Praying I don't have to touch the rear wheels on mine. Is there a scan tool that will tell you what sensor is out or giving a bad reading? My Stabilitrak goes in and out so I'm reasonably sure a hub assy needs replacement.
I used bluedriver scan tool. You can buy on Amazon. Cheapest and easiest route is to replace the sensor. If the warning keeps coming up after that then you know it’s the hub. The bluedriver will tell you exactly what wheel is the issue. Mine had the tone ring broken off the back of the hub. Here is the link to the scan tool: BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII... www.amazon.ca/dp/B00652G4TS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Don't be so sure I've changed them all. sensors,hub assembly front/back,fuses, sp plugs, o2 sensors, new battery. Still comes on and off depending on weather.
So for example if you take the rear driver side apart and then find it’s not the one giving the code then you gotta get the brake pads, shoes, caliper and rotor back on, then you gotta dismantle the whole thing on the other side all over again🤦🏻. Better idea for you… just buy a proper scan tool. If you are fixing things like this then you should have a scan tool that will scan all modules. And it magically tells you the exact location of the fault the first time. Imagine how easy that would be. 😂😂😂. Forgive me for my rebuttal but I like to be precise when working on the car. I don’t like to guess.
You need to be more specific than that. Many things can lead to increased fuel consumption. Are you experiencing fault codes? Scan the vehicle and tell us what codes are there. Without codes to diagnose it is literally a shot in the dark. Where is your rpm sitting at idle? Should be sitting around 750. High idle could indicate a vacuum leak. Do you have rough idle or hard startup? What services have you done on the vehicle recently? When is the last time your air filter was changed or your MAF was cleaned? All these things are important info to share especially when trying to diagnose online without ever actually seeing the car in person.
Hi! I changed my sensor on GMC terrain 2014. I had checked and error with my BlueDriver. It said that I had an issue with my RF wheel sensor. So after replacment I cleared error and after short drive it returned back. I also have a shuddering brake pedal that occurs intermittently at speeds around 5 mph. To get rid of it, it is enough to either fully depress the brake pedal or increase the speed of the car. But this happens again and again. What do you think this could be? Thanks.
Hello. I actually made another video referencing the issue you explained. More than likely your wheel hub needs replacing. Here in this link I sum up why the stabilitrak warning comes back with a new sensor: th-cam.com/video/THcIrlriev0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ypSrC21uu_hu_e7H So to diagnose it, if you jack the vehicle up and look at the back of the steering knuckle where the cv axle enters the hub assembly you will see a gap between the steering knuckle and cv axle. You can stick your phone camera (or if you have a boroscope camera even better) right up to that gap and have someone spin the wheel. You should see the brown tone ring that I showed in the first link. In my experience when I stuck my iPhone camera in the gap all I could see was silver because the ring wasn’t on the hub. You should not see any gaps in the ring either. If you see anything other than brown ring Then you know you need to replace it. I also have a wheel hub replacement video in this link: th-cam.com/video/MxoHKyS28Lc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9dTidK6yLbqhePzl I may be able to make a video to better illustrate the diagnosis process at some point this week.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 I changed my wheel hub and as soon as I rode the error disapeared. The ring was broken as you said. I struggled so much to take off the old hub because it's rusty but it worth. Thank you so much, buddy.
Hi did this solve your issue? seems like most say the hub/bearing also tends to need replacement was just curious if this fixed your issue or did you have to do both? Seems like it’s common for the front to need both or at least the hub/bearing. Unfortunately mine is rear left like yours so will see.
My rear never had an issue. I just wanted to show the process because I was filming a parking brake shoe video so while I was in there I filmed this but put the old sensor back. I will say however that my front did go bad and it ended up being the wheel hub. Replaced the sensor on the front and the warning came back upon driving it. For me it was the tone ring on the back of the hub that broke off. Replaced the entire hub and all is good. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Hey man 2017 equinox 2.4L , mechanic told me have low compression on cylinders 2 and 3 and recommended an engine rebuild or engine swap. Is there something maybe he missed or easier solution ? Didn’t know how to message you so commenting on this video. Thanks
Sounds like he is jumping to the priciest solution. Did he mention replacing piston rings? These vehicles are known for piston rings getting stuck. This would cause oil consumption. Plus it could cause a compression issue. It would still be a big tear down but cheaper than an engine swap.
Praying I don't have to touch the rear wheels on mine. Is there a scan tool that will tell you what sensor is out or giving a bad reading? My Stabilitrak goes in and out so I'm reasonably sure a hub assy needs replacement.
I used bluedriver scan tool. You can buy on Amazon. Cheapest and easiest route is to replace the sensor. If the warning keeps coming up after that then you know it’s the hub. The bluedriver will tell you exactly what wheel is the issue. Mine had the tone ring broken off the back of the hub. Here is the link to the scan tool: BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII... www.amazon.ca/dp/B00652G4TS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Don't be so sure I've changed them all. sensors,hub assembly front/back,fuses, sp plugs, o2 sensors, new battery. Still comes on and off depending on weather.
unplug one wheel speed sensor at a time to determine which one may have gone defective? The auto parts store does not come up with an error code.
So for example if you take the rear driver side apart and then find it’s not the one giving the code then you gotta get the brake pads, shoes, caliper and rotor back on, then you gotta dismantle the whole thing on the other side all over again🤦🏻. Better idea for you… just buy a proper scan tool. If you are fixing things like this then you should have a scan tool that will scan all modules. And it magically tells you the exact location of the fault the first time. Imagine how easy that would be. 😂😂😂. Forgive me for my rebuttal but I like to be precise when working on the car. I don’t like to guess.
please tell me. the same engine, increased gasoline consumption in the city. what could be the reason?
You need to be more specific than that. Many things can lead to increased fuel consumption. Are you experiencing fault codes? Scan the vehicle and tell us what codes are there. Without codes to diagnose it is literally a shot in the dark. Where is your rpm sitting at idle? Should be sitting around 750. High idle could indicate a vacuum leak. Do you have rough idle or hard startup? What services have you done on the vehicle recently? When is the last time your air filter was changed or your MAF was cleaned? All these things are important info to share especially when trying to diagnose online without ever actually seeing the car in person.
Hi!
I changed my sensor on GMC terrain 2014. I had checked and error with my BlueDriver. It said that I had an issue with my RF wheel sensor. So after replacment I cleared error and after short drive it returned back.
I also have a shuddering brake pedal that occurs intermittently at speeds around 5 mph. To get rid of it, it is enough to either fully depress the brake pedal or increase the speed of the car. But this happens again and again.
What do you think this could be?
Thanks.
Hello. I actually made another video referencing the issue you explained. More than likely your wheel hub needs replacing. Here in this link I sum up why the stabilitrak warning comes back with a new sensor: th-cam.com/video/THcIrlriev0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ypSrC21uu_hu_e7H
So to diagnose it, if you jack the vehicle up and look at the back of the steering knuckle where the cv axle enters the hub assembly you will see a gap between the steering knuckle and cv axle. You can stick your phone camera (or if you have a boroscope camera even better) right up to that gap and have someone spin the wheel. You should see the brown tone ring that I showed in the first link. In my experience when I stuck my iPhone camera in the gap all I could see was silver because the ring wasn’t on the hub. You should not see any gaps in the ring either. If you see anything other than brown ring Then you know you need to replace it.
I also have a wheel hub replacement video in this link: th-cam.com/video/MxoHKyS28Lc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9dTidK6yLbqhePzl
I may be able to make a video to better illustrate the diagnosis process at some point this week.
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 Thank you so much buddy. I really appreciate this.
My pleasure. Here is the video to sum up a bit better. Just filmed it after work today.
th-cam.com/video/315V28vNE_4/w-d-xo.html
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 I changed my wheel hub and as soon as I rode the error disapeared. The ring was broken as you said. I struggled so much to take off the old hub because it's rusty but it worth. Thank you so much, buddy.
Sweet. Glad it helped. The hubs are always a pain to remove if you have a rusty vehicle.
Hi did this solve your issue? seems like most say the
hub/bearing also tends to need replacement was just curious if this fixed your issue or did you have to do both? Seems like it’s common for the front to need both or at least the hub/bearing. Unfortunately mine is rear left like yours so will see.
My rear never had an issue. I just wanted to show the process because I was filming a parking brake shoe video so while I was in there I filmed this but put the old sensor back. I will say however that my front did go bad and it ended up being the wheel hub. Replaced the sensor on the front and the warning came back upon driving it. For me it was the tone ring on the back of the hub that broke off. Replaced the entire hub and all is good. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe
Hey man 2017 equinox 2.4L , mechanic told me have low compression on cylinders 2 and 3 and recommended an engine rebuild or engine swap. Is there something maybe he missed or easier solution ? Didn’t know how to message you so commenting on this video. Thanks
Sounds like he is jumping to the priciest solution. Did he mention replacing piston rings? These vehicles are known for piston rings getting stuck. This would cause oil consumption. Plus it could cause a compression issue. It would still be a big tear down but cheaper than an engine swap.
Will this stop the vehicle from starting?
No. This is related to the traction control and antilock brakes systems
@@BillOfAllTrades2016 yes m clients stabilitrak came on and is now no crank no start. Just changed the starter and the starter relay and fuse.
Well done thank you
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe