BIQU Hurakan 3D Printer Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2024
- The BIQU Hurakan is an i3 style 3D printer running Klipper from the factory... but does that make it any better than the rest?
The Ultimate Book of 3D Printing Tips and Tricks (FDM/FFF) - www.makersmuse.com/3dprinting...
Resources:
NERO 3D - / @nero3d
BIQU Hurakan PrusaSlicer profile - www.makersmuse.com/biqu-hurak...
BIQU Hurakan User Manual - github.com/bigtreetech/BIQU-H...
Models:
Owl - www.thingiverse.com/thing:18271
Gayer-Anderson Cat - www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Fox Machina - www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Clearance Castle - www.makersmuse.com/clearance-...
Glitch Planter - www.printables.com/model/2877...
Join the Maker's Muse Community - www.makersmuse.com/maker-s-mu...
3D Printing Quick Start Guide - www.makersmuse.com/fdm-fff-3d...
3D Printer Buyers Guide - www.makersmuse.com/purchasing...
3D Printing Essentials - www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Ducks are included because of "rubber duck programming" or at least thats how it started. As a company that sells a lot of custom hardware that often requires firmware configuration, users can get frusterated and stuck. But explaining the code line by line to something like a rubber duck, means you have to put it in really simple terms so the duck can understand. This is a very common technique for programmers because when you say your code out loud and in basic terms, you often hear yourself saying things that are wrong or dont make sense which are the problems in your code that you need to fix!
Klipper is such a powerful software. Can't imagine to going back to Marlin at all.
Nice! That Clearance Castle print was impressive. It's been a while since I've used a filament based 3D printer (last time I used one was back in 2017) but they still seem to get more and more upgrades each year. I may pick one up soon, thanks to your great reviews! :)
Love the honesty. Always refreshing. Don't ever change.
Great video, happy to hear my videos helped you out with learning Klipper
Absolutely did!
Man your videos are 10/10 I'm going to put Klipper when i build my ratrig vcore3 for my Cartesians marlin 2.1.2 (with input shaping) does an awesome job, keep making videos man :)
I know what I would like to see: a huge thanks and thumbs up from Biqu for your extensive work and research
We actually messaged him privately to thank him for the vid. He made some good suggestions.
You can use slicer acceleration in klipper, but you need to set a macro for that. I use that approach for different profiles and works really well
Yep or if you go for SuperSlicer which is a fork of PrusaSlicer, there is a gcode generation option for Klipper. Hope that one day it'll find its way into mainline PrusaSlicer
So good to see you covering and diving into Klipper. Honestly been one of the best changes to my Ender 3 pro I have ever done.
Back then there were a few Marlin and octopi features I missed but most of those have been added.
Most notably is the Exclude Objects feature which allows you to cancel a single part that's failing.
A feature worth your time would be the Macros for your Start gcode - I've been using your start gcode for years now.
Same. I basically transformed mine into a new machine for little money.
I added a Sonic Pad to my E3S1Pro and haven't looked back. Regardless of whether you go with a prebuilt solution or roll your own it's a quantum leap in speed, quality, wireless connectivity, and ease of calibration/troubleshooting.
Again an amazing video by the one and only maker god! You're the only reason I did not get butchered by a 3D printer startup scam.
For those who might prefer it, we are working on a build of Marlin plus OctoPrint for the Manta in loose coordination with BTT, so stay tuned for that!
Will definitely do
neat!
The beauty of Klipper is the ability to change parameters that normally require a tedious firmware re-compile as well as the ability to print much faster than what is shipped. A mechanically stock E3V2 printing PLA with 62.5mm/s walls and 125mm/s grid infill without losing quality (visual and dimensional) is a major plus. Crank up that speed in your slicer and see how it does!
Printing here with Ender 3V2 with volcano hotend, custom Marlin firmware. Prints fine at 60mm/s, infills at 100mm/s, acceleration 2000mm/s², jerk 15mm/s. Prusa slicer handles the transitions between different flowrates. I see no reason to use klipper.
Speed does nothing if you don't crank up acceleration. The default max acceleration is way low for a good quality print.
Klipper does not magically make the printer print faster
@@dtibor5903 with Klipper you can do a lot more than Marlin. Just for configuration. You have macro, auto z calibration, accelerometer for auto resonance compensation, a relay nice interface.
@@dtibor5903 my v2 with sonic pad was at 100 / 160mm/s and 2900 mm/s2 and the corners were better and there is no ringing than much slower speeds on marlin. I did not try newer versions of marlin with pressure advance because at the time the main board I had was not compatible I believe.
Favorite hairstyle yet 😁
It's a bit crazy lol
fresh upload… sick!
hello mr 3d printer man thank you for the videos
Great review Angus, as always. I was looking for a new printer because the X axis stopped working (I believe the driver is burnt), but now I think I will give your recommendation a shot, buying the Klipper board and installing that to see how things go. I have an Ender 5 Pro, but can't use it.
I love your channel but I note that you have never reviewed a Tevo printer and I have had one for two years and its a great printer and all the Tevo printers are really good. By the way great review!
Brilliant review
Grats on a million subs!
Great video Angus, thank you for the feature :)
Also - despite your little rant about putting a high tech control system into a potato, I'm still happy that I put Klipper (via a Raspberry Pi 4 I got before they were rare) on my Ender 3. 😀
Learn what the word 'rant' means please. 'aside' would be a better fit.
@@cenciende9401 Have some lube, cause you're hella anal
Seeing details like bulging edges from over-extrusion on an out-of-the-box new printer just further cements my decision to get a Prusa i3 Mk3 was the right one, it needs a tiny bit of cleaning & maintenance now but otherwise it's still the workhorse I built nearly 5 year ago.
Very interesting video Angus. So many interesting printers out there, I just wish I had the money and space to try some :)
9:42, I love the packing tape over the SD card, I'd do that myself!
But thank you for posting your tuning information. I will check that out!
I use screws_tilt_calculate and a bed mesh at the beginning of prints on my Ender 3. Like mentioned, it's not as fancy as a Voron but it's way faster and more consistent than paper leveling. I'm blown away at the quality of first layers I'm getting.
I’ve been fighting with my Hurakan since December 2022. Look at the thermistor into the heat block. You’ll discover that it’s only half-way in from the factory. Look at the switch and frame ground wires (Plural) going to the FG post of the PSU, yes, that’s right, there are TWO SPADE CONNECTORS on that post from the factory. That’s illegal in the US as far as I can tell. Look at those connectors AFTER you do the resonance tests. You might find that one of the spades has worked itself out from under the FG post. I shorted the printers 24v system when I put BIQU’s top of the line hot end on it. I also fried their 7” monitor and the ribbon cable from behind the original print head to the board. It has taken two months to get a new ribbon cable from BIQU. They refused to take responsibility for the FIRE HAZARD this printer is. It’s cheap, its garbage, I wish I’d never bought it, and replacing the board and the CB1 and the stepper drivers and everything else has cost me as much as I paid for the Hurakan in the first place. This printer is a total failure, unlike the Xvico Pioneer.
Just as an fyi, you can and you should control acceleration from your slicer with klipper. Set your external perimeters at something conservative (around 1k for this type of printer) and internal perimeters & infill to 3-4k to speed up the print.
Also make sure you output marlin (legacy) from prusa slicer for this to work.
On bed leveling, yes level the bed with the wheels, then do the ABL.
However, what you really should add is the adaptive bed leveling script in, and run it before a print, it'll only run a mesh of the area of the bed you're printing on.
I won a pre-production Biqu Hurakan in ERRF from the Microcenter booth, and I can tell you I did not have these issues, lol. I had no corner bulging issues, and the tuning out of the box was a lot better than what you got. I have been using it for mostly functional (not aesthetic) prints and the dimensions tuen out dead on accurate and the corners do not bulge.
It could be a difference in filaments. Maybe you’re using something more like what the printer team used to tune.
@@OhHeyTrevorFlowers Yea, maybe. That is a very good point!
Looks cool!
What a strange combination.
Boden tube and bedslinger.
Thanks for sharing your expirence and hard work with all of us 👍 😀
It makes no sense. Overall acceleration is limited by the slowest and heaviest axis (the bed). Even my Tenlog D3 with it ridiculously heavy extruders is limited by the Y axis acceleration.
One of the advantages of using klipper is input shaping so you can get faster prints with better quality. Since its an i3 frame, the mass on the y axis is huge. Wouldve been useful to find out how much klipper can speed up an i3 since most people have i3s and could possibly upgrade to it.
This is less of a distinction now that Marlin Firmware has ZV input shaping (which even works on a 16MHz AVR board), with more advanced input shaping (provided by Ulendo) on the horizon for 32-bit boards, with no external computer or SBC needing to be attached. The nicer thing about Klipper is the variety of interfaces, like Mainsail, which does marry well with the internals of Klipper, giving more direct control than you might get with OctoPrint and a generic Marlin. As things go forward it's great to see a healthy competition happening in the firmware space, as this will lead to greater benefits for the end user, no matter which ecosystem one chooses.
@@ScottLahteine Marlin doesnt yet have the accelerometer based measurements for input shaping as Klipper does so marlin input shaping is based on manual adjustments. Its good that input shaping isnt limited anymore to klipper and more complicated setups but klipper is still the best way for optimum speed printing.
My klipper ender 3v2 with glass bed and microswiss NG extruder can get 2900mm/s2. Speed is more driven by flow rate and nozzle selection than the motion system. The glass bed is the acceleration limitation, the direct drive doesn't matter in my case. With a volcano nozzle plus some brass nuts the hot end will do 22m3/s flow rate at 230c with PLA. Upgraded cooling is required at these flowrates.I have seen other users with pei beds and bowdens get almost 5k acceleration. I will be changing the bed next.
To give you an idea a cal cube used to take 28 minutes with marlin and default profile. Right now it takes 5m.
@@ScottLahteine That's great to hear! These new techniques have been catching my attention for a while now, but I've still been on the fence for actually converting several of my machines to Klipper, since my marlin controls suit my needs just fine. Where would one go to learn more about this and other marlin/octoprint developments you've been discussing here?
The thing about bedflingers is the varying resonance frequencies. The further into a print, the heavier the bed and thus lower frequencies. The further up in z the higher the leverage for oscillation of the x axis. You ideally want constant frequencies as there isnt something like a variable input shaper based on material printes and z height. Thats why most fast printers have the bed moving in z direction as it has the least influence on resonance frequencies
I love modding and upgrading my ender 3 and I love klipper because it just makes modding so easy. Want to add filament runout sensor? No need to reflash the firmware, just wire it up, add it in klipperis config file, and it's done!
Got this printer for 45€ because the previous owner couldn’t figure out how to update MCU firmware. In comparison with other ender clones it’s a fantastic, and saves up tons of time and nerves that would be lost while configuring kipper from scratch and installing all the mods. Also, the print head fans use strange 1.5mm connectors that are really hard to find (second “update” that the previous owner made- wired the hotend fan together with board fan). So, if you can get a used one for a good price- grab it! At worst you will be able to reuse the manta board.
I'd like to see you go through how to properly hone all of the settings in Klipper. All I've found is videos going through one or two of them. There are so many, and there is probably an preferred order to do them in too.
This does look really phoned in, klipper is pretty awesome and can get faster, higher resolution and stutter free results from very limited hardware, but as you crank the speeds, it really exposes the need to get the printer really dialled in, especially pressure advance and input shaper which aren't available without a lot of work on inexpensive printers running marlin. Going klipper-fast also highlights issues with barely good enough motion systems, extruders and hotends. Some of this can be tuned out. You can do a lot to a cheap printer with a printed direct drive or short-bowden jetpack-like extruder and dual z (or dual-belted like kevenakasam's mods).
I was thinking about picking one of these up, and now I have more to consider. Thanks for the info. Also, what are you making with all of that techno gear? I see an 8080, 2600, neutron, etc.
The i3 is perfect for beginners wanting to dabble, but the Pursa XL and Bambu Labs Carbon X1 are going to be the trendsetters on domestic markets.
To remove the user from troubleshooting, ID codes etc.
Thanks
Gread Video ❤
TO first level bed with screw - you need screw tilt calculate in klipper - it use you probe and show you how much turn each corner to get bed leveled.
i would set the pressure advance setting in the filament gcode instead of the printer config. needs to be tuned for every type of filament
SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.06
I've been under the impression that mesh bed leveling is for fine tuned adjustments, and to account for any warping of the bed. I'm not sure it's really meant to be a full replacement for manual adjustment. I never really thought about the Z-offset thing - I just put the offset into the configuration and forget about it. If I need a different Z-offset for something like an unusual filament, I can certainly make a profile in my slicer with the adjustment. I'm curious as to what the actual use case is of a manual Z adjustment?
You can even use the probe the level the bed with screws_tilt_adjust / SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE and then as you say use mesh to level out imperfections of the bed.
I love your videos, and a really cheap and good choice would bee SOVOL SV06 runing klipper on an 30$ Orangepi zero 2, wich is in stock on aliexpress
Yeah, unfortunately, as soon as I saw the same old Ender-style motion system, I wondered why they would stick Klipper on it. Sure, it can clean up prints but you'll never realize the full speed benefits and, as you demonstrated, it won't do that well off the bat and for someone uninitiated it may never reach its potential even on this machine.
It's not a great pairing and unnecessarily jacks up the price for what looks to be an introductory printer.
Great review.
"ask me how I know" got a like XD
Rubber Duck Debugging is a tried and true engineering technique!
i wish the community around klipper was as good as the functionality
Most specialized projects tend to be gatekept and have an RTFM culture
@@shapshooter7769 RTFM is fine when the FM is actually readable, correct, complete and not eight bookshelf feet of ramblings, errata, version release notes and errata and so on. The state of the FM for a lot of these projects very rarely full fill these criteria as they are in constant and furious development and a lot of the contributors are often not all that good at keeping the documentation up to date.
Oh yeah another vid
This probably has nothing to do with it, but including something like the duck is a great way to know if you are getting a new in the box printer or not. Most people are not going to remember to repack the duck.
I'm guessing that they included a duck as a reference to the 'rubber duck' method of troubleshooting. It's where you have an inanimate object (typically a rubber duck) that you talk to and explain problems you're having. In doing so, you often end up figuring out what the issue is on your own.
Rubber Duck debugging, thats what the Duck is for.
Big Tree Tech is the famous duck source.
Love the potato car!
angus got that cartoon electrocution hair
so basically it does what the duet wifi boards have done for years with its duet web control? and the latest reprap firmware (as well as the web interface) supports input shaping which is what im in the process of setting up on my custom built printer.
Some disassembly and reassembly required.
1:50 How do you know? 😛
Because I did it duhh! haha
Can you do a video where you compare the bambulab p1p to the ankermake m5
Thank you very much
but What are the pieces that can only be made with the 3d printer?
If I want to turn it into a business
Good video. It hasn't convinced me that the BIQU is a good learner printer, and its limitations imply that's who it's aimed at.
I'm a Klipper convert; my (original-ish) Ender 3 prints faster and better from when I used Marlin, and I can tweak without a recompile. I know Tom's 3D is or was staying away from it because of a toxic community, but I haven't seen that. That said, I still bristle a little at having to tell the Raspberry Pi to shut down, and wait for it to do so. With Marlin, I just powered off straight away.
I suspect Klipper is moving faster than Marlin and it's probably because you don't have to recompile every time.
Don't you dare talk down on the absolute legend that is the Toyota Echo.
That was a pretty solid comparison though. The Echo is basically the same as an Ender 3, but definitely not as numerous in the states.
Haha I own one and it won't die 😂
@@MakersMuse Known as the Yaris in the UK and Europe
@@MakersMusepretty much all the simple old Toyotas are really solid. I've owned so many from the 70s-80s and I've never had any major issues. One of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned is my super ratty '74 Corolla that has more than half a million miles on it. I daily drove it for like two years and the only issue it ever had was a rad hose swelled up and made contact with the alt.
This looks almost IDENTICAL to my Ender S1 Pro. Only the hot end is different.
I think Klipper will soon be the new standard, whether all the features are used or not. It allows easy upgrades, and more manufactures may soon be switching to Klipper capable processors.
It will depend on how fast arm CPUs can get, and how good marlin gets, for example the latest marlin has input shaping, and soon enough we will see mainboards that can do everything on a single MCU (like hosting a web interface) for example I'm running Marlin 2.1.2 on an SKR 1.4 (non turbo) and I'm getting 6.5accel and 275mm/s while the print quality remains unharmed and the skr3 got s 480mhz arm cpu, so, they are getting really fast, really quickly
@@WhiteG60 yep, i agree with prusa, absolutely, on marlin, it takes a while to config, but the learning curve isn't as steep as with Klipper (i think that rrf it's as easy or easier to install) as always, everyone can pick and choose what they want, what cloud connectivity? Sure, pay for the pi (even octoprint) want cheap, but fast? No cloud connectivity.
Oh and btw it depends on what change you make, for example if it max accel, you can change it through g-code commands, as well as the homing offset or a few other things, marlin accepts over 200 different commands
Better off with Kingroon KP5L prints beautifully
To be honest, I just looked at the thumbnail as I always watch your videos. I first thought by the thumbnail and what's written on it that Klipper ran on a notebook with an i3 CPU and was a little disappointed that i3 was in reference to the printer design...
There's no reason it couldn't run on an i3 laptop but sorry no, it wasn't the topic of the video!
what is Extrema Ratio - like knife used to open the box ?
This printer is on sale at micro center for $139 right now. Cheap price for what you get. Ender 3 V2 is still $179
so sad, still around 200 in my country :(
What happened to Polyalchemy? I managed to snag a final roll of the black material but disappointed I won't be able to get any more.
I added Klipper to my Sunlu S8 and wouldn't ever go back. Just really enjoy the easy firmware mods and slick interface
Printed Solid bought the rights to Elixir. I've given up asking Dave when it's going to be available. (He needed some new equipment to be able to manufacture it.)
Yeah, PS bought it a while ago but no word on if they'll ever actually produce it again. Very sad :(
Same pricepoint as Creality's CR6 but with less/worse features... (no dual-z screw, much more assembly required, bltouch instead of nozzle strain gauge bed leveling, no touchscreen...)
It's certainly a confusing product and I think I understand now why Angus didn't mention the price or provide a link in the description.
Sucks that they both have bowdens, though. Hoping we see a strong shift to direct drive systems in the near future. Makes me wonder if the only reason the Hurakan exists is because Biqu had a bunch of leftover frames that no one was buying, so they slapped Klipper on it and sell it as a 'new' printer? Hmm....
The duck is probably included for debugging purposes: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_duck_debugging
I tried klipper once on my ender 5 plus, which has a few part upgrades. I took me like 3 or 4 days to print all of the calibration things and things kept going wrong and I barely saw any difference. After 2 weeks I went back to the stock firmware with Astrobox running on a raspberry pi... I'm all for klipper, but don't make me do all that shit again. Sounds like they leave you with all the tools to make it a great printer while it's not necessarily a great printer out of the box.
I run Klipper on my Ender 3 as I'm constantly changing the firmware and tweaking things and also because the stock board has too little space to fit a firmware with all the marlin features I want, e.g. pressure/linear advance, ABL, etc.
One seemingly useful feature is that resonance compensation, but: It doesn't make sense on an i3/bed slinger style printer for 2 reasons:
1. These printers are pretty slow and the gain of resonance compensation only comes for printers using higher speeds liek a voron, ratrig, etc.
2. More importantly: The resonance of a system highly depends on the mass moving. So measuring the resonance of the x-axis of a bed slinger style printer is totally fine. Measuring the resonance for the moving bed/y-axis? No, that is obviously bullshit as the mass increases with printing. There is no point in time where the mass moving along y is constant, therefore measuring the resonance of the (empty) bed is pretty much useless unless you are printing air.
nice watermelon pants
what cooling do u have when u make the test?
Call me crazy but my klipper gets acceleretion values from superslicer perfectly well. Thats how I run external peramiters a bit les violantly while pushing insides to the limits. Ender 5 plus dd so my hotend is heeeeeeavy and those externals need to take it easier :)
hmm maybe I got misleading info, it was rejecting gcode commands from PS so I was informed to disable them, but maybe it's disable some but not all speed and accel overrides
yeah, I was gonna say: As long as I set the gcode flavor to Marling (legacy) in Prusa Slicer, I can use different accelerations for outer perimeters/infill etc. and Klipper is using them. In the klipper WebUI I can see, that the acceleration is changing accordingly when switching between outer perimeters and other features (only accel-to-decel is not changing). Not sure if slicer machine limits are also working.
I ve set acc to dec to some absurdly high value and I really just ignore it :> I've also set corner speed to just 1. Helps a lot with the x axis not stiff enough for the top heavy extruder. Thats the hero me dd conversion
@@MakersMuse SuperSlicer is, so far, the only slicer in the market that "speaks" Klipper g-code dialect natively, being a fork of PrusaSlicer it makes the transition fairly easy if you want to switch or at least test.
@@MakersMuse yep, you got misleading info! There are some commands that Klipper doesn't support "out of the box", but one can easily add then via the all-powerful Klipper macros!
At 139.00 dollars it is a good toy to start off with. If you don't mind the learning curve.
It’s baffling why they didn’t tune the machine at all, at at least provide guidelines in the documentation. Some starter values would have been nice, even if the user would need to tweak them for their specific machine to get the best results.
Hi Maker
Hey Angus... How did you know about removing the Micro SD card would corrupt the OS? Asking for a friend... lol
And curious on the clipper hardware. The CM4 clone is apparently less powerful but it's available.
the clone is basically a 3b+ in terms of speed
The “available” part is basically it’s main selling point.
How exactly do you know about not taking the micro sd card out while the printer is running?
It hard to make sense of BIQU's thinking when designing this printer. Yes, you can put Klipper on a v-wheeled i3 clone, but it seem a strange decision. I can only imagine that they had a load of spare parts that they thought they could sell by slapping Klipper on the printer (and not even bothering to tune it correctly).
I wonder if you could do a video on the issues of 3d-printing in Australia, eg availability, high price (comparatively), high cost of shipping etc etc. I suppose that would limit your exposure somewhat, but sure would be interesting to Australians.
But is there any of that? I've owned 8 printers both resin & FDM, almost every single one has had local Australian distribution direct from manufacturer, the price has seemingly been a direct conversion, and shipping has been normal. What Australia absolutely fails in is availability of printing services to people who do not own a printer. And availability/ease of aftermarket parts/mods.
Just order straight from China, we have it better than the US. Most legit companies have a local warehouse even.
bambulab p1p (if slight increase in price is not an issue) seems like a better choice with corexy and out of the box setup
@@MakersMuse. no thank you😜
Hmm. Is BQs rebranding of the Mainsail UI covered by the license?
Mainsail uses GPL 3.0 license. As long as BQ makes public any changes they make in the source code, it's fair game. But as a Mainsail user I can say they only changed the theme, the rest of the interface is absolutely the same.
how did i miss this video?
So far anything Biqu I've had in my possession never impressed me that much. Even the Orbiter v2's they sell weren't put together right. Luckily I could return the extruders, but I won't get anything Biqu again.
How do you know that you have to reinstall the entire operating system when you remove the sd card when the printer is running?
because I destroyed mine haha
Why duck? Because BIQU stands for BIg QUack. This is 100% genuine unconfirmed info
what did you do with your sound :-)?
Gotha, thank bye bye
Oh, did you say do something similar with the BIQU BX....hmmmm.....
Personally feel like this printer just doesn't need to exist. Besides a fancier firmware, it's basically yet another Ender 3 clone with v-wheels. It's 2023, we need to at least see more printers with linear bearings or linear rails. The Sovol SV06 doesn't really innovate as such, but it's still twice the printer that the Hurakan is in terms of the out of the box experience. Biqu should stick to making mainboards honestly. They do a grand job with the BigTreeTech line
I'd rather prefer BTT to release affordable core-xy model rather than, let's be honest, slightly improved B1.
You don't need the "own control-board" for Klipper, just any Raspberry Pi or other Linux system will do fine. And you'd be surprised how much it can improve performance of an Ender 3 (Pro in my case). Sure it still isn't a core-xy, but it can go so much faster without stuttering than OctoPrint+Marlin could on the same printer.
Has the Raspberry Pi shortage ended, then? I know for ages they were basically impossible to get, and was under the impression that a big part of the reason BTT made the Manta in the first place was because there weren't any Pis around.
Basically, BTT was using AllWinner chips since the big vendors (Microchip, NXP, ST Microelectronics, Broadcom) has run out of Linux-capable chips. BTT literally made their own CM4 module just so they can run Klipper in an embedded form factor.
@@davydatwood3158 As I said: "or other Linux system". I think you could even run Klipper in WSL2 on a Windows machine, the only tricky thing might be getting USB / serial access. That said, an old laptop or "nettop" can probably support 4 printers when you install Linux and Klipper on it. I have an Ender 3 Pro and a Sapphire Plus attached to the same PI3B and it has no problems controlling both printers in parallel.
Technically marlin now supports input shaping like Klipper so you get the speed increase for free, sure, the web interface is not available yet, but we will si
@@Lucas_sGarage I tried input shaping on Marlin some time ago and was actually disappointed. On my board (SKR mini E3 v2.0) input shaping depending on the config settings I was getting hang-ups, which I think might have been caused by the overhead of inout shaping causing the interrupt handling to no longer be solid. Anyhow, tweaking the config and turning off some unneeded stuff I did get a stable build, did the test-print to determing the input shaping parameters and ... again was disappointed by the result. Yes, it did reduce ringing a bit, but nowhere near what Klipper gives on the same printer (Ender 3 Pro). I think that Marlin having to run everything on the printer is just too much for the tiny STM32F1 on my board. Results might be better if you have a faster CPU on your board, but after this struggle I just Klipperized that Ender 3 as well - using a second Klipper instance on the Pi that already drove my Sapphire Plus - and then this STM32F1 is more than sufficient to see the full input shaping magic.
How do you know?
BOOM! Roasted
I'm here from roman3s.....
From the Echo reference😅😂
The price? I almost can buy 2x Elegoo Neptune PRO with 2xZ axis.