Just changed the new Amazon 680084 carburetor on the blower. Less than 45 minutes and I primed it like you did. First pull it burped; second pull started right up like it did when it was first new. Thank you for the guidance with this video. Mid-Atlantic bracing for a bit more so time was made to get this accomplished. Cheers...
Thank you very much for this. I've got an older (2006) MTD Yardman and this video coerced me to believe that a carb replacement was quite doable despite my lack of engine knowledge. Local power equipment place wanted $91 for the part and close to $150 to for them to do this fairly simple fix. $16 carb bought on Amazon and I'm done right before an impending significant storm tomorrow. Fired up on first pull and I'm thrilled.
I ran into this video randomly to work on my fuel-leaking Snapper. Then I was like, wait a minute that's Blake from my hometown! Small world, cool channel! Turns out the short hose from the tank to the petcock had a hole in it and the fuel was running down the main hose and dripping from the carb. Runs a lot better with the new carb, so it was still worth it.
Great video! Walk me through everything I needed to do to put a new carburetor on and get my snowblower purring like a kitten just in time for winter. Thanks a bunch
Your video was very informative and helpful. I appreciated the step- by- step instructions of what and what not to do and what to look for. I watched it twice to make sure I didn't miss anything and when I went to replace the carburetor, I had no troubles at all. You did a great job, keep up the good work! (You made it as easy as taking another piece of pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving, lol!)
I never have a problem starting my engines after sitting most of the year and I don't use fuel stabilizer. I do use 92 octane non-ethanol gas though and I also install fuel shutoff switches on everything and during somethings final use for its season, I'll run the engine and shut off the fuel switch and run it till it quits, then I'll drain the float bowl if there's anything left inside of it. Next season I just turn the fuel switch back on and I'm back in business. I'd prefer to keep my OEM carburetor on my 8hp Tecumseh I bought used, so I bought a rebuild kit and a new carb just in case I screw up rebuilding the carburetor. The kit is OEM while the new carb is one of those hit or miss Chineseum things off Amazon that may or may not work. Carb is HMSK80. Believe it or not, I used to work for Tecumseh, lol. Peerless Gear & Machine Div. Salem, IN. Carb machining and assembly and I remember the machine that put together those plastic fuel inlets...most boring job in the world. Operator filled two round bins and then watched the machine run automatically, its bins vibrating the parts down two lines meeting in the middle with robot arms picking up each piece while another arm pushed them together and a 4th arm picked up the assembled piece and dropped it onto a chute that had a bucket at the bottom of it, lol. Sounds easy, and it was...the hard part was staying awake while the machine ran in case it had a stall from a bad part or if it needed its bins refilled. When it ran smoothly it was almost hypnotic to watch for more than 5 minutes. I much preferred about any other job, even if I had to run my arse off because it kept ya alert and made the time pass faster.
Thank you for the video. The new carb had a metal input barb and I angled it like you did but there appears to be a slight leak from between the barb and the carb body. I replaced the fuel line in case I damaged it during the carb replacement. So the fuel line should not be the issue. Any ideas about how to on stop the leak? Can the barb unscrew and be reinstall with some type of sealant? If so any recommendations on what to use. Thanks again for the video! It was very helpful.
I've had some barbs break while moving unfortunately. It's possible yours cracked if i had to guess. Two ideas would be to either replace it again (unfortunately) or to eliminate the 90° on the barb and make it a straight barb only with a hacksaw or something similar, and extend the fuel line to attach to the straight portion if there's enough room to do so. It seems like the metals they're making the barbs out of are getting cheaper so they unfortunately break more easily. Thanks for watching!
@@BlakesGarage1 Thankyou for the responding. I intend to replace the carb again without angling the inlet. Once that is done I will see if I can fix the leaking carb. While my first attempt wasn't perfect, I found your video very helpful. Please keep up the good work.
I have the same model and spec TroyBilt snowblower 5.5 HP Tecumseh that you are working on. I bought this brand new twenty-one years and for last several years it has run only on "Half-Choke", this will be my fix. Yesterday it started leaking fuel after running and clearing snow. I figured the drain petcock was seeping like it has before, but it was much worse. After looking up inside the frame I noticed the primer line wasn't attached. Could that be the source of my leak? Well, done!
My carb mounts 90 degrees to this one.( it faces to the rear) I don't have the linkage rod. Would you happen to have a pic of how it's mounted and how the springs are mounted? Thanks
Be careful trying to turn that fuel inlet, I just broke mine off, Chinese. Actually I am sitting in my garage working on the same exact machine. Also take a picture of the top of the carb so you can remember where everything goes.😊
So I watched this video .I'm just trying to fix ah yard machine with the same motor on your video but I noticed mine I can just pull the rope all the way and it's not turning the motor ! Whet could be the problem right there? Thank you
Try taking the spark plug out and stand back, slowly pull the cord because excess fuel might spray out of the plug hole. This is a common problem when dealing with a gummed up carburetor. Once you've cleared things out, put the spark plug back and you're all set.
What's up man. I appreciate the video. It was very helpful. After the fact, I happened to find the carburetor bowl with the drain spring. What's involved in changing a carburetor bowl? It seems easy, but when I tried to change the bowl years ago, I messed something up. Thanks for any help that you or anyone reading can provide.
Its always a little trickier when the carburetor is installed on the machine because you'll be installing the needle, float, and bowl upside down. 1. Slide the needle into the float tang or slot, whichever yours has. 2. Lift the needle into its seat while lining up the float hinge mounting holes. 3. Slide the pivot pin through the float mounting holes and corresponding holes on the carburetor. 4. Install the carburetor bowl gasket and make sure it stays seated while lifting the bowl into place. Hold everything while installing the bowl mounting bolt. Hope that helps!
Could you please tell me whether the throtle lever has one more spring in addition to the spring that goes from the lever to the governer (if i correctly call this plate with many holes in it)? I installed new car, checked that the linkage from the carb and the spring from the throttle lever are installed properly in the right holes of the carb and governor . But the engine when starts has very high RPM in all the positions of the lever, and the lever goes down by itself from the RUN position to the STOP. I understand that i have to adjusr RPM and idle by way of two screws. But i cannot understand this movement of the lever down by itself. Thank you for answering.)) I have a Tecumseh non-adjustable carburetor, the same as in you video.
What likely happened is the piece with all the holes in it, attached to the throttle control, is 180 degrees off meaning it's upside down. That piece should point upwards and I would guess yours is pointing downwards. The bracket for the throttle adjustment is held on with two 1/4 inch screws and either needs to be removed in order to rotate the arm upward or the carburetor removed in order to do the same thing. What commonly happens is the arm swings down while the carburetor is removed causing it to be reinstalled I'm the wrong direction. Hopefully that makes sense.
Thank you very much for your answer. The piece with all the holes is not upside down. It points upwards The spring goes to the third hole, while the linkage from the carb goes to to the left hole on the top of the piece. Everything is installed in the manner you showed in your video @@BlakesGarage1
The throttle dropping on its own is something new to me and that's my main concern. Two things to test: when you move the throttle lever up and down, does it also move either the governor arm on the left side or the throttle on the carburetor itself? Second thing to try. Can you easily move the throttle on rhe carburetor by hand or is something pinched or binding?
@@BlakesGarage1 I easily move the throttle by hand on the carburetor when move butterfly, no problem. When I move the throttle lever up and down, it also moves either the governor arm on the left side or the throttle on the carburetor itself. It is MTD 5 HP Yard Machine 31A-6ACE700
Great video. My blower is 30 yrs old and the engine started oscillating last winter. I can see the governor moving back and forth. Rather than tear apart the carb I decided to buy a new carb. Are these carbs set from factory or will I need to make any screw adjustments.
Some are not adjustable. If there are no adjustment screws, it will be preset, but if it has two adjustment screws it will need some fine adjustment. Usually 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point.
@@BlakesGarage1 thx. I will try that. I got to use my blower today for the first time after installing the new carb. Its starts nicely on first pull but it does pulse up and down. I hate to mess around with carb screws. Any idea which screw I should adjust. Its the same carb as in this video
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 High side adjustment will be the screw directly at the bottom of the fuel bowl pointing up vertically. It sounds lean to me so try 1/4 turn out for starters.
@@derrickaj1029 ok next test. Is the carburetor adjustable with a knurled screw straight up in the center of the bowl and a black flat headed screw into the side near the muffler.
@@BlakesGarage1 I do not have the knurled screw in the bowl. I do have the flat head idle adjustment screw (it was closed) I ran out of time today, I'll be back tomorrow. Thank you 💯
have a 5.5hp Tecumseh model LH195SP-67517D, have found on amazon the HS 50 LH195SP so you're saying that should fit? partstree has just the carb for $110 , amazon has the whole kit, carb, plug,hose, new filter, knobs, clamps etc for $15, WTH is the difference OMG
The main things I make sure to compare are whether it has a primer hose barb or not and whether it has adjustment screws. Finding a carb with both low and high adjustment screws is nice to have.
Just changed the new Amazon 680084 carburetor on the blower. Less than 45 minutes and I primed it like you did. First pull it burped; second pull started right up like it did when it was first new. Thank you for the guidance with this video. Mid-Atlantic bracing for a bit more so time was made to get this accomplished. Cheers...
Thank you very much for this. I've got an older (2006) MTD Yardman and this video coerced me to believe that a carb replacement was quite doable despite my lack of engine knowledge. Local power equipment place wanted $91 for the part and close to $150 to for them to do this fairly simple fix. $16 carb bought on Amazon and I'm done right before an impending significant storm tomorrow. Fired up on first pull and I'm thrilled.
Great job! Thanks for watching
I ran into this video randomly to work on my fuel-leaking Snapper. Then I was like, wait a minute that's Blake from my hometown! Small world, cool channel! Turns out the short hose from the tank to the petcock had a hole in it and the fuel was running down the main hose and dripping from the carb. Runs a lot better with the new carb, so it was still worth it.
Hi Alex! I get this occasionally and it's always hilarious. Make sure to watch all the ads
@@BlakesGarage1 Subscribed!
@@wiley2006 Thank you sir. A few vw videos in there!
Great video! Walk me through everything I needed to do to put a new carburetor on and get my snowblower purring like a kitten just in time for winter. Thanks a bunch
Awesome!! I think I have an MTD snowblower with the same type carburetor. Your video will definitely help me out. Thanks for sharing!
Nice Video. Taking this job on tomorrow. Thank you.
Your video was very informative and helpful. I appreciated the step- by- step instructions of what and what not to do and what to look for. I watched it twice to make sure I didn't miss anything and when I went to replace the carburetor, I had no troubles at all. You did a great job, keep up the good work! (You made it as easy as taking another piece of pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving, lol!)
Thank you and thanks for watching! Positive comments are always great after the negatives.
@@BlakesGarage1 This comment was written by my husband, but showed my name, lol.
@@karenshulfer1358 I'm sure you're equally positive.
Great video. Good detail. Just what I needed to get my garbage day rescue snowblower started and running like a champ again.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.
Thank you sir. This video helped me immensely.
I never have a problem starting my engines after sitting most of the year and I don't use fuel stabilizer. I do use 92 octane non-ethanol gas though and I also install fuel shutoff switches on everything and during somethings final use for its season, I'll run the engine and shut off the fuel switch and run it till it quits, then I'll drain the float bowl if there's anything left inside of it. Next season I just turn the fuel switch back on and I'm back in business.
I'd prefer to keep my OEM carburetor on my 8hp Tecumseh I bought used, so I bought a rebuild kit and a new carb just in case I screw up rebuilding the carburetor. The kit is OEM while the new carb is one of those hit or miss Chineseum things off Amazon that may or may not work. Carb is HMSK80.
Believe it or not, I used to work for Tecumseh, lol. Peerless Gear & Machine Div. Salem, IN. Carb machining and assembly and I remember the machine that put together those plastic fuel inlets...most boring job in the world. Operator filled two round bins and then watched the machine run automatically, its bins vibrating the parts down two lines meeting in the middle with robot arms picking up each piece while another arm pushed them together and a 4th arm picked up the assembled piece and dropped it onto a chute that had a bucket at the bottom of it, lol. Sounds easy, and it was...the hard part was staying awake while the machine ran in case it had a stall from a bad part or if it needed its bins refilled. When it ran smoothly it was almost hypnotic to watch for more than 5 minutes. I much preferred about any other job, even if I had to run my arse off because it kept ya alert and made the time pass faster.
Thank you very much for this video !!! It really helped . Thank you
Thanks,.working on one now wondering how the choke knob came off, hate breaking stuff
Very informative! Changing carb now!
Thank you for the video. The new carb had a metal input barb and I angled it like you did but there appears to be a slight leak from between the barb and the carb body. I replaced the fuel line in case I damaged it during the carb replacement. So the fuel line should not be the issue. Any ideas about how to on stop the leak? Can the barb unscrew and be reinstall with some type of sealant? If so any recommendations on what to use. Thanks again for the video! It was very helpful.
I've had some barbs break while moving unfortunately. It's possible yours cracked if i had to guess. Two ideas would be to either replace it again (unfortunately) or to eliminate the 90° on the barb and make it a straight barb only with a hacksaw or something similar, and extend the fuel line to attach to the straight portion if there's enough room to do so. It seems like the metals they're making the barbs out of are getting cheaper so they unfortunately break more easily. Thanks for watching!
@@BlakesGarage1 Thankyou for the responding. I intend to replace the carb again without angling the inlet. Once that is done I will see if I can fix the leaking carb. While my first attempt wasn't perfect, I found your video very helpful. Please keep up the good work.
I have the same model and spec TroyBilt snowblower 5.5 HP Tecumseh that you are working on. I bought this brand new twenty-one years and for last several years it has run only on "Half-Choke", this will be my fix. Yesterday it started leaking fuel after running and clearing snow. I figured the drain petcock was seeping like it has before, but it was much worse. After looking up inside the frame I noticed the primer line wasn't attached. Could that be the source of my leak? Well, done!
@jeffreypinder9398 the primer only pushes air so shouldn't be the cause of your leak. It sounds like it might be carburetor time
@BlakesGarage1 Thank you for the lightening fast response, Blake. Ordering one kit now from Amazon.
My carb mounts 90 degrees to this one.( it faces to the rear) I don't have the linkage rod. Would you happen to have a pic of how it's mounted and how the springs are mounted? Thanks
Good video
great video! Thank you 😀
What model carburetor, (Amazon I presume) did you get for that? I have the same snowblower and same engine.
Watch the video.
Be careful trying to turn that fuel inlet, I just broke mine off, Chinese. Actually I am sitting in my garage working on the same exact machine. Also take a picture of the top of the carb so you can remember where everything goes.😊
So I watched this video .I'm just trying to fix ah yard machine with the same motor on your video but I noticed mine I can just pull the rope all the way and it's not turning the motor ! Whet could be the problem right there? Thank you
Try taking the spark plug out and stand back, slowly pull the cord because excess fuel might spray out of the plug hole. This is a common problem when dealing with a gummed up carburetor. Once you've cleared things out, put the spark plug back and you're all set.
I have the same carb, same problem. What carb should I buy on amazon?
I would recommend something with adjustable idle screws. You'll see a screw with a spring holding the fuel bowl on. Cheapest possible price is fine
What's up man. I appreciate the video. It was very helpful. After the fact, I happened to find the carburetor bowl with the drain spring. What's involved in changing a carburetor bowl? It seems easy, but when I tried to change the bowl years ago, I messed something up. Thanks for any help that you or anyone reading can provide.
Its always a little trickier when the carburetor is installed on the machine because you'll be installing the needle, float, and bowl upside down.
1. Slide the needle into the float tang or slot, whichever yours has.
2. Lift the needle into its seat while lining up the float hinge mounting holes.
3. Slide the pivot pin through the float mounting holes and corresponding holes on the carburetor.
4. Install the carburetor bowl gasket and make sure it stays seated while lifting the bowl into place. Hold everything while installing the bowl mounting bolt.
Hope that helps!
Thanks very much, I appreciate it.
Thanks for that video ;)
Great video....thanks!! DD
Could you please tell me whether the throtle lever has one more spring in addition to the spring that goes from the lever to the governer (if i correctly call this plate with many holes in it)? I installed new car, checked that the linkage from the carb and the spring from the throttle lever are installed properly in the right holes of the carb and governor . But the engine when starts has very high RPM in all the positions of the lever, and the lever goes down by itself from the RUN position to the STOP. I understand that i have to adjusr RPM and idle by way of two screws. But i cannot understand this movement of the lever down by itself. Thank you for answering.)) I have a Tecumseh non-adjustable carburetor, the same as in you video.
What likely happened is the piece with all the holes in it, attached to the throttle control, is 180 degrees off meaning it's upside down. That piece should point upwards and I would guess yours is pointing downwards. The bracket for the throttle adjustment is held on with two 1/4 inch screws and either needs to be removed in order to rotate the arm upward or the carburetor removed in order to do the same thing.
What commonly happens is the arm swings down while the carburetor is removed causing it to be reinstalled I'm the wrong direction. Hopefully that makes sense.
Thank you very much for your answer. The piece with all the holes is not upside down. It points upwards The spring goes to the third hole, while the linkage from the carb goes to to the left hole on the top of the piece. Everything is installed in the manner you showed in your video @@BlakesGarage1
@@preacher0160 Oh shoot, let me think a second and I'll get right back to you
The throttle dropping on its own is something new to me and that's my main concern. Two things to test: when you move the throttle lever up and down, does it also move either the governor arm on the left side or the throttle on the carburetor itself? Second thing to try. Can you easily move the throttle on rhe carburetor by hand or is something pinched or binding?
@@BlakesGarage1 I easily move the throttle by hand on the carburetor when move butterfly, no problem. When I move the throttle lever up and down, it also moves either the governor arm on the left side or the throttle on the carburetor itself. It is MTD 5 HP Yard Machine 31A-6ACE700
Great video. My blower is 30 yrs old and the engine started oscillating last winter. I can see the governor moving back and forth. Rather than tear apart the carb I decided to buy a new carb. Are these carbs set from factory or will I need to make any screw adjustments.
Some are not adjustable. If there are no adjustment screws, it will be preset, but if it has two adjustment screws it will need some fine adjustment. Usually 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point.
@@BlakesGarage1 thx. I will try that. I got to use my blower today for the first time after installing the new carb. Its starts nicely on first pull but it does pulse up and down. I hate to mess around with carb screws. Any idea which screw I should adjust. Its the same carb as in this video
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 High side adjustment will be the screw directly at the bottom of the fuel bowl pointing up vertically. It sounds lean to me so try 1/4 turn out for starters.
@@BlakesGarage1 thx. I’ll try that today and let you know. Appreciate your help.
@@BlakesGarage1 thx brother. Worked like a charm. Runs smooth now. Bring on the snow.
Why do you have the hulking vise grips in the way. That particular model has a fuel shut off.
No shut off
I replaced the carb with a new one. It starts with Ether, then shuts off??
Is it getting fuel to the carb??
Thanks for replying. I would have to say yes, cause the float bowl was full.
@@derrickaj1029 ok next test. Is the carburetor adjustable with a knurled screw straight up in the center of the bowl and a black flat headed screw into the side near the muffler.
@@BlakesGarage1 I do not have the knurled screw in the bowl. I do have the flat head idle adjustment screw (it was closed) I ran out of time today, I'll be back tomorrow. Thank you 💯
It’s easier if you take the manifold off instead of try to reach in with wrenches to the carburetor, can you take the carburetor off after?
Thanks bud! Parts Tree (will check it out)
So I am back to trying to fix the old one
Looks pretty similar to my old Snowbird ya did.
Very similar!! Thanks for the view and support
Blake's Garage she works great with the new governor spring on it. No more of that notorious Tecumseh surging.
@@AverageJoeHotRodShow I wanna see a smelly gas sequel
Blake's Garage got one in the works. Different scent.
have a 5.5hp Tecumseh model LH195SP-67517D, have found on amazon the HS 50 LH195SP so you're saying that should fit? partstree has just the carb for $110 , amazon has the whole kit, carb, plug,hose, new filter, knobs, clamps etc for $15, WTH is the difference OMG
The main things I make sure to compare are whether it has a primer hose barb or not and whether it has adjustment screws. Finding a carb with both low and high adjustment screws is nice to have.
The new carb and kit came in today so will let you know, is crazy the price difference@@BlakesGarage1
Mine is 8 hp looks like yours.
I’d at least take the bowl off to make sure there is no dirt or metal shavings in it even though it’s new. It may not be clean.
@davidmorrison7424 Excellent idea. Also a good idea to confirm float height at that point too.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.