Panda Prints! CR-10 / CR-10S - Adjust E-steps / Extruder calibration
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2018
- Welcome to my new playlist, Panda Prints!
Today's video describes how to tune your e-steps / do an extruder calibration on your Creality CR-10 / CR-10S printer. I'me sure this could apply to other or similar models that use a Bowden tube to the hot end.
Nutshell: if your printer control box is trying to push out 100mm of filament, but only 50mm actually comes out - your prints are going to look awful. Tuning e-steps or calibration ensures that what amount of filament is being pushed out is ACTUALLY the amount being pushed out.
Most printers come from the factory without much fine tuning, so follow along with this process as it is a "must have" in order to achieve quality prints.
Thanks for subscribing!
Music: Crystal - by DJ AG
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For me that I had to do this for the very first time , this is the best video , most simple and helpful! I was so confused with other videos showing the adjustments being done from the printers settings while my own machine doesn’t even have these options ! Thank you so much this is a good start to tune my CR-X
Glad it was helpful! Older video but it still works :)
One thumbs up for the clear and informative explanation.
This is extremely helpful. Currently waiting for my microswiss metal hotend to replace my original which is giving me issues and making my extruder click a ton and underextrude. This guide will help me calibrate and very informative!
Thank you so much for this. Very helpful, finally figured out what was wrong with my printer.
Great video for beginners. Thank you so much for the great explanation and for sharing.
Exactly what i needed after upgrading my Extruder! Thanx :)
Great how to video. Many thanks.
awsome , it worked. i thought my problems where the petg i was using, as soon as i saw symptoms of under extrusion i looked around, found this and gave this a shot. im using an ender 3 and the stock firmware e steps for this machine are 93 per the recommendation of another youtuber that did this calibration on his updated firmware ender 3.
Really helpful! Was pulling my hair out until I did this! Thanks Buddy
Very interesting and informative. I will do this on my CR-X asap. Thanks!
Done. Worked. #happydance
Mine was, get this.. 35mm under extruding after I installed my micro Swiss DD extruder.
Using this equation, it was looking a little over-extruded at the correct rate, so I settled on calling it 30mm under, and this seemed to give an overall better quality.
Ironically I found out afterwards the micro Swiss recommends 130mm extrusion on it's all metal hot end DD, so it looks to be spot on.
Many thanks for the sanity check!
24.5mm under extruding on my CR-10 V2 with a Micro Swiss A2 nozzle
Thank you very much for this tutorial! Take care of you!
T B you’re welcome!
Thanks. Good clear instructions.
Thank you, this was very helpful.
Thank you for the guide. I just finished my first test print after calibrate. The result is totally awesome.
Sub +1
Cool! Glad it helped! Happy printing!
Super helpful, little hard to see, but big help
Have you ever tried just inputting the new extrusion e step numbers into the control box , instead of going into Cura ? This would be a one time adjustment for any slicer that you use. On your control box , go into CONTROL , MOTION , STEPS/MM and all the numbers for every axis is there for you to adjust . Just change and then exit back to STORE SETTINGS and hit that . Now your set. Do the same for X , Y Z axis . No need to open any slicer and adjust gcodes .
Thanks for this. This is exactly what I did and it is now perfect. I did upgrade my firmware though. Not sure about stock ones are able to save that setting.
Thank you for making things both simple and correct.
Great video, thanks
You make a good how-to. Subbed.
One hint, if this was linked to search-terms of delamination, weak layers, etc, you would pull in a lot more views. I had this issue a few days back and worked it out, but sure wish I found your video then. It would have saved me several print tests and a lot of "making it up as I go-ing"
PS - a dirty nozzle (common on the CR-10 and it's brethren) will shift the filament calibration. It's worth doing a cold pull to clean things out before doing the calibration. Especially if things were printing fine and then were not. Sometimes junk piles up in there slow, sometimes fast. The hot end of the tube backs out and causes buildup issues - there are vids on the subject.
Thanks!
Hey Scott, thanks for the feedback! I have added more search tags per your feedback. Thanks!
Yes, I agree there's other things mechanically that people run into that should be addressed before tuning e-steps. I actually filmed a video yesterday reviewing some of those issues, I will post that soon (need to edit it) and I will add this calibration video link to that one. Hope that helps people!
Thanks for subscribing!
Pandatrooper!!! I didn't know you had a channel. Well thanks for the easy explanation. I am needing to fine tune my esteps as well. The one thing I would recommend is to flash your firmware with TH3D Studios' unified firmware. You can save the e/x/y/z steps right on the machine and won't need to change it in Cura startup script. Helpful if you bounce between Cura and other slicers.
Thanks for the tip!
how hard is it to flash the TH3D firmware? Does it require a ftdi or similar device to flash?
Jason Yap so in pandas case what would he put into the E steps on the machine to make it correct?? I'd love to fix to problem right in the machine.
Gotta sub a channel that just gets to it, very nice dude. Great video.
James Powell Thanks! Glad you find it helpful!
Thank you 👍
I have read different people's comments on this calibration but did not know how to do it. Only thing I might have missed is starting by saying it needs to be at temp and not just out in the air. Wonder if you set the temp at different setting can it change the feed as the filament is more fluid and flows with more or less restriction?
Do you have to make the adjustments in cura or can I just change the settings manually on the control counsel ? Also what auto bed leveler are you using will it also work on cr 10? Thanks, great informational video
I got some issues with my new CR-10 smart, gonna reply if this work !
I was under extruding by 23mm :( but happy for your help :)
The Bossk That’s quite a bit. You might want to upgrade to your metal extruder instead of tuning your printer on the stock plastic one
Indeed i will , i plan to upgrade as much as i can from now on. Im printing benchy with the new cura settings. 1st few layers looked great so far. I can tell its better than it was. I can't say thanks enough.
No arguing with those results. ♥️
does "m92 e####" have to be the last line after priming the extruder (G92 EO)?
Great video, but do you have the method where you save the new E value to your EEPROM / firmware in the printer controller? Then you don't have to make this change each print?
Bill B Hi Bill. You don’t need to do this on each print. Once you input the e steps into your Cura settings, they are automatically exported with the Gcode on each print.
Sure, you can update the firmware but I explained in the video that I didn’t want to do that.
Does this G-coding apply for the Tevo Tornado? I tried to do this for my Tornado and results where horrible. :-/
So, how do I confirm that the Esteps changes have worked by extruding another 100mm ? If I send the gcode to the CR10s via USB to extrude 100mm it still comes up short. I also tried sending the gcode that you added in the machine settings first but that still didn't work.
Recently shipped CR10 have a Steps per unit of 93.00 for the extruder. Thanks for the video. My only concern is the speed you dial the knob when extruding seem to affect the amount of filament extruded. Or i have a really bad extruder :/
Yeah the speed of you going out determines how much is pushed out. I did this about 7 times and took the average
Just came across this. Seems extremely helpful! Will be trying this today to see if it fixes my problem, but I am unsure if the problems is under extrusion. Is there any way I could send you a picture of my print to get your opinion?
You should generally do an extruder calibration right after your printer is set up. See if that helps first. Other main culprits for bad prints are: belts too loose, hot end screws loose, eccentric spacers in the X carriage and under the bed are loose. You should take care of hardware things before you make software adjustments. Hope that helps!
The hardware has all been taken care of recently besides doing this. I did it yesterday but of course, my hot end heat sensor went out so I spent the day making it work well enough to continue testing while a new one comes it haha. 3D printing motto. When you fix one thing, another breaks. But I will be re leveling today and hoping for the best :). Thanks for the video! Very helpful!
I have an issue im trying to fix. i changed my motherboard on my cr-10 control box to a version 2.0 board. Now my extruder is out of center and moves all the way to the side and prints. so i have to push the bed all the way back and push the extruder all the way to the left and then it works but is there a way to fix the center point at all?
You can set esteps on the cr10 controller but it doesn't seem to save. :(
Thanks for making the video!
When I view the Esteps/mm on the menu of my s5 it states a value of 93 steps/mm. Would I use that 93 value instead of the 95, i.e (93*100)/(92.75) vs (95*100)/(92.75)?
Also, would I want to input my new Estep values only into my slicing SW vs the printer menu itself?
Aaron Rollins yes to the first question and yes to the second of your printer allows it. Make sure to save the settings. My printer has an older control board and it did not have the ability to adjust or save Esteps so it had to be done via Cura or a firmware update :)
@@pandapropsncostumes awesome, I appreciate the quick reply!
@@fenderaaron10 I am curious what model you have, were you able to update right on the control?
@@shocwav3 yep, not sure what firmware version came stock with my s5 but I was able to update via the control box.
I had the same results when I originally editing the starting script in S3D
Maybe I missed it but shouldn't you heat the nozzle before trying to move the axis to extrude filament?
Use, use the PLA or ABS preheat options ... or preheat to the temperature you are printing at for your material, maybe 215 or 220 even.
Ideally would you not want to do this with the nozzle off? This ensures your extruder gear is accurately moving the correct distance. Otherwise, you will be required to adjust this based on other variables such as temperature and filament type.
That's what I did. No markers etc. Remove bowden tube at extruder then flush-cut the filament, then extrude. Now you can flush cut again and measure true extruded length.
So my TH3D Unified firmware on my cr-10s had 93 showing on the lcd. I was under by 4mm so I did the calculation and came up with 97. Entered that and saved settings. The part I had been printing turned to crap with large blobs forming that started throwing things off. I then set it to 94 and while the print looked better, the overhangs that were fine before looked like crap. I think I'm going back to 93 and just be under by 4mm.
Hi, I had 4mm too, 95 was my perfect fit.
I made two measurements. The first normal: the filament passed through the tube and the nozzle - the result is: 94mm. Second: I unscrewed the tube and released the filament freely into the air. The result: 100 mm (ideal). So should I calibrate or not?
In my opinion, you print with the bowden tube on. So why do the test with the tube off? There's no resistance if the hot end is not on. I would suggest leaving it on and making the adjustment.
Or, if your extrusion is 100MM with the hot end off, shouldn't it be printing perfectly already? :)
Can just save this new # to my Console (CR10V3) rather than in CURA GCODE, right?
Instead of using a start script in Cura I think there's a parameter now called "% flow". This should perform the same calibration correct?
No, I believe flow increases everything at the same time. So yes, you increase extrusion but also the motor speeds etc, movement rates etc.
In this case, its simply making the extruder extrude more and consistently
@@pandapropsncostumes I do not believe that this is correct. "Flow" only affects the E motor, not X, Y or Z
2:50 It does crash the controller. For me I can still use the 1mm option just as long as I wait for it to finish every 30-40mm. It's so weird how it restarts but oh well.
Aethelbeorn I noticed on this generation of Creality printers, the control knob / screen will crash if you spin it too fast. I have a newer Ender 3 Pro and you can spin the knob as fast as you want and it doesn’t crash. I’m assuming it’s an updated board hardware / software
just install custom firmware its very easy. after that mine no longer crashes .
Hi Panda! Thanks for the video... I have 2 questions though, you say that 95 is the stock CR-10 firmware extrusion... but I get flow rate at 100 by default on the controller. Or is that something else? Second question: could you instead of adjusting the E steps, increase the flow in Cura or the cr-10 controller to 109 percent? thanks!
Hi Johnny. 95 was what I was told on the CR-10 Facebook group. Oddly, my CR-10S does not display the additional info you describe (maybe I'm not looking at the right place).
As I understand it, flow rate controls the flow of the filament and the speed. What you want to do is control how much filament is coming out without altering the speed.
I'm no expert by any means, I haven't dug into the firmware or anything like that. This was simply a way of getting it to work for those that don't have a computer connected or want / need to alter the firmware. So long as you export your models using the same settings, the extrusion rates will get exported.
Hope that helps!
Update Johnny: I confirmed that the FR on the control box speeds EVERYTHING up, IE all the motors etc. For an extrusion calibration you want the extruder to push more filament out but not move the other motors faster. Theres a difference! Hope that helps.
I meant the "flow" setting, not the feed rate... I still don't get what the 95 is though. Does that mean the cr-10 extrudes only 95 out of a 100mm by default?
Hey Johnny, the number on the display is percentage. So set at a feed rate of 100 on the screen of the CR-10 means it's extruding at 100 percent of the feed rate of 95. So if you were to increase the feed rate to 110 for example, it would be feeding 95 x 1.1 which is a feed rate of 104.5.
@@ocd-ottercustomdesign1275 Its the number of steps the stepper motor needs to make, to extrude 100mm of filament. Its not percent. Its not mm.
Does the hotend have to be heated up as I followed your guides and no filament moved AT ALL...?
Yes, it cant extrude if its not heated
just tried this. I'm sure it will work. The extruder will not move when in move axis mode. any advice would be great. thanks
Sounds like a mechanical issue with the motor? Make sure the plug is firmly connected on the motor side and the control box side.
If it still doesn’t work remove the Y axis motor and swap it for the extruder to see if the motor is the issue
Had the same Issue ;-)
SOLUTION: you have to preheat, e.g. 185° C, otherwise the motor of extruder will not move any way (to prevent Hot-end failures if to cold)
If you bring the x-jerk down should you automatically bring the y-jerk down too?
James Powell In my experience, yes. They should be the same.
Panda, my CR 10s WAS printing great out of the box. I had it running for about 3 months doing various jobs some of which were large multi day prints. All of a sudden it started under extruding (i can crush a 20mm test cube with 20% infill between my fingers with no effort). I completely disassembled and cleaned the hot end, i replaced the nozzle, replaced the bowden tube, replaced the thermistor... none of these solved the problem. I am completely at a loss as to what to do next. do you have any ideas? should I try replacing the stepper?
Hi Craig. You should try these one at a time to try and isolate what the problem is.
1. Check the extruder gear. Make sure there is no debris built up on the cog gear. Check that the tension on the spring is good and that the bearing is rolling freely.
2. Check the boden tube and adapters. The adapters from Creality or notoriously cheap, they do not have a firm grip on the bowden tube. Remove the tube to see if the ends are melted, if so trim off a section so that the ends are square. Make sure the adapters are holding the tube firmly in place with no movement.
3. Have you changed filaments? Changing brands or even colors can change extrusion.
4. Has the temperature in our house or room changed? That can be a factor.
5. Make sure all the plugs in the back of the control box are making a solid connection.
6. Make sure that you aren't getting heat creep. Check the fan on the hot end to make sure it's working properly. Make sure no fins have broken etc.
I hope those help!
If you use abrasive filaments like glow-in-the-dark or carbon fiber you may have worn down the teeth of the extruder gear. Order a steel gear to replace the brass.
nothing happens when i enter 100+ on the prepare/move axis/extruder menu.. do you know how i can get it to extrude
Be sure the nozzle is hot. My CR10s5 won't extrude if the nozzle is below the firmware value for "pre-heat PLA".
Hi, some peaopel say that the current E-Steps of the CR-10s is set to 93 in the stock firmware, how do I know If its 93 or 95? I have a CR-10s from 2018 sais sticker of the control box.
You could update the firmware completely but that's more involved than the method I currently show.
Its not going to "hurt" your printer. I would suggest trying the calibration with both measurements (93 and 95) and see what works best for you. Not every printer is manufactured the same, and there's lots of variables that would make yours different from mine, just based on how we assembled them.
Give both settings a try and see what works for you!
I'm a bit unclear where specifically to enter the "M92 E[number I calculated" I'm in my Printer settings in Cura and I see the box of g-code..but does it matter where in that box of gcode I put the text? or do i just stick it on a random line?
It is described in the video at 5:05 In the start Gcode window after E92
for cr 10s pro , the stock extrusion 's still 95 or not?
Mine was set at 93. You do not have to go through Cura to change it, you can change it right on your machine. Control > Motion > E Steps
Hey guys my cr10 extrudes exactly 95 mm, what is told to be normal stock extrusion in the video if my understanding is correct. Do i need to change anything?
Thanks!
Nataraja Goni If your printer is printing perfectly, then that’s fine.
I would still adjust your e steps to 100mm. The CR-10S seems to under extrude consistently. You’re not hurting anything if you change the e steps. Just try it and see if it improves your print.
Hey, thanks for the quick answer;)
Then i will give it a go and test it:)
Sometimes i have under extrusions but i was thinking it has something to do with frequent retraction. We 'll see:)
I'm only extruding 10mm instead of 100mm used the equation and edited the Gcode but that still gave me poor results when printing. Any ideas on how to fix this?
You should try and follow the video and extrude 100mm. 10mm is not going to give you enough of a good range to test your extruder calibration.
Hotend needs to be hot to move extruder
@@cutty02 thanks for the reply! It ended up being a clog in the lower portion of the extruder that I didnt see. And a few other rookie mistakes. Since then I've actually upgraded to a swiss extruder and I've had no issues at all.
Is this a custom extruder you have? can you share details
Atheer Al Attar No. This was the original black plastic one that comes with the printer.
Panda Props & Costumes How about the attached sensor
Atheer Al Attar It’s just the ABL sensor that came with the printer.
CR10S PRO Extruder replacement purchased here at Amazon:amzn.to/2PEkxdM
How do I know what the current E-step of my CR-10S ?
The stock extrusion is 95 as I am told.
Thanks!!
in my stock firmware on the CR-10 (non-S) it was 93. Now i flashed a Custom FW and its 95. Printing PLA, it would need 97.8 as i measured.
@@pandapropsncostumes , line 589, default steps on CR10S is 93.0
github.com/Creality3DPrinting/CR-10S/blob/master/CR-10s%20Firmware%20(Marlin)/CR10S-Factory-Thermal-Protection-Enabled/Marlin/Configuration.h
@@russellsmithies Good to know thanks! I went with 95 because thats what someone on the CR-10 FB group told me. :)
If I adjust any of the axis they move as I turn the dial. The extruder does not. Once I set it to 100mm how do I get it to start the test (extruding)?
You have to move the extruder 0.1mm at a time using the control knob, its described in the video. Is that what you are doing?
On my CR-10s that I bought 10/2018, I have to have my nozzle hot before it will let me manually move the extruder.
G Rant Yes, you can’t extruder through the hot end if it’s not heated up to temp. You can see in the video that the control box shows the hot end is at 200 degrees
Correct. I was just noting that Lance King may need to heat up the nozzle even it he's extruding into nothing.
G Rant Thanks. Yes, the firmware will not let the motor extrude if it’s not past 170 degrees
Sorry I'm new to 3d printing,I have a cr10s,can you tell me how you made it extrude the 100mm.THANK YOU.
Ummmm... watch the video. It shows how to extrude 100mm step by step. th-cam.com/video/HDDU6OKALmM/w-d-xo.html
is this going through nozzle?
Yes
Do you really need to do decimals? I'm thinking 109 would be fine. I set my CR-10S at 99. Strange they are that far apart.
Also instead of slowly turning the dial to get to 100 mm, why not create a gcode file and put it on the sd card to do the same? Just use G1 E100 F200. This will extrude 100 mm of filament really slowly.
I move the extruder to +100 and push button. Nothing happens.
You need to preheat the nozzle first. Also, go slowly when turning the knob as mine came up with 'killed' error if I go too fast.
damn.. this explanes alot.. i got 114,5% o.O. no wonder it looks like fart