BM Advance is a great paint. It has a smoothness and luster that is simply beautiful. But because of its leveling properties, you have to be careful when spraying vertically. It will sag faster than SW Pro Classic. At first, I sprayed it with a light in my left hand with two light coats cross-hatched in each application and adjusted by distance and movement speed so that the paint is just congealing after the cross-hatched coat. Watch your previous work as you go and adjust if needed. A fine finish tip works best. The thinner coats (in my experience) leave a smoother finish on vertical work. Heavier coats (for me) have a very slight orange peel texture. It is not quite as "glass-like" as SW Sherwood Hi-bild Precat Lacquer. (And if you don't blow up or die from the fumes, that product is awesome! LOL) When painting paneled doors vertically, you need to recheck your work after five and ten minutes. It will drip easily at the lower corners of the panels. A quick swipe with your brush will fix it and it will not show. I think two thin coats when brushing or rolling looks nicer than two heavy coats. A mohair roller works well but a 3/8 knap also is fine. Just keep it thin. Prep your roller (any roller) with tape to remove fibers. They will show in this smooth surface. As for brushes, I like a Purdy Nylox brush. It has very fine fibers so it leaves less brush strokes. Lastly, we the paint become very hard, it takes a few weeks to reach maximum hardness. Do not set items on horizontal surfaces for AT LEAST a few days. Otherwise, the item may stick to the uncured paint. So, there is a little learning curve but this stuff is so 'pretty', it is worth it!
Similar to my experience. I thin it and fflp. 3 to 4 light coats. Actual cure time of advance in my experience is 4 days . I've actually done my own test. Still allot veriables to be evaluated. It will lay down but it's missing ingredients of course. Command is the way to go if it is allowed in your area. BM said it is coming to my area soon later this year at a lower voc.🙄 Can't wait.😆😃
@@laurieg66 what's the work around with the product. I challenge you. There is a way without ever having to touch with a brush. My solution was to heat the cabinets up with a heat lamp and then spray with no dilution. 60 mesh filter fflp 2 or 3 -8. Thats the only way I have found to get away with sags and drips with this product, hope it helps
I've painting my kitchen cabinets bathroom cabinets 3years ago and still looks fabulous, my suggestion for a roller is a Moe hair roller sold at Benjamin Moore stores, no lint and rolls beautifully, highly suggest Advance paint.
Hi Chris. Ive been using advance for several years now on cabinets. I'm in Canada , and product options are limited here. Its been a great paint for sure, I use it because of its durability once cured. Cabinets see lots of use and abuse for sure ! I don't do enough cabinet work to warrant having a shop to spray in, so I have been applying it with brush and microfiber rollers. It definitely does leave roller stippling, but so far its only bothered me and never a complaint from a client. I'm actually starting a set of cabinets tomorrow at our current site. Its an add-on, and a repeat client so I agreed. I usually allow about a week for a set of cabinets to accommodate the dry time. I have found the whites dont cover near as well as darker colors, so my go to routine is to double prime whites. I have been using prime lock as a bonding primer, but tomorrow will be picking up the advance primer to try for the first time. I found the prime lock was difficult to apply evenly due to its extremely quick dry time. The cabinet set I am doing is cloud white tops and whale gray bottoms, so I will just need one primer coat on the lower units. I noticed here you didn't prime at all ? That would be a real time saver ! I always worry about bonding, but after watching this video of yours I think I will find some test doors and try no primer at home. Every time I start one of these jobs I find myself wishing I had a space to spray. With the fflp tips for Graco I think it would be a breeze. I also have a 5 stage Fuji just crying to be used on cabinets !! Oh well, as I said, I just don't do them often enough, maybe 3 times a year. Thanks for the video ! Richard Tower, Manitoba Canada.
I used this paint with a roller on my old kitchen cabinets which were not even oak, but some old 70s compressed wood. The results were so great that a contractor walked into my kitchen and said these cabinets looked as if they came from the factory.
I also did 2 coats of primer on my cabinets after I stripped off 40 years of paint. (0 out of 10. Do not recommend. Lol but I can’t afford to rip them out for a few years. ). I used water-based stain blocking and then brushed on 2-3 coats of the paint. I can still see some of the oak grain but only if I look. They are miles away from the mystery paint that was painted over dirt/grease that I had. Love this finish. So glad I listened to the paint store guy and got this even if my wallet did cry a bit at the cost.
I used 1 year ago for painting kitchen and bathroom cabinets with a small foam roller. Still holding up like a dream. I did prime with Zinsser Bullseye 123
I am using this to paint my kitchen cabinets. I do not have a sprayer so I’m brushing it on. (They are panel front doors and the brush is just easier for me.). I found if I lightly mist with water prior to applying the paint it makes it easier for me. Do not soak the surface in water! Just a light mist on the surface. This does make the dry time a bit longer but it is worth it. Love this paint. Worth every penny.
Chris, I’ve used Advance for about four years now. I love it. I use it on my own house for the best and hardest finish. I like the way it feels after it has three coats better than any other water-based finish. It is like some of the finest oils in how it feels after it has hardened. For the best finish I give it three light coats and a wet sand after the second coat with 320. Piano like finish.
@@jstevens105 ‘wet sanding’ means using a damp sanding sponge on a dry cabinet door. This generates less dust, and may be more gentle than a dry sanding.
I am super late to the party but I am just a DiY home owner that loves painting. My local store introduced me to Advance. They told me to use Stix with it and, also, a Chinex brush. The best advertisement I can give for the stuff is that I sanded off crappy latex paint that a previous owner painted on my bannisters. I did two coats of Stix and sanded between and two coats of Advanced. 6 years later it still looks and feels perfect despite dirty kid hands constantly on it. I recently bought a Graco Mustang from the same store and I am going to attempt to spray Advance and I am nervous but looking forward to it. Thanks for posting this video, I really appreciate you sharing your spraying knowledge.
This is a great product. I’ve used a 1/4 “ Mohair or Velour mini Whizz roller. Reduces stipple and Orange peel. Looks like it was sprayed. Roll it on flat surfaces and do not back brush it. Great video.
I am a 60 year old amateur and I did my kitchen with this paint...I was amazed ..it is the most professional looking paint job and I used a roller!! Highly recommend but you need more time
Ive used BM advance on our cabinets & toe kick then on a few interior doors. Sprayed cabinets and foam rollers on the rest. Cab and toe kicks were 3 years ago still looks fantastic! Doors were 2 years ago and don’t look as good as sprayed cabinets but does looks very good. Cure time between coats is a pain but worth it knowing how well finish comes out.
thanks chris for your insights and continuous valued content. as a woodworker/cabinet/furniture maker building out a small side business with the intention to grow, i soon realized i had to add finishing to my repertoire of skills. most people are looking for a painted finish on cabinets and closets so figuring out paint and what to use was a bit of a challenge. i know i didn't want to deal with cleanup or potential flammability spraying non-water based products like lacquer. i also knew i didn't want to learn the intricacies of how to apply different products, and needed to land on one and learn that one well. i also know i am less concerned about the cost of tools or equipment that make my life easier and produce repeatable quality results, my time is worth more than most savings to be had with low-quality products. i first became aware of alkyd paint and what it was used for in tracking down issues related to a professional painter using the wrong type of paint to paint over a large custom builtin bookcase i wanted redone. i trusted that guy at the time, but i mean, really, if someone is a professional painter and don't about the difference between wall paint and what to use for cabinets and furniture? if nothing else, google it or look up the idaho painter channel on youtube?!? in the end i invested in arguable best-of-class fuji hvlp and the pricier but worth every penny (IMO) BM Advance paint combo. between the quality of the sprayer and the qualities of this paint, it more than makes up for my shortcomings as a spray finisher. i worry sometimes about all my little mistakes, but i come back in a few hours, and they are not noticeable. i get consistent professional quality results. my cabinet and closet finishes receive comments like "it looks like it were powder coated" or "factory". that's good enough for me. and that built in i had painted, now i have the tools to do it myself the right way with the right finish.
Thank you for great content! The detail and experience of your review are appreciated, especially for those applications where you can't really spray and need to roll or brush.
I sprayed cabinets this week with advance. 2 coats stix bonding primer and 1 coat advance. Came out nice. Wanted to do another finish coat but contractor didn’t want me to
Should have done it anyways you know best as a painter. But I understand when your working under someone else. Take pride in your work your the painter you know what's best
I had rolled several doors and was impressed. Night before vacation I painted the base cabinet floors. Where we keep the big pans, cast iron and the like. A week later I threw everything back in and have never even had a scratch. Cleans up once a year or so with dish soap and a sponge to a mirror. Hard as heck.
I used this to spray our stairs. Turned out beautiful! I used the BM Stix primer before spraying. Lays down like glass. If your paint is coming off; then you are not prepping your surface properly.
Thank you for this video, I was afraid to try this on somebody's cabinets for the first time because I had never used it but it was recommended by my paint rep. But now I see it is beautiful and is quite easy to work with. Thanks again
Advance paint has been reformulated and now has a taupe colored label. Painting cabinets in Satin sheen for husband’s workshop and the first quart was awful. It had a different label gray with rainbow. Didn’t flow, dried too fast. Went to a different store and bought the reformulated paint. What a difference!! Unsure of what happened the first time but cabinets look beautiful..Agean Teal
I'm sure you've used one before, but I'm gonna suggest using a Purdy Synth-Ox (synthetic ox hair) because they are the finest grade of synthetic bristle I've ever seen and they really do you lay down a super smooth finish. I started helping my grandfather painting at age 9 in 1972 and I've been doing it full-time since 1980. It's not just a job for me it is me, it's what defines me, it is a way of life. A Worcester yachtsman marine varnish brush might work well also, but it probably won't be any good for anything other than a duster after one shot because anytime I've ever used an oil brush in anything that has water in it the brush swells up like a dead possum and is no longer good for anything but a duster, but while it's working it works great, especially for not leaving brush marks, but it's never the same again. It's the same as when you use a varnish brush in an oil stain they swell up and there never any more good for anything other than stain and varnish. They actually make the varnish go on smoother after they've been used in stain, but the brush is so swollen you can't cut in a good straight line with it. It makes the bristles softer and makes the varnish lay down better after it's been used in oil stain. I always kept my stain and varnish brushes separate specifically for that purpose because when you use them in paint I don't care how good you wash them in mineral spirits you get a little bit of white flecks from paint in your varnish which shows up in your stain work. It's too late after you put a coat of varnish over your stain and you see little white paint specks in the Finish which looks like crap. I'm sure you already know all this as long as you've been painting and as much experience as you have. I was just throwing this out there for the novice who might read it. I'll have to try this new Benjamin Moore paint and see what I think of it. God bless you your crew and all of your families!! Give me an NC....
Been using Advance for years. Awesome product. When spraying with it I’ve found a .308 fflp tip is a good size to help prevent runs. Also when I’m done spraying I use fans to help with the set up time to prevent runs.
With Advance being a hybrid paint it won’t yellow like a traditional oil based paint will. Say like Impervo. Regardless. Neither of those products will yellow as fast as people might be telling you.
I've used the Advance on my trim and doors and my kitchen cabinets and I'm obsessed with it!! I love that it has a leveling agent especially with brushing. It's also super durable.
Thank you so much for this review! Painting my builder basic oak kitchen cabinets soon and will be going with this paint after all the positive reviews!
Just started using BM Advanced for hallway doors and wall base. This video was just what I needed ! Moving forward with more confidence now …… thanks :)
We have always used Sherwin Williams pro classic for cabinets. And super paint for trim. I have never used BM paint because they don’t have paint stores and are mostly sold my 3rd party companies so that makes it really hard for us to work with them
Advance is great 👍I came up doing really nice work with Satin Impervo oil which is unavailable in Delaware and Advance is the best modified I've come across in all these years that behaves and looks like an oil
I've used this product for about 7 years. Im pleased with it. One trick I do when I roll the cabinets to get a smooth finish is to sand after first coat (which it sands very well) and then add a little water to thin it on final coat. It will have little to no stipple after it dries. I've done many cabinets for customers with this method and all have been happy. I can't always spray especially if they are living there so I usually brush and roll the cabinets.
@@aleksandarmaksimovic4265 fine finish mini rollers. The brand "Whiz" makes good brushes and roller covers. I get it at Spectrum Paint. (My favorite paint store)
I really like it. Learning curve. But it’s quality stuff especially if you have to brush it. I’ll be spraying out my new house first time home buyer recently. Will be nice to actually paint my own house for once ! Rock on painters 🤙🏻
I use this product to spray my kitchen jobs and every customer says they look brand new like factory. I love this product. I use a graco 395 ultra with the contractor gun and a 312 fine finish tip. Awesome video🤙
This is my favorite trim paint. It's all I use, if left up to me. I spray, brush, and roll it. Most trim jobs I do I only have time for one coat per day anyway. It's great for hand railings and shelves. It doesn't block, (stick to things sitting on the shelf) and no dirty hand railings like latex paint.
It is by far the best non-oil-based brush trim paint on the market in my experience and if you work quickly and don't overwork, it will level better. If you wait more than a few seconds, the brush marks will tend to show up more--not nearly as much as any other paint, but its leveling properties taper very quickly to the point where you have to be careful not to double back on something you just touched seconds before. You'll know when your brush drags too much that you've waited to long. It should be a very smooth feel. Cover the entire piece to get it saturated, then get a nice a full final stroke where you feel the smooth pull on the brush (no sticking or skipping) and go end to end and don't go back. Always use long, smooth, and straight strokes. The slower you have to go to avoid that sticking or skipping feeling on the brush, the more it's a sign you're not working fast enough. Best brush for this by far are the Zebra brushes. Tried them all. Nothing beats them for trim work.
I tried to paint 8 ft baseboards with Advance. I was afraid to use too much paint because I read that a thin coat is required to prevent runs. I began with a sponge roller. It left orange peel that looked like 80 grit sandpaper. Within seconds, I went back to lightly brush out the finish. The brush dragged. The finish looks horrible and the sides still have sagging. No impressed with this paint at all.
I love these paint reviews. I'd love to see Durapoxy HP in one of these tests. We found that Durapoxy HP is very similar to Advance in performance, with faster dry time, and cures a little harder with higher scuff resistance.
Just a quick reply without any research on my end... where do you buy the product and is it waterborne? Ia always looking for new products to add to the arsenal. My feeling on Advance is that it is a very good product. I do feel like I'm leaving something on the table without using a lacquer or similar product, so I'm also interested in learning about other finishes.
I use Benjamin Moore advance a lot.. cabinets I like vinyl sealer. Graco 695. 412 tip green fine finish at about 1300-1600 psi. Brushing and rolling you want to put it on as fast as possible and leave it alone. Microfiber roller cover FTP China-x a little bit of floetrol. Also a ox hair brush works really well.
This is the best paint for doing cabinets and trim & doors out right now next to using lacquers. This product covers amazing and it will relieve a lot of this brush marks. It has excellent block resistance as well so no sticky doors when opening or setting things on top like with shelves. If you can’t spray this is the best product on the market, period!
I have used this product a TON over the last few years. I have used it for cabinets, trim, etc. There are a few keys to this. I have tried a 4-stage Fuji HVLP. No good. It wouldn't atomize the paint unless you thin it a lot. With an airless and FFLP tips it produces amazing results. It is super durable, and levels very well. It brushes and rolls well. I like mohair rollers for any rolled cabinet face frames, etc. The only issue- you MUST use a good primer, and do at least 2 coats. Sand between coats for sure. I use 320 between coats. I also like BIN primer. I have tried STIX, but have been less than impressed. I am super happy to see this review! We have done lots of kitchen cabinet projects with this material, and have never had callbacks!
@@LUckybones25 have either of you gents ever used it to interior paint walls? I got it on clearance for basically nothing so figured it was worth a shot to paint the inside of a garage.
@@emsmkivgolf it would be a really durable finish, that's for sure! I have used Scuff-X on some things in the recent past, and have had good luck with that too. It is marketed as their most durable paint, and I can see that being possible. Either way- you shouldn't be disappointed!
@@joshuareed3999 thanks for the reply. I ended up using it a couple weeks ago. Primed with 123 and rolled two coats. I didn’t think the smell was all that bad, certainly not as bad as 123. I did get some orange peel in spots that was probably user error. Besides it’s just in my garage so I didn’t need it perfect. So far very happy with the results for a paint I basically got at 70% off.
@@emsmkivgolf that's awesome. My local Ben Moore will give me any of their oops cans, but they do sell most for $5-$10. Much better than seeing it go in the landfill! I'm glad it worked out!
Advance is an Amazing trim paint. I have been brushing trim with it for years now. Looks sprayed even when brushed on crown and base. It's even caused arguments between trades on big jobs about whether it was sprayed or brushed. The issue is not really dry time, it's cure time. It's about a 21 day cure. When doing cabinets, advance may be better but Cabinet Coat dries faster and cures faster, just not as strong IMO. If it's cool in a home watch out for sagging or runs. Other than some small things, this is my go to for all crown and base.
I tried to paint baseboards with Advance laid flat on sawhorses. The paint dragged and left horrible brush marks. the edges ran too, even though I tried to paint only a very thin coat. I will never use it again. I'm debating whether to buy another product for the second coat:(
This paint does NOT have a 4 hour “open” time. Also, it can be fussy to work with. If you overwork it, it starts getting fuzzy. Put it on quick, and leave it alone. Check for sags a about five minutes after applying it.
Agreed! I have learned to leave it alone almost immediately after applying. I don't see the promise of being able to mess with it for long. Every time I've gone back to "fix" something (within minutes) I've regretted it. Also I'm fairly new to spraying and am having a hell of a time spraying the inside of a small box. Either it ends up with runs or I get stippling because don't apply enough paint in an attempt to avoid runs. (And yes, I know not to start or stop above the surface.) I'd love a video on how to paint on 3-D surfaces or on the inside of things without them turning out like crap! Lol! Anyone with suggestion, please, please help!!!
I think you mentioned the dry time 5 or 6 times but did not address whether or thinning is necessary and what to sand with between coats. Primer underneath and what brand? How would this work with a HVLP sprayer? Would this paint be good in bathroom c idling and walls? What sheen were you using?
I used this paint on a 2 sets of kitchen cabinets and the results were excellent. I am not a professional painter but not have a lot of experience painting. I sprayed the work with a portable Graco hand sprayer with excellent results. Here is what I found: 1 - Don't spray heavy - I sprayed all doors in the vertical hanging position and if you are too heavy on the thickness you will get sags at the rail and stile intersections if not careful. 2 - Temperature is extremely important. I found that the closer to 70F or less, the better the leveling. On the first set of doors i sprayed at 80+F and found that a significant amount of stippling was evident. While the paint says it takes 4-6 hours to dry, I don't think so at all. Note there is a big difference between drying and curing. The hotter day made the paint stipple because the water in the paint evaporated too quickly and did not allow the paint to level at all. I applied the second coat at 70F after sanding and got perfect results. 3 - Sanding the first coat - I waited 24 hours to sand the first coat. I found that the cure was not hard enough in just 16 hours to do a good sanding job. The paint clogged the paper too easily until a 24 hours cure time elapsed. 4 - The finish actually needs a lot of time to fully harden so you have to be gentle with the surfaces after painting. After a month of babying the doors this paint finish is really tough and hard as you would expect from a alkyd enamel. I will use this again. BTW - In some cases I needed to do some hand brushing and I really would caution against working the paint too much. remember it does not take much longer than a regular latex to skin and of course the temp governs the amount of time here. I also contacted BM for an extender recommendation and the could not provide one because they have not tested any yet with this product. But as you say, this paint right out of the can is thin enough and further thinning with water or glycol would just compound the sagging issue on vertical surfaces.
thanks Chris, i needed this viseo today! DIY, here, first time sprayer. Using a Wagner Flexio 5000. Spray my primer at 45s (kilsz2, ford #4, 25% diluted with water) but after two doors, some chunks of paint appear on the surface (air gets pretty hot by then). I've was timid to dilute the BM advance as much as the primer and didnt get much flow, or a smooth finish. i git enough down to leave some top coat after sanding the rough surface off.. Like Chris says, it's a buttery soft finish, albiet after sanding. if I had to do it over, I'd spring for a higher end HVLP sprayer, I've put a lot of time in trying to figure out the interplay of all the variables. With more power, the learning curve wouldnt have been so painful Today, I will dilute to 45s and try again..I hope the paint holds up and goes down smoother. Update later. Peace to all😊
Wonderful review. Was wondering if you've ever reviewed our might consider reviewing Dutch Boy Platinum Plus Cabinet, Door, and Trim paint. I'm advised by the sales person that it will cover over the grain of my golden oak cabinets without using any grain filler before painting. I have doubts about this.
Good review, we have tried it but found it a nightmare on flush doors, we was not spraying, it would have been good if sprayed but edges dried so fast, we mainly use a water based by Caparol, we find it covers well and goes on nice.
I just used this paint for my kitchen, I was very excited for the extended open time... Apparently that doesn't apply to Idaho in the winter, because mine dried to the touch in about 45 minutes. Drove me nuts. Looks great still though, even though I did get slight texture due to rolling. I rolled the cabinet faces due to not wanting to mask the kitchen with a wife and three kids, but I sprayed the door and drawers and they look great :) BUT the open time is for sure dependent on where you're from and what time of year it is.
I've always had trouble with Advance running and sagging a lot. I've had some good turnouts on it as well. I'm on the fence about the product but after seeing this I'm thinking I will give it another shot and use some of the knowledge you dropped in this video to see if I have a better outcome. Thanks Chris you always do a wonderful job with these paint reviews.
Same here. I had sooooo many runs and sags with this product when I built and installed cabs for a home office. I swore it off from that point on, but this review is making me rethink it a little. I currently use Scuff-X for cabs, with Stix primer as a base, and am happy with the results, but always nice to have different products to try and recommend.
@@JohnWilliams-cu4cc if you like stix, use their cabinet coat. It's much better than advance. Faster cure, smoother finish and way better adhesion too!
I had problem with runs too but I started to run a fan ( just a normal house fan) to the freshly sprayed cabinets and that prevented my runs even with a heavier coat.
Great video, I’m starting a project on my own furniture tomorrow, I have a Henredon credenza which I will try with my Flexio 5500 🙏 hoping I don’t mess up … following your advice carefully. I’ve tried this paint before on doors and trim and it is the best I have ever used.
Use BM STYX PRIMER FOLLOWED WITH BM ADVANCE SATIN. 2 coats primer, 2 coats finish. My prep was extensive and tedious. Primer is FANTASTIC . Advance coats were 20 hours apart. All this about a 6 drying time is baloney. My finish coat was dry to touch in 40 mins. Sanded between all coats, rolled with Micro fiber. Super smooth. My old plywood doors look like Vinyl wrapped now cabinets. Mind you I filled all edges and sanded
I’ve used Advance since 2012 for about 90% of my trim and mill work. A couple additional points I’ll add. - I think it’s the best out there for large/long flat surfaces but the penchant for runs exacerbated by corners. Check and recheck for runs when brushing. Brushed crown and base looks immaculate. - The price is a huge selling point. Before the events of the last year even DIYers could get it for $50/gal at hardware stores that sell BM (ACE, Do It Best franchises). Same as I pay at a BM store. - You have to be insanely meticulous with dust. Even a little bit will gum up your brush and render it useless. - I don’t like the deep base. That’s the one situation I’ll use Emerald Urethane instead. Advance deep base tends to remain somewhat sticky to the touch and even looks that way. - I don’t know if something changed in the formulation but over the last few years I’ve had issues with air bubbles when rolling and I’ve done everything to eliminate the usual causes.
Paint stores can be a retailer of it if your area supports the need for it since it's very expensive. But all of their products are fantastic and probably the best covering power of any paint. Hollandlac brilliant is in a class of its own and the only other paint we get that kind of gloss with is actual automotive urethane
Had some old kitchen and even older cabinets in my garage that i used Stix® Waterborne Bonding Primer and then the Benjamin Moore Advance Paint. Everything was brush and roller painting. Cabinets came out great. Almost too nice to hang back in my garage, but I did. Going to use same products and techniques to redo my kitchen cabinets in my Florida home. Loved the drying racks you used. Maybe I will get some. Nice video!
Extremely thorough video much appreciated. We just bought an older home and are going to use this product to paint our oak cabinets. We have a paint sprayer though a relatively inexpensive one. I’m thinking after watching this we might spray the doors and removable parts and use a moe hair roller on the vertical hardware. Just have to decide if we need to use a primer first or just sanding and two coats of the Advance.
I've been using the advance since my guy at Ben Moore gave me 2 sample gallons as soon as it hit their store about 3 years ago. First project we sprayed a big shiplap sunroom and an open fireplace layout also shiplap, 2 coats and it all looked like white glass! Unless a customer insists on using a product of their choice, the advanced is all I use for my interior work! Also the proof is in your prep work people! We all know the better the prep job, the better the finish product!
How do you get it to look so smooth... My husband has been at it for days and can't get the texture right, he keeps getting an orange texture, any tips?
@@lixrvs6853 hmmm strange... I've not run into that problem. Only thing I can think of it may the surface hes applying it to? You will get discoloration if the surface isn't primed and you just paint over bare wood especially like pine or knots...
@@russellgage744 Thanks for the reply. That tip would shoot a lot of paint. Chris used a 208 and 410. Do you move really fast to still get thin coats or are you just laying down 1 coat? Would you use the 515 on cabinets? I'm using Advance on cabinets for the first time and appreciate any advice.
when i do cabinets i use alkyd primer that you sand then we paint two coats with a roller anc corners with brush never had marks of brush but the trick is to seal and sand so its flatter and absorb the same… when started using that over a decade ago i didnt use primer and had those different mark almost invisible but if you look you could find them
As a DIY'er used Advance to paint a kitchen with a lot of cabinets. I rolled it using a short mohair roller without overworking it, left it overnight between coats. To speed things up I used Benjamin Moore Regal in the same color/finish for cutting the cabinet interiors. Also built a simple drying rack to hold 20 or so cabinet doors at a time. Even so, it still took a long time (many days) to get everything done. The paint goes a long way, levels out beautifully, coverage is excellent with two coats (I primed). Best thing I can say is it doesn't look rolled, at all. Would use it again.
@@Avital4414 I didn't lay out with a brush and it dried very nice with just a roller (like sprayed on). Also, I found the paint didn't like being messed with once it was on.
I agree that Advance levels out really well. I'm using automotive type HVLP gun and compressor. It's really forgiving on cabinet work. Thanks for your review.
Used a rac x fflp 310 tip and sprayed over 500 lf of base and 800 lf of door and window casing - very good product and drips sand out good, no peeling!
You did an awesome job at explaining the different techniques. I was curious if you thought that I needed to use the Advance Primer on new MDF cabinet doors and drawer fronts?
I use Advance for trim work. When it comes to cabinets, I spray a flat paint and then do a satin or semi gloss clear coat. That’s the best durability in my opinion. When you need to wipe/wash the cabinets down, it won’t affect the color itself.
I have tried everything. Seriously. Flat paint with Ben Moore "Stays Clear" over it. Regal in every sheen they make. Advance in every sheen from flat to semi-gloss. Where I landed after lots and lots of time and effort- clean and de-gloss with TSP. Sand lightly. Reclean. Prime with BIN- an absolute must after trying literally every primer out there. Paint with Advance Satin using an airless set to 1500-1600 psi with Rac X 310 FFLP tip. You do not need to thin the paint at all. Let dry for an entire day. Sand lightly with 320. Paint again. Let dry an entire day. If another coat is needed (unlikely) you can repeat the process of sanding and painting. This finish is beautiful, durable, and I have done this tons of times at this point. I tried getting into Pre-Cat Lacquer, but couldn't find anyone else to make tinted lacquers thanks to our lovely EPA. This is the best finish you can put on cabinets unless you have a special spray booth, etc. I have tried it all. Don't bother with Emerald Urethane, Pro-Classic, 2-3 step processes, etc. I hope this helps someone else. It took a ton of time over the last few years to figure all of this out!!
@@joshuareed3999 I know you commented a while back.. but thought I’d ask three questions since you’ve used other paints as well. First, have you tried it with STIX primer rather than BIN, if so, was it better with one or the other? Second, I’m considering INSL-X cabinet coat for cabinets.. have you tried that for cabinets, if so, how did it compare? Third, have you noticed Advance yellowing when using a whiteish color over time?
I've been using Advance for years, and I love it for crownmolding, baseboards, windows and doors , but I prefer INSLYX Cabinet Coat for cabinets. It sprays out beautiful, and will also look great when brushed and rolled. The Cabinet Coat cures out faster and doesn't run as easily as the Advance. I had a couple of issues with Advance chipping next to the cabinet door handles from women's finger nails, because it does take 30 days to completely cure, while the Cabinet Coat only takes 7 days. And I haven't had any issues since I started using the CC. One other note, I also like to first do 1 coat of INSLYX STYX primer to ensure proper adhesion, but not always necessary because Cabinet Coat will adhere to many substrates on it own.
That’s what i do but with advance (stix and advance) i have wanted to try cabinet paint because too but i have not tried it yet . Compared to advance will you definitely choose cc instead of advanced you said? I Would try it because i need to recoat it faster
I unfortunately used a RACX 515 tip and while I though it flow-coated beautifully, I walked away to clean up and came back about 15 minutes later to an absolute horror show of drips and runs. Hoping it sands out once dried.
Here in Massachusetts it's the most popular paint for trim and cabinets. If you thin it with thin x latex paint thinner you will get the best finish. There's a finesse to use the paint. No brush strokes
@@Avital4414 Never back brush. I use Picaso brushes only. They work great on thick or thinned paint. These brushes allow you to take long strokes. Thin the paint it will make you smile at the finish results.
Great video. Thanks for all the helpful info you've been giving us. I have 80s oak cabinets and want to paint them with a brush & roller. After watching your videos I decided on BM Advance. The idea was, Coverstain oil bonding primer, then BM Fresh Start water based primer, then 2 coats of Advance. Went to BM store and they said that since I'm using the coverstain primer, I won't need the water based Fresh Start on top of that. What's your opinion on skipping Fresh Start? I don't want unnecessary work but at the same time I don't want to screw it up. Thanks Tom
Thanks for the video. I love advance paint. I also started using its equivalent Benjamin moore Coretech "Command" which drys and cures super fast. Perhaps you can do a video on that someday.
Ive struggled to use this when brushed or rolled. I do live in the desert so maybe the low humidity is causing issues. I end up spraying it and it works well.
Great video as always. Rock on Chris! I’m installing new doors and trim and need a good paint to match a bright white on Beyer’s Ultra White Semi gloss. Would this be good for doors? Recommendations?
Great product with beautiful finish but the dry time is too slow for me. I use Sherman Williams emerald enamel now which is almost as nice a finish but way faster dry and cure time but still levels just about as good. I do have to say the satin finish is nicer on the advanced for sure but the emerald enamel semi gloss looks just like the advanced
Aristoshield for Dunn Edwards is the best!! Bathrooms with oil finish oh doors with oil… i primer first with zinser cover stain primer and the aristoshield is the best finish dry like oil best!!!!
I've been using it for years! That stuff is the only thing I'll use. When you can't spray the body of cabs, it is super cooperative to roll, doesn't smell horrible and sprays like a dream!
Advance is a great product but the deal killer is the dry and recoat time. Also the longer a finish takes to dry the higher the probability of picking up air born dust. Cure time seems like weeks where the finish will stick to itself such as a cabinet door touching a face frame. I think it's best suited for the DIY'ers where time isn't money
When I first started using Advance years back I also had trouble with runs. I find using a rac-x fflp .308 tip helps and when I’m done spraying I turn on fans to help speed up the set time I don’t get that many runs anymore.
@@ericdahlberg6595 I'm not a "cabinet painter" spraying airless. but a woodworking shop using HVLP. Advance runs and sags isn't the issue, it's recoat and cure times. Time is money so in our shop we use a lot of waterborne "lacquer systems", Kema Aqua (SW) and Agualente (ML CAmpbell) where recoat time is 20 minutes not 16 hours. If I'm going to be painting finished work, I think I would choose SW Emerald where the recoat time is a few hours. Not debating just sharing experiences.
Best paying for cabinets in my opinion it is great to spray and a pain in the ass to brush but we usually water it down and brush it if you can figure it out it’s amazing
My two favorites! BM Advance and Paint Life in the same place! I know you’re normally a 310 tip guy on trim, but you used a 208 here. Any preference/concerns for this product with either size tip?
16 hours drying time is ok for a second coat but is not enough time for moving the cabinets doors to the client house. Let it more time to cure before transporting and pack them carefully . If you move the pieces next day after you have sprayed you will need an art brush for touch ups. You have to keep the pieces in you shop longer before move them. Six months after I sprayed a kitchen, the same client required me for painting some walls and I had a moment to evaluate the Advance pearl finish at a blind spot: hard coat.
The thing that I’ve noticed as well is it does not remain open for a long time, I’ve only used certain now but I don’t think that would make a difference, but it starts to dry very very fast I wish it did remain open for as long as it says. But the finish is just like you say it is just like a oil paint
BM Advance is a great paint. It has a smoothness and luster that is simply beautiful. But because of its leveling properties, you have to be careful when spraying vertically. It will sag faster than SW Pro Classic. At first, I sprayed it with a light in my left hand with two light coats cross-hatched in each application and adjusted by distance and movement speed so that the paint is just congealing after the cross-hatched coat. Watch your previous work as you go and adjust if needed. A fine finish tip works best. The thinner coats (in my experience) leave a smoother finish on vertical work. Heavier coats (for me) have a very slight orange peel texture. It is not quite as "glass-like" as SW Sherwood Hi-bild Precat Lacquer. (And if you don't blow up or die from the fumes, that product is awesome! LOL)
When painting paneled doors vertically, you need to recheck your work after five and ten minutes. It will drip easily at the lower corners of the panels. A quick swipe with your brush will fix it and it will not show.
I think two thin coats when brushing or rolling looks nicer than two heavy coats. A mohair roller works well but a 3/8 knap also is fine. Just keep it thin. Prep your roller (any roller) with tape to remove fibers. They will show in this smooth surface. As for brushes, I like a Purdy Nylox brush. It has very fine fibers so it leaves less brush strokes.
Lastly, we the paint become very hard, it takes a few weeks to reach maximum hardness. Do not set items on horizontal surfaces for AT LEAST a few days. Otherwise, the item may stick to the uncured paint.
So, there is a little learning curve but this stuff is so 'pretty', it is worth it!
Thanks for sharing.
Similar to my experience. I thin it and fflp. 3 to 4 light coats. Actual cure time of advance in my experience is 4 days . I've actually done my own test. Still allot veriables to be evaluated. It will lay down but it's missing ingredients of course. Command is the way to go if it is allowed in your area. BM said it is coming to my area soon later this year at a lower voc.🙄 Can't wait.😆😃
Thanks for this. Your info helps with knowing how to brush vertically as well as spraying.
@@laurieg66 what's the work around with the product. I challenge you. There is a way without ever having to touch with a brush. My solution was to heat the cabinets up with a heat lamp and then spray with no dilution. 60 mesh filter fflp 2 or 3 -8. Thats the only way I have found to get away with sags and drips with this product, hope it helps
After u sand of course so the poor's on the wood are opened. Dry them at room temp and it will be glass finish
I've painting my kitchen cabinets bathroom cabinets 3years ago and still looks fabulous, my suggestion for a roller is a Moe hair roller sold at Benjamin Moore stores, no lint and rolls beautifully, highly suggest Advance paint.
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What color did you use. Some are saying yellowing with white tones. Did you experience that if you used whites. Thx
감사
Instablaster.
Did you notice any yellowing if you used white or light color?
Hi Chris. Ive been using advance for several years now on cabinets. I'm in Canada , and product options are limited here. Its been a great paint for sure, I use it because of its durability once cured. Cabinets see lots of use and abuse for sure ! I don't do enough cabinet work to warrant having a shop to spray in, so I have been applying it with brush and microfiber rollers. It definitely does leave roller stippling, but so far its only bothered me and never a complaint from a client. I'm actually starting a set of cabinets tomorrow at our current site. Its an add-on, and a repeat client so I agreed. I usually allow about a week for a set of cabinets to accommodate the dry time. I have found the whites dont cover near as well as darker colors, so my go to routine is to double prime whites. I have been using prime lock as a bonding primer, but tomorrow will be picking up the advance primer to try for the first time. I found the prime lock was difficult to apply evenly due to its extremely quick dry time. The cabinet set I am doing is cloud white tops and whale gray bottoms, so I will just need one primer coat on the lower units. I noticed here you didn't prime at all ? That would be a real time saver ! I always worry about bonding, but after watching this video of yours I think I will find some test doors and try no primer at home. Every time I start one of these jobs I find myself wishing I had a space to spray. With the fflp tips for Graco I think it would be a breeze. I also have a 5 stage Fuji just crying to be used on cabinets !! Oh well, as I said, I just don't do them often enough, maybe 3 times a year. Thanks for the video ! Richard Tower, Manitoba Canada.
I used this paint with a roller on my old kitchen cabinets which were not even oak, but some old 70s compressed wood. The results were so great that a contractor walked into my kitchen and said these cabinets looked as if they came from the factory.
I use this for all my cabinets. I do use 2 coats of an oil based stain blocking primer and 2 coats of advanced and it makes the cabinets look amazing.
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I also did 2 coats of primer on my cabinets after I stripped off 40 years of paint. (0 out of 10. Do not recommend. Lol but I can’t afford to rip them out for a few years. ). I used water-based stain blocking and then brushed on 2-3 coats of the paint. I can still see some of the oak grain but only if I look. They are miles away from the mystery paint that was painted over dirt/grease that I had.
Love this finish. So glad I listened to the paint store guy and got this even if my wallet did cry a bit at the cost.
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I used 1 year ago for painting kitchen and bathroom cabinets with a small foam roller. Still holding up like a dream. I did prime with Zinsser Bullseye 123
Does it scratch easy? Thanks
@@domlowe4760no it doesn’t scratch hold up well for. few years guaranteed
I am using this to paint my kitchen cabinets. I do not have a sprayer so I’m brushing it on. (They are panel front doors and the brush is just easier for me.). I found if I lightly mist with water prior to applying the paint it makes it easier for me. Do not soak the surface in water! Just a light mist on the surface. This does make the dry time a bit longer but it is worth it.
Love this paint. Worth every penny.
Chris, I’ve used Advance for about four years now. I love it. I use it on my own house for the best and hardest finish. I like the way it feels after it has three coats better than any other water-based finish. It is like some of the finest oils in how it feels after it has hardened. For the best finish I give it three light coats and a wet sand after the second coat with 320. Piano like finish.
Never thought to wet sand it. What advance finish are you using? Thanks!
Wet sand?
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What do you mean by wet sand? Actually sanding it while it's wet? How many hours do you wait till sanding?
@@jstevens105 ‘wet sanding’ means using a damp sanding sponge on a dry cabinet door. This generates less dust, and may be more gentle than a dry sanding.
We did it ourselves on our kitchen cabinets about a 1 year ago and absolutely love it! We sprayed our cabinets.
Can you tell me if you use Sami glass or glossy? I'm trying to do my kitchen and I Do not know which one to use. Thanks
@@mercedesbouchard5118 We used semi gloss. The paint is really amazing! Washes off nicely and looks still like new.
I am super late to the party but I am just a DiY home owner that loves painting. My local store introduced me to Advance. They told me to use Stix with it and, also, a Chinex brush. The best advertisement I can give for the stuff is that I sanded off crappy latex paint that a previous owner painted on my bannisters. I did two coats of Stix and sanded between and two coats of Advanced. 6 years later it still looks and feels perfect despite dirty kid hands constantly on it. I recently bought a Graco Mustang from the same store and I am going to attempt to spray Advance and I am nervous but looking forward to it. Thanks for posting this video, I really appreciate you sharing your spraying knowledge.
This is a great product. I’ve used a 1/4 “ Mohair or Velour mini Whizz roller. Reduces stipple and Orange peel. Looks like it was sprayed. Roll it on flat surfaces and do not back brush it. Great video.
Thanks for sharing!
I am a 60 year old amateur and I did my kitchen with this paint...I was amazed ..it is the most professional looking paint job and I used a roller!! Highly recommend but you need more time
What type of roller did you use. Thx
@@leelastoma5809 I used a brush on inside ridges then a small foam roller
Ive used BM advance on our cabinets & toe kick then on a few interior doors. Sprayed cabinets and foam rollers on the rest. Cab and toe kicks were 3 years ago still looks fantastic! Doors were 2 years ago and don’t look as good as sprayed cabinets but does looks very good. Cure time between coats is a pain but worth it knowing how well finish comes out.
thanks chris for your insights and continuous valued content. as a woodworker/cabinet/furniture maker building out a small side business with the intention to grow, i soon realized i had to add finishing to my repertoire of skills. most people are looking for a painted finish on cabinets and closets so figuring out paint and what to use was a bit of a challenge. i know i didn't want to deal with cleanup or potential flammability spraying non-water based products like lacquer. i also knew i didn't want to learn the intricacies of how to apply different products, and needed to land on one and learn that one well. i also know i am less concerned about the cost of tools or equipment that make my life easier and produce repeatable quality results, my time is worth more than most savings to be had with low-quality products. i first became aware of alkyd paint and what it was used for in tracking down issues related to a professional painter using the wrong type of paint to paint over a large custom builtin bookcase i wanted redone. i trusted that guy at the time, but i mean, really, if someone is a professional painter and don't about the difference between wall paint and what to use for cabinets and furniture? if nothing else, google it or look up the idaho painter channel on youtube?!?
in the end i invested in arguable best-of-class fuji hvlp and the pricier but worth every penny (IMO) BM Advance paint combo. between the quality of the sprayer and the qualities of this paint, it more than makes up for my shortcomings as a spray finisher. i worry sometimes about all my little mistakes, but i come back in a few hours, and they are not noticeable. i get consistent professional quality results. my cabinet and closet finishes receive comments like "it looks like it were powder coated" or "factory". that's good enough for me. and that built in i had painted, now i have the tools to do it myself the right way with the right finish.
How would you prep to re-do already white lacquered cabinets with this?
Thank you for great content! The detail and experience of your review are appreciated, especially for those applications where you can't really spray and need to roll or brush.
I sprayed cabinets this week with advance. 2 coats stix bonding primer and 1 coat advance. Came out nice. Wanted to do another finish coat but contractor didn’t want me to
Should have done it anyways you know best as a painter. But I understand when your working under someone else. Take pride in your work your the painter you know what's best
Dang, I hate it when someone else tells you "that's good enough"
I had rolled several doors and was impressed. Night before vacation I painted the base cabinet floors. Where we keep the big pans, cast iron and the like. A week later I threw everything back in and have never even had a scratch. Cleans up once a year or so with dish soap and a sponge to a mirror. Hard as heck.
I used this to spray our stairs. Turned out beautiful! I used the BM Stix primer before spraying. Lays down like glass. If your paint is coming off; then you are not prepping your surface properly.
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They have changed it over the years. This year is definitely the best version! Superior touch up!
Thank you for this video, I was afraid to try this on somebody's cabinets for the first time because I had never used it but it was recommended by my paint rep. But now I see it is beautiful and is quite easy to work with. Thanks again
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Advance paint has been reformulated and now has a taupe colored label. Painting cabinets in Satin sheen for husband’s workshop and the first quart was awful. It had a different label gray with rainbow. Didn’t
flow, dried too fast. Went
to a different store and bought the reformulated paint. What a difference!! Unsure of what happened the first time but cabinets look beautiful..Agean Teal
Thanks for sharing
I'm sure you've used one before, but I'm gonna suggest using a Purdy Synth-Ox (synthetic ox hair) because they are the finest grade of synthetic bristle I've ever seen and they really do you lay down a super smooth finish. I started helping my grandfather painting at age 9 in 1972 and I've been doing it full-time since 1980. It's not just a job for me it is me, it's what defines me, it is a way of life. A Worcester yachtsman marine varnish brush might work well also, but it probably won't be any good for anything other than a duster after one shot because anytime I've ever used an oil brush in anything that has water in it the brush swells up like a dead possum and is no longer good for anything but a duster, but while it's working it works great, especially for not leaving brush marks, but it's never the same again. It's the same as when you use a varnish brush in an oil stain they swell up and there never any more good for anything other than stain and varnish. They actually make the varnish go on smoother after they've been used in stain, but the brush is so swollen you can't cut in a good straight line with it. It makes the bristles softer and makes the varnish lay down better after it's been used in oil stain. I always kept my stain and varnish brushes separate specifically for that purpose because when you use them in paint I don't care how good you wash them in mineral spirits you get a little bit of white flecks from paint in your varnish which shows up in your stain work. It's too late after you put a coat of varnish over your stain and you see little white paint specks in the Finish which looks like crap. I'm sure you already know all this as long as you've been painting and as much experience as you have. I was just throwing this out there for the novice who might read it. I'll have to try this new Benjamin Moore paint and see what I think of it. God bless you your crew and all of your families!! Give me an NC....
Do you suggest laying off with the brush after rolling? Or just brushing and skipping the roller?
Been using Advance for years. Awesome product. When spraying with it I’ve found a .308 fflp tip is a good size to help prevent runs. Also when I’m done spraying I use fans to help with the set up time to prevent runs.
Have you ever had trouble with the white colors yellowing over time? Some claim yes some claim no or very minimal over many years. Thanks
With Advance being a hybrid paint it won’t yellow like a traditional oil based paint will. Say like Impervo. Regardless. Neither of those products will yellow as fast as people might be telling you.
I've used the Advance on my trim and doors and my kitchen cabinets and I'm obsessed with it!! I love that it has a leveling agent especially with brushing. It's also super durable.
@@mattkasicki301 what do you mean?
Thank you so much for this review! Painting my builder basic oak kitchen cabinets soon and will be going with this paint after all the positive reviews!
Just started using BM Advanced for hallway doors and wall base. This video was just what I needed ! Moving forward with more confidence now …… thanks :)
Thanks for sharing👍
This is my favorite paint of all time, 45 years that is.
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Same here so easy to work with and great finish.
If you haven't used soany other paints or had the opertunitty to try new 2023 paints then your statement and experience makes sense
@@TheRealE805 2023? Please expound if you can, I would appreciate it.
@@omargarcia517 who do you know? Are your bussines relationships built up with company's ECT ECT?
We have always used Sherwin Williams pro classic for cabinets. And super paint for trim. I have never used BM paint because they don’t have paint stores and are mostly sold my 3rd party companies so that makes it really hard for us to work with them
Advance is great 👍I came up doing really nice work with Satin Impervo oil which is unavailable in Delaware and Advance is the best modified I've come across in all these years that behaves and looks like an oil
I've used this product for about 7 years. Im pleased with it. One trick I do when I roll the cabinets to get a smooth finish is to sand after first coat (which it sands very well) and then add a little water to thin it on final coat. It will have little to no stipple after it dries. I've done many cabinets for customers with this method and all have been happy. I can't always spray especially if they are living there so I usually brush and roll the cabinets.
Which grit of sandpaper do you use? Thanks!
@@Avital4414 180-220 sanding sponge. Very light
@@jerd1163 thanks!!!
What kind of rollers did you use
@@aleksandarmaksimovic4265 fine finish mini rollers. The brand "Whiz" makes good brushes and roller covers. I get it at Spectrum Paint. (My favorite paint store)
I really like it. Learning curve. But it’s quality stuff especially if you have to brush it. I’ll be spraying out my new house first time home buyer recently. Will be nice to actually paint my own house for once ! Rock on painters 🤙🏻
I use this product to spray my kitchen jobs and every customer says they look brand new like factory. I love this product. I use a graco 395 ultra with the contractor gun and a 312 fine finish tip. Awesome video🤙
Do you prime first?
@xxsedyannxx you cannot skip proper prep and priming or you will be in cabinet hell
This is my favorite trim paint. It's all I use, if left up to me. I spray, brush, and roll it. Most trim jobs I do I only have time for one coat per day anyway. It's great for hand railings and shelves. It doesn't block, (stick to things sitting on the shelf) and no dirty hand railings like latex paint.
It is by far the best non-oil-based brush trim paint on the market in my experience and if you work quickly and don't overwork, it will level better. If you wait more than a few seconds, the brush marks will tend to show up more--not nearly as much as any other paint, but its leveling properties taper very quickly to the point where you have to be careful not to double back on something you just touched seconds before. You'll know when your brush drags too much that you've waited to long. It should be a very smooth feel. Cover the entire piece to get it saturated, then get a nice a full final stroke where you feel the smooth pull on the brush (no sticking or skipping) and go end to end and don't go back. Always use long, smooth, and straight strokes. The slower you have to go to avoid that sticking or skipping feeling on the brush, the more it's a sign you're not working fast enough. Best brush for this by far are the Zebra brushes. Tried them all. Nothing beats them for trim work.
Na…to thin for brushing.
I tried to paint 8 ft baseboards with Advance. I was afraid to use too much paint because I read that a thin coat is required to prevent runs. I began with a sponge roller. It left orange peel that looked like 80 grit sandpaper. Within seconds, I went back to lightly brush out the finish. The brush dragged. The finish looks horrible and the sides still have sagging. No impressed with this paint at all.
I love these paint reviews. I'd love to see Durapoxy HP in one of these tests. We found that Durapoxy HP is very similar to Advance in performance, with faster dry time, and cures a little harder with higher scuff resistance.
Just a quick reply without any research on my end... where do you buy the product and is it waterborne? Ia always looking for new products to add to the arsenal. My feeling on Advance is that it is a very good product. I do feel like I'm leaving something on the table without using a lacquer or similar product, so I'm also interested in learning about other finishes.
I use Benjamin Moore advance a lot.. cabinets I like vinyl sealer. Graco 695. 412 tip green fine finish at about 1300-1600 psi. Brushing and rolling you want to put it on as fast as possible and leave it alone. Microfiber roller cover FTP China-x a little bit of floetrol. Also a ox hair brush works really well.
I used insl-X and Stix primer. Sprayed out beautifully and very smooth without sanding.
This is the best paint for doing cabinets and trim & doors out right now next to using lacquers. This product covers amazing and it will relieve a lot of this brush marks. It has excellent block resistance as well so no sticky doors when opening or setting things on top like with shelves. If you can’t spray this is the best product on the market, period!
I have used this product a TON over the last few years. I have used it for cabinets, trim, etc. There are a few keys to this. I have tried a 4-stage Fuji HVLP. No good. It wouldn't atomize the paint unless you thin it a lot. With an airless and FFLP tips it produces amazing results. It is super durable, and levels very well. It brushes and rolls well. I like mohair rollers for any rolled cabinet face frames, etc. The only issue- you MUST use a good primer, and do at least 2 coats. Sand between coats for sure. I use 320 between coats. I also like BIN primer. I have tried STIX, but have been less than impressed. I am super happy to see this review! We have done lots of kitchen cabinet projects with this material, and have never had callbacks!
I’ve used this product extensively over the last 3 years, and I agree with everything you said.
@@LUckybones25 have either of you gents ever used it to interior paint walls? I got it on clearance for basically nothing so figured it was worth a shot to paint the inside of a garage.
@@emsmkivgolf it would be a really durable finish, that's for sure! I have used Scuff-X on some things in the recent past, and have had good luck with that too. It is marketed as their most durable paint, and I can see that being possible. Either way- you shouldn't be disappointed!
@@joshuareed3999 thanks for the reply. I ended up using it a couple weeks ago. Primed with 123 and rolled two coats. I didn’t think the smell was all that bad, certainly not as bad as 123. I did get some orange peel in spots that was probably user error. Besides it’s just in my garage so I didn’t need it perfect. So far very happy with the results for a paint I basically got at 70% off.
@@emsmkivgolf that's awesome. My local Ben Moore will give me any of their oops cans, but they do sell most for $5-$10. Much better than seeing it go in the landfill! I'm glad it worked out!
Advance is an Amazing trim paint. I have been brushing trim with it for years now. Looks sprayed even when brushed on crown and base. It's even caused arguments between trades on big jobs about whether it was sprayed or brushed. The issue is not really dry time, it's cure time. It's about a 21 day cure. When doing cabinets, advance may be better but Cabinet Coat dries faster and cures faster, just not as strong IMO. If it's cool in a home watch out for sagging or runs. Other than some small things, this is my go to for all crown and base.
Do you need to add Flowtrol to this to get it to look sprayed or is it good out of the box/can?
I tried to paint baseboards with Advance laid flat on sawhorses. The paint dragged and left horrible brush marks. the edges ran too, even though I tried to paint only a very thin coat. I will never use it again. I'm debating whether to buy another product for the second coat:(
You are now my go to for anything paint
Thanks
This paint does NOT have a 4 hour “open” time. Also, it can be fussy to work with. If you overwork it, it starts getting fuzzy. Put it on quick, and leave it alone. Check for sags a about five minutes after applying it.
That is my experience too... I've found it dries to the touch REALLY fast.
Agreed! I have learned to leave it alone almost immediately after applying. I don't see the promise of being able to mess with it for long. Every time I've gone back to "fix" something (within minutes) I've regretted it.
Also I'm fairly new to spraying and am having a hell of a time spraying the inside of a small box. Either it ends up with runs or I get stippling because don't apply enough paint in an attempt to avoid runs. (And yes, I know not to start or stop above the surface.) I'd love a video on how to paint on 3-D surfaces or on the inside of things without them turning out like crap! Lol! Anyone with suggestion, please, please help!!!
I’ve heard this stuff drys to the touch in 30 min.
Miss the old advance label. Use this a lot with my dad.
I think you mentioned the dry time 5 or 6 times but did not address whether or thinning is necessary and what to sand with between coats. Primer underneath and what brand? How would this work with a HVLP sprayer? Would this paint be good in bathroom c idling and walls? What sheen were you using?
I used this paint on a 2 sets of kitchen cabinets and the results were excellent. I am not a professional painter but not have a lot of experience painting. I sprayed the work with a portable Graco hand sprayer with excellent results. Here is what I found:
1 - Don't spray heavy - I sprayed all doors in the vertical hanging position and if you are too heavy on the thickness you will get sags at the rail and stile intersections if not careful.
2 - Temperature is extremely important. I found that the closer to 70F or less, the better the leveling. On the first set of doors i sprayed at 80+F and found that a significant amount of stippling was evident. While the paint says it takes 4-6 hours to dry, I don't think so at all. Note there is a big difference between drying and curing. The hotter day made the paint stipple because the water in the paint evaporated too quickly and did not allow the paint to level at all. I applied the second coat at 70F after sanding and got perfect results.
3 - Sanding the first coat - I waited 24 hours to sand the first coat. I found that the cure was not hard enough in just 16 hours to do a good sanding job. The paint clogged the paper too easily until a 24 hours cure time elapsed.
4 - The finish actually needs a lot of time to fully harden so you have to be gentle with the surfaces after painting. After a month of babying the doors this paint finish is really tough and hard as you would expect from a alkyd enamel.
I will use this again. BTW - In some cases I needed to do some hand brushing and I really would caution against working the paint too much. remember it does not take much longer than a regular latex to skin and of course the temp governs the amount of time here. I also contacted BM for an extender recommendation and the could not provide one because they have not tested any yet with this product. But as you say, this paint right out of the can is thin enough and further thinning with water or glycol would just compound the sagging issue on vertical surfaces.
Great tips! i’m looking to do two coats to my cabinets primed everything with sticky primer from BM question do you have to sand your final coat?
@@inkman411 Final coat - no sanding.
I've used that and Insl-X cabinet coat as well!
Love products from BMoore!
Yes, time to cure before sanding and next coat!
Great stuff
What a great teacher you are!!
thanks Chris, i needed this viseo today! DIY, here, first time sprayer. Using a Wagner Flexio 5000. Spray my primer at 45s (kilsz2, ford #4, 25% diluted with water) but after two doors, some chunks of paint appear on the surface (air gets pretty hot by then). I've was timid to dilute the BM advance as much as the primer and didnt get much flow, or a smooth finish. i git enough down to leave some top coat after sanding the rough surface off.. Like Chris says, it's a buttery soft finish, albiet after sanding. if I had to do it over, I'd spring for a higher end HVLP sprayer, I've put a lot of time in trying to figure out the interplay of all the variables. With more power, the learning curve wouldnt have been so painful Today, I will dilute to 45s and try again..I hope the paint holds up and goes down smoother. Update later. Peace to all😊
One of the nicest looking hybrid paints but the long dry time effects the profit margins when doing cabinet doors ( front and back sides)
Wonderful review. Was wondering if you've ever reviewed our might consider reviewing Dutch Boy Platinum Plus Cabinet, Door, and Trim paint. I'm advised by the sales person that it will cover over the grain of my golden oak cabinets without using any grain filler before painting. I have doubts about this.
Good review, we have tried it but found it a nightmare on flush doors, we was not spraying, it would have been good if sprayed but edges dried so fast, we mainly use a water based by Caparol, we find it covers well and goes on nice.
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I just used this paint for my kitchen, I was very excited for the extended open time... Apparently that doesn't apply to Idaho in the winter, because mine dried to the touch in about 45 minutes. Drove me nuts. Looks great still though, even though I did get slight texture due to rolling. I rolled the cabinet faces due to not wanting to mask the kitchen with a wife and three kids, but I sprayed the door and drawers and they look great :) BUT the open time is for sure dependent on where you're from and what time of year it is.
Turn the forced air heat down.
I've always had trouble with Advance running and sagging a lot. I've had some good turnouts on it as well. I'm on the fence about the product but after seeing this I'm thinking I will give it another shot and use some of the knowledge you dropped in this video to see if I have a better outcome. Thanks Chris you always do a wonderful job with these paint reviews.
Same here. I had sooooo many runs and sags with this product when I built and installed cabs for a home office. I swore it off from that point on, but this review is making me rethink it a little. I currently use Scuff-X for cabs, with Stix primer as a base, and am happy with the results, but always nice to have different products to try and recommend.
@@JohnWilliams-cu4cc if you like stix, use their cabinet coat. It's much better than advance. Faster cure, smoother finish and way better adhesion too!
I had problem with runs too but I started to run a fan ( just a normal house fan) to the freshly sprayed cabinets and that prevented my runs even with a heavier coat.
@@user-os7fe5xn9v nice I never really thought of that idea either. I will keep that in mind on my next cabinet job. I've got one coming up soon.
Great video, I’m starting a project on my own furniture tomorrow, I have a Henredon credenza which I will try with my Flexio 5500 🙏 hoping I don’t mess up … following your advice carefully. I’ve tried this paint before on doors and trim and it is the best I have ever used.
I like this paint for smaller side jobs where using conversion varnishes and urethanes aren't practical or feasible due to smell or cost.
Use BM STYX PRIMER FOLLOWED WITH BM ADVANCE SATIN. 2 coats primer, 2 coats finish. My prep was extensive and tedious. Primer is FANTASTIC . Advance coats were 20 hours apart. All this about a 6 drying time is baloney. My finish coat was dry to touch in 40 mins. Sanded between all coats, rolled with Micro fiber. Super smooth. My old plywood doors look like Vinyl wrapped now cabinets. Mind you I filled all edges and sanded
Awesome product, produces a larger like finish. I've refinished alot of cabinets with the result customers approve.
I’ve used Advance since 2012 for about 90% of my trim and mill work. A couple additional points I’ll add.
- I think it’s the best out there for large/long flat surfaces but the penchant for runs exacerbated by corners. Check and recheck for runs when brushing. Brushed crown and base looks immaculate.
- The price is a huge selling point. Before the events of the last year even DIYers could get it for $50/gal at hardware stores that sell BM (ACE, Do It Best franchises). Same as I pay at a BM store.
- You have to be insanely meticulous with dust. Even a little bit will gum up your brush and render it useless.
- I don’t like the deep base. That’s the one situation I’ll use Emerald Urethane instead. Advance deep base tends to remain somewhat sticky to the touch and even looks that way.
- I don’t know if something changed in the formulation but over the last few years I’ve had issues with air bubbles when rolling and I’ve done everything to eliminate the usual causes.
Today it's $75-85 , must be the Putin price hike our fearless leader spoke of...
Chris: please do a test of Fine Paints of Europe. Excellent video! Thanks!
Great suggestion!
Where do you get Fine Paints ? I've called everyone local and am getting nothing
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Paint stores can be a retailer of it if your area supports the need for it since it's very expensive. But all of their products are fantastic and probably the best covering power of any paint. Hollandlac brilliant is in a class of its own and the only other paint we get that kind of gloss with is actual automotive urethane
Had some old kitchen and even older cabinets in my garage that i used Stix® Waterborne Bonding Primer and then the Benjamin Moore Advance Paint. Everything was brush and roller painting. Cabinets came out great. Almost too nice to hang back in my garage, but I did. Going to use same products and techniques to redo my kitchen cabinets in my Florida home. Loved the drying racks you used. Maybe I will get some. Nice video!
Extremely thorough video much appreciated. We just bought an older home and are going to use this product to paint our oak cabinets. We have a paint sprayer though a relatively inexpensive one. I’m thinking after watching this we might spray the doors and removable parts and use a moe hair roller on the vertical hardware. Just have to decide if we need to use a primer first or just sanding and two coats of the Advance.
I've been using the advance since my guy at Ben Moore gave me 2 sample gallons as soon as it hit their store about 3 years ago. First project we sprayed a big shiplap sunroom and an open fireplace layout also shiplap, 2 coats and it all looked like white glass! Unless a customer insists on using a product of their choice, the advanced is all I use for my interior work! Also the proof is in your prep work people! We all know the better the prep job, the better the finish product!
How do you get it to look so smooth... My husband has been at it for days and can't get the texture right, he keeps getting an orange texture, any tips?
Russell Gage, what tip did you use? Thanks.
@@vitex1231 I usually use the 5/15 FFLP tip
@@lixrvs6853 hmmm strange... I've not run into that problem. Only thing I can think of it may the surface hes applying it to? You will get discoloration if the surface isn't primed and you just paint over bare wood especially like pine or knots...
@@russellgage744 Thanks for the reply. That tip would shoot a lot of paint. Chris used a 208 and 410. Do you move really fast to still get thin coats or are you just laying down 1 coat? Would you use the 515 on cabinets? I'm using Advance on cabinets for the first time and appreciate any advice.
I painting my kitchen 3 years ago and still looking good
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“It’s about 70 degrees, to be exact.”
Love It
I use this all the time. The only downside is the cost. Still worth it in my opinion
when i do cabinets i use alkyd primer that you sand then we paint two coats with a roller anc corners with brush never had marks of brush but the trick is to seal and sand so its flatter and absorb the same… when started using that over a decade ago i didnt use primer and had those different mark almost invisible but if you look you could find them
As a DIY'er used Advance to paint a kitchen with a lot of cabinets. I rolled it using a short mohair roller without overworking it, left it overnight between coats. To speed things up I used Benjamin Moore Regal in the same color/finish for cutting the cabinet interiors. Also built a simple drying rack to hold 20 or so cabinet doors at a time. Even so, it still took a long time (many days) to get everything done. The paint goes a long way, levels out beautifully, coverage is excellent with two coats (I primed). Best thing I can say is it doesn't look rolled, at all. Would use it again.
Do you recommend laying out with a brush after rolling?
@@Avital4414 I didn't lay out with a brush and it dried very nice with just a roller (like sprayed on). Also, I found the paint didn't like being messed with once it was on.
@@robertdavenport7802 thanks!!
I agree that Advance levels out really well. I'm using automotive type HVLP gun and compressor. It's really forgiving on cabinet work. Thanks for your review.
Thanks for sharing
can you comment on airless fine finish vs HVLP to spray this? I have a titan airless and wondering if I need to buy a HVLP to paint my kitchen ?
Used a rac x fflp 310 tip and sprayed over 500 lf of base and 800 lf of door and window casing - very good product and drips sand out good, no peeling!
You did an awesome job at explaining the different techniques. I was curious if you thought that I needed to use the Advance Primer on new MDF cabinet doors and drawer fronts?
I use Advance for trim work. When it comes to cabinets, I spray a flat paint and then do a satin or semi gloss clear coat. That’s the best durability in my opinion. When you need to wipe/wash the cabinets down, it won’t affect the color itself.
Interesting
I have tried everything. Seriously. Flat paint with Ben Moore "Stays Clear" over it. Regal in every sheen they make. Advance in every sheen from flat to semi-gloss. Where I landed after lots and lots of time and effort- clean and de-gloss with TSP. Sand lightly. Reclean. Prime with BIN- an absolute must after trying literally every primer out there. Paint with Advance Satin using an airless set to 1500-1600 psi with Rac X 310 FFLP tip. You do not need to thin the paint at all. Let dry for an entire day. Sand lightly with 320. Paint again. Let dry an entire day. If another coat is needed (unlikely) you can repeat the process of sanding and painting. This finish is beautiful, durable, and I have done this tons of times at this point. I tried getting into Pre-Cat Lacquer, but couldn't find anyone else to make tinted lacquers thanks to our lovely EPA. This is the best finish you can put on cabinets unless you have a special spray booth, etc. I have tried it all. Don't bother with Emerald Urethane, Pro-Classic, 2-3 step processes, etc. I hope this helps someone else. It took a ton of time over the last few years to figure all of this out!!
@@joshuareed3999 I know you commented a while back.. but thought I’d ask three questions since you’ve used other paints as well. First, have you tried it with STIX primer rather than BIN, if so, was it better with one or the other? Second, I’m considering INSL-X cabinet coat for cabinets.. have you tried that for cabinets, if so, how did it compare? Third, have you noticed Advance yellowing when using a whiteish color over time?
This video is dope thanks for sharing. I’ve been terrified to use this product bc I don’t know what I’m doing BUT it is super forgiving
I've been using Advance for years, and I love it for crownmolding, baseboards, windows and doors , but I prefer INSLYX Cabinet Coat for cabinets. It sprays out beautiful, and will also look great when brushed and rolled. The Cabinet Coat cures out faster and doesn't run as easily as the Advance. I had a couple of issues with Advance chipping next to the cabinet door handles from women's finger nails, because it does take 30 days to completely cure, while the Cabinet Coat only takes 7 days. And I haven't had any issues since I started using the CC. One other note, I also like to first do 1 coat of INSLYX STYX primer to ensure proper adhesion, but not always necessary because Cabinet Coat will adhere to many substrates on it own.
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That’s what i do but with advance (stix and advance) i have wanted to try cabinet paint because too but i have not tried it yet . Compared to advance will you definitely choose cc instead of advanced you said? I Would try it because i need to recoat it faster
I unfortunately used a RACX 515 tip and while I though it flow-coated beautifully, I walked away to clean up and came back about 15 minutes later to an absolute horror show of drips and runs. Hoping it sands out once dried.
Haha 515. I use 310 fine finish tips, in my opinion this is the hardest paint to spray.
Here in Massachusetts it's the most popular paint for trim and cabinets. If you thin it with thin x latex paint thinner you will get the best finish. There's a finesse to use the paint. No brush strokes
Brand of Brush and roller recommendations? Back brush, or leave it alone? Thanks!
@@Avital4414 Never back brush. I use Picaso brushes only. They work great on thick or thinned paint. These brushes allow you to take long strokes. Thin the paint it will make you smile at the finish results.
@@damienfz74 what did you say you use to thin it with?
@@damienfz74 I just got a couple of Staalmeester brushes to try out. Picassos are great.
Hey Chris, consider a review of Cabinet Coat. Great product as well! Thx!
I've had really good luck with PPG Breakthrough and Corotech Command. Advance works well, but those two are a different level IMO.
Great video. Thanks for all the helpful info you've been giving us.
I have 80s oak cabinets and want to paint them with a brush & roller.
After watching your videos I decided on BM Advance. The idea was, Coverstain oil bonding primer, then BM Fresh Start water based primer, then 2 coats of Advance.
Went to BM store and they said that since I'm using the coverstain primer, I won't need the water based Fresh Start on top of that.
What's your opinion on skipping Fresh Start?
I don't want unnecessary work but at the same time I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks
Tom
I've been using this product for brushed trim for several years now. It's the closest I've found to pre-VOC oil paint for a brushed finish.
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Thanks for the video. I love advance paint. I also started using its equivalent Benjamin moore Coretech "Command" which drys and cures super fast. Perhaps you can do a video on that someday.
Ive struggled to use this when brushed or rolled. I do live in the desert so maybe the low humidity is causing issues. I end up spraying it and it works well.
Interesting
Great video as always. Rock on Chris! I’m installing new doors and trim and need a good paint to match a bright white on Beyer’s Ultra White Semi gloss. Would this be good for doors? Recommendations?
Great product with beautiful finish but the dry time is too slow for me. I use Sherman Williams emerald enamel now which is almost as nice a finish but way faster dry and cure time but still levels just about as good. I do have to say the satin finish is nicer on the advanced for sure but the emerald enamel semi gloss looks just like the advanced
Aristoshield for Dunn Edwards is the best!! Bathrooms with oil finish oh doors with oil… i primer first with zinser cover stain primer and the aristoshield is the best finish dry like oil best!!!!
I've been using it for years! That stuff is the only thing I'll use. When you can't spray the body of cabs, it is super cooperative to roll, doesn't smell horrible and sprays like a dream!
As a professional painter I find that three light coats is best. If you do get a run it gives you enough time to go back and brush it out.
Yep
Thanks for sharing. Can you compare this with Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane
I will stick with Behr Dynasty. I can paint one coat and do a second coat 15 minutes later. Drys VERY fast. Great coverage and great durability.
What is a “dry Morton”?
Advance is a great product but the deal killer is the dry and recoat time. Also the longer a finish takes to dry the higher the probability of picking up air born dust. Cure time seems like weeks where the finish will stick to itself such as a cabinet door touching a face frame. I think it's best suited for the DIY'ers where time isn't money
When I first started using Advance years back I also had trouble with runs. I find using a rac-x fflp .308 tip helps and when I’m done spraying I turn on fans to help speed up the set time I don’t get that many runs anymore.
@@ericdahlberg6595 I'm not a "cabinet painter" spraying airless. but a woodworking shop using HVLP. Advance runs and sags isn't the issue, it's recoat and cure times. Time is money so in our shop we use a lot of waterborne "lacquer systems", Kema Aqua (SW) and Agualente (ML CAmpbell) where recoat time is 20 minutes not 16 hours. If I'm going to be painting finished work, I think I would choose SW Emerald where the recoat time is a few hours. Not debating just sharing experiences.
Best paying for cabinets in my opinion it is great to spray and a pain in the ass to brush but we usually water it down and brush it if you can figure it out it’s amazing
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This product works great.. i highly recommend it! 👍
Best painter in the world besides my self ! Good stuff bro I been watching you for years
Wbat paint you reccomend the best for cabinets. Brush and roll. Also what you reccomend most for walls.
Advance if you are brushing and rolling
@@Idahopainter thank you. Wbat you reccomend for walls. ?
I gave up on microfiber rollers because they shed too much. I use the Wooster lent free rollers.
My two favorites! BM Advance and Paint Life in the same place!
I know you’re normally a 310 tip guy on trim, but you used a 208 here. Any preference/concerns for this product with either size tip?
16 hours drying time is ok for a second coat but is not enough time for moving the cabinets doors to the client house. Let it more time to cure before transporting and pack them carefully . If you move the pieces next day after you have sprayed you will need an art brush for touch ups. You have to keep the pieces in you shop longer before move them. Six months after I sprayed a kitchen, the same client required me for painting some walls and I had a moment to evaluate the Advance pearl finish at a blind spot: hard coat.
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Thank you! You are doing great work!
You are welcome
16 hr dry time is a deal breaker for my cabinet jobs. I’ve had great luck with Behr cabinet and trim satin.
The thing that I’ve noticed as well is it does not remain open for a long time, I’ve only used certain now but I don’t think that would make a difference, but it starts to dry very very fast I wish it did remain open for as long as it says. But the finish is just like you say it is just like a oil paint
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Satin *
Big on biceps but the biggest forearms i ever saw were on a painter. Good review tho
Thanks