So i fixed my problem: 1. ABS Light illuminated 2. Service Stabilitrak 3. Service Traction Control The fix: tire pressure was way to high (37 psi - correct amount is 30 psi cold tire pressure).... let some air out in all 4 tires to meet the correct psi and no more lights on dash. Just got the vehicle from 93 yr old grandfather who can't drive anymore. 2007 equinox LS 3.4 V6 with only 132,000 miles on it. Fixed for free!
@DCAutoEnhancement And I had someone close to me, freaking out thinking there was a major problem and wanting to call repair shop to make appt to diagnose and fix it.... I refused to do that (which could have cost hundreds in diagnosis, if the mechanic started testing speed sensors, abs pump, etc....) Sometimes the most basic, common sense checks can find the issue and save a ton of $$
I got took it in and got 1 tire replaced. Immediately had this issue and none of us could really say what caused it. But I thought I’d check my pressure and it said 37 and my other ones were 32 so leaked air till 32 but no fix yet…
@dragondudenv so by now, you probably already know or have it fixed. If the tire pressure varies and I can't seem to remember +/- how much it will usually set off your tmps lamp... so I'm trying to figure out why the stillibi-trac pops up? 🤔 Anyway, again, good luck with your equsnox they are high maintenance.
Hopefully, you don't just throw parts at it. It will eat you alive since some things are not what they seem. Replaces a locked up caliper on passenger front and rotor because before I was getting a lot of vibration in the steering wheel as well while under there I decided to just replace the outer tie rod...I think I set it in to far because it was pulling hard to the left.when I needed to go to the hardware store and next thing I know up pops that stillibi-trac lamp the car with swigglely lines and the first part was the speed sensor was shot too and I was hoping it wasn't the exciter ring on the back of the bearing however, I did go buy the sensor and now in hind sight I think it was still good. I had an alignment set up and got it aligned but the tech said that the rear couldn't be set due to parts. Mine is known for rust deterioration as I'm sure many are the metal is thin and not undercoated . Make a Long story shorter I was shopping and on the way home the lights disappeared 🤔🤔🤔. I.was going to go to the yard and see what a whole rear suspension would run.
Ok so there's a few of these videos and I'm probably going to comment on all trying to save people money. Change the wheel hub assembly only if it makes noise. The stabilitrak will act up because of the speed sensor. Part that costs $20 plus and can be changed in 20min. Wheel hub assembly plus labor will cost you over $300 for sure.
I agree. In this video that is where I started. Ultimately it was the magnetic ring in the wheel bearing that was damaged requiring me to change the wheel bearing. If it is the rear speed sensor, they are built into the wheel bearing.
That’s not always true. My hub assembly was not making any noise whatsoever. I changed the speed sensor and the issue persisted. Turned out that the tone ring on the back of the wheel hub broke and fell off. I replaced the hub and the issue went away. Just because a hub has no sound doesn’t mean that it doesn’t need replacing.
I'm glad the video was helpful and it helps when a video is able to point to the exact problem. I know those lights can be brought on by a few different issues. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for your video. My daughters 2015 AWD Equinox (98,000mi) has the same dashboard annunciations. Will be getting my scan tool on it tomorrow, will follow your lead.
I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for watching. Let me know what you find out if you don't mind, the comment section can be a helpful place for people struggling with the same issues.
Very helpful. I'ma single mom.and didn't want to misused out here plus limited resources to fix it. This let me know exactly why that light came on. Thanks so much
THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS I HAVE SEEN ON TH-cam ABOUT DIAGNOSTICS AND REPAIR OF GMC TERRAIN ISSUES WE REPLACED THE WHEEL SENSOR AND HAD THE SAME RESULT AS YOU DID. SO, NEXT STEP, CHECK THE MAGNETIC RING. GOOD VIDEO LIGHTING. VERY HELPFUL MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE. 👍
Thank you for watching and commenting. I really should have done a thorough visual inspection for this issue but I was kinda lazy and just hoped it was the sensor since it was so easy to replace. I didn't realize how many different problems can cause this on GM cars. I hope this or these videos are helpful getting your vehicle repaired.
I’m grateful to know what the problem is. I spent years as my husband’s mechanic assistant aka gofer. We would both be too old to fix now but I did suspect wheel bearing. You did a great job with the video!
Thank you! I have found that many things can cause this light but with the symptoms I had, I'm pretty sure the sensor or magnet on the wheel bearing would be the problem. Thank you for watching!
You're never too old if you plan to work slowly and efficiently! That can save you serious money. Little things like using a lightweight air bag jack instead of heavy floor jacks and using modern cordless impact wrenches (see Torque Test Channel for what is good) make a major difference. I've all sorts of back and shoulder damage none of which I aggravate because thinking is free.
EXPAT IN BRAZIL is here , and .....awesome video my friend. Very professional and nice tools . The p/n for ABS sensor is like a Perkins p/n .....😅. Subscribed !
I was briefly getting a similar reading for my 2012 Chevy Cruze. I believe it was linked to me frequently using the e-brake. I stopped using the e-brake as often and it hasn't happened again.
I was fortunate enough to have a scan tool that I could watch live data on. Understand that there are a multitude of things that can cause this message. But if it is acting the way mine was, it may be a similar issue.
@@naominaomi1577 each wheel has a tire pressure sensor and then each wheel has a speed sensor. I think you may be asking about he speed sensor. The sensor is not actually in the wheel, they are in he wheel bearing essentially.
I got an 08 Chevy Equinox and currently stranded in the desert with a dead battery and a Service Stabilitrak light. Pretty screwed situation however before leaving town I fortunately bought a bike rack to go mountain biking and have it attached to my tailgate. I'll go cycling to the nearest AutoZone or something.
Hello., I recently bought a Copart special (by accident) 2012 Terrain. Got it fixed almost looking OEM but i have these same lights but no check engine light. I'm going to try the speed sensor replacement and then maybe the wheel bearing if it isn't fixed by changing the sensors.
Don't change the sensors just yet. I have a video showing how to change the wheel bearing, in that video I show what caused the issue with mine. I may have even showed it at the end of this video. If you want the link to that video, let me know
Hopefully it helps, I know that there are multiple things that can cause this error message, this is just what ended up being the root cause of my issue. Thank you for watching and commenting!
@@DavidRodriguez-gf5xy no, I started having issues and then once I got into it I found the broken magnet on the wheel hub and the broken boots on the axle while I was in the middle of trying to find the problem.
I’m having this issue on 11 gmc terrain. Was able to retrieve DTC related to RF wheel speed sensor. Inspected wiring and connections for RF wheel speed sensor, all okay. Removed sensor and inspected sensor and magnetic encoder ring on wheel hub, all okay. Cleaned sensor and encoder ring, reinstalled then cleaned out DTC’s. Took vehicle for a test drive. Message did not come back but when applying the brake pedal at parking lot speed pulsation was felt along with noise being emitted from under hood. No DTC’s triggered by the event. Was able to read live data from the electronic brake control module. Found on line graph that LR speed sensor signal was erratic. Inspected LR wheel speed sensor wiring and connections, all okay. Removed sensor and inspected reluctor ring, all okay. Went ahead and replaced LR wheel speed sensor due to erratic readings. Cleared DTC’s then took vehicle for another test drive. Service stabilitrack and ABS light did not return and when applying the brake pedal the pulsation was gone along with the under hood noise. I was delighted to the success and returned the car to the customer only to get a call shortly after that the lights have returned. 🤦🏽♂️
Live data was how I located this issue to the front right. The rear speed sensor is enclosed in the hub, is that correct? Keep me posted on what you find.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Was able to correct the issue. Was able to retrieve DTC related to RF wheel speed sensor once again. Inspected RF wheel speed sensor again but this time was able to find a tiny piece of fractured cotter pin from what it looked like on the magnetic encoder ring. Since the cotter pin is steel the encoder ring did not release object. Also the tiny piece of cotter pin affected the clearance between the RF sensor and encoder ring causing a slight rub on the sensor. Was able to remove small piece of cotter pin from encoder ring and replaced sensor due to signs of rubbing. Cleared out DTC’s then took vehicle on a test drive, this time at highways speeds. The vehicle operated as should with no DTC’s triggered, mission success! Returned vehicle to customer and haven’t received a call, thank god.
@@DCAutoEnhancement No problem. I’m assuming the tiny piece of cotter pin was introduced to encoder ring during removal of lower control arm. The original cotter pin was pretty rusty and prone to breaking. It was one big learning experience for me and I’m grateful that the issue was fixed.
@bfula9900 you can tell what side is bad by turning at speed. The wieght of the vehicle will lose pressure on the bad bearing. Causing it to be less loud. Example if you have a bad right side wheel bearing and you turn to right the weight of the car transitions to the left. The noise of the right side wheel bearing should be less noisy due to less weight being on it.
You can remove the hub bearing without tearing out the knuckle. Very few cars are that difficult. 3 bolts, sometimes 4. The axle nut, remove the sensor (if it's not integrated), then you're good to go
@@DCAutoEnhancement Doesn't the axel still need to be taken out of the bearing. I've only found a couple of vehicles that allow axel or bearing removal without disconnecting with upper or lower ball joint. There isn't enough room to back the axel all the way free of the hub and the bearing will not come out with the axel installed.
@@eshootziscrs2868 I did just change a wheel bearing on a Honda Pilot and all I had to do was remove the 4 bolts holding it to the knuckle and remove the axle nut and then I was able to pull the bearing off without removing the axle.
Hello greetings I was watching your video i have the same problem on my equinox 2011 awd LTZ I get the stabilitrak service i struggle a lot with the steering wheel as it gets hard when turning, it gets soft when I accelerated
You may have an issue with power steering pump. I don't know if these newer vehicles have electronic steering assist or if it's traditional pump style. You may just need to add power steering fluid. I hope this helps
I have 2016 terrain that only make a noise in the rear end when I turn and back up like the ads are grabbing but it drives great down the road. I changed the rear wheel abs sensor. You have any ideas what else to do
@@DCAutoEnhancement No and it only does it if you turn the wheel all the way one side or the other and take off. Like the tire is dragging but it's not and it only does it when you are turning around but you straight out and the thing drive great down the road. I've had it all apart and everything looks good as far as I can tell
There are so many different things that cause this combination of lights. I hope this helps find the cause of yours. The way I was able to really narrow it down was with the use of a pretty decent scan tool that was able to let me know I had an issue with my front right speed sensor.
I currently drive a 2012 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ AWD and I've been dealing with this issue for months, it's annoying but I don't have time to get it in cause of school and stuff. So, when I drive, the lights would turn off then when you brake it sounds bad, hard to explain the noise but after you go about 16-20mph, the lights would turn back on and ding at me. So, I ignore it and when I brake, it brakes just fine. However, I do have to push the brake pedal a little harder in order to brake faster.
So I’ve replaced the sensor but my lights still come on and it’s like I do not have a b s when I start my car but fixes itself,,,, what could cause that
@@JeraPrusi there are many things that can cause this series of lights. I tracked mine down to the wheel bearing. I am pretty sure I showed the issue I had by the end of the video.
God sends you a angel when you need one. I suffer from a chiari and funds are extremely limited.. Are there ever people who like to do car repairs for fun or.a hobby.
Thanks for the info pal. I'll be checking the wheel bearing removal and new install first because a 90k I know my 2010 GMC terrain definitely needs front wheel bearing replacement on frt left and right sides and I'll change the wheel sensor electrical connector if it's still showing the light is ON, on the dashboard board. 👍👍🇮🇪🇺🇸
A very very good video. Good explication and you give us even parts name and price .. hope to see more videos specially for equinox chervrolet ( my car 😂)
Did yours stutter and shake at all? I'm having plugs and coil pack changed tomo cause i am misfiring. But i get the Service Stabilitrak when my car starts stuttering. It got bad enough tonight driving that the engine light started blinking. When i start the car and put it in reverse theres strong stutter/shaking. When i put it in drive it stops but today it started doing it when driving and of course the warning comes on. When i stopped at the shop today it did nothing. lol It did misfire but none of the shaking and service warning. Any ideas?
Idk, my issues seemed to be speed related. I would take off and have some shaking or pulsing until I got to about 20mph then I would get warning lights but it would smooth out.
There are cables on all of the wheel bearing but, the front can be unbolted and separated whereas the rear, the sensor is built into the wheel bearing.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Thanks for the help. The stabilitrak warning and the engine light all went off yesterday but after driving approximately an hour today they came back on with the reduced engine power warning also. I ordered the sensor cables but with my luck it will be the hub.
@@AngryUnionMan67 you may want to visually inspect the hubs from the back side. If you can see the magnetic ring on both hubs and they are in tact, it could be one of the sensors. There is also the possibility that the wire is bad on the vehicle side meaning that the wire from where the sensor plugs in to the bcm could be damaged. I have read that as a potential issue.
I personally don't trust aftermarket sensors. I've had way too many runs of bad luck with them. I've found a discarded service bulletin about the issue. Nevertheless, I've checked the wiring at the pigtail (not at the sensor). I've replaced the sensor itself. Next, I'm pulling the hub to inspect the tone ring since I've found out it's somewhat common for the tone ring to break. I'll be seeing my customer next weekend and I'm sure it'll be this
Would this cause a grinding sound when applying brakes while driving under 10 miles? I have the same message on the dashboard and already changed the Speed sensor, replaced the brakes plus resurface the rotors.
is it a good idea to replace both or just the one causing the issue? I wouldn't mind doing both but if I can get away with one that would be enough for me. Great video Thanks!
In most cases it's best to replace items in pairs or sets but that doesn't mean you can't just replace the one item that you find to be the cause of the problem.
i changed a front strut on my 2016 chevy traverse lt AWD now I have service traction control and stability and runs like crap any help would be appreciated ty
@@DCAutoEnhancement hello I just replaced both front wheel speed sensors on my front end of my 2016 Chevy Traverse Lt AWD ABS light on now and traction control and stability lights are still on
@@dancurrier6421 a scanner capable of reading live data may be able to help you pinpoint your issue. Mine ended up being a broken magnetic ring on the wheel bearing.
Noises can come from just about anywhere. Can you tell if the nose starts out does when you do something in particular like hitting a bump, turning, etc?
Check this link. It might get you in the right direction. I would double check the plugs to make sure they are seated all the way and its possible that one of them is bad even though it is new. A good scan tool can read live data and tell you which one is bad. www.chevyequinoxforum.com/threads/wheel-bearings.3258/
I just replaced my front crank shaft seal. It was leaking bad and oil got onto the sensor. Now I have to replace my sensor. This seal caused so many problems.
@@DCAutoEnhancement i did not. The timing chains are inside the engine. I did fix the oil leak!🌞 Now I have to fix the shaking. Today I'm going to pull the plugs and wires. Im going to clean out my cylinders with seafoam. Tomorrow I will put it all back together! The job was cake honestly. I jacked it up. Placed my jack stands then removed the plastic so I could get to the harmonic wheel/timing wheel. You will DEFINITELY need a impact drill to remove the bolt. Leave everything hooked up so you can remove the bolt easily. Losing the bolt a little bit then remove the bekt. If you look under the car, on the side of the engine is a square socket input for a ratchet. Its a 3/8 square ratchet is what you will need. Place the square ratchet into the tensioner then pull towards the front of the car. The belt will come off easily! Its a very easy repair! It just sounds difficult. I had a harder time changing the oil.
@@DCAutoEnhancement i have the 4. I thought it was burning oil. I could never see any oil on the ground until I looked under the car and seen oil sprayed everywhere. I spent 8 hours looking for a leak until I found it leaking at the crank shaft. I removed the old seal with a flat head screw driver. I was careful not to be hard. I was very gentle as to not cause any digs in the metal. I cut a branch off a tree the was a tiny bit smaller then the seal. I put the new seal into position then used the circle stick to hit it into place! I don't think this suv has ever had a oil change which caused all the problems i have today. These cars are only as reliable as the owner. If the owner is vigilant on maintenance this car will run for over 200k.
We have a 2013 Equinox with 210K on it. My wife just sent me a pic showing the text "Service StabiliTrak" along with the same associated dash lights as in your video. I appreciate your video. It gives me an idea of the most probable causes. Only question is now, do I want to fix it myself for around $150 or have someone else do it for $550. 😄 How did you determine which wheel had the issue?
I used a scan tool that told me the speed sensor reading was abnormal and that came from the front right. It is pretty intuitive scan tool. If you are having trouble same issue as me, you may be able to visually inspect by turning the front wheels and looking. You will want to get a good look. If everything looks good, it could be the actual sensor. A stop at AutoZone, they may be able to tell you which one.
Thanks for your reply! Soon as my wife get's home, I'll head over to AutoZone. I checked out your video on replacing an Equinox front wheel bearing. Very well done. The two camera angles really help catch all the details and, for me, left nothing to guess about. Other than, of course, how well those two different metals have oxidized themselves together. 😂@@DCAutoEnhancement
@@chrismedeiros3201 depending on where you live that bearing can be easier to remove or harder. I've watched guys from Oklahoma remove them very easily and guys from New York struggle a lot. Good luck to you and if there is anything I can help you with let me know. I'm not sure if you looked but I do have a playlist for my Equinox which I still have and will be posting more videos on unfortunately 🙄.
2011 Chevy Equinox. 195000 miles. Same issue. Replaced bearing, said sensor was bad. replaced sensor, code cleared for sensor and says bearing still bad. replaced it with a second new bearing, still same issue. traction contol light and ABS light stay on, no flashing. service stabillitrak and AWD off message come on display. using a high end snap on scan tool, will not let me clear codes. disconnected battery for a bit, reconnected it, lights all still on. anything else it could be? no engine light no other codes
And the scan tool still says the sensor is bad? That's interesting. The only thing I can think of at this point is disconnecting the battery to try to reset the bcm or pcm
@@DCAutoEnhancement no it says the bearing is bad. And it’s the second brand new one out of the box I have put in it! Says the sensor is ok now. And I have disconnected the battery and left it disconnected for a while. As soon as it’s reconnected the warnings and idiot lights are back on ugh I don’t want to take it to a dealer because I don’t have money for them to diagnose it but what else could it be? Throttle body?
Throttle body, to me doesn't make sense based on what to scan tool is telling you and the symptoms you are having. I don't remember if you already mentioned it but does the tool tell you front or rear. I know the rear bearing has the speed sensor built into it where the front is two separate parts.
I had no abs or stabilitrak lights but I changed the driver side front wheel bearing hub due to noise. Got these lights afterwards. Pulled everything off and verified the tone strip is present on the hub. 2017 2wD equinox. If i turn the car off then back on, drive backwards about 100' the lightsdisappear. When i drive forward it's fine until i hit 15 mph then the lights come back on. I love troubleshooting. My scan tool doesn't see these faults, I'm trying the disconnect battery for 20 mins method. If that doesn't work I'll ohm sensors.
@@DCAutoEnhancement With the sensor installed I unplugged and ohm'd the connector, measured 17.46 M ohms. I removed the sensor to see if it would test differently in open air and away from the tone ring, it measured as an open circuit, reinstalled and measured open circuit again. Ordered a new sensor. I'll update tomorrow evening after installing it.
@@Mrctsv876 for some reason I think the wheel hub is the same part number for all four corners, you would want to verify that though. On Amazon you can do a fit check
Thank you for watching the video. I have come to realized many things can cause these lights. I would visually inspect the back side of the wheel bearings looking for that broken magnetic ring.
My car rans first, second third and the fourth will not ran or shift, the rpm will calibration at 3 to 4 and the mph calibrating between 40 to 60mph the car is not raining, please what is the problem, V6 engine Toyota Highlander 2006
Just got at 2013 yesterday and minds did this but it said motor has reduced power and when the check engine light came on it felt like i had lost all power as if i was driving it in manual 😢
I have found that these lights can be triggered by many different things. A simple code reader may point you in the right direction but an obd scan tool with live data capabilities may be able to better locate the issue. I am curious to know what you find out.
It could be many different things but a quick visual check of the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing is pretty easy to do. A scanner may be able to tell you fairly easily.
I am walking at a rate of 120. I have an anti-slip. I entered it on the device. It shows how many sensors I saw. I checked the sensors. What should I do?
@@حسنجود-ك3ع it sounds like the same issue I was having. Are you able to see the back side of the wheel bearing to see if the magnetic ring is broken or not?
Hi sir I am working kuwait🇰🇼. My vr coverlet tavers ls always coming tracksun dashboard simple but abs light simbal don't have and engine simbal have what I do please reply me so much money lass I have problem
My father had this issue and brought it to a Chevy dealer who hooked the car up to their diagnostic computer ($150!)to see what the Stabiltrak message was all about. They said there was no issue and they did something so the light and the message went away....for about 3 days! When he went back to the dealer to tell them, they wanted another $150 to check again -- saying that it might be something else. He nb told them to SHOVE IT. Another mechanic told me that it is a known defect and that it is not a problem. Sometimes the light will go off by simply hitting the "Menu" button, but otherwise, it stays on and is annoying AF!
That sucks and definitely isn't normal. I will say, I have come to realize that there are a lot of different things that can cause the light to come on
Mine says service stabilitrak and power steering, what could it be? When scanned the ABS module has 5 fault codes and the power steering module 1. However, the ABS light is not illuminated. Just the traction control icon light as well as service stabilitrak/power steering.
@@DCAutoEnhancementU0101 which stated the ABS module isn't communicating to 4 other modules. The strange thing is the electric power steering and ABS are working fine. I was getting 5 P engine codes as well. They all happened suddenly one day then next all gone. Most of the time shutting and restarting corrects the other issues im experiencing. Door locking/ unlocking on their own, gear select indicator vanishing on instrument cluster or displaying incorrect gear. If I'm in drive it will display park, limp mode, and erratic engine idle including very low then high with surging. The odd thing if say I put on high beams and roll down 2 or more windows the vehicle behaves crazy and the RPM tachometer will increase say from 2,000 to 6,000 rpm and almost blew up engine as result. Once I release high beam switch then back to the correct RPM. Bad BCM, ground or wire do you think?
@@DCAutoEnhancement well I threw a part at it and no good. I'm getting no communication codes, some low and high voltage codes and intermittent issues with it. I feel like taking it to the scrap yard.
it seems that almost anything will make this light come on unfortunately. If you have a bad spark plug you will have a cylinder misfire code and if you have a bad 02 sensor you would have a code pointing to that. My scan tool told me that there was a speed sensor error. As we saw in this video, it wasn't the sensor but the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing. This was the long way of saying there should be a code that should point you in a good direction.
@@DCAutoEnhancement I was just telling my brother that. Just changed the plugs. Tomorrow is the o2 sensor b2s1 and the engine camshaft position sensor (2). You more anything about the timing on those? Hopefully they are tuned fine still.
@@DCAutoEnhancement well the root issue was a bad camshaft sensor on the right side of the engine. Also changed the variable timing solenoids. My exhaust solenoid was all gunked up. But these Chevys need constant oil changing. So fresh oil change and camshaft sensor did the trick.
@@QueenSavage1030 are you mechanically inclined? If so, I would start with either pulling the car up on ramps or jack up each side and inspect the back side of the wheel bearings and see if the magnetic ring is good visually. If you want I can link a video where I changed the wheel bearing and it shows what the bad ring looks like.
I just got this message but mine also had engine reduced power and it cuts off while sitting at a light I had to turn around and go back home. 2014 Chevy equinox
In your case, it is probably something different. I have found out that there are several things that will cause this light. Unfortunately, the easiest way to track down this issue is to have someone with a good full features code scanner check it out. I wish I could help more. It might be worth searching this forum: terrainforum.net
@@DCAutoEnhancement Okay thank you! No worries! I’ll check the forum but I’m going to tow it to the dealer I’m way to scared to drive in limp mode far.
This was the fix for my issue. The stabilitrak light can be from a bunch of different issues unfortunately. I hope this helps you track down your issue.
So i fixed my problem:
1. ABS Light illuminated
2. Service Stabilitrak
3. Service Traction Control
The fix: tire pressure was way to high (37 psi - correct amount is 30 psi cold tire pressure).... let some air out in all 4 tires to meet the correct psi and no more lights on dash.
Just got the vehicle from 93 yr old grandfather who can't drive anymore. 2007 equinox LS 3.4 V6 with only 132,000 miles on it.
Fixed for free!
Awesome! Thank you for the information, hopefully it helps someone out!
@DCAutoEnhancement
And I had someone close to me, freaking out thinking there was a major problem and wanting to call repair shop to make appt to diagnose and fix it.... I refused to do that (which could have cost hundreds in diagnosis, if the mechanic started testing speed sensors, abs pump, etc....)
Sometimes the most basic, common sense checks can find the issue and save a ton of $$
I got took it in and got 1 tire replaced. Immediately had this issue and none of us could really say what caused it. But I thought I’d check my pressure and it said 37 and my other ones were 32 so leaked air till 32 but no fix yet…
@dragondudenv
I don't know... good luck my friend.
@dragondudenv so by now, you probably already know or have it fixed.
If the tire pressure varies and I can't seem to remember +/- how much it will usually set off your tmps lamp... so I'm trying to figure out why the stillibi-trac pops up? 🤔
Anyway, again, good luck with your equsnox they are high maintenance.
I just bought a 2011 equinox literally days ago. Now i know why they were trading it in. Thanks for the help. Now i can fix it at least.
Check out my channel, I have several videos on my Equinox. Good luck, hopefully it doesn't require too much work.
Mine sounds like it’s going to die and now I have this issue after changing a flat tire 😢
@@dragondudenv what year and engine? Have you had any codes read on it?
Hopefully, you don't just throw parts at it. It will eat you alive since some things are not what they seem.
Replaces a locked up caliper on passenger front and rotor because before I was getting a lot of vibration in the steering wheel as well while under there I decided to just replace the outer tie rod...I think I set it in to far because it was pulling hard to the left.when I needed to go to the hardware store and next thing I know up pops that stillibi-trac lamp the car with swigglely lines and the first part was the speed sensor was shot too and I was hoping it wasn't the exciter ring on the back of the bearing however, I did go buy the sensor and now in hind sight I think it was still good.
I had an alignment set up and got it aligned but the tech said that the rear couldn't be set due to parts. Mine is known for rust deterioration as I'm sure many are the metal is thin and not undercoated .
Make a Long story shorter I was shopping and on the way home the lights disappeared 🤔🤔🤔.
I.was going to go to the yard and see what a whole rear suspension would run.
@dragondudenv a locked up caliper will mimmic a bad tranny or engine failure just a heads up
Ok so there's a few of these videos and I'm probably going to comment on all trying to save people money. Change the wheel hub assembly only if it makes noise. The stabilitrak will act up because of the speed sensor. Part that costs $20 plus and can be changed in 20min. Wheel hub assembly plus labor will cost you over $300 for sure.
I agree. In this video that is where I started. Ultimately it was the magnetic ring in the wheel bearing that was damaged requiring me to change the wheel bearing. If it is the rear speed sensor, they are built into the wheel bearing.
That’s not always true. My hub assembly was not making any noise whatsoever. I changed the speed sensor and the issue persisted. Turned out that the tone ring on the back of the wheel hub broke and fell off. I replaced the hub and the issue went away. Just because a hub has no sound doesn’t mean that it doesn’t need replacing.
Thank you for adding your feedback! The comment section can be really helpful to viewers.
Just watched your video. That was the exact problem with my in-laws. A new wheel bearing later all the lights off and working great. Thanks!
I'm glad the video was helpful and it helps when a video is able to point to the exact problem. I know those lights can be brought on by a few different issues. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your abs sensor was still good it had a reading within spec, the problem was the hub assembly thanks for sharing
Yes, I approached this repair trying the easiest thing first without really getting a good look. Laziness on my part
Thanks for your video. My daughters 2015 AWD Equinox (98,000mi) has the same dashboard annunciations. Will be getting my scan tool on it tomorrow, will follow your lead.
I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for watching. Let me know what you find out if you don't mind, the comment section can be a helpful place for people struggling with the same issues.
Very helpful. I'ma single mom.and didn't want to misused out here plus limited resources to fix it. This let me know exactly why that light came on. Thanks so much
The cause of my light was a broken ring on the wheel bearing that the speed sensor reads. The wheel bearing needed to be replaced to fix it.
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you
My truck is doing all this sound like it wants to cut off
@MsFFead I would start with having your obd codes pulled
Same!!!
Bro my friend's vehicle has this same problem and her shady mechanic keeps telling her it's fine. Thank you so much you're a nickel and dime saver.
Those nickels and dimes add up. Thanks for watching. Good luck on getting her car fixed
THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS I HAVE SEEN ON TH-cam ABOUT DIAGNOSTICS AND REPAIR OF GMC TERRAIN ISSUES
WE REPLACED THE WHEEL SENSOR AND HAD THE SAME RESULT AS YOU DID.
SO, NEXT STEP, CHECK THE MAGNETIC RING.
GOOD VIDEO LIGHTING. VERY HELPFUL MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE.
👍
Thank you for watching and commenting. I really should have done a thorough visual inspection for this issue but I was kinda lazy and just hoped it was the sensor since it was so easy to replace. I didn't realize how many different problems can cause this on GM cars. I hope this or these videos are helpful getting your vehicle repaired.
Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time and explaining everything in detail. Because my car is having the same issues.
I will tackle it tomorrow.
@@BrianMurphy-i8y I recommend doing a visual check on the driver and passenger sides at the magnetic ring before taking anything apart
This is one of the best videos that I have seen for my problem and fix it to easy peace for me. Thanks and God bless. 😀
Thank you! There are many things that can cause these lights so make sure this is actually the problem your car has before getting into this repair.
I’m grateful to know what the problem is. I spent years as my husband’s mechanic assistant aka gofer. We would both be too old to fix now but I did suspect wheel bearing. You did a great job with the video!
Thank you! I have found that many things can cause this light but with the symptoms I had, I'm pretty sure the sensor or magnet on the wheel bearing would be the problem. Thank you for watching!
You're never too old if you plan to work slowly and efficiently! That can save you serious money. Little things like using a lightweight air bag jack instead of heavy floor jacks and using modern cordless impact wrenches (see Torque Test Channel for what is good) make a major difference. I've all sorts of back and shoulder damage none of which I aggravate because thinking is free.
EXPAT IN BRAZIL is here , and .....awesome video my friend. Very professional and nice tools .
The p/n for ABS sensor is like a Perkins p/n .....😅.
Subscribed !
Thank you for watching, commenting and subscribing. Hopefully you find some videos that are useful to you on my channel.
I was briefly getting a similar reading for my 2012 Chevy Cruze. I believe it was linked to me frequently using the e-brake. I stopped using the e-brake as often and it hasn't happened again.
Thanks so much, i changed abs sensors made no difference, so will open up driveshafts. What you discovered was very very interesting.
I hope you find your issue easily. Thank you for watching.
Great video, one question, how do you know what wheel to check??
I was fortunate enough to have a scan tool that I could watch live data on. Understand that there are a multitude of things that can cause this message. But if it is acting the way mine was, it may be a similar issue.
Thanks
Thanks! I def didn't know about that magnet on the back of the Hub Assembly.
Do you have to change the hub and bearing assembly on both sides.
I only changed the confirmed bad wheel bearing/hub.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Thanks
Hey man great content! I have a 2015 traverse, did you have the video made for the hub assembly installation? Thanks
@@P.M.B. sure did. th-cam.com/video/KLCeVOX6sL4/w-d-xo.html thanks for commenting.
Does each wheel have a tire sensor light?
@@naominaomi1577 each wheel has a tire pressure sensor and then each wheel has a speed sensor. I think you may be asking about he speed sensor. The sensor is not actually in the wheel, they are in he wheel bearing essentially.
I got an 08 Chevy Equinox and currently stranded in the desert with a dead battery and a Service Stabilitrak light. Pretty screwed situation however before leaving town I fortunately bought a bike rack to go mountain biking and have it attached to my tailgate. I'll go cycling to the nearest AutoZone or something.
I hate to hear that, at least you had your bike.
Hello., I recently bought a Copart special (by accident) 2012 Terrain. Got it fixed almost looking OEM but i have these same lights but no check engine light. I'm going to try the speed sensor replacement and then maybe the wheel bearing if it isn't fixed by changing the sensors.
Don't change the sensors just yet. I have a video showing how to change the wheel bearing, in that video I show what caused the issue with mine. I may have even showed it at the end of this video. If you want the link to that video, let me know
THANK YOU, I been trying to look for videos and this was very hopeful!!!
I hope this video helps. There are a lot of things that can cause that message.
Sir, how did you determine it was the speed sensor for the right front tire?
By viewing live data of the right front speed sensor on a scan tool.
Thanks for taking your time to explain things. My question is, do we replace the bearing on all wheels or just the front?
I just replaced the one that was damaged!
Thank you. This was helpful.
Thanks for all your hard work posting this this really helped. This deserves more views
Thank you! I'm glad it helped and thanks for commenting!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise on this topic!
Hopefully it helps, I know that there are multiple things that can cause this error message, this is just what ended up being the root cause of my issue. Thank you for watching and commenting!
What a nice new garage you have
🤣😂 I was about to ask if someone put you up to that. I didn't know who you were. Thank you!
You know now who I am. And thanks for the furniture dollies the other day
Not problem. I figured it out. Thanks for checking out the video.
Was this after sawpping axel ,wheel hub like me ??
@@DavidRodriguez-gf5xy no, I started having issues and then once I got into it I found the broken magnet on the wheel hub and the broken boots on the axle while I was in the middle of trying to find the problem.
I’m having this issue on 11 gmc terrain. Was able to retrieve DTC related to RF wheel speed sensor. Inspected wiring and connections for RF wheel speed sensor, all okay. Removed sensor and inspected sensor and magnetic encoder ring on wheel hub, all okay. Cleaned sensor and encoder ring, reinstalled then cleaned out DTC’s. Took vehicle for a test drive. Message did not come back but when applying the brake pedal at parking lot speed pulsation was felt along with noise being emitted from under hood. No DTC’s triggered by the event. Was able to read live data from the electronic brake control module. Found on line graph that LR speed sensor signal was erratic. Inspected LR wheel speed sensor wiring and connections, all okay. Removed sensor and inspected reluctor ring, all okay. Went ahead and replaced LR wheel speed sensor due to erratic readings. Cleared DTC’s then took vehicle for another test drive. Service stabilitrack and ABS light did not return and when applying the brake pedal the pulsation was gone along with the under hood noise. I was delighted to the success and returned the car to the customer only to get a call shortly after that the lights have returned. 🤦🏽♂️
Live data was how I located this issue to the front right. The rear speed sensor is enclosed in the hub, is that correct? Keep me posted on what you find.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Yes sir, it is. I was able to find a TSB related to the issue. I’ll be at it again tomorrow and will do.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Was able to correct the issue. Was able to retrieve DTC related to RF wheel speed sensor once again. Inspected RF wheel speed sensor again but this time was able to find a tiny piece of fractured cotter pin from what it looked like on the magnetic encoder ring. Since the cotter pin is steel the encoder ring did not release object. Also the tiny piece of cotter pin affected the clearance between the RF sensor and encoder ring causing a slight rub on the sensor. Was able to remove small piece of cotter pin from encoder ring and replaced sensor due to signs of rubbing. Cleared out DTC’s then took vehicle on a test drive, this time at highways speeds. The vehicle operated as should with no DTC’s triggered, mission success! Returned vehicle to customer and haven’t received a call, thank god.
@@ObservantHawk that's awesome! Thank you for the update.
@@DCAutoEnhancement No problem. I’m assuming the tiny piece of cotter pin was introduced to encoder ring during removal of lower control arm. The original cotter pin was pretty rusty and prone to breaking. It was one big learning experience for me and I’m grateful that the issue was fixed.
Would this work for a 2012 GMC terrain? I’m thinking yes but wanting to be sure.
@@americansantacruz6080 it should
I would think you would hear the wheel bearing going bad when rolling. And how do you diagnose which side/wheel?
The bearing itself wasn't bad, it was just the magnetic ring on the back of it that was cracked and broken
@@DCAutoEnhancement Good point. And how do you diagnose which side/wheel?
@@bfula9900 my scan tool told me which wheel, I just had to figure out which component was bad
@bfula9900 you can tell what side is bad by turning at speed. The wieght of the vehicle will lose pressure on the bad bearing. Causing it to be less loud. Example if you have a bad right side wheel bearing and you turn to right the weight of the car transitions to the left. The noise of the right side wheel bearing should be less noisy due to less weight being on it.
@@LelandsGameWorld14 But the bearing is not bad, just the magnetic ring. It's pretty easy to diagnose a bad bearing.
Would it be possible to pull the bearing assembly out by just removing the 3 bolts or do you also have to disconnect the ball joints and tie rod?
If they are accessable, yes you can just remove those three bolts and the axle nut then hammer the hub off.
You can remove the hub bearing without tearing out the knuckle. Very few cars are that difficult. 3 bolts, sometimes 4. The axle nut, remove the sensor (if it's not integrated), then you're good to go
@@DCAutoEnhancement
Doesn't the axel still need to be taken out of the bearing.
I've only found a couple of vehicles that allow axel or bearing removal without disconnecting with upper or lower ball joint.
There isn't enough room to back the axel all the way free of the hub and the bearing will not come out with the axel installed.
@@eshootziscrs2868 I did just change a wheel bearing on a Honda Pilot and all I had to do was remove the 4 bolts holding it to the knuckle and remove the axle nut and then I was able to pull the bearing off without removing the axle.
thanks for the video, but not going to address that CV Joint boot?
Here is the video for that: th-cam.com/video/96RDorR2ATE/w-d-xo.html
Hello greetings I was watching your video i have the same problem on my equinox 2011 awd LTZ I get the stabilitrak service i struggle a lot with the steering wheel as it gets hard when turning, it gets soft when I accelerated
You may have an issue with power steering pump. I don't know if these newer vehicles have electronic steering assist or if it's traditional pump style. You may just need to add power steering fluid. I hope this helps
@@DCAutoEnhancement In fact, if it's power or hydraulic steering, I've already put oil for hydraulic steering, but it only empties it leaks
I have 2016 terrain that only make a noise in the rear end when I turn and back up like the ads are grabbing but it drives great down the road. I changed the rear wheel abs sensor. You have any ideas what else to do
Is it like a chatter?
@@DCAutoEnhancement No and it only does it if you turn the wheel all the way one side or the other and take off. Like the tire is dragging but it's not and it only does it when you are turning around but you straight out and the thing drive great down the road.
I've had it all apart and everything looks good as far as I can tell
@@mattglover597 can you send me a video to info@dcautoenhancement.com
Mine is doing the same
I kept getting tighten gas cap and service parking assist , i have aftermart radio don’t know if that has something to do with service parking assist
I haven't experienced those messages before. If I find any info, I'll reply with a link for you.
I just replaced my front left wheel hub and the lights are still on I’m gonna replace the right side one too and see if the lights on the dash go away
Did you do a visual check on the back side of the wheel bearing to see if the magnetic ring was damaged.
my daughter's 2014 chevy cruze has the engine light come on and the stabilitrx message comes up. I hope thhis helps us.
There are so many different things that cause this combination of lights. I hope this helps find the cause of yours. The way I was able to really narrow it down was with the use of a pretty decent scan tool that was able to let me know I had an issue with my front right speed sensor.
I currently drive a 2012 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ AWD and I've been dealing with this issue for months, it's annoying but I don't have time to get it in cause of school and stuff. So, when I drive, the lights would turn off then when you brake it sounds bad, hard to explain the noise but after you go about 16-20mph, the lights would turn back on and ding at me. So, I ignore it and when I brake, it brakes just fine. However, I do have to push the brake pedal a little harder in order to brake faster.
@@truck_dude I would say it's important enough that you should at least get it checked out.
@@DCAutoEnhancement I plan to one of these days when I'm less busy
what is the red tc light on
Traction control, I'm pretty sure.
So I’ve replaced the sensor but my lights still come on and it’s like I do not have a b s when I start my car but fixes itself,,,, what could cause that
@@JeraPrusi changing the sensor didn't fix my problem either. My problem was the magnetic ring on the backside of the wheel bearing
@@DCAutoEnhancement so I need a barring long story short
@@JeraPrusi there are many things that can cause this series of lights. I tracked mine down to the wheel bearing. I am pretty sure I showed the issue I had by the end of the video.
God sends you a angel when you need one. I suffer from a chiari and funds are extremely limited.. Are there ever people who like to do car repairs for fun or.a hobby.
Thanks for the info pal. I'll be checking the wheel bearing removal and new install first because a 90k I know my 2010 GMC terrain definitely needs front wheel bearing replacement on frt left and right sides and I'll change the wheel sensor electrical connector if it's still showing the light is ON, on the dashboard board. 👍👍🇮🇪🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
A very very good video. Good explication and you give us even parts name and price .. hope to see more videos specially for equinox chervrolet ( my car 😂)
Enjoy Chevy Equinox: th-cam.com/play/PLe0AKNEOkemhk_NrPm57vcyBd_-tMwC0w.html
Thank you
@@DCAutoEnhancement
Thank you 🙏
Did yours stutter and shake at all? I'm having plugs and coil pack changed tomo cause i am misfiring. But i get the Service Stabilitrak when my car starts stuttering. It got bad enough tonight driving that the engine light started blinking. When i start the car and put it in reverse theres strong stutter/shaking. When i put it in drive it stops but today it started doing it when driving and of course the warning comes on. When i stopped at the shop today it did nothing. lol It did misfire but none of the shaking and service warning. Any ideas?
Idk, my issues seemed to be speed related. I would take off and have some shaking or pulsing until I got to about 20mph then I would get warning lights but it would smooth out.
Are the sensor cables only on the front tires or are they on all 4 tires?
There are cables on all of the wheel bearing but, the front can be unbolted and separated whereas the rear, the sensor is built into the wheel bearing.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Thanks for the help. The stabilitrak warning and the engine light all went off yesterday but after driving approximately an hour today they came back on with the reduced engine power warning also. I ordered the sensor cables but with my luck it will be the hub.
@@AngryUnionMan67 I didn't have the "reduced engine power" issue. Do you have a 4 cylinder or 6?
@@DCAutoEnhancement 4 cylinder
@@AngryUnionMan67 you may want to visually inspect the hubs from the back side. If you can see the magnetic ring on both hubs and they are in tact, it could be one of the sensors. There is also the possibility that the wire is bad on the vehicle side meaning that the wire from where the sensor plugs in to the bcm could be damaged. I have read that as a potential issue.
I personally don't trust aftermarket sensors. I've had way too many runs of bad luck with them. I've found a discarded service bulletin about the issue. Nevertheless, I've checked the wiring at the pigtail (not at the sensor). I've replaced the sensor itself. Next, I'm pulling the hub to inspect the tone ring since I've found out it's somewhat common for the tone ring to break. I'll be seeing my customer next weekend and I'm sure it'll be this
Good mines been doing this for a while going to check that tone ring on mine too
Would this cause a grinding sound when applying brakes while driving under 10 miles?
I have the same message on the dashboard and already changed the Speed sensor, replaced the brakes plus resurface the rotors.
If it goes away after getting over 15-20 mph, that is how this was acting.
is it a good idea to replace both or just the one causing the issue? I wouldn't mind doing both but if I can get away with one that would be enough for me.
Great video Thanks!
In most cases it's best to replace items in pairs or sets but that doesn't mean you can't just replace the one item that you find to be the cause of the problem.
@@DCAutoEnhancement
Fair enough
Thanks for the heads up!
@@juniorbjj4653 thanks for watching the video
i changed a front strut on my 2016 chevy traverse lt AWD now I have service traction control and stability and runs like crap any help would be appreciated ty
Make sure you didn't accidently unhook or break your speed sensor wire
for some reason I'm not getting any comments back
@@DCAutoEnhancement hello I just replaced both front wheel speed sensors on my front end of my 2016 Chevy Traverse Lt AWD ABS light on now and traction control and stability lights are still on
@@dancurrier6421 a scanner capable of reading live data may be able to help you pinpoint your issue. Mine ended up being a broken magnetic ring on the wheel bearing.
I have a GMC terrain 2011 and it has AWD system working all the times and it's having an abnormal noise could it be due to the AWD?
Noises can come from just about anywhere. Can you tell if the nose starts out does when you do something in particular like hitting a bump, turning, etc?
When I turned Left o right mi GMC have noise
Thank you soooo much man you really helped me out a lot with this information and it worked, thanks again
I'm glad the video helped you get your car fixed.
Thank you! I learned a lot!
Okay I have the abs light coming on...an it has the stabilizer track deal coming on an all wheel drive turn off what does that mean
It means there is a sensor in the abs system that is not providing the proper signal to the BCM causing the lights to come on
@@DCAutoEnhancement I'll check out the senser
Thank you for the video I can’t wait to trade this car I’ve had it over a year and it just to many problems for me
@@blairroberson1713 🤣 I understand
I changed the back wheel bearings and now service stabili trak on. Why?
Check this link. It might get you in the right direction. I would double check the plugs to make sure they are seated all the way and its possible that one of them is bad even though it is new. A good scan tool can read live data and tell you which one is bad. www.chevyequinoxforum.com/threads/wheel-bearings.3258/
I just replaced my front crank shaft seal. It was leaking bad and oil got onto the sensor. Now I have to replace my sensor. This seal caused so many problems.
That crank shaft seal was probably a bit of a job. Did you do the timing chain while you were there?
@@DCAutoEnhancement i did not. The timing chains are inside the engine. I did fix the oil leak!🌞 Now I have to fix the shaking.
Today I'm going to pull the plugs and wires. Im going to clean out my cylinders with seafoam. Tomorrow I will put it all back together! The job was cake honestly. I jacked it up. Placed my jack stands then removed the plastic so I could get to the harmonic wheel/timing wheel. You will DEFINITELY need a impact drill to remove the bolt.
Leave everything hooked up so you can remove the bolt easily. Losing the bolt a little bit then remove the bekt. If you look under the car, on the side of the engine is a square socket input for a ratchet. Its a 3/8 square ratchet is what you will need. Place the square ratchet into the tensioner then pull towards the front of the car. The belt will come off easily! Its a very easy repair! It just sounds difficult. I had a harder time changing the oil.
@@BullProspecting do you have the V6 or 4 cylinder
@@DCAutoEnhancement i have the 4. I thought it was burning oil. I could never see any oil on the ground until I looked under the car and seen oil sprayed everywhere. I spent 8 hours looking for a leak until I found it leaking at the crank shaft. I removed the old seal with a flat head screw driver. I was careful not to be hard. I was very gentle as to not cause any digs in the metal. I cut a branch off a tree the was a tiny bit smaller then the seal. I put the new seal into position then used the circle stick to hit it into place! I don't think this suv has ever had a oil change which caused all the problems i have today. These cars are only as reliable as the owner. If the owner is vigilant on maintenance this car will run for over 200k.
@@BullProspecting I agree. I currently have approx 205k on mine
We have a 2013 Equinox with 210K on it. My wife just sent me a pic showing the text "Service StabiliTrak" along with the same associated dash lights as in your video. I appreciate your video. It gives me an idea of the most probable causes. Only question is now, do I want to fix it myself for around $150 or have someone else do it for $550. 😄 How did you determine which wheel had the issue?
I used a scan tool that told me the speed sensor reading was abnormal and that came from the front right. It is pretty intuitive scan tool. If you are having trouble same issue as me, you may be able to visually inspect by turning the front wheels and looking. You will want to get a good look. If everything looks good, it could be the actual sensor. A stop at AutoZone, they may be able to tell you which one.
Thanks for your reply! Soon as my wife get's home, I'll head over to AutoZone. I checked out your video on replacing an Equinox front wheel bearing. Very well done. The two camera angles really help catch all the details and, for me, left nothing to guess about. Other than, of course, how well those two different metals have oxidized themselves together. 😂@@DCAutoEnhancement
@@chrismedeiros3201 depending on where you live that bearing can be easier to remove or harder. I've watched guys from Oklahoma remove them very easily and guys from New York struggle a lot. Good luck to you and if there is anything I can help you with let me know. I'm not sure if you looked but I do have a playlist for my Equinox which I still have and will be posting more videos on unfortunately 🙄.
my wife just did the same thing this morning lol
2011 Chevy Equinox. 195000 miles. Same issue. Replaced bearing, said sensor was bad. replaced sensor, code cleared for sensor and says bearing still bad. replaced it with a second new bearing, still same issue. traction contol light and ABS light stay on, no flashing. service stabillitrak and AWD off message come on display. using a high end snap on scan tool, will not let me clear codes. disconnected battery for a bit, reconnected it, lights all still on. anything else it could be? no engine light no other codes
Does the scan tool tell you which sensor? Did you also try changing the sensor or only the bearing?
@@DCAutoEnhancement drivers front. Replaced both bearing and sensor
And the scan tool still says the sensor is bad? That's interesting. The only thing I can think of at this point is disconnecting the battery to try to reset the bcm or pcm
@@DCAutoEnhancement no it says the bearing is bad. And it’s the second brand new one out of the box I have put in it! Says the sensor is ok now. And I have disconnected the battery and left it disconnected for a while. As soon as it’s reconnected the warnings and idiot lights are back on ugh I don’t want to take it to a dealer because I don’t have money for them to diagnose it but what else could it be? Throttle body?
Throttle body, to me doesn't make sense based on what to scan tool is telling you and the symptoms you are having. I don't remember if you already mentioned it but does the tool tell you front or rear. I know the rear bearing has the speed sensor built into it where the front is two separate parts.
I had no abs or stabilitrak lights but I changed the driver side front wheel bearing hub due to noise. Got these lights afterwards. Pulled everything off and verified the tone strip is present on the hub. 2017 2wD equinox. If i turn the car off then back on, drive backwards about 100' the lightsdisappear. When i drive forward it's fine until i hit 15 mph then the lights come back on. I love troubleshooting. My scan tool doesn't see these faults, I'm trying the disconnect battery for 20 mins method. If that doesn't work I'll ohm sensors.
@@brigfiche I'm curious now, let me know what you find. I am assuming you didn't unhook or remove the speed sensor from the knuckle, right?
@@DCAutoEnhancement i did remove the sensor while working and reinstalled it when I was done with the hub swap.
@brigfiche the only thought I have is double checking that the sensor isn't damaged or unplugged
@@DCAutoEnhancement With the sensor installed I unplugged and ohm'd the connector, measured 17.46 M ohms. I removed the sensor to see if it would test differently in open air and away from the tone ring, it measured as an open circuit, reinstalled and measured open circuit again. Ordered a new sensor. I'll update tomorrow evening after installing it.
@@brigfiche thank you, I'm still interested in your results.
Great video... fantastic job...thanks, i fixed my car problem.
Awesome
Thank you will check wheel bearing , next … i already check fuse and speed sensor
I hope you find the cause of your issue
yes sir you saved my arse, thanks bud i do appreciate it
Thank you for your help I have the same problem but is fix now
Awesome! 👍🏼
which side did you replace ?
The front passenger side
Is there a link for all four?
The best I could find is a pair for the front. amzn.to/3CxOODI
@@DCAutoEnhancement looking into to just change both front and rear wheel Hub.
@@Mrctsv876 for some reason I think the wheel hub is the same part number for all four corners, you would want to verify that though. On Amazon you can do a fit check
Thank you that's the exact problem I was having
There are so many different issues that can cause these lights. I hope this video helped you.
You did see that you had a torn boot on the CV shaft. Didn't you?
Yes, I made a video shortly after that one where I changed the CV axle.
Very helpful sir and thank you. Now I know what to do
Thank you for watching the video. I have come to realized many things can cause these lights. I would visually inspect the back side of the wheel bearings looking for that broken magnetic ring.
May get a price break to have front wheels, wheel bearing unit on each side replaced. If the magnet look worn out the same.
Wìll this cause you vehicle to slow down
It caused my brakes to act up until I got over 20mph
@@DCAutoEnhancement thank you
I have changed the sensor but it still shows the service stabilitrak
It was the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing
Huge help!
My car rans first, second third and the fourth will not ran or shift, the rpm will calibration at 3 to 4 and the mph calibrating between 40 to 60mph the car is not raining, please what is the problem, V6 engine Toyota Highlander 2006
Just got at 2013 yesterday and minds did this but it said motor has reduced power and when the check engine light came on it felt like i had lost all power as if i was driving it in manual 😢
I have found that these lights can be triggered by many different things. A simple code reader may point you in the right direction but an obd scan tool with live data capabilities may be able to better locate the issue. I am curious to know what you find out.
Got the "Service SrabiliTrak" squirrelly car, ABS Light and tire pressure light going on a 2012 2wd. I thought it was something different.
It could be many different things but a quick visual check of the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing is pretty easy to do. A scanner may be able to tell you fairly easily.
Loved the video
Great, hopefully it helps you with your vehicle! Thanks for watching!
I am walking at a rate of 120. I have an anti-slip. I entered it on the device. It shows how many sensors I saw. I checked the sensors. What should I do?
I'm not sure what you mean by " I am walking at a rate of 120" does your scanner show that all sensors are good?
When I turn the wheel on, there is no anti-skid, only when I walk and the rate reaches 120, I have an anti-skid
The fault detection shows the cam sensor, but the cam sensor is intact
@@حسنجود-ك3ع it sounds like the same issue I was having. Are you able to see the back side of the wheel bearing to see if the magnetic ring is broken or not?
I don't have the abs sensor, just the non-slip
Hi sir I am working kuwait🇰🇼. My vr coverlet tavers ls always coming tracksun dashboard simple but abs light simbal don't have and engine simbal have what I do please reply me so much money lass I have problem
I'm sorry I have not responded. I am having trouble understanding your question
My father had this issue and brought it to a Chevy dealer who hooked the car up to their diagnostic computer ($150!)to see what the Stabiltrak message was all about. They said there was no issue and they did something so the light and the message went away....for about 3 days! When he went back to the dealer to tell them, they wanted another $150 to check again -- saying that it might be something else. He nb told them to SHOVE IT. Another mechanic told me that it is a known defect and that it is not a problem. Sometimes the light will go off by simply hitting the "Menu" button, but otherwise, it stays on and is annoying AF!
That sucks and definitely isn't normal. I will say, I have come to realize that there are a lot of different things that can cause the light to come on
Auto zone auto parts store will use thier diagnostic machine and not charge you at all. It's a free service.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try them out!@@Lilyqueen1
The dealers can't figure this stupid lemon car out.
That sounds terrible. How many dealers have you taken it too?
Mine says service stabilitrak and power steering, what could it be? When scanned the ABS module has 5 fault codes and the power steering module 1. However, the ABS light is not illuminated. Just the traction control icon light as well as service stabilitrak/power steering.
Do you happen to have the codes? We can start there
@@DCAutoEnhancementU0101 which stated the ABS module isn't communicating to 4 other modules. The strange thing is the electric power steering and ABS are working fine. I was getting 5 P engine codes as well. They all happened suddenly one day then next all gone. Most of the time shutting and restarting corrects the other issues im experiencing. Door locking/ unlocking on their own, gear select indicator vanishing on instrument cluster or displaying incorrect gear. If I'm in drive it will display park, limp mode, and erratic engine idle including very low then high with surging. The odd thing if say I put on high beams and roll down 2 or more windows the vehicle behaves crazy and the RPM tachometer will increase say from 2,000 to 6,000 rpm and almost blew up engine as result. Once I release high beam switch then back to the correct RPM. Bad BCM, ground or wire do you think?
@@Scott-ms5bb I was thinking ground or possibly alternator with either high voltage or low voltage. Your symptoms seem pretty strange.
@@DCAutoEnhancement well I threw a part at it and no good. I'm getting no communication codes, some low and high voltage codes and intermittent issues with it. I feel like taking it to the scrap yard.
@@Scott-ms5bb I understand the feeling. What parts did you change
Anyone know if a bad o2 sensor and bad spark plugs would cause my stablitrak light to appear
it seems that almost anything will make this light come on unfortunately. If you have a bad spark plug you will have a cylinder misfire code and if you have a bad 02 sensor you would have a code pointing to that. My scan tool told me that there was a speed sensor error. As we saw in this video, it wasn't the sensor but the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing. This was the long way of saying there should be a code that should point you in a good direction.
@@DCAutoEnhancement I was just telling my brother that. Just changed the plugs. Tomorrow is the o2 sensor b2s1 and the engine camshaft position sensor (2).
You more anything about the timing on those? Hopefully they are tuned fine still.
@@vico.2514 no but I think I will be replacing the timing chains on mine soon
@@DCAutoEnhancement well the root issue was a bad camshaft sensor on the right side of the engine. Also changed the variable timing solenoids. My exhaust solenoid was all gunked up. But these Chevys need constant oil changing.
So fresh oil change and camshaft sensor did the trick.
@@vico.2514 so this is the 2.4L 4 cylinder. Good to know, thank you for letting us know. This could be very helpful to others.
My mother has all of these problems please help me!
How is the care behaving?
@@DCAutoEnhancement HORRIBLE
@@QueenSavage1030 I would need a little more detail to try to see if it is acting like mine was or maybe it's something different
@@DCAutoEnhancement i think it's doing exactly what yours is doing.
@@QueenSavage1030 are you mechanically inclined? If so, I would start with either pulling the car up on ramps or jack up each side and inspect the back side of the wheel bearings and see if the magnetic ring is good visually. If you want I can link a video where I changed the wheel bearing and it shows what the bad ring looks like.
Me gusta tu trabajo lo ases muy Rapido
Gracias, aprecio tu tiempo.
I just got this message but mine also had engine reduced power and it cuts off while sitting at a light I had to turn around and go back home. 2014 Chevy equinox
In your case, it is probably something different. I have found out that there are several things that will cause this light. Unfortunately, the easiest way to track down this issue is to have someone with a good full features code scanner check it out. I wish I could help more. It might be worth searching this forum: terrainforum.net
@@DCAutoEnhancement Okay thank you! No worries! I’ll check the forum but I’m going to tow it to the dealer I’m way to scared to drive in limp mode far.
@@Maye2k01 that's understandable
@@DCAutoEnhancement Yeah. Thank you for taking time out of your day to help. I’ll update once I figure this out.
@@Maye2k01 thank you!
Be My Mechanic ❤
Mine trows a kick then the light comes on and the rpms stops going
There are a lot of different things that cause this light, if you can get obd codes that can help figure out where to start looking.
Thank you...👍
Thanks
My daughter is a 2016 chevy equinox. Stabletrack light on .
Good video
Thank you
What a Christmas 🎄 tree
Not the kind I like.
@@DCAutoEnhancement 🤣 for sure
Our ride just started doing this, I can at least tell the shop where to start.
Yeah, they can hook up their scanner and probably just about pin point your problem. Hopefully it won't be an expensive fix.
Thank you
Thankyou.
Very helpful
This was the fix for my issue. The stabilitrak light can be from a bunch of different issues unfortunately. I hope this helps you track down your issue.
Hey what does that little white light mean like a little timer ⏱️ that’s on and stayed on
Cruise control: it's white when it is turned on but not active and it is green when it is on and being used.
Thx you it help
I'm glad the video was helpful.
Your going to need a new cv axle with that boot ripped like that
I made a video on that afternoon posted this one. Good eye. Thanks for watching!