I’ve had bearings, front diff and brake work done on my f150 and I still have a similar sound, this video is the closest to what the problem might probably be thank you so much sir
I’ve owned a Ford Expedtion since 2017 and it has had this issue and required a solenoid replacement. I’ve been aware of this design flaw since I’m a member of an Expedition forum, but this visual demonstration is amazing and very underrated. Thanks for this!
Seems that but way but it's s wrong. When the actuators are engaged (no vacuum) it is not in 4wheel drive. When 4wheel drive is engaged THEN the activator is engaged(or should be) thus completing the 4wheel drive engagement. This videos is worded saying the 4wheel drive is engaged when the IWE is activated which isnot correct. IWE merely engages the wheels to the driveshafts, otherwise the wheels are floating.
@SamSam-ke9zy except you are wrong and he is right. Did you miss the part where puts vac to it and it disengaged and then he removes vac and it locks?
@@alhuthailiusa8151”Integrated Wheel End The IWE is short for Integrated Wheel End. This is a system that uses a vacuum to lock the hubs when you engage different drive modes on your truck”
Sub'd thank you for taking the time to explain this. While not completely mechanically challenged, 4WD hubs are new to me. SUPER helpful! I have a '21 F-150 that is plagued by this, and I think I am just going to get rid of it. This will be the fourth time I've had it in the shop.
@erwxn04 I took the locker hub out because it was old and needed to be replaced. But what actually fixed it was pulling the vacuum lines and the check valve, then putting the new set it. It took 2 hours ish. For the vacuum lines because ford sells it in hoke for $180 Canadian. And the hub was just the locker inside. Unfortunately that took 3 hours . Because I had it stuck on by the bolts .. but I'd assume a total of 2 hors if you have no luck lol. And I think it was about the same price for the locker hub. .. So a total of 500 and a few hours. Not hard to repair and then your good to go.
@colchilibeck This is a great video, thank you for the explanation. If I have driven with this noise off and on for a few hundred miles do you think it would damage the hubs and require them to be replaced? I will start with the check valve to see if it stops but am wondering if I have done more damage?
GREAT video! This has been absolutely driving me crazy and I couldn't get the shop to hear it or pinpoint it. Does this cause any damage if it keeps being driven in this state ?
Colin, Your the best, Simple and smart way to show us.. My garage can't get to do the work for a week to fix it. Does it sporatitally. Will I continue to do more harm driving untill then? Thanks again....
Thanks. Glad to hear it’s not just a rattle and is actually metal gears getting ground flat. I love my Ford! Is a clunk from the front when the engine starts related to it? (2019)
Thank you - I've been having a noise that only lasts a second and usually happens in the first mile of so at low throttle. When I step on the gas the noise goes away. I've replaced the check valve and the solenoid but i still have the noise. It's very hard to tell where it is coming from and I'm a little concerned its the transmission but I don't feel anything slipping or anything. The noise you are generating sounds very similar to what I'm hearing. When I replaced the two upper components there was plenty of vacuum in the lines a day later so maybe it is the IWE units themselves. I'm trying to narrow things down so when I take it in I can point them in the right direction otherwise I'm going to get the ole couldn't reproduce the problem answer and waste a day.
@@bestofmma7043 It was the IWE units. They replaced both plus the hubs (not sure that was necessary). One of the new IWE units was also defective so they had to do it twice but that was under warranty at least - it cost me $1400.
@@scottyV1000 and question man when you hear that grind do you have your cruise control on? And do you hear the grinding noise even your foot not on gas pedal? Cuz usually hear mine when I’m 5 percent on my gas pedal cruising but I don’t think it does it when I’m not on the gas
Had this issue on my Raptor. It was the vacuum hub actuator. Its seal looked intact, but when u moved your finger around the entire circumstance, there was a 2” split on it.
So if I were to unplug the vacuum line supplying the valve, I assume that would leave the faulty IWE's fully engaged so they would not make this sound anymore? Then I would know for sure that the IWE was the issue.
Could this be an issue in the rear of an all wheel drive 2016 escape? I’m having an issue where when I accelerate while turning there is a grinding noise. It only happens while I’m turning and accelerating at the same time.
Mine runs perfect in 4H. When I switch to 2H, I get the gridning noise from the passenger side only. I unhooked some of the lines and tested with a vacuum guage. At the solenoid, I'm getting 23-24inHg. The driver side, that is working properly is getting 23-24inHg. The passenger side, that is not fully disengaging is only getting 10inHg. Could that be the problem? It seems to be dropping vacuum right after the connection where is splits to go to both sides. 2007 F150 FX4. Any ideas? TIA
Having this issue with my truck. Jist bought it last April, the people at the shop are saying they can't re-create the noise so they aren't doing anything about it. Spent 2k on a warranty and they're trying to act like they haven't seen or heard of this issue before.
I have a popping sound right before im coming to a stop and right when im taking off doesnt do it til i hit a low enough speed any idea? 2005 f150ank u in advance
Can you do one showing how the EIWE works for 21+ models? Or even better do a side by side. I am not exactly clear on how they work and I want to be more informed when they break in ten years. Lol
Hi, great video. I had this trouble once. The sound was because one IWE is engaged, and the other is NOT engaged. Thus the engaged IWE is spinning the differential and since the other axle is stopped (friction?) the differential is spinning the driveshaft by the spiders at 2x speed. So if you are driving 60mph; the driveshaft (and R&P) are spinning at 120mph. And it's being reverse-driven so it makes a lot of gear-noise (or because the spiders are straight-cut). So how do I know it is this? Because when I switch to 4wd, then the transfer case locks, and all things NOW spin at equal speeds (even though one IWE is not engaged so 4wd drive is not being made) and the noise stops.
I just found one of my hubs was manually locked and the other was in auto. Same symptoms you described. I suspect some foul play from some kids. This video helped to identify the issue. I switched both to auto and all good now.
If u have both failing chances are its solenoid or a chk valve or a vacumn leak up top before it tees off and a pretty bad leak Rarely hear of both failing at same time but nothing would surprise me with this system i Absolutly hate it
I’m getting this sound only when engaging 4wd. When I switch it back to 2wd the grinding/rumble strip feeling goes away. Do you think I can have a bad iwe that’s not fully engaging?
2005 5.4 here... my make bang noise no grinding only when I switch to 4hi I switch back to 2wd and go back to 4Hi and now working fine I think my actuator not fully angage and desengage sometimes that cut be the actuator or vacuum problem?
Thanks! I'm not so much hearing the noise as feeling it as a grinding through the floorboards at about 30-40mph. My 4x4 switch had broken some time back and I just replaced the switch and tested it and it appeared to operate normally. I guess I need to go through the workshop manual for the IWE and test it out.
If one IWE is engaged, and the other is not, and makes noise in 2wd that noise is from the differential spider gears being driven by the one locked axle. The center driveshaft is then spinning at twice 30-40mph (or 60-80mph) . If when you switch to 4wd, the noise stops, this is it. It clunks real hard goping to 4wd because the spiders spin the driveshaft at double speed.
@@t_sodo8745 I've already checked the proper operation of the IWEs and unfortunately the noise doesn't stop when AWD is engaged. I'm going to have to go through the whole drive train and see if I can find something. I just changed the driver-side wheel hub and bearing because I I was convinced that was the problem. No change. The only thing I noticed when I did the disassembly was that the rotor has a larger than normal rust line and the inner pad looked a little strange. The problem occurs whether I'm braking or not though and it doesn't get worse while breaking. It's driving me crazy!
Yikes !! So that can’t be good for the teeth on the hub bearing and or the iwe ! Just Replaced hub bearing passenger side on a 06 f150 4x4. And now I have this noise from the drivers side I don’t get why a new hub on the other side would make it start havibg noise right away Did new check valves a few years ago along with the updated solenoid. Literally first highway trip after the new hub and I have sound. I don’t get it
@@97VobraOwner Ive had the same issue. I have been to the dealership twice to try to show the service department tech the noise, and it didn't make the noise for them of course until now its bad enough. There is a TSB (#22-2219) for this issue, and it should "also" be covered under power train warranty if you're under 60K / 5 years. My grip is that I shouldn't have to prove it before they act on it. Customer concern should be enough.
@DD thanks! I disconnected it back 9 months ago and have not had an issue since. Driven like 40k miles like this. Just crazy that they know it's an issue yet they are still using the same set up. Even the tsb for this states to remove it. So why put it in in the first place.
@@itsallgooddan Quick question. So you just disconnect the electrical connector into the little black solenoid by the brake booster correct? Any issues yet? I’m driving from Texas to Michigan soon and might have to disconnect that as a temporary fix or I might just leave it
Clearly and incorrectly explained. The wheels are floating till the IWE is engaged. The IWE activation doesNOT cause it to go into 4wheel drive. It merely locks the wheels to the front drive line sk when the TRANSFERCASE engages the 4wheel drive it will give power to the front wheels. Active IWE only causes the front drive shaft to move which has no power (no 4wheel drive) till the transfercase engages.
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I’ve had bearings, front diff and brake work done on my f150 and I still have a similar sound, this video is the closest to what the problem might probably be thank you so much sir
I have watched countless videos on this subject this is by far the best one thank u so so much
I’ve owned a Ford Expedtion since 2017 and it has had this issue and required a solenoid replacement. I’ve been aware of this design flaw since I’m a member of an Expedition forum, but this visual demonstration is amazing and very underrated. Thanks for this!
Best IWE demonstration on TH-cam 👍
Seems that but way but it's s wrong. When the actuators are engaged (no vacuum) it is not in 4wheel drive. When 4wheel drive is engaged THEN the activator is engaged(or should be) thus completing the 4wheel drive engagement. This videos is worded saying the 4wheel drive is engaged when the IWE is activated which isnot correct. IWE merely engages the wheels to the driveshafts, otherwise the wheels are floating.
@SamSam-ke9zy except you are wrong and he is right. Did you miss the part where puts vac to it and it disengaged and then he removes vac and it locks?
Thanks for taking the time to set this up and make this video!
That completely explains the noise I had on my last f150 while towing our travel trailer!
This is an incredible explanation and demo. Nice job
This is EXACTLY the video I needed.
Amen!!!!
Hell yea it was
U solved the issue ?
@@alhuthailiusa8151 Ford fixed it under warranty. IWE failed.
It's the video we all needed.
This is the best information about this anywhere! Thank you!
Great explanation of how the IWE works and demonstration of failure sounds/indicators.
What does IWE stands for ?
@@alhuthailiusa8151”Integrated Wheel End
The IWE is short for Integrated Wheel End. This is a system that uses a vacuum to lock the hubs when you engage different drive modes on your truck”
integrated wheel end@@alhuthailiusa8151
Thank you. Helped me diagnose and repair my truck.
Sub'd thank you for taking the time to explain this. While not completely mechanically challenged, 4WD hubs are new to me. SUPER helpful! I have a '21 F-150 that is plagued by this, and I think I am just going to get rid of it. This will be the fourth time I've had it in the shop.
To the point and very clear explanation. Thank you
Omg lifesaver! Ive been chasing this problem all around trying to fig it out! Nailed it
this is exactly what i needed! great video thank you !
That is the noise I couldn't pinpoint. Thank you.
Absolutely perfect.
Appreciate it. Exactly the sound duplicated and an explanation. Perfect.
what did you do to fix it
@erwxn04 I took the locker hub out because it was old and needed to be replaced. But what actually fixed it was pulling the vacuum lines and the check valve, then putting the new set it.
It took 2 hours ish. For the vacuum lines because ford sells it in hoke for $180 Canadian.
And the hub was just the locker inside. Unfortunately that took 3 hours . Because I had it stuck on by the bolts .. but I'd assume a total of 2 hors if you have no luck lol. And I think it was about the same price for the locker hub. ..
So a total of 500 and a few hours.
Not hard to repair and then your good to go.
AWESOME video. Just perfect. The engine vacuum drops under acceleration that explains why I hear the noise only with acceleration! Thank you.
did you ever find the fix?
Best video out there for this issue I appreciate you man
Great video. Great demonstration. Kudos
This is an amazing demonstration. Thanks!
Phenomenal explanation
That’s the same exact noise I’m hearing in my raptor! Thank you
Very good explanation.
Amazing! You nailed it! Thank you
THE best video on IWE. Idk why they didn’t just make this electronic. Vacuum is ridiculously complex and stupid.
Wow I never knew it could cause a grinding sound, I would have just assumed a bearing was the problem. Good info for future trouble shooting.
Great video that really explains source symptoms
That’s exactly what I have on my ssangyong Rexton w 2016.
Thank you so much!
Driver side was just replaced under warranty and this explanation is perfect!
You're very lucky!
@@dsiungerich yeah, I was. Now the AC Compressor is gone, just two months out of extended warranty.
@@dsiungerich what’s your repair cost? When they did mine the axle was seized and so that was covered, tok
OUstanding vid/explanation. Thank you.
Awesome video man
Great explanation. thank you!
This was awesome
Thank you
This makes too much sense now, thank you
You did a great job!
awesome video
Not sure if that is my problem. But either way, absolutely great explaining. Keep it up.
Great video. It's been making that noise for awhile surely the gears are toast by now what parts should be replaced?
Thanks nice explanation
@colchilibeck This is a great video, thank you for the explanation. If I have driven with this noise off and on for a few hundred miles do you think it would damage the hubs and require them to be replaced? I will start with the check valve to see if it stops but am wondering if I have done more damage?
U are the best broooo
GREAT video! This has been absolutely driving me crazy and I couldn't get the shop to hear it or pinpoint it. Does this cause any damage if it keeps being driven in this state ?
Need to know this!
Yes it does i went through 3 sets of hubs while the dealer diagnosed the fix
Colin, Your the best, Simple and smart way to show us.. My garage can't get to do the work for a week to fix it. Does it sporatitally. Will I continue to do more harm driving untill then? Thanks again....
Just what i needed to know
Thanks. Glad to hear it’s not just a rattle and is actually metal gears getting ground flat. I love my Ford!
Is a clunk from the front when the engine starts related to it?
(2019)
Thank you - I've been having a noise that only lasts a second and usually happens in the first mile of so at low throttle. When I step on the gas the noise goes away. I've replaced the check valve and the solenoid but i still have the noise. It's very hard to tell where it is coming from and I'm a little concerned its the transmission but I don't feel anything slipping or anything. The noise you are generating sounds very similar to what I'm hearing. When I replaced the two upper components there was plenty of vacuum in the lines a day later so maybe it is the IWE units themselves. I'm trying to narrow things down so when I take it in I can point them in the right direction otherwise I'm going to get the ole couldn't reproduce the problem answer and waste a day.
Having the same issue did you find out what’s yours?
@@bestofmma7043 It was the IWE units. They replaced both plus the hubs (not sure that was necessary). One of the new IWE units was also defective so they had to do it twice but that was under warranty at least - it cost me $1400.
@@scottyV1000 thankyou bro thought u weren’t gonna reply cuz it’s been 11 months ago haha
@@bestofmma7043 Just saw it today - I must have slow internet :-)).
@@scottyV1000 and question man when you hear that grind do you have your cruise control on? And do you hear the grinding noise even your foot not on gas pedal? Cuz usually hear mine when I’m 5 percent on my gas pedal cruising but I don’t think it does it when I’m not on the gas
Good video. Can you please list the YEAR of the F150 (and engine) in the description. 2009-2014 models have a different check-valve setup. Thanks.
Thank you so much
Had this issue on my Raptor. It was the vacuum hub actuator. Its seal looked intact, but when u moved your finger around the entire circumstance, there was a 2” split on it.
So if I were to unplug the vacuum line supplying the valve, I assume that would leave the faulty IWE's fully engaged so they would not make this sound anymore? Then I would know for sure that the IWE was the issue.
Could this be an issue in the rear of an all wheel drive 2016 escape? I’m having an issue where when I accelerate while turning there is a grinding noise. It only happens while I’m turning and accelerating at the same time.
I have a 2020 navigator. The dealer removed the vacuum lines and added vacuum caps as per lincolns TSB. Do you think the vacuum caps are a good idea?
Mine runs perfect in 4H. When I switch to 2H, I get the gridning noise from the passenger side only. I unhooked some of the lines and tested with a vacuum guage. At the solenoid, I'm getting 23-24inHg. The driver side, that is working properly is getting 23-24inHg. The passenger side, that is not fully disengaging is only getting 10inHg. Could that be the problem? It seems to be dropping vacuum right after the connection where is splits to go to both sides. 2007 F150 FX4. Any ideas? TIA
Hi there mine just started doing that kind of noise but only when I do a hard turn to the left is this could be the same issue??
Can you drop a link to the part fix for this? Same noise on my 2018
if it's just one iwe making the noise could it still be the solenoid gone bad?
Thank you
Will It be the same sound from rear
What size line is that
My truck does a grinding whine sound only when i let my foot of the gas... i changed solenoid & check valve
does this harm the hubs or any other components in the front drivetrain.
Could this only happen while turning as well?
Is that play and clunk between the hub and the cv normal?
Having this issue with my truck. Jist bought it last April, the people at the shop are saying they can't re-create the noise so they aren't doing anything about it. Spent 2k on a warranty and they're trying to act like they haven't seen or heard of this issue before.
That’s the noise at ~2:00!!! Thank you
I have a popping sound right before im coming to a stop and right when im taking off doesnt do it til i hit a low enough speed any idea? 2005 f150ank u in advance
What if this rattling noise only occurs while steering to the right?
I have that grinding noise but sounds like its comming from the rear and not the front however, new Brakes didnt Help
What if it makes the noise during idle 97 f150 4x4
My truck makes that sound but it is intermittent. could it be the same problem?
I only hear this when I have the wheels turned is that normal?
Can you do one showing how the EIWE works for 21+ models? Or even better do a side by side. I am not exactly clear on how they work and I want to be more informed when they break in ten years. Lol
Weird question would this noise still happen say when you rev the motor nd at say 1500 rpm nd a constant noise if you leave it at 1500 rpm?
Naw. Just as wheel is rotating. The fast the wheel rotates the faster the noise will sound.
Hi, great video. I had this trouble once. The sound was because one IWE is engaged, and the other is NOT engaged. Thus the engaged IWE is spinning the differential and since the other axle is stopped (friction?) the differential is spinning the driveshaft by the spiders at 2x speed. So if you are driving 60mph; the driveshaft (and R&P) are spinning at 120mph. And it's being reverse-driven so it makes a lot of gear-noise (or because the spiders are straight-cut). So how do I know it is this? Because when I switch to 4wd, then the transfer case locks, and all things NOW spin at equal speeds (even though one IWE is not engaged so 4wd drive is not being made) and the noise stops.
im
having this issue right now , thank you for your feed back
I just found one of my hubs was manually locked and the other was in auto. Same symptoms you described. I suspect some foul play from some kids. This video helped to identify the issue. I switched both to auto and all good now.
How bad is it to drive with one engaged? I have been for a lil bit fixing to have it replaced
It just “sounds bad” because the differential spiders are being back-driven (and at double-speed.)
@@t_sodo8745 thanks, it is all normal in 4wd so I was hoping I didn’t cause any front diff/driveshaft damage. Thanks for your time!
Both of my front wheels hubs make that exact sound when I spin them by hand.. what causes that? Could it be both of my IWEs are bad
Did you figure it out yet? I'm working on one at work right now and can help you out..apparently these are very common to fail
If u have both failing chances are its solenoid or a chk valve or a vacumn leak up top before it tees off and a pretty bad leak Rarely hear of both failing at same time but nothing would surprise me with this system i Absolutly hate it
I’m getting this sound only when engaging 4wd. When I switch it back to 2wd the grinding/rumble strip feeling goes away. Do you think I can have a bad iwe that’s not fully engaging?
What was the fix? Im having the same problem now
me too, it only makes noise in 4wd.
2 wheel is fine.
I haven’t found the fix yet. I replaced both iwes and still no luck. I’m just gonna replace both cv axels and hubs see if that does anything.
@@eljefedejefes7469 RCV IWE delete
2005 5.4 here... my make bang noise no grinding only when I switch to 4hi I switch back to 2wd and go back to 4Hi and now working fine I think my actuator not fully angage and desengage sometimes that cut be the actuator or vacuum problem?
this is the exact noise that my 2017 F150 was making. 3 mechanics could not hear it. it was only slightly engaged
Thanks! I'm not so much hearing the noise as feeling it as a grinding through the floorboards at about 30-40mph. My 4x4 switch had broken some time back and I just replaced the switch and tested it and it appeared to operate normally. I guess I need to go through the workshop manual for the IWE and test it out.
If one IWE is engaged, and the other is not, and makes noise in 2wd that noise is from the differential spider gears being driven by the one locked axle. The center driveshaft is then spinning at twice 30-40mph (or 60-80mph) . If when you switch to 4wd, the noise stops, this is it. It clunks real hard goping to 4wd because the spiders spin the driveshaft at double speed.
@@t_sodo8745 I've already checked the proper operation of the IWEs and unfortunately the noise doesn't stop when AWD is engaged. I'm going to have to go through the whole drive train and see if I can find something. I just changed the driver-side wheel hub and bearing because I I was convinced that was the problem. No change. The only thing I noticed when I did the disassembly was that the rotor has a larger than normal rust line and the inner pad looked a little strange. The problem occurs whether I'm braking or not though and it doesn't get worse while breaking. It's driving me crazy!
@@islandtime1402 larger than normal rust line on the rotor does suggest bearing slop and it's strange that replacement did not solve it.
Sounds like an actual wheel bearing issue.
Yikes !! So that can’t be good for the teeth on the hub bearing and or the iwe ! Just Replaced hub bearing passenger side on a 06 f150 4x4. And now I have this noise from the drivers side I don’t get why a new hub on the other side would make it start havibg noise right away Did new check valves a few years ago along with the updated solenoid. Literally first highway trip after the new hub and I have sound. I don’t get it
Humm my 2018 f150 running tire jacked up the axles move and front drive line too
my 2019 started doing this at random intervals on the highway yesterday - off to the service department we go ---
That's what ours is doing - just at highway speeds of 60+. Did the IWE's end up being your problem?
@@ScottDLR its in the shop right now - they cant get it to do it for them.... ill report back.
@@97VobraOwner OK, thanks for the response.
@@97VobraOwner Ive had the same issue. I have been to the dealership twice to try to show the service department tech the noise, and it didn't make the noise for them of course until now its bad enough. There is a TSB (#22-2219) for this issue, and it should "also" be covered under power train warranty if you're under 60K / 5 years. My grip is that I shouldn't have to prove it before they act on it. Customer concern should be enough.
Are the IWE locked or unlocked while in park and not in 4WD.
Locked due to no vacuum
If I disconnect the soliniod. Can I drive this at highway speeds for about 500 miles to get the truck home? 2020 f150.
I've done thousands of miles like this
@DD thanks! I disconnected it back 9 months ago and have not had an issue since. Driven like 40k miles like this. Just crazy that they know it's an issue yet they are still using the same set up. Even the tsb for this states to remove it. So why put it in in the first place.
@@itsallgooddan get the dormant or RCV IWE delete
@@itsallgooddan for saving gas ⛽️
@@itsallgooddan Quick question. So you just disconnect the electrical connector into the little black solenoid by the brake booster correct? Any issues yet? I’m driving from Texas to Michigan soon and might have to disconnect that as a temporary fix or I might just leave it
I change all that and still getting that noise....I change both locking hubs...the solenoid ...the vaccum hose ..
Any update on this? I am having the same problem
EXACTLY THE SAME NOISE!!!
Fucking lifesaver
I rather have the manual shifter
Clearly and incorrectly explained. The wheels are floating till the IWE is engaged. The IWE activation doesNOT cause it to go into 4wheel drive. It merely locks the wheels to the front drive line sk when the TRANSFERCASE engages the 4wheel drive it will give power to the front wheels.
Active IWE only causes the front drive shaft to move which has no power (no 4wheel drive) till the transfercase engages.
What parts are at risk when driving with this issue?