This radiator has the drain in a different place, which means we need to remove the plastic undertray to do a coolant flush. I understand it's cheaper to build it this way and gives us a little more space for cooling fins, but keep that in mind before buying one. If you keep the undertray on your car, coolant flushes will become more difficult.
The drain can't be in the middle because that would require the end tank to go end to end - that's not how a crossflow is laid out. It's not a matter of "cheaper", it's part of the basic design. Coolant flushes are relatively infrequent so we consider the improved performance a good tradeoff. If you are flushing your radiator frequently and this is a problem, you could drill a relatively small hole in the undertray to give you direct access.
I don't think you are going to change the amount of TIME the coolant spends in the radiator by running the tubes sideways (9:00). For a fixed flow rate from the water pump, the average amount of time in the radiator depends on interior volume and nothing else. What will change is the flow speed through the pipes. At high speed, there will be more turbulent flow and turbulent flow will have better heat exchange.
The FM radiator is much thicker than the OEM (stock is 16mm, MSM is 26mm, FM is 36mm) so the interior volume will be much greater, thereby slowing down the flow.
Hello I'm interested in one of these crossflow radiators but I have a jackson racing CAI on my 1.8 and the filter housing looks like it may interfere with the radiator cap location, I'm just wondering if this is something you guys have tested as I have not been able to find any information about it, would I have to do some trimming to the filter housing?
If I want to increase cooling capacity, what's the best path? Crossflow with stock fans or brushless fan on a stock radiator? Then upgrade the stock element if more cooling is needed.
If you're not having trouble maintaining temperature, increasing the cooling ability of the car won't make any difference. We haven't checked weight differences, cooling function is the primary concern here. But it will be lighter than a big multi-core setup that runs considerably higher fluid volume.
In between the factory Mazdaspeed rad and your fm cross flow. I don’t track my Mazdaspeed and it was conservatively tuned with your big enchilada kit by your former employee Ken Hill (pretty sure that was his name) for 195whp/205wtq on 12.5 or 13lb boost with the factory turbo. My budget is limited and this is my daily and only vehicle. Is this true that buying a new oem Mazdaspeed radiator would be 15 years old and brittle? Also what specifically needs doing to fit your cross flow in my 2005 MSM with your big enchilada kit installed? My other concern was with this not being a track car, getting up to temps and the excess wear from it taking longer to reach optimal temps. I would assume it would be best to run my oem radiator cap? Do you still recommend the cross flow for my application? I have winter temps to summer temps to deal with on a regular basis. I do use the power hitting top boost on a regular basis, but again not usually for extended periods of time. I am not trying to do the minimum here, but the best for my application. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I may call you guys tomorrow if I don’t hear back! Thanks!
Please contact our customer support team directly. They will be happy to talk you through the benefits of our crossflow and help you with any concerns you have for you Mazdaspeed. You can call 970-464-5600 8-5 Mountain time, or drop them an email at support@flyinmiata.com. Thanks!
Love the informative videos you guys are putting out! Mabey it would be a fun video to look at al the different possible engine swap options for the na/nb miata’s? Some information on what has been done the different roadblocks you’ll likely hit for each swap and so on.
Neat, you guys offer an exhaust heat shield. I removed the carpet in my 90' with rb header and man I thought my shoe was gunna melt driving in the summer
If you aren't experiencing any issues and don't plan on tracking the car, you are probably fine with the stock radiator, but keep an eye on the plastic. Once they get to a certain age and start to change color, they are prone to fail. The aluminum radiators like our crossflow are more efficient and last longer than the stock plastic units.
New site is ok, I get that it's faster but no more MSM section :( , too many nb variants to only have one group IMO. (Sorry for ranting, I know it wasn't your call)
It was very much our call. The majority of MSM components are the same as NB components. We did separate the MSM-specific parts into their own section under the Powertrain section, and you can also specify MSM when you're searching. Too many categories make it difficult to navigate and maintain.
My 03 Gauge stays dead center from about 165f-240f. It may be getting warmer than you think. Assuming you have decent quality fluids, I wouldn't worry about it. Before I had my cooling system dialed in, I'd only do a cool down lap if it reached the high 230's.
The car will not "blow a gasket" before the stock gauge moves. Basically, if it starts to move then the car is having trouble coping and it's time to take some sort of action. You do have most of the sweep of the gauge before you're in any sort of trouble.
Unfortunately, in the year and a half since this video was shot, the price of materials has gone up considerably and that forced a price increase in the radiator. We do our best to avoid increases whenever possible, but it's not aways possible.
This radiator has the drain in a different place, which means we need to remove the plastic undertray to do a coolant flush.
I understand it's cheaper to build it this way and gives us a little more space for cooling fins, but keep that in mind before buying one. If you keep the undertray on your car, coolant flushes will become more difficult.
The drain can't be in the middle because that would require the end tank to go end to end - that's not how a crossflow is laid out. It's not a matter of "cheaper", it's part of the basic design. Coolant flushes are relatively infrequent so we consider the improved performance a good tradeoff. If you are flushing your radiator frequently and this is a problem, you could drill a relatively small hole in the undertray to give you direct access.
Thanks Keith for the the amazing update! The Cre8tiveGarage team thanks you and the team for getting our products to the door! Keep it up guys!
I don't think you are going to change the amount of TIME the coolant spends in the radiator by running the tubes sideways (9:00). For a fixed flow rate from the water pump, the average amount of time in the radiator depends on interior volume and nothing else.
What will change is the flow speed through the pipes. At high speed, there will be more turbulent flow and turbulent flow will have better heat exchange.
The FM radiator is much thicker than the OEM (stock is 16mm, MSM is 26mm, FM is 36mm) so the interior volume will be much greater, thereby slowing down the flow.
Hello I'm interested in one of these crossflow radiators but I have a jackson racing CAI on my 1.8 and the filter housing looks like it may interfere with the radiator cap location, I'm just wondering if this is something you guys have tested as I have not been able to find any information about it, would I have to do some trimming to the filter housing?
Please reach out to our customer support team directly. They might be able to give you more information than we can here on TH-cam. Thanks!
If I want to increase cooling capacity, what's the best path? Crossflow with stock fans or brushless fan on a stock radiator? Then upgrade the stock element if more cooling is needed.
Generally, you'll start with the radiator. Especially if you have an early Miata, that stock rad is not aging well.
Could you please elaborate on the specs for the temp sensor connection and does FM sell a sensor that fits it?
That was an error - the joy of live video. It was corrected later in the video.
Any benefits to running a race radiator on a daily driver (ND)? Any weight difference vs OEM including coolant?
If you're not having trouble maintaining temperature, increasing the cooling ability of the car won't make any difference. We haven't checked weight differences, cooling function is the primary concern here. But it will be lighter than a big multi-core setup that runs considerably higher fluid volume.
In between the factory Mazdaspeed rad and your fm cross flow. I don’t track my Mazdaspeed and it was conservatively tuned with your big enchilada kit by your former employee Ken Hill (pretty sure that was his name) for 195whp/205wtq on 12.5 or 13lb boost with the factory turbo. My budget is limited and this is my daily and only vehicle. Is this true that buying a new oem Mazdaspeed radiator would be 15 years old and brittle? Also what specifically needs doing to fit your cross flow in my 2005 MSM with your big enchilada kit installed? My other concern was with this not being a track car, getting up to temps and the excess wear from it taking longer to reach optimal temps. I would assume it would be best to run my oem radiator cap? Do you still recommend the cross flow for my application? I have winter temps to summer temps to deal with on a regular basis. I do use the power hitting top boost on a regular basis, but again not usually for extended periods of time. I am not trying to do the minimum here, but the best for my application. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I may call you guys tomorrow if I don’t hear back! Thanks!
Please contact our customer support team directly. They will be happy to talk you through the benefits of our crossflow and help you with any concerns you have for you Mazdaspeed.
You can call 970-464-5600 8-5 Mountain time, or drop them an email at support@flyinmiata.com.
Thanks!
Can you use the Stock fans with this?
I just need the Stock Shroud until I can bite on the Flyin Miata stage 3 fans.
Love the informative videos you guys are putting out! Mabey it would be a fun video to look at al the different possible engine swap options for the na/nb miata’s? Some information on what has been done the different roadblocks you’ll likely hit for each swap and so on.
That video would be approximately a week long!
Hi, i’m thinking to purchase the FM Miata single pass Mazda ND Radiator but i’m wondering how much different does it make compare to OEM?
Neat, you guys offer an exhaust heat shield. I removed the carpet in my 90' with rb header and man I thought my shoe was gunna melt driving in the summer
Any point in replacing the stock radiator on an NB that's only driven only on the street? Non boosted bone stock engine.
If you aren't experiencing any issues and don't plan on tracking the car, you are probably fine with the stock radiator, but keep an eye on the plastic. Once they get to a certain age and start to change color, they are prone to fail. The aluminum radiators like our crossflow are more efficient and last longer than the stock plastic units.
Any efficiency gains over your older crossflow? Mine is from 2015 or 2016, was before the built in temp sensor bung.
Other than the fact that it's easier to fill and drain, not really.
Does it fit in an automatic na miata?
It does not have the transmission oil cooler built in, so you'd have to install a secondary cooler for the trans. Otherwise, yes.
Keith, how do you keep so cool? 😎
Nice. My miata is sitting next to my 76 Cadillac sixty special. Car is so small compared to it haha
New site is ok, I get that it's faster but no more MSM section :( , too many nb variants to only have one group IMO. (Sorry for ranting, I know it wasn't your call)
Jesse Zander, there is a Mazdaspeed specific section. Look at the Menu section.
It was very much our call. The majority of MSM components are the same as NB components. We did separate the MSM-specific parts into their own section under the Powertrain section, and you can also specify MSM when you're searching. Too many categories make it difficult to navigate and maintain.
For the ND, your radiator is listed as single pass, but then in then in the description it says triple pass. Which is it?
It's a single, we have an error in the website. Thanks for pointing that out.
My 2004 Mazdaspeed w116,000 miles never overheats. Gauge stays in the center in 100 degree heat under hard drives for 200 mile trip.
My 03 Gauge stays dead center from about 165f-240f. It may be getting warmer than you think. Assuming you have decent quality fluids, I wouldn't worry about it. Before I had my cooling system dialed in, I'd only do a cool down lap if it reached the high 230's.
Wait, the temp gauge actually works on the MSM?
Edit: Removed comment as I spoke out of assumption rather than facts.
The car will not "blow a gasket" before the stock gauge moves. Basically, if it starts to move then the car is having trouble coping and it's time to take some sort of action. You do have most of the sweep of the gauge before you're in any sort of trouble.
$349? It's $399 now.
Unfortunately, in the year and a half since this video was shot, the price of materials has gone up considerably and that forced a price increase in the radiator. We do our best to avoid increases whenever possible, but it's not aways possible.
$399? It's $449 now.