Yamaha FZ6R: Fork Rebuild Tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2021
- In this tutorial, I go step-by-step with the factory service manual from start to finish to rebuild a leaky fork. All tools, parts, and procedures are discussed in great detail. Leave any questions in the comments below, or email me.
FREE channel logo decals, email me your mailing address!
hcumotovlogs@gmail.com
Insta: halfclickup
Like, COMMENT, Subscribe!!! - บันเทิง
I think you forgot to put back the washer between the outer tube bushing and fork seal?
VERY astute observation!! I caught that mistake in real-time and did a quick disassembly/reassembly off-camera. Talk about avoiding a disaster at the time! 😅
Great job and very informative
Muy buen video muy bien ejecutado el trabajo muy profesional un saludo desde Getafe España muchas gracias por ser tan humilde y autentico😊
Your video helped me removed and replaced all the pieces very well explained video thanks a lot 👊
@@martinayala7759 glad my content helped you brudda! 😎🤙
so happy i found you channel!
Just bought a 2007 yamaha fz6 a couple days ago, she's got 5700 miles and i'm looking forward to learning how to do maintenance from your channel!
Congrats on your bike purchase and welcome aboard! The FZ6 and FZ6R are about 85% identical, so most of my maintenance tutorials will apply to your bike as well, just be sure to download an FZ6 factory service manual and you’ll be good.
you could use super high grit sand paper on the tubes before reassembly - i.e. 2500 grit. to smoothen the scratches and remove the grime. It would not harm the chrome, it would be just a 10 seconds action on each tube.
Man that’s good to know.. I’ve never heard of that being a smoothing option. Nice!
"Sketchy BUT functional!" - Hahaha. Oh man, hCu. That's my new favorite saying.
Functionality is key in all things brotha!! 😬👌
Doing this on my FZ6 today. I've watched your video about 3 times now 😄 Thanks for the tutorial 💯🏍
Glad my content is helping you out bro! Thanks for watching! 😎🤙
legend🎉exactly what i was looking for. thanks
Happy to help! 😎🤙
Great video video
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps you with your project! 👍
Absolutely awesome thank you so much for your tutorial looks like you had a lot of fun doing it got a little dirty little dirt never hurt! Now I'm looking forward to hearing about the test ride!
Wheels will be ready for pickup tomorrow afternoon, and I plan on riding the Fizzer every day for the rest of the week to get a feel for her new handling characteristics. Hope the tutorial helps you in the future!
awsome
😎🤙
I was just wondering yesterday if you had done your forks yet. Trackday is right around the corner!!!
Admittedly I’m running out of time. I still need to change the oil and advance the timing, as well as get seat time to evaluate any changes in handling, not to mention quickly trial run the forward facing camera setup that I still have yet to install. I’ll be working after dark tonight and tomorrow night. Will be getting the freshly mounted Dunlops back tomorrow and have the bike on the street for Wednesday. Already have my U-Haul trailer reserved for Saturday pickup.
Good man
Thank you for watching, sir 🙏
@@HalfClickUpForreal though. Super comprehensive, clear audio/video, youve got a great demeanor and the bikes the same year as mine. really good stuff.
@@colemancarson8118 man that really means a lot! Some folks don’t understand that filming these types of tutorials literally doubles the amount of time it takes to do a job like this. Thank you for recognizing my efforts, I appreciate you!
Cool tutorial dude👏👏 let us know how the bike feels when you ride it after changing the fork oil 👍 I am sure it will feel different and hopefully more responsive 😊 The old fork oil was proper bad 😱 hope you and family are well 👍
Hey thanks Jim! I’ll certainly record my reaction to the suspension. Thanks for watching!
@@HalfClickUp No worries dude 👍 I have 2 names Joe M. and you wrote back to me 'Thanks Jim' 😂😂😂 it isnt a problem 👍 just tought it was funny 😂😂 I have changed the name to Joe M as it looks like it is JIM but it is actually JM 😋 look forward to the video about the new fork oil performance 😊
@@JRYDER13 dang man, I’m gonna just blame that on autocorrect then! LOL 😂
@@HalfClickUpthat is funny 😂😂😂
Thank you for this video ! I am the original owner of a 2012 FZ6R with about 55K miles. For most of its life, this motorcycle has been in a covered non-garage area, unfortunately as a result it has accumulated a degree of rust - especially in the area of the front forks and steering stem. Of course I found your video because the shop I had been going to recommended a fork rebuild and steering bearing replacement after they replaced my new front tire (labor only for $180 ouch !). Anyway, I am going to try to do the work myself. I’m over 65, not a complete novice, but I’ve never done anything like this before. Your excellent video has taken most of my fears away. For this new adventure, besides ordering parts and upgrading my tool collection, I acquired a used 2009 Yamaha Service manual which I believe should work for this job and many others. What caught my attention however were a few sentences contained in the IMPORTANT information section on the first page. Here is the gist and the basis for my upcoming question: “This manual was produced by Yamaha…primarily for use by Yamaha dealers and their qualified mechanics…anyone who uses this book to perform maintenance and repairs…should have a basic understanding of mechanics and the techniques to repair these types of vehicles. Repair and maintenance work attempted by anyone without this knowledge is likely to render the vehicle unsafe and unfit for use.” The very next page contrasts all that with the following: “This manual is intended as a handy, easy-to-read reference book for the mechanic. Comprehensive explanations of all installation, removal, disassembly, assembly, repair and check procedures are laid out with the individual steps in sequential order.” So here’s my question, I know nothing is absolute, but if I carefully follow all the instructions in the manual along with common sense and ’guidance’ found in your video, shouldn’t I be ok ? Again, thank you for this great video, very instructive, and well done.
Hello Sir! Thank you for the kind words, I am glad that you find my content helpful! With regards to your question, understand that all corporations need to have some sort of liability statement when it comes to the potential for committing errors whilst performing complex work. The second statement you reference certainly holds true, and my success with using this service manual is the proof. I’m no mechanic, but I can read, as can you. Basic mechanical knowledge and comprehension is really all it takes to successfully apply the procedures for all maintenance outlined in the service manual. The most important element, as you’ve already addressed, is having the proper tools. Like you, I have accumulated specialty tools for this bike over many years. Be confident, take your time, and you’ll have no issues. Feel free to reach out to me anytime with any procedural questions. Contact me directly at hcumotovlogs@gmail.com and I’ll assist you in any way I can. Thanks again for watching my stuff!
@@HalfClickUp I'm so confused. I bought what I thought was a BikeMaster Damper Rod Holding Tool, the 1/2" 15mm-25mm size. I measured it with my Vernier Caliper and the smallest point of the four sided male end is approx 15mm and the largest part closest to the rounded base is 24+mm. The circular base that houses the 1/2" female ratchet opening is 36mm. But when I stick it into the fork tube, it fits neatly inside the fork tube (which I measured has a 38mm diameter), but doesn't go in very far. It seems to stop right at the top of the damper rod (which appears to have a smaller inside diameter than 36mm). From what I can see by. shining a light down inside, the damper rod appears to have a smooth circle opening, no four sided opening, nor any straight edges at all in sight. What the heck am I doing wrong ? I'm so confused. I am the original owner of this 2012 FZ6R (with 54K miles) and I don't recall anyone ever working on the forks -- which is why I am having to rebuild them at this point in time. Anything you can suggest. Thank you in advance !!
@@GnRKauai your observations of the damper rod’s smooth circular shape are correct. The reason for the tool’s squared-off shape is to create four friction points for grabbing inside that circle. There is no positive “locking” effect or anything to make it easy. You must apply great pressure with that damper rod tool to make it “bite” with its squared edges inside the end of the rod while you blip on the bottom retaining bolt with an impact.
@@HalfClickUp When I watch your video it doesn't look like you're applying great pressure, but wow...I will try again. crazy.
Holy $hit...it worked on one of the two !! You're a genius. I'll keep trying on the other one. Thank you !!!
Mine has a little "rigth" turn to go straight. Forks are OK. How can I align them? No hits, no bend, all is OK. Regards.
Loosen all the bolts on the upper and lower tree and give the forks a few hard pulls till it straightens the way you want it. Retighten all triple tree bolts to spec.
@@HalfClickUp Thank you! I'll try.
Nice video, thanks. Do you have the details on the damper rod tool? Looking to order one and the prices vary from $25 - $140.
The Bikemaster 15mm-25mm holding tool ($26.42) at Revzilla, a few long extensions attached together, and a cheap electric impact gun from Harbor Freight is the combo I used.
@@HalfClickUp Awesome, thanks for the help
can you provide me detail dimension
of the outer tube bushing and inner tube bushing (inner Diamenter , Outer diameter and Length of each)
Hey buddy I'm sorry, but I don't have any spare bushings on-hand that I could measure for you. If you reference the parts on Partzilla.com's blow-out diagrams, there are pictures of them next to a ruler for size reference, and the outside diameter appears to be 1 and 7/8 inches.
Easy method - remove the plastic protector. Geesh.
And the way to get the fixed bush fitted.... just gently heat the slider using a torch, then the bush just drops into place. And then grease the seal inside & outside and gently drive in. Use red rubber grease, not lithium. And don't "drive" the dust seal in - it should just press in place.
Replace plastic protector. Geesh.
And, you really should measure the oil using either a ruler or even better a measured tube and syringe.Too much oil is not good and might make matters worse (lock the compression), too little oil might lead to air being damped on rebound. Every manufactuer, Yamaha included, uses a measurement, the volume is just a guide.
Use yellow impact driver to loosen bottom damper bolt - beats red any day.
Advice for all: always keep a short length of acetal rod (10mm dia) to use as a drift.... drift off those plastic protectors. Acetal does not scratch easily as a screwdriver.
Thanks for the tips.
Sketchy but functional, damn you just described my life , lol
Livin’ on the edge bro 😆
Hi, question. I'm planning to change fork oil and I don't know to go for 5W or 10W. I know what manual says, but I'm riding a bit aggressive 🤣 Just wanted to know what changes did you feel after changing in to 10W? Is it not too hard for bumps and does it helped with stability in corners on track day for you? Thanks 👍
I’ve been happy with 10W. It’s very responsive during turn entry on the track and not too harsh on the street.
@@HalfClickUp is it possible to drag knee on fz6 at all? 🙄😁
@@Aivaras83 of course, you just need to install R6 rear sets.
I think this is the same exact forks for the yzf600r as well. Correct?
I don’t know for sure, but most likely yes.
Hey how much oil did you put in I’m using a 15w and dealer told me to put 600ml in each fork but now it’s to stiff?
15W is a very thick fork oil. Factory is 5W, and I went with Motul Expert 10W for better track performance. That very thick weight fork oil may contribute to your issue, but be advised that 600ml translates to just over 20oz of fluid. The factory service manual provides for two methods of fluid fill: 16 US oz. or a fill level of 4.5” from the top of the fork without the spring inside. I went with the 4.5” measurement option. Your forks each have about 4oz too much oil inside.
Ok thank you I will drain some out in the morning I don’t know y the dealer told me this and gave me a 15w its same brand as yours
I have to ask, did you forget to put the top washer back in before you put the new seal in?
It’s okay I just read an earlier comment…..but the video was most helpful…thanks
@@yzf750rukt yep!! Details in the pinned comment. Good catch, though!!
Are you using a 3/8 or 1/2 damper rod holder??
1/2”
Dang wish you would of made this 2 months ago when I redid my 12 fz6r only vid I found was a good one by ridethe6
Yep I almost didn’t bother making this tutorial because the one by Ridethe6 was so thorough! Y’all know me, though, if I’m gonna tear it apart, I’m gonna film it 😉
I’m glad ya did ! Definitely more step by step with the manual and correct tools just wish I woulda used motul
@@johnvergith1738 Motul ALL the things! 😎🤙
If the bike master damper tool is sold out everywhere what do I use?
Old school options include notching the end of a 1”x1” long wooden stake, as well as broom handles. Sounds crazy but they’re verified to work and you’re presently out of options. 👍
@@HalfClickUp I heard Yamaha Vmax riders used a 24mm hex head socket since he said is the exact same thing as YM-01326 tool. The problem is I didn’t realize how expensive the motion pro 41mm tool was its $70 CDN which defeats the purpose of saving money haha. (Dealership quoted $440 for labour and $241 for parts required. So by the time I buy all the tools Im only saving $80 CDN)
@@MJT-DA that hex head socket is worth a shot for sure! Then all you’ll need is a few extensions.. or one really long one. I used what I had available at the time (two or three snapped together).
Is it 41mm on a 2013 too or is it different cause of the year
41mm for all years of production 👍
Sorry but where did you print your manual at I need one for a 2013
@@cyco830 the FZ6R was mechanically identical for all 8 years of production.
Here you go:
www.manualslib.com/manual/761240/Yamaha-Fz6rc.html
Awesome video but that damper rod holding tool is near impossible to get!
I know man.. it was on back order at Revzilla for a long time before I managed to get one. Have you checked eBay? You may end up needing to fashion a custom one out of a wooden dowel or broom handle. It can be done.
@@HalfClickUp ebay has one from the UK lol, might end up having to pay for that, but might try the wood dowel idea first. Thanks!
@@johnbaptise2262 well look at it this way, you’d get it in the mail from the UK before it would ever become available again in the States 😆👌
@@HalfClickUp 😂😂 valid point
If I ride out to Texas, could you do mines!? 😩 lol
Yeah man, we’ll film it, too 😬
@@HalfClickUp now we’re talking! 😎
Hey could you please share the work manual
www.manualslib.com/manual/761240/Yamaha-Fz6rc.html
Thanks so much bro
Da li se teoretski moze skinuti gornji cep i isisati staro ulje pomocu pumpe i usiti novo?
Yes:
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/motion-pro-fork-oil-level-gauge/?gclid=CjwKCAjw36GjBhAkEiwAKwIWyQX8-pSkoxu-Wv8fKD2ZzYMAexvY-9H6dRw18vxfOr4KDMz8_isWnRoCoe0QAvD_BwE
@@HalfClickUp znaci moglo bi se tako?
@@HalfClickUp ❤️
Da li znate koliko ide u yamaha xy6n 2009 godina...4.4 dcl?..5 or10w20/30
@@zvonkohorvat4461 yes that Motion Pro tool has a pump that allows you to remove or add oil as required, and it includes a measuring stick so that you can know how much oil you have inside the fork.
Damn dude, that is some dirty fork oil. Definately overdue. 10W is what I went with too on my rebuild. Alot more firm now. Your bushings look pretty good tho.
Yeah I don’t know that it was even functional anymore as far as oils are concerned 😳
"bottom one is a 5/16" Well, 8mm, but close enough.
Meh. Details 🤷🏻♂️
5/16 is .3125 and 8mm is .315.
They're as close to exactly the same as fasteners tend to get.
Wonder how u still not hired by yahama
Put in a good word for me brotha 😉👌
@@HalfClickUp sure, bio will give your yt link😉