I just finished your enitre* Athena Rebuild series and just want to say, Good Job, and that I enjoyed your content. *As a new viewer, and one who relies heavily on a proper playlist to binge watch an entire series..... It appears as if you are currently missing about 60+ varies episodes in the "Project Athena (DIY sailboat restoration)" playlist, and thus I wasn't able to watch them in chronological order. It may not matter much to a seasoned Sail Life viewer, but any new comers like me, they are going to want to watch the ENTIRE series from beginning to end. Cheers!
Hello Mads, Thank you for your excellent video and humor. I've been thinking about your mast repair and arrived to the conclusion that I would NOT use the main furling. Your system is not going to allow you to reef the main if you do not have the wind on the nose because the main rubs against the edge of the mast rail, where it exits. On top of it, you have leave the cockpit and go to the mast to roll it with the handle in the middle of a blow. No a good setup for safety. Best would be to upgrade to a regular sail with lazy jacks and a simple reefing line to the cockpit. The boat sails MUCH better with regular or full batten main sail and the reefing is done almost anytime safely. Good luck!
Don't worry Mads, when you get fed up with the furler jamming (and it will!), you can always mount a sail track on the mast and convert to a slab reefing system.
Carry a small sealed tub of Plasti-Dip onboard, paint it onto any sharp metal edges like the one you found. That's what we do on the racing yachts. Custom rubber covers for anything anytime. Keep the blue masking tape handy too :)
Mads, the gaps and the plastic ring between the prop and the zinc + propnut are to prevent galvanic corrosion. The hub inside the prop looks aluminium but is sythetic. All to prevent corrosion. This is also why the propnut is replaced by a plastic/bronze version. The plastic ring is the same material as the flappy bits vetween engine and saildrive. Your installation is correct now.
I’ve watched you from the start.... now when I’m doing ‘ stuff’ on my canal boat or motorbikes I always approach a job with the words in my head ”now how would Mad’s do it? “ and when finished “ is that a Mad’s standard job ? “ keep them coming you are inspirational.
Side isolator in the shaft extension is great. Don't forget a plastic washer at the base of the aluminum shaft to complete the isolation of the aluminum to ss.
The Mast Saver 2000 is probably the new staple moving forward for all 9 million sailboats currently in service. I endorse this product and Mads the creator. LOL Way to go buddy! Doing a great job as always and loving that you're making top quality episodes in the process. Cheers from Canada and thank you for doing what you do as Sundays are my fave day because of Sail Life
*"The Mast Saver 2000 is probably the new staple moving forward for all 9 million sailboats currently in service."* Nope. The vast majority of us have more sense than to use in-mast roller-reefing in the first place. It's not a "fail-safe" technology. It "fails-dangerous".
@@stevenr8606 - Watch them change their tune the first time it jams on them when they urgently need to take in a reef. In-mast furling mainsails are even more dangerous than furling jibs.
JAFO, noted However, I been following SV DELOS for years (6+) and haven't seen a episode concerning the main mast sail. Nor any problem from other sailors with rolling main mast sails, other than a batten slowly dropping out.
And giving fishing line space to enter between gear housing and prop = destroying water seal so water can enter gear housing and mix with the oil and thereby give Volvo dealers work.
@Eric E As Mads is now coming to understand, why people that have been around boats for a few years cringe, and start thinking of keel hauling, anyone who whispers silicone, and boats. The cleanup to redo it properly afterwards can get a little tedious (to painfully tedious, oh glorious sanding, before and after chemicals), those of us who have had to repair previous owners mental lapses, think of keel hauling with the engine in gear. Why should the barnacles have all the fun! There are plenty of sealants/fillers, that clean up a lot easier. Best wishes, stay safe
Great video as usual Mads. One small thing, whilst you are out of the water do yourself a huge favour and fit a rope cutter. Not cheap but with all the fishing and pot buoys around you will be a lot more relaxed approaching land, especially at night.
I installed that exact plastic two blade prop, that you had on your paperwork. The person switched from a folding bronze two blade, to the full plastic version. Client loves it, plus marine growth doesn’t stick to the plastic prop parts for some reason. Thanks!
I’ve watched every one of your videos; followed you for years..thought this one seemed a little..rushed...hope the deadline pressure isn’t affecting you..keep going, you’re an inspiration and you’re getting close...Regards David.
I owned a Warrior 38 - an earlier version of Athena, probably a prototype, She was called Nademia. I owned her for 10 years (1989 to 1999).....I found that under sail, Nademia was at least half to a knot faster once I fitted a Volvo folding prop - the difference was amazing....and there was still plenty of shove in reverse. On a later boat I fitted a Brunton Autoprop - which self adjusts its pitch. Even better !
That's wild. Your juice your flushing the engine with is dead ringer for the Sailor Jerry rum and cranberry juice I'm indulging in . Cheers mate.....love your channel.
Hi , ATHENA .How is he doing ? It seems Mads is still crazy about you and getting excited about getting you back in the water , you look a total beautiful lady .If you need time to recover after all this work and your safely in the water .let us know and there are around 40 yachts here in the UK that we can put him to task on .Nice one never MISS YOUR VIDEOS .
I’m so happy when I hear “hi guys” and exited when I hear “seeeeeeee youuuuuu” I will bring my sailboat from Australia to anchor next to Athena one day in the future
I would highly suggest you have the old prop sand blasted and powder coated. Keep it as a spair part in case you hit something. Better to have it and be able to do the repair than need it and be stranded.
I would have got a max prop. For the one reason you and Ava are going to sail on long journeys, It will be way worth the price as far as performance and the less time it would take to complete a voyage. Cheers!
McMaster-Carr has every imaginable size and type of Alloy 400 bolts and nuts. I don't think they offer international shipping but, if you need help getting them I have a close friend that works for their service department. Send me a DM and let me know sizes and I would be more than happy to help you get some bolts/nuts. Since finding your channel I've watched every one of your videos and am truly appreciative for all the hard work and knowledge you put into them. You've made the idea of rebuilding my own boat seem so much more feasible!
And if your lathe has thread forming capability, McMaster has rod that you could cut your own shoulder bolts from. Just cut a thread on each end and add a nut. This way you're not twisting the AL furling rod on to hard threads.
Mads. As your break cleaner consumption is pretty high maybe consider buying it in 5l containers and filling a pump bottle spray doohickey. Its much cheaper than aerosol cans
I thought the same thing till I remembered him stepping into the hatch when redoing the deck. Eek... I felt for our boy Mads that day and this new mortal wound... 9 lives I tell you. How he escapes these near-death experiences and tells the tale so humbly is truly the stuff of LEGEND
I am with you on the Prop Gap, if it looks wrong it probably is wrong...Ask the manufacturer to please explain..maybe its missing parts (like line cutting blades). But the honorable Manufacturer is not into building homes for sea life...Mast looking good..cheers n stay safe. ⛵
Regarding the water strainer, it's a good safety practice to ensure it is not mounted below the waterline. If the plastic lid accidentally is cross threaded and this causes it to lock up without seating properly although it could give the impression to a person not familiar with such things that it is properly closed. This will quietly sink the boat if left unattended. It's hard to guess in Athenas installation were the waterline is, but worthwhile to double check.
a good point...worthy close attention. The install prescribes the base of the strainer to be 100mm above, but no more than 200mm above, the static waterline. We re-measured this several times during our recent install of a D240. Comparing oranges with apples here...but our waterline looks higher in comparison to Mads' engine and strainer sweet spot position.
Hey Mads, Your spiffy new propeller should be coated with some kind of barnacle repellent. I installed 2 new sets of aluminium duoprops last Fall without coating them and now they look like small barnacle colonies. I’m gonna try Hempel’s paint system for my propellers next time I go up on the hard. Hope to see you cruise around Denmark next summer. Best regards from Svendborg.
Wow, Mads, another excellent video! Your courage and tenacity are inspirational. Have yourself a great day as we here in Canada celebrate Thanksgiving Day.
There is a hole missing in the bottom of the mastsaver 2000 to get rid of excessive water poring in when you furl a wet sail. The boat deserves stainless outlets in the stern Mads.
Re.. sail drive. The washer is on upside down the two prebent fingers should face towards the prop and then bend the remaining fingers tight against the bolt flats. This is to stop the bolt from loosening
@Mark. I believe Mads did put it on as you describe. He slipped it on the bolt with the two pre-bent tabs facing away from the bolt head. Then just before he tightens it you can also see that the pre-bent tabs are facing away from the camera and towards the prop.
Fantastic videos and a massive help in keeping my boat afloat, THANK YOU! I've just serviced my identical Selden mast and I noticed that your halyard swivel is also missing a plastic guard on the section that slots through the gap in the mast and fastens to the main halyard. This leads to the attachment point for the mainsail head wearing away and I saw yours was quite worn down. Without that plastic Guard, the sail attachment point will rotate against the inside of the mast and bang against the inner slot face...if you know what I mean. You can't buy the part anymore but I made mine out of a piece of nylon. Looking forward to next weeks video. Very best wishes.
Hi Mads, Monel metal rivets and fasteners are used on aircraft around the engine and engine firewalls, so most aircraft parts supplier's should be be able supply what you need. Cheers mate.
Your very sophisticated boat will definitely deserve a Max-Prop eventually. I have one on my 37-footer and I love it - low drag and great reverse thrust.
Link for Monel/ 400 Nickel fasteners www.mcmaster.com/fasteners/material~400-nickel/ You should check with a prop shop and see how much it cost to refurbish the old prop, it would be a good idea to have a dependable spare prop. They can press in a new inner hub, for lack of the correct name of the part, and remove the corrosion then repaint or powder coat the old prop. Everything about the old prop looks like it is a better-made product than the new one so if it can be put back in good condition it would at least appear a sound idea. For any of the Monel, also called 400 Nickel, fasteners, you might look up McMaster Carr on the internet they have an online catalog. If they don't have it then it probably doesn't exist, they are the goto source for materials and fasteners, and just about anything else you can imagine you need to complete a job. If you've never heard of them lets put it this way you could probably build an Aircraft Carrier or a Space Station with everything the sell.
If Mcmaster Carr doesn't have exactly what you need, contact them. They have put me in contact with their suppliers in the past when I was looking for an item larger than they stocked.
The 'to do' list is quickly (relatively) getting down to launch. Great work Mads. With the skills that you have accumulated doing your own refitting and rebuild of Athena if anything goes wrong from this point all you will need to do is find the tools to do the work and make the parts. Thank you, take care and stay well.
I have a big bag of 30 mm Monel rivets, but they are only 4.5mm in diameter. That isn't enough grip range and diameter to go through the MastSaver 2000. Monel is a soft metal so it doesn't work well for bolts (I think its even softer than Bronze). Anyway, worst case I would machine some 316L stainless rods into pins that are threaded for a nut on each end. 3 Pins that are 6mm in diameter would hold the MastSaver 2000 better and stronger than the previous mess. The Delrin sleeve is eliminating a vast majority of the electrical connection between the two metals, and smooth pins through the holes are easier to deal with than threads. A healthy coating of TefGel grease on the pins will prevent corrosion for a minimum of 5 years, you'd probably be fine for even 10 years.
Mass I’ve watched every video. I’m a fan but that three blade fixed prop is the pits for sailing. I know you are going to be switching it out. Also you might want to look into something call PropSpeed. I’ve been very happy with it.
The prop gaps and the plastic washer are to electrically isolate the prop from the saildrive shaft. That is probably also the reason that the metal prop cone was replaced with a plastic one.
Doing the 3 way for raw water you create turbulence 1 way in with a shield and strainer cover on exterior will prove better when one river goes into two will you find eddy's that is turbulence or two outside into one inside it's the same principle
Nice progress! I'm amazed that the plastic hole covers on the Selden mast are still in place and not broken. As you know, they secure to the mast with tabs top and bottom and I seem to lose them frequently when the sail gets to its final furling diameter and pushes outward on those covers. After losing a few I simply stopped buying them!
Mad’s another great video. Before you buy a “folding” prop contact us. We have a better solution at a good price. Can’t say to much it’s in an upcoming video. But it will be the best decision you made............. Ant.
Space between saildrive & prop might be meant for installation of a line cutter device like what SV Delos just installed in last episode. If you think you're obsessing now about those spaces, just wait until fishing line or crab-trap bobber rope gets wound up & fuses itself in there in arctic water temperature.
Always enjoy your Sunday video. I agree with all your cautions. Sometimes you only get one chance to do it right. Once underway you will have plenty of other challenges. Outstanding job. Good afternoon from Michigan.
Your furl saver 2,000 looks very good and STURDY. If you can't find monel bolts you can always just buy BIG monel rivets and make your own with the equipment you have on hand. Another suggestion is monel sleeve between the stainless hardware and the aluminum furler.
Nickel 400 (Monel) fasteners are used in some chemical piping systems like Hydrofluoric Acid. You should be able to source them fairly easy by searching for them by their ASTM specifications: ASTM F467 (Nuts) & ASTM F468 (Bolts).
Most of the other cruisers we meet here in the USA end up motoring/motor-sailing the majority of the time and only truly sailing a tiny fraction of the time. The fancy folding props are usually less efficient under motor and horrible when backing or maneuvering in reverse. Feathering props do better with this, but still they are a lot of extra money for a tiny little reduced drag when sailing. Thousands of dollarsnin fidddly bits getting slowly (or quickly when people don't put the proper isolation bits) dissolved into the salt water... A good solid and cheap fixed prop that has good efficiency under power and especially reversing and maneuvering just makes sense. Hit something with a cheap fixed prop and they are easily repaired or even cheaply replaced if it is too far chunked to regrind A folding prop for a competitive racing boat okay, but they sure don't make sense for a cruising boat, as least nfor people on a budget or would rather spend thousands on something more important/necessary to them.
Extra half a knot boat speed in a force 3. I’d say my folding drop money was money well spent on my boat. I rarely race but cruise long passages. And the sails are usually up if the mooring lines are uncleated.
A half knot? We sail pretty close to hull speed anyhow most of the time once we are out in ocean winds. But you have spent a handful of boat bucks on a complex disposable piece of machinery with a limited lifespan in the water for... reasons. Sure, you are going to be doing everything mentally to justify that decision to yourself. That's simple human nature. I get that. In real life full-time cruising that money is better spent elsewhere.
@@svbarryduckworth628 I’ll let you carry on burning your diesel and I’ll be sat happy, floating along at 2knots with sails barely filled but maintaining course and happy to get there when I get there.
‘Good efficiency under power and especially reversing and maneuvering just makes sense’. Well I don’t agree. I’m a sailing boat not a motor boat. Fuel efficiency around a marina or through a lock isn’t a concern for me. I prefer being efficient under sail. Yes there is a second or so delay engaging reverse. If I needed that second back, then I’ve fucked up already. If I wanted to be more maneuverable under power I’d just give up and get gin palace with a bow thruster and a few hundred hp but I don’t. I’m happy taking things slow, using my prop walk and windage to my advantage.
After cleaning the top swivel doohickey thing with brake clean you may want to think about spraying it with a penetrating lubricant that sets up as a grease. Keep the awesome videos coming...Cheers!
Like your fix for the in mast furling but you should cross drill some drain holes so it does not fill with water and cause more of a problem. Saver version 3000-b
Might I suggest you use titanium screws and nuts. It is a very noble metal and will not cause the corrosion issues with other metals. I use it extensively on my sailboat. I replaced my stainless chain[plates and all the hardware with Titanium. All my clevis pins and mast bolts are titanium. This year I will replace all my turnbuckles with titanium as well. Yes it costs more, but it is will last forever in these applications. Can't wait for someone to make a titanium mast.
I do believe there is an attribute of the Cat ELC coolant that you didn't mention. It makes your engine exhaust smell like cherries! Hmmm, Yummm! My Dad used to say with a welder, a lathe, and some working material you can fix/make/modify anything. But this was before computers were household appliances.
Hi Mads, great video as always. You keep tempting us with images of your Garmin electronics and the promise of installing them. Can you go into detail on a future video on why you chose Garmin over Raymarine, B&G, or even Maertron as your electronics group? Always looking forward to Sunday afternoon. Happy Thanksgiving from Canada 🇨🇦 🦃 🥧.
Great video Mads as usual. Am still not sure how to distinguish a doodad from a doohicky 😳? Been missing Yukull for awhile now. Hope he’s alright. Cheers
I'm thinking the gap between the propeller and the cone is for a cable/line cutter to be installed. This build is so close to getting splashed....... can't wait for the day.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
The best sailboat restoration video on TH-cam. I enjoy the step by step information. Keep them coming.
I just finished your enitre* Athena Rebuild series and just want to say, Good Job, and that I enjoyed your content. *As a new viewer, and one who relies heavily on a proper playlist to binge watch an entire series..... It appears as if you are currently missing about 60+ varies episodes in the "Project Athena (DIY sailboat restoration)" playlist, and thus I wasn't able to watch them in chronological order.
It may not matter much to a seasoned Sail Life viewer, but any new comers like me, they are going to want to watch the ENTIRE series from beginning to end.
Cheers!
Oh Yea, "The Local Volvo Pusher" Lol Mad's you make me smile
You are soooooo lucky to have a machinist friend willing and able to help fabricate parts...priceless!
Big fan from Northern California. Your relief from wildfires and covid. Thank you
Hey! I am from Santa Cruz and my husband from Shaver Lake (where the Creek Fire started).... its been a tough time our here with the fires. Stay safe!
@@sailingavocet I will Thanks. Yeah the August Complex fire is about 3 miles away from my ranch, but the fire lines are holding for now. Fair Seas.
I watch your video every Sunday, enjoy the progress you are making. It will be fun to see you launch the boat.
Hello Mads, Thank you for your excellent video and humor. I've been thinking about your mast repair and arrived to the conclusion that I would NOT use the main furling. Your system is not going to allow you to reef the main if you do not have the wind on the nose because the main rubs against the edge of the mast rail, where it exits. On top of it, you have leave the cockpit and go to the mast to roll it with the handle in the middle of a blow. No a good setup for safety. Best would be to upgrade to a regular sail with lazy jacks and a simple reefing line to the cockpit. The boat sails MUCH better with regular or full batten main sail and the reefing is done almost anytime safely. Good luck!
at some point we need a video of all your start phrases and ending tags. :) that would be fun to watch over the 5 + years.
Don't worry Mads, when you get fed up with the furler jamming (and it will!), you can always mount a sail track on the mast and convert to a slab reefing system.
blue masking tape and paper towel band-aid, classic among doers!
"I'm guaranteed I won't have any corrosion issues with this" . And Mr. Reality chuckles in the background. :-)
And then says "Challenge accepted!"...
How we've all aged! The Mastsaver 2000 is clearly the 20 year old model but sounds so up-to-date to us.
Carry a small sealed tub of Plasti-Dip onboard, paint it onto any sharp metal edges like the one you found. That's what we do on the racing yachts. Custom rubber covers for anything anytime. Keep the blue masking tape handy too :)
Few things are better than a well equipped workshop next to your boat project.
Good ol’ Athena!
Mads, the gaps and the plastic ring between the prop and the zinc + propnut are to prevent galvanic corrosion. The hub inside the prop looks aluminium but is sythetic. All to prevent corrosion. This is also why the propnut is replaced by a plastic/bronze version. The plastic ring is the same material as the flappy bits vetween engine and saildrive. Your installation is correct now.
I’ve watched you from the start.... now when I’m doing ‘ stuff’ on my canal boat or motorbikes I always approach a job with the words in my head ”now how would Mad’s do it? “ and when finished “ is that a Mad’s standard job ? “ keep them coming you are inspirational.
I'm saying things like "Cheap Chinesiam" and "my local parts pusher" when working on home projects. Good times LOL
Side isolator in the shaft extension is great. Don't forget a plastic washer at the base of the aluminum shaft to complete the isolation of the aluminum to ss.
The Mast Saver 2000 is probably the new staple moving forward for all 9 million sailboats currently in service. I endorse this product and Mads the creator. LOL
Way to go buddy! Doing a great job as always and loving that you're making top quality episodes in the process. Cheers from Canada and thank you for doing what you do as Sundays are my fave day because of Sail Life
Best he have it copyrighted, registered and trademarked
*"The Mast Saver 2000 is probably the new staple moving forward for all 9 million sailboats currently in service."*
Nope. The vast majority of us have more sense than to use in-mast roller-reefing in the first place. It's not a "fail-safe" technology. It "fails-dangerous".
^---- Best tell that to Captain Brian aboard the SV DELOS. And SV CLOUDY BAY +++
@@stevenr8606 - Watch them change their tune the first time it jams on them when they urgently need to take in a reef. In-mast furling mainsails are even more dangerous than furling jibs.
JAFO, noted
However, I been following SV DELOS for years (6+) and haven't seen a episode concerning the main mast sail. Nor any problem from other sailors with rolling main mast sails, other than a batten slowly dropping out.
Those gaps are designed to collect highly prized fishing line. You can harvest that line monthly and sell it to pay your moorage.
And giving fishing line space to enter between gear housing and prop = destroying water seal so water can enter gear housing and mix with the oil and thereby give Volvo dealers work.
@@faksen13 you are never going to be able to get a tight enough seal between the prop and drive unit to prevent fishing line getting caught in there.
They make line cutters for prop shafts.
@Eric E As Mads is now coming to understand, why people that have been around boats for a few years cringe, and start thinking of keel hauling, anyone who whispers silicone, and boats. The cleanup to redo it properly afterwards can get a little tedious (to painfully tedious, oh glorious sanding, before and after chemicals), those of us who have had to repair previous owners mental lapses, think of keel hauling with the engine in gear. Why should the barnacles have all the fun!
There are plenty of sealants/fillers, that clean up a lot easier.
Best wishes, stay safe
@@carlthor91 *"keel hauling with the engine in gear. Why should the barnacles have all the fun!"*
I like the way you think, sir!
Seeing you clean on those mast mechanical bits and using Duralac on the fastener threads warms my heart... Riggers around the world applaude you!
I spoke too soon... The MastSaver 2000 is brilliant!
Your attention to detail and making sure everything is done right is awesome and make your videos great.
Great video as usual Mads. One small thing, whilst you are out of the water do yourself a huge favour and fit a rope cutter. Not cheap but with all the fishing and pot buoys around you will be a lot more relaxed approaching land, especially at night.
Oi! You did welding off camera!!! Great work as always
Dang, now I have an entire week to wait for the next video.
Is your new mast saver going to fill up with water ? It may need a drain hole.
Regarding the corrosion of the mast, you can make plastic bushings that surround the screws and avoid the contact of metais, as if they were straws.
I installed that exact plastic two blade prop, that you had on your paperwork. The person switched from a folding bronze two blade, to the full plastic version. Client loves it, plus marine growth doesn’t stick to the plastic prop parts for some reason. Thanks!
I’ve watched every one of your videos; followed you for years..thought this one seemed a little..rushed...hope the deadline pressure isn’t affecting you..keep going, you’re an inspiration and you’re getting close...Regards David.
I owned a Warrior 38 - an earlier version of Athena, probably a prototype, She was called Nademia. I owned her for 10 years (1989 to 1999).....I found that under sail, Nademia was at least half to a knot faster once I fitted a Volvo folding prop - the difference was amazing....and there was still plenty of shove in reverse. On a later boat I fitted a Brunton Autoprop - which self adjusts its pitch. Even better !
Agreed. Fixed prop is a mistake, even on a cruising boat.
You are one braveheart. Rigging and mast mechanics remind me of the lyrics, "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread." But you won. Congratulations.
on camera that prop looks massive
That's wild. Your juice your flushing the engine with is dead ringer for the Sailor Jerry rum and cranberry juice I'm indulging in . Cheers mate.....love your channel.
Listen man you are killing it!!! Keep up the good work! Cant wait to see her in the water I'm happy for you homie!
Hi , ATHENA .How is he doing ? It seems Mads is still crazy about you and getting excited about getting you back in the water , you look a total beautiful lady .If you need time to recover after all this work and your safely in the water .let us know and there are around 40 yachts here in the UK that we can put him to task on .Nice one never MISS YOUR VIDEOS .
owww nooooww! He is going to build a whole new mast now :)
I’m so happy when I hear “hi guys” and exited when I hear “seeeeeeee youuuuuu” I will bring my sailboat from Australia to anchor next to Athena one day in the future
"...stainless with just a sprinkle of titanium" LOL!! Mads, you have a way...
Mads you are one spiffy dude.
I would highly suggest you have the old prop sand blasted and powder coated. Keep it as a spair part in case you hit something. Better to have it and be able to do the repair than need it and be stranded.
You are right about giving all you can in work on mast
I would have got a max prop. For the one reason you and Ava are going to sail on long journeys, It will be way worth the price as far as performance and the less time it would take to complete a voyage. Cheers!
McMaster-Carr has every imaginable size and type of Alloy 400 bolts and nuts. I don't think they offer international shipping but, if you need help getting them I have a close friend that works for their service department. Send me a DM and let me know sizes and I would be more than happy to help you get some bolts/nuts. Since finding your channel I've watched every one of your videos and am truly appreciative for all the hard work and knowledge you put into them. You've made the idea of rebuilding my own boat seem so much more feasible!
And if your lathe has thread forming capability, McMaster has rod that you could cut your own shoulder bolts from. Just cut a thread on each end and add a nut. This way you're not twisting the AL furling rod on to hard threads.
In the U.S. McMaster-Carr has super service! I travel from job site to job site across the U.S. and they get the parts there ON TIME!
McMaster-Carr won't sell to individuals internationally, only businesses.
@@Garryck-1 maybe he'd be able to order parts then since he most likely has a company established to handle his youtube business
@@Garryck-1 That is why he has a girl friend. Mad's thinks ahead.
So much progress! Nice work on the mast restoration. Look great!
Mads. As your break cleaner consumption is pretty high maybe consider buying it in 5l containers and filling a pump bottle spray doohickey. Its much cheaper than aerosol cans
This injury is the first I can remember you having in four years!
I thought the same thing till I remembered him stepping into the hatch when redoing the deck. Eek... I felt for our boy Mads that day and this new mortal wound... 9 lives I tell you. How he escapes these near-death experiences and tells the tale so humbly is truly the stuff of LEGEND
I am with you on the Prop Gap, if it looks wrong it probably is wrong...Ask the manufacturer to please explain..maybe its missing parts (like line cutting blades). But the honorable Manufacturer is not into building homes for sea life...Mast looking good..cheers n stay safe. ⛵
Duca & Roberta just launched their boat on Utube, Mads you are next. Tom
your gona have fun putting that back together
Regarding the water strainer, it's a good safety practice to ensure it is not mounted below the waterline. If the plastic lid accidentally is cross threaded and this causes it to lock up without seating properly although it could give the impression to a person not familiar with such things that it is properly closed. This will quietly sink the boat if left unattended. It's hard to guess in Athenas installation were the waterline is, but worthwhile to double check.
That's why you have a thru-hull closing valve along with high water alarms & bilge pump(s)
I believe he has it mounted above the water line. At least Mads planed it that way last week.
a good point...worthy close attention. The install prescribes the base of the strainer to be 100mm above, but no more than 200mm above, the static waterline. We re-measured this several times during our recent install of a D240. Comparing oranges with apples here...but our waterline looks higher in comparison to Mads' engine and strainer sweet spot position.
Hey Mads,
Your spiffy new propeller should be coated with some kind of barnacle repellent. I installed 2 new sets of aluminium duoprops last Fall without coating them and now they look like small barnacle colonies. I’m gonna try Hempel’s paint system for my propellers next time I go up on the hard. Hope to see you cruise around Denmark next summer. Best regards from Svendborg.
Wow, Mads, another excellent video! Your courage and tenacity are inspirational. Have yourself a great day as we here in Canada celebrate Thanksgiving Day.
Not sure many are celabrating during this LOCK DOWN
We are ready 😅👍
There is a hole missing in the bottom of the mastsaver 2000 to get rid of excessive water poring in when you furl a wet sail.
The boat deserves stainless outlets in the stern Mads.
As Always Mads Excellent Video
I am ready to identify doodahs and doohickys in my boat. This chapters are becoming more exciting!!
Way to go Mads. You are getting so close to launch!! Great work as usual!
Great video Mads .. mast will be perfect for years now :)
That was a well-loved crescent wrench you used on the mast!
Re.. sail drive. The washer is on upside down the two prebent fingers should face towards the prop and then bend the remaining fingers tight against the bolt flats. This is to stop the bolt from loosening
@Mark. I believe Mads did put it on as you describe. He slipped it on the bolt with the two pre-bent tabs facing away from the bolt head. Then just before he tightens it you can also see that the pre-bent tabs are facing away from the camera and towards the prop.
That board is really clearing out. Keep up the great work.
Fantastic videos and a massive help in keeping my boat afloat, THANK YOU! I've just serviced my identical Selden mast and I noticed that your halyard swivel is also missing a plastic guard on the section that slots through the gap in the mast and fastens to the main halyard. This leads to the attachment point for the mainsail head wearing away and I saw yours was quite worn down. Without that plastic Guard, the sail attachment point will rotate against the inside of the mast and bang against the inner slot face...if you know what I mean. You can't buy the part anymore but I made mine out of a piece of nylon. Looking forward to next weeks video. Very best wishes.
Hi Mads, Monel metal rivets and fasteners are used on aircraft around the engine and engine firewalls, so most aircraft parts supplier's should be be able supply what you need. Cheers mate.
Monday morning here in Tasmania and watching this has me motivated for a new week full of spiffy adventures! 😁👍
De-mineralized water, if you have a water maker, you can make as much as you want. Thats what comes out of a water maker.
Your very sophisticated boat will definitely deserve a Max-Prop eventually. I have one on my 37-footer and I love it - low drag and great reverse thrust.
RWilco yes! He should start to collect money for that... fixed blades feel like sailing with brakes on...
I have a flex-a-fold on my 32 foot Pearson and love it. Gained a knot under sail and have good reverse characteristics. Highly recommended.
Terri Harrison what is the difference between Max-Props and Gori-Props?
Link for Monel/ 400 Nickel fasteners www.mcmaster.com/fasteners/material~400-nickel/
You should check with a prop shop and see how much it cost to refurbish the old prop, it would be a good idea to have a dependable spare prop. They can press in a new inner hub, for lack of the correct name of the part, and remove the corrosion then repaint or powder coat the old prop. Everything about the old prop looks like it is a better-made product than the new one so if it can be put back in good condition it would at least appear a sound idea. For any of the Monel, also called 400 Nickel, fasteners, you might look up McMaster Carr on the internet they have an online catalog. If they don't have it then it probably doesn't exist, they are the goto source for materials and fasteners, and just about anything else you can imagine you need to complete a job. If you've never heard of them lets put it this way you could probably build an Aircraft Carrier or a Space Station with everything the sell.
If Mcmaster Carr doesn't have exactly what you need, contact them. They have put me in contact with their suppliers in the past when I was looking for an item larger than they stocked.
McMaster-Carr won't sell to individuals internationally, only businesses.
The 'to do' list is quickly (relatively) getting down to launch. Great work Mads. With the skills that you have accumulated doing your own refitting and rebuild of Athena if anything goes wrong from this point all you will need to do is find the tools to do the work and make the parts. Thank you, take care and stay well.
Nice work, I like your attention to detail, it’s going to pay off in the end
yup! one of our many inspirations
I have a big bag of 30 mm Monel rivets, but they are only 4.5mm in diameter. That isn't enough grip range and diameter to go through the MastSaver 2000. Monel is a soft metal so it doesn't work well for bolts (I think its even softer than Bronze). Anyway, worst case I would machine some 316L stainless rods into pins that are threaded for a nut on each end. 3 Pins that are 6mm in diameter would hold the MastSaver 2000 better and stronger than the previous mess. The Delrin sleeve is eliminating a vast majority of the electrical connection between the two metals, and smooth pins through the holes are easier to deal with than threads. A healthy coating of TefGel grease on the pins will prevent corrosion for a minimum of 5 years, you'd probably be fine for even 10 years.
If you encounter such case with aluminum and stainless again you also can use titanium or titanized stainless fasteners.
I look forward to video every week. Thank you Mads 😊👍
Madds They rebuild those props here. The inside hub is pressed out and a new one is pressed in!
You are on the home stretch! Loved the pace of this installment and rooting for the splash party 👍
Mass I’ve watched every video. I’m a fan but that three blade fixed prop is the pits for sailing. I know you are going to be switching it out. Also you might want to look into something call PropSpeed. I’ve been very happy with it.
The prop gaps and the plastic washer are to electrically isolate the prop from the saildrive shaft. That is probably also the reason that the metal prop cone was replaced with a plastic one.
Doing the 3 way for raw water you create turbulence 1 way in with a shield and strainer cover on exterior will prove better when one river goes into two will you find eddy's that is turbulence or two outside into one inside it's the same principle
Nice progress! I'm amazed that the plastic hole covers on the Selden mast are still in place and not broken. As you know, they secure to the mast with tabs top and bottom and I seem to lose them frequently when the sail gets to its final furling diameter and pushes outward on those covers. After losing a few I simply stopped buying them!
i have seen a line cutter that attaches in front of the prop ,it looks a good idea
Mad’s another great video. Before you buy a “folding” prop contact us. We have a better solution at a good price. Can’t say to much it’s in an upcoming video. But it will be the best decision you made............. Ant.
Space between saildrive & prop might be meant for installation of a line cutter device like what SV Delos just installed in last episode. If you think you're obsessing now about those spaces, just wait until fishing line or crab-trap bobber rope gets wound up & fuses itself in there in arctic water temperature.
Another great video, thanks Mads.
Always enjoy your Sunday video. I agree with all your cautions. Sometimes you only get one chance to do it right. Once underway you will have plenty of other challenges. Outstanding job. Good afternoon from Michigan.
Your furl saver 2,000 looks very good and STURDY. If you can't find monel bolts you can always just buy BIG monel rivets and make your own with the equipment you have on hand. Another suggestion is monel sleeve between the stainless hardware and the aluminum furler.
Nickel 400 (Monel) fasteners are used in some chemical piping systems like Hydrofluoric Acid. You should be able to source them fairly easy by searching for them by their ASTM specifications: ASTM F467 (Nuts) & ASTM F468 (Bolts).
Most of the other cruisers we meet here in the USA end up motoring/motor-sailing the majority of the time and only truly sailing a tiny fraction of the time.
The fancy folding props are usually less efficient under motor and horrible when backing or maneuvering in reverse. Feathering props do better with this, but still they are a lot of extra money for a tiny little reduced drag when sailing. Thousands of dollarsnin fidddly bits getting slowly (or quickly when people don't put the proper isolation bits) dissolved into the salt water...
A good solid and cheap fixed prop that has good efficiency under power and especially reversing and maneuvering just makes sense. Hit something with a cheap fixed prop and they are easily repaired or even cheaply replaced if it is too far chunked to regrind
A folding prop for a competitive racing boat okay, but they sure don't make sense for a cruising boat, as least nfor people on a budget or would rather spend thousands on something more important/necessary to them.
the reduction in drag is not small.
Extra half a knot boat speed in a force 3. I’d say my folding drop money was money well spent on my boat. I rarely race but cruise long passages. And the sails are usually up if the mooring lines are uncleated.
A half knot? We sail pretty close to hull speed anyhow most of the time once we are out in ocean winds.
But you have spent a handful of boat bucks on a complex disposable piece of machinery with a limited lifespan in the water for... reasons.
Sure, you are going to be doing everything mentally to justify that decision to yourself. That's simple human nature. I get that.
In real life full-time cruising that money is better spent elsewhere.
@@svbarryduckworth628 I’ll let you carry on burning your diesel and I’ll be sat happy, floating along at 2knots with sails barely filled but maintaining course and happy to get there when I get there.
‘Good efficiency under power and especially reversing and maneuvering just makes sense’.
Well I don’t agree.
I’m a sailing boat not a motor boat. Fuel efficiency around a marina or through a lock isn’t a concern for me. I prefer being efficient under sail.
Yes there is a second or so delay engaging reverse. If I needed that second back, then I’ve fucked up already. If I wanted to be more maneuverable under power I’d just give up and get gin palace with a bow thruster and a few hundred hp but I don’t. I’m happy taking things slow, using my prop walk and windage to my advantage.
After cleaning the top swivel doohickey thing with brake clean you may want to think about spraying it with a penetrating lubricant that sets up as a grease. Keep the awesome videos coming...Cheers!
Just sleeve the bolts and have a delrin washer both ends?
Like your fix for the in mast furling but you should cross drill some drain holes so it does not fill with water and cause more of a problem. Saver version 3000-b
That prop looks like it will cause a lot of drag! Go for a folding prop with all that work you’re doing and add the extra kt of speed 👍
Might I suggest you use titanium screws and nuts. It is a very noble metal and will not cause the corrosion issues with other metals. I use it extensively on my sailboat. I replaced my stainless chain[plates and all the hardware with Titanium. All my clevis pins and mast bolts are titanium. This year I will replace all my turnbuckles with titanium as well. Yes it costs more, but it is will last forever in these applications. Can't wait for someone to make a titanium mast.
Instructive as always, Mads.
I do believe there is an attribute of the Cat ELC coolant that you didn't mention.
It makes your engine exhaust smell like cherries! Hmmm, Yummm!
My Dad used to say with a welder, a lathe, and some working material you can fix/make/modify anything.
But this was before computers were household appliances.
Hi Mads, great video as always. You keep tempting us with images of your Garmin electronics and the promise of installing them. Can you go into detail on a future video on why you chose Garmin over Raymarine, B&G, or even Maertron as your electronics group? Always looking forward to Sunday afternoon. Happy Thanksgiving from Canada 🇨🇦 🦃 🥧.
You can install a blade in front of the prop, giving a tangled rope a chance to be cut and free itself.
www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/propeller-rope-cutter-test-30012
Great video Mads as usual. Am still not sure how to distinguish a doodad from a doohicky 😳?
Been missing Yukull for awhile now. Hope he’s alright.
Cheers
I'm thinking the gap between the propeller and the cone is for a cable/line cutter to be installed. This build is so close to getting splashed....... can't wait for the day.
Use hot glue on the hose clamps to cover end. Cheap and easy.
Also used a small scrap of heat shrink tubing
Excellent idea, hanks.
The pros use a dab of original grow-a-pair along with some watch-your-fingers.
"...Volvo pusher..." LOL I would suggest adding a drain hole to the mast-saver 2000.
Mast saver 2000 and the local Volvo pusher LOL.