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Thanks and best of luck to you! Keep in mind that the rails I use in the video are from Ikea for Ikea cabinets. There are similar rail systems from other manufacturers but they may differ slightly.

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!

I am still using it.

I would think that the head wobble is not a big deal if you center punch before drilling. Or is it?

@@hans.talhoffer It is a big deal because it can start to wobble even if you pre-drill or use a center punch. Wobbling is no big deal if you only use it in wood, but if you are like me, and mostly work with metal then a better, more rigid machine is necessary. Of course, that means also more space is needed, and the machine is no longer portable.

@@AdaptingCamera I use the machine for metal 95% of the time and wobbling didn't matter even once to me. If I may ask, what was the diy project you couldn't get done because the drill was wobbling?

I definitely pushed it to the max. Yes, it's a DIY drill and not suited for regular heavy duty use.

It can drill holes in steel but it can't steal drills in holes. 🙂

Thanks! As it looks now my glazing block supply will still last for centuries to come and benefit lots of descendants. Never will they lack a glazing block come what may. At least I made sure of that!

This way one has more space to adjust the height. An no, there is no risk of the rail coming off because the head of the screw prevents the washer from coming loose. You can try it. Pull the washer down and try to pull it off the screw. The rim of the head will prevent it.

No, though you need later on of course.

Grazie, amico!

Thanks, this is a very good tip! Aligning the cabinets would've indeed been easier this way.

You're welcome!

Generally speaking, shimming is needed when there is misalignment between the cabinets because of an uneven wall. Just fix the rail and hang the cabinets and you will very likely be fine. In case there is some misalignment you then can still apply the shims or maybe even decide that you can live with it.

You're welcome!

Thank you for the very nice comment!

Thanks! The top is made from two wood panels I bought at my local DIY-store, though I had to cut them to size and connect the two panels with pocket hole screws and biscuits (biscuit jointer). I also did some routing, sanding and used two coats of hard wax oil with sanding in between to finish it off.

Thank you for the nice comment!

Germany

The brand is "Optimum".

@@hans.talhoffer thanks hans!!

@@javilo2797 You're welcome!

Thanks!

Seems like I will have to live without your appreciation then.

There is some small but noticable "wobble" with mine too. I always use a center punch and pre drill larger holes so it doesn't matter to me. For (realtively) heavy duty "diy" use, like in my video, this machine is more of a makeshift. A makeshift that still performs very well in my opinion and has a good size for a small workshop like mine. Drilling machines from "Optimum" are still very affordable and have a guaranteed concentricity accuracy of less than 0.03 mm. I looked at them when I was in the market but decided on the Bosch because somewhat cheaper, smaller and more "features". 🙂

@@hans.talhoffer I have the same feelings, there are of course more precise options on the market, like the Optimum you mentioned (or maybe even an used, old-school, industrial-grade drill), but it comes with the expense of an added weight and for a DIY guy like me it's easier to store compact 11kg Bosch than full grown 35+ kg pillar drill:) Mine after all the mods i did have 0.07mm of run-out on the chuck, which I would say is "not great, not terrible";) but there is another +0.25/-0.25 of the head side to side play. But I think for the money it performs quite well and with a punch and pre-drilled holes as you mentioned the precision is good enough for me:)

​@@msz0mb142 Yes, exactly. Also, it let's you mount it directly on the workpiece which is not possible with a pillar drill. I would also consider a small milling machine for improved precision. A new one is about 950 Euros here.

Gern geschehen!

One would then have to place spacers on the bottom as well. This would be very impractical because the spacers would have to be glued to the wall. In case of the wall being evenly out of plumb you would be right though.

@@hans.talhoffer Shouldn't need to do that. Because the rail is out of plumb in a, let's call it, negative direction. The lower half of the cabinet to be plumb would need to dig into the wall (as shown in your video) By placing additional shims on the rail (top), you are accounting for the negative plumb at the rail making it even with the spacers (bottom). You can also do the opposite with wall cabinets, for example I removed some of the bottom spacers and added shims to others to compensate for out of plumb by up to 3mm over a metre. To add shims to bottom, simply pull the spacer out a bit then shim and hammer back in. These tips are from my recent kitchen install, and thanks for your video it helped me understand the suspension rails system!

@@gavin_hill "To add shims to bottom, simply pull the spacer out a bit then shim and hammer back in. " I show this in the video at 4:38 🙂 In my opinion it was easier to remove a little bit of plastering in just 4 places than to use shims for the whole length of the two rails. Of course if your walls are made out of plasterboard you don't really have this option. In this case your solution would be the best and only solution.

I made the top and side panels myself out of glued wood panels that I bought from the diy store.

You're welcome!

If watching the video doesn't explain it, there is nothing I can do to explain it any more than that. I mean there is nothing "he" can do...

I always wear proper footwear! It's the same footwear the Romans used to conquer a huge empire.

@@hans.talhoffer 🤣🤣🤣

You're welcome!

Yes, in a lot of countries here. Although a guy in the comments mentioned that this system is also available in the US.

No, the body is fixed. But it has a hole in the middle and you can drill through this hole.

@@hans.talhoffer found this and apparently it can do that with whole column turned around th-cam.com/video/8ypXCasAaVw/w-d-xo.html 9:28

@@jojo5544 Nice, good find! Thanks for the feedback!

Thank you

Yes, and it's still going strong. Never had a dissapointment with Makita and I own a lot of tools from them.

Hi, it looks pretty much identical. There may be different type designations for different countries. I bought my DLM432 in Germany. Ususally with Makita they have a model code, in this case DLM432, followed by an accessory code. So "PT2" and "CT2" designate the included accessories witch seem to be the same.

Thank you for the nice comment. Yes, exactly. No need for feet with these cabinets. As with any wall hanging cabinets for kitchens, btw. You don't have to use the ones from Ikea. What dou you mean with "the level info"?

Thank you !!! ( I meant to ask you which lazer lever you used in the tool list in the description video, but I see it’s listed already.)

@@olivepressdesign Ah ok. And you're welcome!

Leak testing these pipes is done using special equipment and air pressure. If I was to test the segment I replaced in the video I would have to dig up the other side of the house, break up the concrete pipe, seal the pvc pipe at that end, seal the two sections inside the house, pressurize the pipes and see if there is any loss in air pressure after a certain amount of time. So you tell me if I did a leak test before cementing... 🙂

@@hans.talhoffer you also could just try running water through it with a hose as a much simpler test. Doesn’t need to be overly complicated bro.

@@jjwe2002 These pipes are inserted one into the other and are sloped so the water drains even without the gasket without any issue or leakage. In fact I used the drain this way during the installation process. Kitchen sink, dishwasher and washing machine were connected all the time when I was not working. The gaskets are there if pipe blockages occur and prevent leakage in case of backwater and flooding of the pipes. The gasket is 360° and if you want to do a leak test you have to do it the way I described. Sometimes the gasket can get pushed inside the pipe during the fitting process. This can happen anywhere around the pipe not only at the bottom.

Thanks and yes. You can fit any Makita 18 volt battery.

Hey! It very likely probably maybe will. But please don't sue me if it doesn't.

@@hans.talhoffer Haha ;-) Sure. Thanx.

@@obiwanbts Good luck! 😉

You have to push it like described in this video: th-cam.com/video/vCadcBR95oU/w-d-xo.html

Hi, it depends on your wall. You can ask the guys at the store where you buy your screws.

You need two.

Gibts in Deutsch auf meinem deutschen Kanal: th-cam.com/video/kgkeKW2HdKQ/w-d-xo.html

It's from Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake: Dance of the Little Swans