If you’re a bigger driver with the seat back then there isn’t going to be room to recline anyways. If you want aftermarket seats and you don’t want your head to tough the top you’ll need fixed back seats with fixed brackets.
The NC uses a pressurized cooling system, with an overflow tank made of plastic that gets brittle over time. All of the original tanks out there have either let go, or are about to. Once they break… catastrophic engine failure. It’s really shocking to me that this was not covered.
@@youcanrunnaked Yup! If it's yellow, change that sucker before it leaves you walking or costs you big bucks! Great opportunity to time change the thermostat and coolant flush in one go. (2007 NC, 51k miles) ((wifes barbie mobile))
I've replaced my slave cylinder 3 times within 40k. Steel braided cable solved most issues. The basic rubber one breaks down and destroys your entire clutch hydraulic system
Hi Jeremy, On time stamp 13.00 Your explaining the drive shaft. Can you tell me more detail about that fuel regulator that is showed in the video. Thank you
Great video and thanks for the info at 16:06, I recently got a NB made in April 98 and the previous owner had all the maintenance records, and I was really surprised to see a "new engine" recipt, and they wrote on it "No oil pressure", thanks for solving that mystery for me haha.
Cool video, good advice. Glad I have a 2009 NC Facelift 2.0 Sport ragtop. It's 12 years old with about 35 000 miles, fine-weather-only and a very refined car. I had an NA and spent a small fortune adding stuff that is standard on the NC. Now fitted with short-throw shift, Panasonic 2-DIN AVIC Naviceiver, LED lighting and much more.
If I had to take a shot for every maintenance item mentioned that I’ve already had to do on my NA6 I’d be in the hospital right now with alcohol poisoning 😂 also the main relay is no joke, I nearly missed my calc 2 final on my last day of college because one of those blew out. Maybe I’m a masochist but I find constantly doing small things on my car therapeutic, and hopefully it will last another generation if I keep taking care of it that way 🤞
30:16 - clutch life... I've been driving and working on MGs - with the infamous carbon throw out bearing - for 55 years. Early on, I had to replace a clutch on a 63 MGB, and because I was ignorant to the rule of never touching the clutch except taking off from a stop or shifting gears (non-synchro trans...) I had to re-replace the throw out bearing after just a couple thousand miles because I was holding the clutch pedal in while starting and at every stop, and while coasting. And, llike the Miata, they are no fun. After that, I changed my driving habits, and learned the art of clutch-less shifting. Twenty years ago this month, I bought my first Miata - with 65,000 miles, and the owner had just replaced the clutch. It now has 246,000 on the odo - clutch release and engage pedal heights haven't moved more than a couple mm' and it never slips. I drilled a hole in the bell housing and threaded in a borescope - the disc is still in good condition after 181,000 miles. I washed it down with bulk brakekleen in a pressure tank, and it still feels freshly broken in...
As a long term NA8 turbo owner I would say based on just replacing them the original coolant hoses for the turbo....mine were 20 years old and hard as a rock FM sells new silicone replacements and they are far better. Also the oil drain hose on turbo will need replacement as well. Again I just upgraded to the FM turbo drain hard line, which is great but still the final attachment section is still rubber and will need periodic replacement.
Good information, but if my 2001 LS has has almost any of these problems it would have to go. It has 77,000 miles has been maintained and runs great so I will keep it for now.
Very interesting about crank angle sensors causing small misfires that kill the catalytic converter., I have been replacing catalytic converters frequently to meet California emissions rules. Now that the price of CARB cats approaches $1k, finding the cause of failure is getting more interesting. CAS Sensors are too expensive to replace on speculation. I have an oscilloscope. I need to test mine, and look for a weak or irregular signal.
Awesome comprehensive list.. Which manual do you recommend for a semi competent home mechanic? I’ve done brake discs, auxiliary belts, coolant flush,diff oil changes etc on NA but now looking for the NB2 VVT? Plan on getting one that’s in good shape it’s not my main hobby! Thanks for the info
If you can get a set of the official Mazda service manuals, that would be the most complete info out there. Hanes or some of the others have some good info, but forums and online groups can also be a good source of information. We'd also recommend Keith Tanner's "MX-5 Performance Projects" and "How to Build a High Performance MX-5" books, but we might be a little bit bias there. :)
Man apart from being being a totally brilliant review (thanks) I was really hoping you would address that hugely annoying deceleration gearbox buzz in the NAs. No one online has pinpointed a cause or a clear solution. I’ve tried heavier viscosity oil (very slight improvement), Redline MT90 (very slight improvement), various ppf realignments (either worse or same) ... what is the cause; what is the fix?? The definitive analysis would be gold😜 Gearbox rebuild kit?? Extension housing bushing?? Main input or output bearing?? So frustrating. Pple say get another box. All boxes are long in the tooth now and many report changeover box with same issue ... 😬
Gearbox noise is usually associated with wear, especially the synchros in earlier transmissions. If the buzz is caused by vibrations, you might need to check and replace your engine and diff mounts. Feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly if you want to discuss this. You can call 970-464-5600 M-F 8-5 Mountain time, or drop us an email at support@flyinmiata.com. :)
Well, my FC RX7 had a mild performance clutch installed from the last owner + car sat for quite a while. Guess what? the slave clutch gave out in less than 2000km. A good additional footnote for anyone buying an older car that had sat for some time.
My heater hose blew out for that exact reason and yes it was while driving back from visiting family out of state for Christmas. The shop that did the work replacing the hose (in the middle of nowhere) then mangled the copper inlet pipe getting to it. I only found out because it started to leak. Replaced with oem hoses and 2 clamps and the use of a swagging tool and now it is solid. But all because that cam o ring. Question: Are the oem motor mounts on a '05 mazdaspeed upgraded from other non turbo Miatas?
Often overlooked the the MSM Mazdaspeed Miata: 36:00 On the MSM Mazdaspeed: Breather connector Part# 15725JF Turbo Drain pipe and gaskets Throttle body inlet pipe The connector grounded on the intake manifold PCV Valve BOG Solenoid Check Valve CAM CAS CAP - the one on back of the engine that leaks. There is a coolant 90degree coolant hose by the turbo that fails Gasket on the turbo up pipe.
I was hoping to find it in this video but no luck. In my imported Japanese MX5 (Eunos Roadster) 1.8L with an automatic transmission, I keep eventually having the "hold" light flash and not turn off with the switch on the gearstick like it should. So it prevents the car from going into overdrive and sometimes leads me to run too high rpm. I've tried various sensor replacement, valve/seal replacement, oil replacements, etc but nothing has ever kept it off for more than a few days. Have you ever encountered this due to lack of maintenance on anything specific?
Does the catch can fit the ND ever need to be removed and deep cleaned since you can't access the sludge at the bottom like the other style of catch cans for the earlier models?
We'd recommend taking it apart for cleaning, if needed. It's a fairly easy unit to remove and take apart for cleaning, and shouldn't have to be done very often.
Not that we're aware of but it's always best to ask your local dealer about it first. If they're happy, you shouldn't have any issue if a warrant claim is brought up in the future.
1. I recently purchased (from FM - I'm local in GJ) all the suspension bushings and motor mounts for my 95'. What a difference! 2. Does anyone have suggestions for the drop in idle RPMs when I come to a stop? Happens whether I'm in neutral, have the clutch in, AC on or not. It drops to like 400 RPMs. The other question is I have a small crack in the rear plastic window. The top is perfect otherwise. Is there any way to replace either the clear plastic window or replace the zip-in rear top panel? I know this video is 7 mos old but I appreciate any responses.
You don't say what year your car is, but the NA did have a tendency to idle droop that can be adjusted out with the throttle bypass screw. That plastic window question indicates that you're probably in an NA. For rear window repair, go to an upholstery shop and they should be able to help. This sort of work is done on boats all the time. The stitching might not be OE quality.
What all have you guys gotten into having to do as far as "restoring" the wiring to the main relays? I haven't taken a look at mine, but I assume those probably aren't simple blade connectors if you have to depin and replace the end of the wire?
We offer a relay kit from Trackspeed that gets rid of a big part of the load that is killing the main relays. Some Deoxit would be a good idea as well as preventative maintenance.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Interesting! That gives me a couple more things to look into. Thank you! Reminds me of the electrical issues in the 240Z all over again. Haha Aging wires are aging wires I suppose!
Hi, i've got a 1.6 1999 NB and my brakes or something else is squeaking when I turn my wheels when I start in the morning.. even when I'm not on the brakes. I really don't know why this is happening because my discs and pads look good
If you're not moving forward or back, it's not the brakes. It's something that's moving, like the steering rack, the ball joints, the tie rods or the power steering system.
I honestly learned, what might really be wrong with my Honda here, reversing what an idiot mechanic I brought my vehicle too, told me. I am almost feeling like he didn't even look at my vehical and is a total scumbag moron! I wish I had cellpics of him doing "the work" to prove what he did, along with my future refund, which I will get!
Commonly overlooked maintenance items on a miata... LMFAO 🤣 🤣 🤣. I been trying to find a GOOD one for I say 12 years now and it's always something. Cars top dollar an. If it's a kid: the car is these abused to hell. Driven like a mustang when it's a 1.6 or 1.8. If it's a grown man: 0 maintenance has been done do to. It's a weekend car and Mazda's last forever. SMH it's these sad how Americans don't take care of there stuff but when it comes to time to sell the car. KBB and no low ball offers lol
@@potatospud1697 I have seen Miata's with 0 maintenance in 4 years do to it's a weekend car. These because it's a "Miata" doesn't mean you should abuse it.
If you've been looking to buy one for 12 years and haven't been satisfied with anything available, you might need to adjust your expectations. Most people do not perfectly maintain their cars. These cars are generally rock solid reliable and don't usually need an exhaustive list of parts being replaced. You should expect to need to do maintenance on one of these cars though, just like any other car. Just find one that isn't in shitbox condition, buy it, and deal with whatever maintenance your particular car may need yourself. It sounds like the owners you want to buy from are the kind that don't sell their Miata/s.
@@kipp4805 Yeah I know it's a me problem SMH. It's not a problem with people asking to much for a car that wasn't ever taken care of or worth the price whatsoever. Also I'm trying to find a automatic not a Manual do to I these what'd something to cruise in on nice days.
hmmm every grown man i know that drives a miata is top notch on their maint items, and have done tasteful beneficial mods....maybe look to your local miata club
Love the one-take format of these videos. Really demonstrates the wealth of knowledge these guys have
Thank you! If you ever have any good ideas for topics you'd like to see, let us know!
Not a matenace item but can you do a video on aftermarket seats that fit a NA that also recline and fit a bigger driver thanks in advance
Yes!
This please!
If you’re a bigger driver with the seat back then there isn’t going to be room to recline anyways. If you want aftermarket seats and you don’t want your head to tough the top you’ll need fixed back seats with fixed brackets.
It's a good question, most seats will impinge on the trans tunnel at the front and the door panel at the shoulder
Coolant overflow tank, which is part of the pressurized cooling system, is now a maintenance item. Either a new one or an aluminum one.
Surprised they left this out of the NC.
The NC uses a pressurized cooling system, with an overflow tank made of plastic that gets brittle over time. All of the original tanks out there have either let go, or are about to. Once they break… catastrophic engine failure. It’s really shocking to me that this was not covered.
@@youcanrunnaked Yup! If it's yellow, change that sucker before it leaves you walking or costs you big bucks! Great opportunity to time change the thermostat and coolant flush in one go. (2007 NC, 51k miles) ((wifes barbie mobile))
Well done FM this was quite detailed, accurate, and certainly a concise list of common but not so well known issues.
This'll be one of the very few -- maybe only -- video that I ever watch more than once. Two thumbs way up!!
As an ND owner I didnt know about the value in the oil catch can, thank you!
Yes , the Verus Engineering AOS is the best one out there. Really well made. It took some time to install but worth it.
Thanks for these videos very helpful 😊
Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate the info on the radiator. I bought a very low mileage ‘96 NA (32K miles) last year. Will be budgeting for a radiator ASAP
Glad we could help!
Replace the overflow tank also. Preferably with a metal one.
Excellent commentary, that's the way we have always done it. Not getting caught in the weeds
Glad you enjoyed it
NB Often overlooked items that apply to me:
6:45 Main Relay
8:15 Slave Cyl /steel braided clutch hose
.
I've replaced my slave cylinder 3 times within 40k. Steel braided cable solved most issues. The basic rubber one breaks down and destroys your entire clutch hydraulic system
Maintennance item should also be removing the annoying heat shields that rattles😂
I definitely have oil spots in the driveway; so main seals are on my list
Hi Jeremy, On time stamp 13.00 Your explaining the drive shaft. Can you tell me more detail about that fuel regulator that is showed in the video. Thank you
Great video and thanks for the info at 16:06, I recently got a NB made in April 98 and the previous owner had all the maintenance records, and I was really surprised to see a "new engine" recipt, and they wrote on it "No oil pressure", thanks for solving that mystery for me haha.
@Millermacs You are welcome - sounds like your Miata was one of the ones that was affected, then!
Very Happy NC 2012 owner!!
I bought a level 3 Thornton chip, $85, for my 06 MIATA with 6 speed AT. Just plug it in and, WOW!!! Bob
very informative as I have a standard NA and stage 2 BBR NC. Thanks for sharing your Knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Cool video, good advice. Glad I have a 2009 NC Facelift 2.0 Sport ragtop. It's 12 years old with about 35 000 miles, fine-weather-only and a very refined car. I had an NA and spent a small fortune adding stuff that is standard on the NC. Now fitted with short-throw shift, Panasonic 2-DIN AVIC Naviceiver, LED lighting and much more.
Yeah but no pop-ups ;)
If I had to take a shot for every maintenance item mentioned that I’ve already had to do on my NA6 I’d be in the hospital right now with alcohol poisoning 😂 also the main relay is no joke, I nearly missed my calc 2 final on my last day of college because one of those blew out. Maybe I’m a masochist but I find constantly doing small things on my car therapeutic, and hopefully it will last another generation if I keep taking care of it that way 🤞
30:16 - clutch life... I've been driving and working on MGs - with the infamous carbon throw out bearing - for 55 years. Early on, I had to replace a clutch on a 63 MGB, and because I was ignorant to the rule of never touching the clutch except taking off from a stop or shifting gears (non-synchro trans...) I had to re-replace the throw out bearing after just a couple thousand miles because I was holding the clutch pedal in while starting and at every stop, and while coasting. And, llike the Miata, they are no fun. After that, I changed my driving habits, and learned the art of clutch-less shifting. Twenty years ago this month, I bought my first Miata - with 65,000 miles, and the owner had just replaced the clutch. It now has 246,000 on the odo - clutch release and engage pedal heights haven't moved more than a couple mm' and it never slips. I drilled a hole in the bell housing and threaded in a borescope - the disc is still in good condition after 181,000 miles. I washed it down with bulk brakekleen in a pressure tank, and it still feels freshly broken in...
excellent informative video. a spare fuel pump for NB1 isnt a bad thing to have on hand either
The good news is, those aren't terribly difficult to change!
As a long term NA8 turbo owner I would say based on just replacing them the original coolant hoses for the turbo....mine were 20 years old and hard as a rock FM sells new silicone replacements and they are far better. Also the oil drain hose on turbo will need replacement as well. Again I just upgraded to the FM turbo drain hard line, which is great but still the final attachment section is still rubber and will need periodic replacement.
Good video. Lots of information.
Thanks! 👍
Thank you. Very informative.
Hope it was helpful!
Good information, but if my 2001 LS has has almost any of these problems it would have to go. It has 77,000 miles has been maintained and runs great so I will keep it for now.
As an ND2 owner, I only needed to watch 2 minutes of the video 🤪
Very interesting about crank angle sensors causing small misfires that kill the catalytic converter., I have been replacing catalytic converters frequently to meet California emissions rules. Now that the price of CARB cats approaches $1k, finding the cause of failure is getting more interesting. CAS Sensors are too expensive to replace on speculation. I have an oscilloscope. I need to test mine, and look for a weak or irregular signal.
Awesome comprehensive list.. Which manual do you recommend for a semi competent home mechanic? I’ve done brake discs, auxiliary belts, coolant flush,diff oil changes etc on NA but now looking for the NB2 VVT? Plan on getting one that’s in good shape it’s not my main hobby! Thanks for the info
If you can get a set of the official Mazda service manuals, that would be the most complete info out there. Hanes or some of the others have some good info, but forums and online groups can also be a good source of information. We'd also recommend Keith Tanner's "MX-5 Performance Projects" and "How to Build a High Performance MX-5" books, but we might be a little bit bias there. :)
@@FlyinMiataVideo thank you so much !!😊
Man apart from being being a totally brilliant review (thanks) I was really hoping you would address that hugely annoying deceleration gearbox buzz in the NAs. No one online has pinpointed a cause or a clear solution. I’ve tried heavier viscosity oil (very slight improvement), Redline MT90 (very slight improvement), various ppf realignments (either worse or same) ... what is the cause; what is the fix?? The definitive analysis would be gold😜 Gearbox rebuild kit?? Extension housing bushing?? Main input or output bearing?? So frustrating. Pple say get another box. All boxes are long in the tooth now and many report changeover box with same issue ... 😬
Gearbox noise is usually associated with wear, especially the synchros in earlier transmissions. If the buzz is caused by vibrations, you might need to check and replace your engine and diff mounts. Feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly if you want to discuss this. You can call 970-464-5600 M-F 8-5 Mountain time, or drop us an email at support@flyinmiata.com. :)
Amazing, the oldest NA6 seems to be the most bullet proof.
Well, my FC RX7 had a mild performance clutch installed from the last owner + car sat for quite a while. Guess what? the slave clutch gave out in less than 2000km. A good additional footnote for anyone buying an older car that had sat for some time.
Great video😊😊😊😊. Thanks for sharing 😊😊😊.
Glad you enjoyed it
Correct me if I'm wrong, but 1st gen NC's (and I believe 2nd gens too) often need a thermostat replacement
happened to me on my 08, only with the original thermostat. replaced it and never happened again
My heater hose blew out for that exact reason and yes it was while driving back from visiting family out of state for Christmas. The shop that did the work replacing the hose (in the middle of nowhere) then mangled the copper inlet pipe getting to it. I only found out because it started to leak. Replaced with oem hoses and 2 clamps and the use of a swagging tool and now it is solid. But all because that cam o ring.
Question: Are the oem motor mounts on a '05 mazdaspeed upgraded from other non turbo Miatas?
Nice video, thanks.
Glad you liked it! :)
24:00 Hey, what was used to relocate the cruise control servo on that blue turbo NA?
Probably one of these, as they come with the turbo kit.
www.flyinmiata.com/default/cruise-relocation-bracket.html
Why didn't FM do a video like this like 10 years ago?
When would y’all recommend changing trans fluid on nd?
Often overlooked the the MSM Mazdaspeed Miata:
36:00
On the MSM Mazdaspeed:
Breather connector Part# 15725JF
Turbo Drain pipe and gaskets
Throttle body inlet pipe
The connector grounded on the intake manifold
PCV Valve
BOG Solenoid
Check Valve
CAM CAS CAP - the one on back of the engine that leaks.
There is a coolant 90degree coolant hose by the turbo that fails
Gasket on the turbo up pipe.
Thanks! Sounds like we should do an MSM episode at some point!
@@FlyinMiataVideo Absolutely! Finally the MSM is getting some love! 😂
I was hoping to find it in this video but no luck. In my imported Japanese MX5 (Eunos Roadster) 1.8L with an automatic transmission, I keep eventually having the "hold" light flash and not turn off with the switch on the gearstick like it should. So it prevents the car from going into overdrive and sometimes leads me to run too high rpm. I've tried various sensor replacement, valve/seal replacement, oil replacements, etc but nothing has ever kept it off for more than a few days. Have you ever encountered this due to lack of maintenance on anything specific?
Oh boy! We have a truckload of Miata knowledge, however.........we haven't dealt with many automatic transmissions used in these. Sorry.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Random update just for your own knowledge, it's an ECU problem.
@@RetroQGaming Thanks for following up on this and we're glad to hear you found the culprit!
When will the crossflow radiator come back in stock?
What was the transmission issue with the earlier NC? Did it apply to the manual?
Oil catch can "needed" for NC as well? From googling sounds like not necessary since not Direct Injection?
Does the catch can fit the ND ever need to be removed and deep cleaned since you can't access the sludge at the bottom like the other style of catch cans for the earlier models?
We'd recommend taking it apart for cleaning, if needed. It's a fairly easy unit to remove and take apart for cleaning, and shouldn't have to be done very often.
Very informative video!!
How about the coolant temperature sensors for the ECU and fan switch on NA Miatas?
Very good
what im taking from this is the NA6's are bullet proof :)
Can you buy NC front hubs for NC2 and put them on an NC1 without modification and have the risk mitigated ?
Does installing an oil catch can cause issues with the factory warranty ?
Not that we're aware of but it's always best to ask your local dealer about it first. If they're happy, you shouldn't have any issue if a warrant claim is brought up in the future.
1. I recently purchased (from FM - I'm local in GJ) all the suspension bushings and motor mounts for my 95'. What a difference! 2. Does anyone have suggestions for the drop in idle RPMs when I come to a stop? Happens whether I'm in neutral, have the clutch in, AC on or not. It drops to like 400 RPMs. The other question is I have a small crack in the rear plastic window. The top is perfect otherwise. Is there any way to replace either the clear plastic window or replace the zip-in rear top panel? I know this video is 7 mos old but I appreciate any responses.
You don't say what year your car is, but the NA did have a tendency to idle droop that can be adjusted out with the throttle bypass screw. That plastic window question indicates that you're probably in an NA.
For rear window repair, go to an upholstery shop and they should be able to help. This sort of work is done on boats all the time. The stitching might not be OE quality.
Do the RX8 hubs install with or without modifications?
What all have you guys gotten into having to do as far as "restoring" the wiring to the main relays? I haven't taken a look at mine, but I assume those probably aren't simple blade connectors if you have to depin and replace the end of the wire?
We offer a relay kit from Trackspeed that gets rid of a big part of the load that is killing the main relays. Some Deoxit would be a good idea as well as preventative maintenance.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Interesting! That gives me a couple more things to look into. Thank you! Reminds me of the electrical issues in the 240Z all over again. Haha Aging wires are aging wires I suppose!
Why do the low mileage nb1 have to worry about thrust bearings compared to higher mileage?
Because the ones with thrust bearing problems don't make it to high mileage.
Hi, i've got a 1.6 1999 NB and my brakes or something else is squeaking when I turn my wheels when I start in the morning.. even when I'm not on the brakes. I really don't know why this is happening because my discs and pads look good
If you're not moving forward or back, it's not the brakes. It's something that's moving, like the steering rack, the ball joints, the tie rods or the power steering system.
Do you know if oil catch can fits 2020 Mazda 3 2.0?
We've never tested fitment on a Mazda 3.
If we get a cross flow radiator, do you need to update water pump to a better one?
No
nd1, when should i clean my intake values? currently have 66k. no catch can. thank you. Is an oil cooler important for daily driving?
This 👆
Things that relate to automatic transmission maintenance?
Beside durability, what are the advantages of a braided slave cylinder hose ?
Clutch feel. Similar to brake lines,the rubber lines can stretch and bulge under use. It's subtle, but there.
We have a full video on the benefits of the SS braided lines if you have it :)
th-cam.com/video/B_OhSvmsezE/w-d-xo.html
Just to add something.
The NA 1.6 VLSDs don’t like staying alive.
Why not just use rubbing/polishing compound? A lot less expensive!
I briefly viewed this video and didn't pick up what you're referencing. Where do you want to use rubbing compound?
He forgot about the water dreaded NA water plug.
This is telling me not to get a NA or NB Miata. Sounds like a headache 😅
Question tho, is using 5w40 stnthetic ok in a stock nb?
Yeah absolutely...
Yeah, but don’t
I honestly learned, what might really be wrong with my Honda here, reversing what an idiot mechanic I brought my vehicle too, told me.
I am almost feeling like he didn't even look at my vehical and is a total scumbag moron!
I wish I had cellpics of him doing "the work" to prove what he did, along with my future refund, which I will get!
Sorry to hear about your issues, but glad the video helped!
I hate when the nipple falls off in my hand ;)
Commonly overlooked maintenance items on a miata... LMFAO 🤣 🤣 🤣. I been trying to find a GOOD one for I say 12 years now and it's always something.
Cars top dollar an.
If it's a kid: the car is these abused to hell. Driven like a mustang when it's a 1.6 or 1.8.
If it's a grown man: 0 maintenance has been done do to. It's a weekend car and Mazda's last forever.
SMH it's these sad how Americans don't take care of there stuff but when it comes to time to sell the car. KBB and no low ball offers lol
Its a miata lol just keep up with the fluids and youre usually good on these cars
@@potatospud1697 I have seen Miata's with 0 maintenance in 4 years do to it's a weekend car. These because it's a "Miata" doesn't mean you should abuse it.
If you've been looking to buy one for 12 years and haven't been satisfied with anything available, you might need to adjust your expectations. Most people do not perfectly maintain their cars.
These cars are generally rock solid reliable and don't usually need an exhaustive list of parts being replaced. You should expect to need to do maintenance on one of these cars though, just like any other car. Just find one that isn't in shitbox condition, buy it, and deal with whatever maintenance your particular car may need yourself. It sounds like the owners you want to buy from are the kind that don't sell their Miata/s.
@@kipp4805 Yeah I know it's a me problem SMH. It's not a problem with people asking to much for a car that wasn't ever taken care of or worth the price whatsoever.
Also I'm trying to find a automatic not a Manual do to I these what'd something to cruise in on nice days.
hmmm every grown man i know that drives a miata is top notch on their maint items, and have done tasteful beneficial mods....maybe look to your local miata club