Mid-Engine Volvo Chassi Certification! Project Ep 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
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It's really starting to come together nicely. Love this new project, I can't begin to imagine the cost to get to this point alone.
Epic, I love how he talks about it like it’s no big deal.
A sway bar or anti sway will help you have more even launches. A sway bar helps the car launch straighter and counteracts the weight shift from the left front tire, which plants the tires evenly and results in a level launch.
No?
Swaybar could mount around the front going back to the arms. Mounting point to arms would need to be made some how. Only tricky thing i could see.
I was thinking the same thing, having a stable platform must be good for keeping the weight evenly distributed between the rear tires.
I think generally sway bars are not suited to drag cars as you want the wheels to be more independently planted to the road.
I don't think he's going to have near as much of a problem with that, given the car is rear engine. And he's probably not going to have as much of a problem in the rear either, since it's IRS and not a live axle.
The progress on this project is just insane!
This is one of my favorite youtube builds. Thanks for the updates.
Peter, the wide body style could be URQuattro style widening of the fenders. The URQ style would be a hint to the V10 engine heritage. A trip through old Bilsport magazines should give you some influence to the body style. I'm sure I've seen a few of them in Norway and Sweden back in the 90s and 00s! Keep up the good work.
Genuint lika imponerande varje gång, Du är otroligt duktig 🇸🇪🏆🇸🇪
Having the inspection are just a proof of your building skills! For a first timer I am impressed!
Man, you're a dreamer. But unlike most dreamers you deliver! Nice build!
Wow, just wow... Having you back home just 200km from where I live has really made your You Tube channel come alive. What you are doing here would not be allowed in Norway. But if you build it we can import it from you I believe. What a cool build, the coolest on YT at the moment for sure. Awesome job Peter... God bless and lots of love from Norway.
An excellent professional build, I would feel very proud getting this completed in time!
Always interesting to see inside the mad mechanic's head for a bit, can't wait for the outcome of this project but the ride to the end is just as cool.
For the front wings, you can slice along various edges of wing, pull them out to size then just weld in plate on the gaps you made. That keeps original shape just nice and boxy for that volvo home built look.
Well done! Great progress since last time.
This this is gonna be a weapon. I hope you keep with the sleeper theme!
Built for speed baby!
Widen the body at the fender mounting points. Making the grill wider. Leave the back of the fender open as a wheel wake control vent. Think f40
Amazing build! Greetings from Finland 🇫🇮
DAAAAMN! That looks crazy nice allready :D
The Dutch suspension manufacturer Intrax can make suspension kits where the front dempers are connected with a gas line to eliminate the Sway bar.
Maybe an interesting option for you as well? They make full custom suspension kits for all kinds of cars.
And great project, keep it up!
Please consider a push-rod suspension solution for the front. It would look great with the dampers in front but also give a natural way to connect the sides to reinforce and stabilize.
It usually looks really good with just moving out the whole fenders on a 240 and extend the hood, mount something extra between blinker and headlight and leave it open towards the doors. Same could be done for the rear fender too, moving the whole fender out if needed.
make sure that the front axles dont smash the bottom of the fuel tank incase that the axle or cv joint breaks, great looking build 👍
On the front fenders, my suggestion is to slice them longitudinally on that horizontal surface right where it meets the vertical part where the bolts to the inner fender go, and weld in some gauge metal of the appropriate thickness to space the width of the fender out. You'll need to do something similar at the bottom as well, obviously, to keep the fender oriented correctly in the vertical plane. When I'm welding long stretches of gauge metal, I like to use this little 50mm x 50mm square of 6.5mm copper plate on the back side of the weld. And obviously, hop around. Weld up the last 25mm at the back, weld a bit at the front, weld a bit in the middle, go back to the front and do the next 25mm, go back to the middle, etc. And since you're going to have *two* long welds to do on each fender there, you can hop back and forth between them as well to separate the heating. Or, do the actual visible surface of the horizontal part of the fender, if you plan to use the original hood. That'll be a lot more visible though, if you muck it up. On the flip side, presumably you can get more fenders to modify, if needed. Going along the seams where the hood goes, either the top or bottom one, lets you avoid needing to do anything complex at the front with the turn signal housing.
There's also almost certainly some inner structure to the fender, some of which you'll need to keep, and some of which you'll need to modify. I would guess (though I've never done a Volvo) at the trailing edge of the fender, near the door. That's probably part of the structure where it bolts to the inner fender, with shims, to align the body panels. Unless Volvos are made precisely enough to not need shims, I dunno.
Anyway, that's how I would do it. In fact, that *is* how I've done similar things in the past.
You are definitely one of my favorite builds on TH-cam right now along with the Lamborghini powered range Rover prerunner.
Keep up the good work bud.
And I struggle putting together a RC car 😁 Love watching your vids!
Love your Projekt. It comes together❤ your beat up 245 turbo daily is nice too 😊
Takk for oppdatering av prosjektet 👍
Sweeeeet! That already looks so good. Thax for the update on this great build.
incredible work as usual
Great work, the ride height sensor should would great. Kyle of The Boosted Boiz have one on his world record holding Toyota MR2.
Loving the build Peter, regarding the anti roll bar , I wouldn’t bother with a straight liner. Controlling axle tramp with big Bhp ie stopping the vertical movement of the driven wheels when laying down the coal. I have 2 Volvos both very stock, and a spaceframe 300bhp Fiat 126. Would love a spaceframe Volvo.
Coming along great Peter won't be long now Regards from Liverpool England
Loving the build and content. Those Ohlins are lush.
Regarding sway bar, as its 4wd, I would imagine you dont want any chassis flex. Anything that will help those fronts stay planted is worth the effort.
How do you think an swaybar works?
Look at the Audi S2 drag cars and how they squat @kungkimmomedia
@@ACupOfDuck Please enlighten me, it seems like you think a sway bare makes the chassis soft?
@@Koorvkungen No prep car and prep cars have way different suspension
@@sativa1320 Prep is uncommon in Sweden
I've been waiting patently for this
Well done on the cage pass Peter,i never doutbted it.
Great progress.
This is the first I've seen of this build, but it's going to be real fun to see the progression the next couple of months!
Nice progress on the build! I would suggest the front sway bar if possible. The blade style kits would be a good option.
As far as the chassis setup, I'd suggest some triangulation on the inner pickup points for the front lower control arms.
Keep up the good work!
Your 240 is all chopped up.
Mabey split it down the center.
Then weld in a 800mm patch.
Casey's customs TH-cam channel.
He's done alot of wide bodies that way.
"Just a Thought"
Too late, the main cage is already done.
I hope you make ducting for the radiator into the front wheel arches to create that positive pressure meaning more aerodynamic & it cools the brakes!
have a sway bar.. predictability improvement. anything that makes for a more rigid chassis for that matter, i'd say, awesome project!
Hello Peter, I hope you’re well and full of the joys of spring!! I also hope you’re having a bit better weather than we are in England :) :) Anyway, cracking video as ever, making some fine progress! You and Mr Hewes always cheer me up when you upload a video because you’re the most solid TH-camrs available. Always entertaining. Anyway, just a spot of well-wishing from a big fan! Cheers fut sharing it with us!
Being from a "TÜV country", i am very jealous... Keep up the awesome work.
I'm not sure what you're planning for the back fenders, but if you look at the DTM cars from the 80s, sometimes the whole guard was moved out several inches. You've got very boxy guards so that could work well. There's an indent left for the door, but it should look good. Porsche 935 race cars are similar.
I think you'll be fine without a sway bar for drag racing. But if you want to autocross or even just drive somewhat aggressively on the street, I'd recommend it. But if you leave out the *front* sway bar, *do not* install the rear one. That's a bad combo.
On the flip side, I've driven any number of moderately high power muscle cars which didn't have one and that was... mostly fine.
Except that one time I was in a car that had no front sway but a rear sway. Well, it would have been good for drift racing, I suppose...
Side note, I'm amazed at how quick you're putting this together. Awesome work, mate.
Congrats on the SFI certificate!🎉🎉❤
Alltså den blir så jävla brutal
As a street worthy vehicle, a sway bar would be needed. Maybe a stiff unit at the rear axle would suffice. Interesting project. Best wishes for your success.
Wheel arch flares from a Group C Holden Commodore could work. Repliglass in Australia makes them for VH and VK Commodore. Could save you some time.
Why not capture the shock bolts on the top with the cross brace so you can remove the bolts and take the cross brace out for ancillary stuff placed under it when the front area is complete. The you can ensure the integrity of the tube strength remains and weld it to c-channel mount going around the alloy shock mount and through bolting with the shock bolt.
If i only know half of what you know i would be happy. Its so inspiering to watch.
Hi! I would suggest adding an extra reinforcement not he lower part of the front strut towers, maybe a cross brace at an angle. To prevent twisting of the chassis. Nice video! Would love to do a structural analysis on the frame :)
There's just something special about new tyres.
Great job with the cage, as well as every other piece you touch!
Thanks for sharing it
Been waiting for this soooooo long, thank you!
This has got to be one of the most awesome projects going right now
You might try to overlay another fender to get the width you need do some cutting the inner portion of the mounted fender do some welding, you got wider fenders!
Freaking killa build mate, keep up the awesome work!
Impressed by your work!! This car will be fun to see in action. And a useful function if you could get the heightsensor to work as you want.
Just a thought that popped up in my head regarding the placement of the fueltank. It is quite close to the front diff, maybe a thick steel plate would be good as protection. Or is the front diff "bulletproof"? 🙂
Not sure if the front diff blows up when it fail but if it does i would recommend putting at thick plate under the fuel cell for protection against puncture
I'm really looking forward towards Street Week 2024. Nice build and nice video!😎
Loving the progress on this project. So unique!
Look forwards to seeing it in Street Week this summer (fingers crossed).
Fantastic. Love the Update and progress on this awesome Build.
Always Quality
Hello Peter. First of all you're doing great work. I think fenders in style of Audi Coupé '88-'97 by Prior-Design could be something you're looking for for.
Absolutely a work of art Peter. 👌🏻
Lovely workmanship on this just beautiful, for the wheel arches I've always liked the look ov Audi sport coupe rally cars from early 80s
F1-tech for anti-wheelie mapping i love this build.
You said you liked wiring well sorry to say but the frame work is brilliant you are doing an amazing job Peter
Thanks, always a great start to my day, when I see a new video from you! cheers
very cool progress&thx for the vid! Go on Peter!
You are working at a steady pace and it's coming along nicely. Great job man👍
Ditt tempo är mindblowing, Peter. Så jäkla grymt!
With building new suspension points, it would be a good idea at this point to consider building in different strut mount positions to optimize traction or different settings.
You can adjust the suspension pretty much with removing one top bolt.
Amazing build! Must make it to speedweek to see it in person! 🙂
So excited for this build!! Hey, use that body line as your starting point in the front to go wider, maybe you could do something like a rear vented box flare without it looking too wild?
Rear sway bar is a must, front no.
Depending on the amount of torque, you do get twist in the frame. It would seem an anti-roll bar in the front would help counteract that.
Really impressive project. A pleasure to follow.
sooo nice... you should install doors from a 142 ..
Something similar to a Mk2 Escort x-pack set up might be an idea for wheel clearance, and easy enough to fabricate. Might even be available somewhere in steel to just modify them.
love this buid. Like you style as well.
Hello Peter,..I think the front and rear fenders will look the best if made in (old) BMW M3 / Audi Quattro style , combined with the openings at the rear in Metro6R4 look....,you can make it look "stock" on your Volvo-body
Cool Project 🇩🇰🇸🇪🏁👌🏻
Well done on the certification, definitely a step forward. I am not an expert on drag-racing cars but I think you want lots of telemetry and data-logging. I think arches like the GP4 Escort MK2 would look good on the Volvo. As far as I can see the car should not have the torque reactions to the chassis that conventional live axle rear wheel drive cars have, so you may not need anti-roll bars. Certainly an interesting project, you are making very fast progress.
For a drag car the swaybar is not needed. It does the most work in heavy cornering, not in a strait line. BUT if you manage to find a placera for it i would recommend one. But for strait lines its not needed.
Great progress, better than me that’s for sure !
You really do need a front anti roll bar. Not a big hard super stiff one, but you do need something
Buy the carbon front fenders and u can force them out 40mm then carbon flare the rest . awesome build 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Kul å se lite från min hemmaplan, jobbar på SSAB och där du parkerade bilen å visade däcken måste va gamla macken i Trollebo, för övrigt en bra pizzeria där nu 😁. Kul å se framgång i bygget.
Without the anti-roll bar you could maybe get oscillations that would otherwise be 'damped' out
With that kond of suspension systems You are installing to Your mid engined Lambolvo it wilm be also good to drive on bents too not only on strait drag racing.
Sjukt balt bygge Peter fan vad bra det här kommer att bli 🤓
Fantastic work Peter. Can we invite you to Santa Pod, to show the car in the UK?
You have forgotten the first part in the 240 the ac Cooling fan 😂😂
Looks awesome. Well done!
Amazing content! Front tires may rub slightly with that setup 😂
Yesss!!! Hoppas verkligen att få se denna i sommar 😁🙏
Pizzerien efter Borlänge vid Lerbäcken. Tänk va Sverige är litet.
Imponerande framsteg du gjort på bilen.👍. Blir coolt som fn det där.
I still think that horisontal mounted dampers with linkage would solve many problems for you. Great progress nethertheless!