How to Transform Your 3D Prints into Realistic Metal Props
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2024
- Baylan's Lightsaber file: shorturl.at/hlszS
Shin's Lightsaber file: shorturl.at/jnCT2
- My Links -
Instagram: / thearmorersforge
Etsy: thearmorersforge.etsy.com
Website: www.studioofmm.com
The result is mind-blowing
these both turned out beautifully !
Looks great. I have a lot to learn with painting but your videos help a ton. Just got a resin printer too so it’s time to finally make some higher quality props
I love how practical these effects are, using crumpled paper for texture and steel wool to make scratches, im adding these tricks to my brain
I love watching your detailed prop videos! Thanks for your great content!
Incredible
Job as always! Huge fan of your work
3D printing is so cool and the things you make, WOW!
They look amazing! Keep up the great work!
Wow! Those turned out great. Love the detailed breakdown of your process. Definitely going to give these painting techniques a try!
Thank you! Big fan of your work!
Beautiful work!
Yes! They look great! Subscribed.
Your work is insane great job 😊
Another well done video! They turned out fantastic, Great work!
Thank you!
Very nice! Well done with the entire project and video!
Looks great.
You crushed these paint jobs. Well done!
Thank you!
Wow!! You shared so much awesomeness in one project. New fan here!! 🥳
This made me want to get back into the studio! Thank you.
Beautiful work M.M.!
I've got Cal Kestis saber waiting to be printed on my Anycubic Mono 2, this painting looks awesome! Thanks!
Those look so amazing! I love your use of the watered down blacks/browns for weathering. I've never much cared for brushed on weathering because you can often see the brush marks afterwards.
I learned a little trick from a Brit who was trying to make his replica firearms have a blued steel finish on them. He would paint them with high-temp black paint used for bbq grills and then rub them down with stove polish (containing graphite) that could be rubbed to a soft shine. Creates this really cool worn, blued steel finish. The high-temp paint gives it the slightly worn texture while the stove polish gives it subtle blue and yellow hints of color in the reflections that resemble a blueing or color case hardening finish.
Oooo that sounds amazing! Definitely going to have to figure out a project to try that on. Thanks for the tip!
@@MMsPropShop I used it on a DL-44 blaster build on the Mauser body.
I've got an Anakin saber with about 2 hours left in the printer. I will definitely be using these tips for the paint job!
Well done!
Great job!
I bought your foot sander thingie that you recommended and it’s the best purchase I’ve ever made for sanding prints!
Woohoo! Welcome to the foot sander club, haha! Glad it’s working out for you.
Most impressive!
amazing work as always.
Thanks!
Excellent!
Those look amazing! I'm working on 3D printed version of Lola's lightsaber from Star Wars Visions season 2 episode, Sith, and getting the paint right has been super frustrating. I had no idea that a gloss primer was a thing and I'm super excited to experiment with one! Thank you for sharing!
That’s such a cool lightsaber! Yes, essentially the shinier your base coat it, the shinier the metallic will look. Some metallic paints are more opaque and not as effected by the base they are applied on top of, but in a lot of cases the metallic paint is reflecting off of the surface it’s applied to which is why there can be such a difference between finishes.
You can also just add a gloss coat to any primer to make it shiner as long as the paint you’re applying on top of it doesn’t react strangely to the gloss.
Yes
Great video👍🏻
Nice!
I've been debating if 3d printing a Saber would be worth it. This looks amazing! Definitely giving it a shot.
Some designers have even started making versions that you can fit electronics into to have a working saber which is really awesome.
Those turned out very well! Thank you for sharing this process.
When printing lightsabers, is it okay to print them in the default vertical orientation? I've read a few resin printing guides that say it's usually best to orient models at an angle.
Have you tried Vallejo liquid metal paints? I have used them for years on minis and they have a wide choice of metals.
Your end product looks great!
They’re on my list to try; my usual stores are always sold out of them so it hasn’t happened yet lol
They look awesome! Thank you for the informational video! What is your routine with PSI and the number of passes for the glossy primer, alclad and clear coatsif I may ask?
Thanks! I typically spray the gloss black base around 10 PSI. Basically as low as possible that doesn’t involve the airbrush spitting out paint. It’s recommended to spray it at a much higher PSI but I found that I was constantly enveloped in a black cloud of paint vapour, so I downed the pressure. I just like doing the one pass, heavy enough that it’s wet looking once finished. For any metallic paint I do around 20 PSI, again one pass. Some of the metal paints will get cloudy if over applied. Great if you want something that looks less intensely chrome like. For clear I’m also around the 15-20 PSI range, one pass wet. The clear coat will always technically dull the metallic effect but it’s a necessary evil if you want the finish to last. If you don’t apply enough of the clear coat you can end up with a much duller finish. You want it to be as glassy/transparent as possible without over applying to the point where it’s running and dripping.
It’s one of those things that you get the hang of overtime with experience and figuring out what your preferences are in terms of finish.
@@MMsPropShop great, thanks so much!
i saw ur xmax 3 video and was wondering how are you still liking it and any issues?
Still love it. I have it printing ABS pieces constantly. The only issue I’ve had was caused by a bad roll of filament which messed up the hotend/extruder and QIDI customer service replaced any damaged parts without question. Completely unheard of with 95% of 3D printer companies.
They look fantastic!! What kind of resin printer?
It’s an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.
Have you done a Rey lightsaber? That looks like a fun multi-material project.
Not yet but I can see myself building a bunch of lightsabers in the future. They’re a relatively quick project compared to what I’m used to lol
Just discovered your channel - great videos. Could such prop be printed also on filament printer or the results would be way worse here? I hate layer lines but at the same time I would like to print things big sometimes and I am not sure I wanna buy both printers now :D
Absolutely! I just tend to resin print smaller props like this to try and save myself on post processing. FDM printers are better than they’ve ever been with quality of prints. Some of the extremely fine detail might not translate as much on a filament printer (like the ridged ring on Shin’s saber) but the overall look of the prop should be able to be the same.
These look really great! Did you make the stands too?
Thanks! No, it’s a couple of these ones: amzn.to/498ndqK
@MMsPropShop Thanks, I didn't realise you could just like, buy these! lol! I thought I'd have to invest in a laser cutter Maybe later!
@reelclones haha, no worries! Would be super cool to be able to make them yourself. You unfortunately need a CO2 laser to be able to cut clear acrylic.
Do you sand em before or after you cure em???? I'm new to 3d printing and just learning.. I figured out you can select your resin in the slicer program and it printed a predator head in half of the time the other 1 took before I figured that out
After. I clean the print, then remove support, then cure, then sand. Uncured resin is softer and tends to not sand as well as when it’s cured.
This looks fantastic.
I'm a beginner at airbrushing (for personal projects only), but good at learning quickly. Can you offer any point-by-point sage wisdom for painting at a high level?
My biggest tip would be to experiment. Play around with your PSI, how far your holding your airbrush gun away from you model with different types of paints, the opacity of your paints, etc. You’ll get a feel for what works best/is needed for different looks and types of projects. Experience is the best way to get better.
For metallics more specifically, try not to handle the piece in between painting the various layers as fingerprints can ruin the finish very easily with some primers.
@@MMsPropShop Thank you so very much! I will certainly apply this advice to my own projects!
Graphite powder is by far the best method.
Duralumen is easier. I’ve done props with both and the shine you get is similar plus it’s more durable
Graphite powder does look great but it’s highly unstable for anything beyond a display piece. Definitely a more limiting option.
Thats why you clear coat it.@@MMsPropShop
@@MMsPropShopgraphite powder really isn’t unstable if applied properly it’s actually very durable, Aqua gloss on the other hand is really only suitable for display pieces it isn’t very durable at all
What kind of air spray gun do you use?
For this project I was using this Timbertech airbrush: amzn.to/3HBpqiI
One of my favourites. I have multiples set up with the different needle sizes because I use them so much.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks!
Off of FDM would been more impressive.
I was excited thinking I was going to see electroplating. I was less excited by the metal paints. It doesn't look bad. It's leaps and bounds above rub and buff and the fact that you were picky about the primer definitely made a difference as did using an airbrush. But real metal and even electro-plated prints just look different than painted.
Yes