I've owned my 2007 FZ6S2 for three years 20000 miles on her. I've learned more about my bike by watching your videos than from the manual. Thank you. Great work!
3 year (and still going) FZ6 owner here, can verify every single one of these tips. Apart from no.2, I've done all of these, strongly recommend. Thank you for your awesome vids, keep it up :D
I find it helpful to spray brake cleaner or carb & choke cleaner down the cable to break down any schmoo/old grease/dirt and grime that may have coagulated in there. Then use compressed air to blow it on through and out the other end of the cable housing, reapplying brake cleaner as necessary. Once it doesn't appear any more old oil or brake cleaner is coming out the other end (ie all brake cleaner has been flushed out evaporated from the housing), then I add the oil and push it through with compressed air. Very thorough lubricating of the cable, quick and easy. Works a treat, and has helped me salvage plenty of grabby or sized cables.
have to say, i stumble on ur vids a few months ago, bought an FZ6 few weeks ago just because i trust u and ur vids to keep the bike maintained. this bike is a unicorn in my country, so to have ur vids as guidance means a lot to me. thanks dude
Gr8 tips thanks. 2:00 you can use like 3 hose clamps and slip a rubber hose over the cable and even glue it on with RTV silicone or a quick set adhesive. tape or zip tie the cable vertical and fill with 10w30 0w20 etc engine oil and leave it overnight and oil will come out on the clutch end. Cable will easily last over 50K miles. Alternative is to tilt the bike and turn handle bars to the right and put drops of 3 in 1 or air tool oil in the slot and squeeze clutch lever to work in oil (NO NEED TO DISCONNECT CABLE) with this second method - but does not work on all bikes.
I am about to buy one day after tomorrow 15th sept 2023, thank you for the great tips! This is a totally new bike for me, a couple of unknowns.thanks man!
If you press the Select button on the instrument cluster it goes from Odometer/ Trip 1/ Trip 2/ RPM The last one will give you a digital readout of the RPM which should be between 1250 and 1350 when idling. If you can't get a smooth reading and it keeps jumping all over the place, you probably need to balance your Throttle Bodies.
Appreciate your page and glad I found it! Just picked up a 09 fz6 and I thought it was the battery causing the issue. Through your charging video I found that my stator was burnt and had an ohm reading of 0! Replacing it and the rectifier tomorrow!
Hey man, your "how to change coolant" video saved me during a 1200 km trip I had the past weekend with my fz6 (radiator hoses broke during the trip and I had to fix it with rubber). I wasn't sure if the main coolant deposit was below the gas tank, but your video told me that refiling it through the radiator was fine. I was able to go back home thanks to you. Already subbed and please keep it up, you're the best ✌
Thank you very much, I’ll check that. Please show details as where to find the clutch cable and throttle cable on the engine even though it seems obvious as everything is all new to me, thank you.
I've had my 07 fz-6 for almost 4 years and ran into that battery problem due to the low idle rpm. What a life saver that simple fix was for my bike. Awesome videos!
I’ve been watching you’re videos when I had an FZ1, and after it got totaled I found an FZ6… now I’ve watched nearly all your FZ6 vids. Hopefully I can figure it out why mines running so hot
Good luck! I’ve heard of radiators getting clogged and causing over heating issues. Also ensure you check the coolant temp sensor is reading correctly. Try using a temp probe or infrared sensor to confirm the bike is the temp it says it is. Video on the coolant temp sensor linked below Link: th-cam.com/video/DJNmyALGWRc/w-d-xo.html
Was about to do Battery leads for a charger (saves a lot of hassle with the tank, especially manoeuvring it around the fairing.) Battery died so I got a lithium ion one. So much better in so many ways.
The battery tender cable tip... i can give you i think a better tip. This is what i do., without removing anything, no tank, not even seat... i access the AC Regulator of the bike under the seat, with one hand you can access the regulator connector. you disconnect the regulator, and you will five 5 pins, the 3 AC Magneto Pins, and the postive and negative pins that goes to the battery directly. You can put a regular pin on the female positive end, and you can use the negative end too, but i prefer to use the bike chasis, so i just the the positive end. Then i connect my battery chager to the chasis and the regulator end as stated, and ... works perfectly
Hey Calvin, could you make a video about how to remove the fuel tank completely? I have some questions - is it really necessary to dump all the fuel and how do you disconnect all those things from the pump under the tank. I would really appreciate it! :)
Hey there, you don't need to remove the fuel from the tank to take the tank off. The tank has two vent hoses which slide off easily, along with two electrical connections plus the fuel line. The fuel line is a quick disconnect that doesn't require tools. You pull off a black retaining clip on top of the fuel line connection then use your fingers to squeeze the grey squares on either side of the fuel line to spread the plastic retaining clip that holds the fuel line on. You have to have some strong fingers but as you squeeze the sides of the connector pull and wiggle the hose until it releases. You'll want to cover the fuel pump attached to the tank with a finger once the hose is off just to prevent drips. Place the tank somewhere soft on its side just be mindful that fuel isn't leaking out the top fill point. Check out my air filter video for some shots of removing the tank: th-cam.com/video/jJ342O31ag4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CalvinMC Good luck!
I used to have battery issues since the guy who owned the bike before bridged the 2nd headlight so both would be always on. This is not legal and the battery drained from it. Changed it back and battery issue was solved 😅
I have a bridged second headlight as well, I’ve thought about removing it to reduce the load on the charging system but it seems to be ok so far. Glad you got your sorted out!
I left for a week and my buddy had my bike now it’s revving high doesn’t want to do faster speeds it’s screaming at lower speeds higher than usual and doesn’t want to go over more than 110. It just doesn’t seem as fast as it was any help or knowledge to what’s going on why is it revving high it’s usually settles at the 4 or 5 mark now it’s like 6 or 7
Thanks for another great video man. Have you ever changed the O2/fuel sensore (aka lambada sensor) on your bike. After how many miles should you change that? I have a 2005 FZ6. Thanks!
I have the same bike, but having issues. It suddenly died one day and never started back up. It will crank, but not start. It shows the codes 12 13 30 46. Nuetral doesn't even show so I am trying to change out the Nuetral safety switch, but can't figure out how to get to it.
Sounds like a ground cable came loose. Those codes you have are unrelated to each other, as in they are apart of several different systems. There is a ground on the back of the dash display to check and there is a ground on top of the transmission if I remember correctly. You're looking for a black electrical cable attached to the engine with a allen head bolt (I think it's an allen iirc). It would make sense that it cranks but not start if you lost a ground because the starter grounds through the engine to the chassis separately from the harness ground. Even if your neutral switch was bad you should be able to start the bike in any gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Best of luck.
@@Calvinm Followed all of the wires and everything is how it should be, no cuts, pinches, or breaks. Disconnected the battery then reconnected it, now it doesn't show any codes. Would popping the clutch be a good way to get it started since I can't get it started by the start button?
Hy from Turkey Calvin. İ have 05 fazer. İ like too much my bike. So i have question for you if i. Some adjustable option in diagnostic panel if you can see. İts 'CO adjust. İm looking for google whit this adjust but i can not understude how its work or how its make it. İ mean its name is CO = Carbondiokside. And you can adjusted it -30 0 30+. İf you know any moment about this, can you recieved some video? sry my eng. thx every fz6 videos ❤
I have a fz6 09 that is showing poor fuel economy. The fuel reserve indicator starts blinking after about 180km on my odo. Tyre pressure are kept at optimum, front, rear sprockets n chain are pretty new. No issues with acceleration or throttle response. What is your fuel consumption like? How far can you go before the reserve starts blinking?
My reserve light (f trip) comes on around 230km on a tank of city and highway. Make sure you’re filling your tank all the way, I trickle more gas in once it reaches the bottom of the basket at the top of the tank.
I wouldn't recommend it. The synthetic chain lube I use thickens up as it dries which wouldn't be good inside your clutch cable. Regular wax based chain lube might work but honestly any engine oil would be better.
Hey Calvin, thanks for the vids - very helpful - regarding the idle speed / charging I read somewhere that the FZ6 engine only charges the battery at 4.000 rpm and above. Does the idle speed really have much of an effect on battery health ? The battery tender fixes that anyways.
Hey Jamie, the FZ6 charging system is always trying to charge the battery regardless of the rpm. At 5000rpm the engine is spinning fast enough to generate max charging voltage of 15 volts. If you put a multimeter on the battery with the engine running you’ll see there is a slight, yet important, difference in charging voltage around the idle speed of the bike. A low idle would mean the bike would be under producing electricity to charge the battery. This leads to a bit of drain on the electrical system since the engine is spinning below the target rpm and therefore not generating as much electricity. Hope this helps.
How were you able to drive it with 900 rpm idle o.O? It must've run like a tractor lol. When my idle was too low my bike would die after releasing the throttle too quickly - for example, emergency braking.
Comparing this moto in terms of "problems" to others, would you say that this motorcycle has a lot of them? Im looking to buy my first bike and i need help 😢
Ya it wasn't fun, I swear I'm cursed...haha. 65k miles is getting up there but I've heard of some FZ6's getting passed 100k miles so I think you've still got lots of life left!
Good day sir, im just curious of my fz6n 2008 i just buy it second hand, is it normal when you reach 170kph the vibration was to much most specially in front tnx
170kph is pretty quick. At those speeds it’s often a wheel balance issue that causes a vibration. Many people say that around 200kph the FZ6 feels a little shaky/squirrely.
Press the Select button to go between Odometer/ Trip 1/ Trip 2/ RPM If you press Reset on Trip 1 or Trip 2, it will zero them out. Personally I always leave it on Trip 1 and reset it every time I fill up with petrol, so I know how many miles it will be before I need to tank up again 🙂
Go to the Dynojet website. Search for 09 fz6 power commander 5 . Next, scroll down to the downloads and click installation guide. Scroll down to figure F. It is the pink wire on the three pin white connector under the gas tank. Good luck.
It won't last as long as engine oil does. Since it's tough to find aerosol spray engine oil, you can get some livestock syringes and use those to push motor oil down the cable sheath and they are infinitely reusable. I've used the same syringe for this for 15 years.
Soon! Although I ride in the rain so I have a hard time dedicating an afternoon to cleaning headers that I know will look dirty soon again. But I’m gonna find some autosol and give it a shot
LOL you said having your idol set properly with a solved your charging issues if you're having charging issues it would more than likely point to an intermittent problem with the regulator rectifier and or stator you know that so why did you say otherwise 🤷🏼♂️
Because you can have a perfectly fine stator and rectifier but still not get enough voltage at idle because your idle is low. Electrical potential is based on how fast the engine is spinning when below 5k rpm. A low idle will cause the bike to struggle to maintain charge at idle.
I've owned my 2007 FZ6S2 for three years 20000 miles on her. I've learned more about my bike by watching your videos than from the manual. Thank you. Great work!
That’s awesome! 👍
3 year (and still going) FZ6 owner here, can verify every single one of these tips. Apart from no.2, I've done all of these, strongly recommend. Thank you for your awesome vids, keep it up :D
Thank you! 👍
Fellow FZ6 user here, really appreciate your insight and the quality of your videos. Thanks man.
Thanks for the kind comment! 👍
I find it helpful to spray brake cleaner or carb & choke cleaner down the cable to break down any schmoo/old grease/dirt and grime that may have coagulated in there. Then use compressed air to blow it on through and out the other end of the cable housing, reapplying brake cleaner as necessary. Once it doesn't appear any more old oil or brake cleaner is coming out the other end (ie all brake cleaner has been flushed out evaporated from the housing), then I add the oil and push it through with compressed air. Very thorough lubricating of the cable, quick and easy. Works a treat, and has helped me salvage plenty of grabby or sized cables.
Good tip!
have to say, i stumble on ur vids a few months ago, bought an FZ6 few weeks ago just because i trust u and ur vids to keep the bike maintained. this bike is a unicorn in my country, so to have ur vids as guidance means a lot to me. thanks dude
So happy to hear this! I hope you enjoy the FZ6 and all it’s rev happy glory 👍
Gr8 tips thanks. 2:00 you can use like 3 hose clamps and slip a rubber hose over the cable and even glue it on with RTV silicone or a quick set adhesive. tape or zip tie the cable vertical and fill with 10w30 0w20 etc engine oil and leave it overnight and oil will come out on the clutch end. Cable will easily last over 50K miles. Alternative is to tilt the bike and turn handle bars to the right and put drops of 3 in 1 or air tool oil in the slot and squeeze clutch lever to work in oil (NO NEED TO DISCONNECT CABLE) with this second method - but does not work on all bikes.
I am about to buy one day after tomorrow 15th sept 2023, thank you for the great tips! This is a totally new bike for me, a couple of unknowns.thanks man!
If you press the Select button on the instrument cluster it goes from Odometer/ Trip 1/ Trip 2/ RPM
The last one will give you a digital readout of the RPM which should be between 1250 and 1350 when idling.
If you can't get a smooth reading and it keeps jumping all over the place, you probably need to balance your Throttle Bodies.
Appreciate your page and glad I found it! Just picked up a 09 fz6 and I thought it was the battery causing the issue. Through your charging video I found that my stator was burnt and had an ohm reading of 0! Replacing it and the rectifier tomorrow!
Happy to hear you identified your stator was done from my video! Good luck with the stator replacement 👍
Is the charging system/stator and rectifier a job that someone with no experience working on bikes can do?
@@ONEFAITHofJESUS It requires taking off the left engine side cover and removing some loctited bolts. It's fairly straight forward once inside.
Hey man, your "how to change coolant" video saved me during a 1200 km trip I had the past weekend with my fz6 (radiator hoses broke during the trip and I had to fix it with rubber). I wasn't sure if the main coolant deposit was below the gas tank, but your video told me that refiling it through the radiator was fine. I was able to go back home thanks to you.
Already subbed and please keep it up, you're the best ✌
That’s awesome man!! So glad the video helped you in a tough situation 👍 thank you! 😄
Thank you very much, I’ll check that. Please show details as where to find the clutch cable and throttle cable on the engine even though it seems obvious as everything is all new to me, thank you.
I've had my 07 fz-6 for almost 4 years and ran into that battery problem due to the low idle rpm. What a life saver that simple fix was for my bike. Awesome videos!
I’ve been watching you’re videos when I had an FZ1, and after it got totaled I found an FZ6… now I’ve watched nearly all your FZ6 vids. Hopefully I can figure it out why mines running so hot
Good luck! I’ve heard of radiators getting clogged and causing over heating issues. Also ensure you check the coolant temp sensor is reading correctly. Try using a temp probe or infrared sensor to confirm the bike is the temp it says it is. Video on the coolant temp sensor linked below
Link: th-cam.com/video/DJNmyALGWRc/w-d-xo.html
Was about to do Battery leads for a charger (saves a lot of hassle with the tank, especially manoeuvring it around the fairing.) Battery died so I got a lithium ion one. So much better in so many ways.
Your videos have helped me so much on my FZ6! Keep making more vids!
I’m glad the videos have helped! More to come soon!
love your vids man!! 👍🏽 The Fizzy community appreciate it bro!
Awesome! Thank you 😁
waiting for throttle cable change tutorial ;)
Great video!
Oh it’s in the works 👀 👍
Nice vid man, super helpful. Yeah I found the lube tool was a gimmick as well, good work around for it
Haha glad someone had the same experience with that tool as me 😅
Thank you for the weekly videos !!! You da man
The battery tender cable tip... i can give you i think a better tip.
This is what i do., without removing anything, no tank, not even seat... i access the AC Regulator of the bike under the seat, with one hand you can access the regulator connector.
you disconnect the regulator, and you will five 5 pins, the 3 AC Magneto Pins, and the postive and negative pins that goes to the battery directly.
You can put a regular pin on the female positive end, and you can use the negative end too, but i prefer to use the bike chasis, so i just the the positive end.
Then i connect my battery chager to the chasis and the regulator end as stated, and ... works perfectly
Good tip! Very smart of you to realize that.
The information I get from your videos is brilliant. Thank you young man. 👍😉
You're very welcome! Thanks for the kind comment.
Hey Calvin, could you make a video about how to remove the fuel tank completely? I have some questions - is it really necessary to dump all the fuel and how do you disconnect all those things from the pump under the tank. I would really appreciate it! :)
Hey there, you don't need to remove the fuel from the tank to take the tank off. The tank has two vent hoses which slide off easily, along with two electrical connections plus the fuel line. The fuel line is a quick disconnect that doesn't require tools. You pull off a black retaining clip on top of the fuel line connection then use your fingers to squeeze the grey squares on either side of the fuel line to spread the plastic retaining clip that holds the fuel line on. You have to have some strong fingers but as you squeeze the sides of the connector pull and wiggle the hose until it releases. You'll want to cover the fuel pump attached to the tank with a finger once the hose is off just to prevent drips. Place the tank somewhere soft on its side just be mindful that fuel isn't leaking out the top fill point.
Check out my air filter video for some shots of removing the tank:
th-cam.com/video/jJ342O31ag4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CalvinMC
Good luck!
I used to have battery issues since the guy who owned the bike before bridged the 2nd headlight so both would be always on. This is not legal and the battery drained from it. Changed it back and battery issue was solved 😅
I have a bridged second headlight as well, I’ve thought about removing it to reduce the load on the charging system but it seems to be ok so far. Glad you got your sorted out!
I left for a week and my buddy had my bike now it’s revving high doesn’t want to do faster speeds it’s screaming at lower speeds higher than usual and doesn’t want to go over more than 110. It just doesn’t seem as fast as it was any help or knowledge to what’s going on why is it revving high it’s usually settles at the 4 or 5 mark now it’s like 6 or 7
Thanks for another great video man. Have you ever changed the O2/fuel sensore (aka lambada sensor) on your bike. After how many miles should you change that? I have a 2005 FZ6. Thanks!
I respect this video. Well done.
Thank you! 👍
I have the same bike, but having issues. It suddenly died one day and never started back up. It will crank, but not start. It shows the codes 12 13 30 46. Nuetral doesn't even show so I am trying to change out the Nuetral safety switch, but can't figure out how to get to it.
Sounds like a ground cable came loose. Those codes you have are unrelated to each other, as in they are apart of several different systems. There is a ground on the back of the dash display to check and there is a ground on top of the transmission if I remember correctly. You're looking for a black electrical cable attached to the engine with a allen head bolt (I think it's an allen iirc). It would make sense that it cranks but not start if you lost a ground because the starter grounds through the engine to the chassis separately from the harness ground. Even if your neutral switch was bad you should be able to start the bike in any gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Best of luck.
@@Calvinm really appreciate it.
@@Calvinm Followed all of the wires and everything is how it should be, no cuts, pinches, or breaks. Disconnected the battery then reconnected it, now it doesn't show any codes. Would popping the clutch be a good way to get it started since I can't get it started by the start button?
@@Calvinm Also, what is the best way to get to the Nuetral safety sensor?
Hello Kevin. Can you Tell me please your settings for c1 and c2 value? Thank you
Hy from Turkey Calvin. İ have 05 fazer. İ like too much my bike. So i have question for you if i. Some adjustable option in diagnostic panel if you can see. İts 'CO adjust. İm looking for google whit this adjust but i can not understude how its work or how its make it. İ mean its name is CO = Carbondiokside. And you can adjusted it -30 0 30+.
İf you know any moment about this, can you recieved some video? sry my eng. thx every fz6 videos ❤
I have a fz6 09 that is showing poor fuel economy. The fuel reserve indicator starts blinking after about 180km on my odo. Tyre pressure are kept at optimum, front, rear sprockets n chain are pretty new. No issues with acceleration or throttle response. What is your fuel consumption like? How far can you go before the reserve starts blinking?
My reserve light (f trip) comes on around 230km on a tank of city and highway. Make sure you’re filling your tank all the way, I trickle more gas in once it reaches the bottom of the basket at the top of the tank.
Hi Calvin, was wondering if i could use chain lube for the clutch cable?😂
I wouldn't recommend it. The synthetic chain lube I use thickens up as it dries which wouldn't be good inside your clutch cable. Regular wax based chain lube might work but honestly any engine oil would be better.
How to change temperature degrees from Fahrenheit (°F) to Celcius (°C)?
Thanks so much!
Hey Calvin, thanks for the vids - very helpful - regarding the idle speed / charging I read somewhere that the FZ6 engine only charges the battery at 4.000 rpm and above. Does the idle speed really have much of an effect on battery health ? The battery tender fixes that anyways.
Hey Jamie, the FZ6 charging system is always trying to charge the battery regardless of the rpm. At 5000rpm the engine is spinning fast enough to generate max charging voltage of 15 volts. If you put a multimeter on the battery with the engine running you’ll see there is a slight, yet important, difference in charging voltage around the idle speed of the bike. A low idle would mean the bike would be under producing electricity to charge the battery. This leads to a bit of drain on the electrical system since the engine is spinning below the target rpm and therefore not generating as much electricity. Hope this helps.
How were you able to drive it with 900 rpm idle o.O? It must've run like a tractor lol. When my idle was too low my bike would die after releasing the throttle too quickly - for example, emergency braking.
Ya I don’t know how the bike survived honestly. I guess my ignorance was bliss 😅
Comparing this moto in terms of "problems" to others, would you say that this motorcycle has a lot of them? Im looking to buy my first bike and i need help 😢
No, the FZ6 is a reliable bike. Just a couple things to look out for and fix.
@@Calvinm awsome, ty for the fazt reply and your content is very handy. God bless m8
You got stranded? Bummer bud.
08 FZ6 1 owner, 65k miles feels a little long in the tooth, but going strong.
Ya it wasn't fun, I swear I'm cursed...haha. 65k miles is getting up there but I've heard of some FZ6's getting passed 100k miles so I think you've still got lots of life left!
Good day sir, im just curious of my fz6n 2008 i just buy it second hand, is it normal when you reach 170kph the vibration was to much most specially in front tnx
170kph is pretty quick. At those speeds it’s often a wheel balance issue that causes a vibration. Many people say that around 200kph the FZ6 feels a little shaky/squirrely.
I just got a 2009 fz6 , the odometer isnt showing the full mileage of the bike. It just shows trip A. How do i fix that ?
Press the Select button to go between Odometer/ Trip 1/ Trip 2/ RPM
If you press Reset on Trip 1 or Trip 2, it will zero them out. Personally I always leave it on Trip 1 and reset it every time I fill up with petrol, so I know how many miles it will be before I need to tank up again 🙂
What is the top rack that you use for you bike?
Here’s a video I made on the top and side cases I use.
Link: th-cam.com/video/Z7SrTs5UcuI/w-d-xo.html
Что за передний обтекатель у вас стоит?
Nice video!
Good Morning. i have a 2009 fz6n s2 motorcycle could help me pinpoint the location of the speed sensor?
Go to the Dynojet website. Search for 09 fz6 power commander 5 . Next, scroll down to the downloads and click installation guide. Scroll down to figure F. It is the pink wire on the three pin white connector under the gas tank. Good luck.
Hey guys, would WD40 work for lubing the clutch cable as good as the engine oil?
No
Can we use wd 40 to lube cable?
That would probably work, WD40 does have some lubricating properties.
It won't last as long as engine oil does. Since it's tough to find aerosol spray engine oil, you can get some livestock syringes and use those to push motor oil down the cable sheath and they are infinitely reusable. I've used the same syringe for this for 15 years.
Use som autosol on those headers!
Soon! Although I ride in the rain so I have a hard time dedicating an afternoon to cleaning headers that I know will look dirty soon again. But I’m gonna find some autosol and give it a shot
does wd 40 do the lubricant job?
Ya WD40 would be okay.
I like how this vid has 0 dislikes
This must be a great bike if it has only problems like that !
LOL you said having your idol set properly with a solved your charging issues if you're having charging issues it would more than likely point to an intermittent problem with the regulator rectifier and or stator you know that so why did you say otherwise 🤷🏼♂️
Because you can have a perfectly fine stator and rectifier but still not get enough voltage at idle because your idle is low. Electrical potential is based on how fast the engine is spinning when below 5k rpm. A low idle will cause the bike to struggle to maintain charge at idle.
Thanks!