I tune a lot of Folk's carbs at different car events, and this one methodology in initial adjustments cleans up almost everybody's issues right from the GET GO as it allows the dynamics of the carb circuits to actually work as they were designed to - no chasing tunes or bandaiding misadjustments with misadjustments elsewhere ending in disappointing performance. If i can do this, anyone can !!!! Also, everyone who wants to perfect the carb tune needs to run one of these wideband "Air Fuel Ratio" gauges!!! AEM Wideband Gauge Kit - amzn.to/2wlxxL4 No Welding Exhaust Bung - amzn.to/2BCi4MO
It may be a lot to ask but because you all ready have a baseline using a ported vacuum source would you be willing to switch to manifold vacuum and retune and drive it for a bit ? It would be interesting to see back to back testing in real daily driving conditions to compare mileage and performance. I know it would basically only pertain to your setup but I think it would make and interesting video if it's not to much trouble. Thanks for taking the time and doing the work on these videos they are very helpful and greatly appreciated.
I have a lag response when the butterflies close after a heavy acceleration, low speeds.... 5.0 H.O. - 600 Holley w/vac secondaries. Any thoughts on what to check? Thanks.
Installed an AME on both our 1986 C10 and my VW engine run test stand no issues with welding in the bung. Work in Marshalltown are your very far from there ??
I was doing way too much guess work with my fast idle screw, curb idle, timing, etc... Getting under the carb to see my slots made a world of difference and really improved throttle feel. Great info!
You seem very bright and knowledgeable but some people don’t understand what you mean by squaring the carburetor you should demonstrate the processes and that would be very helpful to those that really don’t understand but would like to tryout your expertise
I understood him to say squaring the transfer slots to where only a small looking square of the slot is exposed but my question is how do you make that adjustment? And would this be true for a ‘70 Oldsmobile Quadrajet?
Hey brother, I appreciate all your videos. I've been a fan for years and you've taught me personally so much over time. God Bless You and Glad Bless America and God Bless My Fords.
Hey Thanks for all carb tuning videos. I have a 850 holley. When I go to install it I'll most definitely go back and watch the videos. Thanks again and have a good one!
If you hook your vacuum advance to the manifold the engine will idle faster than it will on ported vacuum. To correct this, people close the throttle and this put the transfer slot into a no-flow dead zone and creates a bog off the bottom. That is why some cars run better on ported vacuum. (ANd yes this was used before emission control but it was then abused during admission control years and hence the bad reputation.)
Most people don't really know the difference between ported and non-ported vacuum. I have run carbs and EFI and tuned them both. For those who do not know there is a special vacuum port on your carburetor that you would typically hook your vacuum line to from your vacuum advance distributor, and that is the ported vacuum. The ported vacuum port has zero vacuum at idle aka no vacuum advance at idle. Now if your hook your vacuum advance distributor up to any other vacuum port on your manifold or carb it will have vacuum at idle and you will get 10-15 degrees of advance on top of what you set your initial advance too with your timing light. So 10 degrees with your timing light plus 10 degrees from the vacuum advance will give you 20 degrees of advance at idle. Now why would you want so much timing at idle? Leaner air fuel mixtures at part throttle down the highway and at idle like more timing. There is less fuel in the cylinder and takes longer for the fuel to burn which is why more advance is beneficial at idle and cruise. It will help to lower your exhaust temps, engine temps, ect at idle by using manifold vacuum on your distributor. Most people also think that high idle advance is only for radical cams which is not true. I have run 20-25 degrees of idle advance on carbs/efi with no issues on stock 70s era engines. 200HP boat anchors in other words. As time goes on there is less and less knowledgeable people about how this old stuff works. Keep the videos coming thunderhead289 otherwise working on older vehicles will become a lost art.
i use manifold vacuum if the engine needs over 12* of timing to idel. most 1970s stuff needs 16-25* of timing so manifold vacuum is the way to go. i have seen how a 70 engin with 12* wold get vary hot switch to manifold it dropped the water temp 20 degrees. used less gas to. i like a fast timing curve all in at 3500 rmp 20 centrifical with a base timing of 2-5* for a totel of 22-25* so 87 gas can be used. this gives a total timing at cruse of around 40*.
Luke, I have a question.... I understand about adjusting the throttle primary throttle plates to reveal the "square" of the transfer slots. My question is after the Holley is bolted on the manifold and is ready for idle circuit tuning chain of events so to speak. 1. Turn idle mixture needle screws clockwise until the just bottom out. Then counter clockwise 1.5 turns for each screw. 2. Cap the ported vacuum port for the distributor canister., Connect timing light 3. Start the engine and keep the engine running by opening the throttle by hand to warm up the engine. 4. To set desired idle speed of 750 RPM, rotate the distributor until tach reads 750 RPM. 5. This is where I need help...Using a vacuum gauge connected to full manifold vacuum, adjust idle mixture screws 1/4 turn each until peak manifold vacuum is achieved. NOW... the idle RPM has increased when peak manifold vacuum is achieved. Do I rotate the distributor again to decrease the RPM's back to 750 RPM's or... do I adjust the throttle position screw??? I would think the distributor should be adjusted again to 750 RPM. But I'm not sure BTW this is a 4165 Holley Spreadbore List 6211-1 800CFM on a 427 Chevy
Michael....that is my exact question too. Luke is advocating that he wants to keep the transfer slot square for a range of good reasons, which is about 20 thou ...a square shape, and he is using rotation of the distributor to set rpm so he can maintain that square shape on transfer slot.....so I think to maintain that square shape after adjusting the idle mixture screws for max vacuum, it seems to make sense to me to rotate the distributor once again to adjust rpm back to desired level......but this is never mentioned by Luke. I think your logic is right Michael, otherwise the transfer slot shape at idle would get screwed up by adjusting the idle speed screw to reset the rpms after adjusting idle mixture screws.
One other thing. The advantage of rotating the distributor vs moving the idle speed screw is that you don’t need to readjust the accelerator pump lever arm from your initial setting. Most people forget that if you move the idle speed screw you must readjust the accelerator pump lever arm to get its gap to 15 thou.
Ooh I just thought of another thing. If you advance the base timing too much at idle (by playing with the rotation of the distributor to get desired rpms), will that result in pinging at higher revs caused from total timing (base plus mechanical and vacuum advance) being too much when the engine revs at an “all-in max timing” which may happen around 3000 rpm? I guess some experimentation is required. I just hate pinging because I want to protect the engine from any potential damage
Thanks great info, I appreciate all your videos. I am almost done rebuilding my 65 289. You have helped me degree cam ,set up Valve train now soon carb setup, much appreciated!
Im illiterate on the subject of carbs as a lot of folks are, could you do a vid showing where / what everything runs to when talking about time, vacuum fuel etc. thanks
Man I wish you were closer! I’ve been banging my head against the wall with this Holley 4160 carb. Sputtering at between 1/4 throttle and 3/4 throttle. I’ve replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm, set to .015 at full throttle, set the transfer slots like this, deep cleaned checked for vacuum leaks, tuned and tuned again, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ballast resistor. Think it’s just time for a new carb
Same here but with my Edelbrock. I think I have found my issue to be a too heavy mechanical advance spring. The only way to get 32 total degrees at 2500 is to set my initial timing at 28. I only get more advance if I run it over 5000. As soon as my springs arrive I can test more
What do you do when you square off the idle slot and it idles low or not idle at all? Have a problem where we have a brand new edelbrock carb on a 390 fe and we made sure with the motor at TDC ( compression stroke of course) it was right inline with #1 plug. Go to fire it and she won't idle at all, tried advance it as far as it go then it will kinda idle but at like 550rpm and the timing light shows about 49 degrees advance ( vacuum advance unhook). So not sure what's going on. Also I did notice if I put the timing back where it was ( roughly 14 degrees ) and made sure to back off the idle screw to where it was ( turned it up to get it to idle ) I could hold the secondary open a little and she would idle low but would idle without messing with timing. Any ideas?
Any way to popstion primaru transfer slot correctly wirh out removing the carb. "Vacuum at idle"' does this imply that the ported vacuum connection will show some vacuum? Could one use the the vacuum signal at the ported vacuum connection to set the amount of transfer slot exposure? Say, adjust idle screw untill vacuum apwears at Ported connection then back it off until it just dissapears?
Sorry. But ignition timing should be the absolute FIRST thing to get set up!! If your distributor is worn bushings, bad vacuum can or to wrong port, wrong springs and also, bad or too much resistance in the wires. THEN.. you can/should set up your vacuum gauge and testing equipment AFTER you go through the carb looking for warpage, bad gaskets, power valve(s) base gaskets etc.. Not trying to piss you off. But there are tons of symptoms that are blamed on the carb, when it's the ignition/phasing or even valve timing too. (tooth off, worn cam gear)
Holy shit, can't believe a couple of these commenters. Can't win 'em all I guess. Appreciate your insights here. Always planned on going FI because gadgets, but the more I dig into your series it makes me reconsider.
You should see some of the ignorance that I decided to remove. Followed by the “well on such and such channel, they said this” - I don’t like to make war between channels, but the bad tech presented by large channels out there is appalling
I switch out the ignition module in the distributor of my 350 5.7 i got spark but it would start it back fired. Also no matter how many times i turn the needle and seat i cannot get fuel into the front sight bowl
There is nothing wrong with carburetors. The bad taste that the 70s and 80s carbs left in people's minds were due to the fact that they were set up according to EPA mandates, not by the engineers of the engine.
mine keeps idiling rough whats the base line for Idle screw. i know the fuel mixture for holleys 1.5 turns but not sure about idle and car some times runs on after shut off.
I can, I have a very simple concept there also - really this stuff isn’t as hard as everyone makes it out to be. All the bad info and misinformation out there has made it seem difficult.
Ok watching vid and you didn't mention the pcv is part of the idle circuit. That has to be free clear and sucking. The pcv circuit is mainly what keeps the engine idling
Yes but long duration cams with valve overlap (increasingly used on the street) benefit from a rich idle mixture and high throttle setting, which has given the use a ported advance relevance beyond the emissions debate@@mrblanche
Very information dense. Love it. I now know how much I need to know. Off to do more fun research before touching the carb on my only ride. Thanks a lot!
I just bought a edelbrock 2x4 intake and carburetors. I have a 57 chevy 283 small block. In 55 56 and 57 they run two carter afb carburetors. How do I tune thus set up to make it work on my car?
Check this out , I have flipped over a 750 holley and a demon to check were the transfer slot. Comes into perfect square is right around 1 full turn from just making contact with the throttle lever , so if your not taking carb off that's a very good starting point
Like one other guy said you talk about squaring and never actually showed how to actually do it. Is that the one simple trick in the heading of your video? Please show exactly how to do it instead of just mentioning it like everybody watching already know what you talking about….somebody or you said to google it than what good is the video🤔
Luke, you are awesome. My 78 chevy has been a fun project. After dropping in this sb i just finished rebuilding, the final tuning was at a halt until this video. Thanks man. Hope that good ol ford stays that way for you.
From the underside of the carb, with the throttle closed, only a square of the transfer slot is showing. From this point, you have about a half turn of the curb idle screw before it starts causing issues and drawing too much from other circuits. If you need more throttle, try advancing the initial timing instead
It will run hot and rich at idle with advance ported. Think about this. Car at idle engine is not heavily loaded and engine at cruise is not heavily loaded why and the heck wouldn't you want to lose advance at idle have to different set ups for familiar engine loads. Either scenario the engine is lightly loaded and and for the most part turning slow not using any mechanical timing. So at idle that means you will lose vacuum to the canister and you will be at you initial 8-12 btdc when before with advance you would be at 22-25 wherever you don't ping. Your car will run rich af at idle on ported vac advance that's why he is having to open the butterfly a hair to maintain idle which turns your engine into a rich burn hot as hell running in traffic and fine on the freeway. That's bad advice for street cruiser. Manifold always vac she will run ice cold your ac will work a shit ton better and run a lot cooler 7:33
Yeah. That’s why you advance initial mechanical and recurve accordingly. Then blow the doors off everyone who runs around with lazy mechanical timing which is only thing active at hard throttle. Also, only a complete ingrate would hook to ported and leave everything else the same - obviously you can’t do that.
Wow I didn't expect to see so much salt in the comment section 😅🇺🇸 I'm in the middle of your process. My carb is adjusted correctly and I'm putting in timing to the engine. I'm at 18 degrees initial now and I need another 200 rpm to make the idle smoother/better vacuum signal. How do you know if you've added enough initial timing and if you need to start modding the carb (air bleeds/holes in butterflies)? I have a large cam with loads of overlap. Carb is crispy otherwise. Thanks for the vidoes 🤙
TheSaxon25 this is where it can get tricky to tune via messages because I don’t know the build or your dynamic compression scenario - a lot of times guys overcam a bit and have low cylinder pressure at idle dictating the need for more timing. The one thing I can say is that everything is a balance, and you may be able to get more vacuum/higher idle based on how rich your mix screws are set - I’d look here next, and allow yourself a 1/2 more turn from the squared off position with a big cam. Generally the square is for 800 or less - as idle rpm increases, this needs to be opened up a bit to compensate. But if you can help it, minimize your throttle opening input 👍
@@ThunderHead289 thanks for the reply! We built the engine around the cam and heads so I know the parts are congruent or at least theoretically should be okay together. Part of the reason I am hesitant to raise the timing is because the MSD pro billet distributor I have doesn't allow for an advance stop bushing at 36° if I go over the 18° initial. 😅😅 I just ordered a wideband. I think that will let me cheat enough to figure it out 🍻🍻🍻🍻
@@TheSaxon25 How much vacuum do you have at idle? If your idle is not super choppy due to cam overlap you can use direct manifold vacuum advance which may get you the 200 rpm you need.
@@65sohc hey dude. I have 6-7". The car has a lot of chop. Isky z-35 cam. Steady fuel pressure, floats are perfect, transfer slot is slightly over square, no vacuum leaks, four corner idle set at 2.5 turns out, speed demon 750 VS (gen1), probillet msd distributor (no vacuum advance), 6al msd box. I'll find a fix that doesn't involve switching to fuel injection 😂😂😥🍻
@@TheSaxon25 Yeh. That's sounds like a pretty healthy cam with too little vacuum to run straight manifold vacuum advance even if your distributor had it. Even though you're at 18 degrees initial you can still try creeping it higher. The only limiting factor is if it becomes hard for the starter to crank the engine over.
Folks who say ported is designed for emissions are just wrong. So some engineer (unverified) made a claim about it that everyone has run with for years. I'm also an engineer, I also work with engineers - not all engineers are smart nor do they know what they are talking about.
@@ThunderHead289 I would say David Vizard knows what he’s talking about. That’s exactly what he says. I’ve argued with many on the subject, thought long and hard about it, and nobody has convinced me otherwise.
@@ThunderHead289 Ported vacuum is to keep NOx emissions under control at idle. That's it. It is more desirable to run manifold vacuum advance. One big advantage is your engine will run cooler at idle. If you have issues with idle speed and full manifold vacuum advance, you may need to find a mechanism to limit the total amount of vacuum advance.
Hello Thunderhead 289, I just purchased a 62 Chevy C-10 it has a 327 motor bored out to a 355 with a Edlebrock Carburetor. It was running a little ruff at the idle when I test drove it and thought this guy just doesn’t know how to time the truck so I bought it. I noticed the vacuum advanced hose wasn’t hooked up and thought that was weird. I set the timing on the brand New Carb and thought I was good. When I drive it the idle jumps after I set it. It does t want to stay idled at stop lights and I have to keep it going giving it gas. I set the timing and went to 6, 8 everything and the idle still jumps. Any ideas? Ray
To where on the underside of the carb, the transfer slot exposure is at a square vs more exposure would be a rectangular shape as you expose more and more of the slot
Thanks for all the helpful tips you've lent to all of us over the years. All of your advice has always been helpful.Question....Would your O2 gauge set up work with an older and richer running flat tappet motor?
I was watching a video from webber carburetors,And I thought that the guy who was explaining how to tune them said it better than anyone else had in all my 55 years! That screw on the side of a carburetor that everyone of us has turned the crap out of when we were rookies! Is not for tuning the carburetor. He said all that should ever be turned would be just enough to keep the throttle plates from connecting with the side of the throttle bore and causing a depression if the throttle was to be let go of and snapped back closed! Absolutely no tuning benefits beyond that! Once I heard it explained like that I wondered why in the hell didn't someone tell me that years ago?1🤔
My 67 Bronco, with the original 289, used to vapor lock all the time. I added the wood style spacer still did it. Added a fuel cooler. What the heck is a fuel cooler you may ask... Its an old power steering cooler from a Ford explorer. Yep... See... My fuel was hot coming out of the fuel pump. My fuel pump is heating the fuel up. Sounds nuts I know, but it was. Ill upgrade to electric when I go EFI later.
I called Holley and found out that idle air adjust was on the SECONDARIES! After setting the square on the primary transfer slots, it would not idle. There is a hidden secondary throttle plate adjustment that allows additional air for idle. Works great, NO hesitation coming off idle. (1973 Dodge 360 Holley 4160 carb)
Hello Thunderhead, My name is Mat or modiemat1978. I picked up an old 1980 Chevy Camper Special about a year and a half ago and have been chipping away at it. When the budget allows. I am having trouble getting it to run smooth consistently. Three times the it seems like my float adjustment has moved all by itself. I have watched all your videos and I think I have the order of operation for initial carb set up. But, I have some specific questions and info for you to ponder. If possible can you help me? Sorry its so late I live in on the west coast.
I could use your help identifying a particular engine in a 66 Thunderbird. I have lots of reason to believe it is not the standard motor. I'm more of a Chevy guy so any help would be appreciated.
By simply reading and trying things and using wideband o2s and vacuum gauges to monitor everything. Honestly I’m just an average dude who just has an eye for detail
Hey just out of curiosity. I have a dumb question. I've been playing around with the timing on my chevy 350 in my 82 k10. Its bored .60, has headers, mild cam (comp 280H), not a ton of lift or duration, it just idles sorta lumpy. Double hump heads with 1.92 intake valves. I've had my timing set at 8 btdc, I'm trying 12 now. Do you think ita needs more? People have told me 8 is plenty, which I highly doubt. Some people have told me 20, which seems like too much. I'm not interested in the "all in" timing right now because it's a slow 4x4. I'll mess with that later. Just wanted to pick your brain. Thank you in advance.
Luke, appreciate the clarity of your presentation. At 6:17 in the video you mention that when you set your throttle to show the "square" of the transfer slot you get a "little vacuum signal at idle." Can you tell me if the vacuum signal is measureable on a vacuum gauge. Currently I am getting about 4HG mercury in gear at 550 RPM. I have timing set at 14 Degrees (I have a comp cam 268 and the car has only 8.5 compression, and yes I know I have too much cam for the compression). The car runs great at full throttle and cruise, but does not get very good gas mileage. Not using a can, and plan to do so after resetting timing curve.
Hey now!! Watch those "old timer" comments. Lol I'm sure I'm not the only grey beard that enjoys your channel. You really do an incredible job of outlining the how and why of tuning.
I have a demon 625 and if I make the transfer slots that size it opens the two barrels more. Is it possible that the two metal flaps, I don’t know the name were installed backwards? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I just set up my 750 Holley just like you described. What a difference. I used to get a lean misfire pop though the carb when hot and other driveability issues. So smooth now off idle. Idle is smoother. I thought it was the accelerator pump setting. Glad I watched this. Thank you
Would you mind doing some motorcraft tuning videos? Mainly the 2150? Only reason I ask is because thats what I have a normally on smaller engines (V6) still have the old 2100 or 2150 carb. Ive learned a lot on my own but you are WAY MORE knowledgeable about carbs than me. Plus, inform people who dont know as much.
Hi bro got a ? I have a sbc with a 292 cam dart pro 1 iron heads I got time set on 12° and 750 summit carburetor . It starts and ideals good but will not take gas and backfire through the carb when I try to Rev it up in park .put in gear and try and get it up on the stall (3500) it black smoke like it's flooding and pops and cracks will not evon turn the tire over. I have watch your carb videos and vacuum advance video im running out of ideals. He dis with vacuum advance
As always I love all the info you and JYD have on your sites. Couple of comments. 1. since you daily this truck with a late model 302 and the O/D trans. with the factory 3.70 gears what kind of performance do you get. MPG, driveability, etc. 2. You guys need to get some of your stuff on Mr. Regulars site. Maybe get him to bring the Falcon out here to Iowa or he and the Fuel Injection sucks guys can bring the LS Winnebago home to Forrest City, and then he can review this truck. LOL!
I just had my mechanic install a brand new stock 2150 carb on my 77 Ford with a 400. It seemed to run pretty good until it started to vapour lock So I did the old heat shield around the fuel line and clothesline pins method. It hasn’t vapour locked yet but I haven’t really been driving it much either but now it seems to be blowing Black smoke??? I’ve been running shell V power in it and can’t understand why it’s blowing black? I don’t know if it’s a blown power valve or if it’s trying to vapour lock?
My truck has no power steering or brakes it drives horrible lol I guess what I am asking is do you have any ideas how to improve the steering and breaking on a none power steering or brake 1971 f100?
Luke....love your videos and have learned an enormous amount. Thank you so much. With respect to transfer slots, I need to unbolt my Holley 4160 and flip it over to inspect the size of the transfer slot. Is there anything I need to be careful of when I do that....obviously spilling fuel....but can I damage anything by flipping it over? I am going to check my slots because I appear to be showing 3 inches of vacuum from the Ported slot, and you said in another video, that might be due to the transfer slots not being set properly....as the ported vacuum reading should be zero at idle. Many thanks
"Transfer slots to a square" makes no sense I have no idea what your talking about or how to adjust them, you talk about doing it but not how really smart there guy
This is going to sound rude, but if a guy doesn’t understand how to adjust a throttle blade, which effectively alters transfer slot exposure they need to take a step back and watch some of my more basic carb videos in my “carb tuning school” playlist - I work all day and have a family now, I’ll just don’t have tons of time to be doing things in real time in front of a camera like I used to - it would eat up my whole Sunday. I’ll do it lives, and Iv done it live before - but I just can’t do every video like that these days.
I do this as a public service my friend. I can not do it at all and hoard my info tribal knowledge style like so many before me - but that’s not my nature. No one learns, and we don’t progress. Iv demonstrated this plenty of times on the channel, but never explain it. This is that follow up.
You could try searching on Google. He told you what to do, so search how: "how to set transfer slots to square". I did this and the first result explains how (forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic131647.aspx): "The adjustment is made using the Idle speed Screw on the side where the Throttle linkage hooks up. Turn the Carb over and slowly back off the Idle screw until the Transfer slot BELOW the Throttle Plate looks like a Square. You do need to be sure the Choke fast Idle screw is off and not holding the Throttle plate open." Sometimes you need to take initiative instead of complaining or attacking people because they don't spoon-feed you.
Hello Luke, I’m a big fan of your tech tips, - your way of explaining things suits my learning curve perfectly. I’m not sure if you take requests, but if you’re looking for ideas - may I suggest a run through of steering box adjustment. I’ve just stumbled through this myself, and there’s not a lot out there that I could find anyway.
I've got a 1967 Ford Econoline van. It's got a straight six 240 CID with a 1 barrel carburetor. Do you have any advice on whether I should still use the original oil bath air cleaner or change over to some kind of aftermarket air cleaner? Thanks a lot, Tom
I tune a lot of Folk's carbs at different car events, and this one methodology in initial adjustments cleans up almost everybody's issues right from the GET GO as it allows the dynamics of the carb circuits to actually work as they were designed to - no chasing tunes or bandaiding misadjustments with misadjustments elsewhere ending in disappointing performance.
If i can do this, anyone can !!!!
Also, everyone who wants to perfect the carb tune needs to run one of these wideband "Air Fuel Ratio" gauges!!!
AEM Wideband Gauge Kit - amzn.to/2wlxxL4
No Welding Exhaust Bung - amzn.to/2BCi4MO
thunderhead289
It may be a lot to ask but because you all ready have a baseline using a ported vacuum source would you be willing to switch to manifold vacuum and retune and drive it for a bit ? It would be interesting to see back to back testing in real daily driving conditions to compare mileage and performance. I know it would basically only pertain to your setup but I think it would make and interesting video if it's not to much trouble. Thanks for taking the time and doing the work on these videos they are very helpful and greatly appreciated.
I have a lag response when the butterflies close after a heavy acceleration, low speeds.... 5.0 H.O. - 600 Holley w/vac secondaries.
Any thoughts on what to check?
Thanks.
Installed an AME on both our 1986 C10 and my VW engine run test stand no issues with welding in the bung. Work in Marshalltown are your very far from there ??
ThunderHead289 I’d like to know how to adjust the dual vacuum distributor on my 65 289.. little frustrating at times trying to get it dialed in
I was doing way too much guess work with my fast idle screw, curb idle, timing, etc... Getting under the carb to see my slots made a world of difference and really improved throttle feel. Great info!
You seem very bright and knowledgeable but some people don’t understand what you mean by squaring the carburetor you should demonstrate the processes and that would be very helpful to those that really don’t understand but would like to tryout your expertise
He is taking about squaring the exposed portion of the transfer slots. Look up transfer slot on Google for maybe a better idea
I understood him to say squaring the transfer slots to where only a small looking square of the slot is exposed but my question is how do you make that adjustment? And would this be true for a ‘70 Oldsmobile Quadrajet?
@@davidmorris826 square it by turning your idol adjustment screw,yes for your quadrajet question also
@@jodypierson3137 I suspect the carb needs pulled to do this? Would adjusting until you just get a bit of vacuum on the port vacuum work?
@@raymondblair3606 you want no vacuum at idle. You need to pull the carb to square the ports. It's the only way to make for sure
Thanks Luke.... your carb tuning is always spot on... definitely a lost art. I sure enjoy seeing the '65 and the F100.
thunderhead video before work? Hell yes!
What does setting idle to square mean
Adjust the butterfly so their is only a "square" section of the transition slots exposed .
Hey brother, I appreciate all your videos. I've been a fan for years and you've taught me personally so much over time. God Bless You and Glad Bless America and God Bless My Fords.
Thanks so much man, I really appreciate it, and I’m glad they have been useful!
Right back at you my friend, God bless indeed!
Please help Junkyard Digs with his Galaxie. It's too sweet a ride to just get rid of when he has friends like you who can fix almost anything.
Sorry cant watch six commercials in the first 11 minutes. I urge you to complain to Google.
Hey Thanks for all carb tuning videos. I have a 850 holley. When I go to install it I'll most definitely go back and watch the videos. Thanks again and have a good one!
Thanks for a friendly comment!!!!
If you hook your vacuum advance to the manifold the engine will idle faster than it will on ported vacuum. To correct this, people close the throttle and this put the transfer slot into a no-flow dead zone and creates a bog off the bottom. That is why some cars run better on ported vacuum. (ANd yes this was used before emission control but it was then abused during admission control years and hence the bad reputation.)
Most people don't really know the difference between ported and non-ported vacuum. I have run carbs and EFI and tuned them both. For those who do not know there is a special vacuum port on your carburetor that you would typically hook your vacuum line to from your vacuum advance distributor, and that is the ported vacuum. The ported vacuum port has zero vacuum at idle aka no vacuum advance at idle. Now if your hook your vacuum advance distributor up to any other vacuum port on your manifold or carb it will have vacuum at idle and you will get 10-15 degrees of advance on top of what you set your initial advance too with your timing light. So 10 degrees with your timing light plus 10 degrees from the vacuum advance will give you 20 degrees of advance at idle. Now why would you want so much timing at idle? Leaner air fuel mixtures at part throttle down the highway and at idle like more timing. There is less fuel in the cylinder and takes longer for the fuel to burn which is why more advance is beneficial at idle and cruise. It will help to lower your exhaust temps, engine temps, ect at idle by using manifold vacuum on your distributor. Most people also think that high idle advance is only for radical cams which is not true. I have run 20-25 degrees of idle advance on carbs/efi with no issues on stock 70s era engines. 200HP boat anchors in other words. As time goes on there is less and less knowledgeable people about how this old stuff works. Keep the videos coming thunderhead289 otherwise working on older vehicles will become a lost art.
i use manifold vacuum if the engine needs over 12* of timing to idel. most 1970s stuff needs 16-25* of timing so manifold vacuum is the way to go. i have seen how a 70 engin with 12* wold get vary hot switch to manifold it dropped the water temp 20 degrees. used less gas to. i like a fast timing curve all in at 3500 rmp 20 centrifical with a base timing of 2-5* for a totel of 22-25* so 87 gas can be used. this gives a total timing at cruse of around 40*.
Luke, I have a question.... I understand about adjusting the throttle primary throttle plates to reveal the "square" of the transfer slots. My question is after the Holley is bolted on the manifold and is ready for idle circuit tuning chain of events so to speak.
1. Turn idle mixture needle screws clockwise until the just bottom out. Then counter clockwise 1.5 turns for each screw.
2. Cap the ported vacuum port for the distributor canister., Connect timing light
3. Start the engine and keep the engine running by opening the throttle by hand to warm up the engine.
4. To set desired idle speed of 750 RPM, rotate the distributor until tach reads 750 RPM.
5. This is where I need help...Using a vacuum gauge connected to full manifold vacuum, adjust idle mixture screws 1/4 turn each until peak manifold vacuum is achieved. NOW... the idle RPM has increased when peak manifold vacuum is achieved. Do I rotate the distributor again to decrease the RPM's back to 750 RPM's or... do I adjust the throttle position screw??? I would think the distributor should be adjusted again to 750 RPM. But I'm not sure
BTW this is a 4165 Holley Spreadbore List 6211-1 800CFM on a 427 Chevy
Michael....that is my exact question too. Luke is advocating that he wants to keep the transfer slot square for a range of good reasons, which is about 20 thou ...a square shape, and he is using rotation of the distributor to set rpm so he can maintain that square shape on transfer slot.....so I think to maintain that square shape after adjusting the idle mixture screws for max vacuum, it seems to make sense to me to rotate the distributor once again to adjust rpm back to desired level......but this is never mentioned by Luke. I think your logic is right Michael, otherwise the transfer slot shape at idle would get screwed up by adjusting the idle speed screw to reset the rpms after adjusting idle mixture screws.
One other thing. The advantage of rotating the distributor vs moving the idle speed screw is that you don’t need to readjust the accelerator pump lever arm from your initial setting. Most people forget that if you move the idle speed screw you must readjust the accelerator pump lever arm to get its gap to 15 thou.
Ooh I just thought of another thing. If you advance the base timing too much at idle (by playing with the rotation of the distributor to get desired rpms), will that result in pinging at higher revs caused from total timing (base plus mechanical and vacuum advance) being too much when the engine revs at an “all-in max timing” which may happen around 3000 rpm? I guess some experimentation is required. I just hate pinging because I want to protect the engine from any potential damage
Thanks great info, I appreciate all your videos. I am almost done rebuilding my 65 289. You have helped me degree cam ,set up Valve train now soon carb setup, much appreciated!
Im illiterate on the subject of carbs as a lot of folks are, could you do a vid showing where / what everything runs to when talking about time, vacuum fuel etc. thanks
Hunter Jackson I completely plan to, I just need to find the time to do so!
You may want to check out Uncle Tony’s garage... he did a video on the basics of how carburetors work
What does setting it to square even mean? You lost me right off
Thanks bud I’ve been chasing a carb issue on my Toyota runs good till you give it the gas pedal then she chokes
Man I wish you were closer! I’ve been banging my head against the wall with this Holley 4160 carb. Sputtering at between 1/4 throttle and 3/4 throttle. I’ve replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm, set to .015 at full throttle, set the transfer slots like this, deep cleaned checked for vacuum leaks, tuned and tuned again, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ballast resistor. Think it’s just time for a new carb
Same here but with my Edelbrock. I think I have found my issue to be a too heavy mechanical advance spring. The only way to get 32 total degrees at 2500 is to set my initial timing at 28. I only get more advance if I run it over 5000. As soon as my springs arrive I can test more
This is by far the best carb tuning video I have seen to date. No b.s. just straight facts and info. Thank you sir!! I love the truck!
What do you do when you square off the idle slot and it idles low or not idle at all?
Have a problem where we have a brand new edelbrock carb on a 390 fe and we made sure with the motor at TDC ( compression stroke of course) it was right inline with #1 plug.
Go to fire it and she won't idle at all, tried advance it as far as it go then it will kinda idle but at like 550rpm and the timing light shows about 49 degrees advance ( vacuum advance unhook).
So not sure what's going on.
Also I did notice if I put the timing back where it was ( roughly 14 degrees ) and made sure to back off the idle screw to where it was ( turned it up to get it to idle ) I could hold the secondary open a little and she would idle low but would idle without messing with timing.
Any ideas?
Any way to popstion primaru transfer slot correctly wirh out removing the carb. "Vacuum at idle"' does this imply that the ported vacuum connection will show some vacuum? Could one use the the vacuum signal at the ported vacuum connection to set the amount of transfer slot exposure? Say, adjust idle screw untill vacuum apwears at Ported connection then back it off until it just dissapears?
Sorry. But ignition timing should be the absolute FIRST thing to get set up!! If your distributor is worn bushings, bad vacuum can or to wrong port, wrong springs and also, bad or too much resistance in the wires.
THEN.. you can/should set up your vacuum gauge and testing equipment AFTER you go through the carb looking for warpage, bad gaskets, power valve(s) base gaskets etc..
Not trying to piss you off. But there are tons of symptoms that are blamed on the carb, when it's the ignition/phasing or even valve timing too. (tooth off, worn cam gear)
Holy shit, can't believe a couple of these commenters. Can't win 'em all I guess. Appreciate your insights here. Always planned on going FI because gadgets, but the more I dig into your series it makes me reconsider.
You should see some of the ignorance that I decided to remove.
Followed by the “well on such and such channel, they said this” - I don’t like to make war between channels, but the bad tech presented by large channels out there is appalling
@@ThunderHead289 I believe it. In any case I really enjoy your content. Don't let the bastards get you down!
My Roadrunner doesn't even want to idle, no matter how much timing I give it. It might have a bigger cam in it, I don't know.
I switch out the ignition module in the distributor of my 350 5.7 i got spark but it would start it back fired. Also no matter how many times i turn the needle and seat i cannot get fuel into the front sight bowl
There is nothing wrong with carburetors. The bad taste that the 70s and 80s carbs left in people's minds were due to the fact that they were set up according to EPA mandates, not by the engineers of the engine.
You literally explained everything except how to adjust the blades to a square.
mine keeps idiling rough whats the base line for Idle screw. i know the fuel mixture for holleys 1.5 turns but not sure about idle and car some times runs on after shut off.
Next ! Initial & advanced timing video ?
I can, I have a very simple concept there also - really this stuff isn’t as hard as everyone makes it out to be. All the bad info and misinformation out there has made it seem difficult.
www.hotrod.com/articles/ignition-timing-free-hp-heres-get/
Ok watching vid and you didn't mention the pcv is part of the idle circuit. That has to be free clear and sucking. The pcv circuit is mainly what keeps the engine idling
Where in Iowa?
Ported vacuum advance came in as a smog device. It makes your engine run hotter at idle. Lean mixtures need more lead to burn completely.
And this has been explained so many times that it's just useless to try.
Yes but long duration cams with valve overlap (increasingly used on the street) benefit from a rich idle mixture and high throttle setting, which has given the use a ported advance relevance beyond the emissions debate@@mrblanche
Very information dense. Love it. I now know how much I need to know. Off to do more fun research before touching the carb on my only ride. Thanks a lot!
To bad you don't live in Longview tx. I need the carb and timing set correctly on my 63 Ford Falcon.
To the Man of the 2020 World!!!! Free advice over internet, We all owe you big time my freind, Props n Respect
If only you made making carbs great again in a hat or even a shirt, I'd definitely order a couple.
I don’t understand the phrase “set it to a square”. What does the square mean? Thanks!
Never mind I was looking at the carb from the inside out,I took it apart no wonder it looked reversed. Thank you for the video.
Love the info and love how you run the FB page. It’s really nice when influencers will go out of their way to help.
“Influencer” is way too powerful of a word - I’m just a messenger!
ThunderHead289 Almost forgot to say humble. Thanks for that reminder! Lol
I just bought a edelbrock 2x4 intake and carburetors. I have a 57 chevy 283 small block. In 55 56 and 57 they run two carter afb carburetors. How do I tune thus set up to make it work on my car?
th-cam.com/video/OYylACoMd4M/w-d-xo.html
What does Squareing the carburetor mean?
Check this out , I have flipped over a 750 holley and a demon to check were the transfer slot. Comes into perfect square is right around 1 full turn from just making contact with the throttle lever , so if your not taking carb off that's a very good starting point
THANK YOU!
"MAKING CARBS GREAT AGAIN!" 👍
Have a holley coming in the mail soon will been setting it up like this 👍
Where is the ported fitting hookup on the Summit carb?
Like one other guy said you talk about squaring and never actually showed how to actually do it. Is that the one simple trick in the heading of your video? Please show exactly how to do it instead of just mentioning it like everybody watching already know what you talking about….somebody or you said to google it than what good is the video🤔
Here, I made this video since I can tell everyone is completely clueless:
th-cam.com/video/bUv5tUC6Ioo/w-d-xo.html
Luke, you are awesome. My 78 chevy has been a fun project. After dropping in this sb i just finished rebuilding, the final tuning was at a halt until this video. Thanks man. Hope that good ol ford stays that way for you.
Awesome video Luke, look forward to seeing the Galaxy ripping hard
Dude me too! Need to finish my temporary hood so it can sit outside!
Would this work on a quadrajet?
What does squared off mean?
From the underside of the carb, with the throttle closed, only a square of the transfer slot is showing. From this point, you have about a half turn of the curb idle screw before it starts causing issues and drawing too much from other circuits.
If you need more throttle, try advancing the initial timing instead
It will run hot and rich at idle with advance ported. Think about this.
Car at idle engine is not heavily loaded and engine at cruise is not heavily loaded why and the heck wouldn't you want to lose advance at idle have to different set ups for familiar engine loads. Either scenario the engine is lightly loaded and and for the most part turning slow not using any mechanical timing. So at idle that means you will lose vacuum to the canister and you will be at you initial 8-12 btdc when before with advance you would be at 22-25 wherever you don't ping. Your car will run rich af at idle on ported vac advance that's why he is having to open the butterfly a hair to maintain idle which turns your engine into a rich burn hot as hell running in traffic and fine on the freeway. That's bad advice for street cruiser. Manifold always vac she will run ice cold your ac will work a shit ton better and run a lot cooler 7:33
Yeah. That’s why you advance initial mechanical and recurve accordingly. Then blow the doors off everyone who runs around with lazy mechanical timing which is only thing active at hard throttle.
Also, only a complete ingrate would hook to ported and leave everything else the same - obviously you can’t do that.
I consider myself highly proficient in tuning carbs...just not particularly successful. Any advice?
As soon as you install a wideband o2 gauge, everything becomes very clear as far as what needs to be done
What if idle is to high with proper transfer slot set
Great explanation of the transfer slots! Thank you!
Wow I didn't expect to see so much salt in the comment section 😅🇺🇸 I'm in the middle of your process. My carb is adjusted correctly and I'm putting in timing to the engine. I'm at 18 degrees initial now and I need another 200 rpm to make the idle smoother/better vacuum signal. How do you know if you've added enough initial timing and if you need to start modding the carb (air bleeds/holes in butterflies)? I have a large cam with loads of overlap. Carb is crispy otherwise. Thanks for the vidoes 🤙
TheSaxon25 this is where it can get tricky to tune via messages because I don’t know the build or your dynamic compression scenario - a lot of times guys overcam a bit and have low cylinder pressure at idle dictating the need for more timing.
The one thing I can say is that everything is a balance, and you may be able to get more vacuum/higher idle based on how rich your mix screws are set - I’d look here next, and allow yourself a 1/2 more turn from the squared off position with a big cam.
Generally the square is for 800 or less - as idle rpm increases, this needs to be opened up a bit to compensate. But if you can help it, minimize your throttle opening input 👍
@@ThunderHead289 thanks for the reply! We built the engine around the cam and heads so I know the parts are congruent or at least theoretically should be okay together. Part of the reason I am hesitant to raise the timing is because the MSD pro billet distributor I have doesn't allow for an advance stop bushing at 36° if I go over the 18° initial. 😅😅 I just ordered a wideband. I think that will let me cheat enough to figure it out 🍻🍻🍻🍻
@@TheSaxon25 How much vacuum do you have at idle? If your idle is not super choppy due to cam overlap you can use direct manifold vacuum advance which may get you the 200 rpm you need.
@@65sohc hey dude. I have 6-7". The car has a lot of chop. Isky z-35 cam. Steady fuel pressure, floats are perfect, transfer slot is slightly over square, no vacuum leaks, four corner idle set at 2.5 turns out, speed demon 750 VS (gen1), probillet msd distributor (no vacuum advance), 6al msd box. I'll find a fix that doesn't involve switching to fuel injection 😂😂😥🍻
@@TheSaxon25 Yeh. That's sounds like a pretty healthy cam with too little vacuum to run straight manifold vacuum advance even if your distributor had it. Even though you're at 18 degrees initial you can still try creeping it higher. The only limiting factor is if it becomes hard for the starter to crank the engine over.
Rookie here. I'm lost lol.
I can see somebody that don't know what they're doing screw this up good and proper
Absolutely - it’s very technical to do
Love your videos and old rides Luke. Great tips
Great video Luke concise and to the point, easy to follow for all levels
All of this is fantastic info (except for the misinformation about ported vacuum advance). THx for sharing
Folks who say ported is designed for emissions are just wrong. So some engineer (unverified) made a claim about it that everyone has run with for years. I'm also an engineer, I also work with engineers - not all engineers are smart nor do they know what they are talking about.
@@ThunderHead289 I would say David Vizard knows what he’s talking about. That’s exactly what he says. I’ve argued with many on the subject, thought long and hard about it, and nobody has convinced me otherwise.
@@ThunderHead289 Ported vacuum is to keep NOx emissions under control at idle. That's it. It is more desirable to run manifold vacuum advance. One big advantage is your engine will run cooler at idle. If you have issues with idle speed and full manifold vacuum advance, you may need to find a mechanism to limit the total amount of vacuum advance.
Hello Thunderhead 289,
I just purchased a 62 Chevy C-10 it has a 327 motor bored out to a 355 with a Edlebrock Carburetor. It was running a little ruff at the idle when I test drove it and thought this guy just doesn’t know how to time the truck so I bought it. I noticed the vacuum advanced hose wasn’t hooked up and thought that was weird. I set the timing on the brand New Carb and thought I was good. When I drive it the idle jumps after I set it. It does t want to stay idled at stop lights and I have to keep it going giving it gas. I set the timing and went to 6, 8 everything and the idle still jumps. Any ideas?
Ray
What do you mean set the port to a square?
To where on the underside of the carb, the transfer slot exposure is at a square vs more exposure would be a rectangular shape as you expose more and more of the slot
Great job Luke that explains a lot of things I didn't know. Thanks
Another excellent video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
Thanks so much for the positive feedback
Nee subscriber here. Working on a "70 F-250 with a small block 360 and a "67 Ford Ranchero.
Thanks for all the helpful tips you've lent to all of us over the years. All of your advice has always been helpful.Question....Would your O2 gauge set up work with an older and richer running flat tappet motor?
It will definitely work!
If you thumb through my “recent uploads” playlist, I actually have all the links in the wideband o2 video!
I was watching a video from webber carburetors,And I thought that the guy who was explaining how to tune them said it better than anyone else had in all my 55 years! That screw on the side of a carburetor that everyone of us has turned the crap out of when we were rookies! Is not for tuning the carburetor. He said all that should ever be turned would be just enough to keep the throttle plates from connecting with the side of the throttle bore and causing a depression if the throttle was to be let go of and snapped back closed! Absolutely no tuning benefits beyond that! Once I heard it explained like that I wondered why in the hell didn't someone tell me that years ago?1🤔
My 67 Bronco, with the original 289, used to vapor lock all the time. I added the wood style spacer still did it. Added a fuel cooler.
What the heck is a fuel cooler you may ask... Its an old power steering cooler from a Ford explorer. Yep... See... My fuel was hot coming out of the fuel pump. My fuel pump is heating the fuel up. Sounds nuts I know, but it was.
Ill upgrade to electric when I go EFI later.
I called Holley and found out that idle air adjust was on the SECONDARIES! After setting the square on the primary transfer slots, it would not idle. There is a hidden secondary throttle plate adjustment that allows additional air for idle. Works great, NO hesitation coming off idle. (1973 Dodge 360 Holley 4160 carb)
All lot of talking and no working
Hello Thunderhead, My name is Mat or modiemat1978. I picked up an old 1980 Chevy Camper Special about a year and a half ago and have been chipping away at it. When the budget allows. I am having trouble getting it to run smooth consistently. Three times the it seems like my float adjustment has moved all by itself. I have watched all your videos and I think I have the order of operation for initial carb set up. But, I have some specific questions and info for you to ponder. If possible can you help me? Sorry its so late I live in on the west coast.
I could use your help identifying a particular engine in a 66 Thunderbird. I have lots of reason to believe it is not the standard motor. I'm more of a Chevy guy so any help would be appreciated.
IMPRESSED WHERE DID U LEARN SO MUCH AND A NATURAL AT THAT
By simply reading and trying things and using wideband o2s and vacuum gauges to monitor everything.
Honestly I’m just an average dude who just has an eye for detail
Hey just out of curiosity. I have a dumb question. I've been playing around with the timing on my chevy 350 in my 82 k10. Its bored .60, has headers, mild cam (comp 280H), not a ton of lift or duration, it just idles sorta lumpy. Double hump heads with 1.92 intake valves. I've had my timing set at 8 btdc, I'm trying 12 now. Do you think ita needs more? People have told me 8 is plenty, which I highly doubt. Some people have told me 20, which seems like too much. I'm not interested in the "all in" timing right now because it's a slow 4x4. I'll mess with that later. Just wanted to pick your brain. Thank you in advance.
What dose to a square mean ,
What about centrifugal advance? Doesn’t that advance timing with more rpm?
Luke, appreciate the clarity of your presentation. At 6:17 in the video you mention that when you set your throttle to show the "square" of the transfer slot you
get a "little vacuum signal at idle." Can you tell me if the vacuum signal is measureable on a vacuum gauge. Currently I am getting about 4HG mercury in gear
at 550 RPM. I have timing set at 14 Degrees (I have a comp cam 268 and the car has only 8.5 compression, and yes I know I have too much cam for the compression). The car runs great at full throttle and cruise, but does not get very good gas mileage. Not using a can, and plan to do so after resetting timing curve.
Hey now!! Watch those "old timer" comments. Lol
I'm sure I'm not the only grey beard that enjoys your channel. You really do an incredible job of outlining the how and why of tuning.
I have a demon 625 and if I make the transfer slots that size it opens the two barrels more. Is it possible that the two metal flaps, I don’t know the name were installed backwards? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I just set up my 750 Holley just like you described. What a difference. I used to get a lean misfire pop though the carb when hot and other driveability issues. So smooth now off idle. Idle is smoother. I thought it was the accelerator pump setting. Glad I watched this. Thank you
Would you mind doing some motorcraft tuning videos? Mainly the 2150? Only reason I ask is because thats what I have a normally on smaller engines (V6) still have the old 2100 or 2150 carb.
Ive learned a lot on my own but you are WAY MORE knowledgeable about carbs than me. Plus, inform people who dont know as much.
Hi bro got a ? I have a sbc with a 292 cam dart pro 1 iron heads I got time set on 12° and 750 summit carburetor . It starts and ideals good but will not take gas and backfire through the carb when I try to Rev it up in park .put in gear and try and get it up on the stall (3500) it black smoke like it's flooding and pops and cracks will not evon turn the tire over. I have watch your carb videos and vacuum
advance video im running out of ideals. He dis with vacuum advance
As always I love all the info you and JYD have on your sites. Couple of comments. 1. since you daily this truck with a late model 302 and the O/D trans. with the factory 3.70 gears what kind of performance do you get. MPG, driveability, etc. 2. You guys need to get some of your stuff on Mr. Regulars site. Maybe get him to bring the Falcon out here to Iowa or he and the Fuel Injection sucks guys can bring the LS Winnebago home to Forrest City, and then he can review this truck. LOL!
I just had my mechanic install a brand new stock 2150 carb on my 77 Ford with a 400. It seemed to run pretty good until it started to vapour lock So I did the old heat shield around the fuel line and clothesline pins method. It hasn’t vapour locked yet but I haven’t really been driving it much either but now it seems to be blowing Black smoke??? I’ve been running shell V power in it and can’t understand why it’s blowing black? I don’t know if it’s a blown power valve or if it’s trying to vapour lock?
You said your initial timing is 14°. Did you have to adjust the distributor weights so the timing isn’t too far advanced? What is your total timing?
My truck has no power steering or brakes it drives horrible lol I guess what I am asking is do you have any ideas how to improve the steering and breaking on a none power steering or brake 1971 f100?
Old post but new comment. How do you adjust the primaries properly? Choke open or closed? Could you make a video on that with curb idle speed screw?
Luke....love your videos and have learned an enormous amount. Thank you so much. With respect to transfer slots, I need to unbolt my Holley 4160 and flip it over to inspect the size of the transfer slot. Is there anything I need to be careful of when I do that....obviously spilling fuel....but can I damage anything by flipping it over? I am going to check my slots because I appear to be showing 3 inches of vacuum from the Ported slot, and you said in another video, that might be due to the transfer slots not being set properly....as the ported vacuum reading should be zero at idle. Many thanks
I need to get a wideband o2 guage.
I'm not understanding transfer slot to square. Can you zoom in on it. Is it the little spot by the plate?
"Transfer slots to a square" makes no sense I have no idea what your talking about or how to adjust them, you talk about doing it but not how really smart there guy
This is going to sound rude, but if a guy doesn’t understand how to adjust a throttle blade, which effectively alters transfer slot exposure they need to take a step back and watch some of my more basic carb videos in my “carb tuning school” playlist -
I work all day and have a family now, I’ll just don’t have tons of time to be doing things in real time in front of a camera like I used to - it would eat up my whole Sunday.
I’ll do it lives, and Iv done it live before - but I just can’t do every video like that these days.
I do this as a public service my friend.
I can not do it at all and hoard my info tribal knowledge style like so many before me - but that’s not my nature. No one learns, and we don’t progress.
Iv demonstrated this plenty of times on the channel, but never explain it.
This is that follow up.
Go to my channel and check out the carb school 101 playlist 👍
Don’t worry, I unsubbed to life for similar reasons.
You could try searching on Google. He told you what to do, so search how: "how to set transfer slots to square". I did this and the first result explains how (forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic131647.aspx): "The adjustment is made using the Idle speed Screw on the side where the Throttle linkage hooks up. Turn the Carb over and slowly back off the Idle screw until the Transfer slot BELOW the Throttle Plate looks like a Square. You do need to be sure the Choke fast Idle screw is off and not holding the Throttle plate open." Sometimes you need to take initiative instead of complaining or attacking people because they don't spoon-feed you.
Good info- BUT please get a foam windscreen. The wind noise is irritating to say the least.
Hey, I have an engine Chevy 350-365 HP, What size Holly do suggest, I like the Holly, Thanks
Off the subject but being from Iowa do you ever listen to William Elliot Whitmore?
I’m digging my grave oh lord I’m digging my grave!
I feel like that’s my life’s song
ThunderHead289 lol you and me both my friend!!
I don't. Just never liked his stuff. Personal preference, he has some fans.
great video,s!! how does one adjust throttle plates in the idle circuit?? thank you, PJP
so set transfer slot to a square and dont touch it unless i want to idle at 700rpm or more. In that case open up the slot a half turn. ???
Hello Luke, I’m a big fan of your tech tips, - your way of explaining things suits my learning curve perfectly. I’m not sure if you take requests, but if you’re looking for ideas - may I suggest a run through of steering box adjustment. I’ve just stumbled through this myself, and there’s not a lot out there that I could find anyway.
I've got a 1967 Ford Econoline van. It's got a straight six 240 CID with a 1 barrel carburetor. Do you have any advice on whether I should still use the original oil bath air cleaner or change over to some kind of aftermarket air cleaner?
Thanks a lot, Tom
I enjoyed the video, but there were a LOT of advertisements.
Remember the days of just one ad
Now we get em in the middle of a video without warning. Can’t wait for Xmas 🙁
This channel needs so much more traffic! Your amazing
All your videos are awesome; never too old to learn some new info; thanks !!!!!