I would suggest this to anyone that is going to have their engine out. I would love to put one on my car, but don't think it is worth the effort since I already have your crossflow, and stage one kit. If I have to have the engine out in the future I will get one. On the other hand I did purchase one of these for my sons car since we had to have his engine out to rebuild, just glad you are offering the upright adapter hose separately as we are going with a stock replacement to stay on budget, and this will make routing much easier. We are going with ITBs on my sons car as well so I think the question of heat transfer, I think would be neglegable at most, and if we were concerned about it you could always make a heat shelf to mount under the ITBs and over the hose.
Brandon you spoke the truth when you said you don't have to have it. The best thing you can do is get rid of that plastic rad and get an aluminum one and you solve a lot of your problems right there
The biggest problem with the stock rad is the brittleness of the end tanks over time. Second biggest is the fact that it’s not a crossflow. Simply banging a generic aluminum radiator in the car won’t necessarily solve any overheating problems, alas - and it definitely won’t improve coolant flow through the engine. But a good rad is required, no question.
FYI the Gates #22436 coolant hose fits the miata reroute perfectly for a NA setup just gotta trim a little bit off on the radiator end of the hose. very cheap $15 dollar molded hose.
Gates hose also fits NB with stock upright radiator. I have the Gates hose on my 2001 with the FM reroute. It’s worth mentioning that the Gates is a rubber hose, where the reroute comes with a silicone hose and I believe the adapter hose in this video is also silicone.
My reroute hose sits right next to some fuel lines by the intake manifold (comes within 2-3mm of the line). Should I be worried about it heating up the fuel? (95 NA8)
It would be better if you could keep it further away but packaging can be difficult. I doubt you'll see any performance issues unless you're running a high HP build. Reflective tape is pretty easy to use if you don't mind the aesthetics and can't move the radiator hose further away.
@@FlyinMiataVideothis may be a stupid question, but would this possibly increase the likelyhood of fuel igniting in the lines or increasing fuel line pressure, causing a fuel leak?
@@LifeWorthEditing I get where you're coming from, but realistically, no. The engine bay is pretty warm already and the hose is pretty well insulated, so much so you can usually grab it by hand at operating temperature and not burn yourself. It simply won't make that large of a difference, if any, to fuel temps.
It works with our old Big Spark kit and other coil kits we've seen, but we haven't tested every kit on the market. It will probably work with the supercharger kit, but we haven't had one in the shop to test it. You might have to use a longer hose to get around the intake. Reach out to our customer support team with a few pics and I'm sure they could give you a better answer and/or suggestions to make it work.
We've tried to make these as easy as possible for everyone, but it's hard to predict every possible configuration people have. Hopefully the new hose kits and brackets make them more appealing to more people!
So I got a reroute kit and also deleted to front thermostat neck completely and not I have a extra hose on the passenger side of engine on the exit that’s supposed to go to the neck can I just block that off or is it needed?
You still need it. Just grab yourself a couple feet of hose and route the hose coming from your throttle body to the inlet on your water pump mixer housing. Shoot us an email (support@flyinmiata.com) if you need more info.
For the ITB guy, why are you pulling hot engine bay air on purpose? Build an intake that directs cooler air into your ITBs. Then you can stop worrying about a radiator hose passing in front of them…
Can you tell me what the color (code) of the NB w/tan top in the background is? Wrap or custom paint? I'd like to see it in sunlight - is it outside in any shop or event photos? Thanks
That car belongs to Ethan in our customer support department. It's a custom grey paint (Paint code s4729), not a wrap, and it currently doesn't run, so we don't have any pictures outside at the moment. Feel free to give them a call or drop them an email at support@flyinmiata.com if you want more details :)
We're a big fan of preventative maintenance, and evening out the cylinder temperatures with a reroute should help, but we haven't done any definitive long term testing.
We didn't change or adjust any of the head bolts. For more details on the install, we do have a full installation video on our channel, and you can access the written instructions here: s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/instructions.flyinmiata/cooling/FM%20coolant%20reroute_09-60020.pdf
Why not make a 3D printed timing cover plate for those people that want to remove the water neck? Sell it as an option like the hose mount. It seems that would be pretty simple and not too expensive to produce.
They already do, that is the optional part he was talking about. It's not a big deal, it just closes up the hole in the timing cover that is left if you remove the neck.
Could you make it an option to swap the 01-05 headgasket for the earlier version in your headgasket and engine rebuild kits? I'm looking at ordering the headgasket kit for my 01 with your reroute, but not sure I want the kit vs piecing one together to get the earlier gasket.
Still has same purpose n has no diverse affects i have mine moved to a inline and does great most days i dont see much over 170 hardly ever has to even open (its a 190 thermostat)
Moving the thermostat to the back of the engine makes a big difference with flow and evening out the cylinder temperatures, but since it's so close to the head, keeps the thermostat completely functional. If you have time, check out Mike's reroute theory video for more info. th-cam.com/video/rVgCxPPuVHI/w-d-xo.html
The real reason for the coolant reroute is to redirect the route of coolant in the head so that all the cylinders cool more evenly, leading to better efficiency and longer engine life.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
I would suggest this to anyone that is going to have their engine out. I would love to put one on my car, but don't think it is worth the effort since I already have your crossflow, and stage one kit. If I have to have the engine out in the future I will get one. On the other hand I did purchase one of these for my sons car since we had to have his engine out to rebuild, just glad you are offering the upright adapter hose separately as we are going with a stock replacement to stay on budget, and this will make routing much easier. We are going with ITBs on my sons car as well so I think the question of heat transfer, I think would be neglegable at most, and if we were concerned about it you could always make a heat shelf to mount under the ITBs and over the hose.
Brandon you spoke the truth when you said you don't have to have it. The best thing you can do is get rid of that plastic rad and get an aluminum one and you solve a lot of your problems right there
The biggest problem with the stock rad is the brittleness of the end tanks over time. Second biggest is the fact that it’s not a crossflow. Simply banging a generic aluminum radiator in the car won’t necessarily solve any overheating problems, alas - and it definitely won’t improve coolant flow through the engine.
But a good rad is required, no question.
Thanks, Brandon!
:)
Finally, always wondered why it was a thing!
We've got a full video of "Reroute Theory" hosted by Mike if you need more info on the science behind it :)
th-cam.com/video/rVgCxPPuVHI/w-d-xo.html
FYI the Gates #22436 coolant hose fits the miata reroute perfectly for a NA setup just gotta trim a little bit off on the radiator end of the hose. very cheap $15 dollar molded hose.
Gates hose also fits NB with stock upright radiator. I have the Gates hose on my 2001 with the FM reroute. It’s worth mentioning that the Gates is a rubber hose, where the reroute comes with a silicone hose and I believe the adapter hose in this video is also silicone.
I have a reroute already but deff be interested in the brackets 😊 ps a suburban radiator hose is almost perfext shape for reroute its what i use 😉
All the new components are sold separately on our website, so feel free to go grab just the bracket! :)
i would prefer a rubber hose over silicone so that is good to know
Thank you for your honest answer concerning the 90 HP Babies 👶 ❤
Really easy to install while changing the clutch 🤷🏻♂️
Yeah, you get a good square shot at it from down there.
My reroute hose sits right next to some fuel lines by the intake manifold (comes within 2-3mm of the line). Should I be worried about it heating up the fuel? (95 NA8)
It would be better if you could keep it further away but packaging can be difficult. I doubt you'll see any performance issues unless you're running a high HP build. Reflective tape is pretty easy to use if you don't mind the aesthetics and can't move the radiator hose further away.
@@FlyinMiataVideothis may be a stupid question, but would this possibly increase the likelyhood of fuel igniting in the lines or increasing fuel line pressure, causing a fuel leak?
@@LifeWorthEditing I get where you're coming from, but realistically, no.
The engine bay is pretty warm already and the hose is pretty well insulated, so much so you can usually grab it by hand at operating temperature and not burn yourself. It simply won't make that large of a difference, if any, to fuel temps.
@@FlyinMiataVideosounds good. Thanks for the help! Keep up the great work guys.
How about with LS coil kit and Fastforward Supercharger on the intake manifold. Will it work?
It works with our old Big Spark kit and other coil kits we've seen, but we haven't tested every kit on the market. It will probably work with the supercharger kit, but we haven't had one in the shop to test it. You might have to use a longer hose to get around the intake. Reach out to our customer support team with a few pics and I'm sure they could give you a better answer and/or suggestions to make it work.
Wow I was just running into this issue too
Cause I didn't buy the cross flow
I ended up getting a dayco 71519 hose
And a 1.25 OD connector piece from Amazon
17 for hose 10 for the connector
We've tried to make these as easy as possible for everyone, but it's hard to predict every possible configuration people have. Hopefully the new hose kits and brackets make them more appealing to more people!
So I got a reroute kit and also deleted to front thermostat neck completely and not I have a extra hose on the passenger side of engine on the exit that’s supposed to go to the neck can I just block that off or is it needed?
You still need it. Just grab yourself a couple feet of hose and route the hose coming from your throttle body to the inlet on your water pump mixer housing. Shoot us an email (support@flyinmiata.com) if you need more info.
Would a cobalt reroute hose fit on this kit.
I'm surprised you guys don't have a molded hose for this kit.
We've never tested the cobalt hose, sorry.
For the ITB guy, why are you pulling hot engine bay air on purpose?
Build an intake that directs cooler air into your ITBs. Then you can stop worrying about a radiator hose passing in front of them…
What style reroute would you say is “scary” as stated in the video. I hope the one I have isn’t one of the scary ones lol
Can you tell me what the color (code) of the NB w/tan top in the background is? Wrap or custom paint? I'd like to see it in sunlight - is it outside in any shop or event photos?
Thanks
That car belongs to Ethan in our customer support department. It's a custom grey paint (Paint code s4729), not a wrap, and it currently doesn't run, so we don't have any pictures outside at the moment. Feel free to give them a call or drop them an email at support@flyinmiata.com if you want more details :)
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks. Couldn't tell if it was more gray or more green, love to see some photos of it outside sometime.
I wouldn't be surprised if a reroute kit on a daily driver would help prevent a blown head gasket in the long-term.
We're a big fan of preventative maintenance, and evening out the cylinder temperatures with a reroute should help, but we haven't done any definitive long term testing.
Do torque settings of had change
We didn't change or adjust any of the head bolts. For more details on the install, we do have a full installation video on our channel, and you can access the written instructions here:
s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/instructions.flyinmiata/cooling/FM%20coolant%20reroute_09-60020.pdf
How much of a pita is the oil filter to get with this hose in the way?
Quote of the day "the engine bay is a hot place." Classic. 😂
It makes it tight but not untouchable
One more thing to reach around, but not impossible.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Wouldnt the oil filter relocation fix this.
Why not make a 3D printed timing cover plate for those people that want to remove the water neck? Sell it as an option like the hose mount. It seems that would be pretty simple and not too expensive to produce.
They already do, that is the optional part he was talking about. It's not a big deal, it just closes up the hole in the timing cover that is left if you remove the neck.
Renn Waffen sells one
Could you make it an option to swap the 01-05 headgasket for the earlier version in your headgasket and engine rebuild kits? I'm looking at ordering the headgasket kit for my 01 with your reroute, but not sure I want the kit vs piecing one together to get the earlier gasket.
Also glad you guys came out with the reroute hose bracket, the hose routing was my only complaint on the reroute kit
If you have time, send this suggestion to our customer support team at support@flyinmiata.com . Thanks!
It's definitely a big improvement!
How is moving the thermostat not a big difference?
Still has same purpose n has no diverse affects i have mine moved to a inline and does great most days i dont see much over 170 hardly ever has to even open (its a 190 thermostat)
Moving the thermostat to the back of the engine makes a big difference with flow and evening out the cylinder temperatures, but since it's so close to the head, keeps the thermostat completely functional. If you have time, check out Mike's reroute theory video for more info.
th-cam.com/video/rVgCxPPuVHI/w-d-xo.html
Looks expensive to just hook a radiator hose to the back of the engine? Just saying. Thank you though. Thumbs up!
The real reason for the coolant reroute is to redirect the route of coolant in the head so that all the cylinders cool more evenly, leading to better efficiency and longer engine life.
Does it concern 1.6 or 1.8 engine?
Both.