How to Easily Replace the Fuel Line & Primer Line on any Tecumseh HSSK or HMSK Snowblower Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Step by Step!
Today we'll be working on a Craftsman snow blower with a Tecumseh HSSK50 engine.
If you follow the steps in this video, you won't have to remove the metal flywheel cover to replace the fuel line, you'll be able to do it quick and easily, just like a pro!
The method shown in this video will apply to virtually all Tecumseh HSSK and HMSK snow blower engines!
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Go to 8:00 for how I pull the new fuel line through if you want to skip all the basic how-to stuff at the beginning!
Outstanding video and step by step description... I was looking for something like this forever and finally came across your video. This will save me a ton of time. Thank you so much!!!
Absolutely genius! Here in the south we still have tons of tecumseh hm100’s running around that you can use this exact procedure! Nice video Jake-o!
Thanks for watching Medic, the threaded rod works wonders.
I have a snow blower with a Tecumseh hmsk80 engine on it that I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire blower. I got the blower for free because the piston was seized and the owners were throwing it away. This video and some of your older videos have been very helpful in my journey to rebuild this blower. Keep up the good work. 😊👍🏿
Thanks for watching Patrick, glad the videos help!
Funny you shot this cause Mr.Dactyl just gave us a snack about the same issue. Only he used a screwdriver long and thick enuff to stick it thru and in. Pull it through and it's done. I was thinking the same way you did it tho. Great video bud.
I don't believe a screwdriver would fit through these because the fuel line is offset on the other side, but it would be interesting to see. The threaded rod gives a good bite on the fuel line and if the outer side of the line gets caught up, it won't slip out.
I got this exact job to do tomorrow. Awesome tip!!! Like you knew I was going to do this! lol
Glad I could help!
So much attention to detail. Well done.
To the point and no jacking around
Thank You for information and advice
Merry Christmas
Thanks for watching Phillip!
Good tip Jake.. we see these on chippers so this is a good tip for us UK lads .. ta mate
Thanks for watching Mick!
Excellent detailed instructional video young man! I always enjoy your no nonsense straightforward approach! Good job my man♥
Thanks for watching!
Great easy fix, thanks
Very good video and you make it look so easy but i guess after doing this operation thousands of times over 9 years you have gotten really good at it. Nice addition at the end showing primer line change buddy. Go job it has been a great beginning to the end of this year eh?
Yes a 20+ minute video, yet once you get the hang of this method, the work can be done within 10-15 minutes if you're lucky. And yes, great way to finish off the year. Looking forward to our repower video of the craftsman, Eliminator will finally have our own "newer" snowblower.
Great video repair, thanks
Good video Jake showing how to properly install new fuel line and the primer line.
Works like a charm, thanks for watching!
That was one of the best Videos ive ever seen on snowblowers!
Very helpful. Keep doing what your doing its perfect.
Your explanation and detail really helps. Like showing us the sizes of fuel line rather than just saying quickly.
Well done
Good vid Jake. Too many guys pull the fuel line 1/2 way through and snap! Snags on the sheet metal tabs and game over!
Thanks for watching Ken!
Exactly Ken!
Just did another one today and a little silicon spray on the fuel line OD and that little twist/pull and push works everytime when the connection seam hits that fuel line guard in front of the flywheel
@@waynestefinashen239hey Bud! Funny I did one yesterday but on a Kohler M8T Magnum engine on Troy Bilt tiller. Very very similar to the way Tecumseh runs their line. I used a 1/4" double splined fitting to connect the old hose to the new , a little silicone and walla!
@@donmayberryjrsOPE Good job Don and funny i just did a fuel and primer line change yesterday on a 11/30 Craftsman snowblower for one of our flipper customers.
Your videos and explanations are top notch, Thank You!
GREAT video! This gives me a lil more hope that i can bring my old snowblower back to life.
Glad you enjoyed the video just remember if it is a Techumseh engine the fuel line OD is smaller than 1/2 inch
Great video, especially for home owners , diy-ers , & alike. I've been tinkering & refurbishing for 4.5yrs & following you for 3yrs. I've been lucky this far w the 1/4*1/2 fuel line , yes it's a little tougher , but have installed 100+ft with success , a little petroleum jelly helps tremendous...joke in their somewhere 😅
Yea sometimes we use a bit of lube too if they're tough to get through. Thanks for watching!
Got the joke and it may be worth the struggle since the Techumseh fuel line is twice the price per foot as the B&S fuel lint.
Hey I was just wondering how to do this changing out of the fuel inlet. This video was perfect timing for me and now I can do it with confidence thanks to you. I even bought the tools and sealant you recommended,I've been doing more and more small engine repairs and maintenance for myself and friends. Im a retired machinist and have always enjoyed working on small engines. Thanks again like I said perfect timing for my project.
Thanks for watching, and good luck Ken!
Ken it is nice to get these type of comments telling us that our efforts to provide a quality tutorial are being used successfully by our viewers. Thank you very much it is greatly appreciated.
Great tip Brother!! Puts my "duct tape method" to shame lol! Glad I haven't had to do many of these but I do know how ill be doing my next one!! Great videos!
Thanks Jamie, and yes the tape method definitely can give you issues, especially if it slips and then you pull the old line through without the new line! Time consuming to take everything apart when not needed.
Great video and Great detailed explanation and simple , Thank You
Another excellant time saver video, very well explained thanks for a great video .
Thanks for watching Martin!
Great video Jake. I recently replaced my fuel line and primer line on my 5hp Tecumseh. I had to remove the flywheel cover because I had to replace the coil too. Even using the Tecumseh fuel line I could see that there is no room for a thicker fuel line. The Tygon primer line is great. I heated mine up a bit to get it on the fittings. I had a heat gun. Hot water would probably work too. The primer line fits tight.
Thanks for watching Anthony. And glad to hear the coil worked good! And yes, tight fit in there, definitely no room for the Briggs line
Good job can not beat a Tecumseh in the cold weather.
Just wanted to thank you for all your video.
Glad you enjoy them and thanks for commenting and subscribing
Great tip and nice video Jake, I've used tape on garden tiller lines but never again now. Thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks John!
Anytime brother
Well done sir !
Thanks for watching!
Great info, thanks for showing ! Could you show how to adjust the governor lever on those Tecumseh engines ?
Already have a step by step video, watch it here; th-cam.com/video/lsZF53lkCxw/w-d-xo.html
@@EliminatorPerformance You are the best !
I have replaced a few of these lines because of a fuel leak where it wears through the hose and fuel runs down line and drips off the carb. Usually I pull the cover though. Thanks for the tip. Have a good week. Rick
Yea definitely have to be careful when routing them. I remember years and years ago I replaced one and the flywheel nicked it. Soon as we fired it up we smelt fuel. This method should ensure the new fuel line routes itself in the same way the old one was. Thanks for watching Rick!
Thank-you! Great info! Much appreciated!
Great one. I was prepared to remove the flywheel cover etc. Will also check for the grounding wire. I hear air sucking noise when I depress the primer bulb. Suddenly would no longer startafter winter.
Great video.
Thanks Bruce!
The challenge getting the cover off before seeing this video, was pulling off the choke knob. I ended up soaking over night with penetrant
it was taking so much force to remove, I thought it was going to break. Thanks for the video
Sharing with my buddies in the North now. Don't see many snowblowers here in North Carolina. Transplant here like so many others.
Thanks Eric, I appreciate it!
Thanks for the vid😂 while just replaced the fuel line purchased from princess auto( yes cut by meter). Exact issue as you stated a bigger OD compared to oem. Flywheel cover removed at the end lol
If only I had posted this sooner lol thanks for watching Kelvin!
Outstanding video. Thank you so much
Your welcome
I do a lot of these and I’d like to share this with you. Take a 3 foot length of #4 starter rope and double knot one end and burn one end to a point so it slides easily though both hoses. Then fish through the new OEM hose and then through the old one and pull gently as they remain butted up to one another and voila, the benefit is that it can’t come apart or bind on the brackets as it remains fully flexible and reuse the rope a million times. I usually pull the new one through the left side. Try it, let me know what you think.
Worth a try, thanks for the suggestion Tony!
That is a good idea but where the old hose and new hose come together they could become offset pulling it through and have a hang up point but still worth a try.thanks for sharing
You are always helping everyone with your great videos. Maybe I can pass something along to you that you can share with your viewers that might save a bit of money. I've been using the Briggs and Stratton Bulk Fuel line # 395051R. It's 7/16 OD and 1/4 ID. Works perfect for this Fuel line install short cut on the Tecumseh snowblowers. Amazon 25' for about $40.00. Big price difference. Note: you can use clamp # P/N 710075 with this fuel line. I hope this helps. Again Thanks for all the videos.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely check it out!
I love the Tecumseh engines , I have never had a problem with my own snow blowers which have these engines for the last 20 years . Could you put or post the part number for this fuel line that you used ?
It's in the video Chris, I believe it's 430173
GREAT video! Made my day
Thanks John!
U can also put some good electric tape on it to make sure it doesn’t come loose. Like fishing electric wiresn
Great video. Like the details. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Namilo!
Well done!
Very awesome video Jake! Most important is using the correct replacement line. The trim removal tool is so helpful in our business, I've got a whole set of them and even use them to remove spark plug boots. Most companies have really tightened up on plug boots, or is it just me?
Yes it does seem like they're getting harder to remove.
@@EliminatorPerformance so it's not just me! 😂😂😭😁
They are especially tight with a short lead line on the 2 stroke equipment to the extent some have pulled the wire right out of the coil when they removed the spark plug boot.
@@waynestefinashen239 those damn Stihl saws!!!
@@donmayberryjrsOPE 100% correct but many of them are very similar.
Looks just like my blower.. Wish this video came out about a year ago. Going to have to take a look at mine sometime this week and check some things out. There's more than one size of fuel line?lol Would of saved me a lot of grief back when. Great video Jake.
Now show us how the tighten up those auger/speed handles. Just a bad design.
Thanks for watching Ed!
I believe your referring to how the two handles after years of use do not stay in line and level? This is from the wear on the area that goes around the pin and basically has just worn out of the original diameter to either oval or just bigger diameter. It would require removal then grind up and weld the oversized hole using a copper plate to back up the area during welding. After that you would need to grind and drill a new hole properly aligned and reinstall possibly using a new pin or bolt assembly. This would be a time consuming repair.
thanks for all the great videos...
Glad you like them, thanks for watching!
Great tips on fuel line replacement. Cheers bud
Thanks for watching!
And salute to you buddy
Helpful video
Glad to hear that
Thank You!!
Excellent!!
Glad you like it!
Master class!
Thanks for this comment we appreciate it along with your subscribing
Good day Jake Boy interesting video. Saves alot of time. Thanks Did u learn some from Pop.
Taught him all I know Don, thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Gees that was a good one Laugh about half minute. Thanks
@@donvoll2580 He is absolutely correct taught me everything i know about small engine repair but there may be a few important things he has learned from me.
@@waynestefinashen239 Well that is good. Thanks
Well done jake
Thanks Doug!
Well is it S Cam small engine repair or Banner's Blowers and Mowers?
@@waynestefinashen239 witch would go with
Banners Blowers and Mowers is a good one
@@EliminatorPerformance Banners Blowers and Mowers
Great show brother 👏
Thanks Lewis!
No problem you guys over at EP have been great to me and I thank you for that 😊
It’s a toss up for me. Especially if the electric starter is in place. Nice to get out any mouse nesting too. Have you ever repowered/replaced any of these Tecumseh engines with a HF 6.5 hp? My experience is they will out perform an 8hp.
I have not replaced these engines, although the an upcoming video will feature a repower of sorts. And yes, the starter makes it a bit tighter. The 5hp on the track driven snowblower for example, we had to pull the fuel line from the fuel tank side. Still using a 90° shut off valve, it's a perfect fit.
Thanks!
Thanks for the support!
I just buy the bulk fuel line at the hardware store and feed it thru by taking off the recoil housing instead. Ya it's an extra step but it works just fine and doesn't take much time.
The Techumseh fuel line is 15/32" OD whereas the B&S us 1/2" OD amazing to think that 1/32" makes that much difference for getting the fuel line properly installed eh?
Great advice on how to change the fuel line. Can you give me some advice on changing the tank grommet? Mine leaked and I destroyed the new one trying it get in the valve.
This Techumseh fuel tank only has a plastic stem no grommet. On B&S snowblower engines they have an inline filter screwed into the fuel outlet on the newer models. Basically not sure what you are asking about unless it is the 2 or 3 hole grommet that goes into a 2 stroke fuel tank. There just pull it out sometime difficult to do and install the new one but apply some 2 stroke oil on the grommet and tank opening before pushing it in. Sometimes you may need a blunt end screwdriver to help .
Anyway your Video is very informative!!!
Use a peace of all tread rod , screw lines to each other and pull but turn as you pull and push
Right on phillip just make sure it is 5/16" threaded rod. Actually we just cut of a scrap 5/16" bolt and only used the threaded part.
Personally, behind the kill switch: I spray a little anti-rust oil....a reflex from my father
Do you always pull at the carb end?
No not always, sometimes it gets hung up, like the 5hp on the track driven one. When we did the fuel line on that one, it needed to be pulled from the fuel tank side.
Ken there are also thin metal heat shields around the engine with a hole that the fuel line goes through on the fuel tank side. If you have a problem going through from the carb side you can try from the tank side. Sometimes when it does catch internally it helps to give it a little twisting action to the fuel line.
Excellent video, thank you.
@EliminatorPerformance
Do these snowblowers have a fuel filter somewhere?
I meant over-primed it.
Someone gave me a tecumseh snowblower but it has a pushed in creased primer button and smell like gas is leaking when priming. Maybe I overpriced it but it does run or at least end started for me.
The great thing is that they have a long life being the engine runs a snow blower
Thanks for watching Robert!
@@EliminatorPerformance your welcome young man 👍😎
Techumseh engines were designed to run in the cold weather
My supplier shows something with that tecumseh number but also a briggs number on same hose.
Try the stens number?
430173 is the oem Techumseh number we order it from Stens in 25 foot rolls the B&S oem numbers for 25 foot rolls are 395051R but this one is 7/16" OD whereas the 792020 is 1/2" OD. We find a lot of thinner line being used on the Techumsehs which always get cut through by the opening it goes through in the heat shield by the fuel tank side.
@Wayne Stefinashen so is what you are using 7/16 or 1/2 and what was the oem tecumseh? My supplier says 1/2 od and claims it replaces tecumseh.
@@kenhilson786 STENS lists the 056-150 (430173 OEM Tecumseh line) as being OD 15/32" which is 0.46875"
Our Techumseh fuel line we use is from Stens and measures 15/32" OD and the B&S fuel line we order from Stens is 1/2" OD now this one used to be OEM but is now aftermarket but is of an excellent quality. If we order the two other part numbers i spoke of earlier from our B&S supplier Powersource Canada they can supply us with either the 7/16" or the 1/2" OD OEM fuel line. It is extremely difficult to pull the 1/2" OD line in behind the metal guard to protect the line from the flywheel on Techumseh snowblower engines.
My Toro snow blower with Tecumesh HMSK80 engine wouldn't start. When I pressed the primer, I could see fuel leak.
does the same method work on an ariens blower
Yes it should, any model/brand of snowblower with a Tecumseh engine
Thank you helped me a lot will continue to watch your videos 🙂
Thanks for watching hope you have subscribed we will be having a huge giveaway prize when we hit or near the 100K mark, for subscribers only
I have a tecumseh HS50 engine on my airens ST504 snow blower. The problem I have is installing new primer bulb and line on the blower housing. My oem blower housing has a fused or cast in threaded fitting( inside) the blower housing. My original bulb is threaded and has to be screwed out of the threaded fitting to replace it, I can screw in the new replacement bulb fused in the cast threaded fitting ( which is located inside the blower but, the old primer line is now hanging loose inside the blower housing.) I have to take the entire blower housing off the engine. Major problem the primer line is to small ( impossible to fit through the cast threaded fitting inside the blower housing. ?
Thanks for the information James i need to pull up the IPL on an HS50 to check this because we have not had this issue on any 5hp Techumseh engines we have worked on.
James just looked at the IPL for an HS50 and as i thought someone may have changed that primer bulb because it shows TPC-570682A as the primer bulb replacement which has the normal two tab plastic prongs that lock into the two holes with primer line going through the center hole. This may be a newer model so i would need the complete information from your engine with the serial number to check yours if it comes up.
Probably the problem I had last time was the rod being too long.
It's very possible, the 1" threaded rod works great. Gives plenty of bite, but still allows for flexibility.
Just did another one today and a little twist while pushing and pulling works everytime when the connection seam hits the internal guard.
Contact me please re Power Steering on WHITE 10.5 HP 30" snowblower.
WE have talked before. Thanks, Gord. I just did a new fuel line on the above unit. Some 0.040" SS wire threaded thru the old line and hooked to the new one (pierced both sides and noose) an sprayed the old line with WD40 as I pulled it through. Shroud under tank rubbed thru the old one. Rounded it out of the way. Had to remove FW shroud to check primer line and lubricated Bendix while I was in there. A bit more complicated with electric start and canopy.