Soo to me, the color of this chopped subframe looks a lot like the color of the R8. I just assumed that it wasn't possible to register/insure it and that this new project is the result of the kept parts. Am I right or does the R8 still exist? Edit: So he actually adresses it later in the video that these parts are not the R8
@@金安迪-g5q from what I recall from older videos is that the R8 was from Canada and got stolen and shipped to Dubai. He bought it in Dubai without knowing it was stolen and had no problems and had the vehicle on his name. Now that he wanted to import the R8 into Sweden they found out from the inspection that it was stolen. So I assume the government has the car for now while the investigation is going on.
I searched you for YEARS! Because of that supra video with the remix umbrella song 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 and i just happened to find you on TH-cam by coincidence lol
How the hell can cry about basic Volvo 224 ? It is allways best to start as good car as possible when doing custom or restoration work. Thank you Peter !
While i agree that the people complaining are being a little overdramatic maybe, im not entirely agreeing with this take. These cars are getting harder and harder to find, and going up in price. A shitty but inspected daily that's been owned by 20 different kids, wrenched to hell with rust all over is still gonna be 15k SEK. Hell i got offered 15k for my project when i pushed it into the garage for the first time, and my car sat in the north swedish woods for 20 years. I dont know what Peter paid for his but i can tell you if he got it for less than 40k it was a good deal, and starting with a worse example would probably be better since he cut away every panel where rust comes on these cars anyway. Now it's still his car, and his money, which he can do with whatever he wishes under the limitatons of the law, and it's better the car turns into something at all rather than scrap metal or a dumbass 18yos personal punching bag. But to be fair to people who have a hard time with it, i understand it's not easy to watch something you would kill to own be cut up. I am although VERY happy it isn't being ruined by a hillbilly, and instead turned into something actually cool and useful, and i wish Peter the very best.
Other than us finns and swedes knows what the hell are Wolf parts. It took even me some time to understand what are you talking about. Of course it's entirely possible that I'm not the sharpest pencil in the drawer.
You can measure the ratio on the diff without disassembling it. Mark the input and output flanges at 12 clock position. Count the inputshaft turns before output has done one rotation. If you have lets say a 3.70:1 you can turn the input shaft 3.7 times before the output shaft does on.
I think he wants to know what gear ratio the porsche version of that diff has. Hoping its a different ratio so he can use smaller diameter front tires then rear tires. I assume he knows the ratio of his diff that is seen ion the video.
Greetings from the United States. The algorithm brought your channel to me the other day, really enjoy watching what you’re doing so far, the quality workmanship is great to see. 👍
It can be quite difficult to get the notch in the correct position using the holesaw, minor material removal can be achieved by gluing some 40 grit sandpaper on a piece of pipe in the lathe chuck . Then spin the sandpaper against the end of the pipe for minor adjustments in length.
It might have been a pretty nice Volvo but you can't complain about cutting it up when it's gonna become one of the most badass volvos in the world when it's done 😎
Those welds will more than "do their job", they look great! And bending by hand is a real skill. You guys should be proud! Well done! look forward to seeing how this project evolves!
Im a mig welder and i do some tig too. Im working in a scooter with an upgraded engine and it needs some work. I have a small welder at home but i get to weld some stuff at work for free. Nice welds though. Looking good
To determine gear ratio, if you block one wheel side of the diff, then turn the other one 2 full turns, you get someone to count how many turns the propshaft flange did, that number of turns is the diff ratio (X turns :1)
Also: tehdä sutta ja sekundaa = make wolf and second class and just generally something being susi (wolf) means it is bad and doesn't do its job@@juhopeltola9110
"mint 240" lol. Peter, I think you have the basis here for a car name and/or paint color (mint green!) I give you kudos for giving the "mint 240" another more exciting second life!
Great video. Good luck with the R8 Hope it gets out on the street. What happens to the 245 then. You know you're so good. Waiting for the next clip. Have the best from Sweden.
För att få fram utväxlingen, markera noll lägen på in ut utgående med en marker eller tejp, vrid utgående för hand ett 10 tal varv medans du räknar varven på ingående
Hade vart najs om du försökte hålla ett orginalliknande utseende på bilen. Kanske grupp A stuk? Men att bygga en "plast raket" hade inte riktigt passat dig med tanke på tidigare byggen. Du känns mer "orginal'ish".
Bra jobbat 👍 du kan böja ett par rör till vanliga vinklar och skriva på rören hur mycket spring back och dom har och göra markeringar och se hur mycket rör det går åt för den böjen, bra att ha i närheten så behöver man inte gissa.
Nice to see the progress! Despite a little bit of rust, that's still a rather decent base to start from, and I agree cleaner base are better. Google suggest 991 Turbo S' front diff ratio is 3.33:1, but I'll wait & see actual owner/mechanic to answer the proper numbers.
Riktigt fränt bygge, ska bli kul att följa detta! 😛👌 Rätt komiskt, tidigare idag så fick jag ett vänförslag till dej från facebook, o sen när jag gick ut på tuben nu i natt så va detta avsnitt rekommenderat för mej! Haha 🤣🤣👌
Riktigt coolt bygge och det verkar ju vara din bil och då gör du väll va du vill med just DIN bil, är det någon som blir ledsen så kan de ju köpa en egen bil och bevara🙂
I may be missing something with that front differential in particular, but can't you just mark a point on the stub shaft and the pinion/driveshaft then count how many turns the stub shaft does per 1x revolution of the pinion to find what ratio it is?
How do you get the bends in the tubes exactly where they need to be? Like, in exactly the right position? How do you make sure the center point of the radius is exactly in the right place? Seems super difficult...
I’m building something almost identical! Starting with the shell of a 79 camaro and I’ll be buying an R8 rear chassis soon. How do you plan on connecting the aluminum chassis to the steel chassis?
I know you're going to hate this comment, but I'm not sure about those forward tubes. I'd think you should have made them in a single piece, going along the roof line and then all the way down to the floor of the chassis, and then added the roof line crossmember, and the dash level crossmember between them afterwards. I'm not sure the way you have it configured is nearly as safe. In particular the dash level crossmember being sandwiched between the A pillar tube and the (I don't know what else to call it) "front firewall" tube. The vertical one near where the original firewall would have been in the Volvo.And then the way the upper door bar attaches... I realize that my ass isn't an engineer and so my seat of the pants feelings aren't engineering, but that joint just makes me wince.
Yes that is the normal way to do it in most cages in most genres. But in dragracing this is allowed and it is how most build their 6.0 cages. The rules are made to make it safe enough. I do not feel to make the cage extra safe, it is just myself that is going to race in it ;)
Jag har sett folk använda ett frässtål istället för hålsåg, kan tänka mig att det blir lättare att smyga sig fram till rätt längd då, kanske kan vara värt att kolla på?
I am not fan of big rear tyres, then it will no longer matter if it was real volvo or just a fiberglass shell, since it wont look like Volvo anyway, just an dragster. Instead put couple of tires both sides on rear axle, like trucks have. :P ps. Does anything really prevent from doing slight hump / bulge in the middle of the firewall? That way there can be more room for seats but then between seats it can come forward to allow more room around engine.
Arm chair commenters that think you shouldn't cut up a car should spend the money and buy the car themselves. You buy it, you get to do with it what you want. Don't like it? Buy a car yourself and do better instead of spending the time whining in other peoples comments.
Det är en styrväxel från en nyare typ v60/v90 va o isåfall funkar dem utan can cabbarna till sig? (Hade denna diskution på mitt jobb då jag la undan sån styrväxel för jag vill ha i min 740)
There is no limit at all. When you do a change this big it will be called "amature built car" in the regulations. In other words it will be modell year 2024-2025 on this car I guess.
@@drjsson We are speaking street legal cars aren't we? What legislation is that based on? That doesn't sound at all logical especially considering basically all street legal cars from the street week are old; cara from before emissions regulations. Emissions regulation and crash worthiness are afaik biggest problems with making newer modded cars. If you build an EV swap you get rid of half the problem but not the issues regarding the structure. Afaik that is the basic reason for all the cars being so old because there are only basic requirements like seatbelts or headlights on cars from the 70s for example.
In Finland you can build a small batch car to be street legal, but the requirements are not that different to full car manufacturer requirements, so unless you are building an EV, with an ICE you are basically facing licensing / buying already approved emissions equipment from some other established manufacturer. Afaik crash testing is one of the things which is not so strict on small batch cars but there are still requirements.
@@rkan2 I bet that peter is bether on answer the more precise what requirements are on a build like these. But I think the requirements are the same as for the stock engine. But you will be the one that name the car in the papers also. This will be a totally street legal car in the end. I am not 100% sure what hp/weight ratio you can have with this change. When you do a "changed vehicle" it is maximum 20kw/100kg car. But I don't think that will apply on a "amateur built"
Those welds that will "do their job" look bloody amazing!
Bud i was laughing so hard at that part
he's just too humble...
I hope the R8 is street legal again soon. Now that the superleggera is gone I miss those v10 street video's.
Soo to me, the color of this chopped subframe looks a lot like the color of the R8. I just assumed that it wasn't possible to register/insure it and that this new project is the result of the kept parts.
Am I right or does the R8 still exist?
Edit:
So he actually adresses it later in the video that these parts are not the R8
@@金安迪-g5q from what I recall from older videos is that the R8 was from Canada and got stolen and shipped to Dubai. He bought it in Dubai without knowing it was stolen and had no problems and had the vehicle on his name.
Now that he wanted to import the R8 into Sweden they found out from the inspection that it was stolen.
So I assume the government has the car for now while the investigation is going on.
@@raybla importing cars from the middle east is a hassle because so many are possibly stolen.
Bending all those bars by hand is an art, well done!
I searched you for YEARS! Because of that supra video with the remix umbrella song 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 and i just happened to find you on TH-cam by coincidence lol
welcome!
congrats and welcome, this is a true Swedish legend!
Enjoy catching up on lots of great content that has been produced since the 1400hp Supra era!
How the hell can cry about basic Volvo 224 ? It is allways best to start as good car as possible when doing custom or restoration work. Thank you Peter !
yeah!
Right? It's not like it's even rare.
While i agree that the people complaining are being a little overdramatic maybe, im not entirely agreeing with this take.
These cars are getting harder and harder to find, and going up in price.
A shitty but inspected daily that's been owned by 20 different kids, wrenched to hell with rust all over is still gonna be 15k SEK.
Hell i got offered 15k for my project when i pushed it into the garage for the first time, and my car sat in the north swedish woods for 20 years.
I dont know what Peter paid for his but i can tell you if he got it for less than 40k it was a good deal, and starting with a worse example would probably be better since he cut away every panel where rust comes on these cars anyway.
Now it's still his car, and his money, which he can do with whatever he wishes under the limitatons of the law, and it's better the car turns into something at all rather than scrap metal or a dumbass 18yos personal punching bag.
But to be fair to people who have a hard time with it, i understand it's not easy to watch something you would kill to own be cut up.
I am although VERY happy it isn't being ruined by a hillbilly, and instead turned into something actually cool and useful, and i wish Peter the very best.
Funny how you also have ”wolf” parts like us Finns :)
Good work again Peter! 💪🏼
Other than us finns and swedes knows what the hell are Wolf parts. It took even me some time to understand what are you talking about. Of course it's entirely possible that I'm not the sharpest pencil in the drawer.
You can measure the ratio on the diff without disassembling it.
Mark the input and output flanges at 12 clock position. Count the inputshaft turns before output has done one rotation.
If you have lets say a 3.70:1 you can turn the input shaft 3.7 times before the output shaft does on.
I think he wants to know what gear ratio the porsche version of that diff has. Hoping its a different ratio so he can use smaller diameter front tires then rear tires. I assume he knows the ratio of his diff that is seen ion the video.
Greetings from the United States. The algorithm brought your channel to me the other day, really enjoy watching what you’re doing so far, the quality workmanship is great to see. 👍
Mają goście rozmach! A ja pozdrawiam z Polski.
It can be quite difficult to get the notch in the correct position using the holesaw, minor material removal can be achieved by gluing some 40 grit sandpaper on a piece of pipe in the lathe chuck . Then spin the sandpaper against the end of the pipe for minor adjustments in length.
Enjoying your video here in New Zealand.
It might have been a pretty nice Volvo but you can't complain about cutting it up when it's gonna become one of the most badass volvos in the world when it's done 😎
Those welds will more than "do their job", they look great! And bending by hand is a real skill. You guys should be proud! Well done! look forward to seeing how this project evolves!
the dream project continues!! Love these updates so much
I'm enjoying this project 🎉 nice work. I'm following every episode
Great work Peter
Wow, amazing pipe bending - welding work! Great progress, and thanks for sharing!
Im a mig welder and i do some tig too. Im working in a scooter with an upgraded engine and it needs some work. I have a small welder at home but i get to weld some stuff at work for free. Nice welds though. Looking good
Uwielbiam Wasze szaleństwo. Pozdrawiam z Polski.
To determine gear ratio, if you block one wheel side of the diff, then turn the other one 2 full turns, you get someone to count how many turns the propshaft flange did, that number of turns is the diff ratio (X turns :1)
Love this Projekt. The cage looks amazing.. and old Volvos never die, they just get faster 😊
I am so glad I came across your first video on this build series, it is looking so good.
Keep cutting, my friend! What you are building will be something a thousand times better than a “mint” Volvo.
Literally the coolest TH-cam channel
Crazy build, thanks for sharing all the small details!
Great project. Coming together quickly. It is going to be a beast.
Swedish expression "köra varg" translates into "manufacture wolf" = make faulty parts.
Paused the video and looked for explanation, thanks. Also in Finnish out of specification part is called "wolf".
Wasted piece = hukkapala
Hukka = susi = wolf
Also: tehdä sutta ja sekundaa = make wolf and second class and just generally something being susi (wolf) means it is bad and doesn't do its job@@juhopeltola9110
Glad we got this update video so quick! Thanks
Looks like you win the "who has the most ridiculous Volvo" contest. I'm jealous.
Mis my 240 wagon badly!!! Glad to hear and see your project is coming along amazingly.
Can't wait when this is on the track
Old Volvos never die, they just get faster.
Again very interesting project!👌 Good job. You saved that 240 from restoration.😉
Hey up mate this is super cool its like your supra meets the old Lamborghini and jumps too another level, lovin it and nice to see you having fun
Fantastic. Love this project so much. To see progress on this is Wonderful
I do hope the R8 will be Street Legal soon.
It's coming along peter! keep up with the good work!
Negative comments is just jealous people! Keep doin what you’re doin Peter! 👏🏽
I'd say 'purists' rather than jealous people but yeah, what were they expecting, a restoration back to factory spec?! 😂😂
Crazy work and workshop. You could manufacture some truck accessories there, like rear air tank cover. I’ll order one right away!
"mint 240" lol. Peter, I think you have the basis here for a car name and/or paint color (mint green!) I give you kudos for giving the "mint 240" another more exciting second life!
Haha nice twist
nice it looks like the Audi Quattro Ur-Quattro, you could call it the Ur-Fyrtio said in Swedish.
Great video. Good luck with the R8 Hope it gets out on the street. What happens to the 245 then. You know you're so good. Waiting for the next clip. Have the best from Sweden.
Bloody excellent, keep going
A great project Peter. Keep it up.
För att få fram utväxlingen, markera noll lägen på in ut utgående med en marker eller tejp, vrid utgående för hand ett 10 tal varv medans du räknar varven på ingående
Japp det kan man absolut göra! Jag hoppas någon med Porsche diff kan göra det :) Jag själv vet vad jag har :)
@@PeterBjorck3.33
Hade vart najs om du försökte hålla ett orginalliknande utseende på bilen. Kanske grupp A stuk? Men att bygga en "plast raket" hade inte riktigt passat dig med tanke på tidigare byggen. Du känns mer "orginal'ish".
This is one of those projects where people question why but you simply tell them because you can
Bra jobbat 👍 du kan böja ett par rör till vanliga vinklar och skriva på rören hur mycket spring back och dom har och göra markeringar och se hur mycket rör det går åt för den böjen, bra att ha i närheten så behöver man inte gissa.
Great video Peter. Great welds. looking good.
Awesome project and super interesting! Keep up the great work!
Very inspiring build brother!
Bra jobbat, tack för uppdateringen!
coming along great! cant wait to see it rip!
Den kommer bli brutal :)
Remember to paint the Block red, for relability and extra hp😅
Grymt Peter, du är så sjukt mångsidig!
I’m sure anything you do to that Volvo will improve it!
hell yeah man, this looks wild!!
Faan vad grym du är. Bra jobbat 👍
Gött jobbat, kämpa på i garaget!🤩👏👑
Nice to see the progress!
Despite a little bit of rust, that's still a rather decent base to start from, and I agree cleaner base are better.
Google suggest 991 Turbo S' front diff ratio is 3.33:1, but I'll wait & see actual owner/mechanic to answer the proper numbers.
Great video as always Peter!! Crossing my fingers that you get the R8 on the road too!
Looking great 👍
Great job - looking amazing.
Riktigt fränt bygge, ska bli kul att följa detta! 😛👌
Rätt komiskt, tidigare idag så fick jag ett vänförslag till dej från facebook, o sen när jag gick ut på tuben nu i natt så va detta avsnitt rekommenderat för mej! Haha 🤣🤣👌
Maximus power 💪🚘⚙️🔩🔧good video Bro 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👈
Wow, quite. project! My 1970 Volvo 142S is looking on with interest :)
Riktigt coolt bygge och det verkar ju vara din bil och då gör du väll va du vill med just DIN bil, är det någon som blir ledsen så kan de ju köpa en egen bil och bevara🙂
people are quick to judge as usual, lets see the end result, keep it up Peter :)
Very interesting, very informative. As always. 😄
I may be missing something with that front differential in particular, but can't you just mark a point on the stub shaft and the pinion/driveshaft then count how many turns the stub shaft does per 1x revolution of the pinion to find what ratio it is?
He knows the ratio on his own diff. He is just curious if its possible to find another ratio so he can run lower front tyres
@@DreRasing Yeah that makes more sense haha I was gonna say! Silly me, misinterpreted 🤦♂️
When is the next video? The wait is unbearable. 🙂
Du kan ju räkna ut utväxlingen själv genom att räkna hur många varv det tar att snurra ingående axel för att få utgående att snurra ett varv
How do you get the bends in the tubes exactly where they need to be? Like, in exactly the right position? How do you make sure the center point of the radius is exactly in the right place? Seems super difficult...
Nice work there :)
I’m building something almost identical! Starting with the shell of a 79 camaro and I’ll be buying an R8 rear chassis soon. How do you plan on connecting the aluminum chassis to the steel chassis?
Företaget i Sverige kanske har fler utväxlingar?
Ooooooh. I really like the dual ratchet mechanism on that bender. Mine only has a single. I wonder if I could add one... Hrm...
I know you're going to hate this comment, but I'm not sure about those forward tubes. I'd think you should have made them in a single piece, going along the roof line and then all the way down to the floor of the chassis, and then added the roof line crossmember, and the dash level crossmember between them afterwards. I'm not sure the way you have it configured is nearly as safe. In particular the dash level crossmember being sandwiched between the A pillar tube and the (I don't know what else to call it) "front firewall" tube. The vertical one near where the original firewall would have been in the Volvo.And then the way the upper door bar attaches... I realize that my ass isn't an engineer and so my seat of the pants feelings aren't engineering, but that joint just makes me wince.
Yes that is the normal way to do it in most cages in most genres. But in dragracing this is allowed and it is how most build their 6.0 cages. The rules are made to make it safe enough. I do not feel to make the cage extra safe, it is just myself that is going to race in it ;)
@@PeterBjorck Hunh, OK. I guess I've just never seen one like that. Well, as long as it's legal, it's probably safe enough. :D
awesome midship project!
Jag har sett folk använda ett frässtål istället för hålsåg, kan tänka mig att det blir lättare att smyga sig fram till rätt längd då, kanske kan vara värt att kolla på?
calcul the ratio by turn the ouput 1 time and calcul the number of input turn
Epic build.
I am not fan of big rear tyres, then it will no longer matter if it was real volvo or just a fiberglass shell, since it wont look like Volvo anyway, just an dragster. Instead put couple of tires both sides on rear axle, like trucks have. :P
ps. Does anything really prevent from doing slight hump / bulge in the middle of the firewall? That way there can be more room for seats but then between seats it can come forward to allow more room around engine.
Will you be building a engine subframe to replace the heavy factory one
Deine Schweißnäht sind ok, so schlecht sieht das nicht aus👍🏻Respekt an dein Projekt✌🏻
MINT... yeah a mint aero choc bar.... there are full of bubbles .....
I've chopped up brand new cars with zero miles for customers lol
väntar med spänning på denna bil!!!!
Hi Peter, have you considered titanium for the firewall?
Keep up the great work.
Cheers from Western Australia
du ska inte göra Råttan så extrem som du trodde, självklart turbos dock. skrattade högt
I'd recommend a steel firewall, it's much safer.
Arm chair commenters that think you shouldn't cut up a car should spend the money and buy the car themselves. You buy it, you get to do with it what you want. Don't like it? Buy a car yourself and do better instead of spending the time whining in other peoples comments.
aluminum melts pretty fast in a fire
nice
Can u calculate the gear ratio from the input?
Whats a wolf tube?
14:26 Yeah but you need twice as much of it, so the weight saving is only 30% The cost, though, is gonna be what, 300% more, maybe?
👍👌
👍
If I could weld that well I'd be a happy man.
Porsche 911 996/997 -06 tiptronic S låda har 3.05 och 2,96/3,33 på framdiffen 🙂
Det är en styrväxel från en nyare typ v60/v90 va o isåfall funkar dem utan can cabbarna till sig? (Hade denna diskution på mitt jobb då jag la undan sån styrväxel för jag vill ha i min 740)
Du kan använda 940 styrväxel ihop med en elektrisk servopump från typ volvo V50. Men du behöver ju såklart ett styrsystem till pumpen.
@@drjsson tack ah det vet jag men nu var jag intresserad av just dessa nyaste torra styrväxlarna då dem e ännu skänare en dem med elpump
What model year do the regulations no longer allow this kind of tube chassis modification in Sweden?
There is no limit at all. When you do a change this big it will be called "amature built car" in the regulations. In other words it will be modell year 2024-2025 on this car I guess.
@@drjsson We are speaking street legal cars aren't we?
What legislation is that based on? That doesn't sound at all logical especially considering basically all street legal cars from the street week are old; cara from before emissions regulations. Emissions regulation and crash worthiness are afaik biggest problems with making newer modded cars. If you build an EV swap you get rid of half the problem but not the issues regarding the structure. Afaik that is the basic reason for all the cars being so old because there are only basic requirements like seatbelts or headlights on cars from the 70s for example.
In Finland you can build a small batch car to be street legal, but the requirements are not that different to full car manufacturer requirements, so unless you are building an EV, with an ICE you are basically facing licensing / buying already approved emissions equipment from some other established manufacturer.
Afaik crash testing is one of the things which is not so strict on small batch cars but there are still requirements.
@@rkan2 I bet that peter is bether on answer the more precise what requirements are on a build like these. But I think the requirements are the same as for the stock engine. But you will be the one that name the car in the papers also. This will be a totally street legal car in the end. I am not 100% sure what hp/weight ratio you can have with this change. When you do a "changed vehicle" it is maximum 20kw/100kg car. But I don't think that will apply on a "amateur built"