And a big AMEN to the not Kitting out your ride immediately. I have been offroading for a many years. One thing that I have learned is "Just start doing it and adapt as you need" I know that my rig is different then someone else's. This is true, however mine does what I do exceptionally well. Lesson is to start, figure out what you like, adapt accordingly.
@@radaraacf Yeah I was using off roader and dirt roader to illustrate the difference, but soft roader is a much richer expression. Like bro dozer and mall crawler carry a lot of meaning and are fun to say, the perfect balance of description and insult.
I always thought a soft roader was xtrail or rav 4. Soccer mum was a kluger or pathfinder. And mall crawler was a fully capable 4*4 but too nice for off-roading, big shiny mags low profile wheels
@@gel.blaster.j7943 I see that a lot here in NZ the number of pickups here with all sorts of addons then they have massive alloys and low profile tyres. it's bad enough I have 18's and 60% on my Pajero, some of them here are 19 and 20 with 40% walls. they must have a ton of money.
Myth: A rooftop tent is necessary for offroad travel, and you should leave it on year round just to make sure everyone knows you have a hobby and income.
It’s just not practical to remove the damn thing after every trip, I slept in a ground tent last weekend because I left in a rush and headed to camp , no help or time to put the RTT back on 💁🏻♂️
@@stevenq3840 Oh that totally makes sense, I understand. That's one reason I'll never get one until I have a barn where I can just hoist it up and leave it overhead. I'm talking about the guys who leave them up there year round, caked with filthy snow or the ones who like that it makes them look legit.. I live in Utah, you see the full spectrum. People who really use ski racks and RTT, people who use them occasionally, people who think it makes them look local.
Your first myth is similar to something I tell people about companies that make fishing gear. There are hundreds, if not thousands of companies making fishing gear, but none of them are trying to catch fish they're trying to catch fishermen. ;-) Hello from Kingman, Arizona in the United States.
Yeah, fish are not getting more culturally sophisticated so you need a new lure every couple of weeks to keep them interested. You are much better off spending time hunting out spots and practicing your presentation of lures.
great show as usual ronny . i have a 2010 ifs hilux the trouble with ifs is the cv boot rubbers are deliberatly made of poor quality rubber and die from fatigue. secondly i regularly drive off track gold prospecting and the cv boots are prone to being punctured by sticks
Myth:11, soft rope is actually safer than steel cable. When it snaps it doesn’t carry the weight that steel cable does and won’t damage as much as steel. My experience is being a tow truck driver with both steel cable and soft rope. Soft rope snaps more. But is less dangerous.
Hang on are you saying I no longer need to sell my house and all my belongings to buy a 100k four wheel drive, chop the back off it to extend the chassis do a gvm upgrade stick another 80k into it with canopies, roof top tents, lithium batteries, inverters, coffee machines, beer kegs etc so I can have fun even though I won’t be able to afford the fuel to actually go anywhere. Boy that’s lucky I guess I can stick with my old Hj47 a swag and an esky. Good video mate 👍keeping it real
40 72 If you owned a std 4wd & learned you were going to be dropping your 2yr off at day care in the mornings soon you better drive straight to TJM or ARB & get your car kitted our for it. You’ll need a 2 inch lift, MT tyres, probably a steel bull bar, a snorkel & side awning just to begin with. A rear diff lock may be needed for rainy days. I hate cash for comment stuff. What I’ve learned is never believe a word of anything anyone tells you when they’re trying to sell you something.
Re locking hubs. I worked for a long time in a job driving off road heaps. I hated free wheeling hubs and left them locked always. I found you were already in trouble by the time you remembered them. Then you were often walking through mud to lock them or in a recovery situation.
I'm in Iowa (USA) and I was told I needed a lift kit, winch, and mud tires before I even thought about offroading. As a woman never having owned a 4wd vehicle I believed it: until I had a frank conversation with a manager at Discount Tire. He asked if I was planning on taking a long trip to Moab or somewhere other than Iowa... no. Do you plan on buying new rims and tires to alternate for winter/highway driving miles? No . I drive 100 miles daily round trip to and from work with this vehicle. He recommended leaving my current stock vehicle alone. I was grateful.
Do a pub and a CFA shed make a place a 'major city'? If not, then by that definition I'm 'overlanding' every time I take my car down my driveway. I like it!
Myth 10 was the eye opener for me as I always believed that you only engaged the front hubs when you are in 4wd, thanks for another great informative video Ronny mate your a legend 👍👍
Ronny speaks common sense. I’ve been stuck in the Pilbara for 7 months and am heading home in 4 weeks. After lockdown I bought a hemi 2006 Jeep grand Cherokee in Perth. It was 100% bog stock with 69000km running continental tyres. Didn’t even have a tow bar. I’ve gone all over the place with it whilst over here. On dirt roads I’ve just let the tyres down a little - and best thing is it’s fully locked in low range. I just bought some camping gear and have had a ball. Can’t wait to get back and hit all the blue mountain tracks and south coast tracks. Just pack a swag, a billy and get out there. You’ll realise you don’t need all the fancy gear🤘🤘
Hi Ronny, I admire your honesty. I have a 2009 pre upgrade 76 with just a 2in lift and a 3in exhaust. I live in the Kimbererly and have been down every rough, rock strewn and shitty road up here you could imangine, towing a leaf sprung camper trailer with my wife and 2 kids and we have done it with relative ease. Having a fully kitted out car like yours would be great (yes I'm jealous...) but it's not essential to experiance this great state of ours. Thanks for the content you create. always enjoy your vids.
Single best modification is lockers front and back. 4WD action demonstrated this beautifully with an old Lux with lockers and 30” road tyres keeping up with an old GQ on 35” muddies and no lockers. After lockers, a decent set of light truck all terrain tyres. Lastly, the most useful recovery gear being simply a decent tyre deflator and compressor. Really love your no nonsense practical approach Ronny. Keep it up.
Spot on! Our stock Gen 2 Pajero took us from Inuvik to southern California to Prudhoe Bay. The Current 80 series is getting built over time, but it's still taking us to amazing places as the build up takes place.
80 k/h on corrugated road 200 k west of alice springs in a troopy, smooth ride until a bend then 4 wheel drift across road, lucky i was on the inside of the bend. lesson learnt. the height and distance between corrugations can vary on bends. when riding the tops of corrugations you have half the traction on the road. never thought of airing down, great advice Ronny.
Nice to see some honest comment! Particularly about keeping the weight down, besides making it harder to recover don"t forget if the worst happens that insurance companies pick up your vehicle and all your gear and weigh it, over GMV and no cover!! Keep up the good work. Cheers Steve
👍👍 like the first one specially. You don't need every accessory to go off-road. But you do need to know your limits( which is the most important thing so you don't end up regretting the experience.)
I wondered why my wife subscribed me to your channel?!?!?! She alerts me with EXTRA emphasis when an upload such as this appears. You and I live in different worlds but in very closely the same 4x4 off-road environment. Sadly, she thinks most of my off-road expenses and precautions are unnecessary. I own (and preciously maintain a 1993 Land Rover Defender 90). It is as close to ‘stock’ as it can be in this modern world. I have an emergency tire repair kit, an air compressor for tires and such, six recovery points equally split between both ends, a Yankum recovery rope, hard and soft shackles and a spare tire jack and lugnut wrench that fits and works. I carry emergency tools and know how to use them. There is both grease and blood equally smooched into the tool grips. Governments and laws of the lands vary but I also carry with me a personal weapon to defend myself against dinosaurs, hippopotamus, alligators , bison, grizzly bears, mosquitos, no-see ‘ums or unfriendly camping neighbors. Hopefully I’ll see you on the trail. My radio will be be blasting AC-DC’s, “Highway to Hell”. I will not be offended if you or anyone else asks me to turn in down; or, calls me, ‘old man’.
Did a 4wd course a while back and the instructor was very definite about sticking the vehicle in 4wd as soon as you hit dirt and to also air down. I heard a salesman in a well known 4wd accessory place saying that the winch ropes should be changed every couple of years due to UV damage. I watch a lot of yachting videos and a lot of them are using dyneema rope for their standing rigging. It would be way more exposed to the elements than a winch rope and would, I think, be under a lot more constant load as well. Pretty sure that they said that they are good for 7 years or more, from memory. My vehicle has an AWD setting which basically doesn't engage the centre diff. I was doing some fairly easy sand tracks so I chucked it into AWD from 4wd as there didn't seem a lot of point in using the centre diff for no real reason. Of course I then hit a couple of big soft sand patches, one on a steep uphill, which I thought would bog it for sure. Was pretty amazed at just how good it was tbh. Bit of hesitation then the traction control and other systems kicked in and it went straight through it. There was another 4wd in front of me that had everything locked in and it made it harder work of one patch, but it was a heavier vehicle. I would be very interested to see a comparo of the two settings by someone who is good enough to evaluate them properly.
Yup, my old Jeep is AWD. One of the first such vehicles. You can still lock it to 4WD but it is called Emergency Drive. Works fine in AWD for most everything I do.
@@robertcroll6546 Wow this one goes back a bit. Yeah you're likely correct and I don't do enough to compare them properly but it was more that I was pretty impressed with it when I thought it would struggle.
This why we love and respect you Ronnie...... On popular demand, do a video on how to handle long corrugated road..... Also, how much of pressure should be maintained when one is driving on a delapidated tarmac.... or a route having both good tarmac and worn out and broken roads at regular intervals.....
Amen to Number 1, I use to drive a little AWD Honda Element in the desert around Southern Nevada and Arizona. People would comment all the time "How the hell did you get that thing out here?" Or "You must be lost." I would smile, looking at their $10k Suspensions and crazy snorkels (in an area that only rains a few inches a year). It ain't what ya drive kid.
@@steveg1854 depends on what you call 4x4 trails. Here in the desert of Arizona,(well at least the NW) it lots of long cow paths, Sand, some little ditches, tight canyons and lots of pea gravel river beds .But very little a decent AWD on a light vehicle with a short wheelbase can't handle. If your not a ham fisted moron, that is. EDIT. A lot of it is also knowing your vehicle and how it will "react" to the terrian and challenges. Getting VERY clever with wheel placement, throttle , and brake control. Ya its not going to be diving into deep mud or crawling over boulders. But I have always been about exploring and seeing what is out there, not how fast I can brake my truck.
I used to have a Honda Element too. In fact I think there’s a lot of usefulness to having an all wheel drive vehicle first, because it teaches you about wheel placement and the importance of keeping all your wheels on the ground. I did many trails around Moab in my Element and got the same looks from others in their expensive rigs. I rarely scraped because smart wheel placement can get you through many situations on moderate difficulty trails where ground clearance isn’t enough. You learn to get out and study the terrain and really learn the limits of your vehicle. It also shows you what you really need to do the trails you want to do. I now drive a 4Runner SR5 and just upgraded the shocks and tires and it takes me pretty much anywhere I want to go. It’s not a rock crawler, but that’s not what I’m looking to do. I want to explore and camp in remote areas and remain as light as possible. Most of what people call “overlanding” is just soft-roading in a kitted out vehicle.
Hi there Ronny, Aussie in Japan here. First of all I’d like to thank you for making these videos. I’ve learned so much from them. Since I’m about to buy my first 4x4 I was not sure what to get, I sure do now thanks to all the useful information you have given. I’ll be joining a 4x4 club here that has 400 members, thanks to your videos I can at least join them now not looking so clueless :-)
My Gen 3 Pajero has kept up with everyone else Ive wheeled with, Patrols, Landcruisers, Prados, Rangers etc etc. I have IFS & IRS. The LSD in the back of the Pajero is a great diff too and helps a lot.
My brother has had a couple of Pajeros now, keeps them bog stock for fuel economy and light weight and goes all over the place it on road tyres. Surprises a lot of people and it is also a very capable tow vehicle.
@@oldbloke204 mines far from stock now but fuel economy isn't too bad. Maybe 1L/100km difference. I was very skeptical when buying it because you hear Lancruiser & Patrol for off roading but the Pajero has surprised me and now I've fallen in love with it. It's a beast of a car with a 40mm lift and all terrain tires.
@@MicksGarageDarts Yeah nice. A mate of my brothers runs a 4wd store of a very well known brand and it is his vehicle of choice. His job is selling and installing gear on all brands. I reckon I have made the fuel economy on my sport worse than what you have experienced but then they are super smooth and rounded which gets stuffed up when you put a bar, roof racks and the like on it. I doubt that they actually do much better than the older Paj tbh. Sad to see that they have stopped making them. Probably one of the most underrated and easy to use 4wd systems going around as well.
@@oldbloke204 I need new suspension and currently get around 14-15L/100 with Alloy bar, roof racks and cage with solar on the roof, 2nd battery, Fridge, drawer etc. 3.5L v6.
Hubs locked in is not something I have to worry about with the 90 series but with the 60 we generally left them locked. It's pretty easy to hit some tough sections of track and forget you haven't locked the hubs. After doing this once or twice and wondering why the going was so difficult, I just left them locked all the time.
Thank you, your first listed Myth is one I have always believed in. I go overlanding, boondocking or whatever you want to call it regularly mostly on weekend trips. We do beaches, sand dunes, mountain trails and most places are accessible with an unmodified stock off-road vehicle. There have been a few times I have had to resort to using my diff-lock, but that too came standard with my car and I could have made it through without the diff-lock, just would have been harder. Only upgrade I tell people they must have is a good all terrain tire. It's a pain having to change a flat tire on a narrow mountain road with a 1 km drop on the edge. I drive a stock Ranger Wildtrack with only a few cosmetic changes and a custom tow-bar. Very few places I can't go to. Modifications are needed only if you intentionally want to challenge yourself by taking the hardest path possible to get to your destination.
From South Africa my myth bust is tyres : - wider is better, especially in sand.... Absolutely false, pizza-cutters are better, it's all about building up a wider wall just in front of the Tyre x 4
My old Toyota has had the same blinker fluid in it now for the last 25 years, even with a cracked lens, but blinker fluid was thicker back then so I guess that's why it never leaked out. Myth 12 is that it's absolute fallacy that you need friction modified blinker fluid for older cars, that's just for those with modern LED indicators.
Thanks for another awesome video Ron. I've said before but you really are appreciated here. U really take your time and explain things . You give the reasons behind your comments, u aren't just throwing stuff out there and telling everyone to follow your advice. Your casual laid back style is like chatting with one of my buddies. We love you in the USA, keep it up brother 👍
Not sure if many of you would have heard of a bloke named Jack Absalom. He was a Broken Hill based artist and bushy that did TV shows back in the 80's. He used to get around in a 2wd sigma and regularly travel the Strez and Birdsville tracks in it, and along the way give driving and survival tips etc for outback driving. I would highly recommend watching some of his shows each time you get the urge to visit your local ARB or TJM store:)
Yes - and he has written a book called Safe Outback Travel - lots of good common-sense stuff. It’s prob out of print, but if you see a copy - grab it as it’s worth its weight in gold !
Biggest myth of all: "I've got a huge V8 and plenty of neddies under the bonnet.....so I don't need to lower my tyre pressures for sand etc".......hahahaha
@@slateslavens I love my 6.6 litre V8 Duramax....it makes life so much easier as far as overtaking when I'm towing the caravan etc. However, I'm under no illusion....power does NOT equal traction!!!
With using 4wd on gravel roads, its important to make sure its in locked 4wd, even if you have a constant 4wd vehicle like a Landcruiser or Prado. Reason for this is its often the trigger for different systems in the vehicle that changes the way that the vehicle behaves. For example, with the 100 and 200 series, if you lock the centre diff, it changes the behavior of the ABS system to allow more wheel lock up when your hard on the anchors. Normal road spec ABS on gravel is garbage- it detects the wheel locking up and releases it and increases your braking distance. By engaging the centre diff lock your eliminating a lot of the wheel speed difference between the two ends of the car, your distributing the brake force more evenly too via the mechanical connection in the transfer case and the ABS system allows the wheels to lock up more, which helps build a berm of dirt/sand/gravel in front of your wheels and slows you down better. On loose gravel roads, if I fully panic brake my 100 series with the centre diff locked, its literally 1/2 the stopping distance than if i do the same thing with the centre diff unlocked
I think in the case of newer cars its important to read the manual and find out all the caveats with the electronic traction system, and how they are effected by the different modes.
Great video. When u do the corrugation video could u please mention slowing right down when passing trucks? Sick to death of 4x4s among others passing us flat out and showering us in rocks chipping windscreens and paint. Thanks mate keep up the good work
I have had multiple windscreens chipped by passing trucks. Maybe Ronnie should do a video teaching truckings how to clean their beds and steering in a straight line :)
Thanks! It’s interesting to see almost the same myths in Australia as we get in the States. You Australians have learned a thing or two about off-roading!
People say to me when on long desert hauls, " just throw you stuff on the back of the ute" the most important thing is to cover your load, I have lost so much stuff off roof racks and ute backs. Now I use gorilla nets on the roof and tray for firewood, swags and storage boxes. Straps are good but they fail on soft swags and can come loose, timber can shift, loads move. Cover your load I reckon.
IFS any day mate. Once stock Prado. $12k upgrades 2inch lift, brake upgrade, underbody protection, tyres, other electronic things, and yes twin locked. $32k all up. Now let me tell ya.....I go anywhere and up anything. I have to ask those big solid axle cars to move so I can quickly pass. Some of those rigs are $100k plus. I'm about 2.8ton semi loaded and have the comfort of IFS, wheel lifts look good too. Yes lockers are needed, but all rigs need em. May be a Prado but it's still a land cruiser. 180 ltr stock tank is gold, no Jerry's needed, almost 2k KMs highway use. Good at taking kids to soccer too, all that boot space for shopping.
I know a bunch of old diggers who laugh at todays modified 4wd's. Think, don't drive through it drive around it, have a plan etc... old Land Cruiser or Land Rover with cookie cutters will take you anywhere is the message
Thanks for that trailer tyre one! I recently rented an off-road trailer for a camping trip and it had chunky off-road tyres and I spent a lot of time wondering why it needed them instead of normal road tyres, seeing as they aren’t drive wheels, but this video helped clarify 👌🏽
In the Netherlands we call them wasbord! #EWTPWGYE www.survivaltrotter.com -->There is a 4wd-webpage. Suggestions are very welcome survivaltrotter@gmail.com
Hey Ronny, thank you for debunking the myths, I enjoy watching your videos very much and appreciate the honest advice. I have one question which I have gotten conflicting advice for from different people. The question is Should you drive in high range or low range when you are driving in soft sand? Some people say that you are putting too much stress on the gearbox if you are in high range, others say the opposite is true. When I go 4 wheeling it's usually on the beach as I would be trying to find a quite fishing spot. The only times I have used low range would be if I was stuck in soft sand or if I was driving on either soft or compacted sand dunes with many tricky bends where low speed is required to prevent damage to the ute. What is your advice for driving in soft sand or tricky sections where driving slow is a must? Thanks in advance.
97 4runner with 250,000 miles, simple 3 inch lift, 33 inch AT's, full size spare, compressor and tow strap. That's all I have, that's all I can afford and that's all I need. Might get winch, front bumper, rock sliders and rear locker to do some stuff at Moab after I get more experience.
Honestly if your vehicle uses way more fuel in 4 wheel drive or with locked hubs go check your front CVs. I'll also add that if you notice your vehicle pulling to one side after a trip check both your hubs are unlocked before you take it in for a wheel alignment.
Brilliant video, so glad content like this is being put up, if only to make people safer. P.s. locking hubs and too fast on corrugations were my two here (back in the day I should say ;-) )
You are putting out some great tech vids ATM Ronny, keep it up! About the locking hubs, I’ve bought three 70 series land cruisers new and Toyota insisted that the first 1000km had to be done with the hubs in to ‘bed’ them in.
The hubs locked myth comes from how the driveline and front diff work. The real problem is when you only have one hub locked and you get very large speed difference between the left and right sides of the diff. This can can damage the diff. If both are locked and you have it out of 4WD you are powering the diff backwards (power in through the wheels and out then diff to the front prop shaft). Not a huge problem because the only load is the prop shaft rotational inertia. However diffs are not designed or tested to work this way and so the manufacturer has to tell you not to do it. If you have 4WD enabled and no hubs locked the diff just spins the axle shafts and nothing much happens, so that’s not a problem. If you have 4WD engaged and only one hub locked you get a similar scenario as if you had the unlocked hub tyre in the air, but at highway speeds you will have the same speed imbalance and it’s not a good idea.
On the explanation to how to drive on corrugations I would compare how a ball bounces back in your hand when at full pressure, if you lower the pressure to 3/4 or lower, it won't return back into your hand, hence the wheel with lower pressure won't bounce as much. BTW I do like and agree with you on 99% of your explanations. Great job, keep it up.
Great video mate. There certainly is a lot of myths out there and it’s even worse when you try tell someone that what they are doing is not only wrong but dangerous but they just don’t want to listen because they have been doing it for 10 years and that’s how they were taught to do it. Keep on educating us brother.
Love watching these myths getting solved , very informative and true information , only thing I'd say is a few small mods and simple toolkit and gear to make 4x4 ing easier are worth it worth but no need to go over the top unless your really out in the sticks or it's your passion and you do it anytime you can 👍
Some basic recovery gear and tools are always a good idea. Even if its just to help a mate in a normal car that has hit a soft patch on their lawn or someone that has broken down get off the road into safety.
Yeah I had a jeep Cherokee quaratrac. It was 4x4 all the time. Still got 16 mpg on the highway with a big V-8. With a limited slip on the rear axle I never noticed any adverse effects of it being a full time 4x4.
You need a full kitted rig when you want a full kitted rig. The only true thing you need is a reliable 4x4, a way to call for support if something happens (CB, UHF, SatPhone) .. And the mindset of safety (don't over work the capabilities of the rig you take up there. Ride according to the limits you have)
Man, I love your videos ! I've learned so much just by watching them... Makes me wanna hit the trails way more often ! Have you ever thought about doing a video with Andrew from 4xOverland?
Thanks for the first one, I only have a 2014 challenger which I’ve fitted with A/T tyres, recovering points and bash plates. I know that I won’t match it with a cruiser but I have gotten to some amazing places with it and I still have money for fuel
My Land Cruiser prado is full time 4WD with locking diffs and selectable 4L. So no worries about having to change to 4WD. But if I drive it on a dry surface with the diff locked it will judder, even more so in 4L, so would only lock it when on a rough, loose surface or in snow if 4H without lockers is not enough.
#8 is awesome. We're all in the same pit brother. You'll find me on the bottom by the bilge pump. #9 is good too (never new that). Excellent video really enjoyed it. Good production too, new studio is starting to pay off. Thanks mate(s)
But thats USA youtubers for you. 100s of youtube videos on "How to build an overland vehicle" but not a single video of them overlanding, just driving to a camping site down the way.
More people are interested on how to build the vehicle than watching someone else overland to be honest. If I'm gonna watch someone else wheel, I'd rather watch hardcore rock crawling or prerunning than some dork overlanding lol.
@G Riv actually do watch those guys. Do you mean X O? They're more wild camping than overlanding last couple years. They arctic adventure was OK. A lot of hype and little else
Great video. Don't forget to improve your roof led bars location so they don't shine/reflect on your bonnet PD. Isn't your bug deflector afecting the intercooler performance? This is... the plastic in front of your bonnet.
Ronny. Thank you for making such good and informative 4x4 videos! I am new to the hobby and me and my wife like to go on trips to places others cant go. I enjoy the fact that you seem to be aware of what is really essential and practical unlike a lot of other 4x4 channels which seems to be really just "gear porn".
Funny how the trade offs work. I had more than enough weight in camping gear but thing in recovery when I started. Now I bring minimal camping gear but I'm more prepared if something happens on the road in terms of recovery. Basically if you're going to add weight to your vehicle do it in all the right places.
I dig these type of videos more than the trip ones most of the times. Keep bringing the tip Ronny. What if you have 20KM of corrugation daily commute with a little of of tar as well?
1:44 Yeas but because there is not central diff there will be more strain on a power the power train, you'll wear U-joints out quicker or even break the transfer case or heaven forbid, the gearbox. Buuut, I might be biased because in my neck of the woods, we spit on loose gravel, it's the ice that kills.
Steel cable lasts longer and is far more durable if it comes in contact to rocks or the ground (which it shouldn't but sometimes things happen during a pull). Breaking strength is comparable and if you stand clear you will be safe whether it's steel or synthetic. For the price that's why I prefer steel every time
And a big AMEN to the not Kitting out your ride immediately. I have been offroading for a many years. One thing that I have learned is "Just start doing it and adapt as you need" I know that my rig is different then someone else's. This is true, however mine does what I do exceptionally well. Lesson is to start, figure out what you like, adapt accordingly.
"Soft roading" I've been trying to come up with a good simple phrase for this for a while but your soft roaders is just perfect!
The term soft roader has been around for decades. Definitely not a Ronny term 😂
I always referred to it as soccer mum cars but same dif
@@radaraacf Yeah I was using off roader and dirt roader to illustrate the difference, but soft roader is a much richer expression. Like bro dozer and mall crawler carry a lot of meaning and are fun to say, the perfect balance of description and insult.
I always thought a soft roader was xtrail or rav 4. Soccer mum was a kluger or pathfinder. And mall crawler was a fully capable 4*4 but too nice for off-roading, big shiny mags low profile wheels
@@gel.blaster.j7943 I see that a lot here in NZ the number of pickups here with all sorts of addons then they have massive alloys and low profile tyres. it's bad enough I have 18's and 60% on my Pajero, some of them here are 19 and 20 with 40% walls. they must have a ton of money.
Myth: A rooftop tent is necessary for offroad travel, and you should leave it on year round just to make sure everyone knows you have a hobby and income.
Sarcasm!😁
Hahahahahha i so think that aswell
Of course... And probably only gets used once or twice a year?
It’s just not practical to remove the damn thing after every trip, I slept in a ground tent last weekend because I left in a rush and headed to camp , no help or time to put the RTT back on 💁🏻♂️
@@stevenq3840 Oh that totally makes sense, I understand. That's one reason I'll never get one until I have a barn where I can just hoist it up and leave it overhead. I'm talking about the guys who leave them up there year round, caked with filthy snow or the ones who like that it makes them look legit.. I live in Utah, you see the full spectrum. People who really use ski racks and RTT, people who use them occasionally, people who think it makes them look local.
Your first myth is similar to something I tell people about companies that make fishing gear. There are hundreds, if not thousands of companies making fishing gear, but none of them are trying to catch fish they're trying to catch fishermen. ;-) Hello from Kingman, Arizona in the United States.
Lol, you can get all the best equipment in the world but a worm and a float still works wonders
ha! I'm from Kingman. Your channel picture looks like the shooting pit near the black bridge.
Yeah, fish are not getting more culturally sophisticated so you need a new lure every couple of weeks to keep them interested. You are much better off spending time hunting out spots and practicing your presentation of lures.
Hello from kingman as well. Small world I guess.
great show as usual ronny . i have a 2010 ifs hilux the trouble with ifs is the cv boot rubbers are deliberatly made of poor quality rubber and die from fatigue. secondly i regularly drive off track gold prospecting and the cv boots are prone to being punctured by sticks
Myth:11, soft rope is actually safer than steel cable. When it snaps it doesn’t carry the weight that steel cable does and won’t damage as much as steel.
My experience is being a tow truck driver with both steel cable and soft rope. Soft rope snaps more. But is less dangerous.
Hang on are you saying I no longer need to sell my house and all my belongings to buy a 100k four wheel drive, chop the back off it to extend the chassis do a gvm upgrade stick another 80k into it with canopies, roof top tents, lithium batteries, inverters, coffee machines, beer kegs etc so I can have fun even though I won’t be able to afford the fuel to actually go anywhere. Boy that’s lucky I guess I can stick with my old Hj47 a swag and an esky. Good video mate 👍keeping it real
No, you do need all those things, even if just driving on a well groomed dirt road for 20 minutes.
Cliff Booth or even just for picking the kids up from school
40 72
If you owned a std 4wd & learned you were going to be dropping your 2yr off at day care in the mornings soon you better drive straight to TJM or ARB & get your car kitted our for it. You’ll need a 2 inch lift, MT tyres, probably a steel bull bar, a snorkel & side awning just to begin with. A rear diff lock may be needed for rainy days. I hate cash for comment stuff. What I’ve learned is never believe a word of anything anyone tells you when they’re trying to sell you something.
Cliff Booth that’s only the start of it mate what about all the recovery gear you need to go to your 10am yoga session on a Tuesday morning
Right, If you got a stock standard Toyota 70 series you only need to upgrade to all terrains or maybe mud terrains. But...
Re locking hubs. I worked for a long time in a job driving off road heaps. I hated free wheeling hubs and left them locked always. I found you were already in trouble by the time you remembered them. Then you were often walking through mud to lock them or in a recovery situation.
I'm in Iowa (USA) and I was told I needed a lift kit, winch, and mud tires before I even thought about offroading. As a woman never having owned a 4wd vehicle I believed it: until I had a frank conversation with a manager at Discount Tire. He asked if I was planning on taking a long trip to Moab or somewhere other than Iowa... no.
Do you plan on buying new rims and tires to alternate for winter/highway driving miles? No
.
I drive 100 miles daily round trip to and from work with this vehicle. He recommended leaving my current stock vehicle alone. I was grateful.
Myth: if you rev your engine twice before you dump the clutch it will better your chance of getting through the bog/obstacle
Everyone knows it's 3 times...
@@arrondentinger2086 🤣🤣🤣👍
@@arrondentinger2086 hah
That's not a myth, it works!! It's like knocking on wood for good luck.🤣
Ha ha ha ha ha ha is it not three times and you beep the horn?
#16. Driving within an hour away from a major city is "Overlanding."
That’s a funny one mate 😂😂
I like that, it up there with "We are going to "rough it" at the campground, the one with showers and a convenient store across the street"
DesertFernweh so true 😂 i'm happy people are getting out there though. & if they're in the campgrounds, more space for all of us elsewhere ✌️
Do a pub and a CFA shed make a place a 'major city'? If not, then by that definition I'm 'overlanding' every time I take my car down my driveway.
I like it!
Ahh yes, the gatekeeper of outdoor recreational activities definitions is here. We can finally breathe easier now.
Myth 10 was the eye opener for me as I always believed that you only engaged the front hubs when you are in 4wd, thanks for another great informative video Ronny mate your a legend 👍👍
Best part about manual locking hubs, is sweet sweet unlocked 4L (now 2L) for crawling around carparks and the line at McDonalds.
Open hubs and 4h (now 2h) gives the possibility to lock the rear diff on l200/triton=nice dirt road donuts...
@@Linkaless point of interest Hungry Jacks is way better 😂😂
The old school land rovers dont even have free wheel hubs as standard
@@rickz9495 they still didn't even in 2016.
Ronny speaks common sense. I’ve been stuck in the Pilbara for 7 months and am heading home in 4 weeks. After lockdown I bought a hemi 2006 Jeep grand Cherokee in Perth. It was 100% bog stock with 69000km running continental tyres.
Didn’t even have a tow bar. I’ve gone all over the place with it whilst over here. On dirt roads I’ve just let the tyres down a little - and best thing is it’s fully locked in low range. I just bought some camping gear and have had a ball. Can’t wait to get back and hit all the blue mountain tracks and south coast tracks. Just pack a swag, a billy and get out there. You’ll realise you don’t need all the fancy gear🤘🤘
Great videos....keep up the good work Ron....👍
Hi Ronny, I admire your honesty. I have a 2009 pre upgrade 76 with just a 2in lift and a 3in exhaust. I live in the Kimbererly and have been down every rough, rock strewn and shitty road up here you could imangine, towing a leaf sprung camper trailer with my wife and 2 kids and we have done it with relative ease. Having a fully kitted out car like yours would be great (yes I'm jealous...) but it's not essential to experiance this great state of ours. Thanks for the content you create. always enjoy your vids.
well done and explained
yes you can do it with a stock 4x4 but you will need a aircompressor
to let the tires down and up for the high way
I enjoyed that you filmed this at different locations and times. Really good to mix it up and to create an episode that was smooth to watch.
Single best modification is lockers front and back. 4WD action demonstrated this beautifully with an old Lux with lockers and 30” road tyres keeping up with an old GQ on 35” muddies and no lockers. After lockers, a decent set of light truck all terrain tyres. Lastly, the most useful recovery gear being simply a decent tyre deflator and compressor. Really love your no nonsense practical approach Ronny. Keep it up.
Spot on! Our stock Gen 2 Pajero took us from Inuvik to southern California to Prudhoe Bay. The Current 80 series is getting built over time, but it's still taking us to amazing places as the build up takes place.
Your honesty is refreshing, when virtually everyone else is trying to sell us stuff…
Thanks for saying it like it is ronny. We all get sucked into the pit but honestly its fun doing your ride up.
80 k/h on corrugated road 200 k west of alice springs in a troopy, smooth ride until a bend then 4 wheel drift across road, lucky i was on the inside of the bend. lesson learnt. the height and distance between corrugations can vary on bends. when riding the tops of corrugations you have half the traction on the road. never thought of airing down, great advice Ronny.
I am loving the Maxxis tyres, just got them on my vehicle. I can see why you like them, loving them so far, very impressed.
"Miffs" 😆
Great information in these two videos. Thanks Ronny!
Yes please, a video about the best way to drive on corrugation. Thanks Ronny!
Nice to see some honest comment! Particularly about keeping the weight down, besides making it harder to recover don"t forget if the worst happens that insurance companies pick up your vehicle and all your gear and weigh it, over GMV and no cover!! Keep up the good work. Cheers Steve
👍👍 like the first one specially. You don't need every accessory to go off-road.
But you do need to know your limits( which is the most important thing so you don't end up regretting the experience.)
I wondered why my wife subscribed me to your channel?!?!?! She alerts me with EXTRA emphasis when an upload such as this appears. You and I live in different worlds but in very closely the same 4x4 off-road environment. Sadly, she thinks most of my off-road expenses and precautions are unnecessary. I own (and preciously maintain a 1993 Land Rover Defender 90). It is as close to ‘stock’ as it can be in this modern world. I have an emergency tire repair kit, an air compressor for tires and such, six recovery points equally split between both ends, a Yankum recovery rope, hard and soft shackles and a spare tire jack and lugnut wrench that fits and works. I carry emergency tools and know how to use them. There is both grease and blood equally smooched into the tool grips. Governments and laws of the lands vary but I also carry with me a personal weapon to defend myself against dinosaurs, hippopotamus, alligators , bison, grizzly bears, mosquitos, no-see ‘ums or unfriendly camping neighbors.
Hopefully I’ll see you on the trail. My radio will be be blasting AC-DC’s, “Highway to Hell”. I will not be offended if you or anyone else asks me to turn in down; or, calls me, ‘old man’.
Did a 4wd course a while back and the instructor was very definite about sticking the vehicle in 4wd as soon as you hit dirt and to also air down.
I heard a salesman in a well known 4wd accessory place saying that the winch ropes should be changed every couple of years due to UV damage.
I watch a lot of yachting videos and a lot of them are using dyneema rope for their standing rigging. It would be way more exposed to the elements than a winch rope and would, I think, be under a lot more constant load as well.
Pretty sure that they said that they are good for 7 years or more, from memory.
My vehicle has an AWD setting which basically doesn't engage the centre diff.
I was doing some fairly easy sand tracks so I chucked it into AWD from 4wd as there didn't seem a lot of point in using the centre diff for no real reason.
Of course I then hit a couple of big soft sand patches, one on a steep uphill, which I thought would bog it for sure.
Was pretty amazed at just how good it was tbh. Bit of hesitation then the traction control and other systems kicked in and it went straight through it. There was another 4wd in front of me that had everything locked in and it made it harder work of one patch, but it was a heavier vehicle.
I would be very interested to see a comparo of the two settings by someone who is good enough to evaluate them properly.
Yup, my old Jeep is AWD. One of the first such vehicles. You can still lock it to 4WD but it is called Emergency Drive. Works fine in AWD for most everything I do.
4WD works better than AWD in sand for me but I think it's more to do with traction control being switched off in 4WD
@@robertcroll6546 Wow this one goes back a bit.
Yeah you're likely correct and I don't do enough to compare them properly but it was more that I was pretty impressed with it when I thought it would struggle.
Thank goodness for a bit of reality and honesty. Grant
This why we love and respect you Ronnie......
On popular demand, do a video on how to handle long corrugated road.....
Also, how much of pressure should be maintained when one is driving on a delapidated tarmac.... or a route having both good tarmac and worn out and broken roads at regular intervals.....
Amen to Number 1, I use to drive a little AWD Honda Element in the desert around Southern Nevada and Arizona. People would comment all the time "How the hell did you get that thing out here?" Or "You must be lost." I would smile, looking at their $10k Suspensions and crazy snorkels (in an area that only rains a few inches a year). It ain't what ya drive kid.
That's fine if you're just going down bumpy roads, but a honda element cannot do actual 4x4 trails.
@@steveg1854 depends on what you call 4x4 trails. Here in the desert of Arizona,(well at least the NW) it lots of long cow paths, Sand, some little ditches, tight canyons and lots of pea gravel river beds .But very little a decent AWD on a light vehicle with a short wheelbase can't handle. If your not a ham fisted moron, that is.
EDIT. A lot of it is also knowing your vehicle and how it will "react" to the terrian and challenges. Getting VERY clever with wheel placement, throttle , and brake control. Ya its not going to be diving into deep mud or crawling over boulders. But I have always been about exploring and seeing what is out there, not how fast I can brake my truck.
I used to have a Honda Element too. In fact I think there’s a lot of usefulness to having an all wheel drive vehicle first, because it teaches you about wheel placement and the importance of keeping all your wheels on the ground. I did many trails around Moab in my Element and got the same looks from others in their expensive rigs. I rarely scraped because smart wheel placement can get you through many situations on moderate difficulty trails where ground clearance isn’t enough. You learn to get out and study the terrain and really learn the limits of your vehicle. It also shows you what you really need to do the trails you want to do. I now drive a 4Runner SR5 and just upgraded the shocks and tires and it takes me pretty much anywhere I want to go. It’s not a rock crawler, but that’s not what I’m looking to do. I want to explore and camp in remote areas and remain as light as possible. Most of what people call “overlanding” is just soft-roading in a kitted out vehicle.
Hi there Ronny, Aussie in Japan here. First of all I’d like to thank you for making these videos. I’ve learned so much from them. Since I’m about to buy my first 4x4 I was not sure what to get, I sure do now thanks to all the useful information you have given. I’ll be joining a 4x4 club here that has 400 members, thanks to your videos I can at least join them now not looking so clueless :-)
You Aussies are awesome!!
The y62 patrol and the pajero are both front and rear independent suspension and are very capable offroaders.
My Gen 3 Pajero has kept up with everyone else Ive wheeled with, Patrols, Landcruisers, Prados, Rangers etc etc. I have IFS & IRS. The LSD in the back of the Pajero is a great diff too and helps a lot.
My brother has had a couple of Pajeros now, keeps them bog stock for fuel economy and light weight and goes all over the place it on road tyres.
Surprises a lot of people and it is also a very capable tow vehicle.
@@oldbloke204 mines far from stock now but fuel economy isn't too bad. Maybe 1L/100km difference. I was very skeptical when buying it because you hear Lancruiser & Patrol for off roading but the Pajero has surprised me and now I've fallen in love with it. It's a beast of a car with a 40mm lift and all terrain tires.
@@MicksGarageDarts Yeah nice.
A mate of my brothers runs a 4wd store of a very well known brand and it is his vehicle of choice.
His job is selling and installing gear on all brands.
I reckon I have made the fuel economy on my sport worse than what you have experienced but then they are super smooth and rounded which gets stuffed up when you put a bar, roof racks and the like on it.
I doubt that they actually do much better than the older Paj tbh.
Sad to see that they have stopped making them.
Probably one of the most underrated and easy to use 4wd systems going around as well.
@@oldbloke204 I need new suspension and currently get around 14-15L/100 with Alloy bar, roof racks and cage with solar on the roof, 2nd battery, Fridge, drawer etc. 3.5L v6.
Hubs locked in is not something I have to worry about with the 90 series but with the 60 we generally left them locked. It's pretty easy to hit some tough sections of track and forget you haven't locked the hubs. After doing this once or twice and wondering why the going was so difficult, I just left them locked all the time.
Thanks Ronny Dahl, always appreciate your tips n tricks and myth videos :D Make me an informed amateur instead of just an amateur!
Thank you, your first listed Myth is one I have always believed in. I go overlanding, boondocking or whatever you want to call it regularly mostly on weekend trips. We do beaches, sand dunes, mountain trails and most places are accessible with an unmodified stock off-road vehicle. There have been a few times I have had to resort to using my diff-lock, but that too came standard with my car and I could have made it through without the diff-lock, just would have been harder. Only upgrade I tell people they must have is a good all terrain tire. It's a pain having to change a flat tire on a narrow mountain road with a 1 km drop on the edge. I drive a stock Ranger Wildtrack with only a few cosmetic changes and a custom tow-bar. Very few places I can't go to. Modifications are needed only if you intentionally want to challenge yourself by taking the hardest path possible to get to your destination.
From South Africa my myth bust is tyres : - wider is better, especially in sand.... Absolutely false, pizza-cutters are better, it's all about building up a wider wall just in front of the Tyre x 4
Myth 11. Blinker fluid lasts forever
My old Toyota has had the same blinker fluid in it now for the last 25 years, even with a cracked lens, but blinker fluid was thicker back then so I guess that's why it never leaked out. Myth 12 is that it's absolute fallacy that you need friction modified blinker fluid for older cars, that's just for those with modern LED indicators.
Don't forget the headlight fluid. They need to be replaced every 10K service.
I know it's a myth. My mechanic changes mine every time I go in for an oil change.
Thanks for another awesome video Ron. I've said before but you really are appreciated here. U really take your time and explain things . You give the reasons behind your comments, u aren't just throwing stuff out there and telling everyone to follow your advice. Your casual laid back style is like chatting with one of my buddies. We love you in the USA, keep it up brother 👍
Not sure if many of you would have heard of a bloke named Jack Absalom. He was a Broken Hill based artist and bushy that did TV shows back in the 80's. He used to get around in a 2wd sigma and regularly travel the Strez and Birdsville tracks in it, and along the way give driving and survival tips etc for outback driving. I would highly recommend watching some of his shows each time you get the urge to visit your local ARB or TJM store:)
Yes - and he has written a book called Safe Outback Travel - lots of good common-sense stuff. It’s prob out of print, but if you see a copy - grab it as it’s worth its weight in gold !
prerunners and trophy trucks run ifs and ofen fully independent. they rip along!
Yeah but they also have far more suspension travel and are kitted out much more
Yeah, can't compare those to something you get from the market place. Those are extreme custom rigs.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 i agree with both replies but... how many off roaders are anywhare near stock.i was just looking for a rise really... take care
They are also 2wd not 4wd
Hearing myth 1 busted was quite helpful for me atm. You’ve reminded me of the KISS principle in most, if not all of these myths. Thank you sir.
Biggest myth of all: "I've got a huge V8 and plenty of neddies under the bonnet.....so I don't need to lower my tyre pressures for sand etc".......hahahaha
Bro, just point it and push the pedal to the metal!
@@Agent.K. Tow companies love those guys.
I think the bigger myth here is 'I need a huge V8 under the hood'.
@@slateslavens I love my 6.6 litre V8 Duramax....it makes life so much easier as far as overtaking when I'm towing the caravan etc.
However, I'm under no illusion....power does NOT equal traction!!!
With using 4wd on gravel roads, its important to make sure its in locked 4wd, even if you have a constant 4wd vehicle like a Landcruiser or Prado.
Reason for this is its often the trigger for different systems in the vehicle that changes the way that the vehicle behaves. For example, with the 100 and 200 series, if you lock the centre diff, it changes the behavior of the ABS system to allow more wheel lock up when your hard on the anchors. Normal road spec ABS on gravel is garbage- it detects the wheel locking up and releases it and increases your braking distance. By engaging the centre diff lock your eliminating a lot of the wheel speed difference between the two ends of the car, your distributing the brake force more evenly too via the mechanical connection in the transfer case and the ABS system allows the wheels to lock up more, which helps build a berm of dirt/sand/gravel in front of your wheels and slows you down better.
On loose gravel roads, if I fully panic brake my 100 series with the centre diff locked, its literally 1/2 the stopping distance than if i do the same thing with the centre diff unlocked
I think in the case of newer cars its important to read the manual and find out all the caveats with the electronic traction system, and how they are effected by the different modes.
Great video. When u do the corrugation video could u please mention slowing right down when passing trucks? Sick to death of 4x4s among others passing us flat out and showering us in rocks chipping windscreens and paint. Thanks mate keep up the good work
I have had multiple windscreens chipped by passing trucks. Maybe Ronnie should do a video teaching truckings how to clean their beds and steering in a straight line :)
And also how about a bit of courtesy to slow when approaching vehicles travelling in the opposite direction
Ok karen
If you could only fit one diff lock, would it be to the front or back and which type would you fit for "moderate" off-road trips and applications?
Thanks! It’s interesting to see almost the same myths in Australia as we get in the States. You Australians have learned a thing or two about off-roading!
People say to me when on long desert hauls, " just throw you stuff on the back of the ute" the most important thing is to cover your load, I have lost so much stuff off roof racks and ute backs. Now I use gorilla nets on the roof and tray for firewood, swags and storage boxes. Straps are good but they fail on soft swags and can come loose, timber can shift, loads move. Cover your load I reckon.
IFS any day mate. Once stock Prado. $12k upgrades 2inch lift, brake upgrade, underbody protection, tyres, other electronic things, and yes twin locked. $32k all up. Now let me tell ya.....I go anywhere and up anything. I have to ask those big solid axle cars to move so I can quickly pass. Some of those rigs are $100k plus. I'm about 2.8ton semi loaded and have the comfort of IFS, wheel lifts look good too. Yes lockers are needed, but all rigs need em. May be a Prado but it's still a land cruiser. 180 ltr stock tank is gold, no Jerry's needed, almost 2k KMs highway use. Good at taking kids to soccer too, all that boot space for shopping.
I know a bunch of old diggers who laugh at todays modified 4wd's. Think, don't drive through it drive around it, have a plan etc... old Land Cruiser or Land Rover with cookie cutters will take you anywhere is the message
If you can keep it running, the same goes for the old willys jeeps.
Obstacles equal fun and a challenge unlike the old timers we are lucky enough to have the time and freedom to do both of those
Bunch of boomers. All they ever say is how much better everything was back in the day, I doubt they even did any real off roading. Just all talk.
That was a great presentation!
Very nice.
you are a legend mate, keep up the sensational work. always a good day when a new video is up
Its about time someone did a video like this..
Thanks for that trailer tyre one! I recently rented an off-road trailer for a camping trip and it had chunky off-road tyres and I spent a lot of time wondering why it needed them instead of normal road tyres, seeing as they aren’t drive wheels, but this video helped clarify 👌🏽
A corrugation vid. Great idea.
Thanks Ronny, have a great week!
3:50 on my big 4x4 van if you drive with hubs locked then the diff fluid can overheat and shoot out the diff breather
This is someone I’d be happy to go 4 wheel driving with.
He kept saying "Corrugations" I was wondering what he was talking about... we call em "Washboard" in South Carolina
In Tanzania we call them dog ribbs
@@tzbengt In china we call them road with lumpyness.
When they get really really bad, we call them "Horror-gations"
In the Netherlands we call them wasbord! #EWTPWGYE www.survivaltrotter.com -->There is a 4wd-webpage. Suggestions are very welcome survivaltrotter@gmail.com
Sometimes we just call it
“Normal”
Hey Ronny, thank you for debunking the myths, I enjoy watching your videos very much and appreciate the honest advice. I have one question which I have gotten conflicting advice for from different people. The question is Should you drive in high range or low range when you are driving in soft sand? Some people say that you are putting too much stress on the gearbox if you are in high range, others say the opposite is true. When I go 4 wheeling it's usually on the beach as I would be trying to find a quite fishing spot. The only times I have used low range would be if I was stuck in soft sand or if I was driving on either soft or compacted sand dunes with many tricky bends where low speed is required to prevent damage to the ute. What is your advice for driving in soft sand or tricky sections where driving slow is a must? Thanks in advance.
Love your work. .My only complaint is those bloody ADDS every minute. Thanks Ronny..
Top notch filming there Ronny! Loved this episode.
97 4runner with 250,000 miles, simple 3 inch lift, 33 inch AT's, full size spare, compressor and tow strap. That's all I have, that's all I can afford and that's all I need. Might get winch, front bumper, rock sliders and rear locker to do some stuff at Moab after I get more experience.
Great Video! Thanks Ronny and team.
You should do a video about "buying a 4X4", as what i want and have to pay attention to when getting a 4X4
pretty sure he has
Fantastic video!
Honestly if your vehicle uses way more fuel in 4 wheel drive or with locked hubs go check your front CVs. I'll also add that if you notice your vehicle pulling to one side after a trip check both your hubs are unlocked before you take it in for a wheel alignment.
Brilliant video, so glad content like this is being put up, if only to make people safer. P.s. locking hubs and too fast on corrugations were my two here (back in the day I should say ;-) )
Please do a video of "Not Myths"..
A video about very important things that one should be doing..
will come really helpful for beginners like me.
You are putting out some great tech vids ATM Ronny, keep it up! About the locking hubs, I’ve bought three 70 series land cruisers new and Toyota insisted that the first 1000km had to be done with the hubs in to ‘bed’ them in.
The hubs locked myth comes from how the driveline and front diff work.
The real problem is when you only have one hub locked and you get very large speed difference between the left and right sides of the diff. This can can damage the diff.
If both are locked and you have it out of 4WD you are powering the diff backwards (power in through the wheels and out then diff to the front prop shaft). Not a huge problem because the only load is the prop shaft rotational inertia. However diffs are not designed or tested to work this way and so the manufacturer has to tell you not to do it.
If you have 4WD enabled and no hubs locked the diff just spins the axle shafts and nothing much happens, so that’s not a problem. If you have 4WD engaged and only one hub locked you get a similar scenario as if you had the unlocked hub tyre in the air, but at highway speeds you will have the same speed imbalance and it’s not a good idea.
"Fall into the pit the rest of us have"
On the explanation to how to drive on corrugations I would compare how a ball bounces back in your hand when at full pressure, if you lower the pressure to 3/4 or lower, it won't return back into your hand, hence the wheel with lower pressure won't bounce as much. BTW I do like and agree with you on 99% of your explanations. Great job, keep it up.
Great video mate. There certainly is a lot of myths out there and it’s even worse when you try tell someone that what they are doing is not only wrong but dangerous but they just don’t want to listen because they have been doing it for 10 years and that’s how they were taught to do it.
Keep on educating us brother.
watching your videos makes me miss home in WA
Love watching these myths getting solved , very informative and true information , only thing I'd say is a few small mods and simple toolkit and gear to make 4x4 ing easier are worth it worth but no need to go over the top unless your really out in the sticks or it's your passion and you do it anytime you can 👍
Some basic recovery gear and tools are always a good idea. Even if its just to help a mate in a normal car that has hit a soft patch on their lawn or someone that has broken down get off the road into safety.
Yeah I had a jeep Cherokee quaratrac. It was 4x4 all the time. Still got 16 mpg on the highway with a big V-8. With a limited slip on the rear axle I never noticed any adverse effects of it being a full time 4x4.
You need a full kitted rig when you want a full kitted rig. The only true thing you need is a reliable 4x4, a way to call for support if something happens (CB, UHF, SatPhone) .. And the mindset of safety (don't over work the capabilities of the rig you take up there. Ride according to the limits you have)
Man, I love your videos ! I've learned so much just by watching them... Makes me wanna hit the trails way more often !
Have you ever thought about doing a video with Andrew from 4xOverland?
yes , they have already done a few .. check Ronnies back catalogue
I love your honesty and myth busting videos.
Liked before watch, already know what's coming...
Thanks for the first one, I only have a 2014 challenger which I’ve fitted with A/T tyres, recovering points and bash plates.
I know that I won’t match it with a cruiser but I have gotten to some amazing places with it and I still have money for fuel
My Land Cruiser prado is full time 4WD with locking diffs and selectable 4L. So no worries about having to change to 4WD. But if I drive it on a dry surface with the diff locked it will judder, even more so in 4L, so would only lock it when on a rough, loose surface or in snow if 4H without lockers is not enough.
Video on corrugations please! It's what I (and probably most people) dread the most!!!
Dirt roads (with & without corrugations), is it better to leave the ABS on, or switch it off?
#8 is awesome. We're all in the same pit brother. You'll find me on the bottom by the bilge pump. #9 is good too (never new that). Excellent video really enjoyed it. Good production too, new studio is starting to pay off. Thanks mate(s)
But thats USA youtubers for you. 100s of youtube videos on "How to build an overland vehicle" but not a single video of them overlanding, just driving to a camping site down the way.
More people are interested on how to build the vehicle than watching someone else overland to be honest. If I'm gonna watch someone else wheel, I'd rather watch hardcore rock crawling or prerunning than some dork overlanding lol.
@G Riv actually do watch those guys. Do you mean X O? They're more wild camping than overlanding last couple years. They arctic adventure was OK. A lot of hype and little else
@G Riv 👍🏼 will give add to my list.
Might also check out “Overland Bound”
Bronco7879 them I know
Great video. Don't forget to improve your roof led bars location so they don't shine/reflect on your bonnet
PD. Isn't your bug deflector afecting the intercooler performance? This is... the plastic in front of your bonnet.
I am subscribing just on the basis he mentioned the good old Triton as a proper 4wd, and it was a good vid anyway.
Ronny. Thank you for making such good and informative 4x4 videos! I am new to the hobby and me and my wife like to go on trips to places others cant go. I enjoy the fact that you seem to be aware of what is really essential and practical unlike a lot of other 4x4 channels which seems to be really just "gear porn".
great content as usual.
Funny how the trade offs work. I had more than enough weight in camping gear but thing in recovery when I started. Now I bring minimal camping gear but I'm more prepared if something happens on the road in terms of recovery. Basically if you're going to add weight to your vehicle do it in all the right places.
I have always wondered if those "deer whistles" that you stick on a vehicle work?
I dig these type of videos more than the trip ones most of the times. Keep bringing the tip Ronny. What if you have 20KM of corrugation daily commute with a little of of tar as well?
enjoyed it ol boy. great info as always.
1:44 Yeas but because there is not central diff there will be more strain on a power the power train, you'll wear U-joints out quicker or even break the transfer case or heaven forbid, the gearbox.
Buuut, I might be biased because in my neck of the woods, we spit on loose gravel, it's the ice that kills.
Steel cable lasts longer and is far more durable if it comes in contact to rocks or the ground (which it shouldn't but sometimes things happen during a pull). Breaking strength is comparable and if you stand clear you will be safe whether it's steel or synthetic. For the price that's why I prefer steel every time
@@smcfall2 not a novice with winch line and heavy equipment safety - but that's a very good point to consider if you are a novice
The winch rope V cable. You changed my thinking.
Good video and good info well done.