I’m a design engineer for a precision air tool manufacturer for aerospace and defense applications, we ran through a gamut of chucks and transitioned to ROHM chucks several years ago. Each time I’ve tested them they’ve held .001 runout at 2" to 3" from the rear face of the chuck depending on the size of the chuck. They hold drills better than most as well. We run them over 6,000 rpm in many applications.
@@agg42 a lot of that comes down to being able to fit our product line, cost vs performance, and availability. Albrecht primarily makes mill chucks that are larger and heavier than the chucks we were looking for. Is there a different product line that they have that would fit a 1/2HP palm drill up to a 1.5HP air drill?
@@SOHCHEADJust out of curiosity, do you by any chance have a list of the various chucks you compared? Maybe a ranking system? Just curious as I'm in the market and have had my eye on a Jacobs chuck...
The disclosure should not be easily missed PER FTC guidelines. If someone doesn't watch all the way to the end of the video no one would know this is a sponsored video. Disclosures should be hard to miss. Per FTC 101 for Social Media Influencers. Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. BTW - these are $50-$70. NO TESTING. The testing section has no actual comparison of the advertised chuck to another brand like Jacobs (which are good chucks!). In one shot you see a hole supposedly drilled with another chuck where the bit wobbles around in the hole. FAKE!?. That DOES NOT happen. A plastic chuck would do better than that. This is why people like Project Farm so much. You can trust that channel. PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. should be at the front, not end, and at the top of the description (it's 7 lines down).
I have DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch drills. When trying to drill straight and precise in certain applications they all have noticeable wobble. Especially the DeWalt.
You have no clearly stated that this is a sponsored video. Sponsored content should not be hard to discern by the viewer. It is to be communicated to your viewer as soon as possible in a "hard to miss" manner per FTC regulations. Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
Röhm is the go to Manufacturer when it comes to chucks, tool or part holding. They are the best of the best, doesnt matter if on the Lathe, on the Mill or as you shown on the Cordless Drill. If you can, always choose Röhm, Quality from Germany. Another thing ... i never in my live heared anyone say that Woodworkers are geared towards accuracy ... We have a saying in Germany and i try to translate it as best as i can. Metalworkers work in micrometers, woodworkers work in milimeters and brick layers have to see that they are on the right property.
Yeah, it would have been nice to have the sponsorship more prominently located. But, in all fairness, Rohm does make fantastic chucks, not just for handheld drills but also for all other drill applications.
Great topic. An excellent alternative if you have a cheaper drill that you don’t feel like spending a lot on is the Jacobs brand chucks. At one time, Jacob’s was the premier chuck available, but they have become Chinese since. Their chucks are not as great as they used to be but still way better what comes on 90% of the drills today. They are also very reasonable with some excellent models under $10.
Now I'm going through ALL of my drills and seeing what chucks are on them haha! Never thought about this type of upgrade. Thanks so much for letting us know Nils.
While you should have revealed that this was a paid promotion upfront, I none the less appreciated the video. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that I really like but the chuck has been giving me issues (very difficult to loosen after tightening). I wanted to do something about it but wasn't aware that replacement chucks were available so it looks like I'll be heading over to ROHM for a new one.
Chuck removal tip : If the left-handed chuck screw won’t loosen, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten the chuck tighter onto the spindle then remove the screw then remove the chuck. The purpose of the LH screw is to help keep the chuck from unscrewing when using the drill in reverse and if the chuck has unscrewed itself, it will be jammed against the screw making removal of the screw difficult.
This is just a personal preference, but about 20 years ago my grandfather had about 10 ancient corded drills that all had solid steel chucks with the little gear/lever thing to tighten/loosen them. Well those drills eventually bit the dust (hes disabled from childhood polio so he spends his days either gardening or crafting) those chucks on modern drills are a combo made in heaven.
Those are called Keyed chucks. They still get plenty of use in machine shops for when a left-handed drill needs to be used. Most keyless chucks have a tendency to loosen when ran counter-clockwise.
6:47 "forward" direction is only to remove the holding/locking screw that is reverse-threaded, to remove the chuck, you need to be in the reverse direction, otherwise you'll be tightening the chuck. Same concept at 7:43, first you need to put it in forward to put the chuck on, then in reverse to tighten the locking screw.
I knew I had a bad chuck on one of my cordless drills, so this was a good time to check all of them. I made a simple setup on my welding table, lightly clamped the drill to the table, chucked a steel dowel pin in the drill and checked the runout. The bad one was .01, the other 2 were .005 and .004. Not too bad for a cordless drill. I ordered a new Rohm chuck and replaced the bad one. It tested at .002. The one that is at .004 is a standard Dewalt chuck replaced a year ago.
2:57 I wouldn't typically think of a Jacob's chuck as lower quality. Are you asserting that Jacob's made an inferior chuck for Flex? Or was it your personal experience that led you to that conclusion?
I tested the Jacobs chuck before and after swapping it out for the Rohm and it ran straighter (the bit) and felt tighter with the Röhm. Jacobs chucks aren’t bad chucks, they’re just not manufactured with the same quality control and engineering as Röhm. Jacobs no longer makes chucks in America. Rohm’s are designed and manufactured in Germany, where a close eye is kept on QC.
Jacob’s has deteriorated in quality, their chucks are no longer viable for precision work. Their runout and ability to hold are significantly worse than they used to be, likely before manufacturing moved. Röhm makes a solid chuck that I’ve yet to see run the same loss of quality as Jacob’s.
Great tip--thank you. In return, I have one tip for you. At 5:39, you should flip the channel locks over to greatly reduce the amount of effort it takes to grip something with the channel locks. I know you know this because I saw the video you made on this topic. I learned how to properly use channel locks back in high school, some 45 years ago, so I immediately see when people are using them wrong. I'm guessing you're having a hard time breaking that old habit, huh? In either case, thanks again for the informative video on the chuck upgrade.
Good timing I've been looking for a decent chuck the last week, I just got a new Makita drill with a metal chuckk, and it made me realize how crappy the one on the subcompact drill is…
I change the chuck on my craftsman heavy duty drill 20 years ago. Best upgrade I ever did to that drill. The original couldn’t handle 1/2 drill bits and didn’t hold the bits after a year of use.
I’ve been a 3rd generation Carpenter for 20 years among other types of work auto mechanic steel, different types of metal work I have all types of drills and Flex is an amazing powerful machine but the chucks aren’t great I tried to change the anvil on my impact to a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 hex inside the 3/8 for my own versatility options and efficiency but for love of god and can’t find an anvil to fit to replace it 😂 hoping you could help being your the drill master in my opinion hope to hear from you or someone else who’s had this issue I can’t be the only one because I want to keep my Flex impact and not have to have another impact for my uses it’s more power that I need just a an anvil will do thanks
I have a bit mixed feelings about the whole saga with the "locking" chucks thing tbh. The first video was just straight up wrong, where the main complaints were the spreading of misinformation and the lack of research when this information is pretty much openly available. I mean, if you call customer service youre not gonna talk to an engineer, you are gonna talk to a 20 year old who just needed a job and will say whatever makes you get off the line so they dont get yelled at for taking too long. The second video did at least correct the wrong information, but none of the others were addressed at all. Instead choosing to focus on how well the video did and angling things as "those darn companies was wrong" Idk it just makes me skeptical to the other things you do now, like praising a new chuck as the best thing since sliced bread, breathing new life into an old drill and whatnot? If you have a bad chuck, sure, but the rest of it sounds pretty dubious ngl. "Get into tight spaces" with the 2mm you save and what not.
That's perfect for what I currently do with keyed steel chucks which is drill and tap them 1/2"-13 (using a lathe to keep things concentric) then turn my angle grinders into high speed right angle die grinders but without dragging another tool in the bucket. Thanks for the video! Many drills have inferior chucks for which these are an upgrade. Their larger cousins are popular in machine tool usage.
Basically a commercial for Rohm. Learning better drill control will far outweigh any advantage changing a drill chuck would give, unless the chuck is severely damaged or complete junk like on china knock off.
Ive done this for years. One thing I’ve learned, if you replace a light plastic chuck with a nice metal rohm chuck some drills will destroy themselves with the added inertia while breaking from high speed. I ruined my brushed dewalt 12v max drill doing this. Chuck that came with it was awful.
I love my battery powered Dewalt Drills but my older plug in drills while still powerful give me a lot of grief because the chucks are incredibly hard to open to their full capacity and do not lock properly. Why didn’t we know that we could replace the chucks? I’m going to check my drill models and order the appropriate chuck. Thank you for this video.
Hey, as a German myself, I am kind of sad that you talk the entire video about the capital of Italy and not the German Company Röhm with an ö! To be honest, it is pronounced quite differently! But great Video by the way. :)
One of my first cordless drills was a Bosch I bought in 1988. The dealer sold me a Jacobs chuck at the time I bought it, That combo was unbeatable for years until the batteries died and I couldn't get replacements.
I've been cursing the concentricity of these drill drivers forever. Doesn't matter if it's a cheap brand or Metabo, or Dewalt (have owned these two and checked out even more at the store). Can you honestly say that the chuck replacement has singlehandedly fixed the centre runout, or have you discovered that it was partly due to the chuck, but also some runout is left due to tolerances of the gearbox or motor spindle?
My Milwaukee chucks are awsome, never had any issues like you mentioned and replacing it with the on you mentioned would if anything be a downgrade. Tested alot of chucks and Milwaukee are simply awesome
@@v8tergt653 I've noticed it's worst on the FPD3 (2904?) but I think it might be due to the hammer functionality, though that doesn't casue issues in other drills. Mitigated with a better chuck.
Great presentation! I have a Dewalt brushless that came with a terrible chuck. Gave me all kinds of problems right out of the box. I can't seem to find a fastener down inside the chuck and I've read you have to take the drill all apart to break it loose. Any experience with this?
They have purposely made it almost impossible to replace it without destroying the drill in the process. Its the same with my dewalt drill. They presumably want you to buy a new drill once the chuck gives up. If you search how to remove the chuck for the model number on youtube you'll probably find a video that shows how to do it, but its a PITA and a high chance of destroying the drill as you need to apply so much force and take the drill to bits.
I have a DCD800 Dewalt that had a terrible chuck out of the box. I took it back and exchanged it. Second one had wobble too. Decided to change it out with a Rohm. This is an "around the house" drill for me, so i settled on a method to remove the chuck. This may make you cringe, and i don't really recommend it. I chucked up a 3\8" hex bit with a 1\2" square drive into the stock chuck and stuck an impact on the bit. I had the drill in reverse at a slow speed and burped the impact. It broke free immediately and spun right off. I havent seen anyone else use that method, but it worked perfect for me. I may have to try it on a few other drill, for science of course.
@@Cpm0487 Hey just to clarify, I assume you removed the backwards-threaded torx before you impacted the chuck off? Tangentially related, anybody know if the 794 takes the same Rohm Extra-RV50-13 (1322451) as the rest of the DeWalts? It doesn't show up in their finder...and the OEM chuck is plastic...
I use the Worx drill can I upgrade the chuck? I love this little drill it's perfect for what I use it for I know it's not top of the line but I love it
I had a cheap drill chuck broke and replaced it with a dacade old chuck from a broke DeWalt I had lying around, it't a Rohm one and indeed better than the factory one :)
Sadly Jacobs has moved at least some production to China. Companies like Stanley B&D know that customers associate Jacobs with quality so they use Chinese Jacobs chucks. The customer sees the brand name they have used all their life and has no idea the product is different.
Years ago my favorite battery drill was a Skil Top Gun 12V. All steel transmission gears. Kinda heavy but rock solid. NiCad batteries (sealed & unserviceable) were a low point. But putting on a new keyless chuck was a game changer upgrade. I still have the drill. Finding better components isn't easy. Better than the interrupting ads inserted by Alphabet Co.
Dewalt chucks are normally fitted with high torque. May have to use an angle grinder to cut within a 32nd of an inch of the threaded rod, which usually releases enough torque to allow easy removal of what is left of the chuck.
this is funny back in 2017 i was on the hunt on upgrading my chuck but no one talk about it , so i left the stock chuck on it but now i know what brand to get :D
My DeWalt's all have Rohm chucks, OEM, but bought upgraded Rohm chucks for the hammer function drills. Same for my drill press, only Rohm had the proper taper on a high-precision keyless chuck. Each chuck ran $100 - $150 but worth the premium.
When I was just a Pup in the mid ‘80s we had to change our own chucks ... they had just come out with the keyless chuck and you had to upgrade the drill on your own....
Went to the website and neither of the 18-volt Ryobi P206 or Ridgid R86008 are on the list due to their age however I know that both are made by AEG. Thankfully both are identically labeled with the same like ID tag which indicates both are 13mm (1/2"). Both models are so old that batteries are no longer made by the OEM and I had to outsource to a clone mfg company for replacements which ironically, both model clone batteries which are STILL in use outlasted the OEM batteries by many times and hold their charge forever it seems. Either way, both of these drill / driver instruments are just the best ever made and have held up very very well for many years which is why I won't replace them. As for battery operated impacts, I only use Milwaukee which I have 3/8", 1/2", heavy 3/4", and the massive truck 1".
Great Video!! I have a Dewalt DCD771 1/2" (13mm) Drill Driver but its not listed on the Rohm website. What do I do? Need to replace chuck. Don't believe it has a Rohm chuck lol. Thank you!!!
I've got the Makita Subcompact drill, which came with a Rohm chuck. Contrary to its reputation, this particular plastic chuck has a rather annoying ratcheting issue. It has vastly better grip than my Dewalt DCB805, but my best chuck experience was with Milwaukee
@@GageDrumssame here with both my Gen 1 and now Gen 3 M12 Fuel drills. No issues with their metal chucks. My installation driver also came with a metal chuck. Haven’t used it much though.
I guess RÖHM as well as many other brands have quality tiers among their products. The plastic housing on that chuck is a dead giveaway that corners were cut
Nills , you need to do some more research on chucks . You need to review the history of the Jacob’s Chuck company. The tool and die companies, most if not all matching companies use Jacob’s chucks . Jacob’s has been the industry standard in precision machining for decades . If you don’t believe me , look it up !
My question is if the higher end models already have a rohm chuck, if you get one from the website will it be the same as the factory one or a different better/smaller one?
How to remove a chuck in Dewalt dcd800 drill? Three is a rounded pin to secure a spindle. My only idea is to drill a pin to make possible to unscrew the Chuck.
I own the flex turbo hammer drill FX 1271T and I noticed that you upgraded yours. Can’t seem to find this model on the Roehm website. Can you clarify which model I should buy?
yo le hice una mejora al chuck. calente un pedazo de tubo de plastico a la medida del chuck y con algo caliente le hice rombos de agarre y asi no se resbala ni desgasta el metal con el uso
I love all the commenters not realize this was an infomercial in the first 15 seconds. An infomercial with useful information. Makes me kind of wonder how bright your followers are?
What’s funny is the Rohm chick on my dewalt 1/2” drill is the one that is failing and dropping bits after some use. It has done it since day one, never seems to get tight enough
Does the chuck affect the clutch performance? In your other DeWalt clutch video you mentioned the DCD999 had a clutch that didn't work. In this video you mention the DCD999 has a great chuck. So I guess clutch and chuck are independent functions of a drill?
You mentioned batteries earlier and I was wondering if you've had any experience with the off brand 18v Ni-Cad replacements for Porter Cable tools. My impact driver is fairly old, obviously, and I'd rather not spend the price of a new driver on replacement batteries, especially since I only use it occasionally. Thanks, W
If you have a few tools and batteries I would get a battery adapter for the porter cable and buy lithium batteries to use on them. And a new charger & batteries porter cable maybe?
It sure could. The chuck should be able to release the bit with a normal amount of backwards pressure. If it’s not doing that, it could be a chuck issue.
Do Röhm make cheaper budget chucks? I have a drill by parkside that cost €70 as a kit and has a Röhm 13mm metal chuck on it so curious if it's the same as on pro tools Edit: it looks identical to the extra50-RV but it's longer, like 70mm
I just looked at my Dewalt 20 volt drill. I don’t see a name on the chuck, I opened it wide enough to look inside and it doesn’t seem to have a removable bolt. What is your opinion on that?
Not cost effective, nor necessary, for all my drills, but I did upgrade my high end DeWalt so that I have one I can depend on for critical/heavy work. It is like a tank now.
Which ROHM Chuck do I pick between the EXTRA80-RV and EXTRA50-RV and why, for odd jobs and mods around the house on a Dewalt DCD800E2 drill with no hammer function?
It seems that after some online pic comparison that I have on my Dewalt DCD800E2 from the factory the Jacobs flagship 8000 series metal chuck. You can tell by the design of it and by the color of the jaws vs the pics on Jacobs website. However, they make two kinds of jaws one with carbide and one with steel, and I am not sure which is the one that I have. That said, I am thinking this may be good enough for my uses and not terribly worth the upgrade to the ROHM EXTRA80-RV or ROHM EXTRA50-RV. Especially if the install is any harder than what's in this video.
you may think it's an awesome chuck but I have always hated it and actually had better luck with my drill bits staying in with that one that you claimed to be lower end. My Dewalt chucks a re always coming loose and the bits fall out. The chucks have done this for many years. And yes i have tried the lock on the chuck with no better results. I think they need to be redesigned.
Does anyone know if I can remove chuck on m12 gen 3 hammer drill by applying high torque application in reverse with screw removed? hex key and hummer doesn't help
is there a chuck for a rotary hammer (sds plus)? my hammer bit is wabbling like crazy and its impossible to drill precision holes on there own, I use a hilti drill to predrill a small hole before I use the rotary hammer, but this isn't fun changing tools and sizes.
Should have said this was a paid promotional vid from the start. Your not wrong in what you have said here but Roehm is only one of many companies that make quality chucks. Makitas metal chucks are from a japanese chuck manufacturer with a good reputation. Also dont compare something of quality to Mercedes. They are not a quality car brand
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m a design engineer for a precision air tool manufacturer for aerospace and defense applications, we ran through a gamut of chucks and transitioned to ROHM chucks several years ago. Each time I’ve tested them they’ve held .001 runout at 2" to 3" from the rear face of the chuck depending on the size of the chuck. They hold drills better than most as well. We run them over 6,000 rpm in many applications.
Surprised Rohm won out over entirely better brand like Albrecht.
@@agg42 a lot of that comes down to being able to fit our product line, cost vs performance, and availability. Albrecht primarily makes mill chucks that are larger and heavier than the chucks we were looking for.
Is there a different product line that they have that would fit a 1/2HP palm drill up to a 1.5HP air drill?
You just saved me from watching this. Appreciate that
@@SOHCHEADJust out of curiosity, do you by any chance have a list of the various chucks you compared? Maybe a ranking system? Just curious as I'm in the market and have had my eye on a Jacobs chuck...
Saying this is a paid promotion at the start of the video, instead of the end, is much more ethical, IMHO.
The disclosure should not be easily missed PER FTC guidelines. If someone doesn't watch all the way to the end of the video no one would know this is a sponsored video.
Disclosures should be hard to miss.
Per FTC 101 for Social Media Influencers.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
Didn’t finish the video entirely and I had no idea it was sponsored.
Not only that, it's an FTC violation.
That's our boy for you. Decent, patient, honest and true.
First and last time I will watch this channel
PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. BTW - these are $50-$70. NO TESTING. The testing section has no actual comparison of the advertised chuck to another brand like Jacobs (which are good chucks!). In one shot you see a hole supposedly drilled with another chuck where the bit wobbles around in the hole. FAKE!?. That DOES NOT happen. A plastic chuck would do better than that. This is why people like Project Farm so much. You can trust that channel. PROMOTIONAL VIDEO. should be at the front, not end, and at the top of the description (it's 7 lines down).
I have DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Bosch drills. When trying to drill straight and precise in certain applications they all have noticeable wobble. Especially the DeWalt.
You have no clearly stated that this is a sponsored video. Sponsored content should not be hard to discern by the viewer. It is to be communicated to your viewer as soon as possible in a "hard to miss" manner per FTC regulations.
Disclosures are likely to be missed if they appear only on an ABOUT ME or profile page, at the end of posts or videos, or anywhere that requires a person to click MORE.
It's in the description. Learn to read
@@ConsolGameRyou should learn to read. Please reread the comment above.
Röhm is the go to Manufacturer when it comes to chucks, tool or part holding. They are the best of the best, doesnt matter if on the Lathe, on the Mill or as you shown on the Cordless Drill. If you can, always choose Röhm, Quality from Germany.
Another thing ... i never in my live heared anyone say that Woodworkers are geared towards accuracy ... We have a saying in Germany and i try to translate it as best as i can. Metalworkers work in micrometers, woodworkers work in milimeters and brick layers have to see that they are on the right property.
I was sold when you pointed out how the chuck could turn my normal size drill into a compact by shortening an eight of an inch. Amazing
😂
I've actually lusted after a Sioux angle drill for several decades, but never got around to buying one.
Lol
Too funny
Nice infomercial on Rohm drill chucks. They should get a lot of business from it. 👍
Yeah, it would have been nice to have the sponsorship more prominently located. But, in all fairness, Rohm does make fantastic chucks, not just for handheld drills but also for all other drill applications.
Report his video. Make him stop treating you like this.
@@Psyopcyclops 🤷♂️ for what ? 🤦♂️
Your credibility suffers when you fail to disclose this is an infomercial
Great topic. An excellent alternative if you have a cheaper drill that you don’t feel like spending a lot on is the Jacobs brand chucks. At one time, Jacob’s was the premier chuck available, but they have become Chinese since. Their chucks are not as great as they used to be but still way better what comes on 90% of the drills today. They are also very reasonable with some excellent models under $10.
This hidden sponsorship is a bit slimy
Your ignorance is not surprising
@@ChasVS391 Your ignorance of the FTC guidelines doesn’t surprise me either.
Now I'm going through ALL of my drills and seeing what chucks are on them haha! Never thought about this type of upgrade. Thanks so much for letting us know Nils.
This was news to me not that long ago too. It’s been cool to see the difference before and after. Thanks for watching, Brent!
While you should have revealed that this was a paid promotion upfront, I none the less appreciated the video. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill that I really like but the chuck has been giving me issues (very difficult to loosen after tightening). I wanted to do something about it but wasn't aware that replacement chucks were available so it looks like I'll be heading over to ROHM for a new one.
can't believe i sat here for 9 min watching a video on drill chucks. good job you kept a boring subject interesting.
Chuck removal tip : If the left-handed chuck screw won’t loosen, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten the chuck tighter onto the spindle then remove the screw then remove the chuck. The purpose of the LH screw is to help keep the chuck from unscrewing when using the drill in reverse and if the chuck has unscrewed itself, it will be jammed against the screw making removal of the screw difficult.
This is just a personal preference, but about 20 years ago my grandfather had about 10 ancient corded drills that all had solid steel chucks with the little gear/lever thing to tighten/loosen them. Well those drills eventually bit the dust (hes disabled from childhood polio so he spends his days either gardening or crafting) those chucks on modern drills are a combo made in heaven.
Those are called Keyed chucks. They still get plenty of use in machine shops for when a left-handed drill needs to be used. Most keyless chucks have a tendency to loosen when ran counter-clockwise.
6:47 "forward" direction is only to remove the holding/locking screw that is reverse-threaded, to remove the chuck, you need to be in the reverse direction, otherwise you'll be tightening the chuck.
Same concept at 7:43, first you need to put it in forward to put the chuck on, then in reverse to tighten the locking screw.
I knew I had a bad chuck on one of my cordless drills, so this was a good time to check all of them. I made a simple setup on my welding table, lightly clamped the drill to the table, chucked a steel dowel pin in the drill and checked the runout. The bad one was .01, the other 2 were .005 and .004. Not too bad for a cordless drill. I ordered a new Rohm chuck and replaced the bad one. It tested at .002. The one that is at .004 is a standard Dewalt chuck replaced a year ago.
2:57 I wouldn't typically think of a Jacob's chuck as lower quality. Are you asserting that Jacob's made an inferior chuck for Flex? Or was it your personal experience that led you to that conclusion?
I tested the Jacobs chuck before and after swapping it out for the Rohm and it ran straighter (the bit) and felt tighter with the Röhm. Jacobs chucks aren’t bad chucks, they’re just not manufactured with the same quality control and engineering as Röhm. Jacobs no longer makes chucks in America. Rohm’s are designed and manufactured in Germany, where a close eye is kept on QC.
Jacob’s has deteriorated in quality, their chucks are no longer viable for precision work.
Their runout and ability to hold are significantly worse than they used to be, likely before manufacturing moved. Röhm makes a solid chuck that I’ve yet to see run the same loss of quality as Jacob’s.
@@LRN2DIY Its a shame to see so many big US brands move manufacturing to China. I even noticed some Estwing hammers are now made in China.
@@SOHCHEAD
Mine are so old and last so long, I didn't even know about current quality.
@@noire1001 I hadn't heard that about Estwing. Sad.
I didn't hear you mention what Rohm stated about backing up the chuck one click when changing bits. Did I miss it?
That was just a segue to the 8 minute advert.
Rohm is like Mercedes? Better avoid it then
Great tip--thank you. In return, I have one tip for you. At 5:39, you should flip the channel locks over to greatly reduce the amount of effort it takes to grip something with the channel locks. I know you know this because I saw the video you made on this topic. I learned how to properly use channel locks back in high school, some 45 years ago, so I immediately see when people are using them wrong. I'm guessing you're having a hard time breaking that old habit, huh? In either case, thanks again for the informative video on the chuck upgrade.
Good timing I've been looking for a decent chuck the last week, I just got a new Makita drill with a metal chuckk, and it made me realize how crappy the one on the subcompact drill is…
I've always used Jacobs in the past, and I've been very satisfied with them. I'll have to check out the roehm chucks.
I change the chuck on my craftsman heavy duty drill 20 years ago. Best upgrade I ever did to that drill. The original couldn’t handle 1/2 drill bits and didn’t hold the bits after a year of use.
Makita’s metal chucks are awesome. Japanese made. I swapped the Makita plastic chucks for the metal ones on a few
I’ve been a 3rd generation Carpenter for 20 years among other types of work auto mechanic steel, different types of metal work I have all types of drills and Flex is an amazing powerful machine but the chucks aren’t great I tried to change the anvil on my impact to a 3/8 socket drive with a 1/4 hex inside the 3/8 for my own versatility options and efficiency but for love of god and can’t find an anvil to fit to replace it 😂 hoping you could help being your the drill master in my opinion hope to hear from you or someone else who’s had this issue I can’t be the only one because I want to keep my Flex impact and not have to have another impact for my uses it’s more power that I need just a an anvil will do thanks
I have a bit mixed feelings about the whole saga with the "locking" chucks thing tbh. The first video was just straight up wrong, where the main complaints were the spreading of misinformation and the lack of research when this information is pretty much openly available. I mean, if you call customer service youre not gonna talk to an engineer, you are gonna talk to a 20 year old who just needed a job and will say whatever makes you get off the line so they dont get yelled at for taking too long.
The second video did at least correct the wrong information, but none of the others were addressed at all. Instead choosing to focus on how well the video did and angling things as "those darn companies was wrong"
Idk it just makes me skeptical to the other things you do now, like praising a new chuck as the best thing since sliced bread, breathing new life into an old drill and whatnot? If you have a bad chuck, sure, but the rest of it sounds pretty dubious ngl. "Get into tight spaces" with the 2mm you save and what not.
And if you get to the very end of the video, he mentions its sponsored by Rohm. Not exactly up front.
That's perfect for what I currently do with keyed steel chucks which is drill and tap them 1/2"-13 (using a lathe to keep things concentric) then turn my angle grinders into high speed right angle die grinders but without dragging another tool in the bucket. Thanks for the video! Many drills have inferior chucks for which these are an upgrade. Their larger cousins are popular in machine tool usage.
Excelente mi Hermano, no conocía del Chuck
Rom
Great video. Never knew that chucks could be upgraded or Rohm as a premium chuck. Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks for this. I have a drill that needs a new chuck. Wasn’t sure where to get one.
Basically a commercial for Rohm. Learning better drill control will far outweigh any advantage changing a drill chuck would give, unless the chuck is severely damaged or complete junk like on china knock off.
Ive done this for years. One thing I’ve learned, if you replace a light plastic chuck with a nice metal rohm chuck some drills will destroy themselves with the added inertia while breaking from high speed. I ruined my brushed dewalt 12v max drill doing this. Chuck that came with it was awful.
fun fact. the 80Nm Parkside from Lidl (a cheap brushless from the grocery store) also comes with Rohm
I love my battery powered Dewalt Drills but my older plug in drills while still powerful give me a lot of grief because the chucks are incredibly hard to open to their full capacity and do not lock properly.
Why didn’t we know that we could replace the chucks? I’m going to check my drill models and order the appropriate chuck.
Thank you for this video.
Hey, as a German myself, I am kind of sad that you talk the entire video about the capital of Italy and not the German Company Röhm with an ö! To be honest, it is pronounced quite differently! But great Video by the way. :)
Bosch used to make the best drills and worst chucks. So they invented SDS to solve ths. Now we have 2 options.
One of my first cordless drills was a Bosch I bought in 1988. The dealer sold me a Jacobs chuck at the time I bought it, That combo was unbeatable for years until the batteries died and I couldn't get replacements.
I've been cursing the concentricity of these drill drivers forever. Doesn't matter if it's a cheap brand or Metabo, or Dewalt (have owned these two and checked out even more at the store).
Can you honestly say that the chuck replacement has singlehandedly fixed the centre runout, or have you discovered that it was partly due to the chuck, but also some runout is left due to tolerances of the gearbox or motor spindle?
If they made a 4 jaw chuck I’d buy it instantly I use drills for tapping probable half the time and I hate grinding 3 flats on the tap.
If you have loc-tite should you use blue or red?
My Milwaukee chucks are awsome, never had any issues like you mentioned and replacing it with the on you mentioned would if anything be a downgrade. Tested alot of chucks and Milwaukee are simply awesome
Are you sure? I use milwaukee too and the chucks suck!
@@tracklizard4018 Which model no drill do you have?
@@v8tergt653 I've noticed it's worst on the FPD3 (2904?) but I think it might be due to the hammer functionality, though that doesn't casue issues in other drills. Mitigated with a better chuck.
This video now need updating for modern drills that do not use a screw to hold the chuck..
Great presentation! I have a Dewalt brushless that came with a terrible chuck. Gave me all kinds of problems right out of the box. I can't seem to find a fastener down inside the chuck and I've read you have to take the drill all apart to break it loose. Any experience with this?
They have purposely made it almost impossible to replace it without destroying the drill in the process. Its the same with my dewalt drill. They presumably want you to buy a new drill once the chuck gives up. If you search how to remove the chuck for the model number on youtube you'll probably find a video that shows how to do it, but its a PITA and a high chance of destroying the drill as you need to apply so much force and take the drill to bits.
a lot... you neet to disaasemble whole device, put axis out of gearbox and then you can make it ;) there ino screw, just torque and glue
I have a DCD800 Dewalt that had a terrible chuck out of the box. I took it back and exchanged it. Second one had wobble too. Decided to change it out with a Rohm. This is an "around the house" drill for me, so i settled on a method to remove the chuck. This may make you cringe, and i don't really recommend it. I chucked up a 3\8" hex bit with a 1\2" square drive into the stock chuck and stuck an impact on the bit. I had the drill in reverse at a slow speed and burped the impact. It broke free immediately and spun right off. I havent seen anyone else use that method, but it worked perfect for me. I may have to try it on a few other drill, for science of course.
@@Cpm0487 At this point, I'm willing to try this method. Thank you!!
@@Cpm0487 Hey just to clarify, I assume you removed the backwards-threaded torx before you impacted the chuck off? Tangentially related, anybody know if the 794 takes the same Rohm Extra-RV50-13 (1322451) as the rest of the DeWalts? It doesn't show up in their finder...and the OEM chuck is plastic...
I use the Worx drill can I upgrade the chuck? I love this little drill it's perfect for what I use it for I know it's not top of the line but I love it
I had a cheap drill chuck broke and replaced it with a dacade old chuck from a broke DeWalt I had lying around, it't a Rohm one and indeed better than the factory one :)
After changing the head on my bosch gsr 180 with a rohm chuck it feels like a new drill loolz :) ty for this tip. I paid 30€ for the rohm chuck
Great stuff! Is it possible to replace a normal key chuck with a SDS chuck on any drill?
Use a soldering iron to heat up the locktight . Poke it in the end of the chuck
Rohm may be the Mercedes Benz of chucks BUT
Jacob's chucks are the Rolls-RoyceAt least the one's I have from many decades ago that are still like new.
Sadly Jacobs has moved at least some production to China.
Companies like Stanley B&D know that customers associate Jacobs with quality so they use Chinese Jacobs chucks.
The customer sees the brand name they have used all their life and has no idea the product is different.
Years ago my favorite battery drill was a Skil Top Gun 12V. All steel transmission gears. Kinda heavy but rock solid. NiCad batteries (sealed & unserviceable) were a low point. But putting on a new keyless chuck was a game changer upgrade. I still have the drill. Finding better components isn't easy. Better than the interrupting ads inserted by Alphabet Co.
Dewalt chucks are normally fitted with high torque. May have to use an angle grinder to cut within a 32nd of an inch of the threaded rod, which usually releases enough torque to allow easy removal of what is left of the chuck.
this is funny back in 2017 i was on the hunt on upgrading my chuck but no one talk about it , so i left the stock chuck on it but now i know what brand to get :D
Nice! I hope it helps!
@@LRN2DIY i dont see my model, i have a makita XFD10
@@CRAZCHEVBOY They have a section on their site for finding your spindle size if it's not listed: chuck-up.roehm.biz/en/instructions.html
My DeWalt's all have Rohm chucks, OEM, but bought upgraded Rohm chucks for the hammer function drills. Same for my drill press, only Rohm had the proper taper on a high-precision keyless chuck. Each chuck ran $100 - $150 but worth the premium.
When I was just a Pup in the mid ‘80s we had to change our own chucks ... they had just come out with the keyless chuck and you had to upgrade the drill on your own....
Jacobs makes some of the best chucks you can buy (as long as you are buying the right ones).
Wow holy moly 💩 I actually saw the pass wobble on that chuck & the precision on the Röhm chuck
Went to the website and neither of the 18-volt Ryobi P206 or Ridgid R86008 are on the list due to their age however I know that both are made by AEG. Thankfully both are identically labeled with the same like ID tag which indicates both are 13mm (1/2"). Both models are so old that batteries are no longer made by the OEM and I had to outsource to a clone mfg company for replacements which ironically, both model clone batteries which are STILL in use outlasted the OEM batteries by many times and hold their charge forever it seems. Either way, both of these drill / driver instruments are just the best ever made and have held up very very well for many years which is why I won't replace them. As for battery operated impacts, I only use Milwaukee which I have 3/8", 1/2", heavy 3/4", and the massive truck 1".
My Milwaukee gen 4 combi drill didn’t come with a rohm chuck. Well explained presentation.
I had perhaps a great idea of removing a seized chuck. What if you placed a bolt in the chuck and unscrew it with an impact driver ;)😊
Great Video!! I have a Dewalt DCD771 1/2" (13mm) Drill Driver but its not listed on the Rohm website. What do I do? Need to replace chuck. Don't believe it has a Rohm chuck lol. Thank you!!!
I've got the Makita Subcompact drill, which came with a Rohm chuck. Contrary to its reputation, this particular plastic chuck has a rather annoying ratcheting issue. It has vastly better grip than my Dewalt DCB805, but my best chuck experience was with Milwaukee
Yeah, that subcompact Chuck is my nemesis, It constantly lets go for me
My worst experience has been with Milwaukee chucks and collets.
@@jimmymac601 interesting.. My Milwaukee 12v has a metal Chuck that I find far superior to 5 plastic chucks on my dewalts
@@GageDrumssame here with both my Gen 1 and now Gen 3 M12 Fuel drills. No issues with their metal chucks. My installation driver also came with a metal chuck. Haven’t used it much though.
I guess RÖHM as well as many other brands have quality tiers among their products.
The plastic housing on that chuck is a dead giveaway that corners were cut
Nills , you need to do some more research on chucks . You need to review the history of the Jacob’s Chuck company. The tool and die companies, most if not all matching companies use Jacob’s chucks . Jacob’s has been the industry standard in precision machining for decades . If you don’t believe me , look it up !
Should be “manufacturing companies “
Great video just 1 Question do u have the DCD800. Did those come with a Rohm chuck
My question is if the higher end models already have a rohm chuck, if you get one from the website will it be the same as the factory one or a different better/smaller one?
It depends. From what I’ve seen with all my drills, the Rohm chuck that comes in your drills will be similar to a replacement one.
Rhom and Albrecht are THE BEST chucks you can have ! point !
How to remove a chuck in Dewalt dcd800 drill?
Three is a rounded pin to secure a spindle.
My only idea is to drill a pin to make possible to unscrew the Chuck.
Thanks for sharing. It is certainly worth my time.
Taking a chuck of is easy when the tools not been used and abused. Little bit more difficult then, but good guide!
Great Video. Will the Rohm Chuck in the Video Work on the New Gen 4 2904-20 Hammer Drill or does this Drill already have this chuck..
Thanks Allen D
Milwaukee drill sold in the US will usually have Jacobs Chucks on them.
Thanks was impressed, how I didn’t know, excellent video thanks for you time and tip
Saudações do Brazil muito bom canal, Sobre os Chuck Rohm os Jacobs são os The Best.
Yo tengo el DCD805XR, ese ya debe tener el mandril ROHM, y tb tengo el DCD999 FLEXVOL. 💪💪💪
I own the flex turbo hammer drill FX 1271T and I noticed that you upgraded yours. Can’t seem to find this model on the Roehm website. Can you clarify which model I should buy?
Didn’t even know such existed!!
Thanks
Bob
England
Thanks for watching, Bob! I hope you’ve been doing well, my friend.
@@LRN2DIY thanks matey
Anyone have a link to that chuck finder? I can't seem to find that particular page.
Same 😂
Link is in the description but here it is as well: roehm.biz/chuck-up/en
yo le hice una mejora al chuck. calente un pedazo de tubo de plastico a la medida del chuck y con algo caliente le hice rombos de agarre y asi no se resbala ni desgasta el metal con el uso
I love all the commenters not realize this was an infomercial in the first 15 seconds. An infomercial with useful information. Makes me kind of wonder how bright your followers are?
What’s funny is the Rohm chick on my dewalt 1/2” drill is the one that is failing and dropping bits after some use. It has done it since day one, never seems to get tight enough
Could be a nice upgrade for my 10 year old Ryobi drill.
I’ve only used my drill a handful of times since getting my impact driver years ago.
Does the chuck affect the clutch performance? In your other DeWalt clutch video you mentioned the DCD999 had a clutch that didn't work. In this video you mention the DCD999 has a great chuck. So I guess clutch and chuck are independent functions of a drill?
They are independent, yes. The clutch will perform the same regardless of what chuck is on it.
You mentioned batteries earlier and I was wondering if you've had any experience with the off brand 18v Ni-Cad replacements for Porter Cable tools. My impact driver is fairly old, obviously, and I'd rather not spend the price of a new driver on replacement batteries, especially since I only use it occasionally.
Thanks, W
I can’t say that I have any experience with that, but if they’re not too expensive, it might be worth a quick try.
If you have a few tools and batteries I would get a battery adapter for the porter cable and buy lithium batteries to use on them.
And a new charger & batteries porter cable maybe?
@@kristene2372That's a thought. I'll have to see what's available. Most of the lithium batteries I've seen when searching are 20v.
Thank you! W
what voltage is the old p/c ? 14.4v 18v?
@@kristene2372 18v Ni-Cad
Se agradece el audio en español, Chevere!
Thank you!!!!! Will be fixing two drills that I was ready to toss!!!!
I've had chucks that seem to not want to give up the bit. Any chance this might help that?
It sure could. The chuck should be able to release the bit with a normal amount of backwards pressure. If it’s not doing that, it could be a chuck issue.
Do Röhm make cheaper budget chucks? I have a drill by parkside that cost €70 as a kit and has a Röhm 13mm metal chuck on it so curious if it's the same as on pro tools
Edit: it looks identical to the extra50-RV but it's longer, like 70mm
The same chuck. The manufacturer of the Parkside drill/drivers use Rohm in their own brand and just pick their off the shelf chuck.
I just looked at my Dewalt 20 volt drill. I don’t see a name on the chuck, I opened it wide enough to look inside and it doesn’t seem to have a removable bolt. What is your opinion on that?
you need to disassemble drill to put axis with chuck from gearbox, that it is simple. Originals are metal ones are Rohm, plastics are Jacobs
Not cost effective, nor necessary, for all my drills, but I did upgrade my high end DeWalt so that I have one I can depend on for critical/heavy work. It is like a tank now.
Just checked my chuck spindle size was 10mm coming in both 3/8 and 1/2 inch chuck could I put the 1/2 on to fit larger bits
Which ROHM Chuck do I pick between the EXTRA80-RV and EXTRA50-RV and why, for odd jobs and mods around the house on a Dewalt DCD800E2 drill with no hammer function?
It seems that after some online pic comparison that I have on my Dewalt DCD800E2 from the factory the Jacobs flagship 8000 series metal chuck. You can tell by the design of it and by the color of the jaws vs the pics on Jacobs website. However, they make two kinds of jaws one with carbide and one with steel, and I am not sure which is the one that I have. That said, I am thinking this may be good enough for my uses and not terribly worth the upgrade to the ROHM EXTRA80-RV or ROHM EXTRA50-RV. Especially if the install is any harder than what's in this video.
Q buen video gracias por la explicación 👍 saludos desde Perú
I wish Panasonic hadn’t lost interest in tools. I still prefer their chucks to others. The streamlined taper with gripped ridges.
Panasonic was one of the last outfits to stick with metal gears.
Nearly indestructible from what I have heard.
@@1978garfield Yes, and the ergonomics are excellent too. They really mastered the cordless drill. It’s the Porsche 911 of drills.
you may think it's an awesome chuck but I have always hated it and actually had better luck with my drill bits staying in with that one that you claimed to be lower end. My Dewalt chucks a re always coming loose and the bits fall out. The chucks have done this for many years. And yes i have tried the lock on the chuck with no better results. I think they need to be redesigned.
reminds me the chuck on my corded right angle drill annoys me every time I have to change bits, because it's sticky right at that size range.
Does anyone know if I can remove chuck on m12 gen 3 hammer drill by applying high torque application in reverse with screw removed? hex key and hummer doesn't help
Calling Jacob’s lower quality is insanity
is there a chuck for a rotary hammer (sds plus)? my hammer bit is wabbling like crazy and its impossible to drill precision holes on there own, I use a hilti drill to predrill a small hole before I use the rotary hammer, but this isn't fun changing tools and sizes.
Thanks ! Great timing,. I have several chucks that definitely need to be replaced.
Should have said this was a paid promotional vid from the start.
Your not wrong in what you have said here but Roehm is only one of many companies that make quality chucks. Makitas metal chucks are from a japanese chuck manufacturer with a good reputation.
Also dont compare something of quality to Mercedes. They are not a quality car brand
Japanese manufacture is Yukiwa.
Thanks that was a great recommendation!
Are the threads on the drill where the chuck screws on universal in size?