This has to be the most useful video on this drill. Thank you for showing it's reliability, uses, and the great sense of humour. I was particularly please you could see through the hole without any auxiliary means 😆
Took me an absolute age to drill through 8mm plexiglass with a 65mm hole saw, mostly due to the melted plastic filling the space between the teeth. Melted leftovers might not be the case with steel, but I do feel your pain. Happy to see your PBD 40 surviving for five years through all of it though, because I'm giving it a similarly hard time after only a few months in my possession.
If you have such problems than that is your own fault. If the plastic is melting when you drill then you use too low pressure causing high heat generated by friction, or using the wrong speed, or the wrong quality or type of hole saw or drill. I have had my PBD40 for about 6-7 years now, using it heavily mostly on metal and plastic and I only have issues using a hole saw when it is my own fault. Regardless which machine you buy, that plastic will melt unless you do it right. When you drill, you must always apply a certain pressure, not just "shave" the material, but cut successively through. If the hole saw you are using has blunt teeth or is cheap and poor quality then nothing will save you except buying a better whole saw. The PBD40 is a very good machine, but if you mishandle it, it will not live very long. It is much better than everything I have seen in the same price range, beaten only by larger, heavier and more expensive machines. The flexibility of this machine makes it extremely useful for hobby, but you have to use the flexibility in the right way, i.e. changing gear and speed as needed for the material. That flexibility and the actual constant speed powerful DC motor makes it to be the best on the market today. There are several copies of this, all are cheaper, but none are better. The worst with this machine is that the chuck is crap, so I changed it. th-cam.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/w-d-xo.html and after changing it is really very good.
In the end, I got rid of the PBD40 because of the machine head wobble. th-cam.com/video/3IsRIDdp05o/w-d-xo.html it was a very good machine, usable for many things, but I decided that I need a better, more powerful one. There are things I am missing from the PBD 40, like the depth gauge and the 200 rpm lowest speed, but my new machine goes down to 280 rpm and the depth gauge can be added externally, so it's fine for me. Here is the machine I replaced with: th-cam.com/video/5_HTjUOUsf8/w-d-xo.html The new machine is better in many ways, it is much quieter and definitely more rigid and way more precise. No wobbling anywhere, so I don't regret my decision, even if not everything is perfect in this machine. But I would not recommend this machine, because it is not problem free and also because I have no experience with any other machines except the ones I have or have had.
@@hans.talhoffer It is a big deal because it can start to wobble even if you pre-drill or use a center punch. Wobbling is no big deal if you only use it in wood, but if you are like me, and mostly work with metal then a better, more rigid machine is necessary. Of course, that means also more space is needed, and the machine is no longer portable.
@@AdaptingCamera I use the machine for metal 95% of the time and wobbling didn't matter even once to me. If I may ask, what was the diy project you couldn't get done because the drill was wobbling?
Mine died after about 2 years of seldom use. It first appeared to tun at max rpm (couldn't lower down the rpm). Now it wants to start but cuts out. Brushes look good - on par with the little use it has seen. It's disappointing the elctronics biard is potted so not possible to repair - only replace. This is based on online research - others have pointed to this board as frequent failure. I'm not there yet - still need to take it apart
My experience during all these years of using the PBD40 heavily on metal and not so heavily on plastic and wood is that it is an excellent machine, except for the chuck, which needs to be changed. I changed mine, and the improvement was huge. Here is a video showing how I changed the chuck: th-cam.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/w-d-xo.html
I have just bought this machine but I also have a 12 speed industrial pillar drill with coolant sprays & filtration tank which makes easy work of drilling steel plates etc & which is the one I would use for the project you have done & lets be honest the Bosch is a a sort of professional DIY drill & as such has limited capabilities when requiring heavier duty use
Great video, I have the same drill and I did some modifications to mine (chuck, bearings, handle and anti-wobbling spacer) but the whole head unit still has side to side wobble of around 0.5mm when pushed or when doing more "heavy duty" jobs, like cutting steel using large hole saw. Do you have the same issue with yours? I've noticed some wobbling in the video, but I am curious how serious is it in your case? Or maybe this is just the "feature" of this particular model from Bosch?:)
There is some small but noticable "wobble" with mine too. I always use a center punch and pre drill larger holes so it doesn't matter to me. For (realtively) heavy duty "diy" use, like in my video, this machine is more of a makeshift. A makeshift that still performs very well in my opinion and has a good size for a small workshop like mine. Drilling machines from "Optimum" are still very affordable and have a guaranteed concentricity accuracy of less than 0.03 mm. I looked at them when I was in the market but decided on the Bosch because somewhat cheaper, smaller and more "features". 🙂
@@hans.talhoffer I have the same feelings, there are of course more precise options on the market, like the Optimum you mentioned (or maybe even an used, old-school, industrial-grade drill), but it comes with the expense of an added weight and for a DIY guy like me it's easier to store compact 11kg Bosch than full grown 35+ kg pillar drill:) Mine after all the mods i did have 0.07mm of run-out on the chuck, which I would say is "not great, not terrible";) but there is another +0.25/-0.25 of the head side to side play. But I think for the money it performs quite well and with a punch and pre-drilled holes as you mentioned the precision is good enough for me:)
@@msz0mb142 Yes, exactly. Also, it let's you mount it directly on the workpiece which is not possible with a pillar drill. I would also consider a small milling machine for improved precision. A new one is about 950 Euros here.
Dear Talhoffer; thank you for this insightful and humorous review ! I live in Paris area and I just saw the PDD today at sale for 120 euros (!) in a big DIY chainstore, i really am tempted to biuy it. I had some doubts regarding some comments on the internet as to the juggling of the chuck which can make the drilling inaccurate, as well as the plastic levers which are not durable at all. May I ask your opinion on those two points ? Thank you in advance !
Hello and thanks! If you know how to drill, that is e.g. using a center punch if you need precise holes, there will be no problem in my experience. At least for DIY and hobby users. Of course precision is a relative term. In my experience the plastic and the levers are durable. But this is not a machine for commercial and everyday use. Well, maybe it is but for a relatively short time I would guess. And 120,- Euros? Are you shure we are talking about the Bosch and not a similar looking one from Scheppach?
@@hans.talhoffer Good day Talhoffer and thank you for sharing your experience ! As I am a very occasional DIYer, it is very useful to know your additional feedback. I couldn't believe it myself, someone posted the ad yesterday on some sort of cost-saving app ; I just bought it this morning at 0630 AM, right at the store opening because stocks were limited. A new Bosch PBD 40 for 120 euros ! I just registered it for the 3-year warranty on the Bosch website. First thing I think I will do is replace the wheel handle by a "triple bar" or add at least a wheel knob. Thank you so very much ! S.
@@sajadeshahidpour2008 You're welcome! 120 Euro is indeed a very good price. If you don't like it in the end you could still sell it with a little profit, I guess. 🙂
Is it possible to drill 100 holes in 10mm metal sheet (building welding table:). Diameter of holes - 16mm. I''m concidering the same method as you - drilling through the hole of the drill table. Do you think it will work?
Endlich mal jemand der die Bosch zum Metall bohren nimmt 👍. Wie ist deine ehrliche Meinung darüber lieber sparen für eine bessere oder ist die ok auch wenn man etwas öfters und intensiver damit arbeitet? Grüße 🤘
Man bekommt hier schon ziemlich viel für relativ wenig Geld auf sehr kleinem Raum. Für vergleichbare Ausstattung und Drehzahlbereich müßte man bei den üblichen Tischbohrmaschinen von Optimum, Bernardo, Holzmann ca. 1.000 Euro bezahlen. Natürlich erhält man dafür eine größere Bohrleistung und insgesamt auch eine viel robustere Maschine aber immer noch mit Riemenwechsel. Ich hatte ürsprünglich eine OPTIdrill D 23Pro oder Vergleichbares ins Auge gefasst und mich dann aus Platzgründen für die Bosch entschieden. Wenn Du sie mehrmals wöchentlich oder semipro einsetzen möchtest, würde ich Dir von der Bosch abraten.
Hi, can this Bosch drill have its body swing 180 degrees around the main post to the back so that base plate is out of the way, to drill some thick or long stock, end grain, or dog holes on a bench? Thank you !
Dear Talhoffer! In my experience, the PDB40 machine's biggest setup problem is as follows. The green machine body can turn around the vertical column. At least that's the case with my machine. You have a great deal of experience with this DiY drilling machine. I would like to ask from You, that did you meet on the net to solve this problem with any way? Your kind advice I would like to thank You in forward. Lajos Nagy, Hungary
Hello Mr. Nagy, sorry for my late reply. I somehow overlooked your comment. In regards to your problem, I think it very likely that you have a defective machine. If the warranty is still valid, you should send the machine in for repair. Best regards and sorry I couln't be more helpful!
@@hans.talhoffer Dear Talhoffer! Thank You very much for Your answer. It is sure, that You, as an experienced professional must receive a lot of messages…The warranty is gone. I don't want to argue with you about all the treasures in the world! But I don’t think so, that my dear green machine is defected. I think the reason for the mentioned rotation problem is that the machine body is not guided without gaps on the side planes of the teethed rack. I mark the center of holes to be made with a marker. If I use an auger with small diameter which axis is not collinear with the marking, it bends strongly or tends to break. But when I use an auger with diameter over about 5 mm, the machine body is jump with a small turn into a centered position. I was thinking if someone would make for me an steel common guide element for the column and the rack. I would attach it strongly&exact to the top or bottom of the green house - it would prevent the rotation.
@@lajosnagy2523 You're welcome Mr. Nagy. No, I don't receive that many messages. The flood of love letters from beautiful women I hoped for when becoming a famous youtube star didn't materialize as of yet. 🙂 In regards to your problem I will admit that I am more of a drill press user than a drill press expert. Just like most drivers of cars don't also know how to repair them. I am sorry I can't be of more help to you. But it interests me if your suggested solution does fix your machine. If you try it out and it works please write a short comment. It may help other people with the same problem. Thanks and good luck!
![Bosch PBD 40 Drill Press First Look [video 597]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x6C0KYBjxLs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Bosch PBD 40 Drill Press First Look [video 597]](/img/tr.png)
This has to be the most useful video on this drill. Thank you for showing it's reliability, uses, and the great sense of humour. I was particularly please you could see through the hole without any auxiliary means 😆
Haha, thanks! The drill still works but as I get older my sight is deteriorating. Very soon auxilliary means will become necessary.
@@hans.talhoffer _GREAT_ video and sense of humor ~ JUST this minute ordered my PBD40. _CHEERS_ !
Took me an absolute age to drill through 8mm plexiglass with a 65mm hole saw, mostly due to the melted plastic filling the space between the teeth. Melted leftovers might not be the case with steel, but I do feel your pain. Happy to see your PBD 40 surviving for five years through all of it though, because I'm giving it a similarly hard time after only a few months in my possession.
If you have such problems than that is your own fault. If the plastic is melting when you drill then you use too low pressure causing high heat generated by friction, or using the wrong speed, or the wrong quality or type of hole saw or drill. I have had my PBD40 for about 6-7 years now, using it heavily mostly on metal and plastic and I only have issues using a hole saw when it is my own fault. Regardless which machine you buy, that plastic will melt unless you do it right. When you drill, you must always apply a certain pressure, not just "shave" the material, but cut successively through. If the hole saw you are using has blunt teeth or is cheap and poor quality then nothing will save you except buying a better whole saw. The PBD40 is a very good machine, but if you mishandle it, it will not live very long. It is much better than everything I have seen in the same price range, beaten only by larger, heavier and more expensive machines. The flexibility of this machine makes it extremely useful for hobby, but you have to use the flexibility in the right way, i.e. changing gear and speed as needed for the material. That flexibility and the actual constant speed powerful DC motor makes it to be the best on the market today. There are several copies of this, all are cheaper, but none are better. The worst with this machine is that the chuck is crap, so I changed it. th-cam.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/w-d-xo.html and after changing it is really very good.
Yes, considering the price, it is a very good deal.
Very useful review. Thank you.
You're welcome!
In the end, I got rid of the PBD40 because of the machine head wobble. th-cam.com/video/3IsRIDdp05o/w-d-xo.html it was a very good machine, usable for many things, but I decided that I need a better, more powerful one. There are things I am missing from the PBD 40, like the depth gauge and the 200 rpm lowest speed, but my new machine goes down to 280 rpm and the depth gauge can be added externally, so it's fine for me.
Here is the machine I replaced with: th-cam.com/video/5_HTjUOUsf8/w-d-xo.html The new machine is better in many ways, it is much quieter and definitely more rigid and way more precise. No wobbling anywhere, so I don't regret my decision, even if not everything is perfect in this machine. But I would not recommend this machine, because it is not problem free and also because I have no experience with any other machines except the ones I have or have had.
I would think that the head wobble is not a big deal if you center punch before drilling. Or is it?
@@hans.talhoffer It is a big deal because it can start to wobble even if you pre-drill or use a center punch. Wobbling is no big deal if you only use it in wood, but if you are like me, and mostly work with metal then a better, more rigid machine is necessary. Of course, that means also more space is needed, and the machine is no longer portable.
@@AdaptingCamera I use the machine for metal 95% of the time and wobbling didn't matter even once to me.
If I may ask, what was the diy project you couldn't get done because the drill was wobbling?
I’m thinking of getting one and after watching your great video I may buy one 👍
Thanks, I still like mine.
Mine died after about 2 years of seldom use. It first appeared to tun at max rpm (couldn't lower down the rpm). Now it wants to start but cuts out. Brushes look good - on par with the little use it has seen. It's disappointing the elctronics biard is potted so not possible to repair - only replace. This is based on online research - others have pointed to this board as frequent failure. I'm not there yet - still need to take it apart
My experience during all these years of using the PBD40 heavily on metal and not so heavily on plastic and wood is that it is an excellent machine, except for the chuck, which needs to be changed. I changed mine, and the improvement was huge. Here is a video showing how I changed the chuck: th-cam.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/w-d-xo.html
I didn't know it could be changed. Thanks for the video!
I have just bought this machine but I also have a 12 speed industrial pillar drill with coolant sprays & filtration tank which makes easy work of drilling steel plates etc & which is the one I would use for the project you have done & lets be honest the Bosch is a a sort of professional DIY drill & as such has limited capabilities when requiring heavier duty use
I definitely pushed it to the max. Yes, it's a DIY drill and not suited for regular heavy duty use.
Great video, I have the same drill and I did some modifications to mine (chuck, bearings, handle and anti-wobbling spacer) but the whole head unit still has side to side wobble of around 0.5mm when pushed or when doing more "heavy duty" jobs, like cutting steel using large hole saw. Do you have the same issue with yours? I've noticed some wobbling in the video, but I am curious how serious is it in your case? Or maybe this is just the "feature" of this particular model from Bosch?:)
There is some small but noticable "wobble" with mine too. I always use a center punch and pre drill larger holes so it doesn't matter to me.
For (realtively) heavy duty "diy" use, like in my video, this machine is more of a makeshift. A makeshift that still performs very well in my opinion and has a good size for a small workshop like mine.
Drilling machines from "Optimum" are still very affordable and have a guaranteed concentricity accuracy of less than 0.03 mm. I looked at them when I was in the market but decided on the Bosch because somewhat cheaper, smaller and more "features". 🙂
@@hans.talhoffer I have the same feelings, there are of course more precise options on the market, like the Optimum you mentioned (or maybe even an used, old-school, industrial-grade drill), but it comes with the expense of an added weight and for a DIY guy like me it's easier to store compact 11kg Bosch than full grown 35+ kg pillar drill:)
Mine after all the mods i did have 0.07mm of run-out on the chuck, which I would say is "not great, not terrible";) but there is another +0.25/-0.25 of the head side to side play. But I think for the money it performs quite well and with a punch and pre-drilled holes as you mentioned the precision is good enough for me:)
@@msz0mb142 Yes, exactly. Also, it let's you mount it directly on the workpiece which is not possible with a pillar drill.
I would also consider a small milling machine for improved precision. A new one is about 950 Euros here.
Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome!
Dear Talhoffer; thank you for this insightful and humorous review ! I live in Paris area and I just saw the PDD today at sale for 120 euros (!) in a big DIY chainstore, i really am tempted to biuy it.
I had some doubts regarding some comments on the internet as to the juggling of the chuck which can make the drilling inaccurate, as well as the plastic levers which are not durable at all.
May I ask your opinion on those two points ?
Thank you in advance !
Hello and thanks! If you know how to drill, that is e.g. using a center punch if you need precise holes, there will be no problem in my experience. At least for DIY and hobby users. Of course precision is a relative term.
In my experience the plastic and the levers are durable. But this is not a machine for commercial and everyday use. Well, maybe it is but for a relatively short time I would guess.
And 120,- Euros? Are you shure we are talking about the Bosch and not a similar looking one from Scheppach?
@@hans.talhoffer Good day Talhoffer and thank you for sharing your experience ! As I am a very occasional DIYer, it is very useful to know your additional feedback.
I couldn't believe it myself, someone posted the ad yesterday on some sort of cost-saving app ; I just bought it this morning at 0630 AM, right at the store opening because stocks were limited. A new Bosch PBD 40 for 120 euros ! I just registered it for the 3-year warranty on the Bosch website.
First thing I think I will do is replace the wheel handle by a "triple bar" or add at least a wheel knob.
Thank you so very much ! S.
@@sajadeshahidpour2008 You're welcome! 120 Euro is indeed a very good price. If you don't like it in the end you could still sell it with a little profit, I guess. 🙂
Is it possible to attach a mortise adaptor on this drill?
Is it possible to drill 100 holes in 10mm metal sheet (building welding table:). Diameter of holes - 16mm. I''m concidering the same method as you - drilling through the hole of the drill table. Do you think it will work?
I don't think it's possible. You could buy a magnetic drill for that and resell it after drilling the holes.
Why wouldn't it be possible?
What clamp brand did you use? That white steel does look solid!
The brand is "Optimum".
@@hans.talhoffer thanks hans!!
@@javilo2797 You're welcome!
What is the music in the 3rd minute of this video?
It's from Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake: Dance of the Little Swans
Endlich mal jemand der die Bosch zum Metall bohren nimmt 👍. Wie ist deine ehrliche Meinung darüber lieber sparen für eine bessere oder ist die ok auch wenn man etwas öfters und intensiver damit arbeitet?
Grüße 🤘
Man bekommt hier schon ziemlich viel für relativ wenig Geld auf sehr kleinem Raum. Für vergleichbare Ausstattung und Drehzahlbereich müßte man bei den üblichen Tischbohrmaschinen von Optimum, Bernardo, Holzmann ca. 1.000 Euro bezahlen. Natürlich erhält man dafür eine größere Bohrleistung und insgesamt auch eine viel robustere Maschine aber immer noch mit Riemenwechsel.
Ich hatte ürsprünglich eine OPTIdrill D 23Pro oder Vergleichbares ins Auge gefasst und mich dann aus Platzgründen für die Bosch entschieden. Wenn Du sie mehrmals wöchentlich oder semipro einsetzen möchtest, würde ich Dir von der Bosch abraten.
Hi, can this Bosch drill have its body swing 180 degrees around the main post to the back so that base plate is out of the way, to drill some thick or long stock, end grain, or dog holes on a bench? Thank you !
No, the body is fixed. But it has a hole in the middle and you can drill through this hole.
@@hans.talhoffer found this and apparently it can do that with whole column turned around th-cam.com/video/8ypXCasAaVw/w-d-xo.html 9:28
@@jojo5544 Nice, good find! Thanks for the feedback!
Is there an attachment to allow drilling at an angle ?
I don't think so.
Question, can this Bosch work at low speed like 30rpm?
No. The exact rpm numbers per gear setting are shown in the video.
Well that certainly answers my question "cant it drill holes in steel?" 😆
It can drill holes in steel but it can't steal drills in holes. 🙂
Dear Talhoffer!
In my experience, the PDB40 machine's biggest setup problem is as follows.
The green machine body can turn around the vertical column.
At least that's the case with my machine.
You have a great deal of experience with this DiY drilling machine.
I would like to ask from You, that did you meet on the net to solve this problem with any way?
Your kind advice I would like to thank You in forward.
Lajos Nagy, Hungary
Hello Mr. Nagy, sorry for my late reply. I somehow overlooked your comment. In regards to your problem, I think it very likely that you have a defective machine. If the warranty is still valid, you should send the machine in for repair. Best regards and sorry I couln't be more helpful!
@@hans.talhoffer Dear Talhoffer! Thank You very much for Your answer. It is sure, that You, as an experienced professional must receive a lot of messages…The warranty is gone. I don't want to argue with you about all the treasures in the world! But I don’t think so, that my dear green machine is defected. I think the reason for the mentioned rotation problem is that the machine body is not guided without gaps on the side planes of the teethed rack. I mark the center of holes to be made with a marker. If I use an auger with small diameter which axis is not collinear with the marking, it bends strongly or tends to break. But when I use an auger with diameter over about 5 mm, the machine body is jump with a small turn into a centered position. I was thinking if someone would make for me an steel common guide element for the column and the rack. I would attach it strongly&exact to the top or bottom of the green house - it would prevent the rotation.
@@lajosnagy2523 You're welcome Mr. Nagy. No, I don't receive that many messages. The flood of love letters from beautiful women I hoped for when becoming a famous youtube star didn't materialize as of yet. 🙂
In regards to your problem I will admit that I am more of a drill press user than a drill press expert. Just like most drivers of cars don't also know how to repair them. I am sorry I can't be of more help to you.
But it interests me if your suggested solution does fix your machine. If you try it out and it works please write a short comment. It may help other people with the same problem. Thanks and good luck!