I think (personally) that the K&N Filter was a negative, not a plus. No one has convinced me they are worth anything over a regular filter. Some claim the oil mist off of the filter can mess with the MAF sensor
They're supposed to Flow more air for more power but I rode mine with the stock filter,a KN and no filter at all and it made no difference either way.what can flow air better than no filter?so as far as HP gains with KN it's a crock of 🐂. maybe it's good for something else but not HP.
As a 2005 and 2012 s t owner I'll tag along with you. But ditch that K & N filter. Stick with OEM for filters AND fluids. Right down to the Honda antifreeze. As a previous owner, You're aware of the tire cupping and also of the short tire life. Is all part of life in the big league. Run hi end dual compound tires at 40- 42 psi rr. 38-40 front. Also, that rear shock is shot, so crank up the preload to max. It prolly feels ok, til you ride a new one. Lastly. 04's were hot. remove some inner fairing panels for better airflow. Ck for a bit of air in clutch line, then sync the TB's. may consider some risers with those stock bars. my 05 is more relaxed with them. be safe.
Stumbled across your channel during my “research” on ST1300s and am very impressed! Fantastic content and quality. Kudos to a fellow BCer-I’m in White Rock. Keep up the great work!
I’ve had two. ST1300s, a very used 2003 and a two year old 2009 that had 9 miles on it. I put 1200 on the 2003 that had 41k when I bought it and 90k on the 2009. I took each in every two or three years for complete fluid changes and engine check(compression, valves, timing system. Never changed the plugs or wires. Other than that, even with towing a camper for a good bit of those miles the bikes never needed any valve adjustments or timing chains. The only problem I had was Wheel bearings on the 2003, I think the previous owner too the bike to a car wash and got water in those seals. Stellar motorcycles. Huge bags, comfy seat, bar risers, great wind and rain protection. Suggest the fairing protection kit as a way to quiet wind noise.
I just purchased a low mileage (for this bike) ST130. I have ridden them but never owned one and this is my chance. The previous owner installed a bunch of accessory lighting and it has amateur wiring running all over the bike. I have been having fun finding all the LED light strips and accent light that have been glued to various bits of the bike. The PO had stopped riding it over 4 years ago but it was started and ridden to a new address withing the last 15 months. It my cost me a new fuel pump but it will be worth it given the price I paid. Oh. . . the biggest issue with the bad wiring is the use of Scotchlok connectors. I determined that pulling them out would be worse than leaving them in place so I isolated them and left their removal to a winter project.
I’ve have an issue with my 2004 1300 Pan. When I wash it, it doesn’t like getting wet and will miss fire. I’m on a trip to Ireland and it got rained on last night now won’t start. I’ve checked spark, plugs were wet, pump is priming and F1 light goes out but still won’t start. Anyone help?
So much to check here. Stupid simple stuff is where I would start since the coils are well protected under the fairing and even wet would spark. I suspect it is the ignition pulse generator P/U sensor which is on the front of the engine, it is cracked and getting it wet is shorting it out. Obviously water is getting somewhere it shouldn't. The low voltage lines leading to the coils from the PGM/IGN Unit, and potentially a multitude of harness connectors could also be the issue but if you haven't been in those areas and pulled anything apart they should not be an issue. Finally, check the fuse box under the side panel. If the cover is cracked and water is getting in it could be the source of our lack of spark. Sorry to hear of your trouble & good luck!
Just had a look at the shop manual. Honda also suggests for your condition it maybe a faulty engine kill switch on the right handlebar. Take it apart and clean it with WD40.
Hey Rod, I’m selling my 2012 Honda ST 1300 ABS with 4700 miles on it. Garage kept new condition in black.. With extras. $9,500.. I’m 40 minutes from NYC
Ive fot 2 my P model has mine is a 2014 first registered with the Queenslabd Police service in 2016 stopped service by 2017 I bought her in 2018 she's not got over 400.000km and still runs like a new bike she's serviced every 6k and over those km I've ibly spnd money on an Altinator 2 timing tensioners not required plus a water pump also not required that was just as she got to 400.000km it runs well enough yes its heavy but irs comfortable.. so I bought an 09 model with 50.000km
Your my kind of man! I havnt bought a used bike yet that someone hasnt jacked with in some way, shape or form. I just went through a 2002 concours 1k i purchased this past june & man was it a mess, finally took it on its maiden voyage last evening. Now im looking at a 2006 ST1300 that looks good in the ad & researching them is what brought me to your video.
Those Helibars might be ugly but they make the pan hugely more comfortable on long rides. They're quite expensive so you'll get good money for them on eBay or whatever.
I had a new 2003 ST1300 and I got to say it was great! never missed a beat in 125000 miles by the time I sold it in 2013.. only bought a new Yam FJR1300 because I could not get another new Pan .
@@keithquinn5624 I have a 2004. Never a problem with weave. The weave issue was on the Police ST1300 because they jam loaded a lot of heave radios and electronics at the rear that screwed up the balance (CofG).
Need assistance and hope you can help. I was on 3Kmi trip. I got 363mi into the trip and the bike, an '07 ST1300A, just shut down. I had had the ABS light come on once before this ride, but it did not come on again. When the bike shut off the ABS light came on, but it was blinking so fast ( I counted 26 blinks before I stopped counting) that it was not blinking in a way to discern a code. I tried to restart the bike, the 1st time it sounded like it wanted to start. But I turned it off and left the garage. I later went back to restart the bike and this 2nd time it didn't give off any sound at all, not even a click-click. I turned the bike off and went back inside. I have the battery on a charger and will go back out to see what happens. (The ABS light does come on, but it is not blinking at all. Instead, it is a steady on, so no code is showing.)
All you can do in these situations is start with the easiest solution and work your way through. First, lets clear up that the trouble codes will come from the FI light, not from your ABS light. You can get codes about the ABS system from the ABS light, but you have to remove the number 1 and number 3 control motor fuses, then turn the bike on with the fuses out to diag the ABS. BUT that is NOT what you are after and the flashing you saw was probably electrical related. There are 33 possible codes from the FI light (1 flash to 33). You did not mention any so if the light is not flashing and bike not starting this means; open circuit at the ECM power input (unplugged or broken harness, bad ECM), faulty bank angle sensor, if this sensor comes lose from its mounts or fails outright, the bike will turn over and no start, faulty engine stop relay, one of my favorites is the engine stop switch on the right handlebar. These switches have multiple contacts on the power out lead and can get full of dirt causing an intermittent condition where the bike turns over but there is no ignition and/or fuel pump. The same is true of the ignition key barrel. If you bike is European, you said miles so could be UK or USA, you also need to contend with the security system where the ignition barrel cannot detect the RFID chip in the key and it drops out the ignition, the bike will turn over but no spark/fuel. Blown PGM-FI Fuse which is a 30amp fuse or a blown sub-fuse 10amp (starter/ignition), but these are unlikely to be intermittent. Is the fuel pump priming? Take your seat off and check that the fuel pump is running when you turn on the ignition and engine stop switch. If not this could be one of the problems above or simply a bad fuel pump since they can fail, come back and then fail completely as you described. Secondly, I suggests looking at the spark plugs and checking the bike for proper spark while the plugs are out since this will confirm the problem is electrical or fuel. On the topic of ignition, the areas I would check is the low voltage coil wires, coils themselves and the wire that leads to the pulse generator. Sometimes these wires get frayed or baked to the point they crumble and break. You said the bike is turning over but I have also seen weird problems with the kickstand switch and the clutch safety switch. If bad these switches should not allow your bike to turn over but I though I would mention them. Seriously though, one of the most common issues is the engine stop switch and ignition barrel for reason already mentioned. th-cam.com/video/W0MTZbtMgOw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_3Yh3WYP7unTNF9G&t=571 Because you did not indicate any performance issues while the bike is running, I would focus on the electrical, something that is intermittently grounding, shutting off, not grounding properly like a connector harness or key ignition component like the switches and relays. The other area that creeps up on these older bikes is a corroded or loose battery ground/earth cable. Finally, the battery voltage can cause all sorts of intermittent issues if the bike is not charging properly or the battery is discharging while sitting at a traffic light. If the battery is strong, fine check your voltage while the bike is running at the battery terminals. Should be a 13V plus and no higher than 14.7V. Send me an email rodrideswrenches@gmail.com and I can send you an 03/04 factory service manual if you need. Good Luck!
They're a damn fine machine in the right hands. That's where the issues start, in the wrong hands. Just brought my second ST 1300 but this one has 100k on the clock. Apart from obvious things to attend , I've ordered new coolant lines for some future maintenance and sorting out the forks with rechromed tubes.
I have a 2005 st1300. Speedometer stopped working along with the odometer displays. California shop wants 550 to replace😱 got a quick video how to do myself?
@@gregbernard5858 On these bikes it's just your ABS sensor or if the bike does not have ABS it will look like an ABS sensor on the rear wheel. No real way to check without a scan tool but it is very easy to replace. Here is a replacement for $100 ebay.us/W3EfsZ
PLEASE..PLEASE..PLEASE bring this model back into production! I still own and put the first km on a 2004. You would have to fight me off the front of the line if they started making them again.
I’m a bit envious in your arm length as the bars are too far away for me. I opted for the less expensive Heli-bars adaptor plate. I’m still thinking about going to the Horizon ST set up. It isn’t exactly attractive, but the set on my Concours14 makes the bars perfect for me. I’m glad you are able to make it yours.
I think it's pretty clear which motorcycle shop you're referring to (recently closed, in Coquitlam) I agree that their auction dreggs bikes were quite overpriced. I did purchase some decent riding gear, over the years. They were also a good go-to source for soft & hard luggage. The garage component, though, never seemed to operate too smoothly. But, the problems of supply chain issues, brought on by the pandemic, was the deciding factor for the owner to close up shop. I've always performed any basic maintenance on my bikes, but there's a number of other shops, closer to home (central Van.) that get the more involved jobs done much quicker, and correctly.
Wow thanks for the kind words. I typically only stumble after an evening of libation... Hope you'll stick around and watch some of the other videos after you recover your balance! Seriously, thanks again and welcome to the channel!
Brilliant bike. Mine is nearly 20 years old, never misses a beat, rides like new, total quality. Rolls Royce of motorcycles. If you get the chance to buy one, do it in a heartbeat.
Help please ST owners. I just bought a 2005 ST1300 45,000 miles seems to have had a good previous owner. I’ve read other people get 38-45mpg but I only get 34mpg. I don’t ride it that hard and I weigh 250 if that makes the difference from others experience. I changed all the fluids and spark plugs hoping that would help things but no change. Tires are in good shape Michelins. Anyone have any thoughts I’d appreciate it. I mostly drive in town. When on the highway I run 70-85 usually. I hope some of you have some ideas. Oh the air filter is K&N.
So, what did you look at when you went to purchase the bike. YOu had paperwork to look thru? YOu could have seen the rets nest wiring job too. Granted, you did not get the entire picture from the seller, but there were a few tell tale signs.
The "wobble problem" is all BullSH*T! There are no differences in the frame, suspension, steering yokes, springs, bearings in any of the ST1300 models. Go to any honda dealer webpage and compare part numbers of anything related to handling and stability between model years, I have, they are all the same part number so what exactly got fixed? All this is simply a fabrication because the ST1300P (Police) bike did not cut the mustard as it were, and was discontinued due to the heavy loads the bike was expected to carry, (police radio, second lead acid battery, police gear) all at 100MPH plus (I would like to see a Police Electra Glide do 100MPH, I've talked MC Cops, they tell me they can't). If you load the ST1300 heavy to the rear, like in a tour pack, the front end floats and can easily lift. Accelerating hard with a passenger can make the bike easily wheelie! This is why some bikes develop a wobble at high speed, along with poor tire maintenance, bad suspension setup and motorcycle maintenance. Ryan did a great job explaining what causes a tank slapper in this video th-cam.com/video/IzXE32thS1g/w-d-xo.html I suggest you check it out. Sorry for the rant but I hate how this ignorance has spread in Honda ST forums by people that have never owned one, primarily those still trying to drive the value up of their ST1100's. - Buy the newest and nicest ST1300 you can, but know from 2003 to 2016, they are all the same...
I hope it all works out for you. I shake my head everytime my brother-in-law says "The owner says it doesn't need anything for a safety"...and he says that a lot.
I've done this myself a few times... then have to spend more money to up grade the bike to where it should have been had I spent more money initially🙄🙄... bikes.... don't you just love them.... and subbed from Tipperary Eire 👍👍
Just purchased a st1300 2007 , test rode today & noticed a clunking from Gearbox, is this normal ? Seen a lot on youtube about slave cylinders leaking, lack of fluid change bleeding. How does yours ride?
Where is the clunk? Going into 1st from a dead stop? Start the bike on a level surface, put into gear, very slowly let the clutch out. If the bike does not want to pull away after the first 1/3 of the clutch lever travel, you need a clutch. Put the bike on the center stand. Start the bike and with the side-stand up, gently put it into gear. Does the rear wheel spin up hard with the clutch still pulled in? Have a friend hold the clutch in while you carefully place your hand on the exposed tread part of the tire, do it slowly and gently since you don't want a farming accident! Can you easily stop the wheel from spinning? In not, you have a fluid, fluid line or slave cylinder problem. Start by replacing the fluid and cleaning the reservoir and the try it again. You will find a resource of videos on this subject on my channel. BTW I flush brake/clutch fluid on every bike I buy unless it is obvious it was just done. - Good Luck!
Really depends on your market. Anything under $5000CND/$4000USD I would consider well done if mileage is correct and condition matches. Be a bit wary of low miles for year, you'll need tires, all fluids flushed the brake calipers could be sticky and be sure to try the clutch. I have a video on my channel that runs through what to look for. Good Luck!
Hello and thank you for a great series of ST videos! I just bought what I thought was a screaming deal on a 2006 ST 1300. It was advertised with less than 2000 miles and a great price. I got it home and came to the conclusion that this bike had way more than 2K of miles in it yet the odometer said less than 2000. Is it possible to turn back the digital odometer some way? The bike is in great shape looks great and well maintained but the pegs, and tour packs tell me it's got way more than 2000 miles. Your thought? Thank you for your time.
Most Honda dashes can be replaced. There are companies out there that can hack into the memory and set the odometer to whatever you like. Some dashes from police bike conversions have shown up on places like ebay. 2000 miles on an 06 is pretty suspicious. Sometimes guys will buy a touring bike and ride for one or two big trips then never ride it again, not sure if this is better or worse for a bike. The Honda I purchased in the video has 23,000miles which for an 04 is crazy low but the bike sat for a very long time, years without getting ridden because the previous owner had back surgery and he held on to the dream of getting back out on the road trips, around the block is the best he could manage after the surgery. New video is out tomorrow, I analyze an oil sample from the ST1300 and compare what's in it to my 200,000km BMW. Thanks for liking & subscribing! Don't forget to share with other riders and friends & forums!
@@RodRidesWrenches My '04 shows about 24,000km's on the odo. However,, when you pass 200k miles or km's,,, depending on your primary measure is in mph or kph,,, the odo zero's itself. I watched mine do this,,, and took photo's of the odo at 199,999km and zero, just a km later,,, for postarity. The '06 with 2000 miles on the clock,, may well have 202,000 miles on it.
Hello, do you know why the bike doesn't go over 120km/h or 74-75 mp/h? maybe some electric issue's like for example a bad stator?, I know these ones suffer a lil bit when not treated well or being cared for. Cheers.
Hello Alfredo, that could be a lot of things I would but not think stator. Check the air filter and then the fuel pump and fuel injectors, not enough air or fuel and the bike won't go. While the air box is off you can check the motion of the throttle bodies. I suspect something is clogged or broken that is preventing them from opening. A worn throttle body can flip partially closed on the pin. Then it is on to the throttle position sensors. Honda manual says to check the engine control module for wiring and/or a failure, fuel injection system (if there is a power commander on the bike get rid of it), valve adjustment and broken or faulty valve springs and the valve timing. Good Luck!
They definitely go well over 120 kms/hr. Ask the nice police lady on the Coquihalla Highway in British Columbia who had to radio to another cop ahead to stop me for a nice chat because she couldn't catch up in her Explorer Interceptor. That day I felt the horseshoe firmly inserted as it turned out the nice police lady was a rider and had an ST1300. We chatted bikes and gear and kids and she realized I was a mature rider with decades of experience and let me off with advice to slow down a bit, especially up above the Coldwater, better know, as I told her, as Radar Flats. She nodded and we parted ways.
Hi there, I like your ST1300 videos! But I have to disagree on the handle bar. Sure the one you took off is ugly. But if you are 6'5" you would think about it differently. I love this bike, but the stock bar is not adjustable and that is a major flaw in the design by Honda. It is great that the seat is height adjustable, but when you take it up you move your torso up and away and there is no way to adjust the handle bar with it. Why in the world would you want the original bars? If they only had a standard bar setup it would be possible to by regular risers and a handle bar that fits exactly.... I would be happy to take the ones you just removed for a fair price...
Those bars are fugly on this bike. The Hella bar riser is much more appropriate. Keeps the stock bar, raises the bars 1.25”, 2.5” wider and back two (or something to that effect). At a slightly tilted in angle. So comfortable you can ride all day. The seat is ideal if you put the rear setting one lower than the front, it has the affect of rolling your butt into the wider part of the seat. Once again all day no complaints. I really like the Pan.
A rock solid bargain used bike to tour with on the cheap but not to fall in love with and keep. More touring than sport for your bucket list of long trips with 800km days. They are comfortable, powerful, smooth, surprisingly nimble and an absolute bargain. A bit dull and dated looking though. Lots of polygons stuck together make them look better from a distance but jumbled from up close. So many V-shapes everywhere. Also some questionable design choices (exposed engine but with cheap silver plastic engine covers, poorly lit display, lots of contrasting black plastic bits everywhere, storage bins in the fairing get too hot for anything sensitive) The engine sound is like a Civic, all whirring gears. The V4 grunts a bit when you open the throttle but acts like a turbine with a flat torque curve. With many cheap ST1300's around why buy one with so many things to replace, poorly sorted and with dubious origin? They are the definition of bulletproof so the km's are not important (same with FJR1300's). You will probably get bored or switch to something smaller well before its useful life comes to an end (over 250k kms.) 2003 -2012 are 1 generation so no advantages there, they have no differing features or upgrades so go for the farkles. I paid $3600 CAD in 2020 for a 2003 ST1300ABS with 90k km's, well cared for with aftermarket goodies. (electronic cruise, heated Corbin seat , Oxford heated grips, V-Stream windscreen, 2" Heli bars, rear trunk) Everything works and it rides fine because the last guy actually rode it. Stay away from low mileage garage queens. As for the complete strip down, ugh, a waste of time in my opinion on a Honda that has had reasonable care. But I get it, some people like wrenching more than riding. I can't be bothered and don't own fancy lifts and tools worth more than the bike. If the brake/clutch fluid is clear you know the last guy is a fanatic. I simply jumped on mine and rode a total of 10k km that summer on 3 trips throughout Western Canada with only an oil change. This year I got a rear tire and brake pads and did another 5k km. (because forest fires) Next season I will need a tire, brake pads and fork seals for the front. I have a few trips in Montana and California to complete before I sell it to the next tourer. I had a 2006 VFR800 previously but made the mistake of wasting time on a lot of unnecessary pampering maintenance (I'll keep it forever!) for a bike I sold after 2 seasons. Buy cheap sell cheaper, at most you lose $1000? Not worth pumping a lot of time/money into.
Worn out tyres and fork seals immediately say something........ if the basics aren't looked after you just know to expect more..... and those handlebars...... 😖🤣
Thanks!
Thanks for the view & Super!
I think (personally) that the K&N Filter was a negative, not a plus. No one has convinced me they are worth anything over a regular filter. Some claim the oil mist off of the filter can mess with the MAF sensor
Can you wash and reuse a stock air filter?
@@joshmoore6165 No. but I can buy a new one without buying K&N’s expensive Recharger Kit.
They're supposed to Flow more air for more power but I rode mine with the stock filter,a KN and no filter at all and it made no difference either way.what can flow air better than no filter?so as far as HP gains with KN it's a crock of 🐂. maybe it's good for something else but not HP.
@@jackwoods535 20-25%? You must be kidding.
As a 2005 and 2012 s t owner I'll tag along with you. But ditch that K & N filter. Stick with OEM for filters AND fluids. Right down to the Honda antifreeze.
As a previous owner, You're aware of the tire cupping and also of the short tire life. Is all part of life in the big league.
Run hi end dual compound tires at 40- 42 psi rr. 38-40 front. Also, that rear shock is shot, so crank up the preload to max. It prolly feels ok, til you ride a new one.
Lastly. 04's were hot. remove some inner fairing panels for better airflow. Ck for a bit of air in clutch line, then sync the TB's.
may consider some risers with those stock bars. my 05 is more relaxed with them.
be safe.
Stumbled across your channel during my “research” on ST1300s and am very impressed! Fantastic content and quality. Kudos to a fellow BCer-I’m in White Rock. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the feedback!
Stumbled across your channel. Your video is a gem, and a goldmine for used bike buyers. Thanks so much!!!
I’ve had two. ST1300s, a very used 2003 and a two year old 2009 that had 9 miles on it. I put 1200 on the 2003 that had 41k when I bought it and 90k on the 2009. I took each in every two or three years for complete fluid changes and engine check(compression, valves, timing system. Never changed the plugs or wires. Other than that, even with towing a camper for a good bit of those miles the bikes never needed any valve adjustments or timing chains. The only problem I had was Wheel bearings on the 2003, I think the previous owner too the bike to a car wash and got water in those seals. Stellar motorcycles. Huge bags, comfy seat, bar risers, great wind and rain protection. Suggest the fairing protection kit as a way to quiet wind noise.
I just purchased a low mileage (for this bike) ST130. I have ridden them but never owned one and this is my chance. The previous owner installed a bunch of accessory lighting and it has amateur wiring running all over the bike. I have been having fun finding all the LED light strips and accent light that have been glued to various bits of the bike. The PO had stopped riding it over 4 years ago but it was started and ridden to a new address withing the last 15 months. It my cost me a new fuel pump but it will be worth it given the price I paid. Oh. . . the biggest issue with the bad wiring is the use of Scotchlok connectors. I determined that pulling them out would be worse than leaving them in place so I isolated them and left their removal to a winter project.
I’ve have an issue with my 2004 1300 Pan. When I wash it, it doesn’t like getting wet and will miss fire. I’m on a trip to Ireland and it got rained on last night now won’t start. I’ve checked spark, plugs were wet, pump is priming and F1 light goes out but still won’t start. Anyone help?
So much to check here. Stupid simple stuff is where I would start since the coils are well protected under the fairing and even wet would spark. I suspect it is the ignition pulse generator P/U sensor which is on the front of the engine, it is cracked and getting it wet is shorting it out. Obviously water is getting somewhere it shouldn't. The low voltage lines leading to the coils from the PGM/IGN Unit, and potentially a multitude of harness connectors could also be the issue but if you haven't been in those areas and pulled anything apart they should not be an issue. Finally, check the fuse box under the side panel. If the cover is cracked and water is getting in it could be the source of our lack of spark. Sorry to hear of your trouble & good luck!
Just had a look at the shop manual. Honda also suggests for your condition it maybe a faulty engine kill switch on the right handlebar. Take it apart and clean it with WD40.
Hey Rod, I’m selling my 2012 Honda ST 1300 ABS with 4700 miles on it. Garage kept new condition in black.. With extras. $9,500.. I’m 40 minutes from NYC
Ive fot 2 my P model has mine is a 2014 first registered with the Queenslabd Police service in 2016 stopped service by 2017 I bought her in 2018 she's not got over 400.000km and still runs like a new bike she's serviced every 6k and over those km I've ibly spnd money on an Altinator 2 timing tensioners not required plus a water pump also not required that was just as she got to 400.000km it runs well enough yes its heavy but irs comfortable.. so I bought an 09 model with 50.000km
Your my kind of man! I havnt bought a used bike yet that someone hasnt jacked with in some way, shape or form. I just went through a 2002 concours 1k i purchased this past june & man was it a mess, finally took it on its maiden voyage last evening. Now im looking at a 2006 ST1300 that looks good in the ad & researching them is what brought me to your video.
Thanks for liking and subscribing! Let me know if you need any help.
I sure will 👍
Thanks for these videos. I just grabbed an ST1300 and looking forward to doing the same upgrades you did on yours. Cheers from the East Coast 🇨🇦
Hello from the West Eric! Thanks for the view and feedback & congratulations on your ST1300 project!
@@RodRidesWrenches I also grabbed a GW1500SE, and I will be watching your GW videos with great interest 😃. Hope to see my Vancouver family next year
Those Helibars might be ugly but they make the pan hugely more comfortable on long rides. They're quite expensive so you'll get good money for them on eBay or whatever.
I bought a new one in 05 and the only negative was engine heat.
I had a new 2003 ST1300 and I got to say it was great! never missed a beat in 125000 miles by the time I sold it in 2013.. only bought a new Yam FJR1300 because I could not get another new Pan .
How does the fjr compare? I’m thinking of both, the pan weave scares me, ever had the issue?
@@keithquinn5624 I have a 2004. Never a problem with weave. The weave issue was on the Police ST1300 because they jam loaded a lot of heave radios and electronics at the rear that screwed up the balance (CofG).
Just bought one of these from a main dealer 2004 so hopefully it's ok
Can't see you having any issues, a fantastic machine
Need assistance and hope you can help. I was on 3Kmi trip. I got 363mi into the trip and the bike, an '07 ST1300A, just shut down. I had had the ABS light come on once before this ride, but it did not come on again. When the bike shut off the ABS light came on, but it was blinking so fast ( I counted 26 blinks before I stopped counting) that it was not blinking in a way to discern a code. I tried to restart the bike, the 1st time it sounded like it wanted to start. But I turned it off and left the garage. I later went back to restart the bike and this 2nd time it didn't give off any sound at all, not even a click-click. I turned the bike off and went back inside. I have the battery on a charger and will go back out to see what happens. (The ABS light does come on, but it is not blinking at all. Instead, it is a steady on, so no code is showing.)
All you can do in these situations is start with the easiest solution and work your way through. First, lets clear up that the trouble codes will come from the FI light, not from your ABS light. You can get codes about the ABS system from the ABS light, but you have to remove the number 1 and number 3 control motor fuses, then turn the bike on with the fuses out to diag the ABS. BUT that is NOT what you are after and the flashing you saw was probably electrical related. There are 33 possible codes from the FI light (1 flash to 33). You did not mention any so if the light is not flashing and bike not starting this means; open circuit at the ECM power input (unplugged or broken harness, bad ECM), faulty bank angle sensor, if this sensor comes lose from its mounts or fails outright, the bike will turn over and no start, faulty engine stop relay, one of my favorites is the engine stop switch on the right handlebar. These switches have multiple contacts on the power out lead and can get full of dirt causing an intermittent condition where the bike turns over but there is no ignition and/or fuel pump. The same is true of the ignition key barrel. If you bike is European, you said miles so could be UK or USA, you also need to contend with the security system where the ignition barrel cannot detect the RFID chip in the key and it drops out the ignition, the bike will turn over but no spark/fuel. Blown PGM-FI Fuse which is a 30amp fuse or a blown sub-fuse 10amp (starter/ignition), but these are unlikely to be intermittent. Is the fuel pump priming? Take your seat off and check that the fuel pump is running when you turn on the ignition and engine stop switch. If not this could be one of the problems above or simply a bad fuel pump since they can fail, come back and then fail completely as you described. Secondly, I suggests looking at the spark plugs and checking the bike for proper spark while the plugs are out since this will confirm the problem is electrical or fuel. On the topic of ignition, the areas I would check is the low voltage coil wires, coils themselves and the wire that leads to the pulse generator. Sometimes these wires get frayed or baked to the point they crumble and break. You said the bike is turning over but I have also seen weird problems with the kickstand switch and the clutch safety switch. If bad these switches should not allow your bike to turn over but I though I would mention them. Seriously though, one of the most common issues is the engine stop switch and ignition barrel for reason already mentioned. th-cam.com/video/W0MTZbtMgOw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_3Yh3WYP7unTNF9G&t=571 Because you did not indicate any performance issues while the bike is running, I would focus on the electrical, something that is intermittently grounding, shutting off, not grounding properly like a connector harness or key ignition component like the switches and relays. The other area that creeps up on these older bikes is a corroded or loose battery ground/earth cable. Finally, the battery voltage can cause all sorts of intermittent issues if the bike is not charging properly or the battery is discharging while sitting at a traffic light. If the battery is strong, fine check your voltage while the bike is running at the battery terminals. Should be a 13V plus and no higher than 14.7V. Send me an email rodrideswrenches@gmail.com and I can send you an 03/04 factory service manual if you need. Good Luck!
They're a damn fine machine in the right hands. That's where the issues start, in the wrong hands. Just brought my second ST 1300 but this one has 100k on the clock. Apart from obvious things to attend , I've ordered new coolant lines for some future maintenance and sorting out the forks with rechromed tubes.
Thanks for the feedback & the view! Hope you will check out the rest of the series on this bike...
I have a 2005 st1300. Speedometer stopped working along with the odometer displays.
California shop wants 550 to replace😱 got a quick video how to do myself?
I don't have a video but all you have to do is remove the nose cowl and side fairings. The gauges are then easily removed. Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches I heard it’s the speedometer sensor
@@gregbernard5858 On these bikes it's just your ABS sensor or if the bike does not have ABS it will look like an ABS sensor on the rear wheel. No real way to check without a scan tool but it is very easy to replace. Here is a replacement for $100 ebay.us/W3EfsZ
PLEASE..PLEASE..PLEASE bring this model back into production! I still own and put the first km on a 2004. You would have to fight me off the front of the line if they started making them again.
I don't know what's wrong with me, but I realy like CTX1300, CTX700 and NM4/Vultus.
I sure wish you would have kept this bike! These are the best videos on TH-cam about the ST
Unfortunately there just isn't enough that ever goes wrong with the ST!300!
@@RodRidesWrenches I`ll pay you 1 million dollars to go through my ST the same way.
@@joshmoore6165 Done!
I’m a bit envious in your arm length as the bars are too far away for me. I opted for the less expensive Heli-bars adaptor plate. I’m still thinking about going to the Horizon ST set up. It isn’t exactly attractive, but the set on my Concours14 makes the bars perfect for me. I’m glad you are able to make it yours.
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@@RodRidesWrenches Do you still have the "ape hangers" or have you sold them or thrown them away? I think that I could use them.
@@alanhassall email me rodrideswrenches@gmail.com yes I still have them
Stumbled on your channel and really enjoying your videos 👍
Thanks Ken!🏍
I think it's pretty clear which motorcycle shop you're referring to (recently closed, in Coquitlam) I agree that their auction dreggs bikes were quite overpriced. I did purchase some decent riding gear, over the years. They were also a good go-to source for soft & hard luggage. The garage component, though, never seemed to operate too smoothly. But, the problems of supply chain issues, brought on by the pandemic, was the deciding factor for the owner to close up shop.
I've always performed any basic maintenance on my bikes, but there's a number of other shops, closer to home (central Van.) that get the more involved jobs done much quicker, and correctly.
Thanks for the feedback, liking & subscribing!
Holy cow! Someone said, "stumbled across your channel" which describes me.....great content !!!!
Wow thanks for the kind words. I typically only stumble after an evening of libation... Hope you'll stick around and watch some of the other videos after you recover your balance! Seriously, thanks again and welcome to the channel!
Brilliant bike. Mine is nearly 20 years old, never misses a beat, rides like new, total quality. Rolls Royce of motorcycles. If you get the chance to buy one, do it in a heartbeat.
Great vid! Love the style of talking us through and edit. Subbed! 👍
Thanks for liking and subscribing!
Help please ST owners. I just bought a 2005 ST1300 45,000 miles seems to have had a good previous owner. I’ve read other people get 38-45mpg but I only get 34mpg. I don’t ride it that hard and I weigh 250 if that makes the difference from others experience. I changed all the fluids and spark plugs hoping that would help things but no change. Tires are in good shape Michelins. Anyone have any thoughts I’d appreciate it. I mostly drive in town. When on the highway I run 70-85 usually. I hope some of you have some ideas. Oh the air filter is K&N.
Your mileage sounds pretty good to me... Fuel consumption is directly related to your right hand!
@@RodRidesWrenches
Thank you for your reply, I thought something was off because I’ve read others had reported better mpg results.
Thanks for sharing these issues...helpful heads up
Great Video I have had 2 x ST1100's that I loved. Any one know if Bammer Rider is still posting, I used to read his Blogs a few years ago.
So, what did you look at when you went to purchase the bike. YOu had paperwork to look thru? YOu could have seen the rets nest wiring job too.
Granted, you did not get the entire picture from the seller, but there were a few tell tale signs.
Just picked up one of these. Handy video, well done.
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Do you recommend me to buy 2003 model? Because of wobble problem..being said after 2003 model honda fixed this problem. Is that right?
The "wobble problem" is all BullSH*T! There are no differences in the frame, suspension, steering yokes, springs, bearings in any of the ST1300 models. Go to any honda dealer webpage and compare part numbers of anything related to handling and stability between model years, I have, they are all the same part number so what exactly got fixed? All this is simply a fabrication because the ST1300P (Police) bike did not cut the mustard as it were, and was discontinued due to the heavy loads the bike was expected to carry, (police radio, second lead acid battery, police gear) all at 100MPH plus (I would like to see a Police Electra Glide do 100MPH, I've talked MC Cops, they tell me they can't). If you load the ST1300 heavy to the rear, like in a tour pack, the front end floats and can easily lift. Accelerating hard with a passenger can make the bike easily wheelie! This is why some bikes develop a wobble at high speed, along with poor tire maintenance, bad suspension setup and motorcycle maintenance. Ryan did a great job explaining what causes a tank slapper in this video th-cam.com/video/IzXE32thS1g/w-d-xo.html I suggest you check it out. Sorry for the rant but I hate how this ignorance has spread in Honda ST forums by people that have never owned one, primarily those still trying to drive the value up of their ST1100's. - Buy the newest and nicest ST1300 you can, but know from 2003 to 2016, they are all the same...
@@RodRidesWrenches you are great man. Thanks alot for your reply.
I hope it all works out for you. I shake my head everytime my brother-in-law says "The owner says it doesn't need anything for a safety"...and he says that a lot.
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I've done this myself a few times... then have to spend more money to up grade the bike to where it should have been had I spent more money initially🙄🙄... bikes.... don't you just love them.... and subbed from Tipperary Eire 👍👍
I hate buying an old bike and finding someone has cut into the vehicle harness.
The reasons for culling the Pan were it didn't comply with Euro 5 emmision regs, and sales were dropping as more riders gravitated to adventure bikes😢
Just purchased a st1300 2007 , test rode today & noticed a clunking from Gearbox, is this normal ? Seen a lot on youtube about slave cylinders leaking, lack of fluid change bleeding. How does yours ride?
Where is the clunk? Going into 1st from a dead stop? Start the bike on a level surface, put into gear, very slowly let the clutch out. If the bike does not want to pull away after the first 1/3 of the clutch lever travel, you need a clutch. Put the bike on the center stand. Start the bike and with the side-stand up, gently put it into gear. Does the rear wheel spin up hard with the clutch still pulled in? Have a friend hold the clutch in while you carefully place your hand on the exposed tread part of the tire, do it slowly and gently since you don't want a farming accident! Can you easily stop the wheel from spinning? In not, you have a fluid, fluid line or slave cylinder problem. Start by replacing the fluid and cleaning the reservoir and the try it again. You will find a resource of videos on this subject on my channel. BTW I flush brake/clutch fluid on every bike I buy unless it is obvious it was just done. - Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches Thanks for great advice will have a look but going to get clutch fluid change /bleed through & see if any better thankyou.
@@straightup1234 Thanks for the feedback & view. I have anew video out today, I hope you will check it out.
@@RodRidesWrenches yes I will 👍👍
I just bought another ST 1100 Friday, and found the original Honda air cleaner @ 45 K miles. some people are just lazy.
Curious on comments. Im looking at 2004 st1300 with 17000 miles. What is a good price?
Really depends on your market. Anything under $5000CND/$4000USD I would consider well done if mileage is correct and condition matches. Be a bit wary of low miles for year, you'll need tires, all fluids flushed the brake calipers could be sticky and be sure to try the clutch. I have a video on my channel that runs through what to look for. Good Luck!
Good info thanks
Thanks for the view, lots of other ST1300 plus more bikes on the channel, I hope you will check them out!
Hello and thank you for a great series of ST videos! I just bought what I thought was a screaming deal on a 2006 ST 1300. It was advertised with less than 2000 miles and a great price. I got it home and came to the conclusion that this bike had way more than 2K of miles in it yet the odometer said less than 2000. Is it possible to turn back the digital odometer some way? The bike is in great shape looks great and well maintained but the pegs, and tour packs tell me it's got way more than 2000 miles. Your thought? Thank you for your time.
Most Honda dashes can be replaced. There are companies out there that can hack into the memory and set the odometer to whatever you like. Some dashes from police bike conversions have shown up on places like ebay. 2000 miles on an 06 is pretty suspicious. Sometimes guys will buy a touring bike and ride for one or two big trips then never ride it again, not sure if this is better or worse for a bike. The Honda I purchased in the video has 23,000miles which for an 04 is crazy low but the bike sat for a very long time, years without getting ridden because the previous owner had back surgery and he held on to the dream of getting back out on the road trips, around the block is the best he could manage after the surgery. New video is out tomorrow, I analyze an oil sample from the ST1300 and compare what's in it to my 200,000km BMW. Thanks for liking & subscribing! Don't forget to share with other riders and friends & forums!
@@RodRidesWrenches My '04 shows about 24,000km's on the odo. However,, when you pass 200k miles or km's,,, depending on your primary measure is in mph or kph,,, the odo zero's itself. I watched mine do this,,, and took photo's of the odo at 199,999km and zero, just a km later,,, for postarity. The '06 with 2000 miles on the clock,, may well have 202,000 miles on it.
Hello, do you know why the bike doesn't go over 120km/h or 74-75 mp/h? maybe some electric issue's like for example a bad stator?, I know these ones suffer a lil bit when not treated well or being cared for.
Cheers.
Hello Alfredo, that could be a lot of things I would but not think stator. Check the air filter and then the fuel pump and fuel injectors, not enough air or fuel and the bike won't go. While the air box is off you can check the motion of the throttle bodies. I suspect something is clogged or broken that is preventing them from opening. A worn throttle body can flip partially closed on the pin. Then it is on to the throttle position sensors. Honda manual says to check the engine control module for wiring and/or a failure, fuel injection system (if there is a power commander on the bike get rid of it), valve adjustment and broken or faulty valve springs and the valve timing. Good Luck!
They definitely go well over 120 kms/hr. Ask the nice police lady on the Coquihalla Highway in British Columbia who had to radio to another cop ahead to stop me for a nice chat because she couldn't catch up in her Explorer Interceptor.
That day I felt the horseshoe firmly inserted as it turned out the nice police lady was a rider and had an ST1300. We chatted bikes and gear and kids and she realized I was a mature rider with decades of experience and let me off with advice to slow down a bit, especially up above the Coldwater, better know, as I told her, as Radar Flats. She nodded and we parted ways.
So what was wrong with the bike
Hi there, I like your ST1300 videos! But I have to disagree on the handle bar. Sure the one you took off is ugly. But if you are 6'5" you would think about it differently. I love this bike, but the stock bar is not adjustable and that is a major flaw in the design by Honda. It is great that the seat is height adjustable, but when you take it up you move your torso up and away and there is no way to adjust the handle bar with it. Why in the world would you want the original bars? If they only had a standard bar setup it would be possible to by regular risers and a handle bar that fits exactly.... I would be happy to take the ones you just removed for a fair price...
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@@RodRidesWrenches do you have any idea how heavy the engine is??
Those bars are fugly on this bike. The Hella bar riser is much more appropriate. Keeps the stock bar, raises the bars 1.25”, 2.5” wider and back two (or something to that effect). At a slightly tilted in angle. So comfortable you can ride all day.
The seat is ideal if you put the rear setting one lower than the front, it has the affect of rolling your butt into the wider part of the seat. Once again all day no complaints. I really like the Pan.
Thank you. Your step by step guide was so methodical that my Pan now has her clothes off.
Better take some pictures! Thanks for the feedback & the view!
A rock solid bargain used bike to tour with on the cheap but not to fall in love with and keep. More touring than sport for your bucket list of long trips with 800km days. They are comfortable, powerful, smooth, surprisingly nimble and an absolute bargain. A bit dull and dated looking though. Lots of polygons stuck together make them look better from a distance but jumbled from up close. So many V-shapes everywhere. Also some questionable design choices (exposed engine but with cheap silver plastic engine covers, poorly lit display, lots of contrasting black plastic bits everywhere, storage bins in the fairing get too hot for anything sensitive) The engine sound is like a Civic, all whirring gears. The V4 grunts a bit when you open the throttle but acts like a turbine with a flat torque curve.
With many cheap ST1300's around why buy one with so many things to replace, poorly sorted and with dubious origin? They are the definition of bulletproof so the km's are not important (same with FJR1300's). You will probably get bored or switch to something smaller well before its useful life comes to an end (over 250k kms.) 2003 -2012 are 1 generation so no advantages there, they have no differing features or upgrades so go for the farkles.
I paid $3600 CAD in 2020 for a 2003 ST1300ABS with 90k km's, well cared for with aftermarket goodies. (electronic cruise, heated Corbin seat , Oxford heated grips, V-Stream windscreen, 2" Heli bars, rear trunk) Everything works and it rides fine because the last guy actually rode it. Stay away from low mileage garage queens. As for the complete strip down, ugh, a waste of time in my opinion on a Honda that has had reasonable care. But I get it, some people like wrenching more than riding. I can't be bothered and don't own fancy lifts and tools worth more than the bike. If the brake/clutch fluid is clear you know the last guy is a fanatic. I simply jumped on mine and rode a total of 10k km that summer on 3 trips throughout Western Canada with only an oil change. This year I got a rear tire and brake pads and did another 5k km. (because forest fires) Next season I will need a tire, brake pads and fork seals for the front.
I have a few trips in Montana and California to complete before I sell it to the next tourer. I had a 2006 VFR800 previously but made the mistake of wasting time on a lot of unnecessary pampering maintenance (I'll keep it forever!) for a bike I sold after 2 seasons. Buy cheap sell cheaper, at most you lose $1000? Not worth pumping a lot of time/money into.
So how much did you pay for this? =)
So you buy a cheap, old bike... and complain that it isn't in perfect factory condition...
Worn out tyres and fork seals immediately say something........ if the basics aren't looked after you just know to expect more..... and those handlebars...... 😖🤣
I like my CTX1300 and still have a ST1100.
Thanks for Commenting, Ride Safe!
I am selling a complete st1300 very, very cheap, possibly at 900 cash
NM4 Vultus
the GTX1300 died in anonymity for good reasons ..
Bars look awful.