Set end play first, then remove gland nut and flywheel and only then install the flywheel seal. Otherwise, you'll have an erroneous reading. Also, it might be a good idea to remove th flywheel lock while checking end play. Also, unless this guy has really strong fingers, you should use two screwdrivers, inserted between the back of the flywheel and the engine collar. You need more leverage to force the crank--more than a finger pull. It's a good idea to first wedge the rear pulley backward (using screwdrivers) then go back around to the front of the engine with your screwdrivers and check for end play.
I didn't have the proper tools to torque the gland nut to 245 foot pounds. I saw your video and took my motor to work and used an impact wrench to tighten it. Now I have a stripped gland nut. Hopefully the threads on the crank aren't ruined too.
Mjs S if you follow this guy you'll never get the fly will put on right you don't put your rear main seal on first and then put your fucking shims on how backwards can you be only a moron would put the rear main seal on first and then put your Shims what if you have the wrong The wrong inplay you are supposed to put the flywheel on then check your in play then you find the right amount of shim to install once you have that then then you install your rear main seal re-torque your flywheel done
Thanks for the info. Your.vids are always top notch and very informative. Just started my 69 Squareback 1776cc after about a month parked. Reversed out of the garage to find a puddle of oil under the motor. I crawled underneath and the pushrod tubes and surrounding areas were covered in oil. I’m thinking it’s the rear main seal. I guess it’s time to pull the motor. Do you have any video on how to pull the motor?
darren, hoping i can catch you at this years bug jam, i have three bugs and always worried I'll loose a motor. i picked up two used motors and want to rebuild. i live in Zephyrhills florida watch your vids and have been for years. like your advice, know you don't recommend rebuilding a vw as a first rebuild. wondering if your close enough if we could get together for a rebuild? would love the help and expertise.
thanks for the vid ,,,QUESTION PLEASE i have a 1600 dual port all stock, i have a good flywheel no cut groove anywhere its a radius finish, new o ring i lubed it , this is the second seal in a week ? i can't stop it from leaking some i even sanded the outside diameter of where the seal fits and added some non hardening sealer, what did i miss? thanks
Hi, Darrin. Great videos. I have watched them all and find them invaluable. I notice this video you are putting the seal on, then the shims. In another video, you are putting the shims first, then the seal. Does it matter which goes first? Thanks again for the vids....
I cannot get my head around just how a common Rattle Gun can tighten the Flywheel Gland Nut to a precise and correct torque value of 217lbs Ft. Feed air pressure to the Rattle Gun surely affects the torque that can be applied.
i got a bug motor an haveing trouble geting the inplay set i have tryed 3 different set of sims an can't get any inplay what do i do it was autostick an changing to stick need a lil help on this
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thanx Darrin I think your old school vw engine videos are great.i cant get enough, please keep em coming.
"Use what you have". Never truer words for the frontier where we live. Fixin' to use what I have!
Set end play first, then remove gland nut and flywheel and only then install the flywheel seal. Otherwise, you'll have an erroneous reading. Also, it might be a good idea to remove th flywheel lock while checking end play. Also, unless this guy has really strong fingers, you should use two screwdrivers, inserted between the back of the flywheel and the engine collar. You need more leverage to force the crank--more than a finger pull. It's a good idea to first wedge the rear pulley backward (using screwdrivers) then go back around to the front of the engine with your screwdrivers and check for end play.
Love your videos
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge
wow that's awesome and I was going to do it with a steering wheel pulley, but I always have to check it before with Google, thanks guys.
I didn't have the proper tools to torque the gland nut to 245 foot pounds. I saw your video and took my motor to work and used an impact wrench to tighten it. Now I have a stripped gland nut. Hopefully the threads on the crank aren't ruined too.
Mjs S if you follow this guy you'll never get the fly will put on right you don't put your rear main seal on first and then put your fucking shims on how backwards can you be only a moron would put the rear main seal on first and then put your Shims what if you have the wrong The wrong inplay you are supposed to put the flywheel on then check your in play then you find the right amount of shim to install once you have that then then you install your rear main seal re-torque your flywheel done
Thanks for the info. Your.vids are always top notch and very informative. Just started my 69 Squareback 1776cc after about a month parked. Reversed out of the garage to find a puddle of oil under the motor. I crawled underneath and the pushrod tubes and surrounding areas were covered in oil. I’m thinking it’s the rear main seal. I guess it’s time to pull the motor. Do you have any video on how to pull the motor?
For a newbie, how do you know you have the correct torque applied when using an impact gun?
Where can I buy the shims from and what sizes should I buy?
darren, hoping i can catch you at this years bug jam, i have three bugs and always worried I'll loose a motor. i picked up two used motors and want to rebuild. i live in Zephyrhills florida watch your vids and have been for years. like your advice, know you don't recommend rebuilding a vw as a first rebuild. wondering if your close enough if we could get together for a rebuild? would love the help and expertise.
thanks for the vid ,,,QUESTION PLEASE i have a 1600 dual port all stock, i have a good flywheel no cut groove anywhere its a radius finish, new o ring i lubed it , this is the second seal in a week ? i can't stop it from leaking some i even sanded the outside diameter of where the seal fits and added some non hardening sealer, what did i miss? thanks
Nice thanks for the gland nut and flywheel info.
Mike IN IOWA
thanks for taking a look Mike
Hi, Darrin. Great videos. I have watched them all and find them invaluable. I notice this video you are putting the seal on, then the shims. In another video, you are putting the shims first, then the seal. Does it matter which goes first? Thanks again for the vids....
Nice work !!!!
I'm going to design some oil seal installation tools for my engines :)
very cool
thanks for the tips!
I cannot get my head around just how a common Rattle Gun can tighten the Flywheel Gland Nut to a precise and correct torque value of 217lbs Ft. Feed air pressure to the Rattle Gun surely affects the torque that can be applied.
217lbs? I go way more. Like 250.
Martin Harris: I agree with your comment!
Good info Darrin
How mich end play does it have without flywheel on there
Great video!
Thanks!
thanks for taking a look
I like it
Trips me out how you can work on the floor. I am not quite your age and I have not been able to do that in many years.
Good stuff.
thanks for stopping buy
Good stuff
thanks Ron
i got a bug motor an haveing trouble geting the inplay set i have tryed 3 different set of sims an can't get any inplay what do i do it was autostick an changing to stick need a lil help on this
Samuel Slusher hate to say it but you ain't going to learn nothing from this guy Except how to fuck your shit up
Ok i got it fixed anyways
Cool
thank you CJ
that bird ;)
yeah.
i thought you would like this kind
That is not how you put a volts wagon flywheel on you do not rattle it on with an impact