been thinking this the entire video traxxas themselves say that its meant to be a scale truck. being a scale trophy truck its designed to handle some jumps and bumps with out breaking but it was never designed to be a basher .
@@hamsterwolf yeah a little bump that shoots you up a couple feet? no problem! the eight shocks soak that up without a hitch. but if you go much higher, the arms are gonna snap from bottoming out
The thing with the UDR is it's how scale it is. The same principals that govern the full size truck are the same as the scale truck. In no time in the rc hobby has a truck been so close to the real thing.
The UDR is definitely a completely different animal on 6s. When I got mine I ran it of 50% and it was, I'm told, same speed as 4s. When I put it on 100% power, it pulls the wheels up, spins the tires to about 30 on pavement and even sounds different. I upgraded a lot of it with aluminum from day 1 and have only pulled the skin off the screws along the rockers. I also have a Revo 3.3 and a Summit. There is many others in the purchase plans, but only have the 3 right now. As you said, I 100% agree, this truck is worth what I paid for it.
This car is not supposed to be jumped. meant for straight line off road racing. like the real life version. You have a lot of followers. please tell them this will straight up just break taking it off jumps like you do. this rc should be for experienced people who run it like it was designed. I use my xmaxx to bash. my udr is for open slight bumpy road racing. it is not meant to crash hard. I do not know where you get your information from. good video. but ill facts and info for your followers who will waste the money in car and parts
@@chrisginoc well i am a traxxas fan though many will say negative things. me and my father have raced for over a decade. I have 7 year old my self. I started him on the traxxas stampede. they all have training modes. not too fast for them. perfect for starting out and parts are cheap and easy to replace. you could also go with the rustler or bandit. any of these 3 are a sure blast for any kid. hope this helps. any more questions feel free to ask.
The whole concept of this truck is scale reelism. It actually feels like you're driving on actual truck. it's not meant for jumping at all or Bashing at all. It's meant to be driven with respect as you would a real high performance truck. But to each his own have fun.... I love mine.
Philip your words are so true, my friend has one and I've had a few goes and it's like no other rc car. th-cam.com/video/e02h2TbppAU/w-d-xo.html......th-cam.com/video/4BCXARkK6Q0/w-d-xo.html
this was a good video bud. you hit some key points that will be useful for a new person either thinking about or about to pull the trigger on a nearly thousand dollar model. the UDR is a beast for what its designed for which is scale driving and smaller jumps. its not made for bashing or for major air time. someone could be turned away from the hobby with a purchase so expensive and then break it and assume any model that is cheaper would obviously break easier because its cheaper. theres a lot of options way cheaper that would be just as enjoyable or more enjoyable because they would be a lot more durable and suited for a beginner. i just hope that company doesnt sue you guys. lol just kidding kinda. id love to see more content from this channel and i appreciate you guys sharing
Chris it really depends on where you will be driving it and what you are wanting it to do. That being said if you are pretty serious about the hobby which I’m sure you are if you ever have tried it lol best hobby in the world. But I bought a LOSI tenacity truggie. They have several different ones in that tenacity setup for around 300-350 then of course you have to have at least one battery and a way to charge it. But what I really love about it is your local hobby shop will have all the spare parts you need and it has a few things you can tweek on and get the feel for doing your own maintenance and things but you don’t have to worry about doing any alignments or anything. And in the future if you wanna get into it you can get the adjustable sway bars and tie rods but it’s perfect out of the box for bashing. The only thing I didn’t like at first was the fact that since I bought 3’s batteries right away I had to change the pinion gear before I ran it because it will over heat and burn the motor up if you don’t run 2’s on the one that’s mounted on the truck out of the box. Now they give you the pinion that you need for 3’s in the box and in my opinion that’s something you need to learn right away anyway because you will have to adjust your mesh from time to time. It’s not hard to do any of the work once you build your confidence up and the truck will grow with you too. Fully upgradable and has great customer service from horizon hobby. Sorry I wrote a book about it but I really hope that helps you. If you’re a guy who has plenty of money then get the traxxas emax and start with that for about 1300 bucks. But if you wanna work your way up to that or more expensive then start with something that’s not gonna break ya in case you find that you don’t wanna stick with it.
@@chrisginoc Just go with the Slash 2WD Brushed model. Its plenty fast and really durable. There are tons of aftermarket parts for it too. I like the slash more than the Rustler because the front wheels are protected by the body so you are less likely to strip servo parts etc hitting your front tire on a wall, rock etc.
This car, although it is awesome, is definitely not a beginner truck. Try out the hobby on a 200-300 dollar truck to get the feel of it then work your way into an awesome truck like this.
Exactly this.. even my Losi Baja Rey Raptor 1/10 may of been to much to start back with r/c after 15 years but glad I did now after a month of bashing in 3S (many upgrades coming) . Now I have a Arrma Mojave 6S 1/7 V2 red😍 -next I believe will be the Losi SBR to finish off the set😂🏁🍻
Traxxas sent this to u? U said it was sent to u, but I thought Traxxas dont send channels their products unless u have like a million subs like Roman Atwood
Air-headed Aviator on most electric RC cars the braking is done by the electric motor. On nitros and gas powered the braking is usually done with a servo that controls some brake pads on either side of the center differential or on a 2wd brake pads on the input shaft of the gearbox. Sometimes people add disk brakes to the wheels, usually on larger scale. Something that would be useful on a rear wheel drive as being able to brake at the front wheels adds a lot better control.
It would have been nice to see the car drive on 6s without all the slow motion. Would love to have seen a high speed and some of the jumps at normal playback speed.
Great video. This rig isn't meant for high jumps. It's really meant to race on sand(desert), grass, gravel and small jumps. Your next rig for jumps should be the xMaxx👍🏿
Regarding what I'd like to see more of...fuel burners! Nitro, gasoline, both are sweet! Let's see...and hear...the awesomeness that engines bring to the table, and showcase why so many of us still run fuel burners despite the power measurements being lower. If I was in the area I'd totes bring my SC10GT and Mad Crusher GP down for that, run those in that yard.
I have several 6s RC cars and one 8s 1/5th scale. It definitely can be nerve wracking wrecking one that is really expensive. But for the most part the parts to fix them aren’t too expensive and it can be really fun and rewarding to fix stuff yourself. I bought most of my RC cars used, since I like fixing stuff and the cost isn’t as extreme. Actually for the most part most of my repairs haven’t been due to wrecks, but instead because I put more powerful motor/ESC in and the drivetrain tears itself apart. So I upgrade stuff as needed. I think for people getting started, buy something cheap and not too fast, but hobby grade and see if you like it. To me it became very addicting. Especially building stuff that is pushing the limits. No matter what all RC is cool, and it’s awesome that it can be enjoyed at so many levels and price ranges.
Wow this video was really well done!!! I'm very impressed and I wish I could find more videos about RC cars and other items before purchase like this that are super honest,crazy thorough, and without a bunch of B.S.👍
I have been playing with every concevable type and form of RC cars for 20 + Years and I still think the best fun you can have is 1/10 scale buggy/Stadium Truck racing on a backyard track with friends, doesn't have to be top end racers, two Traxxas rustlers and driver skill, talk about making memories. P.S. Cars are getting very little use since I have taken up Freestyle with my mini Quads, Flite Test's fault ;P
Hell yeah! I love my Buggy. I used to like Stadium trucks to but once I got my SC truck that all changed. It's just a fun experience and its very satisfying to drive one with the back end kicking out sliding around turns. So much fun and easily something that teaches allot of skills. I've actually gotten better at driving my buggy because of my SC truck!
I agree they are a lot of fun, just got sick of replacing bodies all the time on SC truck (So expensive now days) can't beat a buggy for body durability.
Idk if y’all will see this comment, but this is hands down the greatest video production I’ve ever seen in an RC video. VERY well done! I LOVE the perspective! I didn’t feel as though I was being sold something, it felt like I was talking to a friend about wether or not to buy this truck. Amazing job!
You guy's should do a review of the 1/24 mini crawler from hobbyking. hobbyking.com/en_us/basher-rocksta-1-24-4ws-mini-rock-crawler-rtr-metal-gear.html
I wouldn't really listen to anyone that talks positive about small company amazon RCs. They may work, do what its supposed to do but when it breaks its like 90s RCs, pretty much garbage. Parts support is key in RC. ...and UDR is not a basher. 😉
I'm a firm believer of just because you can doesn't mean you should.. yes 6S is hugely impressive with this truck but the reality is its just too much for this truck. 4S is a much better performance and reliability trade off. My first UDR I managed to wear out and break many parts running it on 6S. My UDR that followed I have stuck to 4S and they are far more controllable and reliable. Yes there are still breakages such as sway bars and certain parts of the bodywork but I have been able to drive and enjoy the UDR for much more and with less expense running it on less power.
As much as I love short course trucks. This thing is too big! I prefer to be in the 16th to 8th scale range. I like to scratch build and that spectrum of scales allows me to utilize a big selection of parts. But I have to tell you, that your RedCat Gen7 that you have used on DO as a camera rig, crawler etc. was a deciding factor when I was looking for a basic crawler. I don't lose sleep over doing mods and cross pollinating it with parts never meant for the brand. I will happily take a drill to it or Frankenstein something into it, that was never meant to fit a Gen7. And OEM parts aren't super plentiful but the main plant being in Phoenix I have yet to not be able to get or make something. DO is a good source of information.
Great comeback video to watch still spot on footage and I formation to consider. Thanks! I still haven't bought one. But if Traxxas made a 1/5 scale udr my gears would be turning!! Great video
you can on the trucks with larger wheels and plenty of power. This truck is more focused on scale performance, so it is a little more difficult to control in the air.
Add a few clicks of rebound to the rear bypasses, its bucking to much. Try moving the crossover rings on the rear coilovers down a little so that you stay at the softer rate longer. :D
Yeah, dude, I definitely agree. Don't get me wrong, I would love to have something like this truck, but for now I'm going cheap. Buying crawlers or anything else that are good, cheap and that I can upgrade later. So I already look for parts available, like bigger motor, oil filed chocks, metal parts and so on. But who knows... Maybe some day my situation improves. 😊 WTF am I saying, of course things are going to improve... I'm broke right now, anything would be an improvement! 😂
50% of the RC hobby is fixing that's just how it goes especially with the main company ( Traxxas) putting on plastic parts knowing it's going to break and you have to replace or upgrade but IT SURE IS FUN!!
Sorry , 🤔 but what part of its a " scale Hobby Truck ." Desert Racer was not in the memo , And ... those jumps in real life would Never even looked at or be attempted , Unless your frecken Evil Knievel .... I'm pretty darn sure , if it was indeed your own cash , with your own admitted limited experience of high speed RC Piloting , on 6s you might not be making those 200 foot scale jumps 🤤😨 lol ...in a UDR , you are closer to being a pilot than a driver as most of the time its more near floating an flying over the surface at those speeds ... Best on sandy loose surfaces .... an in the hands of experienced pilots these are absolutely insane fun to run But unbeatable in entertaining yourself and spectators alike ...😁 Cheers 🥂 for the Video an shearing... 🖖
I feel what you are saying. As a family man, it's hard to justify $700 on a toy car. That and generally I don't know anybody in RC who has just 1. Anyways, this UDR & I think the Losi Baja Rey are about the most awesome looking trophy trucks or just RCs out there. Problem is that these solid axle, scale designs are not great for at the track & jumps as that rear suspension donkey kicks off jumps. It's simply not what they were designed for. Standard short course trucks with all independent suspension is far better on the track and I think overall more durable when it comes to bashing.
I know alot of people hatin' on Traxxas, but really, why? What did they do? If you actually lauched a real truck off a cliff or huge jump of course its going to get damaged. Plus, the UDR was never advertised as a stunt truck in the first place.
Just stay away from Traxxas period if you're not willing to invest just as much money in replacing broken parts as what you originally paid for the vehicle. My UDR has cost me about $30 every two battery cycles. It doesn't matter how slow or wreckless you drive it, something will always break. Also be prepared to spend more time wrenching on it and doing routine maintenance than actually driving it, because of things like the shocks blowing cap gaskets, the tires coming unglued, the constant upkeep of the differentials, and cleaning the truck in general. And if you break something, always breakdown the entire truck because you also never just break one thing either. The truck is so to scale that it's just like a real race car. Costs a shit ton of money and time just to go play for a fraction of that time. The UDR is an absolute money pit. A vehicle that started as a promotional tool and was never really designed to be much more than that.
I like the idea of this, but would love something cheaper that's easily fixable to drive around in my backyard. Right now I have a Micro RS4 that I run in the house and on pavement. Is there something similar to that, say $200 and under that would have a lot of the fun of this fast off-roader?
Are you flying two drones in the air for the footage? Have the DJI Avata follow it around. 😂 I love the UDR, but I love my Mavic 3 Classic and 2 of my other drones more. ❤
Love + Hate with this car for obvious reasons. Barely hit a poll at 5mph maybe 8 in the grass and BAM! There went my front lower arm! 🤬 3rd day driving it.
Anyone that's new to the hobby I recommend getting a slash rustler or stampede vxl. Everyone says start out with brushed. But if you are around 12 or 13 brushed is going to get boring fast. Buy to vxl it saves money in the long run. Just because it says you can go 65 doesn't mean you have to change the gearing and slap a 3s in it. I sort of abuse my bashers and have only broken really cheap parts. They are tough trucks and you can also you the nickel batteries.
Please guys, EP8 buggies. They are pure performance machines designed to race at world levels, they jump and handle very well and are very efficient with displacing power
I enjoy working on the mechanical parts, but when it comes to electrical issues, they bother the heck outta me! I’ve had 2 Castle ESCs smoke within the same month...
I don't understand why an inexperienced driver is driving this in the first place. This is *not* something for a novice; that's what the Rustler XL-5 is for.
I always run my r/c trucks on smaller batteries. The slower speeds add to realism and the trucks don't suffer the carnage that usually accompanies increased speeds. Demonstrating some restraint can help preserve your investment and save you time on the work bench.
I just received my UDR today and I can’t wait to take it out.( at 3:48) One thing I noticed is that along with the two spare wheels there is a spare drive shaft( look forward of the two tires on the back), it likes like part of the frame but a closer look and it’s a spare shaft
My mini revo obviously should be sold with bigger diffs but who am I to complain. Esc died from water touching it. Arrggg. Now I have to send it in for the second time. Not to impressed with that. My mini revo cost me over 2000 now and that is enough for me. I am going to shuv a bunch of metal parts on it and shelf it. 😬. Now my Arrma Granite. It's shelf is Flying through the air. And I've had troubles trying to break it. Now let's look at both cost and value. The Traxxas mini const me now over 2000 in upkeep and it is broken ATM. Time spent driving her is minimum 🤔 Steering bell crank arms both Gone😭lol. And now Arrma 💪🏼❤️💪🏼❤️💪🏼👊😎 800 dollars spent on this overall from truck to battery to upgrade parts. (Tbone bumpers) Time spent driving the Granite has been 99% driving fun. One percent down time. I accidentally broke a rear bearing hub / left side. Since the fix it's been a solid basher. This says a lot. Seems how my trucks I drive like a Gramma most of the time. Well the revo Needs to be taken care of. Mans I have a crap ton of upgrades on the mini. This is just my personal experiences
Clearly dis guy has been reading arround lol. Hes selling but not trying to sound like selling u one. Hes saying bad points to actualy make you wanna buy it. Almost like selling a subaru or a land rover in telling you the specs and while its expensive still u buy it. 😅
Get a big rovan gasser so you dont go broke buying batteries and you fill gas tank maybe 10cents and bash for 30 min verce big$ for batteries that may last 6 to 8 min
Applying the throttle mid air transfers rotational mass from the tires into the vehicle pitching the vehicle up, hitting the brakes transfers energy pitching the vehicle down, we do this with our race buggies to land rear wheels (or flat) first. steering left can pitch the car right mid air and steering right and pitch the car left, great for off camber corners
You know for something that is supposed to be driven in a scale manor the UDR sure is durable and showed that with the way it was being driven in this video. My 2WD Slash with the HCG chassis is about as scale as I'll ever get. I have a soft suspension setup on it with semi hard tires which allows me to get that look of a SC truck in both suspension action and driving characteristics. It drive the truck by steering mostly with throttle input and counter steering. Its allot of fun and totally controllable once you get good at it. I do take mine off jumps and stuff but really nothing that'll break it too badly.
Ha, I totally agree. I race my little $100 1/18 scale buggy against these short course trucks and its always painful to watch them crash into each other, and just plough each other over xD Thanks for the great content!
I typically run my r/c trucks on lower battery capacity. I enjoy the hobby @ a more scale and less destructive pace. I don't mind wrenching for routine maintenance issues but if I have to fix a broken part then I (personally) know I pushed the r/c beyond it's intended design. I'm just not an inherently destructive person.
Achievement Unlocked: Drone Strike - 1,000 points
Take out a chase drone with a ground vehicle.
:D
I'm dying
The UDR isn't really meant for big jumps, for that you need the X-MaXX
been thinking this the entire video traxxas themselves say that its meant to be a scale truck. being a scale trophy truck its designed to handle some jumps and bumps with out breaking but it was never designed to be a basher .
@@hamsterwolf yeah a little bump that shoots you up a couple feet? no problem! the eight shocks soak that up without a hitch. but if you go much higher, the arms are gonna snap from bottoming out
@@realtired3670 We need more wheel travel and adjustable bypasses. Dual rate coilovers would be amazing too.
Yeah, it's not meant to be a basher. The selling point is realism in both the visuals and driving experience.
Oh you own both and have experience jumping both? Please link me to your video
The moral of the story is, RC is FUN!!!
yep and yep:)
Ryan Ocampo I liked your comment 👍👍👍
BALAZSER1 and I liked your reply, thanks
Ryan Ocampo You got another subscriber👍👍 If you upload I'll watch✌️
@@Drive_On this RC truck goes like what will real can drive this is like real car
The thing with the UDR is it's how scale it is. The same principals that govern the full size truck are the same as the scale truck. In no time in the rc hobby has a truck been so close to the real thing.
The UDR is definitely a completely different animal on 6s. When I got mine I ran it of 50% and it was, I'm told, same speed as 4s. When I put it on 100% power, it pulls the wheels up, spins the tires to about 30 on pavement and even sounds different. I upgraded a lot of it with aluminum from day 1 and have only pulled the skin off the screws along the rockers. I also have a Revo 3.3 and a Summit. There is many others in the purchase plans, but only have the 3 right now. As you said, I 100% agree, this truck is worth what I paid for it.
Can you do a video on the 100 mph Traxxas supercar?
Do you want to buy one for them? It's kinda pricey...
@@KT-jy4tf yes
This car is not supposed to be jumped. meant for straight line off road racing. like the real life version. You have a lot of followers. please tell them this will straight up just break taking it off jumps like you do. this rc should be for experienced people who run it like it was designed. I use my xmaxx to bash. my udr is for open slight bumpy road racing. it is not meant to crash hard. I do not know where you get your information from. good video. but ill facts and info for your followers who will waste the money in car and parts
Im new to the hobby with 2 young boys. What would you recommend as an electric off road basher?
@@chrisginoc well i am a traxxas fan though many will say negative things. me and my father have raced for over a decade. I have 7 year old my self. I started him on the traxxas stampede. they all have training modes. not too fast for them. perfect for starting out and parts are cheap and easy to replace. you could also go with the rustler or bandit. any of these 3 are a sure blast for any kid. hope this helps. any more questions feel free to ask.
The whole concept of this truck is scale reelism. It actually feels like you're driving on actual truck. it's not meant for jumping at all or Bashing at all. It's meant to be driven with respect as you would a real high performance truck. But to each his own have fun.... I love mine.
Philip your words are so true, my friend has one and I've had a few goes and it's like no other rc car. th-cam.com/video/e02h2TbppAU/w-d-xo.html......th-cam.com/video/4BCXARkK6Q0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/4BCXARkK6Q0/w-d-xo.html
this was a good video bud. you hit some key points that will be useful for a new person either thinking about or about to pull the trigger on a nearly thousand dollar model. the UDR is a beast for what its designed for which is scale driving and smaller jumps. its not made for bashing or for major air time. someone could be turned away from the hobby with a purchase so expensive and then break it and assume any model that is cheaper would obviously break easier because its cheaper. theres a lot of options way cheaper that would be just as enjoyable or more enjoyable because they would be a lot more durable and suited for a beginner. i just hope that company doesnt sue you guys. lol just kidding kinda. id love to see more content from this channel and i appreciate you guys sharing
Im new to the hobby. What should i look into if I want a basher?
Chris it really depends on where you will be driving it and what you are wanting it to do. That being said if you are pretty serious about the hobby which I’m sure you are if you ever have tried it lol best hobby in the world. But I bought a LOSI tenacity truggie. They have several different ones in that tenacity setup for around 300-350 then of course you have to have at least one battery and a way to charge it. But what I really love about it is your local hobby shop will have all the spare parts you need and it has a few things you can tweek on and get the feel for doing your own maintenance and things but you don’t have to worry about doing any alignments or anything. And in the future if you wanna get into it you can get the adjustable sway bars and tie rods but it’s perfect out of the box for bashing. The only thing I didn’t like at first was the fact that since I bought 3’s batteries right away I had to change the pinion gear before I ran it because it will over heat and burn the motor up if you don’t run 2’s on the one that’s mounted on the truck out of the box. Now they give you the pinion that you need for 3’s in the box and in my opinion that’s something you need to learn right away anyway because you will have to adjust your mesh from time to time. It’s not hard to do any of the work once you build your confidence up and the truck will grow with you too. Fully upgradable and has great customer service from horizon hobby. Sorry I wrote a book about it but I really hope that helps you. If you’re a guy who has plenty of money then get the traxxas emax and start with that for about 1300 bucks. But if you wanna work your way up to that or more expensive then start with something that’s not gonna break ya in case you find that you don’t wanna stick with it.
I meant traxxas xmax my phone wanted me to say emax sorry
@@chrisginoc I think a 2wd Slash VXL is the perfect starter car
@@chrisginoc Just go with the Slash 2WD Brushed model. Its plenty fast and really durable. There are tons of aftermarket parts for it too. I like the slash more than the Rustler because the front wheels are protected by the body so you are less likely to strip servo parts etc hitting your front tire on a wall, rock etc.
The way the rc leans back and glides with that suspension looks satisfing
This car, although it is awesome, is definitely not a beginner truck. Try out the hobby on a 200-300 dollar truck to get the feel of it then work your way into an awesome truck like this.
Exactly this.. even my Losi Baja Rey Raptor 1/10 may of been to much to start back with r/c after 15 years but glad I did now after a month of bashing in 3S (many upgrades coming) . Now I have a Arrma Mojave 6S 1/7 V2 red😍 -next I believe will be the Losi SBR to finish off the set😂🏁🍻
I love seeing the suspension work on this truck when going at high speed over rough terrain. Wait til you try out an Xmaxx on 8s!
Traxxas sent this to u? U said it was sent to u, but I thought Traxxas dont send channels their products unless u have like a million subs like Roman Atwood
STEVO D 313 I see ur comments everywhere lol
@@ryanspangler1651 hey it means u got good taste in RC channels, check mine out if u get a chance
Hell yeah..😂..i see you everywhere too...😎🤘
@@silentcontrol85 another guy whos got good taste on rc
I love my UDR!
I used to run my Slash 4x4 in the 60 MPH range. I was surprised at how much punishment it could handle during flips and impacts from crashes.
With great power comes......higher amps and voltages
great video I wanna see what u think about this vs the xmaxx? I cant decide which I would like to get
The answer is always the Xmaxx..
Two completely different animals lol. X Maxx is for bashing. UDR is for scale driving.
Do RC cars utilize some form of breaking function either mechanical or through the motor?
Air-headed Aviator on most electric RC cars the braking is done by the electric motor. On nitros and gas powered the braking is usually done with a servo that controls some brake pads on either side of the center differential or on a 2wd brake pads on the input shaft of the gearbox. Sometimes people add disk brakes to the wheels, usually on larger scale. Something that would be useful on a rear wheel drive as being able to brake at the front wheels adds a lot better control.
RICKY BOBBY LIKES THIS VIDEO!
It would have been nice to see the car drive on 6s without all the slow motion.
Would love to have seen a high speed and some of the jumps at normal playback speed.
I just bought one after watching this video and I absolutely love it 100 Worth my money
You mean 900 worth your money lol
Love the slow motion footage! Always quality content and great info guy's! Thanks for sharing!
Just bought one of these bad boys yesterday. Excited!
"most people have only one car...."
°checking my garage°
"yep.... only ... one ... car... ... not" :D
Arrma Senton, Traxxas UDR, Axial Wraith 1.9, 2x Traxxas TRX-4, 2x Tamiya CC-01, 3x Tamiya TT-02, Traxxas M41, ProBoat Sonicwake, Proboat Riverjet
Great video. This rig isn't meant for high jumps. It's really meant to race on sand(desert), grass, gravel and small jumps. Your next rig for jumps should be the xMaxx👍🏿
Regarding what I'd like to see more of...fuel burners! Nitro, gasoline, both are sweet! Let's see...and hear...the awesomeness that engines bring to the table, and showcase why so many of us still run fuel burners despite the power measurements being lower.
If I was in the area I'd totes bring my SC10GT and Mad Crusher GP down for that, run those in that yard.
I have several 6s RC cars and one 8s 1/5th scale. It definitely can be nerve wracking wrecking one that is really expensive. But for the most part the parts to fix them aren’t too expensive and it can be really fun and rewarding to fix stuff yourself. I bought most of my RC cars used, since I like fixing stuff and the cost isn’t as extreme. Actually for the most part most of my repairs haven’t been due to wrecks, but instead because I put more powerful motor/ESC in and the drivetrain tears itself apart. So I upgrade stuff as needed. I think for people getting started, buy something cheap and not too fast, but hobby grade and see if you like it. To me it became very addicting. Especially building stuff that is pushing the limits. No matter what all RC is cool, and it’s awesome that it can be enjoyed at so many levels and price ranges.
I started on 6s and i feel like it is not enough😂
You should equip this with fpv with the fpv camera mounted inside the driver-cabin, and then try running AND jumping it to see how you like it then.
What happened to Austin?
On Flite Test you guys built Bullet Bill. Now we need on this channel a RC Koopa Troopa Turtle Shell.
Wow this video was really well done!!!
I'm very impressed and I wish I could find more videos about RC cars and other items before purchase like this that are super honest,crazy thorough, and without a bunch of B.S.👍
You should make a track with obsticals like loops etc. That coupe be rally cool!
? Will Edgewater have rc car tracks too?
I have been playing with every concevable type and form of RC cars for 20 + Years and I still think the best fun you can have is 1/10 scale buggy/Stadium Truck racing on a backyard track with friends, doesn't have to be top end racers, two Traxxas rustlers and driver skill, talk about making memories.
P.S. Cars are getting very little use since I have taken up Freestyle with my mini Quads, Flite Test's fault ;P
Hell yeah! I love my Buggy. I used to like Stadium trucks to but once I got my SC truck that all changed. It's just a fun experience and its very satisfying to drive one with the back end kicking out sliding around turns. So much fun and easily something that teaches allot of skills. I've actually gotten better at driving my buggy because of my SC truck!
I agree they are a lot of fun, just got sick of replacing bodies all the time on SC truck (So expensive now days) can't beat a buggy for body durability.
@@Lance1739 ebay!
1/10 scale is the way to go
i got an ftx torro nitro and its so much fun
Awesome video brother! Straight and to the point and I can tell you are being completely unbiased and honest. Gained a sub from me!
Idk if y’all will see this comment, but this is hands down the greatest video production I’ve ever seen in an RC video. VERY well done! I LOVE the perspective! I didn’t feel as though I was being sold something, it felt like I was talking to a friend about wether or not to buy this truck. Amazing job!
You guy's should do a review of the 1/24 mini crawler from hobbyking.
hobbyking.com/en_us/basher-rocksta-1-24-4ws-mini-rock-crawler-rtr-metal-gear.html
I wouldn't really listen to anyone that talks positive about small company amazon RCs.
They may work, do what its supposed to do but when it breaks its like 90s RCs, pretty much garbage.
Parts support is key in RC. ...and UDR is not a basher. 😉
I'm a firm believer of just because you can doesn't mean you should.. yes 6S is hugely impressive with this truck but the reality is its just too much for this truck. 4S is a much better performance and reliability trade off. My first UDR I managed to wear out and break many parts running it on 6S. My UDR that followed I have stuck to 4S and they are far more controllable and reliable. Yes there are still breakages such as sway bars and certain parts of the bodywork but I have been able to drive and enjoy the UDR for much more and with less expense running it on less power.
As much as I love short course trucks.
This thing is too big!
I prefer to be in the 16th to 8th scale range. I like to scratch build and that spectrum of scales allows me to utilize a big selection of parts.
But I have to tell you, that your RedCat Gen7 that you have used on DO as a camera rig, crawler etc.
was a deciding factor when I was looking for a basic crawler. I don't lose sleep over doing mods and cross pollinating it with parts never meant for the brand.
I will happily take a drill to it or Frankenstein something into it, that was never meant to fit a Gen7. And OEM parts aren't super plentiful but the main plant being in Phoenix I have yet to not be able to get or make something.
DO is a good source of information.
It’s not short course, but rather class 8 in Baja and the closest ancestor is stadium super trucks
Great comeback video to watch still spot on footage and I formation to consider. Thanks!
I still haven't bought one. But if Traxxas made a 1/5 scale udr my gears would be turning!!
Great video
Great video as always guys and Alex well said.
Traxxas breaks. Arrma senton 6s. Cheaper, more durable. Barely breaks any parts (maybe 3 per year). Just as big. Just as powerful.
With no rear axel and not as stable + realistic
Arrma is garbage, worse than RedCat
I'm shickled titless it hit that damn drone....
You can use the throttle and reverse to control the truck in the air
you can on the trucks with larger wheels and plenty of power. This truck is more focused on scale performance, so it is a little more difficult to control in the air.
Add a few clicks of rebound to the rear bypasses, its bucking to much. Try moving the crossover rings on the rear coilovers down a little so that you stay at the softer rate longer. :D
Yeah, dude, I definitely agree.
Don't get me wrong, I would love to have something like this truck, but for now I'm going cheap. Buying crawlers or anything else that are good, cheap and that I can upgrade later. So I already look for parts available, like bigger motor, oil filed chocks, metal parts and so on.
But who knows... Maybe some day my situation improves. 😊
WTF am I saying, of course things are going to improve... I'm broke right now, anything would be an improvement! 😂
I've learned I can have alot of fun with 4s and 3s but 6s just ends up with broken and worn out parts.
50% of the RC hobby is fixing that's just how it goes especially with the main company ( Traxxas) putting on plastic parts knowing it's going to break and you have to replace or upgrade but IT SURE IS FUN!!
Sorry , 🤔 but what part of its a " scale Hobby Truck ." Desert Racer was not in the memo , And ... those jumps in real life would Never even looked at or be attempted , Unless your frecken Evil Knievel ....
I'm pretty darn sure , if it was indeed your own cash , with your own admitted limited experience of high speed RC Piloting , on 6s you might not be making those 200 foot scale jumps 🤤😨 lol ...in a UDR , you are closer to being a pilot than a driver as most of the time its more near floating an flying over the surface at those speeds ...
Best on sandy loose surfaces .... an in the hands of experienced pilots these are absolutely insane fun to run But unbeatable in entertaining yourself and spectators alike ...😁
Cheers 🥂 for the Video an shearing... 🖖
I feel what you are saying. As a family man, it's hard to justify $700 on a toy car. That and generally I don't know anybody in RC who has just 1. Anyways, this UDR & I think the Losi Baja Rey are about the most awesome looking trophy trucks or just RCs out there. Problem is that these solid axle, scale designs are not great for at the track & jumps as that rear suspension donkey kicks off jumps. It's simply not what they were designed for. Standard short course trucks with all independent suspension is far better on the track and I think overall more durable when it comes to bashing.
Udr is not for high jumps. Its a scaler not a basher. If you halved the hight of the jumps it wouldn't break
Plastic fantastic 😂
I know alot of people hatin' on Traxxas, but really, why? What did they do? If you actually lauched a real truck off a cliff or huge jump of course its going to get damaged. Plus, the UDR was never advertised as a stunt truck in the first place.
Just stay away from Traxxas period if you're not willing to invest just as much money in replacing broken parts as what you originally paid for the vehicle. My UDR has cost me about $30 every two battery cycles. It doesn't matter how slow or wreckless you drive it, something will always break. Also be prepared to spend more time wrenching on it and doing routine maintenance than actually driving it, because of things like the shocks blowing cap gaskets, the tires coming unglued, the constant upkeep of the differentials, and cleaning the truck in general. And if you break something, always breakdown the entire truck because you also never just break one thing either.
The truck is so to scale that it's just like a real race car. Costs a shit ton of money and time just to go play for a fraction of that time. The UDR is an absolute money pit. A vehicle that started as a promotional tool and was never really designed to be much more than that.
Talks about speed, slow motion on every moving shot. Great fucking job.
I like the idea of this, but would love something cheaper that's easily fixable to drive around in my backyard. Right now I have a Micro RS4 that I run in the house and on pavement. Is there something similar to that, say $200 and under that would have a lot of the fun of this fast off-roader?
Are you flying two drones in the air for the footage? Have the DJI Avata follow it around. 😂 I love the UDR, but I love my Mavic 3 Classic and 2 of my other drones more. ❤
Love + Hate with this car for obvious reasons. Barely hit a poll at 5mph maybe 8 in the grass and BAM! There went my front lower arm! 🤬 3rd day driving it.
Anyone that's new to the hobby I recommend getting a slash rustler or stampede vxl. Everyone says start out with brushed. But if you are around 12 or 13 brushed is going to get boring fast. Buy to vxl it saves money in the long run. Just because it says you can go 65 doesn't mean you have to change the gearing and slap a 3s in it. I sort of abuse my bashers and have only broken really cheap parts. They are tough trucks and you can also you the nickel batteries.
Please guys, EP8 buggies. They are pure performance machines designed to race at world levels, they jump and handle very well and are very efficient with displacing power
I just ran my senton on 6s for the first time today it was wild. But it was so much fun..
Get the e revo 2.0!!! It is totally awesome!! worth every cent. Standing badckflips? no problem!!
Hi!! I'm a beginner RC buyer. I want some adrenaline stuff like this video... Which car do you recommend me to buy?
Is there any way you could do a video of this thing and an FPV setup?
The UDR has power while the crawler has tongue, both diffrent things just to clear that for those unsure as he said that crawlers have power.
I enjoy working on the mechanical parts, but when it comes to electrical issues, they bother the heck outta me! I’ve had 2 Castle ESCs smoke within the same month...
I don't understand why an inexperienced driver is driving this in the first place. This is *not* something for a novice; that's what the Rustler XL-5 is for.
I always run my r/c trucks on smaller batteries. The slower speeds add to realism and the trucks don't suffer the carnage that usually accompanies increased speeds. Demonstrating some restraint can help preserve your investment and save you time on the work bench.
This is the new URC channel can’t wait for more content
I just received my UDR today and I can’t wait to take it out.( at 3:48) One thing I noticed is that along with the two spare wheels there is a spare drive shaft( look forward of the two tires on the back), it likes like part of the frame but a closer look and it’s a spare shaft
My mini revo obviously should be sold with bigger diffs but who am I to complain.
Esc died from water touching it.
Arrggg.
Now I have to send it in for the second time.
Not to impressed with that.
My mini revo cost me over 2000 now and that is enough for me.
I am going to shuv a bunch of metal parts on it and shelf it. 😬.
Now my Arrma Granite. It's shelf is Flying through the air. And I've had troubles trying to break it.
Now let's look at both cost and value.
The Traxxas mini const me now over 2000 in upkeep and it is broken ATM.
Time spent driving her is minimum 🤔
Steering bell crank arms both Gone😭lol.
And now Arrma 💪🏼❤️💪🏼❤️💪🏼👊😎
800 dollars spent on this overall from truck to battery to upgrade parts.
(Tbone bumpers)
Time spent driving the Granite has been 99% driving fun.
One percent down time.
I accidentally broke a rear bearing hub / left side.
Since the fix it's been a solid basher.
This says a lot.
Seems how my trucks I drive like a Gramma most of the time.
Well the revo Needs to be taken care of.
Mans I have a crap ton of upgrades on the mini.
This is just my personal experiences
2000 on the revo? That's bullshit and you know it.
RC cars are cool but at $800 I’m getting fresh set of wheels and tires or a suspension kit for my REAL car
Clearly dis guy has been reading arround lol. Hes selling but not trying to sound like selling u one. Hes saying bad points to actualy make you wanna buy it. Almost like selling a subaru or a land rover in telling you the specs and while its expensive still u buy it. 😅
UDR wasn’t built for bashing. It’s a dirt racer built for low jumps.
Get a big rovan gasser so you dont go broke buying batteries and you fill gas tank maybe 10cents and bash for 30 min verce big$ for batteries that may last 6 to 8 min
"With great power there must also come great responsibility" You HAD to use a spider man movie quote hmm.
But... its a cool vid. And you drove pretty awesome specially in the dirt
Applying the throttle mid air transfers rotational mass from the tires into the vehicle pitching the vehicle up, hitting the brakes transfers energy pitching the vehicle down, we do this with our race buggies to land rear wheels (or flat) first. steering left can pitch the car right mid air and steering right and pitch the car left, great for off camber corners
Great advice and very responsible and realistic way to look at the RC Hobby, Kudos to you My friend. Thanks for putting out a great video.
I am still thinking... is it better to buy Traxxas DR or HPI Ken Block?
they are not made for bashing at all, traxxas clearly states that its made for scale driving, if you bash it you WILL break parts
Great review. I believe the UDR should be on S4 if you want to spend less fixing time
My 6 yr old got into rc cars and I got one of these so I could play with him not knowing how serious it was😅😅😂😂😂
hola soy NICOLAS Y ME GUSTAN MUCHO ESTAS CAMIONETAS Y AUTOS Y QUIERO SABER QUE HACEN PARA QUE CORRAN TAN RAPIDOS LOS VEHICULOS RC
You know for something that is supposed to be driven in a scale manor the UDR sure is durable and showed that with the way it was being driven in this video.
My 2WD Slash with the HCG chassis is about as scale as I'll ever get. I have a soft suspension setup on it with semi hard tires which allows me to get that look of a SC truck in both suspension action and driving characteristics. It drive the truck by steering mostly with throttle input and counter steering. Its allot of fun and totally controllable once you get good at it. I do take mine off jumps and stuff but really nothing that'll break it too badly.
If you're worried about breaking the car, how about not jumping it?
Would liked to have seen it in normal speed. Stupid having a video about a fast truck in slo-mo.
I tend to stay away from launching my cars
Hehehehehehe he said most people are only gonna have one rc car............. maybe for the first 3 months
Not worth for the price. 👎 even a hobby grade chinese model performs better than this.
Spoken like a person that doesn't have one. It's worth every penny
@@AM-wi6zo and nothing else out there ANYwhere looks this good 😎
Ha, I totally agree. I race my little $100 1/18 scale buggy against these short course trucks and its always painful to watch them crash into each other, and just plough each other over xD Thanks for the great content!
I have run my rc on a 10s a 6s is the smallest I have
I own a UDR and I was more impressed with the drone. Anybody have a model #
Hahaha that jump wasn't even high that's not durable
To learn. Buy 10/15$ rc car till your ready for this truck
I typically run my r/c trucks on lower battery capacity. I enjoy the hobby @ a more scale and less destructive pace. I don't mind wrenching for routine maintenance issues but if I have to fix a broken part then I (personally) know I pushed the r/c beyond it's intended design. I'm just not an inherently destructive person.
I feel that and I think I’m beginning to realize the same thing about myself.. 👍
Is it gonna die when I drive like submarine with no waterproofing work?
Hello my name is justice i have a RC car that is $100 and sped is 100mp