I really need to thank you for doing these videos on the 414. I have one and there's not really any info on the Internet about them. These have been very informative and helpful.
Also is there a way to turn off the draft control? When I pick up my post hole auger it sometimes wants to bounce pretty bad until I take the weight off.
just want to tell you awesome job I love your videos I recently inherited my grandfather's ih444 after he passed away I've been slowly trying to work the bugs out of it it is 49 years old with only a thousand and 97 hours it is very clean but it has a lot of issues so far today I've completely rewired it from one end to the other I've been having fuel issues I'm having the carburetor rebuilt at a shop now next is trying to sort out my leaking or bypassing hydraulics just wanted to tell you great job your videos have been an awesome help to me I want thank you and please keep them coming.
Have a 444 international,you've been a great insight to all my mechanical questions,very methodical and explain all the dose and dont's,in a very self explanatory way. You've been such a great help with your videos THANKS so much for your time and knowledge 😉
Joey Cooling seen that you have a IH 444 I thought you could help me with something, I have a loader on mine and when it’s running I pull the lever on the loader and it barely goes up, I pull up on the right lever under the seat and I pull on the hydraulic lever for the loader it goes up normal. It does the same with the 3 point but instead I push down and it works, any ideas?
My IH 276 diesel tractor is a late 1971 model with a two levers draft control unit. So i beleive that it is the same as the B414. I do thank you for what you do in yours videos and hope you will continue for a long time.
Hi Dave, I have an international 354. I really love your helpful channel, and from watching your videos I've been able to carry our some repairs on my tractor. I replaced the brake discs based on one of your previous videos and the brakes work great now. So many thanks for your helpful videos. The hydraulics were always a weak area on my tractor. When the oil would warm up it wouldn't lift much of a load without revving the engine, then with the lift up if the rpm was reduced to tickover the load on the lift arms would drop all the way to the bottom again. And the lift would hiccup quite rapidly. I ended up doing a major overhaul on the complete hydraulic system 6 months ago. I wish I could've seen this video when trying to get the valve control unit out of the main assembly...but I got there in the end. So the work I did was to replace all o-rings everywhere in the control unit. I fitted a new lift piston, new lowering spool, new hydraulic pump and various other parts that came in a repair kit. I managed to remove my orifice filter and I replaced the oring on the end of it. Then a few weeks later when I was trying to remove it again the end came off from the main screen - probably because the new oring was gripping tighter. But I put it back in carefully and it seems to be ok. Should I expect any problems with this? New orifice filters are approximately $50. After all of my hydraulic refurbishment I managed to make a lot of improvements. Lifting power has improved dramatically - now on tickover the tractor has enough lifting power to lift it's nose off the ground. The hiccuping had been completely eradicated and the lift arms would hold the load without dropping. However in the past week I have noticed the dreaded hiccup has returned! It is not as rapid as before - now it will hiccup after approximately 30 seconds. It stops when I close the isolator valve, so I know that my cylinder seals are good. I did notice that the tractor was quite low on oil so I'm going to top it up and see if that makes any difference. Do you have any ideas what could be causing the hiccups again? Bear in mind that I have fitted a new lowering spool valve among other things :(
It sounds like you have replaced or repaired all of the things that could be causing the problem, possibly leaking by the lift valve? Thanks for watching!
The relief valve is in the valve assembly beyond the isolator valve. We sold 2 hydraulic pumps to one guy the same day because he split the pump wide open dead heading it with the isolator valve.
The relief valve is only in the lift circuit and is mainly for an overload situation on the 3PH. I expect the reason it's isolated from the auxiliary circuit is to eliminate the possibility of stacking relief valves. If 2 relief valves are on the same circuit you add the 2 pressures together before a relief valve will open causing a dangerous pressure situation.
In attempting to remove the hydraulic orifice filter, the filter will spin in either direction but will not release from the housing. Is there an o-ring or retainer holding it in place or do I need to pull harder. Following your advice, I don't want to over do it and break it. Thanks for your videos.
Good morning Dave Hay I just found your videos good stuff I Just picked up a IH B 250 diesel Looking for a spec book and videos Sat in the woods in Vermont for 3 years checked fluids all good put a battery in it and a little starter fluid and it fired up so anything on that model would be great Thank you so much from the great state of Vermont
Been waiting on this video. Thanks a lot. Maybe I can get the nerve to pop it open and repair my IH 374. I got the repair kit and it has 50 or so O rings in it. Trying to match them up will be a challenge for me. Again thanks for this video
Olá amigo, muito interessante o seu trabalho com tratores antigos, gosto muito disso, vejo uma retroescavadeira ao fundo, vou procurar no canal para ver se tem algum video sobre ela. Bom trabalho por aí. Fique com Deus. Abraço!
The old backhoe is a MF50A, I don't have any videos on it, I just have it around for personal use. I am glad you are enjoying my work, thanks for watching!
Awesome video again Dave just one little thing my lift arms quit working the other day so torn apart and the only thing that I found in there they seem to be wrong is there's a chain with some rubber hose on it going up towards the filter I believe we're does that hook one end is to linkage the other one is just floating round in there of wondering if that hooked to the bottom plate where that other spring is I can't seem to find it in any parts manual my shop manual
Cool video. I am wondering if I can put that style of lift system on my 340 IH tractor. I'd prefer to have draft control and the third arm available when needed. Very informative video BTW.
Very helpful vid as always! Got an odd one with a B414, we've recently serviced and changed all the fluids including the hydraulic oil, gave the filter a good clean before putting it back. However now the hydraulic arms will go down no problem, but they will not come back up and the pump makes a pretty different set of noises (not altogether good sounding), but the arms do not come back regardless. Broken pump or is it something simple?
Make sure the "open/close"valve is open on the valve body. Make sure you have 3 inches of hydraulic oil in the reservoir. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi, thank you for the great videos u got here, they have helped me out before. I got a IH444 and the three part is jerking. I think it’s a leak in the piston so I got some new o-rings, backup and gaskets for this job. It’s not that easy to find these older parts here in Sweden.. The question: How much do I need to remove to get to the piston and change o-ring? Do I need to disassembly everything like u do in the video, or can I just get the valve body off in a easy way and get to the piston that way? Ty once again.
You will have to lift the unit off the tractor and open at least the top plate, maybe the bottom too, to unhook some links inside to pull the valve body and cylinder out the front. Thanks for watching!
This is a great video. I have leaks on those valves in the front. Can I get the o rings at a hardware store? Also, the Draft control has a small steel rod that moves in and out at the back of the transmission unit where the spring is located. Should that have a gasket or o ring? It is leaking there, also. Thanks, Chris
I believe the draft control rod out the back has a seal around it on the outside of the case. The o-rings you should be able to get a t a hardware shop or machine shop. Thanks for watching!
H i Dave your videos on the B414 taught me a lot on how to do it myself you explain things really good Dave can I take an Hydraulic lift assembly from a newer B414 # 306 is first 3 and put it on a B414 #304 older style
Great video. I have a b414 when I lift the lifting arms they are jumping. They move fine without weight on them. I changed the hydraulic filter and put in fresh oil it’s still the same. When I pull he draft control up full it lifts not a problem with weight on it but it puts pressure on the engine. I removed the plate under the seat and the position control lever works fine. Your opinion would be much appreciated on what the problem could be. Thank you
Thanks again for the information you have in your videos I enjoy watching . I have a problem that I can't find discussed hoping you will help my lift arms will slowly fall down (under load) to a point then suddenly jerk back up to set position over and over as long a tractor is running but will hold in position if tractor is not running . problem is with my ford super dextra.
You show the disassembly of the hydraulics on the 434 in this video, but have you ever done a video on the overhaul of the valve gear? Great videos by the way!
You have helped me enormously with my 444 & 574. Question: my 444, rear lift arm, won't lift? I've done the basic maintenance with fluids and filters. What do you suggest?
Thanks for the information. If the shifter housing has to come off to align the gears are there any issues that I should be aware of or does the housing and shifter just lift up and drop back in? I know I have to move the hydraulic housing back enough to clear the shifter housing. Thanks again
The shifter cover is a pain to re-install, the forks lift with the cover so you have to line the forks all up with the gears as you set it back in place. If you are having trouble with being stuck in gear, pull the lever out of the cover and line up the rails in the center (neutral) position and then put the lever back in. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, My B414 hydraulics are jerky when lifting. Draft control lever is forward and isolator valve is as open as it can be unscrewed. It wasn't jerky until I replaced the oil with modern hydraulic oil. When I realised that was wrong, I flushed twice with SAE30, checked the suction pipe strainer was clean and it's still jerky. The isolator valve will only turn one full revolution and I noticed that yours will turn a couple of times. What do you think is causing the jerky lifting? (it hasn't lost lifting power, just jerky lift and smooth when lowering).
The 414 series tractors were meant to use a modern hydraulic/transmission oil. Try taking the isolater valve out and cleaning it and the passage, check in the hole with a light to make sure there is nothing in there. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, great video! Any chance you could do a video on the valves and how they work. My 414 will lift the arms slowly without a load and when looking under the top plate can see it shooting oil back to reservoir rather than into cylinder to lift properly. Thanks so much
G'day Dave, I've just inherited an A414 (Aussie made version) which is leaking hydraulic oil like a sieve from nearly everywhere it can. Do you know if there are gasket kits available, or should I make my own paper gaskets or use a silicone gasket goop?
You could try a CaseIH dealer for the gaskets, if no luck there then I would recommend the gasket paper and make your own. I don't like silicone around oil, it breaks down and gets where you don't want it. Thanks for watching!
I tell you Dave you are Johnny on the spot. How ever I did figure this one out on my own. But I'm having trouble with the o ring size 1 15/16 or 47mm. 3/16 to 4.5mm thickness? I put an 1/8 thick 17/8 in it and it leak as bad as the o ring that was in it to start.
Hey Dave, I have a 1967 2444 and when I am using my three point hitch I have about a half an inch drop and then the hitch jumps back up to its correct position. I have the IH -34 manual and wanted to know if you could give me some advice on this. I replaced the suction screen and the fluid 2017 thinking that might help. I still have the same problem. Also I was wondering what the auxiliary control valve is for because I would love to get a flail or sickle mower to do my extremely deep steep drainage ditches. I am completely lost when it comes to hydraulics so I appreciate any advice you can give me. If you have a place to get parts cheaper please let me know. I won’t be able to rebuild the entire unit until winter because my John Deere 330 garden tractor model 50 deck finally rusted through enough the pulley that the mule runs broke out. So the IH with my rotary cutter is my lawn mower. Thanks so much. You’re perfect for doing these videos. You are thorough without over talking about things that are not important .
I am glad you enjoy the format, I try not to fill up too much time droning on about nothing. The dropping and correcting is fluid leaking by, either the piston or one of the valves. You probably want to check the valves first for dirt or damage, then check the cylinder and piston/packing for scores or tears where fluid could leak by. Thanks for watching!
I'm in the process of rebuilding my b414, and luckily(!) I came across you channel. These videos are very explainatory, and very helpful for my own project. Currently I'm working on the rear differential/diff lock, but parts for this is difficult to come by. Any advice on where to look for these parts?
Dave, can just the valve body cover be removed once the hydraulic line is disconnected to access the spool assembly's. Or do have to tear the whole case apart? I think I have some o-ring issues making the 3pt act up.
I am not familiar with the 2350, but there should be a model and serial number stamped into the block so you can at least identify the engine. It will likely be the same engine as a farm tractor. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have B414 sn 3400 and thus far the hydraulics have not required me to disassemble them. However I recently got an IH 424 where the sector control had been left full open for years while the tractor was used for a post pounder. Now the sector arm will not control the lift arms. Only by using the other hydraulics can I shift the control arms. I would like to now what damage comes from leaving the sector arm past its stopping point. Can you help?
Thanks for these great how to videos for the B414. I just came into possession of one with a snowblower and a trip bucket, I wish it had power steering lol. Is there a way to convert the trip bucket to one with down pressure? How would I plumb into the hydrulics to add bucket controls?
If your loader runs from the 3PH controls currently you will have to tap into the pressure line between the pump and the lift unit. You need to use a "power beyond" valve so you don't get a "stacking"effect from having more than one relief valve in a single circuit. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever looked at the import tractor parts power steering conversion kits? I've never heard of anyone in the IH B series community installing one. $1250
Awesome videos I have IH 2444 and the valve body is leaking alot but I can't seem to get the hydraulic unit to come off it there any hidden bolts and is there a good place to get a seal kit for it
Check along the front side, there may abolt hiding under the edge of the valve body there. The lift units sit down on a couple of dowels and they take quite a bit of force to break loose. Thanks for watching!
That was really a great video bro🙏🙏🙏,, please make a video on oil flow circuit and spool valve working and assembly, and explain possible troubles that might occur.,, Love from India bro❤❤❤❤
Thanks for your videos, Dave. I recently did the head gasket on my 414 and wouldn’t have attempted it without this channel. My hydraulic unit has a leak at the blind end of the front pipe, an o-ring issue I assume.
Outstanding man, I'm glad I could be of help! I'm not quite following which pipe you mean but you can do it, just start carefully digging and you will find the issue. Thanks for watching!
Sorry, where the high pressure line goes into the control valve unit, at the other end of this raised casing is a seal, of some kind, which has a small leak on mine. Your tear-down will no doubt help.
Hi Dave thanks for your videos. Problem with my 1969 IH 434 diesel with P-steering and loader. Slow lifting, won”t tolerate heavy load. Oil il getting milky after a few hours only. Oil filter is clean. Any way to find the problem? Keep on we love your videos. Very well done! B.
Milky oil is usually an indication of water but if you have changed it that should rule water out. I could also be getting air in the oil that would cause a milky color but also make the oily foamy which would be an indication of a bad oil pump or a weak relief valve. Thanks for watching!
ok found the part I have been asking about but looks like a big job to remove control valve body unit to reseal and replace gasket if that is the oil leak problem I have not simple unless its good weather or heated garage wondering it can be pulled back far enough to resilicone
Yeah its a pretty big job to pull the valve body out of the lift unit and you don't want to lift the shift cover, pull the lift unit. Check for leaks around the filter , could be leaking by the o-ring there. Thanks for watching!
I was repairing leaks on my b414 hydraulic unit. The plug on the left side refused to come out... pulled the circlip and it didn't come out. Ended up having to drill and tap the plug to pull it out. Spring came out, but nothing behind it that I could see/remove. Diagram shows something in there... what is it? Oh, any tips on preventing the diesel shutoff knob from vibrating out on a 414? I don't seem to have a spring in there to keep it pushed in... so it vibrates out and starves for fuel.
On the hydraulic unit I expect that would be some sort of valve plunger. You could add a spring to the shutoff to keep it in the run position. There is supposed to be a spring steel band close to the knob that grabs the bracket so it can.t move, may be worn, you could try to bend it so it's tight also. Thanks for watching!
I just subscribed Have been watching for 3 years . have made a complete motor job on a bd154 434 International took hydrolic apart how do I set the lever
Hey great video. I have a 444. Have a oil leak between the front valbody plates.is it Possible to split without taking everything off the transmission? Thanks for your help.
It is pretty tight there but the front plate only has to come forward a short way, you may be able to get the front plate off without lifting the unit. Thanks for watching!
Questions on that port for aux. hydraulics, I'm guessing you would have to disconnect the woodsplitter or whatever was hooked up before you could use the hitch again?
That is correct, with the valve open and a wood splitter connected the oil would just circulate through the splitter valve and not make any pressure in the lift. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the web site looks like I should be able to find my parts The lift is building pressure in the lift housing I changed the hydraulic fluid today that didn’t help the Fill plug on the back if you leave off blows hydraulic fluid out Took a drill bit and drilled A vent hole in the plug Trying to relieve the pressure without losing all my fluid thinking that would slow it down but it would still blow all the fluid out the pin hole so now got to find out what is causing it to build the pressure any ideas thank you for the videos and your time for trying to help me figure this out
I know it sounds like but It will push it all out to were the front end loader will not even left Up i drained the entire system And put hy trans back in it today to make sure and still building to much Pressure I took everything off the lift on the back and its still trying to raise up higher than it should with nothing on it and sounds like it’s trying to squall the pump
Thank you for sharing this. I'm sure this is dumb, but my valve body/assembly (now that I have a name) leaks horribly. It looks a bit different than yours, but similar. Seems to be leaking out the valves. Can I replace those handle valves without tearing this all the way down as you do here? I thought the valves felt under pressure when I started to unbolt, so I was unsure. Further, not even sure where I find new ones (though I'm guessing and hoping it is mostly the o-rings but they do not turn the way yours did.).
As long as it's not running the only pressure should be spring pressure but I don't think there are springs behind them in any configuration I am aware of. It should just be o-rings so pop them out and take them to a machine shop or the like in your area to get proper size ones and that will likely look after your leaks. Thanks for watching!
Cant find the drain plug on my 624. The op manual just says remove it but not were it is. Also something about a strainer. Luckely the oil looks fine on the oil level plug and the oil seeping from the hydraulic joystick.
Good morning! On my tractor 434 the two arms of the hydraulic scan only go down to half the course even with a weight of 120kg. The two levers are pulled forward. Can anyone give me an idea where the malfunction might be? Thank you
Hey Dave the video is awesome . I have an IH 444 and it’s lifters are not working J have tried all the knowledge I had possible but still no change . Can you suggest few solutions
Hi Dave, I do enjoy your videos. I have a B414 my control arms will go up when I start the tractor but will not go down.Once I cut the engine off the control arms will very slowly fall (in a day). I changed the fluid cleaned the filter which was very dirty but still will not work. the suction and return line do get warm . I would sure appreciate your input as to what I could do to fix it.
Melvin & Dave, I am having the exact same problem, if either of you have advice on how to access and fix the unloading valve that would be a great help to me.
Hi Great videos I've an international 354 and have some issues with the hydraulics. It lifts easily initially when cold but then it gradually has to be revved more and more to achieve the lift until it eventually becomes very difficult to lift at all. The oil gets hot and lift can be lost. It then begins to drop as one drives along. It also has a jerking motion on a regular basis. I've a relatively new pump installed and have changed the oil and oil filter. There doesn't seem to be air in the system when I dip the oil. It seems clear in appearance. I've changed the o ring in the isolater valve. From the info I can pick up here and there it appears maybe I've got an issue with the piston seal, the relief valve. It seems there are a plethora of o rings behind the control valve casing which you took apart in your video of the 414. There seems to be a lot of bits and pieces, springs etc attached to the back of the control unit Do you have any video as regards the detail of how these are repaired/replaced. For instance can a complete new relief valve be installed without pulling all the little bits and pieces. Where exactly is it etc Be great to hear back
From what you describe I would agree, either piston seal or the relief valve. Unfortunately this video pretty much contains the extent of my knowledge on these units. Thanks for watching!
Many thanks for the prompt reply especially from a guy all the way from Ireland! Wondering could you point me in any direction where I might get more info?
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks again Had forgotten there's a former international dealership now Case nearby. They do repairs as well. Will have a chat with them Keep up the good work!
I've got a 354 that leakslike a siv where the hydraulic unit bols to frame. Is there a specific gasket to replace or will sylicon/liquid gasket work? Thanks
The lift unit is a sealed unit and there is only a few inches of oil in the differential case, so it shouldn't be leaking from between the lift unit and the dif case, it's more likely that there is a leak in the lift unit and when it runs down over it looks like it leaking from between the two. First check would be the suction filter o-ring at the front of the unit. Thanks for watching!
Speaking of the isolator valve, I have a B250 so the earlier version of this with a T handle isolator valve, anyway its broken at the retaining pin which seperated the T from the threaded valve, anyway cant find a replacement anywhere and whenever they plugged up the front loader they have it run from the remotes point ie 1 hose only to the loader so hydraulic lift gravity lower. I had tried to adjust the T valve when I had to weld it to get back in place so it would still thread but during opertion it seems that the rear hitch lifts always first, then when that has reached height the front loader goes up, Worked for a little while but then due to pressure it blew the T valve apart and oil everywhere. Have you got any suggestions ? What I can do here, its bloody annoying.
You are going to need to find another isolater valve. When the isolater valve closes properly the 3 PH should not lift when working the loader. Thanks for watching!
I have a 3444 loader and the three point goes up all the way in less i cut tractor off then it leaks down to were I have the Lever height set to I have a barrel that is full of Concrete with it on the back then it goes down and up like it should Justed the draft control lever all the way down doesn’t help any of advance would be great
I was working on the 3444 today and noticed that the spring behind the top link was broke could that be causing the problems You was talking about a dump valve Can you tell me about where that is located I’m going to change the hydraulic fluid in it maybe tomorrow and put what it calls for cause I’m pretty sure the guy that put the pressure plate in clutch put the wrong fluid in it but not for sure so I’m going to change it again anyways All the tractor places around here Has no information really only 3444 so i’m hoping you may be able to get me going thanks for your time and the videos
The broken spring shouldn't cause the problem you describe. Check out the CaseIH parts site partstore.caseih.com/us/index.html?csid=a8ad2ae818327ae353f3dc3cf5e6f427&sl=EN¤cy= you will be able to find a parts break down of the lift unit under 444 or 384 tractors. Thanks for watching!
On my control unit the fast/ slow valve broke and I believe this is why the loader stopped working? I have sourced a replacement fast /slow valve but my loader still will not work? I have cracked the two hydraulic lines and there is oil there. The thing I can’t work out though is that I cannot turn the installed valve and I was wondering if there is a specific way to re-install the valve?
As I recall you just thread in the nut(collar?) that holds in the valve and the valve spins in with the nut. Not really important what direction the valve is, it acts by being out as far as the collar will allow or held in by the ridges and pin to cut down the flow. I don't think that should affect your loader but I don't know how yours is plumbed in. Thanks for watching!
So the 3pt won't go down on my 354. I decided to check o rings and condition of the fast slow and the other valve and change the hyd oil. The oil looked decent, no water. As I removed the on/off valve it shot out under a lot of pressure with milky oil and 3pt dropped. Fired up the tractor-no leaks. 3pt hitch went up-stayed up. Any suggestions?
No videos, sorry. At the base of the shift lever knock out the pin that holds the lever in place, (it's behind two little plugs, use a small punch and drive it through one plug to pop it out and knock the other plug out with the pin.) Lift the lever out and you will be able to line all the shift rails up in the center(should only be one out of center). That should get the tractor in neutral for you. Thanks for watching!
I have a International 384 tractor. I rebuilt the hydraulic unit but when I went to use it oil sprayed out. I used o rings from a o ring kit which is smaller than the oem parts. Can you tell me where I can get a o ring kit for the hydraulic unit. Like your video's. Thanks
What would cause the three point assembly to rise on its own when the lever is in the down position? If you put pressure down on the arms it will not rise but if no wait it will rise. Also to remove the center top cover on the trans ware the shifter is do you have to remove the hydraulic lift assembly first? We are having issues ware the transmission wants to pop out of high range. The questions are directed twords a b414. Thank you
There is some sort of a restriction causing the hydraulic oil to flow into the lift cylinder rather than cycle through back to the reservoir. To remove the shift cover you have to take off the lift unit first. Thanks for watching!
i see supply for the remotes where does return go and my pto will not engage i think the splines are fowled some way havent looked is there anything tricky to looklout for while working on the pto
Hej, nice video! i have a b414 diesel, hydraulic is not stabil, falling down and pumping up all the time, cant lift a plow anymore and as soon as i shut the ventil under the seat or i turn off the engine the hydraulic is falling down fast. is this because of the sealings in the kolv/cylinder and the valve? kind regards from sweden
I know this is probably a dumb question but can I plumb around the lift assembly I bought a old tractor with a ton of old hoses I don't want to replace because I will never use anything but the front loader
Dave, i started watching your video's because of your shooting video's but love these tractor repair video's too. I work on trucks n cars for fun. Question, you don't have any smashed fingernails. lol. And how's your Mauser doing ???? :)
That's awesome Mega, I'm glad you enjoy what I do! I do get the odd blackened finger nail, last one was while I was doing some carpentry this fall. LOL The Mauser is very satisfying, I will get a video up of it shortly. Thanks for watching!
I only seen one other comment about the chain that has a rubber sleeve over it .I can't for the life of me figure out where the other end hooks to. It was just laying on the bottom with 2 links broken off of it. It's still attached at front. Any help would be very much appreciated thanks. Great videos!
Hey how would I add rear remotes on a 384, with a separate control so I can maintain use of the 3pt controls. I have a ezee on front end loader. Can it tie into the input and out line of the front end loader valve body. Then add a separate lever to power the remotes on or off?
If you use a "power beyond" valve you can run the oil flow from the pump through the new valve to the lift unit and then be able to use both at the same time. Thanks for watching!
My b414 three point hitch has the hiccups under load. It will drift down then pop back up to desired hight. I would like to fix that. What direction should I head to truble shoot this issue? I was wondering what seals and oring I would need or maybe a kit to get to rebuild this and fix the issue? I have parts manual and shop manuals. Thanks
I have a 444 and if I lift the arms all the way up they get stuck. To get them back down I have pull the draft sensor/plunger out with pliers while working the lever. As long as I don't go too far up they work fine. Any idea on what the problem could be?
Hi Dave - this is completely off topic but have you come across an electronic ignition conversion kit you would recommend for a B414? Mine was converted to 12V positive. Many thanks! (from Malcolm using Sarah's PC)
The 12V positive ground would be the factory system. The 414s could have either Delco or Lucas ignition, I see a kit for the Delco distributors but you would have to switch it out to negative ground. Check with A&I Products for a dealer in your area to get the kit. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic, thank you so much for the detailed answer & quick turn around, Dave. I'm actually very glad to hear the 12v positive is factory (the fewer mods the better in my mind). I'll check out for local A&I dealers. Cheers and thanks again. I'll keep an eye out for your next video updates :)
Great video. I’ve got a 484 that I bought new it’s been and still is a good machine. I’ve got a little over 5k hours on it and the three point lift just started to move slow and tractor has to be reved way up for it to lift at all. Has new fluid & filter !screen is clean , pressure relief valve is good I changed it out with another tractor , diverter valve to steering isn’t stuck . I would appreciate any advice as to what to look for next. RED POWER
If that has just suddenly started then I would say there must be a blockage/restriction on the suction side of the hydraulic pump, if it has been a gradual problem getting worse over time it's most likely a bad hydraulic pump. Thanks for watching!
HI Dave. I own a 1964 B414. The selector on left ha nd side next to the Pto lever does not respond when when turned to slow or fast. Currently the Pto shaft is in fast mode in high gear and slow mode when in low gear. Also pto engage when the clutch is released and stop when the clutch is pushed in. Is this a fault on the tractor or is it the way they operate. Can this be fixed or changed. Can you give me advice. Thanks
The fast slow selector is for your hydraulics. The PTO is entirely dependant on engine speed. If you have the live PTO you push the clutch down one step to stop the transmission and a second step (to the foot board) to stop the PTO. If you don't have the 2 steps (stages) in the clutch pedal you may have a damaged or out of adjustment clutch or you may not have live PTO. Thanks for watching!
Hello Dave from Greece!!! I have the international 434 and I am going to repair the hydraulic system!! I don't know if the cap in the photo 9:09 minute as shown for the 444 model also has the 434 model? If you could help me I would really appreciate it
Excellent video. I live north of StStephen, N.B. I have just this morning started dismantling to repair drivline problem, sounds like a tooth broken somewhere. Do you sell parts? and if so how do we get in contact? Leonard W.
I think I asked you a few years back about an issue on my International 444. When I enable the PTO the lever starts jumping and feels like a stripped gear. Is there a manual I could use to try fixing the issue. I also recently started having with the 3 point not lifting and power steering. I bought some oil so I can check the filter and level as well.
@@CanadianRedneck15 I press the clutch and put the PTO lever. As soon as I start mower and it hits grass the lever starts jumping. The previous owner would keep his foot on the lever but it got worse. If tractor is on low rpms with cutter and I rev it it jumps out and disables. I am not sure how to explain this.
Hello Dave I have an international 434 and I have a problem with the hydraulic lift for the 3 point hitch. It lifts as soon as you start the tractor even with the control lever in the lower position just woundering what I could check or how to fix it or what to do? Thanks
Make sure your draft control lever is most of the way forward, if that isn't it you will have to check for a stuck/blocked valve or linkage out of adjustment. Thanks for watching!
I'm having an issue where my tractor hydraulics on a ih444 to 1970 model leak down while the tractor is running then it'll jerk up sporadically and rather aggressively making the whole tractor shake I find that if I shut the hydraulic valve off it won't lie down which I have to do when going down the road kefir in it from jerking the tractor what I'm carrying and implement what are your thoughts I've been told it's bypassing in the valve body
If the shut off will hold the load up then the cylinder is fine so it is leaking by the valve. It may need an o-ring or some thing of that nature. Thanks for watching!
You do some really cool videos on repair very helpful also like you old shooting videos, sadly nazitube has deleted a vid from a fellow canadian firearm owner.
I saw that too, a slug mold review of all things!! Very confusing and vague terms, leaves an uneasy feeling for sure. I am glad you enjoy my channel, thanks for watching!
Hi Dave. I bought a B414 diesel a couple of months ago and have been working some of the bugs out. Your videos have been very helpful. I am having one problem where the 3pt hitch will raise when I increase the engine rpms even though the controls are in the lowest position. Makes using tractor for mowing pretty useless. Do you have any thoughts on what might cause that? My guess is a problem with the valve body but I'm not ready to tackle that yet.
I would say a restriction (probably some dirt) in the valve body, try cleaning the little brass screen in the front center of the valve body. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 I found the orifice assembly to be completely stopped up like you thought. I cleaned it and while I had the fluid drained I pulled the main filter screen. That is when I found there wasn't any filter in the return line, which is also the reason the orifice screen was stopped up. I have another B414 I use for parts and it had one in it, so after a thorough cleaning I put it in. Bleeding the darn thing was a pain but it is going again. Thank you for your help! By the way you have put out some great videos that are very informative.
Hello from Scotland, On my tractor the lift arms are very slow to drop down with a plough fitted also the arms will not rise unless you lift the draught lever to maximum height and when it does get to the top it jitters up and down or shakes have you any ideas what might be wrong? I fitted a new suction filter and put new oil in. Using the position control lever will not raise the arms unless the draught lever is right at the top is that normal?
No, definitely not normal, sounds like the linkage could be out of adjustment. The draft control lever should be all the way foir ward when not plowing. Also check your fast/slow valve and make sure it is set to fast. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Where can I get parts for my b414? Id like to replace the electrical. Also my clutch is not working and was wondering if I can get to it from the bottom plate under the tractor? Need brakes too. Cheers
You can see the clutch from the bottom plate but will likely have to split the tractor to attempt any clutch repairs. If you are in Canada check www.chowntractorparts.com for parts or elsewhere a local parts store. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks for advice. I'm in ont. I probably won't get to it until spring. My local store can't even get spark plugs for it. Merry Christmas
Thank you for this video, I’ve always wanted a tutorial on how to do this, I have a 444 and the hydraulics have been a bit weak for awhile and the oil was filthy so I drained the hydraulic oil and replaced the filter and put new oil in. After that it seemed better at first but when I went to use the tractor it stopped working, until I turned the tractor around and it was pointed downhill. With the front of the tractor pointing downhill it would lift back up. After trying a few things I finally decided to try adding more fluid which helped a lot, but it’s quite a bit overfilled now. I still sometimes have to rev the engine a bit to get it to lift, but it does at least work now even going uphill although I wouldn’t say its very strong or fast. Is there any harm in running it overfilled for now to use it? And do I have a problem with something in the hydraulic system or is the hydraulic pump getting weak? I used it like this last week and it worked surprisingly well
Being overfilled shouldn't do any harm as long as there is still room for the heat expansion of the oil. A weak oil pump will show up as the oil gets warm, it would lift fairly well when cold but get progressively weaker as it warms up. Check your suction pipe from the filter to the pump for any kind of blockage as well. Thanks for watching!
I just rebuilt a 434 and used this video to get through it. The hitch was pulled and half disassembled 2 years ago. He went in for back surgery and ended up having a massive stroke. By the grace of god he is still here, and we have been working on it together. So on to the problem I'm having. The hydraulic hitch is jumping slightly when arms are stopped in any position. I made sure I put everything back the way I removed them. I then found out that the hitch was doing that when it was removed originally. Do you think the thermal relief valve could be the problem? I read on a forum that another person had same issue and had two parts flipped when assembled. The books I have don't give a good description of which way those parts go in. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
That jump is usually caused by either the lift cylinder leaking or a valve leaking so the arms actually drop a little and then jump back to the set height. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks for the reply. I'm pretty confident that the lift cylinder is not leaking because I can lift the arms with weight on them and shut the isolation valve and they don't drop at all. I will look at the valves again but they're all brand new parts. I think I have something installed wrong. Thanks again
Hi Dave, awesome videos! I bought a 434 with a loader and power steering. The loader and power steering work great but the 3pt hitch doesn't work at all . I replreplaced the whole lift unit and it still no luck so I bypassed the loader and plumbed the line directly into the rear lift unit and it still doesn't work. Any ideas that is going on or what I can try next?
I really need to thank you for doing these videos on the 414. I have one and there's not really any info on the Internet about them. These have been very informative and helpful.
Also is there a way to turn off the draft control? When I pick up my post hole auger it sometimes wants to bounce pretty bad until I take the weight off.
The draft control is the outside lever, push it all the way forward and that effectively turns off the draft control. Thanks for watching!
Love the channel, I just bought an IH 444 and rebuilding right now. You channel has been extremely helpful.
I am glad the videos have been helpful, thanks for watching!
just want to tell you awesome job I love your videos I recently inherited my grandfather's ih444 after he passed away I've been slowly trying to work the bugs out of it it is 49 years old with only a thousand and 97 hours it is very clean but it has a lot of issues so far today I've completely rewired it from one end to the other I've been having fuel issues I'm having the carburetor rebuilt at a shop now next is trying to sort out my leaking or bypassing hydraulics just wanted to tell you great job your videos have been an awesome help to me I want thank you and please keep them coming.
I am glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching!
Have a 444 international,you've been a great insight to all my mechanical questions,very methodical and explain all the dose and dont's,in a very self explanatory way. You've been such a great help with your videos THANKS so much for your time and knowledge 😉
THank you, I am glad you have found the videos helpful, thanks for watching!
Joey Cooling seen that you have a IH 444 I thought you could help me with something, I have a loader on mine and when it’s running I pull the lever on the loader and it barely goes up, I pull up on the right lever under the seat and I pull on the hydraulic lever for the loader it goes up normal. It does the same with the 3 point but instead I push down and it works, any ideas?
My IH 276 diesel tractor is a late 1971 model with a two levers draft control unit. So i beleive that it is the same as the B414.
I do thank you for what you do in yours videos and hope you will continue for a long time.
OK, yours should be the same as the one in the video then.
I am glad you've enjoyed the videos, I plan to keep on, thanks for watching!
Great video. Just changing 40 year old oil on my fathers international 354. Never let us down,
Great tractors, they're really hard to beat! Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, I have an international 354. I really love your helpful channel, and from watching your videos I've been able to carry our some repairs on my tractor. I replaced the brake discs based on one of your previous videos and the brakes work great now. So many thanks for your helpful videos.
The hydraulics were always a weak area on my tractor. When the oil would warm up it wouldn't lift much of a load without revving the engine, then with the lift up if the rpm was reduced to tickover the load on the lift arms would drop all the way to the bottom again. And the lift would hiccup quite rapidly. I ended up doing a major overhaul on the complete hydraulic system 6 months ago. I wish I could've seen this video when trying to get the valve control unit out of the main assembly...but I got there in the end.
So the work I did was to replace all o-rings everywhere in the control unit. I fitted a new lift piston, new lowering spool, new hydraulic pump and various other parts that came in a repair kit. I managed to remove my orifice filter and I replaced the oring on the end of it. Then a few weeks later when I was trying to remove it again the end came off from the main screen - probably because the new oring was gripping tighter. But I put it back in carefully and it seems to be ok. Should I expect any problems with this? New orifice filters are approximately $50.
After all of my hydraulic refurbishment I managed to make a lot of improvements. Lifting power has improved dramatically - now on tickover the tractor has enough lifting power to lift it's nose off the ground. The hiccuping had been completely eradicated and the lift arms would hold the load without dropping. However in the past week I have noticed the dreaded hiccup has returned! It is not as rapid as before - now it will hiccup after approximately 30 seconds. It stops when I close the isolator valve, so I know that my cylinder seals are good. I did notice that the tractor was quite low on oil so I'm going to top it up and see if that makes any difference. Do you have any ideas what could be causing the hiccups again? Bear in mind that I have fitted a new lowering spool valve among other things :(
It sounds like you have replaced or repaired all of the things that could be causing the problem, possibly leaking by the lift valve? Thanks for watching!
The relief valve is in the valve assembly beyond the isolator valve. We sold 2 hydraulic pumps to one guy the same day because he split the pump wide open dead heading it with the isolator valve.
The relief valve is only in the lift circuit and is mainly for an overload situation on the 3PH. I expect the reason it's isolated from the auxiliary circuit is to eliminate the possibility of stacking relief valves. If 2 relief valves are on the same circuit you add the 2 pressures together before a relief valve will open causing a dangerous pressure situation.
In attempting to remove the hydraulic orifice filter, the filter will spin in either direction but will not release from the housing. Is there an o-ring or retainer holding it in place or do I need to pull harder. Following your advice, I don't want to over do it and break it. Thanks for your videos.
Keep these coming, great video
I am glad you enjoyed the video, stay tuned, there will be more coming shortly. Thanks for watching!
Good morning Dave
Hay I just found your videos good stuff
I Just picked up a IH B 250 diesel
Looking for a spec book and videos
Sat in the woods in Vermont for 3 years checked fluids all good put a battery in it and a little starter fluid and it fired up so anything on that model would be great
Thank you so much from the great state of Vermont
I got one, You can buy the manual online us prices I dont know but ebay you ll find it. Get the service manual it shows everything you need.
Nice video brother..
I am hydraulic mechanic..
This lift is so good
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Would love to see an ih444 complete hydraulic rebuild and would also love to see you switch manual steering to a power steering on an ih444
Great help but now the valve body itself and the assembly. Are there no adjustments etc.
Been waiting on this video. Thanks a lot. Maybe I can get the nerve to pop it open and repair my IH 374. I got the repair kit and it has 50 or so O rings in it. Trying to match them up will be a challenge for me. Again thanks for this video
I am happy to oblige, I'm just sorry it took so long. Good luck with the seal kit and thanks for watching!
Good day Good video I don't have 414 anymore, good tractor went to 574 Thanks for now
That's a big bump in HP, and nice trator too. I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Olá amigo, muito interessante o seu trabalho com tratores antigos, gosto muito disso, vejo uma retroescavadeira ao fundo, vou procurar no canal para ver se tem algum video sobre ela. Bom trabalho por aí. Fique com Deus. Abraço!
The old backhoe is a MF50A, I don't have any videos on it, I just have it around for personal use. I am glad you are enjoying my work, thanks for watching!
Awesome video again Dave just one little thing my lift arms quit working the other day so torn apart and the only thing that I found in there they seem to be wrong is there's a chain with some rubber hose on it going up towards the filter I believe we're does that hook one end is to linkage the other one is just floating round in there of wondering if that hooked to the bottom plate where that other spring is I can't seem to find it in any parts manual my shop manual
I can't remember now but from what I can see in the parts manual it fastens to a link on the rockshaft. Thanks for watching!
Cool video. I am wondering if I can put that style of lift system on my 340 IH tractor. I'd prefer to have draft control and the third arm available when needed. Very informative video BTW.
The 340 is a completely different series of tractor, this unit would not easily adapt over. Thanks for watching!
very helpful. Thank you!
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Very helpful vid as always! Got an odd one with a B414, we've recently serviced and changed all the fluids including the hydraulic oil, gave the filter a good clean before putting it back. However now the hydraulic arms will go down no problem, but they will not come back up and the pump makes a pretty different set of noises (not altogether good sounding), but the arms do not come back regardless. Broken pump or is it something simple?
Make sure the "open/close"valve is open on the valve body. Make sure you have 3 inches of hydraulic oil in the reservoir.
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hi, thank you for the great videos u got here, they have helped me out before.
I got a IH444 and the three part is jerking. I think it’s a leak in the piston so I got some new o-rings, backup and gaskets for this job. It’s not that easy to find these older parts here in Sweden..
The question: How much do I need to remove to get to the piston and change o-ring? Do I need to disassembly everything like u do in the video, or can I just get the valve body off in a easy way and get to the piston that way?
Ty once again.
You will have to lift the unit off the tractor and open at least the top plate, maybe the bottom too, to unhook some links inside to pull the valve body and cylinder out the front. Thanks for watching!
Could you do an instructional video on how to correctly use the draft control feature? Fab videos
This is a great video. I have leaks on those valves in the front. Can I get the o rings at a hardware store? Also, the Draft control has a small steel rod that moves in and out at the back of the transmission unit where the spring is located. Should that have a gasket or o ring? It is leaking there, also. Thanks, Chris
I believe the draft control rod out the back has a seal around it on the outside of the case. The o-rings you should be able to get a t a hardware shop or machine shop. Thanks for watching!
H i Dave your videos on the B414 taught me a lot on how to do it myself you explain things really good Dave can I take an Hydraulic lift assembly from a newer B414 # 306 is first 3 and put it on a B414 #304 older style
As a complete assembly yes, they will interchange. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have a b414 when I lift the lifting arms they are jumping. They move fine without weight on them. I changed the hydraulic filter and put in fresh oil it’s still the same. When I pull he draft control up full it lifts not a problem with weight on it but it puts pressure on the engine. I removed the plate under the seat and the position control lever works fine. Your opinion would be much appreciated on what the problem could be. Thank you
Sound like it could be some dirt in valve or the little screen in the front of the valve body possibly.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks again for the information you have in your videos I enjoy watching . I have a problem that I can't find discussed hoping you will help my lift arms will slowly fall down (under load) to a point then suddenly jerk back up to set position over and over as long a tractor is running but will hold in position if tractor is not running . problem is with my ford super dextra.
I would have said leaking by in the lift cylinder but if it holds a load up when the engine is off,,,,, maybe the valve?
Thanks for watching!
You show the disassembly of the hydraulics on the 434 in this video, but have you ever done a video on the overhaul of the valve gear? Great videos by the way!
N, I haven't overhauled a valve assy. Thanks for watching!
You have helped me enormously with my 444 & 574.
Question: my 444, rear lift arm, won't lift? I've done the basic maintenance with fluids and filters. What do you suggest?
Make sure the valve on the left is open, if that's not it then likely an internal valve sticking. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the information. If the shifter housing has to come off to align the gears are there any issues that I should be aware of or does the housing and shifter just lift up and drop back in? I know I have to move the hydraulic housing back enough to clear the shifter housing. Thanks again
The shifter cover is a pain to re-install, the forks lift with the cover so you have to line the forks all up with the gears as you set it back in place. If you are having trouble with being stuck in gear, pull the lever out of the cover and line up the rails in the center (neutral) position and then put the lever back in. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave,
My B414 hydraulics are jerky when lifting.
Draft control lever is forward and isolator valve is as open as it can be unscrewed.
It wasn't jerky until I replaced the oil with modern hydraulic oil. When I realised that was wrong, I flushed twice with SAE30, checked the suction pipe strainer was clean and it's still jerky.
The isolator valve will only turn one full revolution and I noticed that yours will turn a couple of times.
What do you think is causing the jerky lifting? (it hasn't lost lifting power, just jerky lift and smooth when lowering).
The 414 series tractors were meant to use a modern hydraulic/transmission oil. Try taking the isolater valve out and cleaning it and the passage, check in the hole with a light to make sure there is nothing in there. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, great video! Any chance you could do a video on the valves and how they work. My 414 will lift the arms slowly without a load and when looking under the top plate can see it shooting oil back to reservoir rather than into cylinder to lift properly.
Thanks so much
I will try to come up with another unit to pull apart.
Thanks for watching!
Mine does the same....did you find out what was the problem
G'day Dave, I've just inherited an A414 (Aussie made version) which is leaking hydraulic oil like a sieve from nearly everywhere it can. Do you know if there are gasket kits available, or should I make my own paper gaskets or use a silicone gasket goop?
You could try a CaseIH dealer for the gaskets, if no luck there then I would recommend the gasket paper and make your own. I don't like silicone around oil, it breaks down and gets where you don't want it. Thanks for watching!
I tell you Dave you are Johnny on the spot. How ever I did figure this one out on my own. But I'm having trouble with the o ring size 1 15/16 or 47mm. 3/16 to 4.5mm thickness? I put an 1/8 thick 17/8 in it and it leak as bad as the o ring that was in it to start.
It was British built so likely metric. Make sure there are no burrs in the hole either.
Hey Dave,
I have a 1967 2444 and when I am using my three point hitch I have about a half an inch drop and then the hitch jumps back up to its correct position.
I have the IH -34 manual and wanted to know if you could give me some advice on this.
I replaced the suction screen and the fluid 2017 thinking that might help.
I still have the same problem.
Also I was wondering what the auxiliary control valve is for because I would love to get a flail or sickle mower to do my extremely deep steep drainage ditches.
I am completely lost when it comes to hydraulics so I appreciate any advice you can give me.
If you have a place to get parts cheaper please let me know.
I won’t be able to rebuild the entire unit until winter because my
John Deere 330 garden tractor model 50 deck finally rusted through enough the pulley that the mule runs broke out.
So the IH with my rotary cutter is my lawn mower.
Thanks so much.
You’re perfect for doing these videos.
You are thorough without over talking about things that are not important .
I am glad you enjoy the format, I try not to fill up too much time droning on about nothing.
The dropping and correcting is fluid leaking by, either the piston or one of the valves. You probably want to check the valves first for dirt or damage, then check the cylinder and piston/packing for scores or tears where fluid could leak by.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for that...and I have the same tractor not lifting up enough or it's just lifting half not fully up don't know why.
Thanks for watching!
I'm in the process of rebuilding my b414, and luckily(!) I came across you channel. These videos are very explainatory, and very helpful for my own project. Currently I'm working on the rear differential/diff lock, but parts for this is difficult to come by. Any advice on where to look for these parts?
Check out www.chowntractorparts.com Thanks for watching!
Dave, can just the valve body cover be removed once the hydraulic line is disconnected to access the spool assembly's. Or do have to tear the whole case apart? I think I have some o-ring issues making the 3pt act up.
You should be able to take just the valve body front plate off without pulling the cylinder etc. form the housing. Thanks for watching!
i would love to see a video on pulling the top off of the transmision of a 354. mine has stopped shifting properly. Thanka
If you check out th-cam.com/video/U4Nv3hvTMXA/w-d-xo.html it's a 414 transmission video, same transmission as a 354, thanks for watching!
I enjoy your videos , just curious if you heard of a International 2350 series A tractor . I have one but can't find any info on it
I am not familiar with the 2350, but there should be a model and serial number stamped into the block so you can at least identify the engine. It will likely be the same engine as a farm tractor. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have B414 sn 3400 and thus far the hydraulics have not required me to disassemble them. However I recently got an IH 424 where the sector control had been left full open for years while the tractor was used for a post pounder. Now the sector arm will not control the lift arms. Only by using the other hydraulics can I shift the control arms. I would like to now what damage comes from leaving the sector arm past its stopping point. Can you help?
I am not familiar with the 424 lift unit, sorry, but it sounds like a valve could be stuck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for these great how to videos for the B414. I just came into possession of one with a snowblower and a trip bucket, I wish it had power steering lol. Is there a way to convert the trip bucket to one with down pressure? How would I plumb into the hydrulics to add bucket controls?
If your loader runs from the 3PH controls currently you will have to tap into the pressure line between the pump and the lift unit. You need to use a "power beyond" valve so you don't get a "stacking"effect from having more than one relief valve in a single circuit. Thanks for watching!
Have you ever looked at the import tractor parts power steering conversion kits? I've never heard of anyone in the IH B series community installing one. $1250
Mahindra 595 di haidrlic fitting
Awesome videos I have IH 2444 and the valve body is leaking alot but I can't seem to get the hydraulic unit to come off it there any hidden bolts and is there a good place to get a seal kit for it
Check along the front side, there may abolt hiding under the edge of the valve body there. The lift units sit down on a couple of dowels and they take quite a bit of force to break loose.
Thanks for watching!
That was really a great video bro🙏🙏🙏,, please make a video on oil flow circuit and spool valve working and assembly, and explain possible troubles that might occur.,, Love from India bro❤❤❤❤
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thanks for your videos, Dave. I recently did the head gasket on my 414 and wouldn’t have attempted it without this channel. My hydraulic unit has a leak at the blind end of the front pipe, an o-ring issue I assume.
Outstanding man, I'm glad I could be of help! I'm not quite following which pipe you mean but you can do it, just start carefully digging and you will find the issue. Thanks for watching!
Sorry, where the high pressure line goes into the control valve unit, at the other end of this raised casing is a seal, of some kind, which has a small leak on mine. Your tear-down will no doubt help.
i would like to see a video about the diesel injection pump..if you still makes videos :)
Hi Dave thanks for your videos. Problem with my 1969 IH 434 diesel with P-steering and loader. Slow lifting, won”t tolerate heavy load. Oil il getting milky after a few hours only. Oil filter is clean. Any way to find the problem? Keep on we love your videos. Very well done! B.
Milky oil is usually an indication of water but if you have changed it that should rule water out. I could also be getting air in the oil that would cause a milky color but also make the oily foamy which would be an indication of a bad oil pump or a weak relief valve.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Dave, do you do series on carburetors rebuilds? I have a B414 and I’ve tried to rebuild a carburetor, but I’m having trouble.
I don't have a video on those carbs, they're not terribly complicated but they are a picky SOB. Thanks for watching!
ok found the part I have been asking about but looks like a big job to remove control valve body unit to reseal and replace gasket if that is the oil leak problem I have not simple unless its good weather or heated garage wondering it can be pulled back far enough to resilicone
Yeah its a pretty big job to pull the valve body out of the lift unit and you don't want to lift the shift cover, pull the lift unit. Check for leaks around the filter , could be leaking by the o-ring there.
Thanks for watching!
I was repairing leaks on my b414 hydraulic unit. The plug on the left side refused to come out... pulled the circlip and it didn't come out. Ended up having to drill and tap the plug to pull it out. Spring came out, but nothing behind it that I could see/remove. Diagram shows something in there... what is it?
Oh, any tips on preventing the diesel shutoff knob from vibrating out on a 414? I don't seem to have a spring in there to keep it pushed in... so it vibrates out and starves for fuel.
On the hydraulic unit I expect that would be some sort of valve plunger. You could add a spring to the shutoff to keep it in the run position. There is supposed to be a spring steel band close to the knob that grabs the bracket so it can.t move, may be worn, you could try to bend it so it's tight also. Thanks for watching!
I just subscribed Have been watching for 3 years . have made a complete motor job on a bd154 434 International took hydrolic apart how do I set the lever
I am sorry, I don't have a manual on that so I'm not sure.
Thanks for watching!
Hey great video. I have a 444. Have a oil leak between the front valbody plates.is it Possible to split without taking everything off the transmission? Thanks for your help.
It is pretty tight there but the front plate only has to come forward a short way, you may be able to get the front plate off without lifting the unit. Thanks for watching!
Questions on that port for aux. hydraulics, I'm guessing you would have to disconnect the woodsplitter or whatever was hooked up before you could use the hitch again?
That is correct, with the valve open and a wood splitter connected the oil would just circulate through the splitter valve and not make any pressure in the lift. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the web site looks like I should be able to find my parts The lift is building pressure in the lift housing I changed the hydraulic fluid today that didn’t help the Fill plug on the back if you leave off blows hydraulic fluid out Took a drill bit and drilled A vent hole in the plug Trying to relieve the pressure without losing all my fluid thinking that would slow it down but it would still blow all the fluid out the pin hole so now got to find out what is causing it to build the pressure any ideas thank you for the videos and your time for trying to help me figure this out
It sounds like you are over filling, there should only be 3 inches of fluid in the reservoir.
I know it sounds like but It will push it all out to were the front end loader will not even left Up i drained the entire system And put hy trans back in it today to make sure and still building to much Pressure I took everything off the lift on the back and its still trying to raise up higher than it should with nothing on it and sounds like it’s trying to squall the pump
Thank you for sharing this. I'm sure this is dumb, but my valve body/assembly (now that I have a name) leaks horribly. It looks a bit different than yours, but similar. Seems to be leaking out the valves. Can I replace those handle valves without tearing this all the way down as you do here? I thought the valves felt under pressure when I started to unbolt, so I was unsure. Further, not even sure where I find new ones (though I'm guessing and hoping it is mostly the o-rings but they do not turn the way yours did.).
As long as it's not running the only pressure should be spring pressure but I don't think there are springs behind them in any configuration I am aware of. It should just be o-rings so pop them out and take them to a machine shop or the like in your area to get proper size ones and that will likely look after your leaks. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks. I'll give that a shot!
Cant find the drain plug on my 624. The op manual just says remove it but not were it is. Also something about a strainer. Luckely the oil looks fine on the oil level plug and the oil seeping from the hydraulic joystick.
It will be on the bottom of the case somewhere, just look for it.
Good morning! On my tractor 434 the two arms of the hydraulic scan only go down to half the course even with a weight of 120kg. The two levers are pulled forward. Can anyone give me an idea where the malfunction might be? Thank you
Hey Dave the video is awesome . I have an IH 444 and it’s lifters are not working
J have tried all the knowledge I had possible but still no change . Can you suggest few solutions
Hard to tell with the information given but it could be a linkage unhooked, the lift control valve or the dump valve. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, I do enjoy your videos. I have a B414 my control arms will go up when I start the tractor but will not go down.Once I cut the engine off the control arms will very slowly fall (in a day). I changed the fluid cleaned the filter which was very dirty but still will not work. the suction and return line do get warm . I would sure appreciate your input as to what I could do to fix it.
That is probably the unloading valve. I am glad you enjoy my videos, thanks for watching!
Melvin & Dave, I am having the exact same problem, if either of you have advice on how to access and fix the unloading valve that would be a great help to me.
Hi
Great videos
I've an international 354 and have some issues with the hydraulics.
It lifts easily initially when cold but then it gradually has to be revved more and more to achieve the lift until it eventually becomes very difficult to lift at all.
The oil gets hot and lift can be lost. It then begins to drop as one drives along. It also has a jerking motion on a regular basis.
I've a relatively new pump installed and have changed the oil and oil filter. There doesn't seem to be air in the system when I dip the oil. It seems clear in appearance.
I've changed the o ring in the isolater valve.
From the info I can pick up here and there it appears maybe I've got an issue with the piston seal, the relief valve. It seems there are a plethora of o rings behind the control valve casing which you took apart in your video of the 414. There seems to be a lot of bits and pieces, springs etc attached to the back of the control unit
Do you have any video as regards the detail of how these are repaired/replaced. For instance can a complete new relief valve be installed without pulling all the little bits and pieces. Where exactly is it etc
Be great to hear back
From what you describe I would agree, either piston seal or the relief valve. Unfortunately this video pretty much contains the extent of my knowledge on these units. Thanks for watching!
Many thanks for the prompt reply especially from a guy all the way from Ireland!
Wondering could you point me in any direction where I might get more info?
@@mrpm5093 Probably your best bet if you know of any older IH mechanics around you to help you out.
@@CanadianRedneck15
Thanks again
Had forgotten there's a former international dealership now Case nearby. They do repairs as well.
Will have a chat with them
Keep up the good work!
Ty for the post
Thanks for watching!
I've got a 354 that leakslike a siv where the hydraulic unit bols to frame. Is there a specific gasket to replace or will sylicon/liquid gasket work? Thanks
The lift unit is a sealed unit and there is only a few inches of oil in the differential case, so it shouldn't be leaking from between the lift unit and the dif case, it's more likely that there is a leak in the lift unit and when it runs down over it looks like it leaking from between the two. First check would be the suction filter o-ring at the front of the unit. Thanks for watching!
Speaking of the isolator valve, I have a B250 so the earlier version of this with a T handle isolator valve, anyway its broken at the retaining pin which seperated the T from the threaded valve, anyway cant find a replacement anywhere and whenever they plugged up the front loader they have it run from the remotes point ie 1 hose only to the loader so hydraulic lift gravity lower. I had tried to adjust the T valve when I had to weld it to get back in place so it would still thread but during opertion it seems that the rear hitch lifts always first, then when that has reached height the front loader goes up, Worked for a little while but then due to pressure it blew the T valve apart and oil everywhere. Have you got any suggestions ? What I can do here, its bloody annoying.
You are going to need to find another isolater valve. When the isolater valve closes properly the 3 PH should not lift when working the loader.
Thanks for watching!
I have a 3444 loader and the three point goes up all the way in less i cut tractor off then it leaks down to were I have the Lever height set to I have a barrel that is full of Concrete with it on the back then it goes down and up like it should Justed the draft control lever all the way down doesn’t help any of advance would be great
It sounds like either it's building pressure in the unit from the oil heating up or the dump valve is sticky or partly plugged.
Thanks for watching!
I was working on the 3444 today and noticed that the spring behind the top link was broke could that be causing the problems You was talking about a dump valve Can you tell me about where that is located I’m going to change the hydraulic fluid in it maybe tomorrow and put what it calls for cause I’m pretty sure the guy that put the pressure plate in clutch put the wrong fluid in it but not for sure so I’m going to change it again anyways All the tractor places around here Has no information really only 3444 so i’m hoping you may be able to get me going thanks for your time and the videos
The broken spring shouldn't cause the problem you describe. Check out the CaseIH parts site partstore.caseih.com/us/index.html?csid=a8ad2ae818327ae353f3dc3cf5e6f427&sl=EN¤cy= you will be able to find a parts break down of the lift unit under 444 or 384 tractors.
Thanks for watching!
On my control unit the fast/ slow valve broke and I believe this is why the loader stopped working? I have sourced a replacement fast /slow valve but my loader still will not work? I have cracked the two hydraulic lines and there is oil there. The thing I can’t work out though is that I cannot turn the installed valve and I was wondering if there is a specific way to re-install the valve?
As I recall you just thread in the nut(collar?) that holds in the valve and the valve spins in with the nut. Not really important what direction the valve is, it acts by being out as far as the collar will allow or held in by the ridges and pin to cut down the flow.
I don't think that should affect your loader but I don't know how yours is plumbed in.
Thanks for watching!
So the 3pt won't go down on my 354. I decided to check o rings and condition of the fast slow and the other valve and change the hyd oil. The oil looked decent, no water. As I removed the on/off valve it shot out under a lot of pressure with milky oil and 3pt dropped. Fired up the tractor-no leaks. 3pt hitch went up-stayed up. Any suggestions?
The dump valve could be stuck or dirty so it won't release.
Thanks for watching!
Are the any videos or help on how to lift off the gear shifter housing on a 1970 HI 434 tractor that is stuck in 4th gear?
No videos, sorry. At the base of the shift lever knock out the pin that holds the lever in place, (it's behind two little plugs, use a small punch and drive it through one plug to pop it out and knock the other plug out with the pin.) Lift the lever out and you will be able to line all the shift rails up in the center(should only be one out of center). That should get the tractor in neutral for you.
Thanks for watching!
I have a International 384 tractor. I rebuilt the hydraulic unit but when I went to use it oil sprayed out. I used o rings from a o ring kit which is smaller than the oem parts. Can you tell me where I can get a o ring kit for the hydraulic unit. Like your video's. Thanks
It's made in England so are likely metric o-rings, try a Case-IH dealer. Thanks for watching!
What would cause the three point assembly to rise on its own when the lever is in the down position? If you put pressure down on the arms it will not rise but if no wait it will rise. Also to remove the center top cover on the trans ware the shifter is do you have to remove the hydraulic lift assembly first? We are having issues ware the transmission wants to pop out of high range. The questions are directed twords a b414. Thank you
There is some sort of a restriction causing the hydraulic oil to flow into the lift cylinder rather than cycle through back to the reservoir. To remove the shift cover you have to take off the lift unit first. Thanks for watching!
i see supply for the remotes where does return go and my pto will not engage i think the splines are fowled some way havent looked is there anything tricky to looklout for while working on the pto
You can put a tee in the fill or drain for the hydraulic unit for the return. Nothing especially tricky wit the PTO. Thanks for watching!
Very useful video , thanks man .
444 ovner
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Hej, nice video! i have a b414 diesel, hydraulic is not stabil, falling down and pumping up all the time, cant lift a plow anymore and as soon as i shut the ventil under the seat or i turn off the engine the hydraulic is falling down fast. is this because of the sealings in the kolv/cylinder and the valve? kind regards from sweden
That could be either the cylinder leaking by or the valve. Thanks for watching!
I know this is probably a dumb question but can I plumb around the lift assembly I bought a old tractor with a ton of old hoses I don't want to replace because I will never use anything but the front loader
If you don't intend to use it you certainly can bypass the lift unit. Thanks for watching!
Dave, i started watching your video's because of your shooting video's but love these tractor repair video's too. I work on trucks n cars for fun. Question, you don't have any smashed fingernails. lol. And how's your Mauser doing ???? :)
That's awesome Mega, I'm glad you enjoy what I do! I do get the odd blackened finger nail, last one was while I was doing some carpentry this fall. LOL The Mauser is very satisfying, I will get a video up of it shortly. Thanks for watching!
you the man ............
Could you show how all the linkage on the inside is all connected?
If I get another unit I can try to get a better view of the inner linkage, it's tricky without a cut away unit. Thanks for watching!
I only seen one other comment about the chain that has a rubber sleeve over it .I can't for the life of me figure out where the other end hooks to. It was just laying on the bottom with 2 links broken off of it. It's still attached at front. Any help would be very much appreciated thanks. Great videos!
I'm sorry I don't have one to look at right now and my manual doesn't show it.
@@CanadianRedneck15 ok. thanks for reply
is it possibly a retainer for the filler cap? I don't think that my B 414 has anything like that. Dropped in by accident??
Hey how would I add rear remotes on a 384, with a separate control so I can maintain use of the 3pt controls. I have a ezee on front end loader. Can it tie into the input and out line of the front end loader valve body. Then add a separate lever to power the remotes on or off?
If you use a "power beyond" valve you can run the oil flow from the pump through the new valve to the lift unit and then be able to use both at the same time. Thanks for watching!
My b414 three point hitch has the hiccups under load. It will drift down then pop back up to desired hight. I would like to fix that. What direction should I head to truble shoot this issue? I was wondering what seals and oring I would need or maybe a kit to get to rebuild this and fix the issue? I have parts manual and shop manuals. Thanks
I expect it would be leaking by in the cylinder but it could also be the valve. Thanks for watching!
I have a 444 and if I lift the arms all the way up they get stuck. To get them back down I have pull the draft sensor/plunger out with pliers while working the lever. As long as I don't go too far up they work fine. Any idea on what the problem could be?
It sounds like there may be a problem with the internal linkage as it relates to the lowering valve.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave - this is completely off topic but have you come across an electronic ignition conversion kit you would recommend for a B414? Mine was converted to 12V positive. Many thanks! (from Malcolm using Sarah's PC)
The 12V positive ground would be the factory system. The 414s could have either Delco or Lucas ignition, I see a kit for the Delco distributors but you would have to switch it out to negative ground. Check with A&I Products for a dealer in your area to get the kit. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic, thank you so much for the detailed answer & quick turn around, Dave. I'm actually very glad to hear the 12v positive is factory (the fewer mods the better in my mind). I'll check out for local A&I dealers. Cheers and thanks again. I'll keep an eye out for your next video updates :)
I just realized my mistake - I meant to say my 414 was converted to 12v negative ground.
Great video. I’ve got a 484 that I bought new it’s been and still is a good machine. I’ve got a little over 5k hours on it and the three point lift just started to move slow and tractor has to be reved way up for it to lift at all. Has new fluid & filter !screen is clean , pressure relief valve is good I changed it out with another tractor , diverter valve to steering isn’t stuck . I would appreciate any advice as to what to look for next. RED POWER
If that has just suddenly started then I would say there must be a blockage/restriction on the suction side of the hydraulic pump, if it has been a gradual problem getting worse over time it's most likely a bad hydraulic pump. Thanks for watching!
HI Dave. I own a 1964 B414. The selector on left ha
nd side next to the Pto lever does not respond when when turned to slow or fast. Currently the Pto shaft is in fast mode in high gear and slow mode when in low gear. Also pto engage when the clutch is released and stop when the clutch is pushed in. Is this a fault on the tractor or is it the way they operate. Can this be fixed or changed. Can you give me advice. Thanks
The fast slow selector is for your hydraulics. The PTO is entirely dependant on engine speed. If you have the live PTO you push the clutch down one step to stop the transmission and a second step (to the foot board) to stop the PTO. If you don't have the 2 steps (stages) in the clutch pedal you may have a damaged or out of adjustment clutch or you may not have live PTO.
Thanks for watching!
Hello Dave from Greece!!! I have the international 434 and I am going to repair the hydraulic system!! I don't know if the cap in the photo 9:09 minute as shown for the 444 model also has the 434 model? If you could help me I would really appreciate it
Yes, that should be the same unit for both so same cap. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I live north of StStephen, N.B. I have just this morning started dismantling to repair drivline problem, sounds like a tooth broken somewhere. Do you sell parts? and if so how do we get in contact? Leonard W.
I am glad you enjoyed the video. You can reach me at sales@chowntractorparts.com Thanks for watching!
I think I asked you a few years back about an issue on my International 444. When I enable the PTO the lever starts jumping and feels like a stripped gear. Is there a manual I could use to try fixing the issue. I also recently started having with the 3 point not lifting and power steering. I bought some oil so I can check the filter and level as well.
Do you mean the lever jumps when you try to put it in gear? That would be the PTO clutch not releasing.
@@CanadianRedneck15 I press the clutch and put the PTO lever. As soon as I start mower and it hits grass the lever starts jumping. The previous owner would keep his foot on the lever but it got worse.
If tractor is on low rpms with cutter and I rev it it jumps out and disables. I am not sure how to explain this.
@@cutweldngrind Yeah, you're going to have to open it up and check it out, likely a bad bearing.
@@CanadianRedneck15 I might have to search for a tractor mechanic or a manual. Thanks
Hello Dave I have an international 434 and I have a problem with the hydraulic lift for the 3 point hitch. It lifts as soon as you start the tractor even with the control lever in the lower position just woundering what I could check or how to fix it or what to do? Thanks
Make sure your draft control lever is most of the way forward, if that isn't it you will have to check for a stuck/blocked valve or linkage out of adjustment. Thanks for watching!
On the back of the unit beside where the broken spring was... There is a pin of some sort that is leaking on my tractor is that a relief or something?
That is part of the draft control mechanism, there is a seal that goes around the pin. Thanks for watching!
I'm having an issue where my tractor hydraulics on a ih444 to 1970 model leak down while the tractor is running then it'll jerk up sporadically and rather aggressively making the whole tractor shake I find that if I shut the hydraulic valve off it won't lie down which I have to do when going down the road kefir in it from jerking the tractor what I'm carrying and implement what are your thoughts I've been told it's bypassing in the valve body
If the shut off will hold the load up then the cylinder is fine so it is leaking by the valve. It may need an o-ring or some thing of that nature.
Thanks for watching!
In India it's name is Mahindra Tractor.
Thanks for your information brother
I had heard that Mahindra made these tractors for sale in INdia after IH had stopped, do they still build these old models?
Thanks for watching!
You do some really cool videos on repair very helpful also like you old shooting videos, sadly nazitube has deleted a vid from a fellow canadian firearm owner.
I saw that too, a slug mold review of all things!! Very confusing and vague terms, leaves an uneasy feeling for sure. I am glad you enjoy my channel, thanks for watching!
Do you happen to have a good tandem hydraulic pump kicking around for a 384/444?
I don't have a used one right now but they are available new. You can email me sales@chowntractorparts.com
Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video on how to install a hydraulic remote to a b414 I have on but would like to add remotes
I'm sorry, I don't have a video on that. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any videos that would explain how to add dual remotes to a 444?
I am not how to tie into this system for a double acting cylinder
I am sorry, I don't have a video on that but I will try to make one. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave. I bought a B414 diesel a couple of months ago and have been working some of the bugs out. Your videos have been very helpful. I am having one problem where the 3pt hitch will raise when I increase the engine rpms even though the controls are in the lowest position. Makes using tractor for mowing pretty useless. Do you have any thoughts on what might cause that? My guess is a problem with the valve body but I'm not ready to tackle that yet.
I would say a restriction (probably some dirt) in the valve body, try cleaning the little brass screen in the front center of the valve body. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thanks for the information, I will certainly look there first!
@@CanadianRedneck15 I found the orifice assembly to be completely stopped up like you thought. I cleaned it and while I had the fluid drained I pulled the main filter screen. That is when I found there wasn't any filter in the return line, which is also the reason the orifice screen was stopped up. I have another B414 I use for parts and it had one in it, so after a thorough cleaning I put it in. Bleeding the darn thing was a pain but it is going again. Thank you for your help! By the way you have put out some great videos that are very informative.
@@carsonmills1899 Awesome, glad you found the problem!
Where are located .I have one of these tractors and want to get power sterring
Hello from Scotland, On my tractor the lift arms are very slow to drop down with a plough fitted also the arms will not rise unless you lift the draught lever to maximum height and when it does get to the top it jitters up and down or shakes have you any ideas what might be wrong? I fitted a new suction filter and put new oil in. Using the position control lever will not raise the arms unless the draught lever is right at the top is that normal?
No, definitely not normal, sounds like the linkage could be out of adjustment. The draft control lever should be all the way foir ward when not plowing. Also check your fast/slow valve and make sure it is set to fast. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave I have 1970? 444 international and the 3pt hitch jumps all the time, no matter where I set the levers. any ideas on how I can stop this. TY
That could be the cylinder leaking or a valve leaking by so the arms drop a little and then jump back up. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Where can I get parts for my b414? Id like to replace the electrical. Also my clutch is not working and was wondering if I can get to it from the bottom plate under the tractor? Need brakes too. Cheers
You can see the clutch from the bottom plate but will likely have to split the tractor to attempt any clutch repairs. If you are in Canada check www.chowntractorparts.com for parts or elsewhere a local parts store.
Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks for advice. I'm in ont. I probably won't get to it until spring. My local store can't even get spark plugs for it. Merry Christmas
@@CanadianRedneck15 you can click on my name to see my channel. Mainly solar.
Hi from UK, I have the same rear end that has its arms stuck in the up potion, both levers fully forward - any thoughts on what may be causing it?
That would be a stuck valve most likely, probably the dump valve. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video, I’ve always wanted a tutorial on how to do this, I have a 444 and the hydraulics have been a bit weak for awhile and the oil was filthy so I drained the hydraulic oil and replaced the filter and put new oil in. After that it seemed better at first but when I went to use the tractor it stopped working, until I turned the tractor around and it was pointed downhill. With the front of the tractor pointing downhill it would lift back up. After trying a few things I finally decided to try adding more fluid which helped a lot, but it’s quite a bit overfilled now. I still sometimes have to rev the engine a bit to get it to lift, but it does at least work now even going uphill although I wouldn’t say its very strong or fast. Is there any harm in running it overfilled for now to use it? And do I have a problem with something in the hydraulic system or is the hydraulic pump getting weak? I used it like this last week and it worked surprisingly well
Being overfilled shouldn't do any harm as long as there is still room for the heat expansion of the oil. A weak oil pump will show up as the oil gets warm, it would lift fairly well when cold but get progressively weaker as it warms up. Check your suction pipe from the filter to the pump for any kind of blockage as well.
Thanks for watching!
I just rebuilt a 434 and used this video to get through it. The hitch was pulled and half disassembled 2 years ago. He went in for back surgery and ended up having a massive stroke. By the grace of god he is still here, and we have been working on it together. So on to the problem I'm having. The hydraulic hitch is jumping slightly when arms are stopped in any position. I made sure I put everything back the way I removed them. I then found out that the hitch was doing that when it was removed originally. Do you think the thermal relief valve could be the problem? I read on a forum that another person had same issue and had two parts flipped when assembled. The books I have don't give a good description of which way those parts go in. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
That jump is usually caused by either the lift cylinder leaking or a valve leaking so the arms actually drop a little and then jump back to the set height. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks for the reply. I'm pretty confident that the lift cylinder is not leaking because I can lift the arms with weight on them and shut the isolation valve and they don't drop at all. I will look at the valves again but they're all brand new parts. I think I have something installed wrong. Thanks again
Hi Dave, awesome videos! I bought a 434 with a loader and power steering. The loader and power steering work great but the 3pt hitch doesn't work at all . I replreplaced the whole lift unit and it still no luck so I bypassed the loader and plumbed the line directly into the rear lift unit and it still doesn't work. Any ideas that is going on or what I can try next?
I'm sure you did but did you check that the valve on the right side is open?
Yes the valve is wide open, the fast slow valve is on fast setting and there is no screen in the valve body
@@stevehinds7231 Without being able to be hands on I've pretty much exhausted my knowledge, hydraulics aren't my strong suit, sorry.
Ok thanks for your time.