Thanks a lot for taking the time to put this video together. You did a fantastic job of explaining in simple terms what's going on without the need for a bunch of fancy gauges and equipment. This is something even an amateur could accomplish.
I admire your method and abilities. I paid a shop $350 for the same repair on my F150 last year. Actually at the time I didn't think that was too bad. I've heard Chevy guys say this is one of the stupid things about Fords - like Chevys don't have their own special problems lol!
Excellent methodical approach in a proper home mechanic setting . This should save a lot of money for those with similar issues. Loved the bit where the small hammer caused thread damage so the solution was a bigger hammer :) .
We’ll explained. I’ve done this at about 80000 km and now I’m at about 160000 km and need to do it again. Thanks for a clear explanation of what to do.
Excellent video my friend! I'm hearing grinding noise on the driver's side of my 2013 F150 4x4 Lariat. I recently had an accident that resulted in damaged to the *passenger side* suspension. I would have never expected to find the problem for a driver's side noise caused by a damaged IWE unit on the passenger side. Brilliant, my friend! I'll be getting back in touch with my body shop to explain the issue and (hopefully) get this fixed under further insurance coverage (assuming that it is indeed the same issue that you've encountered). As always, thanks much for sharing, Elin. I very much appreciate it. Steve
This is awesome. I didn’t need this video but great overall on your practice. I like fords IWEs better than my 4Runner. My 4Runner uses 1 vacuum actuator that connects or disconnects the front drive shaft to my front differential (ADD: automatic diff disconnect). So when I’m in 2wd on my Toyota, both CV axles and the front diff always spin if front wheels are on the ground. When in 4x4, the transfer case propels the front driveshaft and connects it to front diff via vacuum.
really good work. you show how the system works and even draw up a diagram. taking the proper time to understand the system will result in the correct diagnosis and save lots of money! $$ good job!
Check out Ford's TSB 22-2219 from June of 2022 now that you've replaced the parts...there is a fix from the TSB that can assist with the IWE not failing/grinding in the future due to partial engagement.
On the 2015 F150 take a look at the Exhaust Cross member that runs just under the back of the tranny pan. There is a metal strap that helps hold down a heat shield - it will rust through (super thin metal strap). It will sit there and jiggle when your vehicle is at an idle and drive you nuts trying to figure out if it's the tranny, IWE's, Steering. Nope - it's that dippy little 50 cent strap put around the heat shield.
Nice bit of logical diagnosis Elin. I didn't know how these systems worked , having only worked on classic Land Rover dog clutch system back in the day. Things move on eh ! Back to the Jeep on the next one..
Thanks that is really what I needed to know about those front cv axles, they should not move when there is vacume, that explains my fuel mileage.....thank you so much.
I noticed tie rod ends pointing down , I think spec is pointing up which seems weird to me putting more Angie on that ball joint Especially when I lifted the truck 2.5 inches i though making it point down would give it less articulation but yet I did not do it and did it how it was.
I found a 1/8" vacuum line was broken just behind the front bumper (from the IWE), before I tore the whole wheel apart! That said, I'm sure some damage was done as I had to drive it 90+ miles with the loud noise. Think horses, not zebra for a simple fix. I was able to patch the line and it works great now, but will send it to the shop for a week while on vacation to fix that which might have been destroyed.
Canadian Tire has a great rubberized undercoating it is like oily tar out of the rattle can, and dries hard and it works great.....Looking under your truck you need it :-))))
I was getting a ticking from my front driver side on ecelaration, God it was annoying,,I watch a video on this same issue ,,I put the car in four wheel drive and drove it for a aboy 5 miles , the sound was gone. ,I put it back to two wheel drive si far the ticking noise gone , I was told to change thar solenoid, thank great video
Hi, great video. I had this trouble once. The sound was because one IWE is engaged, and the other is not engaged. Thus the engaged IWE is spinning the differential and since the other axle is stopped (friction?)m the differential is spinning the driveshaft at 2x speed. So if you are driving 60mph the driveshaft (and R&P) are spinning at 120mph. And it's being reverse-driven so it is loud. So how do I know it is this? Because when I switch to 4wd, then the transfer case locks, and all things spin at equal speeds (even though one IWE is not engaged so 4wd drive is not being made) and the noise stops.
nothing like reinventing the wheel every few years...extra maintenance and parts -special 2 line hose and vacuum circuit, constant vacuum hub assembly, wiring switches and relays...
I have a 2014 f150 3.5 where is the jacking point from under the engine ? I want to lift up my truck but do not want to bend anything please explain where i can lift from detail please 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
got a question. In theory, if I were to take a couple of hoses, one for each wheel, apply suction and crimp them off, I could use my truck in 2 Wheel Drive, correct?
@@RustyBeauties my 2005 5.4L began intermittent screeching a week ago. Not grinding but more like someone applying breaks with badly worn breaks. Then it stops. Won’t happen again for a few seconds or sometimes minutes. Has done it at highway speeds and driving around 30mph. Seems to be coming from both front wheels. Is this the same as the grinding you’re speaking of?
@CaptainBillBrown did you ever figure out what it was. I'm having the same sound even after I changed out the cv axel which was bad but still have the intermittent squel
Garages, work benches, modern F-150 repair and seriously rusted out bloody old useless (you don't even really need it) Jeep, all very interesting huh! But where are the real Rusty Beauties, the real old Triumphs? Please. Ben ;-))
Thanks a lot for taking the time to put this video together. You did a fantastic job of explaining in simple terms what's going on without the need for a bunch of fancy gauges and equipment. This is something even an amateur could accomplish.
Update. Fixed it. Thanks again for the expert diagnosis and detailed repair!
I admire your method and abilities. I paid a shop $350 for the same repair on my F150 last year. Actually at the time I didn't think that was too bad. I've heard Chevy guys say this is one of the stupid things about Fords - like Chevys don't have their own special problems lol!
Excellent methodical approach in a proper home mechanic setting . This should save a lot of money for those with similar issues. Loved the bit where the small hammer caused thread damage so the solution was a bigger hammer :) .
We’ll explained. I’ve done this at about 80000 km and now I’m at about 160000 km and need to do it again. Thanks for a clear explanation of what to do.
Learned alot more than I bargained for with this video. Thanks for posting your knowledge that you gained, so we can too.
VERY well done. Video also well done - good angles easy to see what was going on. Nice job.
Thanks a lot Elin! I'll never own a Ford and I'll never own a pickup, but I enjoyed learning how the system works.
Why are you hear? How did you get here?
Excellent video my friend! I'm hearing grinding noise on the driver's side of my 2013 F150 4x4 Lariat. I recently had an accident that resulted in damaged to the *passenger side* suspension. I would have never expected to find the problem for a driver's side noise caused by a damaged IWE unit on the passenger side. Brilliant, my friend! I'll be getting back in touch with my body shop to explain the issue and (hopefully) get this fixed under further insurance coverage (assuming that it is indeed the same issue that you've encountered).
As always, thanks much for sharing, Elin. I very much appreciate it.
Steve
This is awesome. I didn’t need this video but great overall on your practice. I like fords IWEs better than my 4Runner. My 4Runner uses 1 vacuum actuator that connects or disconnects the front drive shaft to my front differential (ADD: automatic diff disconnect). So when I’m in 2wd on my Toyota, both CV axles and the front diff always spin if front wheels are on the ground. When in 4x4, the transfer case propels the front driveshaft and connects it to front diff via vacuum.
really good work. you show how the system works and even draw up a diagram. taking the proper time to understand the system will result in the correct diagnosis and save lots of money! $$ good job!
Check out Ford's TSB 22-2219 from June of 2022 now that you've replaced the parts...there is a fix from the TSB that can assist with the IWE not failing/grinding in the future due to partial engagement.
Thanks for putting this video together and explaining everything. Very informative!
Best video yet.. I've been watching these videos for a year now. Salute!
very well done and easy to follow, and great presentation
Very informative. Thanks for sharing! Your drawing really spells it out.
GREAT VIDEO !! basically explained the whole concept and now im confident i can tackle this issue myself before winter hits !
thanks man !!
Excellent video! Very good camera work. I appreciate you sharing this.
Great trouble shooting! My 2011 F 150 has that exact problem.
Thank you!
great video,. i'm sure it'll be a lifesaver for someone with the same issue
On the 2015 F150 take a look at the Exhaust Cross member that runs just under the back of the tranny pan. There is a metal strap that helps hold down a heat shield - it will rust through (super thin metal strap). It will sit there and jiggle when your vehicle is at an idle and drive you nuts trying to figure out if it's the tranny, IWE's, Steering. Nope - it's that dippy little 50 cent strap put around the heat shield.
Great video. Thanks for the tutorial. I think we both said, “Uh-oh”, at the same time. But, it all worked out!!!
Perfect explanation and trouble shooting! keep up the good videos!
Nice bit of logical diagnosis Elin. I didn't know how these systems worked , having only worked on classic Land Rover dog clutch system back in the day. Things move on eh ! Back to the Jeep on the next one..
If you replace the wheel bearing assembly, does that also include the iwe? Or is the iwe separate from that?
Thanks that is really what I needed to know about those front cv axles, they should not move when there is vacume, that explains my fuel mileage.....thank you so much.
Excellent video Elin. Thank you very much.
Very good video,man. I learned a lot. You went through it nicely for us to learn something....thank you for a good video..
interesting I had no idea that's how it worked . Glad you got it fixed.
impressive diagnostic work
Thank you so much. That is an excellent video. Well done.
I noticed tie rod ends pointing down , I think spec is pointing up which seems weird to me putting more Angie on that ball joint Especially when I lifted the truck 2.5 inches i though making it point down would give it less articulation but yet I did not do it and did it how it was.
Thank you! This is an excellent video and explanation.
I found a 1/8" vacuum line was broken just behind the front bumper (from the IWE), before I tore the whole wheel apart! That said, I'm sure some damage was done as I had to drive it 90+ miles with the loud noise. Think horses, not zebra for a simple fix. I was able to patch the line and it works great now, but will send it to the shop for a week while on vacation to fix that which might have been destroyed.
Great vid! So the noise was in the left side, but it was the pass. side that was bad???
Canadian Tire has a great rubberized undercoating it is like oily tar out of the rattle can, and dries hard and it works great.....Looking under your truck you need it :-))))
Great video. I think I may be doing this tomorrow..
I have been chasing this same issue on our 2004 FX4
Same 2006 shop is clueless
Thank you so much, u re so excellent and skillful.
That's no bueno, thank you for the video it helped me a lot.
What is the torque for the three 8 millimeters bolts holding the actuator ?
I was getting a ticking from my front driver side on ecelaration, God it was annoying,,I watch a video on this same issue ,,I put the car in four wheel drive and drove it for a aboy 5 miles , the sound was gone. ,I put it back to two wheel drive si far the ticking noise gone , I was told to change thar solenoid, thank great video
Hi, great video. I had this trouble once. The sound was because one IWE is engaged, and the other is not engaged. Thus the engaged IWE is spinning the differential and since the other axle is stopped (friction?)m the differential is spinning the driveshaft at 2x speed. So if you are driving 60mph the driveshaft (and R&P) are spinning at 120mph. And it's being reverse-driven so it is loud. So how do I know it is this? Because when I switch to 4wd, then the transfer case locks, and all things spin at equal speeds (even though one IWE is not engaged so 4wd drive is not being made) and the noise stops.
Easy check jack up the front both sides start truck see if hub is engaged my problem was the little check valve by the master cylinder
Great work Ellin! I learned a lot today from you!
Thanks Peter. Wouldn't happen without you!
@@RustyBeauties I just play a small role in the play. I am still not happy about the water issue.
Great instructor.
Great job plus a great video.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Not much grease left in the original part !
Time to service the other side ?
nothing like reinventing the wheel every few years...extra maintenance and parts
-special 2 line hose and vacuum circuit, constant vacuum hub assembly, wiring switches and relays...
I don’t have this on my truck but it’s a 4 x 4? Will I be okay??
What about if I been driving the vehicle for I while, I got to change a new part where the 4x4 goes
I have a 2014 f150 3.5 where is the jacking point from under the engine ? I want to lift up my truck but do not want to bend anything please explain where i can lift from detail please 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Very nice video
Really interesting diagnosis and cure and so nice not to be about rust!
Where's the check valve?
Nice problem solving! Thanks.
ty for the info it will help me alot
Looks like that chassis is turnin into a rusty beauty Elin and them disks 😂😂😂
Can you drive if your vacuum line is broken?
Great video!
Great video
Fantastic video, thank you
Nice Job!
got a question. In theory, if I were to take a couple of hoses, one for each wheel, apply suction and crimp them off, I could use my truck in 2 Wheel Drive, correct?
Correct, if the IWE is in a good shape and holds vacuum that should work temporarily
@@RustyBeauties my 2005 5.4L began intermittent screeching a week ago. Not grinding but more like someone applying breaks with badly worn breaks. Then it stops. Won’t happen again for a few seconds or sometimes minutes. Has done it at highway speeds and driving around 30mph. Seems to be coming from both front wheels. Is this the same as the grinding you’re speaking of?
Very good vid. Very informative. I have the same problem. Thanks
@CaptainBillBrown did you ever figure out what it was. I'm having the same sound even after I changed out the cv axel which was bad but still have the intermittent squel
As Edd China would say: "job done!"
Awesome 🙌🙌🙌🙌
WELL DONE
Thx for the video great one 👍🚗😊
What was making the grinding noise ? Was the front drive half engaged ?
That's what I'm wondering. I have a noise during left turns that supposedly is right wheel hub. Changed it and still have noise.
Nice thank you
Thank you!
Why don’t any video let you hear the sound 🤦♂️
nice job
Good job
Thankyou.
what was the part you replaced?
IWE (Integrated Wheel End)
A lot of parts places call it a 4WD Actuator.
You should have been a medical doctor. I think people are less complicated!
You need a bigger shop jack. Great - figure it out and eliminate all but the problem then how to fix it.
No.... he just needed a bigger hammer.
Garages, work benches, modern F-150 repair and seriously rusted out bloody old useless (you don't even really need it) Jeep, all very interesting huh! But where are the real Rusty Beauties, the real old Triumphs? Please. Ben ;-))
Hah! You are working on an F-150 and the TH-cam commercials are for a Silverado. Well played Chevy, well played.
Thank you! Especially for the use of the words 'counter intuitive'.
I just bought and installed iwe value on my f150 2015 v8 took mins
What is that?
I hear an intermittent growl/hum from passenger side. Was yours a continuous noise or can it be intermittent also?