On an '05 just pull the clip for the temp sensor, pop it out and use a rag to plug the hole. Then you can get right at the tensioner without removing anything else.
Awesome!!! I have a 1997 Explorer and I have this cold start rattle. I will be doing these tensioners soon!!! Thanks for a very informative part 1/2 video set!!
I tackled the rear tensioner, no problem, on my 1999 XLT, using the first video as a guide. This one is obviously a little trickier. In addition, Ford changed the layout slightly in the 2001 sport in this video, so it didn't translate 100%, but I did use this as a guide. Unfortunately, I got to disconnecting the thermostat wire connectors and saw that the gray connector just barely blocks access to the tensioner bolt. I'd already dropped a little coolant removing the hose to the thermostat, but wasn't entirely sure about dropping any more by removing the housing. He does say to remove the thermostat housing, but not having a large drip pan to catch the coolant in addition to not having a garage to work in, I stopped there and put everything back together without changing the tensioner. I will say I take for granted the engineering that goes into an engine, but now I know I might not get to change the front tensioner out myself. It is deceiving because you can clearly see the front tensioner, but getting to it is as annoying as demonstrated on the video.
don't know where you learn how to do this or how you discovered your issue what the startup Rattle and the cause of your cassettes breaking down the road but you are an amazing man continue your success oil changes are keep factors in that but the fact that you figure that out top notch
I've never had very good luck removing anything tight with Vice Grips, it always ate up the edges of the bolt I was trying to loosen, I used a socket I think, I do not recall removing the thermostat housing at all, but its been a while, the front one was fine on mine, I then went to the rear one (or side one really) and removed that one, both were still in good condition, but when I ran the tensioner back in I ran it all the way back in with my fingers, that told me that the cassette was broke. Later on when my dad was driving it, it broke down and would not hit after that, been sitting ever since, I plan to fix it later on maybe, I took the valve cover off on the left side and sure enough, plastic pieces up on top of the head.. This is such a common occurrence, Ford really needs to recall all the Explorers and other vehicles this has happened to, shitty quality cassettes.
The Front one only has the thermostat housing around it not to much of a problem getting it past it without removing the housing. The Rear one (toward the passenger side fender) is easier to get to, if your referring to the oil filter, it shouldn't be an issue, its far enough away from the tensioner, if you want follow me on twitter @mattcasdorph and I'll take video or a photo of how it looks on mine and show you. If you don't have a twitter account, let me know, I'll figure something out.
I added a video to my channel rather than posting it on my twitter, so just click my profile and view my channel, its the only Ford Explorer video I have I believe, I just realized what you meant about filter, apparently the different years and some of the same year does have the air filter in the way, mine didn't but other photos of 4.0's for the Rangers and some Explorers do have it in the way, if it is, I'd imagine you would have to remove it but it shouldn't be hard at all.
Was able to do this by unhooking the wires and unscrewing the two temperature sensors and taking them out without loosening the bottom thermostat housing. Top housing does come off to get to sensors of course.
@@darrinsiberia It is possible but it's only a matter of time before they completely fail. Ironically enough since my comment on this video I had to replace my 03's motor from this exact problem lol...
@combs3030 Yes. However, if your engine doesn't run and has been rattling before, it wouldn't even be worth replacing the tensioners. The engine probably jumped time and bent the valves.
DanielJaegerFilms This will work for a 2005 explorer? Thanks sir very helpfull i have the same issue with 2005 ford xlt i think both chains tensioners are bad mechanic told me that he have to remove the motor in order to fix it and second option was to pour 100% synthetic oil i did the second one and the noise is worst .going to try your approach then Greetings from la isla del encanto!
Took a peak found the passenger side tensioner as shown in part one BUT the top tensioner is insanely easy to get to on our 03 explorer xlt (non sport trac like shown here) Its smack dab on the top of the engine you dont have to remove anything! So this video here only applies to the sport trac which is harder to do this on in my opinion, still havent changed it on our yet however.
Great video... Going to tackle this job next week and take care of both. Truck has been rattling since I bought it and am a little afraid of causing more damage and having the motor stop completely. Anyone do this and have more issues? Does the chain need to be retimed. And how do I prefill with oil?... Just soak for a few hours before?... Any suggestions would be great.
Did my 02 with a 1 1/16" wrench didn't remove anything. Took about a minute, easier than changing a spark plug. You only have to remove the thermostat housing to use a deep well socket.
+Arthur Bilton Ya i did the same thing, only problem was the sensor wouldnt thread back into the housing and now shes buggered. $75 later and the new sensor wont thread in the new housing........
Any ideas for a 2003 Ford Explorer? Ive heard ford updated the tensioners on 03 explorers to not have this issue but im not sure as im deffinately hearing something. (Feel free to stop here, the rest is just me writing a book XD) My parents just bought one in pretty nice shape for the mileage (it hit 260,000 while they test drove it). They never notice the "small things" Found a number of things wrong just body wise they didnt even notice (its been in a couple wrecks from the looks of it appears a college student drove it and had a tendency of hitting various things lol parking poles included) It runs great, or well idles great (as I havent drove it) They still havent noticed but my ear did when they started it up while the engine was cold. There is a horrible rattle for all of 1-2 seconds basically until oil pressure regularized . I have not heard the engine at higher rpms. After that idle is very smooth no odd noises at the slightest. Now the price my parents got it for ($1,000) and considering the mileage they still expect it to be perfect. (The saying of buying used means buying another persons problems didnt really directly apply here, vehicle was a repo by one of those quick auto loan places so the previous owners werent really trying to get rid of it it seems) Now my father is a GM fanatic. And the fact there might be something wrong with the switch in the door that detects if the driver door is open was enough to piss him off beyond belief... (even though its an easy fix) The whole reason why they purchased it was because the 4.3L in their 96 S10 appears to have a cracked head (every GM product in our yard is broken down {2 S10s one 96 and the other is the previous gen but not sure of year, 94 GMC3500 and a 97 camaro} sorry chevy guys but its true every Ford in our yard {97 ranger 2.3L, 2000 e250 6.8L v10, 04 f150 5.4L, and now the 03 Explorer 4.0} is running strong but not without small issues here and there such as this) If it eventually causes more problems I'd like to hurry up and fix it so they dont have a calf about ford products... The transmission was rebuilt (has to have been with this many miles and the famous tranny problems of this transmission due to cheap servos and bands) But it seems like a quality rebuild which is unheard of in these parts of VA where tranny rebuilders are ready to rip you a new one.. I havent checked it at speed but just driving it at about 15-20mph in the yard moving it around and feeling the shifts and the shift points at low throttle it seems almost like new! Smooth soft but yet firm and crisp, pretty much perfect! If they hadnt have bought it I would have!
Daniel, Great video! We have a '99 explorer with the same 4.0 SOHC engine. We have rattle at both cold start and at warm idle. Seems almost louder at warm idle. 168k on the engine and I don't think the tensioners have ever been touched. Question is will new tensioners actually cause further damage? Do the tensioners press the old worn guides against the old chains? With the rattle noise noticeable at warm idle is it worthwhile to install new tensioners? Wife has had this rattle noise for a long time!
Sir I know it's been a long time since this video came out but I am doing this timing chain job myself and I'm surprised that I actually did it myself by watching your videos. Thank you for the very helpful stuff. Saved me about 1500. I have one question. What is the proper way to install new tensioners? They are the ones that goes right next to the thermostat housing and one goes on the bottom of the block behind the passenger wheel. Somebody said I have to prime them before install.
Yeah it must have been the original tensioner I have only 115k on a '98. I have decided just to run it into the ground and hope it lasts a while. I wonder if different oil would calm the rattle...
Yes thank you very much for posting this video it was very helpful. (97 ford explorer) Question? I changed the bottom one and the noise became less louder. I change the top one and as I turned it on it did go away for a couple of seconds and then the noise came back does it when idling and while driving drives better through. Have any tips
I just installed a reman. engine 4.0L v6sohc 2001 2wd in my 2001 sport trac. Fired it up well,but when at normal running temp. it started to make a similar noise to your issue. The new motor came with new parts. I cant tell without pulling tensioner if it is new or not. Do you know if the valves can be adjusted on this motor? Thanks for posting this video.
how do you know that the plastic guides are not already broken in the engine?????? Mine is the opposite it doesn't start tapping until the engine gets warm. It only taps at idle.. Any info would be appreciated
I am about to do this very same job tomorrow on my 98 explorer 4.0 SOHC, and I noticed you said you have to remove the thermostat housing, but after you discovered removing all the inlet hoses and sensor plugs, that your 27 mm deep socket fit without removing the thermostat housing and it appears you didn't remove it??? Did you just loosen the housing to get the socket in place without removing the thermostat housing? If so, that will save a lot of time. Please let me know ASAP. thnx...
I sort of have the opposite problem with my 05 Sport Trac(181,000 miles). It sounds fine after a cold start but after maybe a mile it rattles when it sits idling and going from a stop. Best way to describe it; it sounds like a baseball card hitting bike spokes. Id love to believe its something small like this or my timing chain is going to break.
+igostupidfast3 don't try to start it without a tensioner..lol, I'm guessing it could/would jump teeth without tension on the guide. Otherwise I wouldn't think it would just changing the tensioners
I am having problems wiht mine. I have the driver side tensioner off and the passenger side i cant get the driver side back on. Every time i thread it in it will go straight and then cross thread. can u help me by explaining how it is suppose to go in. thank you
I had that done today with new tensioner on the left driver side. My exploder is rattling worse than ever. I noticed that the old one was shorter than the new one. Should I put the old one back in or is it too late .
from ford new the original left ( passenger side ) tensioner only has about a quarter of an inch of wiggle room ( travel )to the new cassette cartridge??? / I would suggest replacing the driver side tensioner with a new OEM from ford and then use the old one from the driver side to install on the passenger side as it has .200 more throw. and yes it does make a difference.
my explorar 2002 .. plastic timing chain guides broke is it important to replace ?? am running with this for 9 months, if i just wait until the engine warms up to idle temperature.. no problem occurs... as i travel 1000 mile with ac cool to the max in the desert!
Jose Quinteros you don’t need to prime them. Once you start truck, oil pressure will fill them. You are asking for issues putting in a primed tensioner. Also.... someone mentioned 60 lbs of torque... crazy. It more like 30-35. You will smash the aluminum washer and then tear up the surface which will lead to a mess of oil shooting out... tighten it to 30 then reinspect it and tight little by little till no leak. Don’t listen and screw it up you will then be looking for new head... I have seen enough of these... got lucky and helped fix someone who did this with a thicker copper washer and sealed... but trust me, these clowns who say to prime are idiots... not needed plus you risk jumping teeth...harder to press in primed and get threaded in straight too
@@doughaller2065 exactly right . The is even a video on TH-cam were the guy claims priming is important and to tighten to 60 ft. lbs. If the rear tensioner is primed you can't even seat it fully with out excessive force . 37 ft. lbs. is the specified torque .
Question does this video apply to 1st gen sohc 4.0 like a 97 explorer sport 4.0 sohc does not even rattle at cold starts and has 169,000 miles but want to do it for just peace of mind
mate i'm in Australia and have a 1999 mld ford explorer and is it ok to put in 2004 chain tensioner in mine? and if it makes the same noise when warm is that bad it's got good oil pressure
I have a 1999 and I was told that I had to replace the timing chain on the drivers' side. I get a rattle when the engine is hot. At start up no noise. What would you recommend?
so i took my explorer in today to see what the rattling was and they said they need to pull the whole engine out to fix the timing chain. $2k just in labor for removing the engine. what are the chances its just the tensioners?
Timing chain replacement requires removing the engine. There's something on the back of the engine needing to be involved. The chain rubs against cassettes which are plastic. There are special Ford tools needed which are expensive. Try this method first.
I'd suggest getting these direct from a Ford dealer. There's a lot of counterfeit parts out there. And from what I've seen, only the Motorcraft tensioners actually work! I ordered some Cloyes tensioners, and sent them back when I found they had the same or slightly less spring tension than the original ones (100,000 miles +).
i have a 98 Ford explorer and my problem started when the spring inside where the pully or surpentine belt popped off while on freeway. ever since then i have no power and my car sounds like it has a exaughst leak. ^/7 mechanics later I'm still without my car. Help..WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN DAMAGED TO WHERE THERE IS NO POWER! AND LOUD??
What he forgot to tell u unless u get lucky number 1 plus 5 cylinder should be top dead center before u loosen that front or rear tension because it may Crack your cylinder head or camshafts due to the release of torque against the cam and tension against cylinder head
No. The rear is pretty much the same, but the front is quite different. Though in the same place, you need to pull the intake manifold to get to it. Try visiting explorer forum .com they have a whole lot of info there on the 97 SOHC.
Yvet Carabajal did you ever find out what it was? Did you have a combination of the ticking noise and loss of power simultaneously? Please get back to me. I’m having the same problems.
Part 1 and 2 super helpfull im glad you did this repair in detail you saved me 600$ in labour for that i thank you sir!
600 in labor? man this one mechanic said it’ll cost me 3000 in labor💀💀
On an '05 just pull the clip for the temp sensor, pop it out and use a rag to plug the hole. Then you can get right at the tensioner without removing anything else.
I wish I had seen this before I damaged my engine, now I will change these tensioners every 70k miles for sure, thanks a lot man great video!
Awesome!!! I have a 1997 Explorer and I have this cold start rattle. I will be doing these tensioners soon!!! Thanks for a very informative part 1/2 video set!!
I tackled the rear tensioner, no problem, on my 1999 XLT, using the first video as a guide. This one is obviously a little trickier. In addition, Ford changed the layout slightly in the 2001 sport in this video, so it didn't translate 100%, but I did use this as a guide. Unfortunately, I got to disconnecting the thermostat wire connectors and saw that the gray connector just barely blocks access to the tensioner bolt. I'd already dropped a little coolant removing the hose to the thermostat, but wasn't entirely sure about dropping any more by removing the housing. He does say to remove the thermostat housing, but not having a large drip pan to catch the coolant in addition to not having a garage to work in, I stopped there and put everything back together without changing the tensioner.
I will say I take for granted the engineering that goes into an engine, but now I know I might not get to change the front tensioner out myself. It is deceiving because you can clearly see the front tensioner, but getting to it is as annoying as demonstrated on the video.
I did the same method as you did, what an evil design!!! Great Video.
don't know where you learn how to do this or how you discovered your issue what the startup Rattle and the cause of your cassettes breaking down the road but you are an amazing man continue your success oil changes are keep factors in that but the fact that you figure that out top notch
FYI for people with a 2003 4.0, I can confirm you do not have to remove anything to get to the front tensioner, its easy to get to.
I've never had very good luck removing anything tight with Vice Grips, it always ate up the edges of the bolt I was trying to loosen, I used a socket I think, I do not recall removing the thermostat housing at all, but its been a while, the front one was fine on mine, I then went to the rear one (or side one really) and removed that one, both were still in good condition, but when I ran the tensioner back in I ran it all the way back in with my fingers, that told me that the cassette was broke. Later on when my dad was driving it, it broke down and would not hit after that, been sitting ever since, I plan to fix it later on maybe, I took the valve cover off on the left side and sure enough, plastic pieces up on top of the head.. This is such a common occurrence, Ford really needs to recall all the Explorers and other vehicles this has happened to, shitty quality cassettes.
No Problem
Do you remember how you got to it without removing the filter and stuff?
The Front one only has the thermostat housing around it not to much of a problem getting it past it without removing the housing. The Rear one (toward the passenger side fender) is easier to get to, if your referring to the oil filter, it shouldn't be an issue, its far enough away from the tensioner, if you want follow me on twitter @mattcasdorph and I'll take video or a photo of how it looks on mine and show you. If you don't have a twitter account, let me know, I'll figure something out.
I added a video to my channel rather than posting it on my twitter, so just click my profile and view my channel, its the only Ford Explorer video I have I believe, I just realized what you meant about filter, apparently the different years and some of the same year does have the air filter in the way, mine didn't but other photos of 4.0's for the Rangers and some Explorers do have it in the way, if it is, I'd imagine you would have to remove it but it shouldn't be hard at all.
Was able to do this by unhooking the wires and unscrewing the two temperature sensors and taking them out without loosening the bottom thermostat housing. Top housing does come off to get to sensors of course.
Damn it man, great video. Everything pretty much fell in place like it did for you on those tensioners. Thanks bro and fuck the haters
So simple and effective, as an owner thinking major money was going into the engine.
Awesome video really appreciated for all you precious time
I was going to pull the engine to change the timing kit ,,thanks a lot !!
My rattle is bad continues even when warm how do I know if the guide is bad before changing the tensioners? Thanks for the video
Also need to know this
Pull the oil pan, the pieces will be found there if they are broke.
@@darrinsiberia It is possible but it's only a matter of time before they completely fail. Ironically enough since my comment on this video I had to replace my 03's motor from this exact problem lol...
@combs3030 Yes. However, if your engine doesn't run and has been rattling before, it wouldn't even be worth replacing the tensioners. The engine probably jumped time and bent the valves.
DanielJaegerFilms
This will work for a 2005 explorer?
Thanks sir very helpfull i have the same issue with 2005 ford xlt i think both chains tensioners are bad mechanic told me that he have to remove the motor in order to fix it and second option was to pour 100% synthetic oil i did the second one and the noise is worst .going to try your approach then
Greetings from la isla del encanto!
Took a peak found the passenger side tensioner as shown in part one BUT the top tensioner is insanely easy to get to on our 03 explorer xlt (non sport trac like shown here) Its smack dab on the top of the engine you dont have to remove anything! So this video here only applies to the sport trac which is harder to do this on in my opinion, still havent changed it on our yet however.
Great video... Going to tackle this job next week and take care of both. Truck has been rattling since I bought it and am a little afraid of causing more damage and having the motor stop completely. Anyone do this and have more issues? Does the chain need to be retimed. And how do I prefill with oil?... Just soak for a few hours before?... Any suggestions would be great.
I cannot for the life of me I'm plug those red and grey connectors. I can't fit my hands and grab them. How did you do it?
Did my 02 with a 1 1/16" wrench didn't remove anything. Took about a minute, easier than changing a spark plug. You only have to remove the thermostat housing to use a deep well socket.
+Arthur Bilton Ya i did the same thing, only problem was the sensor wouldnt thread back into the housing and now shes buggered. $75 later and the new sensor wont thread in the new housing........
When you did this job did you have to set the timing on the engine before hand or did you just unbolt and bolt the new one in ?
@@tonyborja7883i was wondering this too..ever find an answer?
Any ideas for a 2003 Ford Explorer? Ive heard ford updated the tensioners on 03 explorers to not have this issue but im not sure as im deffinately hearing something. (Feel free to stop here, the rest is just me writing a book XD) My parents just bought one in pretty nice shape for the mileage (it hit 260,000 while they test drove it). They never notice the "small things" Found a number of things wrong just body wise they didnt even notice (its been in a couple wrecks from the looks of it appears a college student drove it and had a tendency of hitting various things lol parking poles included) It runs great, or well idles great (as I havent drove it) They still havent noticed but my ear did when they started it up while the engine was cold. There is a horrible rattle for all of 1-2 seconds basically until oil pressure regularized . I have not heard the engine at higher rpms. After that idle is very smooth no odd noises at the slightest. Now the price my parents got it for ($1,000) and considering the mileage they still expect it to be perfect. (The saying of buying used means buying another persons problems didnt really directly apply here, vehicle was a repo by one of those quick auto loan places so the previous owners werent really trying to get rid of it it seems) Now my father is a GM fanatic. And the fact there might be something wrong with the switch in the door that detects if the driver door is open was enough to piss him off beyond belief... (even though its an easy fix) The whole reason why they purchased it was because the 4.3L in their 96 S10 appears to have a cracked head (every GM product in our yard is broken down {2 S10s one 96 and the other is the previous gen but not sure of year, 94 GMC3500 and a 97 camaro} sorry chevy guys but its true every Ford in our yard {97 ranger 2.3L, 2000 e250 6.8L v10, 04 f150 5.4L, and now the 03 Explorer 4.0} is running strong but not without small issues here and there such as this) If it eventually causes more problems I'd like to hurry up and fix it so they dont have a calf about ford products... The transmission was rebuilt (has to have been with this many miles and the famous tranny problems of this transmission due to cheap servos and bands) But it seems like a quality rebuild which is unheard of in these parts of VA where tranny rebuilders are ready to rip you a new one.. I havent checked it at speed but just driving it at about 15-20mph in the yard moving it around and feeling the shifts and the shift points at low throttle it seems almost like new! Smooth soft but yet firm and crisp, pretty much perfect! If they hadnt have bought it I would have!
Daniel, Great video! We have a '99 explorer with the same 4.0 SOHC engine. We have rattle at both cold start and at warm idle. Seems almost louder at warm idle. 168k on the engine and I don't think the tensioners have ever been touched. Question is will new tensioners actually cause further damage? Do the tensioners press the old worn guides against the old chains? With the rattle noise noticeable at warm idle is it worthwhile to install new tensioners? Wife has had this rattle noise for a long time!
why is it that nobody mentioned that this front one is a nightmare to do, it did fix it though, good video
Daniel will the tensioners be in same place on a 98, 4.0 sohc if not would apperiate any info my book does not even show them
didnt see any priming if tensioner
Sir I know it's been a long time since this video came out but I am doing this timing chain job myself and I'm surprised that I actually did it myself by watching your videos. Thank you for the very helpful stuff. Saved me about 1500. I have one question. What is the proper way to install new tensioners? They are the ones that goes right next to the thermostat housing and one goes on the bottom of the block behind the passenger wheel. Somebody said I have to prime them before install.
@Jules D
Thank you so much.
i have that noise even when engine is warm think I might replace both
Did that fix the rattle?
Yeah it must have been the original tensioner I have only 115k on a '98. I have decided just to run it into the ground and hope it lasts a while. I wonder if different oil would calm the rattle...
So even though this is easy as fuck you just gonna ignore it?......buy a bike
Yes thank you very much for posting this video it was very helpful. (97 ford explorer) Question? I changed the bottom one and the noise became less louder. I change the top one and as I turned it on it did go away for a couple of seconds and then the noise came back does it when idling and while driving drives better through. Have any tips
I just installed a reman. engine 4.0L v6sohc 2001 2wd in my 2001 sport trac. Fired it up well,but when at normal running temp. it started to make a similar noise to your issue. The new motor came with new parts. I cant tell without pulling tensioner if it is new or not. Do you know if the valves can be adjusted on this motor? Thanks for posting this video.
Man I fixed so many things doing no vids, I'm waiting to get some sort of hat/head camera w/light so I can work and show what I'm doing the best
Just replaced the front tensioner to stop rattle on cold start, it now rattles continuously. Anyone had this happen?
Mine did this too. I ended up taking the new one out and putting the old one back in and i runs fine.
motoforlyfe Did you use an aftermarket tensioner, which wasn't Ford brand parts?
The video is really helpful. Thanks a lot.
how do you know that the plastic guides are not already broken in the engine?????? Mine is the opposite it doesn't start tapping until the engine gets warm. It only taps at idle.. Any info would be appreciated
I can only find just the complete set for timing chain replacement. How much should I pay?
I am about to do this very same job tomorrow on my 98 explorer 4.0 SOHC, and I noticed you said you have to remove the thermostat housing, but after you discovered removing all the inlet hoses and sensor plugs, that your 27 mm deep socket fit without removing the thermostat housing and it appears you didn't remove it??? Did you just loosen the housing to get the socket in place without removing the thermostat housing? If so, that will save a lot of time. Please let me know ASAP. thnx...
I sort of have the opposite problem with my 05 Sport Trac(181,000 miles). It sounds fine after a cold start but after maybe a mile it rattles when it sits idling and going from a stop. Best way to describe it; it sounds like a baseball card hitting bike spokes.
Id love to believe its something small like this or my timing chain is going to break.
Do you have to worry about the chain jumping teeth
+igostupidfast3 don't try to start it without a tensioner..lol, I'm guessing it could/would jump teeth without tension on the guide. Otherwise I wouldn't think it would just changing the tensioners
I am having problems wiht mine. I have the driver side tensioner off and the passenger side i cant get the driver side back on. Every time i thread it in it will go straight and then cross thread. can u help me by explaining how it is suppose to go in. thank you
Is this the same procedure for a 2002 ford explorer sport?
Where can I go and buy these tensioner for my 2003 ford explorer V6
I had that done today with new tensioner on the left driver side. My exploder is rattling worse than ever. I noticed that the old one was shorter than the new one. Should I put the old one back in or is it too late
.
How many hours did it take to replace?
Can I get a part number on these tensioners plz?
from ford new the original left ( passenger side ) tensioner only has
about a quarter of an inch of wiggle room ( travel )to the new cassette
cartridge??? / I would suggest replacing the driver side tensioner with a
new OEM from ford and then use the old one from the driver side to
install on the passenger side as it has .200 more throw. and yes it does
make a difference.
Where you bought the parts?
When replacing tensioners does timing have to be set to TDC?
No
Whered you get the parts for 65 bucks?
my explorar 2002 .. plastic timing chain guides broke
is it important to replace ??
am running with this for 9 months, if i just wait until the engine warms up to idle temperature.. no problem occurs... as i travel 1000 mile with ac cool to the max in the desert!
I cant get my new tensioner prime. Please help
Jose Quinteros you don’t need to prime them. Once you start truck, oil pressure will fill them. You are asking for issues putting in a primed tensioner. Also.... someone mentioned 60 lbs of torque... crazy. It more like 30-35. You will smash the aluminum washer and then tear up the surface which will lead to a mess of oil shooting out... tighten it to 30 then reinspect it and tight little by little till no leak. Don’t listen and screw it up you will then be looking for new head... I have seen enough of these... got lucky and helped fix someone who did this with a thicker copper washer and sealed... but trust me, these clowns who say to prime are idiots... not needed plus you risk jumping teeth...harder to press in primed and get threaded in straight too
@@doughaller2065 exactly right . The is even a video on TH-cam were the guy claims priming is important and to tighten to 60 ft. lbs. If the rear tensioner is primed you can't even seat it fully with out excessive force . 37 ft. lbs. is the specified torque .
Can anybody tell me why my 2000 explorer makes a clanking noise when I shut it off
Thank you for the video. Ford says there are 3 tensioners on my 06
did both videos ,and my top still rattles. what did i do wrong
hey man did yours have a washer on the passenger side?
washers on both, best I remember doing both mine in a 2000 SOHC
What kind of oil do you use or recommend to use to be good hydraulic pressure
+Annabell Silva whatever oil your engine uses
Question does this video apply to 1st gen sohc 4.0 like a 97 explorer sport 4.0 sohc does not even rattle at cold starts and has 169,000 miles but want to do it for just peace of mind
mate i'm in Australia and have a 1999 mld ford explorer and is it ok to put in 2004 chain tensioner in mine? and if it makes the same noise when warm is that bad it's got good oil pressure
spoke to auto parts guy . he said not agood idea to change them . former mecanic
My 06 just started to have the cold start rattle today after about 45 seconds it was back to normal guess ill be doing this next weekend
Any update buddy?
@@chrisrivera5451 yep changed those tensioners and doesn't do it anymore
I have a 1999 and I was told that I had to replace the timing chain on the drivers' side. I get a rattle when the engine is hot. At start up no noise. What would you recommend?
What did you end up changing ? Or doing to fix it ?
@@chris5.0coyote28 Nothing, it still rattles.
so i took my explorer in today to see what the rattling was and they said they need to pull the whole engine out to fix the timing chain. $2k just in labor for removing the engine. what are the chances its just the tensioners?
Timing chain replacement requires removing the engine. There's something on the back of the engine needing to be involved. The chain rubs against cassettes which are plastic. There are special Ford tools needed which are expensive. Try this method first.
If it is only cold start rattle, that is tensioners. If the rattle is continuous, that is the death rattle.
How much did the part cost and how many tensioner's are there ?
Any chance you'd wanna fix mine
Did you prime them before the install?
no
Where bought the tensors amigo?
I'd suggest getting these direct from a Ford dealer.
There's a lot of counterfeit parts out there.
And from what I've seen, only the Motorcraft tensioners actually work!
I ordered some Cloyes tensioners, and sent them back when I found they had the same or slightly less spring tension than the original ones (100,000 miles +).
No priming?
what if it rattle/tick when warm... and at cold starts....not bad while cold but after warming up its a faster rattle/tick
unless... my 04 ranger 4.0 sohc ate through the left inside chain guide and chain rides on the bolt that used to hold the guide.
would it be the same for a 2000 ford explorer
i have a 98 Ford explorer and my problem started when the spring inside where the pully or surpentine belt popped off while on freeway. ever since then i have no power and my car sounds like it has a exaughst leak. ^/7 mechanics later I'm still without my car. Help..WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN DAMAGED TO WHERE THERE IS NO POWER! AND LOUD??
THE RANGER WE NEED TO SEE THE RANGER
good video can you item #
2001 ford explorer 2d sport lots of chain noise got got po174 will try this thanks
Hey I did this and when I turned the truck back on all my oil came out can u help it's a 98 Ford explorer sport
I am having the same problem what is the advice?
Great job from Aleskyfinis
What he forgot to tell u unless u get lucky number 1 plus 5 cylinder should be top dead center before u loosen that front or rear tension because it may Crack your cylinder head or camshafts due to the release of torque against the cam and tension against cylinder head
No. The rear is pretty much the same, but the front is quite different. Though in the same place, you need to pull the intake manifold to get to it. Try visiting explorer forum .com they have a whole lot of info there on the 97 SOHC.
u said the amount of pounds for each tensioner u did....but u didnt use a torque wrench.
Are tensioners in the same place on a 2002 explorer sport trac..?
excellent video
I did not know that for the ranger till it's to late I need a new motor but I'm going to put a motor in it
Can you add part numbers
Thank you
Careful, while the vids here are excellent, your SOHC is different and needs the intake manifold pulled.
i think i saw a misfire almost at the end of the vid! you could see a electrical arc in the middle of the screen.
Andres Secaira you are right sir there's a misfire all over the motor
Damn good, thanks
Why? For all intents and purposes, same engine.
aND THE CAR FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STALL AT A LIGHT OR A STOP
Vacuum leak listen for a sucking noise or check all the hoses make sure they're not cracked or have a hole in them
Yvet Carabajal did you ever find out what it was? Did you have a combination of the ticking noise and loss of power simultaneously? Please get back to me. I’m having the same problems.