Yeah, I had a quick look at the exploded view in the manual but it’s not very straightforward, it could be quite hard to read for someone who’s not in the know...so I thought f that lol :))
FZ6 07. I just did this repair and learned three things. 1) The split spacer that drops in before the seal must be forced into place to permit the seal to be properly installed with the retainer. 2) The best way to force the spacer and the seal home is a 14" piece of 3" ABS pipe cut lengthwise and held squeezed around the pipe. It is the perfect thickness to avoid damaging the seal and by putting a piece of wood across the top of the rig you can gently tap everything down evenly. 3) loosen the top cap and bottom hex bolt while still on the bike. That way you aren't trying to clamp or damage the pipe fighting to loosen them in the shop. A a pretty easy repair once you have a plan.
Great video..but there's a problem. When trying to undo allen bolt at base of fork, the whole mechanism goes round and round inside. With the top cap removed, now insert a long round block of wood, piece of wood needs to be correct diameter to fit the inside bolt mechanism to hold it firm whilst you undo allen bolt.
Sweet instructions. I got the front lowered on mine about 1.7 inches and the bike handles and turns in a lot better and quicker. The Geometry from the factory is front high/light imo which takes away from overall handling of these bikes
I do agree with you. If you are willing to sacrifice a bit of high speed stability then lowering the front is the easiest way to make the bike turn significantly quicker. me personally I don’t like messing around too much with the geometry.
Speaking of the FZ6, you also gain high speed stability (as far as you want to call its [real] max speed of 215km/h or 135mph "high speed" [stock speedo cheats a lot...]) by tipping geometry to the front. That bike really isn't that agile nor stable in stock level. If you're tall enough, it's better to raise the rear than lowering the front for more leaning clearance.
@@artlost85 Agreed, even though i loved the bike and it was fun but just wasn't enough for my personal riding pace both in power and handling as my prior bikes over the years were a couple of CBR 1000's, Gsxs 750, ktmrc8r and a few others. I sold the fz6r a few months back and picked up a 22 gsxs 1000
Hi, the fork seals are a different size on a 2001 Fazer as far as I’m aware but the process of replacing the fork seals is pretty much the same. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Good luck mate! Before you dive into it measure the diameter of your fork tubes with a vernier caliper and do yourself a favour and buy a for seal driver that fits your fork tube, it will make your life soooooooo much easier. 🤝
@@TheGarage2018 Yes, there probably won´t be felt any difference... But from manufacturer are springs mounted by smaller pitchs down and its also intended in service manual. I think that the manufacturer had some reason to mount this springs in this manner. It was just an small remark... good luck man
It is true that in the manual it is stated the position the spring needs to be mounted. Mechanically it makes no difference that I know. I will do some research why the manufacturers recommend mounting the springs with unequal pitch a certain way, I am very curious as well. As soon as I find out I will make a video. I do appreciate your input.
@@TheGarage2018 it makes sense to install the spring so that during small displacements, the undeformed part of the spring does not become an unsprung weight.
I’m based in the UK and I usually order my motorbike parts from Wemoto. For all of you that are based in Germany I strongly recommend to check out Motomike.eu, I’m not entirely sure but I think motomike also ships all across Europe. Another great place to buy parts and accessories from is louis.eu which also ships all across Europe or Louis-Moto.co.uk for UK. All of the above offer warranty and have a fantastic return policy.
Best video so far! You didn't follow the manual for the procedure, you showed an even better way to do it. Keep it up buddy!
Yeah, I had a quick look at the exploded view in the manual but it’s not very straightforward, it could be quite hard to read for someone who’s not in the know...so I thought f that lol :))
Thx for the comment dude.
FZ6 07. I just did this repair and learned three things. 1) The split spacer that drops in before the seal must be forced into place to permit the seal to be properly installed with the retainer. 2) The best way to force the spacer and the seal home is a 14" piece of 3" ABS pipe cut lengthwise and held squeezed around the pipe. It is the perfect thickness to avoid damaging the seal and by putting a piece of wood across the top of the rig you can gently tap everything down evenly. 3) loosen the top cap and bottom hex bolt while still on the bike. That way you aren't trying to clamp or damage the pipe fighting to loosen them in the shop. A a pretty easy repair once you have a plan.
Can't believe a video this well produced only has 330 views
thank you as this will be very useful soon
Glad it was helpful!
Hello very nice video. What kind of bolt is down to the fork where the oil come out from there?
Great videos only on this channel. I love it.
Thanks!
nice video .what oil use ?10/40 0r 5/30??
NICE Video, very well done! Thank you
Great video..but there's a problem. When trying to undo allen bolt at base of fork, the whole mechanism goes round and round inside. With the top cap removed, now insert a long round block of wood, piece of wood needs to be correct diameter to fit the inside bolt mechanism to hold it firm whilst you undo allen bolt.
Same happened to me on one fork. I just used an impact drill, and it came right out.
Sweet instructions. I got the front lowered on mine about 1.7 inches and the bike handles and turns in a lot better and quicker. The Geometry from the factory is front high/light imo which takes away from overall handling of these bikes
I do agree with you. If you are willing to sacrifice a bit of high speed stability then lowering the front is the easiest way to make the bike turn significantly quicker. me personally I don’t like messing around too much with the geometry.
Speaking of the FZ6, you also gain high speed stability (as far as you want to call its [real] max speed of 215km/h or 135mph "high speed" [stock speedo cheats a lot...]) by tipping geometry to the front. That bike really isn't that agile nor stable in stock level. If you're tall enough, it's better to raise the rear than lowering the front for more leaning clearance.
@@artlost85 Agreed, even though i loved the bike and it was fun but just wasn't enough for my personal riding pace both in power and handling as my prior bikes over the years were a couple of CBR 1000's, Gsxs 750, ktmrc8r and a few others. I sold the fz6r a few months back and picked up a 22 gsxs 1000
What weight fork oil did you use. Yamaha says use Yamaha #1 , but what "W" value is that?
Awesome video 👍🏾💯🏍🇬🇧
Thank you!
Please make a video to show your garage and your equipment
Maybe I will in the near future. At the moment the garage is a huge mess, I need to tidy things up a bit first lol.
It is not clear how you insert the first seal.
I have Fazer 2001. its the same?
Hi, the fork seals are a different size on a 2001 Fazer as far as I’m aware but the process of replacing the fork seals is pretty much the same. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@TheGarage2018 Thank you so much 👍🏻😁
I have one too, tomorrow I'll try my best to change the seals and the oil :) Wish me luck
Good luck mate! Before you dive into it measure the diameter of your fork tubes with a vernier caliper and do yourself a favour and buy a for seal driver that fits your fork tube, it will make your life soooooooo much easier. 🤝
the spring has to be other way round, smaller pitch must be facing down.
I have to disagree with you I'm afraid. Which direction you mount the spring makes no difference whatsoever.
@@TheGarage2018 Yes, there probably won´t be felt any difference... But from manufacturer are springs mounted by smaller pitchs down and its also intended in service manual. I think that the manufacturer had some reason to mount this springs in this manner. It was just an small remark... good luck man
It is true that in the manual it is stated the position the spring needs to be mounted. Mechanically it makes no difference that I know. I will do some research why the manufacturers recommend mounting the springs with unequal pitch a certain way, I am very curious as well. As soon as I find out I will make a video. I do appreciate your input.
@@TheGarage2018 it makes sense to install the spring so that during small displacements, the undeformed part of the spring does not become an unsprung weight.
Wide springs down, narrow springs up is correct. Explanation is physics.
How can you tell the forks needed new seals?
You'll see the oil leak also maybe brake pads are going to turn oily, therefore front brakes going to be not reliable.
Where can I get the parts cheaply? ✌🏼
I’m based in the UK and I usually order my motorbike parts from Wemoto. For all of you that are based in Germany I strongly recommend to check out Motomike.eu, I’m not entirely sure but I think motomike also ships all across Europe. Another great place to buy parts and accessories from is louis.eu which also ships all across Europe or Louis-Moto.co.uk for UK. All of the above offer warranty and have a fantastic return policy.
@@TheGarage2018 Thank you for the quick answer 🙋🏻♂️🔝🔝🔝🔝
No problem, I hope it helped.
Thank you Sir!
You are welcome!
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