Hey sorry for the delay, I’ve been focusing on another channel where I don’t cuss at all and are trying to get motorized 😂 but to properly answer your questions,.. yes that is the “order” in which those steps are executed. However if you meant (one after that other) consecutively, then… the primer you will be spraying would be a PRIMER SEALER instead of a primer surfacer which was the primer they I used on this vehicle. I used primer surfacer because the oem paintjob was soooo bad that it needed to be sanded away all the way to the metal because the was also corrosion on the steel. I also needed some body filler in some areas in order to correct the height difference between the remaining oem paint and the areas that are now bare metal, so the body filler (bondo) does a great job filling in that low spot. After doing your best with the body work portion, you will need 2k primer which is PRIMER SURFACER and is EPOXY based and requires an activator. These do not need to be reduced with reducer BUT you CAN if you wanted to. It will give the primer less viscosity and it could potentially run or drip easier if your not careful BUT it will lay out very smooth, almost as perfect as a vinyl wrap. What I do is leave it thick for the first two or three coats, and then I’ll add reducer for my last one or two coats in order to NOT have orange feel when I’m done. This will make it easier to block sand for prep and will waste less sand paper and your final paint job will lay out more like glass than not. If your body work is legit and you have NOOO sand scratches, no exposed feather edges, meaning you bondo feather edge also covers the feather edge of the paint that you sanded, and you have NOOO pin holes and NOOO chips…. Then you can reduce your epoxy primer as thin as clear and spray your primer like you spray clear “shoot for shine”… I promise your primer job will look like it’s a vinyl wrap and your paint job will come out SOOOO LAID OUT that you will not need to wetsand and buff NOTHING unless you have dirt. I’ve been thinking of opening a new channel bro… I want to open an ASE prep course channel and teach my viewers for free. I want to help ppl get their ASE by helping them get an A the first time they ever take their ASE B2 Certification test. There’s just so many fake bs diy channels out there that I’m afraid that people won’t recognize what I’m offering or take me serious. I have a different channel where I am completely professional, and there is no profanity because I’m trying to get monetized but because I have so much knowledge to give and so much to teach I’ve been thinking about creating the free ASE school channel.
Well explained 🤝
Happy new years I hope all has been well.
Do you put the primer on first, then the ground coat?
Hey sorry for the delay, I’ve been focusing on another channel where I don’t cuss at all and are trying to get motorized 😂 but to properly answer your questions,.. yes that is the “order” in which those steps are executed. However if you meant (one after that other) consecutively, then… the primer you will be spraying would be a PRIMER SEALER instead of a primer surfacer which was the primer they I used on this vehicle. I used primer surfacer because the oem paintjob was soooo bad that it needed to be sanded away all the way to the metal because the was also corrosion on the steel. I also needed some body filler in some areas in order to correct the height difference between the remaining oem paint and the areas that are now bare metal, so the body filler (bondo) does a great job filling in that low spot.
After doing your best with the body work portion, you will need 2k primer which is PRIMER SURFACER and is EPOXY based and requires an activator. These do not need to be reduced with reducer BUT you CAN if you wanted to. It will give the primer less viscosity and it could potentially run or drip easier if your not careful BUT it will lay out very smooth, almost as perfect as a vinyl wrap.
What I do is leave it thick for the first two or three coats, and then I’ll add reducer for my last one or two coats in order to NOT have orange feel when I’m done. This will make it easier to block sand for prep and will waste less sand paper and your final paint job will lay out more like glass than not.
If your body work is legit and you have NOOO sand scratches, no exposed feather edges, meaning you bondo feather edge also covers the feather edge of the paint that you sanded, and you have NOOO pin holes and NOOO chips…. Then you can reduce your epoxy primer as thin as clear and spray your primer like you spray clear “shoot for shine”… I promise your primer job will look like it’s a vinyl wrap and your paint job will come out SOOOO LAID OUT that you will not need to wetsand and buff NOTHING unless you have dirt.
I’ve been thinking of opening a new channel bro… I want to open an ASE prep course channel and teach my viewers for free. I want to help ppl get their ASE by helping them get an A the first time they ever take their ASE B2 Certification test.
There’s just so many fake bs diy channels out there that I’m afraid that people won’t recognize what I’m offering or take me serious. I have a different channel where I am completely professional, and there is no profanity because I’m trying to get monetized but because I have so much knowledge to give and so much to teach I’ve been thinking about creating the free ASE school channel.