Sail Life Shop US: (Use this if you want items shipped from the US) shop.spreadshirt.com/saillife/ Sail Life Shop EU: (Use this if you want items shipped from Europe) shop.spreadshirt.dk/saildotlife/
For that gap mentioned in between the frame and the fairing, why not wrap the frame in paper tape, then pour some fairing compound on where it would sit, and later, when it's cured, pull it out using some pieces of wire pre-positioned from earlier?
Match the hatches with the saloon hatch, despite the extra work, I think you’ll like the results better. Thanks for all you do, we love following your journey!
Agreed, they will look much better and done the Mads way they won't need to be redone for a very long time. I'd be concerned that those store bought ones would fail at some point.
@ 5:25 in the video you did a great job at setting up the shot to have no tracks in the icy water. Don't think we don't notice all the hard work you put into these vids Mads. I've said it before but your my most looked forward to video of the week. Thank you very much Derek
Man, one week in L.A and Mads comes home depressed. He’s still one of the happiest guys I know, but still :) Glad you’re back to posting videos, i missed you.
Mads -- here is how you have messed with our life. Every weekend wife and I can't get Saturday morning started without digesting, discussing, dissecting what we learned from your latest video -- but that is not all. Before we can move on to buying our live-aboard boat, we need to finish renovating our 1894 home for sale (yes, in US 1894 is pretty darn old). As we work on our renovations the phrase that keeps coming up whenever we get to a problem is "you know what Mads would do ...." and we are pushed by your example to go the extra mile to do the job right. Your attitude toward problem solving and doing-the-job-right is an inspiration. Thanks. Most of the time ....
Dude, you're commentary cracks me up unexpectedly sometimes... "The astute might have noted the elevated water level..." (trudging through shin-deep lake) Not many things surprise me with laughter like that. Thanks very much, buddy. :) ~Ben
Mads, go for the teak homemade trim. It looks great on the other hatch and your diy skills can make it look really good. That plastic trim kit won’t lo9k good at all.
I like your idea, Tony. You can be certain that there is a craftsman who will custom make the trim for less than $100. Maybe a regular carpenter instead of someone who specializes in marine projects since the word marine adds like 50% to the cost
Agree, also, I was not a fan of the screen not being totally removable. There are a lot of times I don't want there to be a screen at all on the hatch.
You can also add your own screen which can be fitted to the homemade trim if you so choose. Very handy if you ever see yourself getting bored with the high latitudes and going sailing in the tropics.
Enjoying watching Mads feign disappointment at not being able to use the trim kits whilst thinking woohoo I get to design and build pretty dang spiffy hatch trim kits. :)
Please let us know how professionally Vetus respond to their appalling quality lapse - it would steer us all in the right direction when next considering Vetus. A teak or mahogany moulding would look right but take a close look at any potential for leaks. Glad your back and look forward to next week (and seeing the highly professional customer orientated response from Vetus!).
Last sunday I simpley stayed in bed, no reasen to get out of bed when there was no video from you. Please dont do that again ;-) very pleased your back :-)
So good to have you back, Mads! I'm glad you introduced Ava's name to us - I totally respect that you're giving her some privacy. Nice to meet you if you're reading this, Ava!
Match the wooden trim in the saloon, IMHO. I follow several TH-cam channels but look forward to yours the most. I don’t want a boat but enjoy tagging along.
Hi Mads, Welcome back. Great video as always. To empty the diesel tank on your boat you can do as I did in October in mine. Use a longer hose guided through the log hole in the hull to jerry cans on ground level. No electric pump needed..... taraaaaan And yes, I think the teak trim would look much nicer... All the best, Carlos
Are there any other brands of trim kit that might have a better customer rating? If not, I would think that matching the hatch opening with all of the others would seem to be the “spiffiest” option. I like the way the old mahogany trim looks on the other existing hatches, looks better than that cheap plastic. I know that means more work, but that has never stopped you in the past.
I totally agree. Those cheap plastic trims fall way short of the high quality work that you have put into Athena so far. I think you will be disappointed in them for ever more, long after the time and effort they saved you has been forgotten. Custom make teak or mahogany trims yourself. You and Athena deserve it.
WELCOME BACK!! I hope your get away was truly relaxing and enjoyable. Might I suggest looking for a drill powered pump? here in the US they are available at any hardware store and even some grocery stores. They have standard water hose fittings and a shaft sticking out that you connect the drill motor to. Very simple and inexpensive. For the port lights I'd check my options with a camper supply (caravan supply) store first but I really like having a screen available just in case you find yourself in a warm climate with pesky bugs, but also if you can change the screen with (or ad to it) a clear panel it should really help in retaining heat. I'm sure what ever you decide will be great as you've never failed yet in impressing me with ingenuity and shear perseverance. 😎
Yes, add a small “lip” around the upper part of the trim to allow a small frame to rest against. That way you can make a “screen door” to keep the bugs out...and there are bugs in Northern climates too. I lived in Alaska for five years, believe me, there are a lot of bugs up there in the summer.
Welcome back sir! Congrats on the new love life and back to work as well. Chance I might be in LA area around March. Would love to meet you in person! My new boat won't be ready til early July so I need your vids to keep me going this winter!
I love these videos! I am sorry you were not able to do much this week...well, with the exception of making it snow in your cabin...but regardless, you count on me and numerous others, to be waiting anxiously for your next episode!
I like the idea of having screens on the hatches. You'll appreciate that when you start sailing in the tropics. But the wood trim looks very nice too. I am sure that whatever you do will be perfect!
Mads, consider making you hatch opening slightly larger so that your "teak trim" can go all the way up to the level of the hatch opening. You could use an 18 mm thick piece of teak and use your router to cut a notch for the hatch to fit into. I would strongly recommend that you take the trim to the top of the hatch opening, and let the hatch sit down in it. Having one solid piece of wood that goes up under the hatch lip will keep water from finding its way into you new core. It you only go up to the bottom edge of the hatch you are creating a trap for water, and you really don't want that. Just a thought. Take care
You put so much time and effort in making your boat near perfect I am glad to see you didn't use those sub-par trim kits. I am very surprised Vetus would even market that kit; it was terrible.
Sail Life. Hoping you feel better soon. Jet lag is rough, and feels worse when you're lovely lady is not there when you get home. Much thanks for toughing it out to make today's video.
Loving the extra thought of not walking through the ice to set up the camera! I expected nothing less from you ;) As for the trim, mahogany every day, if you don't it'll only bug you till you do it right. Ps, Tee-shirt on my Christmas list...
Mads, welcome back online, you were missed. I have a suggestion for the trim but it is a ton of work, though the finish look is perfect. Use wood like you showed, I like Teak but up to you, but on the edge against the hatch opening you put a rabbit so the hatch aluminum can actually slide into it, this way you can control how much aluminum you want showing, can make it perfect and solid but it makes it a lot harder to actually do. I used ink along the bottom of the aluminum to transfer a lign to the edge of the wood and created a rabbit the same thickness as the aluminum to slide into. The finish look is exactly what I was going for but now in hindsight it is a lot more work taking care maintenance wise. The sanding and oiling then buffing it but if you use a different wood might be able to avoid that. Just a thought but I am sure with your intelligence and skill you can pretty it up without an issue. I can't believe you just getting snow, you not much lower south than we here in Canada and we have had snow for almost a month and temps are hitting the mid -20's now.
I would say to try and match the existing trim for continuity throughout the boat. It also seems like a less exhaustive project for time/effort. Looking forward to next week.
God evening Mads Nice seeing you back in sunny and warm Denmark, you are living in the wrong end off Denmark, you should live in south off Denmark:-) The hatchet shut be like the one in the salon As always you made my Sunday evening complete :-) :-)
Great work Mads. Digging your videos! On the topic of trip kits - what sinks that one for me is the fold down screen. i think that would be a pain in the butt and get broken almost immediately. Sliding combo bug screen and blackout blinds are available and seem like a better option (though may be more expensive).
I'm a huge fan of the scenic route, but of course, I get to watch... you have to do lol. My suggestion about the hatches is to go with whatever solution is guaranteed to last through years of cruising abuse. Anything you fabricate yourself will turn out looking good.
Hi. Whilst watching your latest video we saw you open the funky siphon do-hicky. I used one myself a couple of times and they work really well and I think I can suggest a possible solution to the diesel tank height! If you take out the speed log, you could push the pipe out through the hull to get the end below the tank height! You'd need to extend the tube I guess, and place a suitable receptacle underneath, but I think it would work great! We love your videos. Jonny & Ana.
I think the teak or mahagony trim would be fine for the trim work. I think when the boat is done, you won't notice it at all anyway. Because you are building it you know of any slight imperfections that nobody else would notice. So I wouldn't spend so much time on it. Besides who looks up when walking through a boat??? I bought one of those syphones almost 15 years ago at a country fair from the guy who claimed to be the original inventer. I've been using the same one all this time and it still works perfectly. Since then, I've purchased several more. I paid 6.95 for my first one with a much longer hose. I think I paid almost 20 bucks for the last one I bought but it's still worth the money when the alternative is a mouth full of gas or diesel! I keep one on the boat, one at the workshop and one in the Jeep in case I run out of fuel somewhere. They are great, much like your videos!!!!
Make a trim from a long piece of thin veneer to fit behind the aluminium rail. So that condenswater can drip into the boat instead of wetting up the plywood core again. The connection with te liner can be made from teak/mahogany in an L-shape. Be sure to make a routed copy of the alu frame to use as an exactly fitting template.
As the old saying goes”if you want something done right you must do it your self” send that junk trim kit back! As for what I would do I would watch the video your going to be making then try my self after 😂 great video!!!
for the trim use the trim kit, looks like there is excess outer lip you could trim of to make it fit. The time saving will be huge well worth the cost. If you run out of projects (Ha!) when you have the liner in you can make some wood trim . Before you worry about the trim though how will you finish the liner? will it hard board or soft foam backed plastic you can wrap around the edges . then you might need different trim options. cheers warren
With your jiggle siphon, If you got another longer (quite long actually) length of plastic or vinyl tube/hose and a double barbed fitting that would fit both hoses, you could join the two and run the outlet up and out the companionway, over the side and into the catch vessel on the ground. The siphon doesn't care what's in the middle, it only cares that the outlet is lower than the suction. The ground is much lower than the bilge when on the hard. It would be wise to have a helper or be sure that the catch tank is definitely bigger than the source. If having to switch catch tanks, pinching the hose will stop it long enough to switch and off you go again. If the outlet is unmanned, be sure to secure the hose to the vessel. a litre makes a big puddle when only a mm or two thick on the groundwater. Alternatively, you could run the hose out through a through-hull and avoid the up and over.
Hi Mads. To transfer the diesel use a cheap 12v caravan submersible water pump. It will work very well. I used to work for a caravan company and our diesel heater pump in the workshop was a standard caravan sub' pump. I worked there for 10 years and we never had to change it. I think a wood trim round the hatches will look real nice. regards from the UK
How ever you do the trim around the hatches, i would recommend making it so water can not be trapped around the hatch. I like the fairing idea of whats there.
Mads, I think making your own trim to match what Athena already has will the most pleasing (to the eye and to you). If you decide to have flush screens (which is a great idea in the tropics), use a removable hinge or just tabs all around so the screens easily come completely off. When you are passing stores, sail-bags, gear, or people through any of those hatches having the screen hanging from flimsy hinges is an accident waiting to happen.
as a few people have already mentioned, I think make it like the other hatch with a trim of teak or mahogany. it will not only look better it will look like a factory job... which adds to the spiffiness of the over all project... :)
Hi Mads. We replaced 16 hatches on our boat with Lewmar's. Same as the ones that came out. I looked at alternatives but the quality wasn't there. There trim kits may fit, as a lot of these hatches are the same size.
Even though its more work, I would vote to make it or find better production ones. Even if you decide to use these, as cheap as they look they would probably break in the first year of service. Then your somewhere exotic with broken trim to repair. Don't waste your sailing time on something you could do the right way now while you have the wintertime to care for it. Best of luck. Love the channel
Plastic trim kits fade, turn yellow. I have just ripped out two types. Replacing them with wet wood laminate, formed to shape with a trim. You will regret the cheap flims things. As for Tshirts, Australia is another delivery zone. :)
Since you asked... ;-) I'd fair and paint the hatch area with the same white pain used throughout the interior. As for the gap, you'll have bedding compound or caulking in there anyway. At the bottom I'd use a bit of trim, stained and/or varnished to match the rest of the trim aboard. I don't think I'd use bright finished trim all the way up. Having the painted part would be consistent with the look in the rest of the boat.
Hey Mads, I hope this may help. I used to work at Lewmar, so know a bit about hatches!! Vetus copied/matched the cut-out dimensions of Lewmar's hatches when they launched these Magnus products. What you have there is the equivalent of a Lewmar Ocean Hatch Size 30. The cut-out for your Vetus hatch is listed as 457x327 with corner radii of 43mm. The cut-out for the Lewmar version is the same 457x327 with corner radii of 42.5mm (it may need to be opened up a bit to suit the trim - I think 4mm to the sides and 2mm to the radii) Lewmar's trim-kits are much nicer (I say that completely impartially....those Vetus ones look awful!!). They have a textured finish to the plastic, so you have no nasty mould marks. The fly screens also clip in with small turn-clips rather than being permanently fixed on a riveted hinge (though you can hinge them too if you wish). They can suit up to 72mm thick deck, with still sliding in under the flange. They are available in both white and an ivory/cream colour and if my memory serves there are sometimes even deeper versions available than 72mm deck thickness, if at some point a boat builder required that...you would need to call Lewmar to see if there is a deeper version for the size 30 hatch on the system, it won't be published anywhere. Hope that helps, they are a much higher quality product than the plastic one you have there, and as you say will save you an awful lot of work (and provide easy flyscreen installation when you need it). Feel free to PM me if you want some more info.
For the trim I would use straight mahogany with a rabbet on the top back side that is equal in depth to the thickness of the hatch flange. That way the trim can overlap the hatch flange while remaining flat in the hatch opening.
Firs, at good seal to protect the core is important. A wood trim frame that has a hinged screen with latches and matches the inner surface of the hatch. A ~0.7mm white plastic strip can cover the interior surface of both. You can even have a lip to cover the inner edge of the strip.
I once emptied my watertank by putting the drain through the opening of the speed censor. Works probably the same for a dieseltank and could save you the cost of an electric pump, plus saves you the effort of carrying the jerrycans out of your boat (if you intend to do that).
Hi Mads... Just want ti say that your vids are always great.... About the hatch trims, go with your drawing number two... Seems like a good solution to me... Athena is way to good for that plastic crap... Keep up with the good work!!!
Mads don't ask me for advice on the hatch trim. Every task I have on my boat seems to go backwards at high speed. Your work is excellent and always so thought out. I trust it will look spiffy as usual.
Mads... with all the time and effort you are putting into this boat do not cut corners on one of the most visible details of the boat. Do the mahogany trims, but make sure it doesn't retain water or allows it to go behind the liner
Yeah, I think making some trim to cover the edge of the hatches is the answer. I bet you'll figure a way to do fairly quick and easy. Your Mads, the wonder DIY guy! ;-)
Wood trim is your best choice providing you do upkeep,if it's hardwood just oil and it will stay good and not stain from humidity,being a window humidity is a factor
I believe your adding trim to the ports is the best option to end up "Pretty Darn Spiffy" But your handy work on Athena would suggest you are capable of either fix.
Glad you scrapped the hatch trim kit. Second idea of putting wood to line hatch opening is much better. I would make the wood as thin as possible to have the hatch opening as big and as snag free as possible. Cheers!
For your hatches, I would use the trim kit that you had purchased to create a plug, so that you can make the hatches in fibre glass. Also invest in some dust sheets, they cut down the amount of dust in the rest of your boat and they don't cost much Lastly - With regard to draining the diesel tank, it does not matter how long the pipe is as long as the bottom, is lower than the top, so the pipe can go outside, to a can on the floor which is lower than your tank
Regarding your hatch trim, I'd go ahead and make wood trim and a wood screen covering as well. I'd also make them to match the existing trim in the other hatch, so I wouldn't have to redo that one as well. For the screens, I'd dado the inner edge of the wood frame and use that as the location for the screen and scribe, with the dado just large enough to contain it. I'd also use the copper or bronze screening for it because it's both sturdy and corrosion resistant. The fiberglass screening would be my second choice, for corrosion resistance and inexpensive nature.
The speed of transfer with a syphon, in addition to the diameter of the hose, is determined by the height difference between source and destination. So if your transfer is too fast then reduce the height difference!
What about using a very thin strip of veneer around the inside of the hatch openings to cover all the layers of wood and glass? It would add very little thickness and give a nice dressed finish. You can even buy it with heat glue already applied so you just apply it with a clothes iron. Then for the bottom corner you could use some pre-milled 90 degree corner trim, either in white headliner color or mahogany.
Sail Life Shop US:
(Use this if you want items shipped from the US)
shop.spreadshirt.com/saillife/
Sail Life Shop EU:
(Use this if you want items shipped from Europe)
shop.spreadshirt.dk/saildotlife/
Sail Life what's the price of the polo t shirts in large ??
the cork is for your large fill hole in your diesel tank
We still need a "Pretty dang spiffy" shirt. :) I'd totally rock a shirt that said that.
Bigger logos on those t-shirts would be awesome, they'd be able to be readable from just beyond hailing distance :-)
For that gap mentioned in between the frame and the fairing, why not wrap the frame in paper tape, then pour some fairing compound on where it would sit, and later, when it's cured, pull it out using some pieces of wire pre-positioned from earlier?
Match the hatches with the saloon hatch, despite the extra work, I think you’ll like the results better. Thanks for all you do, we love following your journey!
I agree!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :) Sounds like a good plan to me!
Agreed, they will look much better and done the Mads way they won't need to be redone for a very long time. I'd be concerned that those store bought ones would fail at some point.
This is a great idea...It will add continuity for the whole boat :)
@ 5:25 in the video you did a great job at setting up the shot to have no tracks in the icy water. Don't think we don't notice all the hard work you put into these vids Mads. I've said it before but your my most looked forward to video of the week.
Thank you very much
Derek
Yup, and I think the old tracks are to the right in picture… Never the less a good planning!
Man, one week in L.A and Mads comes home depressed. He’s still one of the happiest guys I know, but still :)
Glad you’re back to posting videos, i missed you.
Mads -- here is how you have messed with our life. Every weekend wife and I can't get Saturday morning started without digesting, discussing, dissecting what we learned from your latest video -- but that is not all. Before we can move on to buying our live-aboard boat, we need to finish renovating our 1894 home for sale (yes, in US 1894 is pretty darn old). As we work on our renovations the phrase that keeps coming up whenever we get to a problem is "you know what Mads would do ...." and we are pushed by your example to go the extra mile to do the job right. Your attitude toward problem solving and doing-the-job-right is an inspiration. Thanks. Most of the time ....
Dude, you're commentary cracks me up unexpectedly sometimes...
"The astute might have noted the elevated water level..." (trudging through shin-deep lake)
Not many things surprise me with laughter like that.
Thanks very much, buddy. :)
~Ben
I died laughing as well. Only Mads can make a video about a hatch trim kit interesting... Love this channel.
Mads, go for the teak homemade trim. It looks great on the other hatch and your diy skills can make it look really good. That plastic trim kit won’t lo9k good at all.
Plus plastic tends to go bad around these kinds of things, teak at least looks good right up until the very end of its operational life time.
I like your idea, Tony. You can be certain that there is a craftsman who will custom make the trim for less than $100. Maybe a regular carpenter instead of someone who specializes in marine projects since the word marine adds like 50% to the cost
Agree, also, I was not a fan of the screen not being totally removable. There are a lot of times I don't want there to be a screen at all on the hatch.
You can also add your own screen which can be fitted to the homemade trim if you so choose. Very handy if you ever see yourself getting bored with the high latitudes and going sailing in the tropics.
Mads said he's going to have it custom made in the last video. Maybe he'll put that little option in there
Enjoying watching Mads feign disappointment at not being able to use the trim kits whilst thinking woohoo I get to design and build pretty dang spiffy hatch trim kits. :)
Well... Woke up the baby laughing at the Christmas music over the freshly falling snow...
Hehe, sorry about that :)
Christmas music during the routing of the hatch made me laugh without warning and I spit some sandwich on the monitor.
Please let us know how professionally Vetus respond to their appalling quality lapse - it would steer us all in the right direction when next considering Vetus. A teak or mahogany moulding would look right but take a close look at any potential for leaks. Glad your back and look forward to next week (and seeing the highly professional customer orientated response from Vetus!).
LOL, literally, when the music and snow scene came on. Merry Christmas Mads!
I got a shirt! I always wanted one. Thanks for sharing that link. Have a great rest of your week. ( Austin, Texas )
Great to have you back Mads. I'm happy your trip to California was successful in all ways. The snow router was a great laugh.
Last sunday I simpley stayed in bed, no reasen to get out of bed when there was no video from you. Please dont do that again ;-) very pleased your back :-)
So good to have you back, Mads! I'm glad you introduced Ava's name to us - I totally respect that you're giving her some privacy. Nice to meet you if you're reading this, Ava!
California is rocking and I am glad for you.
Match the wooden trim in the saloon, IMHO.
I follow several TH-cam channels but look forward to yours the most. I don’t want a boat but enjoy tagging along.
Router snow! Clever. Merry Christmas.
great to hear you had a nice time in California Mads. Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
Love the videos. The trim kit was crap! Your work is much better. Glad you enjoyed LA, Thanks again for all the videos.
Hi Mads,
Welcome back. Great video as always. To empty the diesel tank on your boat you can do as I did in October in mine. Use a longer hose guided through the log hole in the hull to jerry cans on ground level. No electric pump needed..... taraaaaan
And yes, I think the teak trim would look much nicer...
All the best, Carlos
Nice to have you back,
Great to see you back.
Are there any other brands of trim kit that might have a better customer rating? If not, I would think that matching the hatch opening with all of the others would seem to be the “spiffiest” option. I like the way the old mahogany trim looks on the other existing hatches, looks better than that cheap plastic. I know that means more work, but that has never stopped you in the past.
You're right I should go for the solution that will make me happy in the long-term :)
I totally agree. Those cheap plastic trims fall way short of the high quality work that you have put into Athena so far. I think you will be disappointed in them for ever more, long after the time and effort they saved you has been forgotten. Custom make teak or mahogany trims yourself. You and Athena deserve it.
I agree, Mahagoni trim lasts longer and looks better.
Ditto
Agreed
Excellent your back great viewing vids . Looking forward to your next mads
WELCOME BACK!! I hope your get away was truly relaxing and enjoyable. Might I suggest looking for a drill powered pump? here in the US they are available at any hardware store and even some grocery stores. They have standard water hose fittings and a shaft sticking out that you connect the drill motor to. Very simple and inexpensive. For the port lights I'd check my options with a camper supply (caravan supply) store first but I really like having a screen available just in case you find yourself in a warm climate with pesky bugs, but also if you can change the screen with (or ad to it) a clear panel it should really help in retaining heat. I'm sure what ever you decide will be great as you've never failed yet in impressing me with ingenuity and shear perseverance. 😎
Absolutly make your own from teak or mahogany, inset a cut out for some premade screens and shades.
Sounds like a good plan to me :)
Yes, add a small “lip” around the upper part of the trim to allow a small frame to rest against. That way you can make a “screen door” to keep the bugs out...and there are bugs in Northern climates too. I lived in Alaska for five years, believe me, there are a lot of bugs up there in the summer.
Welcome back sir! Congrats on the new love life and back to work as well. Chance I might be in LA area around March. Would love to meet you in person! My new boat won't be ready til early July so I need your vids to keep me going this winter!
Looking forward to the California Meetup.
Welcome back Mads. Just got 12 inches of snow and just got the power back on after 36 hours here in north Georgia. Any where that is warm sounds good.
I love these videos! I am sorry you were not able to do much this week...well, with the exception of making it snow in your cabin...but regardless, you count on me and numerous others, to be waiting anxiously for your next episode!
Thank you so much! :)
I like the idea of having screens on the hatches. You'll appreciate that when you start sailing in the tropics. But the wood trim looks very nice too. I am sure that whatever you do will be perfect!
Excellent touch with the Christmas music!
Mads, consider making you hatch opening slightly larger so that your "teak trim" can go all the way up to the level of the hatch opening. You could use an 18 mm thick piece of teak and use your router to cut a notch for the hatch to fit into. I would strongly recommend that you take the trim to the top of the hatch opening, and let the hatch sit down in it. Having one solid piece of wood that goes up under the hatch lip will keep water from finding its way into you new core. It you only go up to the bottom edge of the hatch you are creating a trap for water, and you really don't want that. Just a thought. Take care
You put so much time and effort in making your boat near perfect I am glad to see you didn't use those sub-par trim kits. I am very surprised Vetus would even market that kit; it was terrible.
Welcome back Mads. World feels like its back on its tracks.
Thank you so much :) I wish I could say it feels good to be back ;) I'm sure I'll feel a little better next weekend!
Sail Life. Hoping you feel better soon. Jet lag is rough, and feels worse when you're lovely lady is not there when you get home.
Much thanks for toughing it out to make today's video.
Merry Christmas to you Mads!
oh, and I agree 3°C is cold. it was 20°C on the beach last night making it too cold for our usual nocturnal dip here in Thailand.
Loving the extra thought of not walking through the ice to set up the camera! I expected nothing less from you ;)
As for the trim, mahogany every day, if you don't it'll only bug you till you do it right.
Ps, Tee-shirt on my Christmas list...
Mads, welcome back online, you were missed. I have a suggestion for the trim but it is a ton of work, though the finish look is perfect. Use wood like you showed, I like Teak but up to you, but on the edge against the hatch opening you put a rabbit so the hatch aluminum can actually slide into it, this way you can control how much aluminum you want showing, can make it perfect and solid but it makes it a lot harder to actually do. I used ink along the bottom of the aluminum to transfer a lign to the edge of the wood and created a rabbit the same thickness as the aluminum to slide into. The finish look is exactly what I was going for but now in hindsight it is a lot more work taking care maintenance wise. The sanding and oiling then buffing it but if you use a different wood might be able to avoid that. Just a thought but I am sure with your intelligence and skill you can pretty it up without an issue.
I can't believe you just getting snow, you not much lower south than we here in Canada and we have had snow for almost a month and temps are hitting the mid -20's now.
Nice to have you back :)
Thanks! :)
Last Sunday was a sad day.
I would say to try and match the existing trim for continuity throughout the boat. It also seems like a less exhaustive project for time/effort. Looking forward to next week.
Hi Mads, you can get a mechanical pump for your drill, from around 60kr and up depending on the liquid
God evening Mads
Nice seeing you back in sunny and warm Denmark, you are living in the wrong end off Denmark, you should live in south off Denmark:-)
The hatchet shut be like the one in the salon
As always you made my Sunday evening complete :-) :-)
Great work Mads. Digging your videos! On the topic of trip kits - what sinks that one for me is the fold down screen. i think that would be a pain in the butt and get broken almost immediately. Sliding combo bug screen and blackout blinds are available and seem like a better option (though may be more expensive).
Yes, Match the saloon hatch. Great video, stay warm until next week.
I'm a huge fan of the scenic route, but of course, I get to watch... you have to do lol. My suggestion about the hatches is to go with whatever solution is guaranteed to last through years of cruising abuse. Anything you fabricate yourself will turn out looking good.
Go with wooden hatch trim it looks so much better adding screens shouldn't be a problem for a do it yourself person like you. Keep up the good work.
Love watching your work you do very good.
Just ordered two t-shirts. See you in LA in March!
Hi. Whilst watching your latest video we saw you open the funky siphon do-hicky. I used one myself a couple of times and they work really well and I think I can suggest a possible solution to the diesel tank height! If you take out the speed log, you could push the pipe out through the hull to get the end below the tank height! You'd need to extend the tube I guess, and place a suitable receptacle underneath, but I think it would work great! We love your videos. Jonny & Ana.
I just bought an Oceanair skycreen, the older version. Love it. I think the newer chould be cheeper looking. SFSS-1039 is what I bought.
I think the teak or mahagony trim would be fine for the trim work. I think when the boat is done, you won't notice it at all anyway. Because you are building it you know of any slight imperfections that nobody else would notice. So I wouldn't spend so much time on it. Besides who looks up when walking through a boat??? I bought one of those syphones almost 15 years ago at a country fair from the guy who claimed to be the original inventer. I've been using the same one all this time and it still works perfectly. Since then, I've purchased several more. I paid 6.95 for my first one with a much longer hose. I think I paid almost 20 bucks for the last one I bought but it's still worth the money when the alternative is a mouth full of gas or diesel! I keep one on the boat, one at the workshop and one in the Jeep in case I run out of fuel somewhere. They are great, much like your videos!!!!
Go with the matching teak trim Mads, looks 1000% better than the white plastic crap trim.
Make a trim from a long piece of thin veneer to fit behind the aluminium rail. So that condenswater can drip into the boat instead of wetting up the plywood core again. The connection with te liner can be made from teak/mahogany in an L-shape. Be sure to make a routed copy of the alu frame to use as an exactly fitting template.
Go for the homemade one like the other hatch looks way better. Awesome vids dude. always look forward to your vids
I would go for the wooden trim around the new hatch openings, like the one in the saloon.
"optimized for racing" is a great descriptor :o)
As the old saying goes”if you want something done right you must do it your self” send that junk trim kit back! As for what I would do
I would watch the video your going to be making then try my self after 😂 great video!!!
for the trim use the trim kit, looks like there is excess outer lip you could trim of to make it fit. The time saving will be huge well worth the cost.
If you run out of projects (Ha!) when you have the liner in you can make some wood trim .
Before you worry about the trim though how will you finish the liner? will it hard board or soft foam backed plastic you can wrap around the edges . then you might need different trim options.
cheers warren
With your jiggle siphon, If you got another longer (quite long actually) length of plastic or vinyl tube/hose and a double barbed fitting that would fit both hoses, you could join the two and run the outlet up and out the companionway, over the side and into the catch vessel on the ground. The siphon doesn't care what's in the middle, it only cares that the outlet is lower than the suction. The ground is much lower than the bilge when on the hard. It would be wise to have a helper or be sure that the catch tank is definitely bigger than the source. If having to switch catch tanks, pinching the hose will stop it long enough to switch and off you go again. If the outlet is unmanned, be sure to secure the hose to the vessel. a litre makes a big puddle when only a mm or two thick on the groundwater. Alternatively, you could run the hose out through a through-hull and avoid the up and over.
Hi Mads. To transfer the diesel use a cheap 12v caravan submersible water pump. It will work very well. I used to work for a caravan company and our diesel heater pump in the workshop was a standard caravan sub' pump. I worked there for 10 years and we never had to change it. I think a wood trim round the hatches will look real nice. regards from the UK
How ever you do the trim around the hatches, i would recommend making it so water can not be trapped around the hatch. I like the fairing idea of whats there.
Mads, I think making your own trim to match what Athena already has will the most pleasing (to the eye and to you). If you decide to have flush screens (which is a great idea in the tropics), use a removable hinge or just tabs all around so the screens easily come completely off. When you are passing stores, sail-bags, gear, or people through any of those hatches having the screen hanging from flimsy hinges is an accident waiting to happen.
as a few people have already mentioned, I think make it like the other hatch with a trim of teak or mahogany. it will not only look better it will look like a factory job... which adds to the spiffiness of the over all project... :)
I love your videos i am a carpenter buy trade and you are doing a super job can’t wait till next sunday
How do you only have 35k subscribers? Keep up the good work!
Hi Mads. We replaced 16 hatches on our boat with Lewmar's. Same as the ones that came out. I looked at alternatives but the quality wasn't there. There trim kits may fit, as a lot of these hatches are the same size.
Even though its more work, I would vote to make it or find better production ones. Even if you decide to use these, as cheap as they look they would probably break in the first year of service. Then your somewhere exotic with broken trim to repair. Don't waste your sailing time on something you could do the right way now while you have the wintertime to care for it. Best of luck. Love the channel
45 vies in 44 seconds after publishing. You´re rocking it :)
Actually, the last video topped out at 27K views. That's a bit on the low side - I hope this one will do better :)
Plastic trim kits fade, turn yellow. I have just ripped out two types. Replacing them with wet wood laminate, formed to shape with a trim. You will regret the cheap flims things. As for Tshirts, Australia is another delivery zone. :)
Lewmar makes trim kits for hatches. may consider looking into those. Hatch sizes are pretty common , so they may have a size for you.
Since you asked... ;-) I'd fair and paint the hatch area with the same white pain used throughout the interior. As for the gap, you'll have bedding compound or caulking in there anyway. At the bottom I'd use a bit of trim, stained and/or varnished to match the rest of the trim aboard. I don't think I'd use bright finished trim all the way up. Having the painted part would be consistent with the look in the rest of the boat.
Hey Mads, I hope this may help. I used to work at Lewmar, so know a bit about hatches!!
Vetus copied/matched the cut-out dimensions of Lewmar's hatches when they launched these Magnus products. What you have there is the equivalent of a Lewmar Ocean Hatch Size 30.
The cut-out for your Vetus hatch is listed as 457x327 with corner radii of 43mm.
The cut-out for the Lewmar version is the same 457x327 with corner radii of 42.5mm (it may need to be opened up a bit to suit the trim - I think 4mm to the sides and 2mm to the radii)
Lewmar's trim-kits are much nicer (I say that completely impartially....those Vetus ones look awful!!). They have a textured finish to the plastic, so you have no nasty mould marks. The fly screens also clip in with small turn-clips rather than being permanently fixed on a riveted hinge (though you can hinge them too if you wish).
They can suit up to 72mm thick deck, with still sliding in under the flange.
They are available in both white and an ivory/cream colour and if my memory serves there are sometimes even deeper versions available than 72mm deck thickness, if at some point a boat builder required that...you would need to call Lewmar to see if there is a deeper version for the size 30 hatch on the system, it won't be published anywhere.
Hope that helps, they are a much higher quality product than the plastic one you have there, and as you say will save you an awful lot of work (and provide easy flyscreen installation when you need it).
Feel free to PM me if you want some more info.
Welcome Back !
Mahogany or teak trim at the hatch. Aside from varnish, it’s the easiest and best looking option.
For the trim I would use straight mahogany with a rabbet on the top back side that is equal in depth to the thickness of the hatch flange. That way the trim can overlap the hatch flange while remaining flat in the hatch opening.
Looking forward to this missed u
Thank you so much! :)
Firs, at good seal to protect the core is important. A wood trim frame that has a hinged screen with latches and matches the inner surface of the hatch. A ~0.7mm white plastic strip can cover the interior surface of both. You can even have a lip to cover the inner edge of the strip.
I once emptied my watertank by putting the drain through the opening of the speed censor. Works probably the same for a dieseltank and could save you the cost of an electric pump, plus saves you the effort of carrying the jerrycans out of your boat (if you intend to do that).
the trim kit can possibly be used as a sort of casting mold with extended sides.
Hi Mads... Just want ti say that your vids are always great.... About the hatch trims, go with your drawing number two... Seems like a good solution to me... Athena is way to good for that plastic crap... Keep up with the good work!!!
Mads don't ask me for advice on the hatch trim. Every task I have on my boat seems to go backwards at high speed. Your work is excellent and always so thought out. I trust it will look spiffy as usual.
Mads... with all the time and effort you are putting into this boat do not cut corners on one of the most visible details of the boat. Do the mahogany trims, but make sure it doesn't retain water or allows it to go behind the liner
Yeah, I think making some trim to cover the edge of the hatches is the answer. I bet you'll figure a way to do fairly quick and easy. Your Mads, the wonder DIY guy! ;-)
I like the teak trim idea the best,
If you like the liner that is already in the saloon, I would just copy it. You definitely have the skills to do it.
Make sure you can still get your washing machine in with whatever trim design you decide on
Wood trim is your best choice providing you do upkeep,if it's hardwood just oil and it will stay good and not stain from humidity,being a window humidity is a factor
To me it is a no brainer. With quanlity and workmanship a prime parameter, I would make a Mahogany trim that will match the saloon. just saying.
I believe your adding trim to the ports is the best option to end up "Pretty Darn Spiffy" But your handy work on Athena would suggest you are capable of either fix.
Great vlog as usual. Wouldn’t be advantages to seal the core, in case the hatch leaks?
My opinion is that you go with the teak look like the main salon. It looks classier and avoids the cheap liner look.
Glad you scrapped the hatch trim kit. Second idea of putting wood to line hatch opening is much better. I would make the wood as thin as possible to have the hatch opening as big and as snag free as possible. Cheers!
For your hatches, I would use the trim kit that you had purchased to create a plug, so that you can make the hatches in fibre glass.
Also invest in some dust sheets, they cut down the amount of dust in the rest of your boat and they don't cost much
Lastly - With regard to draining the diesel tank, it does not matter how long the pipe is as long as the bottom, is lower than the top, so the pipe can go outside, to a can on the floor which is lower than your tank
Most prior comments say match the saloon; I agree. As you do the woodwork, would you be able to rout in a rabbit for the frame to sit?
Regarding your hatch trim, I'd go ahead and make wood trim and a wood screen covering as well. I'd also make them to match the existing trim in the other hatch, so I wouldn't have to redo that one as well.
For the screens, I'd dado the inner edge of the wood frame and use that as the location for the screen and scribe, with the dado just large enough to contain it. I'd also use the copper or bronze screening for it because it's both sturdy and corrosion resistant. The fiberglass screening would be my second choice, for corrosion resistance and inexpensive nature.
The speed of transfer with a syphon, in addition to the diameter of the hose, is determined by the height difference between source and destination. So if your transfer is too fast then reduce the height difference!
What about using a very thin strip of veneer around the inside of the hatch openings to cover all the layers of wood and glass? It would add very little thickness and give a nice dressed finish. You can even buy it with heat glue already applied so you just apply it with a clothes iron. Then for the bottom corner you could use some pre-milled 90 degree corner trim, either in white headliner color or mahogany.