Will my abandoned, broken International B275 Tractor start - and what's wrong with it?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2022
- Hello everyone,
Today we're looping back to the very first episode of LMM, when Lawrie took out his International tractor for a drive.
A few episodes later, it died, never to feature again. So today, Lawrie's decided to find out just why it stopped running, and what can be done to get it to run again.
A video featuring, and edited by Lawrie.
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Always start by checking flow from the tank (even at the lift pump). Saves hours of looking & finding nothing, and not knowing why. The 'hunting' is the govenor mechanism, at the opposite end of the injection pump to the drive input. There should be a (very) large nut or screw to remove for inspection, just add half pint of engine oil there and run the engine. Almost always sorts it.
It shares oil with the engine, it's got a side panel that removes for inspection, but that's about it.
Love the sound of a diesel. They have a certain organic life sound to them. The heart beats the soul sings, and the wheels turn!
Ever have a go at a Fairmont Railway speeder? Air cooled twin flywheel hit and miss engine with belt drive, no transmission. If you want to go backwards, you shut off, move the timer handle to the opposite end of the throw and crank the engine by hand... BACKWARDS. It really does run in reverse revolution!
I've heard of them - but never been lucky enough to get a go!
Tip - When blowing the **** out of a bunged up fuel (or oil) line make sure the "open" end is not pointing towards any washing blowing merrily in the breeze.......
Have you learnt from experience
@@lmm I'm pleading the 5th......
The sludge is probably diesel bug I only heard about it a month or two ago. From what I remember you can buy some treatment that also cleans the fuel system.
It'll get some cleaner in there as a temporary measure
Excellent video, thanks. I went through the same situation last year with mine. Plenty of swearing involved!! 😂
Nice to see it running again, might have a sticky governor system, its hunting a bit.
Just a little.... Needs investigation!
would it not have made sense to try and clean the fuel tank a bit of the sludge, or is that not a practical thing to do?
This is LMM, we don't come here for "practical"
I did give it a flush, but left that out the video.
The tank really needs removal and properly cleaning but much bigger job that I was planning
@@lmm taking the tank of them is a pain
If the surging disappears completely under load I would guess the problem is excessive slop somewhere in the governor mechanism.
Under low load conditions when just a little throttle is needed the linkages then have a delay between when throttle is needed and when it is actually communicated to the injection pump, causing surging.
On the lawn mower governors I have seen there is often a spring in parallel to some linkages that acts as a thightener-upper-thingy so that any slop is eliminated. As long as the spring is strong enough to counteract any force from the governor it should work.
I had thought maybe the spring in the governer was knackered!
@@lmm usually the fuel pump timing why they hunt with the early inline pump engine like yours. You Need to adjust the timing until it starts Ok but doesn't hunt.
There is in inspection cover on the side of the injector pump. If you remove it and add some oil on the injector pistons they will stop sticking. This was an ongoing problem with these tractors. Also, The bleed pump and the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter are there for a reason,it is quicker and easier to bleed it if you use them. Good luck.
Oh excellent! I'll give that a try!
I cannot get the bleed pump to release - twist anti clockwise and it should 'unlock' to pump right? Or am I doing something wrong?
Sounds like you are doing it right. You might have to take the whole bleed pump off to get it working. I think that the brakes are the same as IH used in the US. They are a multi disc brake with 3 ball bearings between the plates to spread them. They tend to get gummed up with wear material. It might be worth a try to remove the dust boot off the bottom and spray brake cleaner up inside. If it works it will be a lot easier than taking the whole assembly off.
Brilliant, forty minutes of frustrating spannering and not one swear word. Quite an achievement. 👏👏👏
We came close!
Awesome job mate. I have a B250 with the same blocking tap issue, even have a special made piece of wire in the tool box just for that problem lol I usually unscrew the tap all the way out and push the wire up thru the hole which usually clears it. Solution I’m yet todo to mine is pull the fuel tap/bowl out and add a 1/2 inch piece of tube to it so it can’t draw any gunk of the tank bottom. They are great, strong little tractors.
Oh that's a good plan. I will want to remove the tank at some point cause I need to do the steering
Bro I think all old tractors start like this. I had an old Ford tractor and cub cadet with same start situation...
I have a B414 - maybe you figured it out already but those engines I found always need the use of glow plugs to start. Even in the middle of summer when it's warm out, unless it has been running in the last 2-3 minutes and is still warm, you have to use them.
I always have to use the glow to get it to go!
Well done Lawrie, glad you revived it! Good to solve a problem as you say! 🙏
It was great to get it to run!
What a fantastic video. I love getting old things like this working. Congratulations on getting it working. My guess with the governor is maybe the mechanism is a bit gummed up but I'm not an expert
Could well be
Diesel's suffer from diesel bug due to the bio stuff that they put in the fuel. Usually this can be cured by running a fuel additive in the fuel and giving the engine a bit of hard work. Most tractors old and new can suffer the same issues.
A great video as usual Lawrie, careful thought out problem solving and really felt your passion and happiness come through when she finally showed signs of working. Well done.
Thank you very much! Was so excited!
Some tips i've learn the hard way.
1. Install exthaus flap asap (it's cheaper than rebuilding the engine because of rainwater)
2. Ether doesn't really work with oil bath aircleaner, plenty of it will be captured by the oil.
3. With fuel problems, always start looking from the tank forwards, usually it's just blocked filter with these old things or dirt in the tank.
4. Replace the hose between the filter and injection pump, the inner layer will seperate at some point and make a huge mess.
5. If injector lines are full of air, it will act as a spring and the injectors will not open.
6. Those kind of injection pumps have oil in them, just normal engine oil and needs to be changed every 500hours or so, check manual for more detail.
If you're going to use it for something, add some fuel additive that cleans the injectors, it will make a big difference.
They live under cover, so I'm not too fussed about having exhaust flaps.
It still helped to start it!
Initially I didn't realise it was a fuel issue - but yes, would have made sense. Start at one end and work back!
Worth noting thanks
Hense bleeding it up
That could well be the issue - I'll check that next time I'm there!
With any diesel engine with mechanical injection, use the hand pump to prime the system up to the injection pump.
If you are lazy as me, use compressed air in the tank to push the fuel and air out.
Then loosen the injector lines at the fuel injectors, run the starter until there is no fuel coming out.
Tighten the injector lines and it should start almost immediately.
Doing it like this greatly reduces the wear and tear on the starter motor
The engine is smoking way too much black smoke.
It could be that someone has opened the fuel adjustment srew wayy too much, and thats why its struglin to run smooth.
Or the injector nozzles aren't working properly, they are "pissing" the fuel rather than spraying at fine mist.
There could also just be coldstart button/srew thats stuck at ON position.
I would recommend 5x0.28 nozzles, the original may be 4x0.32 but 5hole ones with smaller openings are better.
New nozzles with adjustment is about 200€ or less depending of the quality, but they are worth it to replace.
Getting the old injectors out of the head may be hard as they can be "a bit" stuck :)
If the injector "nuts" need to be replaced, use the old nut as a cleaning tool, attach a bolt to the nozzle hole, stick it in a drill and stuff the nut full of scotch brite.
It looks like it isnt smoking blue that much, meaning the engine itself isnt burning oil and has good compression and whatnot.
@@NuffMan_ thanks for that, I'll have a look at it and see what can be adjusted!
@@lmm if you can find an PDF of the manual it will be great help
I said that about my Abandoned Fordson that had lived alone in a hedge for 20 years unloved, she started after bleeding the fuel lines, charging the battery and cleaning some terminals.
Amazing isn't it
I like that. I don't know anything about tractors but I still like it.
Same here!
absolutely love your vids, it's great to listen to someone so humble and asking others for advice...i'm hooked
Thank you very much! Glad you're enjoying what we do!
A trick for siphoning out a fuel tank with direct fill neck is take a piece of metal fuel line as long as the tank is deep +6inches (used to aid in positioning) and use that as the siphon pickup tube you can easily position it and being metal it will hold its end below the fuel level.
That's a far better idea
Great work! Great that McCormick is running again! The patina is really nice, you can really see its age. Much better than a restoration where the tractor looks better than when it left the factory.
It's certainly full of character!
@@lmm In any case, that's exactly how I see it.
I am mildly disappointed that you didn't shout "It's ALAAAAIVE!" Lawrie, my man, you're slacking.
Missed an opportunity
@@lmm Definitely. Ah well!
Ace Ventura reference? lol
@@nzo_6543 Sorta! Referencing the same thing that Ace Ventura is referencing - the black-and-white Frankenstein movie.
th-cam.com/video/QuoKNZjr8_U/w-d-xo.html
I just LOVE your demeaner!
Thank you very much
I have a 1959 B275 That was having similar problems. My injection pump one line had no pressure. In the USA it's hard to get this model pump worked on. I finally found a place to rebuild it. I currently have the whole engine torn apart and a new engine rebuild kit.
Hope that it runs well when it's back together again!
It looks like the injection pump is a pneumatic version rather than a mechanical one. The dome to the right of the pump contains a spring loaded diaphragm. The pipe coming out the top of the dome will go round to the inlet manifold and connect in on the engine side of a throttle controlled butterfly. When the throttle is closed (low revs) the vacuum is high which sucks the diaphragm, overcoming the spring and reducing the amount of diesel going into the cylinders. When the throttle is open the vacuum reduces, the diaphragm is pushed by the spring and more diesel is allowed into the cylinders. When the tractor is being started there is no vacuum so plenty of diesel is available for starting. The diaphragms were originally made of leather, at least they were on Simms injection pumps. Yours is probably now perforated which means the diaphragm doesn't close the flow of fuel as it should be causing the engine to revs up, the vacuum then increases because it's sucking in more air through the manifold, this moved the diaphragm which closes the fuel supply down, the engine slows, the vacuum falls and the cycle begins again. At high revs the vacuum is low so the impact of the perforated diaphragm is less significant as the pressure difference on both sides of the diaphragm is less so the hunting is not present but the diesel to air ratio will be a little out.
Replacing the diaphragm is pretty easy. If the original spring looks ok then I would not replace it as the new ones don't seem to have the same tensile strength and will upset the fuel/air balance and will need adjusting by a mechanic who knows how these work.
Hope this helps.
I've replaced the diaphragm before, so I assume it's the spring. Thanks for the information!
Nice Job Lawrie, you mended something!!! Also you look mightily at home sitting on that there tractor!
I've been without a working tractor for too long!
The amount of good advice in these comments is amazing!!!
Glad you enjoyed it and found it useful!
Another brilliant show. Really funny and entertaining.
Lodging a complaint against you, another bloody TRACTOR causing tail backs !!
Soon! Rush hour awaits
Don't know much about this particular tractor or engine, but the old tractor I used to drive on a pig farm did the same thing and I was assured it was normal at idle. Something about having no load on the engine. It gets a blast of fuel, spins up, cuts the fuel and the sheer weight of the flywheel means it takes time to slow down to the point the governor gives it another blast of fuel to stop it from stalling.
Makes sense, it's just a bit rubbish 😂
Great video
Thank you!
brilliant very pleased for you
Me too!
Well done. Maybe check the butterfly valve in the intake manifold. Yes I know it’s a diesel but they have a butterfly valve. If yours is no good let me know as I have a spare unit with manifold!
Great job!
Thank you!
Love the noise even if it is in and out hahaha takes me back to my days on farm with the owners aging fleet of massesys etc but still the best workhorses he ever had.
Great isn't it!
I suggest you remove the filter above the injector pump and clean it, or replace the element, as it’s sure to full of rubbish also, which will restrict the fuel flow
That's a good idea
You can bleed all the injectors at once you don,t need to do one at a time. The surging is caused by the diaphram in the fuel,pump ,a leak or loose conection I think some one has fitted an engine from a B250 as almost all B275 had a rotory DPA pump.I know that some preproduction and early models had the inline pump but I would be surprised if any still existed .You could contact one of the IH tractor clubs for more information,could be valuable!
They were all open, I was just doing them up as they bled up.
I replaced the diaphragm before, and the old one hadn't failed.
Oh really? That's interesting! I'll have to find the things serial number!
They still pop up now and again
Wonderful!
I agree!
Watching from afar the English really do seem to love relaxing a good ol bit o tinkering.
Seen complaint comments on other UK creators channels when they dont show enough of the tinkering.
I don't have the time for it but hope it came to life eventually and everyone had a good time. 😀
Skip to the last 5 mins!
2077: 103 yer old Lawrie died yesterday of a self-ignited fuel air explosive, shortly after saying: "I've doing this for the last 9 decades and never had a problem?" The late Sir Lawrie left 4283 vehicles (not including Locomotives and retired Space Shuttles).
Didn't even make 4.5k :(
@@lmm LOL.Well done. My college roommate rebuilt British autos way back when, He got a Sunbeam Tiger for 350 USD, with a stuck trans. He towed it behind a friend's truck and popped the clutch. sound familiar? Thanks for the good memories, and keep current with your tetanus shots. Updated original. Thanks Sir.
Wow that’s a job love the video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’ve got a 1959 B275 and it kept quitting on me. Turns in there was sludge in the fuel tank. We took it off which is a job in itself. Getting the nut off the steering wheel was hard to get off and then the tank slides up the steering column. They’re a hard Diesel engine design to start with because they aren’t a direct injection diesel. They need the glow plugs working no matter what.
I need to do the steering box, and it's going to be such a pain!
Mine needs *so much* glow to even have a chance of firing up
Excellent
Thank you
Finally the return of tractors
Been a long time coming
The inside of the petrol tanks on some of these old tractors is incredible . I've got a 1948 Ford 8n and it hasn't blocked yet but it looks its got a piece of hose and loads of little stones in it I've resorted to letting the tank dry out and using a shop vac to remove what I could.
That's a good idea!
yay , nicely done Lawrie .. any time i change a fuel filter that sits vertically , i fill it with whatever fuel / injector cleaner i have to hand .. it can't do any harm & it means the starter / fuel pump don't have to work as hard to re-prime .... mind you i guess Lawrie was too excited to go find / buy a bottle of cleaner
I wasn't expecting it to go!
Even with its rust and dents its a beautiful machine
It's got character
been missing videos on your tractors!
Trying to make amends!
Another great video. Congratulations on getting JEB (sort of) operational again. Who needs brakes?
Having watched pretty much everything on the channel I must say I'm very impressed with what you guys are prepared to take on. However, I do, as an old git who's a lot less immortal than I used to be, occasionally find myself screaming inwardly "Eye protection!" or "Gloves!" or whatever.
Thank you - I'm most impressed!
Yes, we're getting better at it!
Thank you - I'm most impressed!
Yes, we're getting better at it!
Given how many things you have going on right now, and not just projects but tractor projects, I didn’t expect to see Jeb out anytime soon. I’m sure you will have to do this again though until you get that fuel tank cleaned out.
It wasn't on the cards, but I felt inspired!
I'll do a proper job when I actually get round to restoring it
super helpful on these one internationals look up some adjustable podger spanners i keep a pair in mine. pointy end helps alot with aligning implement's and things adjustable end lets you spanner and hit things. when i first got mine *International 785xl* same idea only bigger. the tank had 2 inches of Diesel slime in the bottom ended up having to clean and flush the whole thing.
As others have said the taps on these are known to clog up. you can add an Electric pump inline before the mechanical one just to help it along abit as well.
When I eventually get round to fixing this the tank will come off and get cleaned
my guess is theres usually a rubber diaphram in the govenor that perrishes. it leads to the hunting issue. replacements can be still got
I actually replaced that way back, but no luck
Back in the days when i was a farmer i learned to drive on a B275....happy days father had 3 of them ...ps this was the 60 s....👍👍👍pps gord bless easystart🤣🤣🤣
They're not bad little things
Always look at fuel filters first or gauze strainer in tank . Throw the ether into the neatest bin if you need starting aid use crc , wd40 ect it is less explosive
I've heard WD is a good alternative.
I'm not a fan of easy start, but wanted to see if it would actually go
Easy start can over time glaze the engine bores. WD40 is a safer bet or in petrol engines a small amount of fresh petrol into the carburettor.
And do not forget to smear a lot of grease on the clutch.
Worth looking at
Sounds smoother and quietier than some modern diesels
It's not bad once it's going
It's alive!
I was very excited!
Try using A wire to clean out the clogged line port with it.
I found air to be quite effective
That revving by itself might be due to low level of oil in the pump, had the same issue with 2 of my tractors and pouring about 0.1-0.2l of oil in it solved that issue.
A brilliant video, gteat entertainment.
Glad you enjoyed it
The easiest way to clear the fuel line from the tank is to back flush it with an air line. Once you have done that drain the fuel and clean out the tank!
Good job dude :)
Thanks!
@@lmm :)
It was great to see this old tractor bursting into life. With enough work, this tractor would be in show condition.
One day she will be
One day she will be
i think it is called ghosting the governor is revving engine to keep it going usually that's down to idle issue or not enough fuel is going into engine for idling if possible may try adjusting idle fuel mix
Possible indeed
Well done! Meanwhile, I have to fix my Diesel on the weekend. Clean the EGR valve and remove the codes from the ECU via OBD2. That's progress, that is!
I'll plug the ob2 reader into this, see what it says!
@@lmm 🤣🤣🤣
Add some quality diesel fuel additive as well and give your car a Italian tune. That can sort out issues
@@bentullett6068 Thanks for the tips! I can't really complain, it's done 185000 km, the last 35k in my ownership. I always use premium diesel. When I got it, the dipstick was broken and the previous owner had overfilled the oil by 3l! That triggered an EGR fault, but the correct dipstick and oil level and clearing the codes madethe code go away and it has run great ever since.. Luckily, no blown seals.
By running it up through the fuel tank fuel line inlet tube to unblock it with. Something like bailing wire.,or A coat hanger that is metal.
I'll have a go!
Amazing how tractors will run on ancient fuel. You have a lot of work to do on this one. So glad it was only a primary blockage. But the whole fuel system needs an overhaul beginning with that rusty sludgy fuel tank. As you said, governor might need some work too. Could just be springs or corrosion should be obvious. Can you still get parts?
Some yes, some no from a quick look. It'll get sorted when I come to overhaul it
New tractors can be usually a bit more fussy due to modern electronic injection systems. I have worked in farm machinery dealerships and its not uncommon for modern tractors to have a mid year fuel filter change as they will usually end up with the dregs from the fuel tank at the farm if they have been filled when the fuel tank is empty. Modern diesel also has bio fuel added which goes off and causes a issue know as diesel bug.
cool !
I agree
Good
Thanks
It's not really necessary to remove the fuel tank. Flush the fuel tank with detergent, then dry the interior with industrial papers towels, using the airline to blow the towels around & pick up any residual dirt. Remove paper towels & refill with fresh diesel or filtered old diesel & use a diesel bug treatment as modern diesel loves to absorb water. It's the bane of diesel boats.
The tank needs to be removed to allow access to the steering box which needs surgery, so not the end of the world to remove!
Proper job lawrie ooooare
Thank you
What a shame you didn't flush the tank out at the same time and screw a 2" stand pipe in the top of the tap, I think you should put a new fuel filter on soon. It won't last long before it plugs up again. Enjoyed the video though. ps check the butterfly in the inlet manifold.
I need to lift the tank to address the steering issue, so I'll clean it out proper then!
Great stuff Lawrie 👍👍.
I must have a look at my mates Dodge tractor which seems to have a similar fuel issue. I’m going to send him the link to this. It might inspire him 😉
Sovvagn goes in for her contrôle technique tomorrow. Wish us luck 🍀
I'm sure it'll be fine - good luck none the less!
@@lmm just got back. Went like a dream! Even my masking tape adjustment on the headlights was fine on their measuring equipment, so thank goodness no need to change my xenon headlamps (500€ each!) for LHD either!
Just a tip for you to try. Get some lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and drain out the fuel again and pour in a couple gallons or in your country liters of the thinner. Let it sit for awhile then use a long wand air gun be excellent if you have one with a suction tube blast through the mix and stir it around the tank. Drain out the crappy mix and flush it with some diesel fuel replace the valve and add in fresh fuel you should be good to go. Remember to add some diesel fuel stabilizer to the fuel and avoid that sludge problem again. If she's still smoking a bit more than it should add some Marvel's mystery oil to the fuel and run a tank of it through it should help clean up the injection system or use transmission oil. Both will help it .
When I come to restore the thing, I'll do that!
Reminds me of this old Ford we had with a front bucket
Oh really?
@@lmm 1950ish Ford 8n...
Are you going to use an additive to kill thr bugs that grow on the bio diesel?
Really want a tractor now
They're great fun!
You have a priming plunger on that engine, always start at the tank tap and fuel condition
Is that the hook thing on the pump?
Cause I cannot get it to 'unlock' to pump
@@lmm Yes, release the top lock nut and it will pump up and down My BTD6 Drotts got the same idea . I am on a railway loco on Thursday PWM 651. I am restoring an ex British Rail traxcavator th-cam.com/video/Mr7hxNQ0nAo/w-d-xo.html
@@lmm yes that is the fuel primer it should unscrew like a normal thread and then you should be able to manually lift it up and down to pump the fuel and bleed it
@@danwaters115 that's what I thought, but it doesn't seem to unlock itself. I'll have to further play
The glass bowl is a water trap so you can see the amount of water in it and empty it
And any particulates should sink to the bottom.
fuel pump timing may be slightly out. Will also help it to start better if that's the case. if not governor spring caput
I'm wondering on the spring. It's geared timing I think, so unlikely to be timing?
hey lmm ! thanks for the videos and return to the wrenches lol... next time you run into this ...try some compressed air into the petcock ...
Yes that would likely work
@@lmm it would quickly dislodge blocked inlet filter in tank or petcock ...at least enough to facilitate tank draining and let you troubleshoot ...its a common trick for cars that regularly clog fuel filters /socks then stop running...its easier than dropping the tank to see if that is the issue . im thinking its the governor as well ...possibly a cleaning will fix the surgeing but more likely its worn or needs a spring replacement .... if it was a gas engine i would say check the fuel filters
She might want some hard work to sort the running issue, many tractors engines suffer from not being worked but once given a bit of stick the blockages can clear, alternatively add a quality diesel additive to the fuel.
Me and my dad would like a old tractor again as we had to reluctantly sell my Grandads restored Fergie around 2009/10 as he was no longer with us and my Nan was downsizing homes. I think if we were to get a tractor it would either be a 1980/90's John Deere or a Ford tractor.
Always sad to have to let one go. A hard days work will break it it fix it!
@@lmm maybe it will break it maybe it won't. You don't need to go to the point of severely putting huge strain on the engine. Possibly occasionally tow Jupiter out of the shed with Jeb, that should give the engine some work.
First bleed it at the filter then bleed it at the pump .then bleed injectors .then she will start . Don’t use easy start you will damage your heater plugs . Bruce Shetland
That wouldn't have worked as the blockage was at the tank.
For your next tractor how about one of the ones DRS were selling off? 109 tons of EE finest
I dream of such a thing
What is the Australian word for the magic stuff 🤔 😅 🤣
Laurie vs. Stubborn Tractor! Not broken now!
I'm surprised too!
I have plenty of experience with IH equipment but not diesels. I'll take a swing at the surging problem, my guess is the timing gears are worn out and have too much backlash. One way to rule out the governor is to put the engine under load at a set throttle position and see if it falls flat on its face. if the governor is still attempting to work, it should add fuel and keep the engine running.
Like dropping the clutch in top gear?
Did that and it coped
@@lmm hmmm... May want to look into the timing gears then. Could also try a thicker engine oil in hopes that it takes out some of the internal slop in the engine.
Looking back I missed the point your fiddle around and something special happens with your small tool.......?
Joking aside, you and your friends brilliant. Keep up the brilliant work
Sounds like a carry on film
You do sod about Lawrie! Never had a problem with my Inter A414.
Perhaps it's a better tractor.
I did look at buying one from a farm, but he wanted big money.
I had the same problem with a Kubota tractor I bought and it was only a 1994 model. Half an inch or more of mud in the bottom of the tank, in the end I had to remove the tank and pressure wash it out. No idea how the previous owners had got so much muck into the tank as the tractor had spent its entire life on a caravan park shunting caravans and cutting grass, from what was in the tank it looked more like they had used it for earth moving by stickin the earth into the tank. The black cylinder on the side of the injector pump is a hand operated primer pump used to fill the pumps gallery first. The lumpy idle is down to the pneumatic governor, either dirt in the vacum pipes or the leather bellows is hard or punctured.
I was wondering how far down the comments till some one got it right. Primer looks like an old bosch style, some have strainer in the main pump as well. The old simms injection pumps often had leaking rubber type bellows also. I always remove injector return to tank line first. A lot will be learned from what is happening there. The more connections you loosen the more new problems that can be started.
Is a box end wrench still a "spanner"? It doesn't span, it encircles.
Ratchet spanner, yes!
Always begin whith the simple things.. 😉
Is it getting fuel?
No. No its not 😂
Sound like it down a injector running on 3 cylinders that's the lupin sound you can hear
Ahhh, that would make sense with the poor idle too
Have a look at Lord Muck, he's a bit of a tractor ace and likes a bit of "Cosby" to get engines going.
He does some good stuff
Do you need to adjust the timing belt? If this thing even has a timing belt.
I believe its on timing gears.
throwing a guess in the mix low fuel has sucked up dirt from tank and glogged up fuel pump and possibly fuel injectors
Quite possible, though this is as good as its ever run for me
@@lmm maybe worth putting in a inline fuel filter,easily cut into pipe and should help you see any signs of dirt/rust coming out of tank
Because of the amount of fuel leaking out of the pipe on the bottom of the pump (which is your oil level) it means that the pistons that pressurises the fuel are worn and so the fuel is leaking past them so the governor is trying to over come the lack of pressure making it hunt all of the time so really the pump will need rebuilding but also check the pipes on the back of the pump which go up the the intake manifold as I have seen them block up with rubbish making them hint too but 9/10 it is the pump that’s the problem, cheers
I thought that pipe was the overflow, which was a result of the thing going wide open every few seconds
@@lmm that should be filled up with oil to that level as if it was over full it would just drip out it is ok if about an egg cup full of diesel leaks past every 20hrs of running but when it’s a constant drip it means the pump is badly worn due to lack of oil changes in the bottom as it only holds about a cup of oil and it usually leaks out if you are not careful, cheers
Is everything over there a diesel? I got in a Ford 2n to do some work on today. Nice old machines.
Petrol was used on older stuff, but diesel has always been popular
@@lmm Maybe it wasn't feasible in the northeast US. Don't see too many small diesels out here.
Hi Lawrie it's hunting a bit
Just a little...
I’d suspect that has a split in the governor diaphragm it might be an early one with a pneumatic governor, or there will be airpipes from the intake manifold or air cleaner to the governor these olives might be worn (put yer hand round it n if stops surging that’s the problem) if it’s a mechanical governor on the injection pump you need a trip to an injection pump specialist , new governor diaphragms should be able to be found on fleabay lol
I've replaced the diaphragm sadly, and it made no difference.
@@lmm looks like it’ll be a trip to mr “diesel injection specialist “ in its future for the injection pump
@@Jim-McKechnie my wallet cowered at the thought
Think the govoner spring tension is low
That makes sense