Tensioners replacement apparently works with cold startup rattle, but not with a death rattle as u started video with. sorry, but appreciate your video. -- Do not prime, as the tensioner pushes against the chain guide, and U need to be able to depress the spring in the tensioner a bit when attempting to reinsert. Pre-oiling will make tensioner too stiff and cross-threading may result and lead to oil leaks. -- If U do not have a" feel" for rethreading in tight spaces, eg: spark plugs, do not attempt. Get someone else who has "the feel." -- Install dry as Ford recommends and, do a "flood start" procedure: press gas pedal to floor and crank for 4-5 seconds to build oil pressure, then release. -- high mileage engines with death rattle will need to be removed and all three timing chain cassettes replaced, as well as oil pickup sump cleaned of plastic debris. Big job that requires experience and some special Ford tools. -- Fellow blew a timing chain, and spent $4000 having engine repaired with new chains, heads, labour, etc, or take chances on used engine...?
I did my dad's a year ago. Dumbest part ever. They were so tight compressing it in by hand to get it started that it crossthreaded immediately. The thread wanted to engage right at that little oil hole and just destroyed the aluminum even starting it by hand. The engineer that came up with this should get the darwin award. Lets put a hardened spring tension bolt in a tight space directly into aluminum. Had to get a new head.
After hearing “like a peasant” and the fart sound, you tapped into my childhood of working on the old MGB with my dad when I was young. L&S “Don’t poop yourself like me” love it! Show me any cologne motor work you venture into!
Great video. Thanks! Really useful to see how the tensioners work and where they are located. My Landrover Discovery 3 has the same engine. Unfortunately I found that removing inner inner wheel arch mud guard on the Discovery does not give adequate access to the right hand side tensioner. You can see it, but the Discovery has two heat shields which prevent you getting a hand in there. The heat shields look like they were installed before the engine, so would be nigh on impossible to remove. PS/EDIT: I found that you can change the right hand side tensioner from above - it's actually quite easy. It's located a couple of inches behind the rear spark plug. After reading comments on here and seeing how stif the tensioner becomes when primed I decided to install it un-primed straight out of the packet (I used a Landrover branded part). When I started the engine there was a very brief clatter from the timing chain - like less than a second - before it came good, so it obviously primes very quickly. I'm deligthed to say that my timing chain rattle is cured!
IM IN THE PROCESS OF DIAGNOSSING ISSUE WITH MY 4.0 4X4. SOME OF THE CHAIN & CASSETTE REPLACEMENT KITS,SHOW THESE TENSIONERS AS PART OF THE KIT(WHEN CHANGED THESE TENSIONERS MUST HAVE O RING CHANGED TOO.) THIS VIDEO COULD BE CONFUSING, LEADING PEOPLE TO THINK THIS IS A FIX.I NOT SURE IT REALLY IS. IM THINKING ITS A SMALL PART OF A MUCH,MUCH MORE INVOLVED FIX.
Also have discovery 3. The balance shaft tensioner failed on mine. Managed to replace the front chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners with engine in. The rear chain will be a different story when it goes.
Good vid man, I'm about to do this job on my 05 explorer and this helped a lot Mines got a noise upon start up but then quickly goes away after oil has bin pumped up there. . in fact it only ever does it when it's cold so I'm thinking I should do this job now before she gets worse Sorry about the luck man but a great video
Did you change it, and did it become better during startup? Mine -99 rattles the first second after start, then it goes more silent. Wonder if this solve the problem, have been changing without positive result the last Explorer before this one.
That's what mine does on the passenger side one at the back of the engine, only at first start up, does fine the rest of the day when I start it, how much are y'all having to pay for those thing's in y'alls area?
@@turdpike I have another question, I have a good one that's for the front left side of the engine, the threads and the piston look just like the one for the right side rear of the engine, only difference I can see is, that long thing, would it be ok to use the one from the front? I inherited a few parts from my neaghbor
Did the front tensioner have a washer with it? The one I bought came with one and when I installed it it still rattles I think the washer may be spacing the tensioner from the chain.
My experience was it was rattling on start up when my daughter bought the car. My advise to her was lets change the tensioners (180k) on the motor its a preventive maintenance thing. Well...... what started as a quiet motor quickly turned in the sound this video is making... and i have no problems installing the tensioners....
I did this with cloyes replacements maybe two years ago and didn’t prime them. In the meantime I got some Ford replacements for cheap online from a dealership. For shits n giggles I tried priming them tonight because I was thinking of replacing the cloyes parts with the Ford ones sometime soon. I got stingy on oil and the left hand tensioner was being difficult and didn’t prime and I made a big mess so I just threw some shrink wrap over everything and guess I’ll waste more oil later.. at least the guides looked good when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and I’ve yet to see bits when I drop the pan. Always something going on with this damn truck,138k mi so far but I’m confident it’ll reach 200k. Would I buy another third gen? Probably, for extra parts, and a reman motor lol
2010 Ranger used 1 1/16 wrench on top and same socket on the bottom. Didn't take anything apart just unscrewed the top one and screwed the new one in. Took the wheel off left the rubber on. Easy peezy, 20 minutes.
For priming, I just disconnected the coil and cranked the starter until the oil pressure came up. Did not pre-prime the tensioners at all. Takes about 15 seconds or so. The problem with pre-priming is that they tend to stiffen-up and become problematic when trying to thread them back in. This leads to drastically increased risk of cross-threading those fine-pitch threads, between hardened steel and an aluminum head. No-brainer who wins that.
2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok. Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
La bomba de aceite lleva un check que no ayuda a mantener las líneas con aceite, si esa parte ya está dejando escapar la presión de la líneas y las vacía es muy probable que ya esté dañando. También hay una falla dónde el perno o algo así empuja la toma de aceite (pick up tube) entonces ya no hace la función de recolectar el aceite.
Hey at 4:01 did the original tensioners have washers/gaskets on them when you removed them? I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets...So 1.) did the original tensioners you removed have washers on them and 2.) If not then do you have to/can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks
I think it’s safe to say that it’s your lifters making that sound. If it was your timing chain tensioner the sound wouldn’t go away after the engine warms
Bit late here, but the SOHC 4L doesn’t have hydraulic lifters, and the sound goes away because it’s the spring in the tensioner that’s weak - when it’s hydraulically pressured it works as normal (or close to it)
@@dangilbert2579I’m having this same issues on my explorer same thing but I haven’t change absolutely anything and now I want to start with this same thing on the video !! My question is if this doesn’t resolve the issue like him what’s next ..? What’s next to be fixed .? Do you know
@Ricktwk1212 if its too late, the guides might have snapped or the chain might have stretched - next step would be replacing either one or both of those things
I found the easy way to prime these is to immerse in oil over the tiny hole on the side and push it down and hold it until you see air bubbles when you see air bubbles release it and push and hold, repeat until its primed. Takes about 3 minutes
I’m not even sure if priming is necessary. At least not completely. As you screw it in it pushes it in and the oil comes out anyway. I primed mine anyway. I submerged it in oil vertically and pushed it with a socket and extension. A cut plastic bottle would work.
too late for you but here ya go / from ford new the original left ( passenger side ) tensioner only has about a quarter of an inch of wiggle room ( travel )to the new cassette cartridge??? / I would suggest replacing the driver side tensioner with a new OEM from ford and then use the old one from the driver side to install on the passenger side as it has .200 more throw. and yes it does make a difference.
about to try this on my 06 as well. my noise is nowhere near as bad as this one. I just barely started noticing a slight tick at start up till its warm, then only a slight tick under heavy load at 3000 rpm. Im thinking the tensioners are done, but not badly enough to have had more damage done yet. hopefully, anyway lol. 291,000 kms on mine and they're original tensioners so.
Mine is backwards. I have a brand new remanufactured engine. ZERO rattle at startup, but when warm at idle i have (sounds like mables in a can of oil rattling), like a quiet diesel. With any throttle response, it goes away. Weird.
I'm thinking that priming the tensioners just makes them hard to install... If you put them in dry, and turn the engine over for 5 secs with the accelerator pedal down, that should do the priming, yes? btw, what brand where the replacement tensioners?
It wasn’t bad to install them with them being primed, just that one RH bank like I said felt a bit weird at first. Its true the oil pump should and will prime them eventually, but for what it’s worth I’d recommend priming them as who knows what could happen in those first few seconds that they are as dry as a fart. Maybe nothing, maybe skip time though as they aren’t tight enough. It’s just an insurance thing really in my head, won’t hurt anything if you do prime them but has the potential to hurt something if you don’t I think these were cheap Cloyes tensioners from Rock Auto.
@@turdpike I think he means turning the motor over with the starter only (better done by taking out the fuel pump relay) that way you can install easier but idk I'd rather do it by hand I guess
I had a failed oil filter that drained down after replacing timing chains, air was introduced in my 4.0 ranger causing the front tensioner to resist being pumped up, first attempt was done as in this video and while slightly improved required revisit. Try 2 was done by taking a 6inch pc of 1-1/2 pvc with encap as vessel to hold oil, dropped tensioner in plunger upward, used 3/4 pc with encap to depress plunger, tons of air came out, was over 5 minutes of cycling up n down until the tensioner became hard and no longer would depress.much less mess and added confidence air was removed.
That noise wouldn't be caused by the hydraulic tensioners. The entire nylon traction side of the cassette is gone, you've probably seen by now but if not you will once the engine comes out.
It's pathetic they use plastic/nylon guides inside this engine.... Pathetic of Ford... They designed it to break. High temp in an Engine... Never use plastic inside an engine...
Good video i did both was driving checked for leaks found none then following morning i can smell oil yup leaking i believe its coming from upper one bottom is dry gotta start by mabey tighten the upper one hope it works
Do those things lose their prime overnight when they go bad? Reason I ask is because I get the rattle at first start up, but it doesn't do it the rest of the day, only when I first start it in the morning
I know this is an old video but if anybody could respond would be much appreciated. Did you have to put it on top dead center before removing the tensioners? Thank you for
I don't know if you have any suggestion. But i replaced this piece (lower side tensioner) and after a few times driving it released the oil out of the spring and it left the thread on the outside of the engine. so there was oil on the ground and then when i started the truck it sounded like i had just replace an unprimed tensioner.. I fucking hate the rattling sound i just want drive the car into a wall instead of listen to that lol
@@turdpike yeah it’s leaking oil. I went back took it out primed it and tried to wrench it in tighter this time and it’s leaking again.. I wish they had a rubber seal. This sucks.
Your timing guides are probably destroyed. So that means have fun removing the engine to replace the all of them. There are two cartridge style, 1 for each head and then one for the lower main chain, then one for the balance shaft if you have one.
Good question! Couple reasons I didn’t, #1 (don’t tell my wife) at the time I was almost looking for an excuse to get rid of the Ranger and upgrade anyway, #2 besides the horrendous noise, it actually still continued to run/start just fine. I figured if in fact it had skipped time, that wouldn’t be the case
I know, second comment, but genuine question. I just did my top tensioner (with a couple tricks I found thanks to watching your repair first) but I am really confused. Was your right temp sensor plugged in or is it just my ST that seems to have no connector for it anywhere?
I assume your talking about the front one for my answer. I changed the thermostat housing on my 2006, and I noted the tensioner protrusion was never in the way of that install when I decide to remove . I needed to use my "Ford two finger squeeze" to start the threads on my temp sensor nearest the heater tube entry to install it. The front sensor is further away from the tensioner, so I expect it's not a problem. If I do change the tensioner, I can see it's angle in the block may force me to remove the housing to do unscrew it.
@@mikehoffman4131 Ironically I wound up doing the nightmarish timing job and pulling the motor to do so, came to find out I have only one sensor connector, but two sensors. Tested them and both are operational, so I guess my '05 was blessed with a spare from the previous owner(s)
@@XDLaughPLUR just a regular 27mm wrench. It didn't help with noise. It make it worse because chain guides were broken. My car was a 2003 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 engine.
@@George-fh9zm thanks for the reply. I have a 2001 explorer sport and i believe starting in 2003 or late 2002 they moved a lot of things around in the engine bay even though it was still the sohc v6, based on a few videos i watched. Is this correct?
@@George-fh9zm i may be mistaken but I believe there are 3 tensioners total? 2 of them as shown in these series of videos and the 3rd is behind the front cover which requires much more labor. Is there no point in replacing just these 2 if the 3rd one could still be bad?
Im about to change mine on 98 explorer sport. Im so scared that the guides are broken but I have no choice but to replace it. Ill do that passenger side one and if that fixes the noise then not going to touch the top one.
One OilPressurized TimingTensioner on Left CamChain, One OilPressurized TimingTensioner on Rght CamChain, One LeafSpring TimingTensioner on Front JackChain, One LeafSpring TimingTensioner on Front BalancerChain if equipped.
Tensioners replacement apparently works with cold startup rattle, but not with a death rattle as u started video with. sorry, but appreciate your video.
-- Do not prime, as the tensioner pushes against the chain guide, and U need to be able to depress the spring in the tensioner a bit when attempting to reinsert. Pre-oiling will make tensioner too stiff and cross-threading may result and lead to oil leaks.
-- If U do not have a" feel" for rethreading in tight spaces, eg: spark plugs, do not attempt. Get someone else who has "the feel."
-- Install dry as Ford recommends and, do a "flood start" procedure: press gas pedal to floor and crank for 4-5 seconds to build oil pressure, then release.
-- high mileage engines with death rattle will need to be removed and all three timing chain cassettes replaced, as well as oil pickup sump cleaned of plastic debris. Big job that requires experience and some special Ford tools.
-- Fellow blew a timing chain, and spent $4000 having engine repaired with new chains, heads, labour, etc, or take chances on used engine...?
I did my dad's a year ago. Dumbest part ever. They were so tight compressing it in by hand to get it started that it crossthreaded immediately. The thread wanted to engage right at that little oil hole and just destroyed the aluminum even starting it by hand. The engineer that came up with this should get the darwin award. Lets put a hardened spring tension bolt in a tight space directly into aluminum. Had to get a new head.
After hearing “like a peasant” and the fart sound, you tapped into my childhood of working on the old MGB with my dad when I was young. L&S “Don’t poop yourself like me” love it! Show me any cologne motor work you venture into!
Great video. Thanks! Really useful to see how the tensioners work and where they are located. My Landrover Discovery 3 has the same engine. Unfortunately I found that removing inner inner wheel arch mud guard on the Discovery does not give adequate access to the right hand side tensioner. You can see it, but the Discovery has two heat shields which prevent you getting a hand in there. The heat shields look like they were installed before the engine, so would be nigh on impossible to remove.
PS/EDIT: I found that you can change the right hand side tensioner from above - it's actually quite easy. It's located a couple of inches behind the rear spark plug. After reading comments on here and seeing how stif the tensioner becomes when primed I decided to install it un-primed straight out of the packet (I used a Landrover branded part). When I started the engine there was a very brief clatter from the timing chain - like less than a second - before it came good, so it obviously primes very quickly. I'm deligthed to say that my timing chain rattle is cured!
IM IN THE PROCESS OF DIAGNOSSING ISSUE WITH MY 4.0 4X4.
SOME OF THE CHAIN & CASSETTE REPLACEMENT KITS,SHOW THESE TENSIONERS AS PART OF THE KIT(WHEN CHANGED THESE TENSIONERS MUST HAVE O RING CHANGED TOO.)
THIS VIDEO COULD BE CONFUSING, LEADING PEOPLE TO THINK THIS IS A FIX.I NOT SURE IT REALLY IS. IM THINKING ITS A SMALL PART OF A MUCH,MUCH MORE INVOLVED FIX.
WHY ARE WE YELLING? ;)
Also have discovery 3. The balance shaft tensioner failed on mine. Managed to replace the front chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners with engine in. The rear chain will be a different story when it goes.
Good vid man, I'm about to do this job on my 05 explorer and this helped a lot
Mines got a noise upon start up but then quickly goes away after oil has bin pumped up there. . in fact it only ever does it when it's cold so I'm thinking I should do this job now before she gets worse
Sorry about the luck man but a great video
Yes do it now!!! It ain’t hard, glad you liked the video
Did you change it, and did it become better during startup? Mine -99 rattles the first second after start, then it goes more silent. Wonder if this solve the problem, have been changing without positive result the last Explorer before this one.
That's what mine does on the passenger side one at the back of the engine, only at first start up, does fine the rest of the day when I start it, how much are y'all having to pay for those thing's in y'alls area?
@@turdpike I have another question, I have a good one that's for the front left side of the engine, the threads and the piston look just like the one for the right side rear of the engine, only difference I can see is, that long thing, would it be ok to use the one from the front? I inherited a few parts from my neaghbor
Same here with my 01 ranger
Did the front tensioner have a washer with it? The one I bought came with one and when I installed it it still rattles I think the washer may be spacing the tensioner from the chain.
Thank you very much for the information, it has been very useful to me. Blessings.
Im getting ready to do mine. From what i read, if u hear the noise, its already too late. Gotta do em before they go bad.
My experience was it was rattling on start up when my daughter bought the car. My advise to her was lets change the tensioners (180k) on the motor its a preventive maintenance thing. Well...... what started as a quiet motor quickly turned in the sound this video is making... and i have no problems installing the tensioners....
I did this with cloyes replacements maybe two years ago and didn’t prime them. In the meantime I got some Ford replacements for cheap online from a dealership. For shits n giggles I tried priming them tonight because I was thinking of replacing the cloyes parts with the Ford ones sometime soon. I got stingy on oil and the left hand tensioner was being difficult and didn’t prime and I made a big mess so I just threw some shrink wrap over everything and guess I’ll waste more oil later.. at least the guides looked good when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and I’ve yet to see bits when I drop the pan. Always something going on with this damn truck,138k mi so far but I’m confident it’ll reach 200k. Would I buy another third gen? Probably, for extra parts, and a reman motor lol
Was it necessary to put the #1 piston at top dead center? Thanks.
2010 Ranger used 1 1/16 wrench on top and same socket on the bottom. Didn't take anything apart just unscrewed the top one and screwed the new one in. Took the wheel off left the rubber on. Easy peezy, 20 minutes.
For priming, I just disconnected the coil and cranked the starter until the oil pressure came up. Did not pre-prime the tensioners at all. Takes about 15 seconds or so.
The problem with pre-priming is that they tend to stiffen-up and become problematic when trying to thread them back in. This leads to drastically increased risk of cross-threading those fine-pitch threads, between hardened steel and an aluminum head. No-brainer who wins that.
2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up…
I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok.
Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time.
One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle.
Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
La bomba de aceite lleva un check que no ayuda a mantener las líneas con aceite, si esa parte ya está dejando escapar la presión de la líneas y las vacía es muy probable que ya esté dañando. También hay una falla dónde el perno o algo así empuja la toma de aceite (pick up tube) entonces ya no hace la función de recolectar el aceite.
Thank you! Just did this on 06 Mountaineer. Mine were in the same exact condition. Seems to have improved the noise
Hey at 4:01 did the original tensioners have washers/gaskets on them when you removed them? I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets...So 1.) did the original tensioners you removed have washers on them and 2.) If not then do you have to/can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks
I would ask the Ford dealer do not use any washer that fits. I would double check at Ford dealership parts first.
you dont have to prime it and the tq spec is 32.
I think it’s safe to say that it’s your lifters making that sound. If it was your timing chain tensioner the sound wouldn’t go away after the engine warms
Bit late here, but the SOHC 4L doesn’t have hydraulic lifters, and the sound goes away because it’s the spring in the tensioner that’s weak - when it’s hydraulically pressured it works as normal (or close to it)
@@dangilbert2579I’m having this same issues on my explorer same thing but I haven’t change absolutely anything and now I want to start with this same thing on the video !! My question is if this doesn’t resolve the issue like him what’s next ..? What’s next to be fixed .? Do you know
@Ricktwk1212 if its too late, the guides might have snapped or the chain might have stretched - next step would be replacing either one or both of those things
I found the easy way to prime these is to immerse in oil over the tiny hole on the side and push it down and hold it until you see air bubbles when you see air bubbles release it and push and hold, repeat until its primed. Takes about 3 minutes
So, exactly what I did
@@turdpike IMO you over primed them and not necessary ! So keep a little back of you may strip threads if you have it to Much Primed ! Thx GOOD VID !
I’m not even sure if priming is necessary. At least not completely. As you screw it in it pushes it in and the oil comes out anyway.
I primed mine anyway. I submerged it in oil vertically and pushed it with a socket and extension. A cut plastic bottle would work.
too late for you but here ya go / from ford new the original left ( passenger side ) tensioner only has
about a quarter of an inch of wiggle room ( travel )to the new cassette
cartridge??? / I would suggest replacing the driver side tensioner with a
new OEM from ford and then use the old one from the driver side to
install on the passenger side as it has .200 more throw. and yes it does
make a difference.
Can we use the front one for the rear? There must be a reason for Ford to make them different. Any thoughts?
about to try this on my 06 as well. my noise is nowhere near as bad as this one. I just barely started noticing a slight tick at start up till its warm, then only a slight tick under heavy load at 3000 rpm.
Im thinking the tensioners are done, but not badly enough to have had more damage done yet. hopefully, anyway lol. 291,000 kms on mine and they're original tensioners so.
Ya man fire some new ones in! I bet that’s what you’ve got going on
Excellent vid I replaced without priming same noise bought a new set and primed see what I get.
What did you get
Someone on the Tube put a small amount of grease on the contact surface of the plunger before installing. Can't remember where I saw it.
Mine is backwards. I have a brand new remanufactured engine. ZERO rattle at startup, but when warm at idle i have (sounds like mables in a can of oil rattling), like a quiet diesel. With any throttle response, it goes away. Weird.
I'm thinking that priming the tensioners just makes them hard to install...
If you put them in dry, and turn the engine over for 5 secs with the accelerator pedal down, that should do the priming, yes?
btw, what brand where the replacement tensioners?
It wasn’t bad to install them with them being primed, just that one RH bank like I said felt a bit weird at first. Its true the oil pump should and will prime them eventually, but for what it’s worth I’d recommend priming them as who knows what could happen in those first few seconds that they are as dry as a fart. Maybe nothing, maybe skip time though as they aren’t tight enough. It’s just an insurance thing really in my head, won’t hurt anything if you do prime them but has the potential to hurt something if you don’t
I think these were cheap Cloyes tensioners from Rock Auto.
@@turdpike
Thanks for that.
Maybe I'll split the difference and prime them lightly...
@@turdpike humm, what would you think about priming them some, then unplug the coil pack and turn the engine a few good time's? Think that may work?
@@turdpike I think he means turning the motor over with the starter only (better done by taking out the fuel pump relay) that way you can install easier but idk
I'd rather do it by hand I guess
I had a failed oil filter that drained down after replacing timing chains, air was introduced in my 4.0 ranger causing the front tensioner to resist being pumped up, first attempt was done as in this video and while slightly improved required revisit. Try 2 was done by taking a 6inch pc of 1-1/2 pvc with encap as vessel to hold oil, dropped tensioner in plunger upward, used 3/4 pc with encap to depress plunger, tons of air came out, was over 5 minutes of cycling up n down until the tensioner became hard and no longer would depress.much less mess and added confidence air was removed.
That noise wouldn't be caused by the hydraulic tensioners. The entire nylon traction side of the cassette is gone, you've probably seen by now but if not you will once the engine comes out.
I sold it instead because I figured that’d be the case lol. Truck wasn’t worth it. Rusted out unit
@@turdpike mind over matter. good call.
It's pathetic they use plastic/nylon guides inside this engine.... Pathetic of Ford... They designed it to break. High temp in an Engine... Never use plastic inside an engine...
@@unicomp5705 You got that right!.
Prime by pulling the fuel pump fuse 23 and turn key over for a minute. Then put fuse back and start normally.
Would replacing these tensioners prevent the dreaded "death rattle" from developing?
Los tensores que instalo fueron los originales? Y si es así donde los consiguió gcs, buen video
Good video i did both was driving checked for leaks found none then following morning i can smell oil yup leaking i believe its coming from upper one bottom is dry gotta start by mabey tighten the upper one hope it works
Ya you never want crank them down, you mess up the threads you got a big issue can cause a very bad leak torque spec is 35 ft
Do those things lose their prime overnight when they go bad? Reason I ask is because I get the rattle at first start up, but it doesn't do it the rest of the day, only when I first start it in the morning
I believe so yes- if you have the rattle now it may be worth putting new ones in before it gets any worse
@@turdpike thanks, it worries me every morning, probably best to replace both, since the one has started right?
Thanks for sharing Your technique
Did the noise start gradually or one day it just started?
very good jab
Man. I was so excited as I have this exact issue. I drove about a mile after the noise started. Did you ever get it resolved?
Yup. I sold the truck 😂. No word of a lie- as this was happening I was closing a deal on an F150 anyway
@@turdpike I appreciate the reply. My Ranger is ridiculously nice and I’m thinking I may stick a new engine in it anyway.
I know this is an old video but if anybody could respond would be much appreciated. Did you have to put it on top dead center before removing the tensioners? Thank you for
I don't know if you have any suggestion. But i replaced this piece (lower side tensioner) and after a few times driving it released the oil out of the spring and it left the thread on the outside of the engine. so there was oil on the ground and then when i started the truck it sounded like i had just replace an unprimed tensioner..
I fucking hate the rattling sound i just want drive the car into a wall instead of listen to that lol
I’m not sure what you mean by it left the thread on the outside of the engine? Like it leaked from the threads?
@@turdpike yeah it’s leaking oil. I went back took it out primed it and tried to wrench it in tighter this time and it’s leaking again..
I wish they had a rubber seal. This sucks.
@@babyfactory587 maybe a bead of thread sealer or gasket maker on the outer portion of the threads? Dirty fix but it should work
Did you ever find out what the noice was
Your timing guides are probably destroyed. So that means have fun removing the engine to replace the all of them. There are two cartridge style, 1 for each head and then one for the lower main chain, then one for the balance shaft if you have one.
What if you didn’t put oil on it?
Wondering why retiming wasn't attempted after establishing that the tensioners went? Not criticizing just wondering if you know something I don't.
Good question! Couple reasons I didn’t, #1 (don’t tell my wife) at the time I was almost looking for an excuse to get rid of the Ranger and upgrade anyway, #2 besides the horrendous noise, it actually still continued to run/start just fine. I figured if in fact it had skipped time, that wouldn’t be the case
I know, second comment, but genuine question. I just did my top tensioner (with a couple tricks I found thanks to watching your repair first) but I am really confused. Was your right temp sensor plugged in or is it just my ST that seems to have no connector for it anywhere?
They were both plugged in if I can recall correctly
I assume your talking about the front one for my answer. I changed the thermostat housing on my 2006, and I noted the tensioner protrusion was never in the way of that install when I decide to remove . I needed to use my "Ford two finger squeeze" to start the threads on my temp sensor nearest the heater tube entry to install it. The front sensor is further away from the tensioner, so I expect it's not a problem. If I do change the tensioner, I can see it's angle in the block may force me to remove the housing to do unscrew it.
@@mikehoffman4131 Ironically I wound up doing the nightmarish timing job and pulling the motor to do so, came to find out I have only one sensor connector, but two sensors. Tested them and both are operational, so I guess my '05 was blessed with a spare from the previous owner(s)
I guess by priming you eliminate the leak that I have for not priming?
Can these make your truck misfire if bad?
I was able to remove the left tensioner with just a wrench. I didn't have to remove anything.
What year make and model did you do it on? Did you use a regular 27mm wrench or did you use a flex head/rotating head wrench?
@@XDLaughPLUR just a regular 27mm wrench. It didn't help with noise. It make it worse because chain guides were broken. My car was a 2003 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 engine.
@@George-fh9zm thanks for the reply. I have a 2001 explorer sport and i believe starting in 2003 or late 2002 they moved a lot of things around in the engine bay even though it was still the sohc v6, based on a few videos i watched. Is this correct?
@@George-fh9zm i may be mistaken but I believe there are 3 tensioners total? 2 of them as shown in these series of videos and the 3rd is behind the front cover which requires much more labor. Is there no point in replacing just these 2 if the 3rd one could still be bad?
Im about to change mine on 98 explorer sport. Im so scared that the guides are broken but I have no choice but to replace it. Ill do that passenger side one and if that fixes the noise then not going to touch the top one.
Good plan! Hopefully that will fix it 🤞🏻
I just pulled the engine and did all new guides today. Not to bad
Do the oil holes have to line up? I would think they do.
No, if I recall the section with the holes is milled down to create a circumferential oil gallery. Just spin it on until it’s tight
@@turdpike thank you for the information.
how many tensioner on this truck?
2
@@turdpike is this the same deal for 2005 Explorer v6 4.0 engine?
@@MA-vm6jl Should be
Theres one in the front behind the timing cover. If you have 4x4 you have 4 chains because of the balance shaft
One OilPressurized TimingTensioner on Left CamChain,
One OilPressurized TimingTensioner on Rght CamChain,
One LeafSpring TimingTensioner on Front JackChain,
One LeafSpring TimingTensioner on Front BalancerChain if equipped.
Grasias amigo
Mines only rattles when it’s warmed up, idling not cold do you think this can solve that problem ?
Possibly yes, worth a shot
@@turdpike ok I’ll give it a shot, but quick question did you have to time the engine when doing this or just unbolt and bolt the new ones on ?
@@tonyborja7883 it shouldn’t skip time, I just threw mine in
@@turdpike ok thanks for the info 👍
I hope this worked for you - I use only ford parts
Put new guide’s in and she will be good as new
35 ftlbs torque
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
peasant has luck of peasant
The way she goes!!!
any shmoo ! 🤣
Don't buy a Ford ....good advice (Sport Trac owner🤧).
Don't buy a 4.0 ford
Your engine rattle to? Lmao
@@imove_crosmapz6747 rear timing chain.....plastic runner....
Why I love mine 250,000 miles on it no problem. My 91 Toyota didn’t get that far.
Speak up
Ya sure I’ll re shoot the whole entire video 👍
Watch your profanity, i was watching this with the kids around
Uhhhhh make me big boiii
I agree, love the channel but can’t be listening to this cursing
@@paigetimmins973 life is rough sensitive a$$ clown weak a$$ people
😃 That is humorous and funny 😃
Get over it kids shouldn't be watching