The Single Best DRILL UPGRADE I’ve Seen
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- It's time to upgrade your drill! Find the perfect chuck for your drill at roehm.biz/chuck-up/en This video will introduce you to the ins and outs of when and how to upgrade your corded or cordless drill's chuck to make it better than new. #diy #powertools #drill
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A big thank you to Rohm for sponsoring this video. Check out their chuck finder at roehm.biz/chuck-up/en to learn more.
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00:00 Intro
00:29 Drill Upgrade: The Game Changer
01:55 Testing and Comparing Drills
05:32 Step-by-Step Chuck Replacement Guide
08:02 Performance Comparison and Insights
08:38 Wrapping Up: Key Takeaways
09:03 Outro - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I’m a design engineer for a precision air tool manufacturer for aerospace and defense applications, we ran through a gamut of chucks and transitioned to ROHM chucks several years ago. Each time I’ve tested them they’ve held .001 runout at 2" to 3" from the rear face of the chuck depending on the size of the chuck. They hold drills better than most as well. We run them over 6,000 rpm in many applications.
Surprised Rohm won out over entirely better brand like Albrecht.
@@agg42 a lot of that comes down to being able to fit our product line, cost vs performance, and availability. Albrecht primarily makes mill chucks that are larger and heavier than the chucks we were looking for.
Is there a different product line that they have that would fit a 1/2HP palm drill up to a 1.5HP air drill?
You just saved me from watching this. Appreciate that
Saying this is a paid promotion at the start of the video, instead of the end, is much more ethical, IMHO.
The disclosure should not be easily missed PER FTC guidelines. If someone doesn't watch all the way to the end of the video no one would know this is a sponsored video.
Disclosures should be hard to miss.
Per FTC 101 for Social Media Influencers.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
Didn’t finish the video entirely and I had no idea it was sponsored.
Not only that, it's an FTC violation.
That's our boy for you. Decent, patient, honest and true.
First and last time I will watch this channel
Nice infomercial on Rohm drill chucks. They should get a lot of business from it. 👍
Yeah, it would have been nice to have the sponsorship more prominently located. But, in all fairness, Rohm does make fantastic chucks, not just for handheld drills but also for all other drill applications.
Report his video. Make him stop treating you like this.
@@Boodoo4You 🤷♂️ for what ? 🤦♂️
I was sold when you pointed out how the chuck could turn my normal size drill into a compact by shortening an eight of an inch. Amazing
😂
I've actually lusted after a Sioux angle drill for several decades, but never got around to buying one.
Lol
Too funny
You have no clearly stated that this is a sponsored video. Sponsored content should not be hard to discern by the viewer. It is to be communicated to your viewer as soon as possible in a "hard to miss" manner per FTC regulations.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
It's in the description. Learn to read
I knew I had a bad chuck on one of my cordless drills, so this was a good time to check all of them. I made a simple setup on my welding table, lightly clamped the drill to the table, chucked a steel dowel pin in the drill and checked the runout. The bad one was .01, the other 2 were .005 and .004. Not too bad for a cordless drill. I ordered a new Rohm chuck and replaced the bad one. It tested at .002. The one that is at .004 is a standard Dewalt chuck replaced a year ago.
This hidden sponsorship is a bit slimy
Now I'm going through ALL of my drills and seeing what chucks are on them haha! Never thought about this type of upgrade. Thanks so much for letting us know Nils.
This was news to me not that long ago too. It’s been cool to see the difference before and after. Thanks for watching, Brent!
That's perfect for what I currently do with keyed steel chucks which is drill and tap them 1/2"-13 (using a lathe to keep things concentric) then turn my angle grinders into high speed right angle die grinders but without dragging another tool in the bucket. Thanks for the video! Many drills have inferior chucks for which these are an upgrade. Their larger cousins are popular in machine tool usage.
Good timing I've been looking for a decent chuck the last week, I just got a new Makita drill with a metal chuckk, and it made me realize how crappy the one on the subcompact drill is…
PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. BTW - these are $50-$70. NO TESTING. The testing section has no actual comparison of the advertised chuck to another brand like Jacobs (which are good chucks!). In one shot you see a hole supposedly drilled with another chuck where the bit wobbles around in the hole. FAKE!?. That DOES NOT happen. A plastic chuck would do better than that. This is why people like Project Farm so much. You can trust that channel. PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. should be at the front, not end, and at the top of the description (it's 7 lines down).
This seems like a good upgrade for a carpenter, or if the chuck is damaged and needs to be replaced. I'm a home DIY guy, and the chuck my drill came with is working well enough that I don't want to invest another 50% of the cost of my tool.
All my drills are Bosch or festool and the cheapest Bosch professional drill I have was £65 with 2 batteries and came with a rohm chuck
I guess I have just been lucky.
Whatever Chinesium chucks are on my old 18 Volt Porter Cable (Cough Black & Decker) drills haven't given me any problems, even on the hammer drill.
I change the chuck on my craftsman heavy duty drill 20 years ago. Best upgrade I ever did to that drill. The original couldn’t handle 1/2 drill bits and didn’t hold the bits after a year of use.
I've always used Jacobs in the past, and I've been very satisfied with them. I'll have to check out the roehm chucks.
My DeWalt's all have Rohm chucks, OEM, but bought upgraded Rohm chucks for the hammer function drills. Same for my drill press, only Rohm had the proper taper on a high-precision keyless chuck. Each chuck ran $100 - $150 but worth the premium.
Thanks ! Great timing,. I have several chucks that definitely need to be replaced.
Your credibility suffers when you fail to disclose this is an infomercial
I was contemplating choosing Milwaukee as my battery tool platform - when I was looking at the drill (Model # 2903-20) on the Home Depot website someone asked if it could be changed to a keyed chuck. "Milwaukee Tool" answered that it could not.
Does anyone know if that is true? Keyless chucks are great I have always kept a keyed chuck for the occasional time I need one for my other drills.
I have a Ryobi P215 cheapo not shown on their list. When i use the manual size finder seems link there are only three options for the spindle lock...am i reading that correct?
I didn't hear you mention what Rohm stated about backing up the chuck one click when changing bits. Did I miss it?
Thanks for sharing. It is certainly worth my time.
Thanks for this. I have a drill that needs a new chuck. Wasn’t sure where to get one.
Great topic. An excellent alternative if you have a cheaper drill that you don’t feel like spending a lot on is the Jacobs brand chucks. At one time, Jacob’s was the premier chuck available, but they have become Chinese since. Their chucks are not as great as they used to be but still way better what comes on 90% of the drills today. They are also very reasonable with some excellent models under $10.
Great video just 1 Question do u have the DCD800. Did those come with a Rohm chuck
Thank you!!!!! Will be fixing two drills that I was ready to toss!!!!
I own the flex turbo hammer drill FX 1271T and I noticed that you upgraded yours. Can’t seem to find this model on the Roehm website. Can you clarify which model I should buy?
2:57 I wouldn't typically think of a Jacob's chuck as lower quality. Are you asserting that Jacob's made an inferior chuck for Flex? Or was it your personal experience that led you to that conclusion?
I tested the Jacobs chuck before and after swapping it out for the Rohm and it ran straighter (the bit) and felt tighter with the Röhm. Jacobs chucks aren’t bad chucks, they’re just not manufactured with the same quality control and engineering as Röhm. Jacobs no longer makes chucks in America. Rohm’s are designed and manufactured in Germany, where a close eye is kept on QC.
Jacob’s has deteriorated in quality, their chucks are no longer viable for precision work.
Their runout and ability to hold are significantly worse than they used to be, likely before manufacturing moved. Röhm makes a solid chuck that I’ve yet to see run the same loss of quality as Jacob’s.
@@LRN2DIY Its a shame to see so many big US brands move manufacturing to China. I even noticed some Estwing hammers are now made in China.
@@SOHCHEAD
Mine are so old and last so long, I didn't even know about current quality.
@@noire1001 I hadn't heard that about Estwing. Sad.
I use the Worx drill can I upgrade the chuck? I love this little drill it's perfect for what I use it for I know it's not top of the line but I love it
Does anyone know if I can remove chuck on m12 gen 3 hammer drill by applying high torque application in reverse with screw removed? hex key and hummer doesn't help
That webpage never loads properly. Cant see what chuck works with Dewalt DCD999 & what for DCD777
Since the 999 comes with a Rohm Chuck is there a better one you can get?
Milwaukee M18 2606-20 drill driver 1/2 13mm what rohm chuck do I get the shorter the better thank you
I have a question trying to determine the spindle size on my makita. BHP 451 lost its grip need an upgrade bad .The website does not state how to get the spindle size. It says to remove it, then determine the size thats it, but dont see size on it. Can you help me, PLEASE? there's step-by-step just shows you how to remove the chack, that's it . I was ready to buy the factory chack when i just ssaw your video I didn't even know that you can upgrade it. Thank you for the good work.
Years ago my favorite battery drill was a Skil Top Gun 12V. All steel transmission gears. Kinda heavy but rock solid. NiCad batteries (sealed & unserviceable) were a low point. But putting on a new keyless chuck was a game changer upgrade. I still have the drill. Finding better components isn't easy. Better than the interrupting ads inserted by Alphabet Co.
I’ve been a 3rd generation Carpenter for 20 years among other types of work auto mechanic steel, different types of metal work I have all types of drills and Flex is an amazing powerful machine but the chucks aren’t great I tried to change the anvil on my impact to a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 hex inside the 3/8 for my own versatility options and efficiency but for love of god and can’t find an anvil to fit to replace it 😂 hoping you could help being your the drill master in my opinion hope to hear from you or someone else who’s had this issue I can’t be the only one because I want to keep my Flex impact and not have to have another impact for my uses it’s more power that I need just a an anvil will do thanks
Do they have a replacement chuck for a dcd771? I can't seem to find info regarding this (from what I've learned) crap drill.
Do Röhm make cheaper budget chucks? I have a drill by parkside that cost €70 as a kit and has a Röhm 13mm metal chuck on it so curious if it's the same as on pro tools
Edit: it looks identical to the extra50-RV but it's longer, like 70mm
The same chuck. The manufacturer of the Parkside drill/drivers use Rohm in their own brand and just pick their off the shelf chuck.
Great presentation! I have a Dewalt brushless that came with a terrible chuck. Gave me all kinds of problems right out of the box. I can't seem to find a fastener down inside the chuck and I've read you have to take the drill all apart to break it loose. Any experience with this?
They have purposely made it almost impossible to replace it without destroying the drill in the process. Its the same with my dewalt drill. They presumably want you to buy a new drill once the chuck gives up. If you search how to remove the chuck for the model number on youtube you'll probably find a video that shows how to do it, but its a PITA and a high chance of destroying the drill as you need to apply so much force and take the drill to bits.
a lot... you neet to disaasemble whole device, put axis out of gearbox and then you can make it ;) there ino screw, just torque and glue
I have a DCD800 Dewalt that had a terrible chuck out of the box. I took it back and exchanged it. Second one had wobble too. Decided to change it out with a Rohm. This is an "around the house" drill for me, so i settled on a method to remove the chuck. This may make you cringe, and i don't really recommend it. I chucked up a 3\8" hex bit with a 1\2" square drive into the stock chuck and stuck an impact on the bit. I had the drill in reverse at a slow speed and burped the impact. It broke free immediately and spun right off. I havent seen anyone else use that method, but it worked perfect for me. I may have to try it on a few other drill, for science of course.
@@Cpm0487 At this point, I'm willing to try this method. Thank you!!
Great Video. Will the Rohm Chuck in the Video Work on the New Gen 4 2904-20 Hammer Drill or does this Drill already have this chuck..
Thanks Allen D
Milwaukee drill sold in the US will usually have Jacobs Chucks on them.
How to remove a chuck in Dewalt dcd800 drill?
Three is a rounded pin to secure a spindle.
My only idea is to drill a pin to make possible to unscrew the Chuck.
Are the threads on the drill where the chuck screws on universal in size?
Makita’s metal chucks are awesome. Japanese made. I swapped the Makita plastic chucks for the metal ones on a few
Hey, as a German myself, I am kind of sad that you talk the entire video about the capital of Italy and not the German Company Röhm with an ö! To be honest, it is pronounced quite differently! But great Video by the way. :)
While you should have revealed that this was a paid promotion upfront, I none the less appreciated the video. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that I really like but the chuck has been giving me issues (very difficult to loosen after tightening). I wanted to do something about it but wasn't aware that replacement chucks were available so it looks like I'll be heading over to ROHM for a new one.
I have a Hitachi 18v hammer drill. As you know Hatachi was bought out by Matabo. The site doesn;t list Hatachi and the model number must be different than Matabo. Also there isn't any way to contact Rohm. How can I find the right chuck for my drill?
Thanks that was a great recommendation!
Thanks was impressed, how I didn’t know, excellent video thanks for you time and tip
I've got the Makita Subcompact drill, which came with a Rohm chuck. Contrary to its reputation, this particular plastic chuck has a rather annoying ratcheting issue. It has vastly better grip than my Dewalt DCB805, but my best chuck experience was with Milwaukee
Yeah, that subcompact Chuck is my nemesis, It constantly lets go for me
My worst experience has been with Milwaukee chucks and collets.
@@jimmymac601 interesting.. My Milwaukee 12v has a metal Chuck that I find far superior to 5 plastic chucks on my dewalts
@@GageDrumssame here with both my Gen 1 and now Gen 3 M12 Fuel drills. No issues with their metal chucks. My installation driver also came with a metal chuck. Haven’t used it much though.
I guess RÖHM as well as many other brands have quality tiers among their products.
The plastic housing on that chuck is a dead giveaway that corners were cut
I have a couple DeWalt drills, that have no fastener. Like the DCD706. Unchangeable? Or not worth the risk of breaking the drill?
You need special tools + torque wrench and the screw is on the inside so you´ll need tear down the entire gearbox to switch chucks. It sucks, don´t do it.
Chuck removal tip : If the left-handed chuck screw won’t loosen, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten the chuck tighter onto the spindle then remove the screw then remove the chuck. The purpose of the LH screw is to help keep the chuck from unscrewing when using the drill in reverse and if the chuck has unscrewed itself, it will be jammed against the screw making removal of the screw difficult.
My question is if the higher end models already have a rohm chuck, if you get one from the website will it be the same as the factory one or a different better/smaller one?
It depends. From what I’ve seen with all my drills, the Rohm chuck that comes in your drills will be similar to a replacement one.
Does anyone know what is chuck thread size of m12 gen 3 drill? No data in Rohm website
Hi. I've had an Hitachi drill for quite a while that has a Rohm chuck. No matter what I do the bits have always worked loose. Is there any way to stop this? I think I tighten it enough, but how do I know? Should I tighten it as hard as I can? I'm worried about breaking something.
The answer is simple. Tighten it as much as you possibly can. You won’t break it (and if you do, it was already faulty to begin with).
Chucks need to be as tight as possible to properly bite into the round shank of drill bits. It only takes a couple of slippages to damage the jaws of a chuck to the point that they will stop gripping bits properly. Don’t let them slip: tighten them properly.
Thank you so much. That's just what I needed to know.@@TheIdeasGuy
@@johnnyshinnichi1785 you’re welcome mate. Have a good day/night wherever you are in the world
Hey LRN can you help me find ROHM chucks for Milwaukee 2904-20 and 2606-20.
this is funny back in 2017 i was on the hunt on upgrading my chuck but no one talk about it , so i left the stock chuck on it but now i know what brand to get :D
Nice! I hope it helps!
@@LRN2DIY i dont see my model, i have a makita XFD10
@@CRAZCHEVBOY They have a section on their site for finding your spindle size if it's not listed: chuck-up.roehm.biz/en/instructions.html
My Milwaukee gen 4 combi drill didn’t come with a rohm chuck. Well explained presentation.
en su ficha tecnica del portabrocas Rohm dice que soporta un par maximo de 80 Nm. pero el taladro Milwaukiee 2804 tiene 135 Nm. entonces este portabrocas no aprovechara los 135 Nm que ofrece el taladro. es cierto amigo?
I just looked at my Dewalt 20 volt drill. I don’t see a name on the chuck, I opened it wide enough to look inside and it doesn’t seem to have a removable bolt. What is your opinion on that?
you need to disassemble drill to put axis with chuck from gearbox, that it is simple. Originals are metal ones are Rohm, plastics are Jacobs
Great tip--thank you. In return, I have one tip for you. At 5:39, you should flip the channel locks over to greatly reduce the amount of effort it takes to grip something with the channel locks. I know you know this because I saw the video you made on this topic. I learned how to properly use channel locks back in high school, some 45 years ago, so I immediately see when people are using them wrong. I'm guessing you're having a hard time breaking that old habit, huh? In either case, thanks again for the informative video on the chuck upgrade.
You mentioned batteries earlier and I was wondering if you've had any experience with the off brand 18v Ni-Cad replacements for Porter Cable tools. My impact driver is fairly old, obviously, and I'd rather not spend the price of a new driver on replacement batteries, especially since I only use it occasionally.
Thanks, W
I can’t say that I have any experience with that, but if they’re not too expensive, it might be worth a quick try.
If you have a few tools and batteries I would get a battery adapter for the porter cable and buy lithium batteries to use on them.
And a new charger & batteries porter cable maybe?
@@kristene2372That's a thought. I'll have to see what's available. Most of the lithium batteries I've seen when searching are 20v.
Thank you! W
what voltage is the old p/c ? 14.4v 18v?
@@kristene2372 18v Ni-Cad
Used my ryobi to try and start a stubborn chainsaw (needed reverse) something in the combination of how it acted must have been impacting pretty hard, maybe post compression or partial ignition strokes, anyway I sheared the reverse thread screw as that was all that held the chuck after it came loose, oops!
Weird, only AEG on the Rohm page. Was looking yo match my ridgid hammer drill.
I see though only 2 checks from all the brands and models, either the extra-rv50 or rv80 to choose from.
I love my battery powered Dewalt Drills but my older plug in drills while still powerful give me a lot of grief because the chucks are incredibly hard to open to their full capacity and do not lock properly.
Why didn’t we know that we could replace the chucks? I’m going to check my drill models and order the appropriate chuck.
Thank you for this video.
My 150Nm Parkside performance cordless drill came with Rohm Extra 50RV, noticible better chuck than my aku Bosch professional, but still not perfect tho. I ordered RV80 just yesterday, hoping for the best...
reminds me the chuck on my corded right angle drill annoys me every time I have to change bits, because it's sticky right at that size range.
Wow holy moly 💩 I actually saw the pass wobble on that chuck & the precision on the Röhm chuck
I've had chucks that seem to not want to give up the bit. Any chance this might help that?
It sure could. The chuck should be able to release the bit with a normal amount of backwards pressure. If it’s not doing that, it could be a chuck issue.
Anyone have a link to that chuck finder? I can't seem to find that particular page.
Same 😂
Link is in the description but here it is as well: roehm.biz/chuck-up/en
Didn’t even know such existed!!
Thanks
Bob
England
Thanks for watching, Bob! I hope you’ve been doing well, my friend.
@@LRN2DIY thanks matey
Basically a commercial for Rohm. Learning better drill control will far outweigh any advantage changing a drill chuck would give, unless the chuck is severely damaged or complete junk like on china knock off.
Informative 👍
I’ve only used my drill a handful of times since getting my impact driver years ago.
is there a masterlist of which dewalt XRs have the rohm chuck?
I’m not certain but if you look at the writing in the ring of the Rohm chuck, just about all Rohm chucks have that same writing on them and they can be easy to recognize that way.
Great video
Great tip thanks
How do you know if your drill has a Rohm chuck?
Bosch used to make the best drills and worst chucks. So they invented SDS to solve ths. Now we have 2 options.
One of my first cordless drills was a Bosch I bought in 1988. The dealer sold me a Jacobs chuck at the time I bought it, That combo was unbeatable for years until the batteries died and I couldn't get replacements.
Is it worth doing on a 30$ amazon drill i bought just because it used the same battery as my aoben 1/2 inpact wrench uses
That's up to you. The chuck will cost more than the drill in that case but if the drill is otherwise good, then it could be worth it.
Nice video!
Rohm may be the Mercedes Benz of chucks BUT
Jacob's chucks are the Rolls-RoyceAt least the one's I have from many decades ago that are still like new.
Sadly Jacobs has moved at least some production to China.
Companies like Stanley B&D know that customers associate Jacobs with quality so they use Chinese Jacobs chucks.
The customer sees the brand name they have used all their life and has no idea the product is different.
I had a cheap drill chuck broke and replaced it with a dacade old chuck from a broke DeWalt I had lying around, it't a Rohm one and indeed better than the factory one :)
I bought it for my dcd800 dewalt and I cant find a video that shows how to replace that exact drills chuck. Anyone else have luck with replacing it? Apparently it’s threaded on and I think I need to disassemble the drill to get the chuck off
A dcd796 da dewalt tem uma forma diferente ja que ela nao possue o parafuso interno de fixacao
Ive done this for years. One thing I’ve learned, if you replace a light plastic chuck with a nice metal rohm chuck some drills will destroy themselves with the added inertia while breaking from high speed. I ruined my brushed dewalt 12v max drill doing this. Chuck that came with it was awful.
On their website its not showing an option for Rigid drills. I can't believe you can't put one on a Rigid drill. Let me know if this is somehow possible. Thanks, i appreciate it.
Does the chuck affect the clutch performance? In your other DeWalt clutch video you mentioned the DCD999 had a clutch that didn't work. In this video you mention the DCD999 has a great chuck. So I guess clutch and chuck are independent functions of a drill?
They are independent, yes. The clutch will perform the same regardless of what chuck is on it.
This is just a personal preference, but about 20 years ago my grandfather had about 10 ancient corded drills that all had solid steel chucks with the little gear/lever thing to tighten/loosen them. Well those drills eventually bit the dust (hes disabled from childhood polio so he spends his days either gardening or crafting) those chucks on modern drills are a combo made in heaven.
Those are called Keyed chucks. They still get plenty of use in machine shops for when a left-handed drill needs to be used. Most keyless chucks have a tendency to loosen when ran counter-clockwise.
Wow, great info BUT the website leaves a lot to be desired. It doesn't list my Makita XFD01 and when I clicked on the link for help, it didn't help.
‘Leaves a lot to be desired’ for YOU, but for me, I found help for all my DeWalt & Ryobi cordless drills, an ancient (circa 1962) corded 1/2” Craftsman (from my Dad), an almost-ancient (circa 70’s) corded 3/8” Montgomery Wards (first drill I ever purchased).
I did not find an almost-ancient (circa 70’s) JC Penney’s. Yes, they at one time sold a few home-DIY power tools.
I’ll slowly be upgrading a few of these … slowly because these are quality chucks, and my budget will take a hit 🧐
Voy a probarlo. Gracias
I've been cursing the concentricity of these drill drivers forever. Doesn't matter if it's a cheap brand or Metabo, or Dewalt (have owned these two and checked out even more at the store).
Can you honestly say that the chuck replacement has singlehandedly fixed the centre runout, or have you discovered that it was partly due to the chuck, but also some runout is left due to tolerances of the gearbox or motor spindle?
If they made a 4 jaw chuck I’d buy it instantly I use drills for tapping probable half the time and I hate grinding 3 flats on the tap.
When I was just a Pup in the mid ‘80s we had to change our own chucks ... they had just come out with the keyless chuck and you had to upgrade the drill on your own....
LOL on my DeWalt DCD999 there is nothing there to unscrew to remove the chuck head, all is see is a shaft a round shaft in the middle of the chuck with a little circle, if you have one of these DeWalt's 999 take a look at yours
Calling Jacob’s lower quality is insanity
Hermano, brother tengo un taladro de brushless Total modelo:TIDLI206O5 , pero no me permite poner el modelo en catalogo de reconocimiento de rom que hago porfavor saludos desde el Cuartel de Bomberos 🚒 de Gamboa Panamá 🇵🇦 Bendiciones . Bless you
Could be a nice upgrade for my 10 year old Ryobi drill.
fun fact. the 80Nm Parkside from Lidl (a cheap brushless from the grocery store) also comes with Rohm
What’s funny is the Rohm chick on my dewalt 1/2” drill is the one that is failing and dropping bits after some use. It has done it since day one, never seems to get tight enough
Went to the website and neither of the 18-volt Ryobi P206 or Ridgid R86008 are on the list due to their age however I know that both are made by AEG. Thankfully both are identically labeled with the same like ID tag which indicates both are 13mm (1/2"). Both models are so old that batteries are no longer made by the OEM and I had to outsource to a clone mfg company for replacements which ironically, both model clone batteries which are STILL in use outlasted the OEM batteries by many times and hold their charge forever it seems. Either way, both of these drill / driver instruments are just the best ever made and have held up very very well for many years which is why I won't replace them. As for battery operated impacts, I only use Milwaukee which I have 3/8", 1/2", heavy 3/4", and the massive truck 1".
Excelente idea
7:29 Using the "reverse" will spin the chuck right of again😂