video! So helpful. I know nothing about anything mechanical. Just bought a very old very poorly maintained IH 434 Diesel. I can’t figure out what year exactly (SN B27396). It’s dumping oil or hydraulic fluid. Seems to need a new solenoid. Doesnt start unless I bang on it. Have been trying to find someone to help me maintain but doesn’t seem to be any tractor mechanics around. Any suggestions for BC? I think with this video I can at least see now how to keep topping up the hydraulic fluid until I can replace the lines. Please keep making easy to u sweat and videos with what tools needed etc. so so so so so helpful!
Thanks for this video. My dad had a 434 gas and I just bought a property that came with a B414. How about doing a video on servicing the steering box on a B414. My tractor’s manual steering is very, very stiff. Kooky setup with the steering column going down through the fuel tank!🇨🇦👍🏻
Jack the front end up and steer it that way, you may need thrust bearings for the front spindles or they may just need greased. I do have a video on rebuilding the steering box here th-cam.com/video/YjUDRWeNCfE/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
Recently acquired my fathers IH 444 and your videos have been extremely helpful in getting it back to snuff!
I am glad you've enjoyed the videos, thanks for watching!
I recently acquired a 1967 IH 444 as well. By chance, do you know what type of oil, and hydronic fluid? This video did not specifically. He only mentioned the transmission fluid type
It is refreshing to see a mechanic not wearing rubber gloves and using air or electric tools. I continue to find myself watching your videos when i need to learn more about my 444. THANKS!
LOL, I guess I'm kinda old school, I hate gloves, I can't feel anything and can't pick anything up with them on. Thanks for watching!
We had 250, 275 and 414 Tractors, but never realised that they had that hydraulic oil screen. Never had any oily problems with them, even when loading sugar beet for the cows, at 06:00 on a cold -15C morning. . . . . .Thanks for the video. . . . . .
Those series of tractors are hard to beat. In my opinion they are the best tractors in that HP range built by anyone ever! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I have watched a few times as I inherited a b414 this year that had been sitting. I was mostly watching transmission and hydraulic, but I watched the engine oil also. I'm glad. Mine had the spring and washer, however it was installed above the element forcing it away from the housing. If I had not watched, I might have reinstalled the same way. Thanks
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
thank. you, thank you, thank you. We just picked up a 1961 B275 .Trying to get info on it . and this has answered what three days of googling could not. Thanks again from a fellow Canukistanian.
That's great, I'm glad I could help, thanks for watching!
Great video thanks - about to do my first service of a 414 we bought a year ago. This video has given me a bit more confidence about exactly how to go about it.
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15Possibly a dumb question, but do you know what the screw on the top of the filter head is for?
The operators and workshop manual don't mention it at all, and so I guess it is unnecessary to mess with when replacing the filter? My only guess is it makes pre-filling easier, which also appears to be optional?
@@ferrouswheel On the oil filter head? Possibly to access a pressure relief valve?
Virgin 414 owner here, first tractor . Great video...really helpful!
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks fopr watching!
Nice video, i have a 444, spending some time and money on it now, new starter and alternator, the old one was burnt out. Also changing oil filter housing to a spin on type for easier filter change.
I just bought a 444 diesel missing starter, would you happen to have the part number for the starter,
@@jamesjackson3047 STO187A on www.okonomi-deler.no
Glad you mentioned the spring and washer inside the eng. oil canister . Over the years I can't tell you how many of them are missing, doesn't matter the make or model of the tractor. It may have been good to mention to have the engine at operating temp. and drive it around before draining the fluids so as to get the sediment suspended and drained out.
That is a good point about warming the tractor up, thanks for mentioning that and thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Watched some of your other videos great info, thanks for your post.
Hi Dave,
About a month ago I contacted you after, because, as it turned out, the transmission on my 354 diesel took on water, water froze up solid, needed a thaw, drained, and new fluids. That was done. Separately, the plastic tube that goes from the intake manifold to the front cover where the fuel pump gear is located broke.That I replaced. It started. So far so good. And thank you for your help with the change of fluids youtube!
However, these previous events may have something to do with the reason for my question. After all this occurred, I started the tractor and it imeadiately began to rev-up to the max and the kill knob wouldn't stop it. I had to turn off the fuel to shut it down. The only other issue that could have possibly been involved has to due with the upper of the two bleed bolts on the fuel pump. The lower smaller one seems to be original. The upper, slightly larger one appears to be jury-rigged. It's longer bolt than necessary and has had a nut put on it to shorten the distance it goes into the fuel pump. That is - you tighten the nut rather than the bolt. At this point it goes in about an 3/4 to an inch farther than needed. Maybe that has interfered with or damaged what ever's going on inside. Or.. maybe the pump needs to be repaired or replaced.
In any case, I would appreciate your thoughts!
Best,
Steve
The jury rigged upper bleed screw could be interfering with the pumps governor system keeping it wide open.
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks! Dave, I'll replace it and let you know what happens.
Hello again Dave,
Back to the jury rigged bleed screw, I removed the lower bleed screw and it came to a point that fit a seat. So while the upper jury rig bleeder is just a bolt one with a flat face, I don't see how that's the cause of the problem - and it's never been a problem before.Of course i'm looking for the simplest and cheapest way out, but fear I may have to send the pump out for a full rebuild. $$$$. Is it possible to repair the issue rather than go the whole 9 yds? If not can you suggest then most reasonable folks to send it to please? Always great for your help!
@@StephenMack-ut9vf There's a guy in Moncton that is good, Joe the pump guy 506-858-8146.
Thanks Dave!
ONE OF THE BEST, RELIABLE 33 - 40 PTO HORSE POWER TRACTORS BUILT. OUR OLDEST 434D HAS PASSED THE 10 THOUSAND MARK & STILL RUNS GREAT. BOTH 434 D'S WERE PURCHASED NEW. I ABERAGE I GALLON FUEL BURN PER HOUR WHEN BALING. SET THE RPM @ 1850 RPM. VERY STRONG TORQUE RANGE. SAD DAY WHEN IHC AG DIVISION WAS ABSORBED BY CASE.
I agree on all counts. The 384 you see in many of our videos has over 15 K hours on it. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video ,just bought a 444 and was trying to figure out what trans fluid to use , now i know , the manual is not specific, well not to a retired electrician , hey man keep up these great videos , greetings from Ontario .
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video and greetings to you from NB. Thanks for watching!
I am watching allo of your vedio lately because i just bought a 444 and i am rebuilding it and all your vedio are perfect love that you mention everything since its my first tracter and i was looking for parts i was asking my dad and the guy i bought the tracter from he allready bight parts from a guy in sessex and my dad said there a guy that bought a bunch of tracter from us way back 15 years ago hes from sessex next thing i know all that time its you haha i will give you a call tomorrow thanks.
LOL Small world!
Thank you for this awesome video. I have a 434 and never thinkered around a tractor before. Now i can flush the whole system and give it a new top up.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
a big thanks! i have an D320 , passed to me by my late grandfather, i need to change all the fluids as the tractor was 10 years waiting on the outside to be rescued, i'll use this video for better understanding, its not the same tractor but i think its very similar 🤔
It should at least be a guide. Thanks for watching!
Best international tractor vid....you have saved me so much time . Thanks from Tasmania Australia
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
I picked up a 414 diesel and i had no manuals this helped greatly thanks.
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for asking!
First is a big thank you for your time on making these videos...It is a huge help to a newbie like myself. I will have many questions in the future but an important one to hopefully help me and others is regarding the level or amount of hydraulic fluid when refilling. The manual does say three gallons but it also says to fill to the TOP of the housing...and many other people are saying the same thing around the Internet...I am just trying to be sure on which level is the correct method as I am brand new to anything hydraulic related and want to service my newly acquired B414 before using it.
The original owners manual states 3 inches of fluid level. You don't want to fill it as the oil will expand when heated and there needs to be space for the level to vary as cylinders are filled and emptied. If the reservoir is over filled you stand a chance of .blowing seals out from pressure when the oil expands.
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful. Looking at purchasing a 444 so I now have a heads up. Thanks for the easy to follow info.
444s are pretty amazing for their size, really great tractors.
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Hello, Thank you for this informative video.I have a B275 and wasn't sure about the hydraulic level and what oil to use. I Found the answer in your video and comments. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
That's great, I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Thank you, I just purchased a 2444 IH tractor with a 2040 loader. The loader stopped working it's full of fluid so next I will check filter. Keep making the videos.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
I also have a 2444 with front auxiliary hydraulic pump. I have a manual if you need anything. Let us know how you made out?
I did it! Got my hydraulics working again on my B414! The hose connecting the hydraulic filter was leaking - among other places - but was bad there. I removed the hydraulic filter and cleaned it, and then things went to h*ll in a handbasket. Couldn't find a replacement hose. Then after a month of being told "what I really needed" I finally got what you said, i.e. hydraulic suction hose, but couldn't get the clips to go back on. After swearing heard round the world, I put on some eyeglasses and turned on a bright light and could see someone had cut the screws short on the clamps, probably because they were rubbing their leg. So the screws were now really short, or the hose was too heavy, and the screw threads on the end were rolled from the cutting and despite a plethora of tools and clamps, they would not screw together. AHHHHHH!!!!! So I stepped outside the box, got some screw clamps, and done and done! Only took me two months.
Well done! A lot of these jobs require a little patience and creative thinking. I am always happy to hear people success stories!
Help please! Just put my 444 back together after full engine rebuild and it’s sucking thru exhaust and blowing thru intake... did I put crank in 180 out? And what’s easiest way to correct this oops?! Thank you again !
Timing is everything, you answered yourself there.
I inherited a 444. Changed all the fluids, cleaned the screen, thanks for the video. Loader is still jumpy, slow to raise it up. Acts like the pump is starving for fluid. Any advice on things to check would be appreciated.
Check the rubber hoses for leaks where the pump could be sucking air. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for saving me a headache to try finding out how to do this.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
This is very helpful and thank you for a brilliant video mate,am from England and just got a 354
Congratulations a 354 is a fine tractor. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful! I look forward to servicing my B-275 using your instructions.
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Just got a 384 4wd 81 mod. Now itt wil be easy to service it. Tanks from Norway.
Very cool, I just learned something too, I didn't realise that a 384 could be 4WD. Thanks for watching!
Enjoy your simple sensible manner of doing things. Thanks.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thank you very much im having a go at servicing my fathers old Hi 474 and this video was exactly what I was looking for to show me how
The 474 is a different series of tractor, the transmission/differential is the hydraulic reservoir. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thank you for pointing that out much appreciated
Hi Simon. Did you manage to get it done. I have 474 too. Couldn't use any hydraulics today. Saw some fluid leakage by a hydraulic hose. Where do you fill the oil, and which type/qty did you end up using? Best wishes
@@CanadianRedneck15 Is the story about poor brakes the same for a 474. My 474 brakes aren't working either...
@@madsvinding4409 The 474 has an internal wet disk brake located on the inside end of the rear axles. If the brake pedal feels good the you likely need to replace the disks, if you have a soft pedal try bleeding the brakes. You could have worn master cylinders or bad o-rings by the disks. Thanks for watching!
Glad to see you are back at the tractor repair videos . looking forward to more old Massey videos.
Greeting from Mexico
Thank you for your support, I really appreciate it. I'm sure I will be having more Massey's through soon. Thanks for watching!
Just bought my first tractor, a 434, this video great help so well described thanks, got to read up on the speed/torque amplifier it has fitted though as it got a Filter too 🤦♂️
I guess I didn't realize that you could get a TA in a 434. There shouldn't be a filter for it, I expect it would be a straight mechanical TA. Thanks for watching!
allo parler vous francais jai un 1970 434 internationnnal harvester au gaz cest la meme chose ....peut on tulisiser de huile tdh pour hydraulique et transmission aussi?
You can use TDH in the transmission but it's better to use gear oil for the transmission/differential. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 gear oil is 80w90?
@@tilou32 Yes 80w90
Excellent, very clear. Recommend adding fluid volume and specs. Many thanks
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Yeah, I've got a B275 that I picked up 10 years ago and other than oil changes every couple of years just because, I don't think we ever put more than 2 or 3 hours a year on it dragging equipment around the yard at the shop. Now we have it at the family farms in Texas putting out hay, and I realized I'd forgotten how to do everything but the oil changes. I'll have to look at it, but, you're saying there is a drain plug for the gearbox/transmission, and then a drain plug for the rear end, but they both get filled at a plug by the shifter? Also, the B275 'Jensales' all in one service manual (unless I"m missing a section), was really lousy about covering maintenance, but it seems to state that the preferred hydraulic fluid is SAE 20 motor oil for mid-range temps. I didn't get the manuals for a few years after we got it, and at the time it seemed to have clear-ish hydraulic fluid, so we added whatever the International dealer in Okanogan WA at the time had in 5 gallon containers when I had to replace some gaskets on the hydraulic valve body. It seems to work fine, we're lifting 1000 lb round bales with it now, but, do you have a recommendation one way or the other? Thanks again, it certainly is a fun little tractor now that we use it regularly.
There should be 3 drain plugs, one at the back half of the clutch housing, one under the transmission, and one at the back for the differential, and they all fill from the plug by the shifter.
For the hydraulics our dealer always recommended CaseIH Hytran oil but if you're using regular hydraulic oil and it's working fine don't worry about it.
The 275 is a great tractor, much sturdier than competitors in it's size range.
Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 I finally made it down to the farm we're using it on tonight and took a look at it after your video, yep, now it all makes sense! Thanks for the response, yeah, I like it because it's compact and so far, is lifting the big round bales just fine. I do see some fluid changes and a little maintenance in my future though. Thanks again!
How do you retain a 574 gas motor and what degrees do you set it at
I'm sorry, I don't have any specs on the gas engine for a 574. Thanks for watching!
Can you give me any ideas or would you know anybody up in Canada that would have an idea on how to set it I tried sending it by ear and I can't get it close enough keeps popping
@@donrosencrance9496 Check with th eboys at the Red Power Magazine forum, they can probably help you out.
thank you. i just found you recently. and then you are covering a tractor close to mine. i just got a 354. and about to do all this to it lol. i just cleaned it up painted it. fixed lot lil issues first. but don't have the $ to dump into fluids etc now. its like 150$ in my area to change just trans and hydro oil. then oil looks like another 75$ shew wee. LOL. but I'm gonna and i think remove the top of the trans and fix what i think is a leak. seen a bunch of blue rtv. grrr i hate that stuff. ill make a gasket if its not to bad to remove the shifter fork plate.
IH 444 IHB414 hydraulic oil change and filter replaced.
Hydraulics on the rear controlling the bush hog will not stay up after cuttimg off the tractor and seemingly leak down over a period of time if bushhog is left in the up position.
And even when hydralics are set at a position to go to another field. will have the bush hog lowering without do it from the hydr controls.
Several people have said it is air in the system after changing the hydraulic fluid and that it needs to be bled.
Does this sound correct to you, and if so, do I just slighly (just enough) crack a filler plug while tractor is running to bleed off some pressure till fluid comes out or is there another location and or techniques.
Around or supposed to be a 1969 model.
Thanks
Why would you leave it parked with the mower up? That is leaving pressure on things for no purpose, always leave your implements lowered to the ground. No need to bleed the hydraulics, they work the air out themselves. My guess is your lift cylinder is leaking by a bit.
I keep them down when implements are on it, but when mowing uneven ground I'll raise it a bit and after a bit it seems to leak down cutting groove in ground with the leading edge.
And when no implement it seems to leak down with nothing on it.
I was leaving it up in both situations temporarily, just to test it to see of it would hold without leaking down.
I haven't used it yet with disc and or my grader so I wanted to make sure it is address for situations where it need to hold where put.
Any videos dealing with where that leak might be?
Thanks.
Great Channel by the way.
@@7blueblaze Sorry, I misunderstood. Is your lever staying in position? When the tractor is running it should automatically lift the mower back up if it drops a bit to match the lever position.
I'm sorry I'm not that up on hydraulic systems.
Yes, both levers stay in the position they are set.
Recon I'll just live with it or I'll eventually figure it out.
Thanks.
Thanx for the show where can i get engine oil cap inside rubber is worn out
You will likely have to check the used market or see if you can find a generic one that fits. Thanks for watching!
Nice video lots of help. question where do you attach the pressure and return line from loader lever thank you.
The most common way is to run the pressure line from the pump through the loader valve to the lift unit. You have to use a "power beyond" loader control valve which has a second return line running from it which would hook into the fill hole on the lift unit by way of a pipe tee. Thanks for watching!
Hello Dave
I have a B 414 and don't know how to get the front end bucket up.....do you have a tutorial on how to uses all of the levers under seat tonoperate
There are a few different methods of connecting the loader to operate the controls. I expect you are going to have to open a valve to the loader and close the valve to the rear lift to operate your loader. Thanks for watching!
Great video but would be good to know the specifications of the oils I need to use.
Engine oil SAE 30, 10W30 or 15W40. Gear oil 80W90. Hydraulic, CaseIH HyTran oil. Thanks for watching!
I sure do appreciate this video. I had no idea about the hydraulic filter
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thanks Dave, for the video.. I lost my manual, so I had to look for a good video for a 444 Diesel.. Now I remember the locations because of it..
Thanks again..
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
The Problem:
Hydraulic Steering hose cracked and fluid was spewing to right side of tractor.
My tractor is 1969 International 444 Diesel. I'm not a mechanic nor experienced farmer, but have had great service from this tractor for 17 years. Apparently, I'm not kind to equipment because I have broken or worn out many pieces of equipment working timber and cattle on 40 acres in hot humid SE Texas. However, this tractor I acquired in the purchase of the farm, has yet to fail me.
The Problem:
Hydraulic Steering hose cracked and fluid was spewing to right side of tractor. I see there are two hoses. Since the tractor was still steering to the left without spewing fluid, 1) can I know that only the 1 hose leaking needs to be replaced?
2) I will begin my search for a replacement hose now that I have found you for referencing along the way.
Thank you for all your videos. Your detailed explanations are very useful to the simple-minded, or ignorant such as myself.
I will continue to view and enjoy your TH-cam channel. Darryl
I am glad you have found my videos helpful and you are correct, you will only need to replace the one hose.
Thanks for watching!
wondering if u have any videos on how to change the hydraulic fluids etc on a international 574 backhoe and front loader just bought it and want to change the oil and filter and fluids thanks
I don't have one, I've not had a 574 backhoe to work on. Thanks for watching!
My new 444 when bought they said it was really hard to start. she needed a shit load of brake cleaner to start, running the blowby was worse then the exhaust it would pop off, i popped off the head actually the pistons look good a tiny bit of carbon on the head, injectors looked good too. head gasket had a tear not sure if it was taken off, most likely not, cyl wall still had cross pattern. was thinking std rings set. a light honing. not really into new cyl kit.. already bought starter, modern glow plugs ,H8 battery, love the sound of it. oh valves look really clean too no pits nothing. maybe all the brake cleaner lol
one last thing what a joy to pull apart, no back breaking bending,
The blow by certainly could have come from the head gasket and a set of rings wouldn't be a bad idea, it could have over heated and taken the tension out of the rings. Thanks for watching!
Could you do a video of how to use and best settings of the valves / handles for the hydraulics on these old beauties
I will keep that in mind for a future video. Thanks for watching!
Hello Michael,
I read a comment you put 2 years ago on video of a fuel leak on a 7.3, you mentioned a specific filter. I am trying to find out more information about how to clean the screen and change the filter. Any way we could speak? Thank you
I'm Dave and I don't have any videos about 7.3s, I think you're looking for someone else.
Thank you for this video! So helpful. I know nothing about anything mechanical. Just bought a very old very poorly maintained IH 434 Diesel. I can’t figure out what year exactly (SN B27396).
It’s dumping oil or hydraulic fluid. Seems to need a new solenoid. Doesnt start unless I bang on it. I’m very rough shape. 1:10
Have been trying to find someone to help me maintain but doesn’t seem to be any tractor mechanics around.
Any suggestions for BC?
I think with this video I can at least see now how to keep topping up the hydraulic fluid until I can replace the lines.
Please keep making easy to use and videos with what tools needed etc. so so so so so helpful!
I am glad you enjoyed the video. 434s were built from 1966-1969. I don't know any mechanics in BC, sorry. Thanks for watching!
Thanks very much Dave.
I just changed the engine oil in a diesel B414 I'm trying to get running. Many fuel problems because it's been setting 10 years.
The spring and washer is missing from the oil filter canister. I knew something was wrong. I was asking myself how does this work? Now I know and have to get the part numbers and find them.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I own a B414 and was wondering what the hose is that comes out the side of the lower coolant radiator hose and goes up and over to the left side into the engine block. Can I get rid of this hose?
My guess would be that someone had a circulating heater hooked to that hose, you can remove it. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 You rock, thank you. Going to remove it and put a plug into the side of the engine block. Thank you again.
Of course I forged ahead with these jobs before watching your excellent video.
Needless to say the oil filter bit didn't go according to plans. The two large concave washers fell out of the filter canister before I had figured out what order they were supposed to be in. Don't even ask l if I checked/replaced the top O ring. Anyway, now I know. Thanks.
LOL, that sounds familiar. Don't worry about it, most of learn the hard way, thanks for watching!
Hi, I am new at this but at beginning of video you removed 3 drain plugs but only filled in one place...is this correct, that one fill point,was for the three points drained...
Yes, the transmission and differential cases are all filled from the one spot. There are 3 plugs because there are three low spots in the cases so to drain all the oil you need the three plugs. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave
Your videos are great. I have a 1964 B414.
The suction filter looks like it hasn’t been out in years.
It seems impossible to move. I have tried hammering and a little heat but no go.
Do you have any tips for this.
Thanks
John
I usually use a large pair of channel lock pliers and it will generally wiggle out. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I have finally got the filter off by using more force and more hammering. The problem was that the oil was full of water and the filter was rusted in. Thanks for your help.
John
That's great John, I'm glad you got it sorted out.
Do you know where to get the suction screen? The one with the curved pipe is the wrong size pipe unless they have an adapter I don’t know about.
Last time I had to weld the correct pipe to the screen and that damaged the fine outer screen. The suction screen under the right of the seat. I have not seen one available since my b414 diesel 16 years ago. I have a 1967 2444 gas now that uses that same hydraulic filter suction screen.
@@jethrobodine9867 The only one I have seen available new is the one with the 3/4" pipe for standard steering, with power steering the suction pipe is 1".
Hi I have a 1959 b275 it does not have the rear drain plug to empty the hydraulic oil like the one in this video any ideas great video now I know how to drain my trans thanks
You'll have to look around a bit, there should be one in that general area. Thanks for watching!
I just bought what I believe to be a 444 with bd154 my steering has great big heavy duty cylinder across under the axle and this tractor sits low has 16.1 rear tuff tires. Was told it came from a air force base and was used for mowing slopes. Serial number plate is gone. I need some help identifying exactly what I have purchased. It runs fair but has a few small issues and missing sheet metal . The peaces that go around under the hood and behind the grill. I would sure like to email you some pictures of it
It could be the industrial version which would be I believe a 2400. My contact info is at www.chowntractorparts.com
Great video has helped me with my old IH444. My manual mentions removing and cleaning/replacing an orifice filter behind a bolt when servicing hydraulics. Have not serviced it yet, do you change this filter ?
I don't usually mess with that filter, it is brass and has holes around it. They often stick and break so I leave them alone. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Cheer Dave thanjs for that, I'll leave it alone and just clean the other filter. Greetings from Scotland
Hello, Have question..I have a 1964 IH 424 diesel tractor..I cannot get the hydraulic filter to break free. Wanting to take out and clean filter. I have put channel lock, and wise grips and that didn't do it. then i put a heavy hose on hydraulic line and hooked a chain and 4-wheeler to try to jerk.. that didn't work either..any suggestion on how to get off...Thanks
I suspect that some wise soul has stuck in there with some sort of sealant and basically glued it in. About the only thing you can do is to keep wiggling on it til it breaks free. Thanks for watching!
Can the engine of this tractor be replaced with a modern engine, for example, with a focus 70
The engine is part of the frame, I don't see how you would switch to a different engine.
Hi Dave, Great video. Very useful. I have a 444 that was my grandfather's tractor. I never really new how to check and drain transmission oil. And how to check hydraulic oil level. Thanks, David from Vermont.
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Ive got a1962 - B275 w Mechanical Depth Control (NOT Vary Touch) and experiencing two issues changing Hydraulic Fluid
1) no drain plug in this model - does all the fluid drain from the suction filter once removed? if not how do i drain the fluid out?
2) i have remove the collar and slid it up, however the filter seems to be seized in. will not turn up or or pull out. is it maybe rusted in? any tips?
On the models with mechanical depth control the fluid drains from the filter hole, you can help it along by having the tractor tipped down hill a little bit.
The filter is held in place by the friction of the o-ring that seals it. If they've been in place for a long time they do stick a bit. Use a large pair of pliers, I use channel locks, to wiggle it free. You do have to remove the lever bracket on the models with mechanical depth control. Thanks for watching!
Fab, just looking for how to do this on my 384, great video, thanks bud!
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Great explanation video thanks have you any specifications on oil selection is there a one for all oil for the 3 ? Thanks again
For the engine use a good quality diesel engine oil (we use Rotella 15-40), the transmission should have an 80w90 gear oil, and the hydraulic system is recommended to use CaseIH HyTran oil. Thanks for watching!
Hello - thank you for sharing your know-how. My request would be for a how to change the fan belts on a b414. My unit has (or had) two belts, the one closer to the engine bloc broke. My shop manual does make things clear for me. Thank you!
Hi Jon, I will add that to the "to-do" list.😀 Thanks for watching!
So the 3 drainplugs from transmission drain the same compartment? And same compartment is refilled only by the fillerhole next to the gear lever?
Thanks for the video
That is correct, thanks for watching!
Beauty- thanks, changing on my 3434 soon. Have you done any DB 885 , 3cylinder, liner changes?
Cheers from Denmark .
I good review. I haven't seen a canister oil filter like that in years. I had forgotten about the spring holding the filter in place.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
I like simple video like this one. You explain great.
I am glad you found the video helpful, Thanks for watching!
I have a international 444 tractor
Between clutch and transmission the seal is leaking. How do you change it?
That's a fairly involved job, you'll want a manual to walk you through that. Thanks for watching!
I have a international harvester 384 need to rebuild the steering box. Have you ever rebuilt one and what do I need to do that?
I haven't on a 384 specifically, you will need the bearings for the worm shaft and probably some shims for where the tube bolts to the top of the gear box. Thanks for watching!
Help please. 1962 international b275. Pulled the front drain plug. No oil. Middle amd rear plugs, 3 buckets of oil. Why no oil out the front plug????
Did you stick a screw driver or something in the hole to see if there is anything blocking it? There are at least a couple of pretty decent size passage ways for the oil to migrate to the front case, it would take a lot to block them.
Thanks for watching!
great video but i couldnt see what you did under the pedals on the adjuster i just picked up a 1958 international 420 utility when i shut it off and apply the parking breaks they won't hold on a hill id appreciate any help thanks al
I have 67 HI 424 I drained all three plugs , I poured 6 gal of 90 weight in where you filled your tractor . no oil seamed to get in trans . so I removed plug on right side at floorboard then I filled trans at level plug on left side , and now when I use tractor gear oil comes out around the starter . Do you have any idea's?
It would seem that you got oil into the clutch housing, without seeing the tractor I could say how that happened. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks for reply.
i just want to make sure, would IH 424 model be the same as well or no? thanks
also , where can you buy the oil filters for a ih 424 tractor and what type of engine oil should you use?
@@brandonbonter7341 A 424 would be similar but I can't say if it would be the same or not. You can get filters at a CaseIH dealer, TSC, or auto parts store. I would use a good quality diesel engine oil in 10w30 for a gas or 15w40 for a diesel. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dave, can i use propane heat torch to see if that will help loosen the sealant. Also I need two IH ST443 Bearing for axles, one for each side. 68mm Id x 120mm od x 23mm width. i can find bearing with 65mm Id, but they want fit and slide over axle..Thanks
You could try heat, you will want to replace the oring that holds it after though.
@@CanadianRedneck15 I heated it, then sprayed water on it to cool and the 2nd time it broke loose..Filter was super nasty, glad i was able to get off..Any advise on the ST443 bearing..Thanks
@@anitaanntubre5589 I'm not sure where to get them.
excellent video, thanks. Do you have a video replacing the fuel filter?
Sorry I don't, didn't think of it. Thanks for watching!
Is bleeding the hydraulic fluid needed when changing fluid or will it purge itself?
No need to bleed, just refill, let it circulate for a few minutes, recheck your level and top up if necessary. Thanks for watching!
I have an IH 2350 which I think is an Industrial version of a 235 or similar the hydraulics look the same as the one in your video, the loader hydraulics suddenly stopped working, I have drained the fluid and refilled, and I can’t figure out why I have no hydraulics, any idea where I should check next? I may have overfilled the fluid, as there is a hydraulic fitting in my fill port, I had to take the top plate off to fill the oil. Also can you confirm the correct grade of hydraulic oil. Thanks
2350 is the model number of the loader, the tractor model will be on the hood of the tractor.
@@CanadianRedneck15 it says 2350 on the hood, there are no numbers on the loader? Can the spool valves suddenly go bad, that was the next thing I was going to check
@@graemerolfe1573 Not familiar with a 2350. Check for a hydraulic filter, not likely that the valve would go all at once.
@@CanadianRedneck15 the hydraulic filter is the same as you showed in your video for the 444, I took it out and cleaned it although it appeared clean, I could not see any other filters. I took the pump off and checked for damage and I could not find any issues. Which makes me think either the valves under the seat, or the spool valves, is there a pressure relief valve, could that have stuck open?
@@graemerolfe1573 There is a relief vale in the lift unit and also should be one in eth loader valve.
Hi my canada 434 doesnt have hydrolic ports at the back. Can i hook the implements hoses up to the ports for the loader? I would have to make adaptor as it would be male to male thx
Yes, we did that for certain implements. You can put the bucket tilt on quick couplers and use that part of the loader valve to control your implement.
Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 ok great thx. My tilt has quick couplers, the boom up and down is hard tied in, tho only 1 hose so gravity is all that lets it down. Is that normal theres no ports out the back also theres no foot throttle? I was surprised theres not. Tia
@@rebelcowboy5.7l98 That is a 1501 loader, no down pressure. There were no hydraulic remotes on this series of tractor and no foot throttle til the 444.
@@CanadianRedneck15 good to no!
Any chance we can see a rebuild on a ih 414 steering booster cylinder?
Sorry, I don't touch those, they're over my head. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, I have a IH444, the hydraulic drain plug is not male like yours i.e cannot use a spanner, it has a 4 sided square indent and I need a bar to undo it, it is also damaged so hard to get out or tighten.
Mine has a magnet glued to the back and is about 7/8" dia and 3/4" long and has about 7 threads. Can you tell me the size/threads/type of your drain plug ? I can't find it in any of the manuals. Thanks in advance, greetings from Scotland.
I'm not sue but I think it takes a standard pipe plug. Thanks for watching!
hey I have a 1969 B-276 gas I cant seem to find the drain plug for the hydraulics it isnt in the same spot as the video,and the fill plug is in a different spot as well.I am having trouble finding info on this tractor I am told it is a B-275 with the same sheet metal as B-434,I know they look the same.
thanks Matt
The drain plug should be at the back of the lift housing and the fill plug behind the seat.
Thanks for watching!
Fill plug is in the center behind the seat,it doesnt have a drain plug on the back of the lift housing,how would I drain the hydraulic fluid?
@@mattjenkins1336 you will have to drain from the suction line coming out of the bottom right on the front of the lift unit. Be a good idea to pull the filter out and clean it at the same time.
Alright thanks alot!when I change the hydraulic fluid I will clean the filter.
hey I changed a hydraulic hose today on the tractor that was leaking.After I changed it I tried all the hydraulics they worked fine.Then I let the tractor warm up went out to use it and none of hydraulics worked.What do you think would cause that?
On my trater win I trun my lights on in its running it's ok but win I trun the lights off in the trater in get reddy to use it again the lights stop working all of the lights work but not the headlights in it keeps blowing a fuse were do you think that I should look at 1st to see what happening with it.
Check the wiring for shorts. Thanks for watching!
What fluids do you use for each deal oil trans and hydraulics
Transmission is 80W90 gear oil, hydraulic is CaseIH HyTran oil. Thanks for watching!
I just inherited a B-414, Love you videos, I have learned a lot from the about 414, But I have a question, the starter is bad I removed it and counted the teeth, it has 11 all I see for sale on internet for these tractors have just 10 teeth. are these suppose to work?
Yes the 10 tooth starter is a direct replacement, it will bolt on and go. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for info on starter, Your videos are great. But now I have another question. this tractor has a speedometer/techometer but doesn't have a cable hooked to it and can't find a place to hook on to. the alternator is gone, I saw somewhere that cable hooked to back of it?? What I did find was on eBay was a tech drive unit that bolts to side of block where the distributor would be on a gas engine but it has a plug similar to a freeze plug presses in it. My question is if I pop that plug out can I mount the tech drive unit there, is there something under plug to turn the tech drive unit???? @@CanadianRedneck15
@@dannyvaughn8149 The tach drive would run off of the oil pump under that frost plug. I've never seen one with a frost plug there, some PO must have removed the gear box and stuck a plug in the hole.
Thank you, you are awesome.. I will remove that plug and buy a tech drive and cable.. I had searched for a place to hook up that cable and saw a full restoration of a 414 and saw that tech drive mounted and that was how I found out where it went. Again Thank You for sharing your expertise on these tractors..@@CanadianRedneck15
Happy new year lad! Is there a video of you changing the water pump on your international b414? (I had previously cleaned the radiator and the piping system, but when im using the rotavator the engine overheats). Thank you for your help!
Happy new year to you as well! I don't have a video on changing the water pump, sorry. Check your fan belt, it can slip under load if it's not tight and causing heating when the tractor is working hard. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Hello! Do you know how to tighten the belt which connects the water pump with the crankshaft? (International b414)
@@siriossirios2178 The pulley on the water pump is a 2 piece pulley, the front half is threaded onto the rest of the pulley and held in place by a set screw. Back off the set screw and tighten the front half against the belt, when it's tight enough line up the set screw with one of the 4 grooves through the threads and tighten the set screw and jam nut.
What sort of oil goes in the hyd on that 444. Thanks for the video
CaseIH Hytran oil is the recommended oil. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a 2444 International and I have been told to use hydraulic oil for the gear oil. Should I be using 80/90 w instead? Thank you. Steve
Yes, use 80w90 in the transmission/differential. Thanks for watching!
Thsnk you.
Ralph,
I realy thank you verry much for ansering my question. i am now looking for a good old mecanic to do the job.
I'm changing the subject, 454 main body ,transmission, rear end, you would know, is 574 the same or is it larger than 454 .
The engine will bolt right in, there are a few parts that are heavier like the final drives. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave. I Did the hydraulic fluid change exactly as yours. My 444 has a loader that was working ok before I did the change. Now it won't lift at all!! Eventually managed to get to lift, but needed very high revs and took ages to lift fully. I was hoping that when I released down (gravity not controlled cylinders) it would work, but it does not work at all now. I was wondering when I wiggled the filter pipe the same pipe was roating that goes into the pump via two jubilee clips. I cannot get to these clips due to the loader,. Wondering if air is getting in at that point ? any help much appreciated, thanks. P.S didn't touch the orifice filter.
Sounds like it is getting air from somewhere for sure, did you recheck the oil level? Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Hi Yes I rechecked the level after all this trying, it had gone down by 1cm and it was frothy on the screwdriver, before, it was clear. Update, next day reversed up hill and added more oil so full to brim, and left oil plug off. Draft control lever fully forward as normal, tried position lever with isolation tap closed, no loader movement. Tried again with iso tap open, no movement of 3pt. Also looking through filler hole saw no oil movement throughout this. Moved draft control full back and saw oil movement and loader moved up very slowly, also 3pt moved. Lowering loader made oil overflow out of refill hole. Turned tractor off, drained some oil out so back to 7cm on screwdriver, put draft to fully forward, also tightened jubilee clip on pump input. Start tractor, this time the 3pt and loader work with position lever as originally before oil change. 3pt slow but always has been but loader very very slow and does not speed up with higher revs.
Also oil is clear again. Phew sorry for ramblings.
So things a lot better than before, but have you any idea why the loader is so slow ?
@@AidyGriff It doesn't make sense that changing the oil would make the loader slow down.
Hi Dave, what brand of engine oil are you using? This that shell rotella t4?
Yes, Rotella 15w40. Thanks for watching!
I have a 365 does it take gear oil and hydraulic oil or is it just hydraulic oil in the whole system. And what weight of oil?
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with a 365. Thanks for watching!
im not a mechanic and I love your videos I have a old 2400b International gasser just wondering the 1st two plugs you pulled are both gear box oil and what wt oil do you recommend thanks for the info and videos
You should double check because I believe with some of the industrials the transmission/differential was also the hydraulic reservoir. If the hydraulic oil is separate then I'd use 80/w90 in the trans/dif. Thanks for watching!
any advice on what to replace that gasket on the bottom of that oil filter housing with? the one on top of those washers over that bolt head. mine leaked something bad, i permatexed a new one, still leaks.
I would use a rubber or cork washer. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I had reviewed your video last summer WRT changing rear axle and it help me greatly in replacing my axle on my B414, thank you. My tractor is fixed. Since you are the expert with these types of tractor, if you don't mind, I would ask your advice on this other problem I am having with my B414 Inter for about two winters now. During the cold months, the transmission is hard to engage. From neutral, gears are grinding even though I press on the clutch and I have to wait sometimes more than 20 sec before the gear stop turning. Once engaged, I would push on the clutch and the transmission stick for another 5-6 seconds( it is a long time when you use a snowblower!) specially when in 1st or reverse (the two gear I use to snowblow). I think the clutch is good and I read somewhere that it could be a oil viscosity problem.(too thick). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a B414, diesel 4 cyl, 1962, 4 low and 4 high. Thank you.
We had the same problem with our 384 (Newer model of the same tractor), that is a worn pressure plate not disengaging the clutch. You may be able to adjust the levers to get a little more life out of it but the best bet is to replace the clutch and pressure plate. Thanks for watching!
My IH 444 rear lift arms got stuck in up position. How do I fix?
Could be a sticking valve or damaged linkage, only way to know is go digging. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video! So helpful. I know nothing about anything mechanical. Just bought a very old very poorly maintained IH 434 Diesel. I can’t figure out what year exactly (SN B27396).
It’s dumping oil or hydraulic fluid. Seems to need a new solenoid. Doesnt start unless I bang on it.
Have been trying to find someone to help me maintain but doesn’t seem to be any tractor mechanics around.
Any suggestions for BC?
I think with this video I can at least see now how to keep topping up the hydraulic fluid until I can replace the lines.
Please keep making easy to u sweat and videos with what tools needed etc. so so so so so helpful!
Hydraulic oil what do you use?
I use CaseIH Hytran oil. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. My dad had a 434 gas and I just bought a property that came with a B414.
How about doing a video on servicing the steering box on a B414. My tractor’s manual steering is very, very stiff. Kooky setup with the steering column going down through the fuel tank!🇨🇦👍🏻
Jack the front end up and steer it that way, you may need thrust bearings for the front spindles or they may just need greased. I do have a video on rebuilding the steering box here th-cam.com/video/YjUDRWeNCfE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!