I hope you enjoyed the video! Here's an opportunity to support my channel via affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links (even something else), I will receive a small commission. Thank you very much for your support! 🛒Bright Copper Electrolyte: amzn.to/3YUX7Cy 🛒 Copper Conductive Varnish: amzn.to/3IhsfVU 🛒 Galvano Degreaser: amzn.to/3XGa4Pv 🛒 Palladium Electrolyte: amzn.to/3YKEfpY 🛒 Gold Electrolyte: amzn.to/3ZQiNAe 🛒 Coffee Filters: amzn.to/3JuKERc
Simply MARVELOUS. I Love how easy you make it look. The MOST important is to have good ventilation. Some day I’d like to try electroplating myself. I save your videos for future knowledge. Thank You 🙏
Really amazing result! Have you tried wet sanding the prints? It eliminates the dust and clears the particles so that the sandpaper actually works better…especially on plastics.
There's something inherently unsettling about seeing that particular lightsaber so pristine. It comes from the era of aged/weathered/lived-in. That's not to say yours isn't absolutely beautiful, it's just odd seeing it like that. That being said, you make the process seem so accessible. I'm subbing and gonna try this on one of my upcoming projects. Keep it up!
Thank you for your videos i an using a elegoo jupiter myself to print Thor Love of Thunder Hammer myself and i an going to electro plate it hopefully my print will come out like your finishes fingers crossed thank you again
Another amazing video - can't wait for that new guide, but I've loved that you always include a tutorial aspect in each video you do! Quick question - when electroplating copper, can you leave it as copper on it's own, or will it start to oxidize? If so how do you stop it if you wanted a print to just have a copper finish? Also, while the print is electroplating can you get an electric shock if you were to touch the anodes or the water?
thanks! copper will start oxidizing the moment it's in contact with air. There are clear coats that do this job (i.e. Zapon clear coat) but any regular clear coat does the job, as well. You won't get a shock it you touch it (voltage too low), but you shouldn't to it either (contaminate, acid(!) etc.). :-)
That is a beautiful result, one of the problems I have seen with electroplated objects is they lose their magic when you handle them and realise there is no weight to them. I like the idea of printing the parts hollow, have you considered filling the parts with lead shot and epoxy to give a little heft to the finished product?
Honestly, the blackening is quite hard to obtain. If you dare, get browning/blackening solution, blackening oil and start experimenting. What I learned is that you should only dip the copper parts short into the blackening solution and then into water. Repeat this over and over. Then oil for 30 min. Then let it dry. Long.
Wish we could get this Tifoo brand paints in the US. Spent nearly 3 hours looking around the internet and can't find anything similar, especially not at the same cost.
thats very nice amazing job , i think will be amazing the tutorial when is done is a process i would like to try.... ,iam doing also tons of resin prints ,if you want my opinion about the sanding part ,dont use normal paper but sponge sanding pads because they dont collect so much dust on the actuall fibers so you can use them twice the time and are much much easier to sand ,since i discover those i never going back to normal paper ones !
Yes i agree i use the sanding pads myself on my prints and i use also a heat gun to slight warm my prints before sanding for smooth results and also to remove the supports for less dimples from the tips of the supports
@@hen3drik Your welcome i also mainly use elegoo resin 3d printers myself and a elegoo Neptune 3 plus and max for FDM and Metal prints try a resin called resione tough resin for the best prints more so for hollowed prints
Hey man, I love your videos! Do you have any recommendations for people in the USA for the copper conductive paint? I really want to get the same brand that you use but they don't ship here. Any other brand recommendations? Thank you
Thanks. It was this: Tomodachi Filterbeutel... www.amazon.de/dp/B0089MYF20?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share … but you can use any other since the filtering is done by the coffee filter.
I love your videos and am Planning on starting to plate my 3d prints. 1 quick question. After you are done plating and everything is dry. Is it safe to handle the nickel-plated objects? It seems that I remember reading about nickel Poisoning, but that might just be for people who work in the nickel smelting industry where they are melting the nickel down.
Nickel is a contact allergen. The Elektrolyte is very poisonous and carcinogenic. The plated nickel itself is still allergenic. I don’t touch these often. If you plan to handle it a lot consider palladium on top.
@@hen3drik Thank you. I've tried to look around but seems like everyone wants to use graphite powder and acrylic paint or wood glue mixes. Frankly all of them look horrible to me. Lumpy finish. Nothing like the smooth finish I've seen in all your videos. I've thought about trying caswell copper paint. It's a water based paint. In the electroplating solution I worry that water gets through the paint and causes adhesion issues as the water evaporates.
Simply… wow! That looks just like the real thing. You would never know that was a 3D print. Do you know of any good companies that offer electroplating, or do you offer a service?
Thank you. I don’t offer this service and I don’t know if anybody does. There maybe are several professions electroforming companies but I don’t think these services are affordable.
That's very impressive. Say that I wanted to recreate this, but with thin walls for the tube, in order to install electronics in it and make it work... would that be possible to produce such thin walls off a 3d printer and still not shatter when hit?
Regarding the current : how do we decide how much to put and for how long exactly ? I assume there is a formula somewhere depending on how big the surface to plate is ? Also how do you decide on the increments when raising voltage ? do you just get the hang of it from practice, or are there existing rules to follow ?
Hi, I follow exact rules. It‘s 1A/dm^2 surface area constant current mode. You‘ll deposit around 0.4-0.5um/min Cu on your part. I cut half the amps the first 30mins, after that 100% for 3.5hrs. 😃
@@hen3drik Okay bonus question : I mixed the tifoo copper paint with acetone (well the nitro one you recommanded in another video) and I get a rather grainy texture from airbrushing this. Is my mix incorrect ? I went 50/50...
Hi, love it! I’m trying to buy a power supply for plating helmets like that and even a bit bigger, I found one 0-15vdc 0-40A regulated power supply is this ok ?
The anodes are dissolving after some time. This depends on how big your plated parts are. I usually use my copper sheets around 8x until they get very thin, but it’s hard to calculate. The electrolyte regenerates by the copper anodes. It needs filtering and brightner from time to time. You can check pH, too. Besides that it’s pretty easy. That’s still my first electrolyte(!).
This video is full of dry stuff, especially the blackening of the copper plating. Sensation can be applied to the color separation of relief. For example, the first layer of copper plating, and then targeted on the relief surface of gold plating, and then black treatment, should get very good results🤔🤔🤔
No, it's a thick metal coating. It cannot be distinguished from solid metal externally. I.e. Gold can also be used as a decorative coating, but it would wear off after countless touches and exposure to sweat. However, that is not the case here.
@@hen3drik too bad I can't find in Amazon Brazil the conducive paint you used. What if I apply a mix of graphite powder and a water-based primer coating for plastic materials? Do you think this would work instead of the copper coating?
Thank you for the quick response! I love your videos, and I am very excited/interested in getting into this hobby. Your videos have both inspired and taught me much!
Maybe he does, maybe he doesn't. Honestly, it must be said that in my opinion, these results are not achieved right away. It's more the result of a lot of practice; whether it's worth it is up to each individual to decide.😉
@@hen3drik I hope he is, I felt bad when he got unsatisfactory results. Honestly, even though this is a very labor intensive process, when the proper effort is given, all problems are figured out, and the stars align, it's worth it for such a good appearance.
I hope you enjoyed the video! Here's an opportunity to support my channel via affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links (even something else), I will receive a small commission. Thank you very much for your support! 🛒Bright Copper Electrolyte: amzn.to/3YUX7Cy 🛒 Copper Conductive Varnish: amzn.to/3IhsfVU
🛒 Galvano Degreaser: amzn.to/3XGa4Pv
🛒 Palladium Electrolyte: amzn.to/3YKEfpY
🛒 Gold Electrolyte: amzn.to/3ZQiNAe
🛒 Coffee Filters: amzn.to/3JuKERc
Your videos are showcasing the highest quality results I've seen so far. Truly inspiring, great work
Game changer! This is epic and the end result is indistinguishable from actual metal. Seriously great work, sir!
Thank you!
this came out spectacular! 👏😎
Thank you, glad you like it.
Amazing result and a satisfying process to watch!
Wow! The results are absolutely incredible! I love this! Great work!
Thank you, Alex!!
Simply MARVELOUS. I Love how easy you make it look. The MOST important is to have good ventilation. Some day I’d like to try electroplating myself. I save your videos for future knowledge. Thank You 🙏
Thanks, it‘ll be a interesting ride :-) ask if you get into trouble.
The work you put into making a video are stunning! The results look amazing!
Thanks!
Wow du hast diese Technik wirklich zu Perfektion gebracht! Respekt!
Vielen Dank!
Really fantastic work, you totally elevated my original sculpt! Well done!
Thank you for the countless models for all of us. And that it brings you joy already justifies the entire plating of the saber. 🙃
Really amazing result! Have you tried wet sanding the prints? It eliminates the dust and clears the particles so that the sandpaper actually works better…especially on plastics.
Oh yes, I always do that from 1200 and higher. Sorry I didn’t mentioned.
There's something inherently unsettling about seeing that particular lightsaber so pristine. It comes from the era of aged/weathered/lived-in. That's not to say yours isn't absolutely beautiful, it's just odd seeing it like that.
That being said, you make the process seem so accessible. I'm subbing and gonna try this on one of my upcoming projects. Keep it up!
Yes! Yes! This is perfect! Great work!
Thank you for your videos i an using a elegoo jupiter myself to print Thor Love of Thunder Hammer myself and i an going to electro plate it hopefully my print will come out like your finishes fingers crossed thank you again
You rock dude!!
Thank you for the shopping list!!!!!
Been waiting 🎉
Have you tried carbon paint from Amazon????
Nice work.
I can see your videos improving. Keep on doing! 👍👍
Unbelievable. Congratulations
Thanks
Dude u are so talented!!!
This is awesome! Is there any other way to do this?
finally a new video! looks great
Another amazing video - can't wait for that new guide, but I've loved that you always include a tutorial aspect in each video you do! Quick question - when electroplating copper, can you leave it as copper on it's own, or will it start to oxidize? If so how do you stop it if you wanted a print to just have a copper finish? Also, while the print is electroplating can you get an electric shock if you were to touch the anodes or the water?
thanks! copper will start oxidizing the moment it's in contact with air. There are clear coats that do this job (i.e. Zapon clear coat) but any regular clear coat does the job, as well. You won't get a shock it you touch it (voltage too low), but you shouldn't to it either (contaminate, acid(!) etc.). :-)
@@hen3drik Ah gotcha! Okay cool, that is great to know :) thanks buddy!
That is a beautiful result, one of the problems I have seen with electroplated objects is they lose their magic when you handle them and realise there is no weight to them. I like the idea of printing the parts hollow, have you considered filling the parts with lead shot and epoxy to give a little heft to the finished product?
Yes, you can do that. Weight can be very convincing, too! I didn’t as I wanted to show the electroplating progress only.
@@hen3drik BTW, I have some ideas for DIY conductive paints that could make a good video. Feel free to ask and I'll share the ideas. :)
Great Video! Can you explain the blackning more in Detail and what i need to buy?
Honestly, the blackening is quite hard to obtain. If you dare, get browning/blackening solution, blackening oil and start experimenting. What I learned is that you should only dip the copper parts short into the blackening solution and then into water. Repeat this over and over. Then oil for 30 min. Then let it dry. Long.
Wish we could get this Tifoo brand paints in the US. Spent nearly 3 hours looking around the internet and can't find anything similar, especially not at the same cost.
thats very nice amazing job , i think will be amazing the tutorial when is done is a process i would like to try.... ,iam doing also tons of resin prints ,if you want my opinion about the sanding part ,dont use normal paper but sponge sanding pads because they dont collect so much dust on the actuall fibers so you can use them twice the time and are much much easier to sand ,since i discover those i never going back to normal paper ones !
Yes i agree i use the sanding pads myself on my prints and i use also a heat gun to slight warm my prints before sanding for smooth results and also to remove the supports for less dimples from the tips of the supports
Good tips. Thanks!
@@hen3drik Your welcome i also mainly use elegoo resin 3d printers myself and a elegoo Neptune 3 plus and max for FDM and Metal prints try a resin called resione tough resin for the best prints more so for hollowed prints
Hey man, I love your videos! Do you have any recommendations for people in the USA for the copper conductive paint? I really want to get the same brand that you use but they don't ship here. Any other brand recommendations? Thank you
Fantastic job !
Thank you so much 😃
Really stunning! I definitely need to test this out too! Unfortunately I dont have a resin printer.... ;)
You can use fdm prints as well. (Sanding +smoothing the print is key)
@@hen3drik maybe I give it a try in the future! hehe
Your videos are so good that I don't even mind the accent ;D
master level...
Really really cool. Do you have an idea how one could get a matte finish on the parts?
You can brush the copper or threat it with a sand blaster. Then apply more coats of metal I’m necessary.
JUST EPIC!
oh man, you already did something similar, I didn't see this video
Amazing job,whould you kindly say what is blackening solution?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide
You can get that stuff under different names.
Amazing work.
Can you tell me what polipropilene filters/bags do you use for the copper electrolites?
Thank you :)
Thanks. It was this: Tomodachi Filterbeutel... www.amazon.de/dp/B0089MYF20?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share … but you can use any other since the filtering is done by the coffee filter.
Does anyone know how many times the solution can be used? For example how many full lightsabers can be plated?
I love your videos and am Planning on starting to plate my 3d prints. 1 quick question. After you are done plating and everything is dry. Is it safe to handle the nickel-plated objects? It seems that I remember reading about nickel Poisoning, but that might just be for people who work in the nickel smelting industry where they are melting the nickel down.
Nickel is a contact allergen. The Elektrolyte is very poisonous and carcinogenic. The plated nickel itself is still allergenic. I don’t touch these often. If you plan to handle it a lot consider palladium on top.
How are your platings coming out so smooth? Mine always have these bumpy pits everywhere. Frustrating but still trying
I've been wanting to try out this electroplating 3d prints. Cant get tifoo copper paint in the USA. Any suggestions on other brands?
I‘ll do some research.
@@hen3drik Thank you. I've tried to look around but seems like everyone wants to use graphite powder and acrylic paint or wood glue mixes. Frankly all of them look horrible to me. Lumpy finish. Nothing like the smooth finish I've seen in all your videos. I've thought about trying caswell copper paint. It's a water based paint. In the electroplating solution I worry that water gets through the paint and causes adhesion issues as the water evaporates.
@@Alexdiaz727 unfortunately I cannot say anything about the caswell, but maybe there‘ll soon(!) be a video on how to improve graphite platings?
How long does this electroplating lasts on resin btw?
it lasts forever.
Simply… wow! That looks just like the real thing. You would never know that was a 3D print.
Do you know of any good companies that offer electroplating, or do you offer a service?
Thank you. I don’t offer this service and I don’t know if anybody does. There maybe are several professions electroforming companies but I don’t think these services are affordable.
It look fantastic, about how many hours to make this? What size and gauge are the copper plated?
This took me about a week. I individually plated all parts separately, but this can be done simultaneously. Thickness is about 200um.
That's very impressive. Say that I wanted to recreate this, but with thin walls for the tube, in order to install electronics in it and make it work... would that be possible to produce such thin walls off a 3d printer and still not shatter when hit?
Hard to say. I would say minimum wall width would be 0.5mm-0.75. Then electroplate it, this adds strength. But it would be a fragile work.
Regarding the current : how do we decide how much to put and for how long exactly ? I assume there is a formula somewhere depending on how big the surface to plate is ? Also how do you decide on the increments when raising voltage ?
do you just get the hang of it from practice, or are there existing rules to follow ?
Hi, I follow exact rules. It‘s 1A/dm^2 surface area constant current mode. You‘ll deposit around 0.4-0.5um/min Cu on your part. I cut half the amps the first 30mins, after that 100% for 3.5hrs. 😃
@@hen3drik Okay bonus question : I mixed the tifoo copper paint with acetone (well the nitro one you recommanded in another video) and I get a rather grainy texture from airbrushing this. Is my mix incorrect ? I went 50/50...
@@startide Go 1:2. don’t let the paint build up. Wait until dry. Polish very carefully.
@@hen3drik 2 acetone for 1 copper, right ?
@@hen3drik ok I am dumb it's in the video... since I watched them all I wasn't sure which one you told us about it :P
super
Hi, love it! I’m trying to buy a power supply for plating helmets like that and even a bit bigger, I found one 0-15vdc 0-40A regulated power supply is this ok ?
This should be optimal! Do you have a link?
make ROBOCOP Did3D animatronic like this
How often can you reuse the electrolytes before you have to dispose of them? Same with the anodes.
The anodes are dissolving after some time. This depends on how big your plated parts are. I usually use my copper sheets around 8x until they get very thin, but it’s hard to calculate. The electrolyte regenerates by the copper anodes. It needs filtering and brightner from time to time. You can check pH, too. Besides that it’s pretty easy. That’s still my first electrolyte(!).
Hey what kind of non woven fabric were you using as a Galvanic brush? Im looking for a replacement for mine, it would be nice if you had a link for it
www.ebay.de/itm/183421490461?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=mQ4DjfWHTta&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=LICsnBaySvC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Danke!@@hen3drik
Can I ask how many hours goes into post processing at this sufficiency?
around 2 weeks
What do you use to rotate the pieces in the solution?
It‘s a rotary jig. 3d printed with a 360 servo attached doing tiny steps.
How do you degrease electrically?
Use Galvanic degreaser / stainless steel anode / - pole to object / 6V
This video is full of dry stuff, especially the blackening of the copper plating. Sensation can be applied to the color separation of relief. For example, the first layer of copper plating, and then targeted on the relief surface of gold plating, and then black treatment, should get very good results🤔🤔🤔
Is it resistant to the touch? Will it wear off if you touch it a lot?
No, it's a thick metal coating. It cannot be distinguished from solid metal externally. I.e. Gold can also be used as a decorative coating, but it would wear off after countless touches and exposure to sweat. However, that is not the case here.
@@hen3drik thanks for the reply!
@@hen3drik too bad I can't find in Amazon Brazil the conducive paint you used. What if I apply a mix of graphite powder and a water-based primer coating for plastic materials? Do you think this would work instead of the copper coating?
What metal would you recommend for electroplating to get a matte stainless steel brushed look?
I would electroform a thick copperlayer. Then brush it for the desired look and plate nickel or chrome on it.
@@hen3drik Nickel or Chrome won't give it a stainless steel look though... it'll just look like either of those...
Do you have to degrease after polishing?
Yes, if you plan to electroplate further with different materials.
Thank you for the quick response! I love your videos, and I am very excited/interested in getting into this hobby. Your videos have both inspired and taught me much!
Is there way to use graphite powder as conductive coat, the copper stuff is very expensive? Ive tried and its ohms are high ☹
Graphite paint is more difficult Form on layers tend to come loose more easily. Try polishing your graphite surface, it‘ll become more conductive.
Soo much work, but it look awesome!!!
Thanks, yeah, but it totally looks like the real deal!
Does the lightsabre work? No? Could you please make a working device?
Tom is taking note.
Maybe he does, maybe he doesn't. Honestly, it must be said that in my opinion, these results are not achieved right away. It's more the result of a lot of practice; whether it's worth it is up to each individual to decide.😉
@@hen3drik I hope he is, I felt bad when he got unsatisfactory results.
Honestly, even though this is a very labor intensive process, when the proper effort is given, all problems are figured out, and the stars align, it's worth it for such a good appearance.
My like!!!